Chiang Mai City Guide 2012
What’s hot and happening in the Northern capital.
From Khun Churn and Goodview to Vieng Joom On and Let Them Eat Cake by W Wanlamun, the arrival of Chiang Mai’s biggest names in Bangkok is giving us a taste of the North while sparing us the airfare. But we simply couldn’t resist the urge to head back to uncover the next wave of happening places to eat, drink and stay.
While Bangkok’s coffee scene is defined by ubiquitous Starbucks outlets, cutesy start-ups and fairly grungy street carts, there’s a far more sophisticated coffee culture brewing in Chiang Mai. After enough cups to get us shaking, we deliver our picks of the best cafés to get your caffeine fix.
Sat right at the opening of Nimmanhaemin Soi 3 is Doppio Ristr8to (15/3 Nimmanhaemin Rd. front of Soi 3, 053-215-278. Open daily 08:08am-11:08pm), arguably the most happening coffee shop in town thanks to owner Arnon “Tong” Thitiprasert’s appearance as a por-kha-zaap (hot vendor) on the Toey Tiew Thai TV program. They may be drawn in by the pretty face but the café’s customers return for the fine coffee blends and Tong’s dab hand at latte art. After six years in Sydney, where he won several coffee-making awards, this Trang-born barista decided to relocate to Chiang Mai to open Ristr8to in 2011. Ristretto means a short shot of espresso, but Tong ranked 6th at the last World Latte Art Championship, so you can’t really not order a hot latte. After selecting your coffee beans (we like the Ethiopian offering), grab a seat at the counter and watch as Tong skillfully pours milk over your steaming espresso shot to create beautiful patterns, talking enthusiastically all the while. We asked for a phoenix and it came out wonderfully (too bad their iced coffee isn’t nearly as nice).
Akha Ama (1/F, Mathan Apartment, 9/1 Hussadisawi Rd. Soi 3, 086-915-8600. Open Thu-Tue 8am-8pm) offers a somewhat different experience. Tucked away in the middle of nowhere, the small baan-baan café uses fresh coffee beans produced by the Akha hill tribe community in Mae Suay, Chiang Rai. The story started back in 2010, when Lee Ayu Chuepa, who was educated in Chiang Rai, decided to open up a small café to expand the market for his village’s coffee products and raise local living standards. Aside from a three-day barista course, Lee hasn’t had any formal coffee schooling—rather he learned everything he knows from his mother. “I’ve lived with coffee since I was born,” he says. And this provides the explanation for the café’s name: “Ama” means mother in the Akha language. There are no fancy decorations or showy latte art here, but every single cup of coffee is made with loving attention to flavor with beans that have been certified by the Specialty Coffee Association of Europe for three years running. That warm feeling? That’s the knowledge that the café’s profits are returned to the community.
Head back to Nimmanhaemin, the district with the highest number of cafés in Thailand, where there’s a new kid on the block. Set in a 60s-style house with its own courtyard, just like other cafés in the neighborhood, what sets Librarista (Nimmanhaemin Soi 5, 053-895-678. Open daily 10am-9pm) apart is that it’s the first here to couple a coffee shop with a proper library (not a bookstore). Guests who buy a cup of coffee are authorized to use the well-stocked library for two hours. If you find yourself out of town in Mae Rim then Sala Café (same entrance as Four Seasons Resort on Mae Rim-Samoeng Rd., Mae Rim, 053-860-996. Open daily 8am-6pm) is a cute option, set in a two-story wooden house complete with garden, surrounded by verdant hills.
While Bangkokians are all aflutter about the chic new somtam joints opening up around town, Chiang Mai residents recommend Somtam So Lao (Sirimangkalachan Rd., 089-635-5848. Open Thu-Tue 10am-8pm) for a tasty spicy papaya salad. Try the signature So Lao (B40) which mixes together everything from papaya to deep-fried pork skin and plaraa (fermented fish sauce), or the kai tod nam pla (fried chicken with sweet-and-salty sauce, B48). But we also discovered a newer even better place that many locals don’t even know about: Somtam Luang Prabang (Pa Tan Rd., 053-211-670. Open daily 10am-10pm) is tucked away down the same soi as the famous Huan Soontree restaurant, close to Zensala Resort (see below). This small place sells Lao-style somtam, which is slightly different from ours. Try the somtam Luang Prabang, which combines slices of papaya mixed with herbs and plaraa (B40), or opt for the somtam Vientiane (B40) if you feel like a more traditional variation on somtam plaraa. As the owner is the station manager of Lao Airlines, and brings in cooks from Luang Prabang, do expect authentic tastes.
One of the freshest lodges in Chiang Mai is Zensala (168 Patan Rd., 053-225-888. www.zensalaresort.com), which is hidden away to the north of the town center on the bank of the Ping River. This edgy 11-room boutique hotel was designed by IDIN Architects, famous for their boxy, minimalist structures with raw-cement surfaces. Local teak furniture adds a bit of warmth to the rooms, while the location is heartwarming in itself: not only is it riverside but the other side of the river is nothing but lush forest. If you can, book a pool-access room. Opening rates start from B2,000.
If you’re after a more classy ambiance, 137 Pillars House (2 Na Watgate Rd. Soi 1, 053-247-788) has just officially opened near to the charming Wat Gate community. The renovated old teak house which once belonged to British merchant Louis Leonowens is now home to a library and restaurant surrounded by 30 spacious suites decked out in a British-colonial theme. Opening rates are from B5,355.
A more affordable option is Nimman Mai? (Soi Sukkasem, Nimmanhaemin Rd., 053-400-567), located down a small lane close to Wawee Coffee and Ristr8to. The rooms are themed according to different continents, from traditional Thai to European. The place is not yet fully complete so rates are currently B1,400 for every room. Right opposite Tamarind Village is a new budget hotel, The Sculpture (9/1 Ratchadamnoen Rd., 053-277-020), which occupies a renovated Victorian-style townhouse. It’s currently B500 for a room decked out with an ensuite and eye-catching wall graffiti (don’t worry, it’s clean).
Further into Mae Rim, Proud Phufah (97/5 Moo 1, Maerim-Samoeng Rd., 053-879-389, 053-879-286) has just unveiled its new “Phu Zone,” which goes to show cute design need not cost a fortune. The modern-looking building houses 10 cozy rooms fitted out with ivory-colored terrazzo and basic furnishings—think Index Living Mall and IKEA. Opening rates are from B5,500. Nine of them have either a pool or Jacuzzi in-room so you can take a tub and enjoy the mountain views. And while doing so, you might just start planning your next visit to Chiang Mai.
Advertisement
Footnote
Quirky comedy about an unsolved rivalry between father and son, both eccentric professors at the Hebrew University of Jerusalem.
September 7, 7:15pm.
I-S PICK> Intimate Grammar
Fans of Amelie will love this equally dreamy film. Teenager Aharon refuses to grow up—his soul matures but his body stays unchanged—as he copes with dealing with a dysfunctional family which includes an overbearing mom and an uneducated dad.
September 6, 7:15pm. Sep 9, 7:10pm.
Jellyfish
Three stories about three Tel Aviv women whose lives intersect as they take refuge in a tranquil seaside village.
Sep 9, 5pm.
My Lovely Sister
A curious melodrama about a love triangle between the superstitious Rahma, her long-suffering husband Robert and the ghost of Rahma’s estranged sister Maria.
September 8, 9:30pm.
I-S PICK> Restoration
The best film in the festival, the story centers on a stoic antique furniture restorer whose business is about to face bankruptcy and an estranged son who is relentless on pulling the plug on the business. Featuring a marvelous central performance by Sasson Gabai.
September 8, 7:15pm.
The Secrets
Two women—the daughter of an unorthodox rabbi and her free-spirited counterpart—must make sense of their existence as they caught up in the rigid male establishment that they grew up in.
September 7, 9:30pm.
All films are screened at The Cathay. $11 from the box-office or log onto their website to book.
Advertisement
123/205 Samsen Rd., Bangkok, 02-243-4788. Open daily 9am-6pm
The fifth generation Viet-Thai owner opened this restaurant when she was a young woman and now she’s a lovely grandma. The moo yor (pork sausage) is just a little peppery while the noodles are cooked to a nice chewy texture. Another dish we love is the nam nueng (Vietnamese meatballs, B50 for a stick) which tastes amazingly fresh. The best thing here is the rich and flavorful sauce, though. End your meal with the bua loy (taro balls in coconut milk, B20) which comes with very young coconut.
68, Phra Athit Rd., Bangkok, 085-246-0111, 089-056-5777. Open Mon-Sat 11am-9pm
The special ingredients brought down from Ubon Ratchathani are the selling point of this shophouse. The noodle dishes are cooked one by one along with your choice of different toppings like eggs and mushrooms. Even though portions are small, the gooey soup is just amazing, plus the moo yor is peppery and fragrant thanks to the quality pork meat. Apart from guay jub yuan (B35), we recommend the moo yor salad (B30). Make sure to get a seat on the footpath if you don’t want to get all sweaty inside the steamy shophouse.
351/3 Thonglor Soi 17, Bangkok, 02-185-2619. Open Tue-Thu 11:30am-2:30pm; 6-10pm; Fri-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm; 6-10:30pm
Xuan Mai’s food keeps both diehard Bangkok foodies and picky Vietnamese expats coming back for more through a painstaking, inevitably endearing, attention to detail often missing in rivals. Forget rehashed versions of old favorites, we think the spring rolls (B120) and Vietnamese noodles (B150) available to try in the three styles of South, North and Central Vietnam here are pleasant, authentic and homey. We like the fresh greens and all the finer details—and there really is no detail too small for owner/chef, and ex-FBI agent, Chef Meyung.
466/8, Paholyothin Rd. (next to Government Savings Bank), Bangkok, 02-279-9398, 081-889-2451. www.nongkhaipasu.com. Open daily 9:30am-9pm
Since the owner grew up in Nong Khai, you can expect to find both Vietnamese and Isaan dishes served here. Her guay jub yuan (B60) might not be the best in town, but it tastes fresh and the soup is thick and gooey enough to hit the spot. Having started up the place some twenty years ago, she explains that her children now run the business and maintain the kitchen by themselves. And since you’re there, why not try the hard-to-find somtam Nong Khai (B50), which the owner claims is authentic, with moo yor nung (pork skin sausage, B80).
Chef at Four Garcons and Joe’s Table
“After giving it a lot of thought, I still prefer the guay jub yuan at Thien Duong, Dusit Thani Hotel (946, Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000), where I’ve enjoyed Vietnamese meals with my family for almost 20 years. I enjoy eating street food very much but when it comes to fresh vegetables or food that is not heated during preparation, if I don't wash or prepare them myself, then I only really trust a restaurant or chef team.”
Author of several guide books at Circle Publishing and food blogger at www.ohsirin.com
“Platform 1 (1153/1, Nakhon Chaisi Rd., 02-617-0181) is my favorite. I think it’s quite delicious and very clean there. The soup has a good balance of flavors and fragrant spices while the noodles, imported from Vietnam, are cooked to a perfectly chewy texture. There’s also no MSG to make your skin go numb. I think cleanliness is an important factor for running a restaurant.”
Owner of Whale’s Belly
“Guay jub yuan is the one fiery dish I really like—it’s the dish that makes you sweat like you’re doing hot yoga. My favorite place to get a decent bowl is Khun Dang Guay Jub Yuan (see left). Their moo yor is exceptional and the broth has the perfect sizzle to it thanks to the pepper and fullness of flavors. I also like the bread and the yam moo yor here—they’re lovely appetizers.”
Made from tapioca flour and rice, these noodles are thick and chewy. Usually served with a rich broth and any type of meat. Called guay jub yuan in Thai.
The dish that closely resembles our sen lek nam only the noodles are flatter and wider. Served in a clear broth often with fresh herb garnishes.
Vietnamese pork sausage known in Thai as moo yor. Normally sliced and eaten with noodles or in a spicy salad.
Advertisement
Logo tees will never go out of style—that is, if you let them do the talking. Check out three new labels and collaboration works—OuterEdit’s mash-up prints are otherworldly and inspiring, Roof Industries’ offerings sport local flair, while Subcrew’s collaboration with artist Jahan Loh pushes the envelope between street art and politics.
OuterEdit
A T-shirt design concept with a difference, OuterEdit is the brainchild of Ryan Tan and Clive Foo, avid fans of graphic design. Started last October, this online shopping site lets the public vote for what they want to wear on their chest—but with a twist. It’s also a collaborative online platform where designers build on each other’s works to create limited edition tees boasting mash-up prints. Some notable names in the list of collaborators: Mariko Jesse, printmaker and associate lecturer at London’s Central Saint Martins, and Bruno Selles, graffiti artist and graphic designer who has worked on campaigns by Nike and Diesel. “We wanted to bring the spotlight back to design creation processes and the people who make awesome graphic art where it rightfully belongs,” says Tan. The result: a series of hypnotic designs bearing various imprints with crisscrossing themes like “Muzik Mish Mash” and “Geometry, Space & Time”, all produced in limited editions of 300 at just $49 a pop.
Roof Industries
If you want to make a statement with something distinctively local, look no further than this two-month-old tee label. Familiar lingo such as “Kopi Addict” and “Singlish” stars in these designs, which include a special edition National Day-themed one with an illustration of our little red dot released last month. “Singapore has a diverse mix of races and cultures living together under one roof and we aim to build the brand with that spirit in mind,” says founder and designer David Tan. “We are working on our second collection which will feature collaborations as well as an extension of our first series with a ladies’ range. A new product line will also be introduced in the near future.” In the meantime, their quirky designs, all affordably priced below $35 per piece (includes free shipping), will have you wearing these tees out and proud.
Subcrew
Acclaimed Taiwan-based Subcrew is one of the top purveyors of Taiwan’s street culture. For their latest collaboration series, they have teamed up with local street artist Jahan Loh for a limited edition run of “Working Class Heroes” tees, featuring Loh’s signature edgy illustrations featuring skull prints and statement text such as “Our Faces Unseen”. “Much of the theme is dedicated to those who work under the radar, whose work takes precedence and speaks for them,” says Loh. “This collection is made by, and made for all the unsung heroes of modern Singapore (which I deem as postmodern capitalist Babylon), elements that you will see across the various T-shirt designs.” All tees are also produced in very small runs for $70 each.
Style Staples
Want more cool tees? These two longstanding local tee labels are still the ones to beat.
Hooked Clothings
Founder and designer Alex Koh’s works based on pop culture and contemporary design are still fresh (even after being on the scene for more than six years), featuring subtle references to themes like faith, religion and yes, rock music.
$69 upwards at their website and Zalora.
Praise
The design team has been consistently churning out photo-based printed tees with evocative images over the last three years. Highlights this season include photomontages of city skylines from across the globe.
$35 from Praise.
Advertisement
Bangin Bangsar
New neighborhoods come and go in rapidly expanding KL, but despite the rise of upscale rival Solaris Mont Kiara, we still find ourselves drawn back to grungy Bangsar. Partly it’s for the leafy streets, partly for the laid-back residential vibe and partly for the two-story shophouses that double as family homes. Add to that the sheer (and ever-changing) range of food, drink and young designer boutiques on offer, this area feels more like a hip suburb in Sydney than an enclave of KL.
EAT
Antipodean Cafe
20 Jalan Telawi 2, +603 2282-0411.
This modern Kiwi/Australian-style cafe uses the very best coffee blends produced by Indonesian-based franchise Merdeka Coffee. They back it up with a solid menu of brunch/breakfast classics in a simple café setting. The buzz does mean it can be hard to get a seat.
Chawan
69-G Jalan Telawi 3, +603 2287-5507.
Half coffee specialist, half upmarket mamak (the Malay equivalent of a street-side 24-hour diner), Chawan has a devoted crowd who come for the impressive range of coffee and affordable traditional Malay menu. For a light snack, try the Keropok Lekor, a popular doughy finger food. To wash it down, order kopi hang tuah, Penang’s regional rocket fuel.
El Meson Espanol
61-63 Jalan Telawi 3, +603 2282-8290, www.elmeson.com.my.
A bar vibe, thanks to a vibrant color scheme and quirky touches, make this place a good spot to enjoy the decent wine menu while snacking on small plates and hearty Spanish classics like rabbit stew and Iberico cheeks.
F by Buffalo Kitchens
69-1 Jalan Telawi Tiga, +603 2201-9307.
Head up the graffiti-covered wooden stairs to find this very contemporary French/Italian eatery, with an eco-touch (they use recycled furniture and flooring). They make all their own sauces and have a very impressive wine list. We love the large open kitchen and the great vantage point offered by the al fresco balcony.
Les Deux Garcons
36 Jalan Telawi, +603 2284-7833, www.lesdeuxgarcons.com.my.
If you’re into exquisite-looking patisseries then this is the place to go. Only open a couple of months, the wonderfully understated little store has a very chic atmosphere and a beautiful selection of desserts, such as its best-selling macaroons.
The Social@Bangsar
57-59 Jalan Telawi 3, +603 2282-2260, www.thesocial.com.my.
Favoured for its al fresco seating out on the terrace and laid-back ambiance, this local hot spot is at its best on lazy Sunday mornings and after work. It has a good choice of imported beers and an Asian/international mix of gastropub-style grub.
Plan B
Bangsar Village 1, G5, Ground Floor No. 1, Jalan Telawi, www.thebiggroup.co/planb.
Currently the hippest spot in the hood, Plan B is a modern coffee shop cum bar and deli. Good bistro-style food, big sofas, a nice outdoor terrace and a seasonal selection of single-origin beans make this a top spot to hang out at.
Nirawa Banana Leaf
43 Jalan Telawi 3, +603-2287-8445.
A nondescript shophouse where hungry punters enjoying the authentic Indian and Penang-style fare always overflow into the street. Don’t miss the dishes served on banana leaves (fried fish, crab, chicken and more) which are eaten with hands and come with additional refills.
SHOP
Ben’s General Food Store
Bangsar Village 1, Ground Floor, Jalan Telawi. +603 2284-8790, www.thebiggroup.co/bgfs.
While the classy all-white bistro, with its fresh pastas and salads, is well worth a visit, we really love the food and drink store next door. From Wagyu beef and imported pasta to fresh olives and St. Agur blue cheese, this place is all about the best in imported and organic food.
CZipLee Book Store
No. 1 & 3 Jalan Telawi 3, www.cziplee.com.
In Bangsar since 1968, this bookstore recently moved out of its lovely original building to a larger premise just up the street. It’s still packed with a huge range of titles, especially non-fiction stuff like travel and cooking. The selection of stationery is just as impressive.
Pantry Magic
49 Jalan Telawi Tiga, +603 2201-1578, www.pantry-magic.com/kualalumpur.
Ok, we know that there are branches around Asia but they’re not in a beautiful terraced shop house with its own quaint country kitchen vibe. Inside, you can browse a huge range of high-end kitchen ware from copper pans to retro scales. The store also run occasional cooking classes if you want to learn how to use the stuff.
Juice
46/46-1 Jalan Telawi 5, +603 2283-5811, www.clotinc.com.
The KL branch of a chain out of HK, Juice is a long-term resident in the Bangsar community where it serves up urban fashion and sportswear by the likes of Nike, Converse and CLOT in an uber-cool showroom.
Blueberry Boutique
8 Jalan Tewi 4, +603 2283-1663
This tiny little store is easy to miss, but it’s worth hunting out, for fans of distinct vintage styles with a cute girly touch and lots of bright colors. It stocks a wide range of womenswear, from retro skirts and tailored dresses to shoes and bags.
Om Art
4G Jalan Telawi, +603 2201-9588
Another new arrival, this gallery space has been open for a little over six months. It has a specific focus on Chinese art featuring both local and Taiwanese artists.
Where to stay
Founded and designed by one of KL’s most renowned landscape artist Seksan, boutique guesthouse Sekeping Tenggiri is the hippest accommodation in Bangsar. Each room is individually conceptualized out of the original 1970’s bungalow, which has vertical gardens, a swimming pool and exposed brick walls for that touch of nostalgia. There is even an art gallery located within, featuring works of contemporary Malaysian and Thai artists to add to the arty vibe. RM200 ($80) upwards.
48 Jalan Tenggiri, +603 7207-5977. Call or log on www.tenggiri.com to book.
Seoul Secrets
South Korea’s capital is a hard nut to crack, travel-wise. For visitors, it can be difficult to gain insider-level intel on the city’s ultra-hip world of trendy cafés, boutiques and artsy spaces—not to mention hard-to-find restaurants with untranslated menus. With these nifty suggestions, you can explore town just that little bit more like a local.
EAT
Bukchon Kalguksu
84 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, +82 2739-6334.
The specialty here is wang mandoo guk—literally, giant dumpling soup. At the front of the restaurant, a team of veteran chefs with hands like lightning stuff, fold and crease doughy pockets of goodness.
Bulzip Samgyeopsal
817-28 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, +82 2 3452-7273, www.bulzip.co.kr.
Enjoy some top-notch soju and BBQ pork belly at this lively watering hole.
Daedo Sikdang
150-7 Samseong 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, +82 2 5612-2834.
Fill up on authentic Korean steak, barbecued simply with garlic and cabbage on a burner right at the center of the table. The high-quality rib-eye (from cows raised in Korea, of course) is the star of the show. It isn’t cheap. But it’s delicious—even more so when the waiter makes kkakdugi (white-radish kimchi) fried rice in the same pan used to cook the beef.
Kkanbu Chicken
809-6 Yeoksam-song, Gangnam-gu, +82 2557-6460, www.kkanbu.co.kr.
Stop by for the quintessential Korean late-night meal of fried chicken, fries and beer.
Sigol Babsang
549-9 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, +82 2546-1567.
A restaurant serving traditional Korean fare just off of Garosu-gil, a trendy street that by day is great for shopping, people-watching and latte-sipping. Relax atop cushions on a raised platform against walls lined with old newspapers and feast on bulgogi, kimchi pancakes, bean-paste soup, egg soufflé (less weird and more yummy than it sounds) and an army of banchan (little side dishes).
Yubyulnan
75-1 Taeyoung Building #102, Insa-dong, Jongro-gu.
This small restaurant serves up delicious ddeokbokki, a favorite spicy street food made of sliced rice cakes, noodles and egg.
DO
Hongdae Weekend Market
564-35 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, +82 2325-8553. www.freemarket.or.kr.
Amid throngs of students and creative types, local artisans sell crafty goods from cutesy jewelry to hand-drawn postcards to sophisticated leather credit-card holders.
SHOP
APM Luxe
199-17 Sindang-dong, Jung-gu, +82 2 2231-0936.
This place sells the type of clothes and accessories stocked by boutiques across Seoul, except at bargain prices.
Kyobo
B1-B2/F, 1303-22 Seocho 4-dong, Seocho-gu, +82 2 1544-1900, www.kyobobook.co.kr.
Stock up on artsy Korean stationery at this top-notch bookstore.
O’Sulloc
170 Gwanhoon-dong, Jongro-gu, +82 2 2732-6427, www.osulloc.com.
This teahouse and store is part of a 33-year-old brand that harvests its leaves from fields on Jeju, a much-loved island off the country’s south shore.
Where to stay
Located at the secluded Mount Namsan, Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul has only 16 rooms and 16 suites so you’re sure to have plenty of privacy. Each room also has its own indoor relaxation pool. Plus, their Banyan Tree Spa boasts unique-to-this-location Korean treatments. KRW600,000 ($663) upwards.
San 5-5, Jang Chung-Dong 2-Ga Jung-Gu, +82 2 2250-8000. Book at www.banyantree.com.
Brand New Bangkok
So you’ve been to Bangkok several times. But the food scene is now going through a bit of a revival—new openings such as Smith and Quince have brought industrial décor and the rustic/nose-to-tail trend to the city’s tables, not to mention the handful of elegant Isaan restaurants that just popped up. And let’s not forget the happening neighborhoods in Bangkok tucked deep into the side streets or sois, with exciting art spaces and funky shops at Sukhumvit Road. Be surprised at what you can find here.
EAT
Quince
Sukhumvit Soi 45, +66 2662-4478, www.quincebangkok.com.
Quince’s Aussie chef Jess Barnes serves fresh, simple and well-executed dishes with Mediterranean influences and an eye to sustainability. The décor here is country-classic’industrial wood and steel with plenty of ceiling space.
Smith
1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49, +66 2261-0515/6.
Located in what used to be a former furniture warehouse, this serves a meat-heavy menu that celebrates less popular cuts and locally sourced produce. Expect dishes like tuna, braised pig tail and foie gras torchon with rosemary, citrus and peas, and verjus-glazed pork belly.
Somtam Der
5/5 Saladaeng Rd., +66 2632-4499.
A stone’s throw from the city’s main gayborhood on Silom Road, this restaurant cranks out rare variations of somtam (papaya salad), such as the somtam sua Sakon Nakhon, which comes with freshwater crab and keratin beans, and the somtam pla tu khao man, which includes mackerel and is served with a side of rice cooked in coconut milk. We’re also excited by their martinis: made by infusing vodka with lemongrass or roselle, they pack quite a punch.
Thai Lao Yeh
14/29, Sukhumvit Soi 45, +66 2 2592-8713.
Sample some authentic regional cuisine, such as classic Isaan, Northern and Laotian dishes, at Cabochon Hotel’s in-house restaurant.
The Local
32-32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, +66 2 6643-3601.
Chef and co-owner Can Markawat focuses on authentic local dishes and regional products cooked according to hard-to-find recipes. Tuck into a gaeng run juan (beef in spicy herbal soup) from the Rama Vera or try out the pla paak nam (seafood in red curry paste), a recipe taken from Siam’s first cookbook, Mae Krua Hua Pa. They’re all served in a beautiful hundred-year-old house whose individual rooms take their inspiration from various regions.
Water Library Thonglor
G/F, The Grass, Thonglor Soi 12, +66 2 7149-2923, www.mywaterlibrary.com.
For B6,600 ($264), you get to enjoy a set 12-course menu that changes with the seasons but always includes plenty of imported delicacies and modern/molecular touches. Downstairs, mixologist Mirko Gardellino’s personalized cocktails and the sexy, darkly-lit wine bar give you the perfect excuse need to stick around after dinner.
SHOP
Asiatique
2194 Charoenkrung Rd., +66 2108-4488, www.thaiasiatique.com.
It’s touristy (although packed with locals), it’s brand new (but strangely nostalgic) and despite its riverside location, it pretty much replaces the much missed Suan Lum Night Bazaar that used to be by Lumpini. With a panoramic waterfront and a 100-year old refurbished sawmill, it includes over 1,500 boutiques stocked with souvenirs, fashion, bars and restaurants. The gigantic venue is also home to the Joe Louis Puppet Theater and the transgender extravaganza Calypso Bangkok.
Casa Pagoda
4 Sukhumvit Soi 45, +66 2258-1917, www.casapagoda.com.
For retro furnishings, look no further than elegant home décor boutique Casa Pagoda. The 6000 sq. meter space packs country-style furniture and vintage products ranging from glass soda water dispensers to hemp rugs.
Talad Rot Fai
Kampaengpetch Rd., +66 8 1920-3972.
For something a little bit grittier, Talad Rot Fai (the train market) packs cheap vintage finds ranging from USA license plates to old Thai ads. It’s also just a cool place to hang out and grab a beer, thanks to the collection of hip kids who gather here to pick up old radios, parts for their ’70s automobiles or retro furniture from the converted old warehouse.
ZudRangMa Records
7/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, +66 08 8891-1314, www.zudrangmarecords.com.
This vinyl record store delivers a heady mix of Isaan country music, such as Luk Thung and Molam. Here, you can also find world music ranging from Jamaican and African to soul and reggae.
DO
Rock Around Asia
5/3 Sukhumvit Soi 45, +66 2662-7604, www.rockaroundasia.com.
At this art gallery, you can shop for travel photography, local pop art and sculptures. There’s also an open-air rooftop cinema promoting classics, indie productions and documentaries. They even organize cooking classes and “off the beaten track” walks around Bangkok.
Opposite
27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, +66 2662-6330, oppositebangkok.com.
Drop by this renovated mid-20th century-style shophouse, which plays host to stimulating art, music and dining events.
WTF Gallery & Café
7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, +66 2662-6246, wtfbangkok.com.
Arty souls looking for a low-key, retro hangout would like this hybrid bar, where gigs, art exhibitions and poetry nights take place and stiff cocktails are served.
Where to stay
Located by Chao Phraya river, The Siam is a 39-room luxury Bangkok riverside resort where traditional Siamese architecture meets Art Deco style. The hotel is packed to the rafters with an impressive collection of antiques belonging to local celebrity Krissada Sukosol Clapp, while the elegant teak pavilions used for in-house restaurant Chon were originally sourced by Thai silk king Jim Thompson. B16,300 ($654) upwards.
Advertisement
The Ryan Higa Asian Tour meet and greet session in Singapore (the YouTube star's first official visit here) will feature a buffet dinner and an intimate Q&A session hosted by Sixx's Aarika Lee.
This year's Singapore Toy, Games, Comic Convention (STGCC), will see guests like Kaiju toy creator Mark Nagata (pictured in slideshow) and street artist Tristan Eaton gracing a program filled with cosplay, meet and greet sessions with famous illustrators, and even music performances.
Whether you love or hate the Harry Potter series, the spoof production Potted Potter helps make sense of it all.
One of the best things about Singapore is its abundance of cultural festivals and a big happening is just around the corner—the Chinatown Mid-Autumn Festival. See lanterns in all shapes and sizes hanging from the tent rafters as you browse kitschy knick knacks and sample new mooncake flavors at the fair.
Home spa concierge Sole Service officially launches at the Tanjong Beach Club with The Beach Rubdown, where you can sip cocktails in between free foot, back, neck and full-body massages.
The final Smack My Beach Up party in Evian’s Live Young series will feature a Daytona Simulator right on the beach. Time to get your drink on.
Join in the merriment as Velvet Underground's lounge and dance rooms transform into whimsically verdant playgrounds for the Midnight Garden: Velvet Underground's 18th Anniversary party.
The key event in September is the F1 Singapore Grand Prix 2012, but that can get a little tricky to navigate around. Here's a quick guide on what's happening during the three-day high-octane season.
If you're a fan of American indie pop songstress Ingrid Michaelson, definitely be there for her concert—we look forward to hearing the melodious "The Way I Am" (see music video below) from her debut album Girls and Boys, live!
Robyn fans—go on an electropop power trip as the pixie cut blonde performs songs like "Dancing on My Own" (see music video below) live, for the first time in Singapore.
Advertisement
Aubergine
BBB. French. Lunch served Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm, Sat–Sun 12-3pm
Set in a grand old villa, Aubergine is all about atmosphere. The building itself, with its hardwood floors, doors and bar, high ceilings and backyard patio, is impressive. While the food features plenty of nods to France, Italy and the Mediterranean.
Prices: B390 for 3-course, B490 for 4-course.
What to expect: Caesar salad, pan-fried duck breast with orange sauce and crème caramel.
71/1 Saladaeng Soi 1/1, Silom Rd., 02-234-2226. www.aubergine.in.th. BTS Saladaeng
BBBB. French. Lunch served Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm
One of the best French restaurants in Bangkok, this French-imported eatery by the Michelin starred Pourcel brothers has all the finesse one might expect. Plus, it comes with a breathtaking panoramic view of Bangkok.
Prices: B950 for 3-course.
What to expect: Roasted seared tuna fillet, gratinated oyster with countryside ham.
The Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000. MRT Silom
BBB. Japanese. Lunch served Mon-Fri 11:30am-2pm
Waitresses in kimonos, beautiful crockery, a glass wine cabinet stocked with Bordeaux Grand Cru and a windowless dining room flanked by two massive tepanyaki grills create a hushed atmosphere. The food here is superb, too.
Prices: B350-B480 net.
What to expect: Sets like the hamburger patty doused in a wonderful demi-glace and served with petite veggies, a tart mini-salad, a proper miso soup, dumplings in red bean sauce and a coffee.
9/26 Soi Jim Thompson, Suriyawongse Rd., 02-235-8382
BBB. Indian. Lunch served daily 11:30am-2:30pm
An open, high-ceilinged space with a view of a lush outdoor garden terrace, the décor is a modern interpretation of Indus valley civilization meets trendy Morocco. Indus serves up northern Indian favorites but with a fresh twist that manages to lighten up typically heavy Indian cuisine.
Prices: B345 for 3-course.
What to expect: Papri chaat, mutton rahra, chicken tikka masala and naan.
71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-4900. www.indusbangkok.com.
BBB. Italian. Lunch served Mon-Fri 11:30am-2pm
It’s probably no longer Bangkok’s best Italian restaurant, but Zanotti’s dining room certainly retains plenty of buzz. Authentic Piedmontese cuisine is whipped up from top-quality ingredients, making it a favorite haunt among power brokers and visitors from Hong Kong and Singapore.
Prices: B300 for 2-course, B330 for 3-course.
What to expect: Sweet potato soup, regular pasta or lasagna.
1/F, Saladaeng Colonnade Condominium, Soi Saladaeng, Silom Rd., 02-636-0002. www.zanotti-ristorante.com. BTS Saladaeng
BBB. French. Lunch served Mon-Fri noon-2:30pm
For years, The Oriental has set the standard for service and cuisine and the breath-taking river views aren’t bad. If you’ve ever wondered what bourgeois French families have for their dejeuner, order yourself their set lunch, which is very affordable compared to their dinner.
Prices: B1,150 for 3-course.
What to expect: Roasted frog’s legs, quail egg and stewed octopus or braised beef cheek with couscous and Burgundy wine sauce.
The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Avenue, Charoen Krung Rd., 02-659-9000.
BBBB. Thai. Lunch served Mon-Fri noon-2pm
Nahm is Thailand’s only entry in Restaurant Magazine’s World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Led by Chef David Thompson, the set lunch isn’t cheap, but it’s the only way to sample his stellar kanom jeen.
Prices: B800-B1,100 sets.
What to expect: Kanom jeen with green curry and fish dumplings, minced quail curry or deep fried grouper with fish sauce.
The Metropolitan Hotel, 27 South Sathorn Rd. 02-625-3388
BBBB. International. Lunch served Mon-Fri 12pm-3pm
The fab new Sofitel So is getting in on the lunch act with its restaurant Red Oven, which runs with the concept of a world food market, meaning you get to taste all kinds of cuisine from Japanese and Thai to Italian and French. How hot is it? Some say it’s outshining the nearby Sukhothai’s similarly decadent international lunch buffet.
Prices: B900 for lunch buffet.
What to expect: Mac n’ cheese truffle and lobster daikon ravioli served with urchin foam and pressed caviar.
7/F, Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd., 02-624-0000. MRT Lumphini
BBB. Japanese. Lunch served Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm
This global chain of high-end Japanese restaurants created huge excitement. Zuma’s generous proportions and stunning decor are genuinely impressive, while they serve traditional Japanese with modern flair.
Prices: Set lunch ranges from B350-B490.
What to expect: Grilled salmon with teriyaki sauce with rice and salad.
G/F, St. Regis Hotel, 159 Rachadamri Rd., 02-252-4707. www.zumarestaurant.co.th.
Uomasa
BB. Japanese. Lunch served Mon-Fri 11:30am-2pm
This sushi joint, named after the famed Tokyo fish market, doesn’t look that special but does some of the best sushi in town. The fish used in the super cheap lunch sets aren’t nearly as exciting as the a la carte options, but they’re amazing value for money nonetheless.
Prices: B198 for 10 pieces sushi set.
What to expect: The sushi sets come with a little appetizer, a miso soup and dessert.
62/19-20 Soi Thaniya, Silom Rd., 02-233-9698. BTS Saladaeng
BB. Japanese. Lunch served daily 11:30am-1:45pm
There are loads of Japanese eateries in this neighborhood, but not that many doing yakiniku, where you grill your own meat over a charcoal barbeque. Although Rengaya also does decent bento sets, what’s got people queuing up is definitely the grilling—and this despite the agonizingly slow service and drab, decade-old décor with posters of Asahi pretties.
Prices: Prices range from B160-B280. Each set includes rice, kimchi, fruit and tea or coffee.
What to expect: Bento boxes ranging from katsu cutlets to saba, or yakiniku sets with combinations of chicken, pork and beef.
2/F, Thaniya Bld., Rama 4 Rd., 02-231-2140. BTS Saladaeng
B. Japanese. Lunch served Mon-Fri noon-2pm
Named after manga hero Ninja Hattori, new eatery Hattori Shokudo sports a bare-bones interior that’s all about plain white bricks, vintage Japanese posters and beer crates with
cushions for seats.
Prices: Set lunch starts from B98 with rice, soup and salad.
What to expect: Japanese fare like Oyako donburi (chicken and egg over rice) and hattoridon (Japanese grilled chicken rice with teriyaki sauce).
Thonglor Art Village, 352/2 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 088-088-7800
BB. Japanese. Open daily 11am-11pm
As one of the first international franchises of famous Japanese chain, Bankara promises to bring a taste of real ramen to the Bangkok palate with four types of ramen which you can personalize with different toppings.
Prices: Ramen starts from B190.
What to expect: Kokushio ramen (ramen with pork), kakuni tsukemen (ramen with chicken and fish broth).
The Manor, 32 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-622-5162/3
BB. Japanese. Lunch served 11:30am-2:30pm Sat-Sun 11:30am-4pm
Located on the G/F of another luxurious condo in Japanese spot, this branch of Uomasa promises quality traditional Japanese dishes.
Prices: Set lunches from B180-B380.
What to expect: Karei mentai set (mentai fish egg with rice), rice topped with salmon sashimi or tempura set.
G/F, 39 Boulevard Bld., Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-160-0112
FIREHOUSE
BBB. American. Lunch served Mon-Fri 11am-3pm
US restaurant chain 25 Degrees, a self-described “bordello meets burger bar,” claims everything on the menu is made from scratch, including the homemade buns.
Prices: B400 set.
What to expect: The Number One (beef burger with caramelized onion, gorgonzola and crescenza cheese, bacon, arugula and thousand island sauce) with side dish and draft beer or soft drink.
Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 188 Silom Rd., 02-238-1991
BB. American. Open daily 11:30-3am
The Firehouse was perhaps the first of a slew of new places to have opened over the last year looking to use finer ingredients to elevate the burger beyond a simple fast food snack. It certainly leads by example, serving up pretty memorable burgers in a narrow, contemporary space, made all the more pleasant through the clever use of mirrors and glass.
Prices: Burgers start from B190.
What to expect: Australian Black Angus burger, Champion Chili Burger or fish and chips
3/26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3643. www.firehousethailand.com
BBBB. Steakhouse. Lunch served Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm
This contemporary, high-end steakhouse serves imported beef from Australia and Japan and comes with exceptional service.
Prices: B755 for 2-course, B795 for 3-course.
What to expect: Braised short ribs with caramelized onions and roasted mushrooms or seared tiger prawns with broccoli, sundried tomatoes and lemon cream sauce.
Four Seasons Hotel, 155 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-250-1000. BTS Ratchadamri
Roadhouse
BBB. American. Lunch served daily 11.00am-3pm
Located on the corner of Suriyawongse and Rama 4, Roadhouse Barbeque takes pride in its BBQ ribs, which are hickory smoked for over six hours.
Prices: B275 for 2-course, B345 3-course.
What to expect: BLT sandwich with French fries or their amazing BBQ ribs with corn and a great key lime pie.
942/124, Rama 4 Rd., 02-236-8010
Patisserie Masatomi
Open Sun-Thu 10am-11pm; Fri-Sat 10am-midnight
Run by the same people as W by Wanlamun, Chiang Mai’s coolest dessert eatery, Let Them Eat Cake serves up homemade pastries and sweets that wouldn’t be too out of place in a French patisserie.
What to expect: St. Honore Rose-Framboise (B175), dôme au chocolat (B130), éclair à la vanille (B160) and flavorful chocolat chaud (Valrhona hot chocolate, B180).
G/F, Mille-Malle, Sukhumvit 20, Bangkok, 02-663-4667
Open Mon-Sat 9am-11pm; Sun 8am-11pm
Bangkok’s favorite crepes place has been doing this dessert crepe for years now, but we’ve yet to get tired of it, even though they have moved to the new location in an old house in Langsuan.
What to expect: : Besides from their lovely savory crepes, try Banana Bailey’s Crepe (crepe stuffed with vanilla ice cream, bananas and Bailey’s Irish Cream, B280) and Jospehine (crepe stuffed with banana, vanilla and chocolate sauce, B240).
59/4 Langsuan Soi 1, Ploenchit Rd., 02-6533990
Open daily 10am-7pm
Masatomi blends very classical French training with Japanese influences. For example, their Mont Blanc is made with sweet potato instead of chestnut puree. But what’s most exciting at Masatomi is the carefully crafted macarons infused with different flavors from real flowers like lavender.
What to expect: Lavender white chocolate (B45), citrus cream cheese macaron (B35).
3/F, The Portico, 31 Soi Lang Suan, Rd., 02-652-1977
CAFE CLAIRE
BB. Fusion. Open daily 11am-10pm
The small yet stylish café specializes in homemade cakes and desserts. But the owners keep introducing savory dishes with a focus on simple fusion.
What to expect: Spaghetti with bacon, garlic and chili (B180) and choc lava (B110).
Ari Soi 4, Bangkok, Thailand. 081-495-1555, 089-047-7506
BBB. European. Lunch served 11:30am-2:30pm
Set in the luxurious Oriental Residence on Wittayu, right next to the US Embassy’s leafy compound, Café Claire is an elevated diner that works for any time of the day. (Our full review page 22)
Prices: B650 for 3-course. (Mon-Fri only)
What to expect: Miso-glazed snow fish or braised wagyu beef cheek.
Oriental Residence Bangkok, Wireless Rd., 02-125-9000
BB. French. Open daily 8am-8pm
While some may picture French food as incredibly complicated, this smaller café does amazing sandwiches, soups, quiches and salads. Tips, don’t skip the delicious dessert.
Prices: Sandwiches start from B180 and salad’s from B200.
What to expect: Croque madame, sandwich reuben and cold cut.
Athenee Residence, 65/2 Wireless Rd., 02-168-5464. www.cafetartine.net
BBB. International. Open Tue-Sun 8:30am-3:30pm
This adorable garden café with loads of hanging greenery has become very popular among Thais and expats alike. The rustic, comforting menu and the attention to detail paid in the mismatched iron and wood furniture and the reused Bonne Maman jam jars all make Gastro 1/6 adorable—too bad for the terrible service.
What to expect: All-day breakfast like full English breakfast (B380), Spanish tortilla with Iberico ham (B180), poached eggs with asparagus and truffle oil (B320) or fettuccine with tomato sauce, mussels and chorizo (B380).
Soi Sai Namthip 2, 238 Sukhumvit Soi 22, 080-603-6421
BB. International. Open daily 10am-10:30pm
As with an old friend, you always know what to expect at Kuppa. Whether this is a strength or a weakness depends on what you’re looking for in a restaurant. If it’s consistency, Kuppa is ideal.
What to expect: Salads, soups, pizzas, pastas and tarted-up Thai favorites like somtam.
39 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-663-0495, 02-663-8806 or Asoke Towers, Sukhumvit Soi 21, 02-664-2354
B-BB. Italian. Open daily 11:30am-10pm
Pala is buzzing with Italian gentlemen tucking into pasta, and everyone else enjoying the thick, bread-like pizza and some house wine. It’s all very authentic, and the glass showcase packed with antipasti, cold cuts and obscure dolce is stunning. All the more amazing considering it’s sat beneath BTS Asoke, and has only precarious stools for seating.
Prices: B190-B290 for pasta and B40-B95 for a slice of pizza.
What to expect: Linguine with pesto, classic margarita pizza or some five cheese pizza.
1 MRTA, Asoke Rd., 02-259-1228-9. MRT Asoke
BB. International. Lunch served Mon-Fri 11am-2pm
Welcome to hipsterville, where media execs and fashion designers nosh on solid classic bistro food. The décor is cool, with hints of New York and Paris and the dishes go for safety and comfort.
Prices: B260 for 2-course, B360 for 3-course. B40 extra for dessert of the day.
What to expect: Trio crispy potato pancake, angel hair with corned beef and rigatoni Italian sausage.
37/7 Citadines Bangkok, Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-261-5533.
BBB. Spainish. Lunch served noon-2pm.
Like the name suggests, this cozy, stylish eatery pairs up an extensive wine list with an equally comprehensive range of traditional tapas dishes and their Asian spin-offs.
Prices: B400 for three selections of tapas plus dessert and coffee.
What to expect: Green salad with Serrano ham and scallops with walnut crust and beetroot caramel.
2/F, Grand Millennium, 30 Asoke Soi 20, 02-204-4158. MRT Asoke.
BB. Spanish. Open Mon-Fri 11-1am; Sat-Sun 11-2am
Good tapas should be simple, affordable and comforting, and Spanish on 4 certainly ticks all those boxes. Add in decent, efficient service and very affordable lunch, it’s really worth the trek.
Prices: B220 for three tapas.
What to expect: Barcelona includes serrano ham, tortilla and pan con tomate.
78-80 Silom Soi 4, 02-632-9955. www.spanishon4.com. BTS Saladaeng or try Tapas, 1/25 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-2947
Chesa
BB. German. Lunch served daily 11:30am-4pm
What could be a German tavern stands behind a small courtyard on Soi 20, where they offer a remarkable selection of sausages, sauerkraut and other homemade delicacies with little grace but with great efficiency and authenticity.
Prices: B295 for 3-course.
What to expect: Hungarian fish soup, pork goulash, grilled salmon or trout with vegetables and baked potato.
1 Sukhumvit Soi 20, 02-262-0892, 02-260-0869
BBB. Swiss. Lunch served Mon-Fri (except holidays) 11am-2:30pm
This humble restaurant serves consistently good food, its menu is filled with traditional dishes that delight with their attention to detail. The well-trained and amiable staff add to the comfortable vibe.
Prices: B380 for 2-course, B410 for 3-course.
What to expect: Beef goulash, trout fillet with dill cream sauce, spinach cannelloni and veal sausage.
5 Sukhumvit Soi 20, 02-261-6650. www.chesa-swiss.com
Glow
BBB. International. Lunch served Mon-Sat 11am-2:30pm
Nahm might get all the plaudits, but Glow is a rare find in Bangkok, too, due to its focus on healthy, organic and macrobiotic foods. (Their newly-launched Sunday brunch is also worth a try.)
Prices: B590 for 3-course.
What to expect: Prawn and pomelo salad, seven-grain burger, fruit salad with sugarcane and lime ice.
The Metropolitan Hotel, 27 South Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3366
B-BB. Vietnamese. Open daily 10:30am-10pm
Dalad is modest and soulful, reminiscent of the old spirit of the neighborhood. The homey Vietnamese food here is that hard-to-find blend of comforting, dependable and hygienic at dirt-cheap prices. And a lot of the menu, can be ordered vegetarian.
What to expect: The vegetarian version of the round noodles (B80) in thick soup feels hearty with all the meaty, chopped mushrooms and savory peppered broth.
36/7 Phahon Yothin Soi 7 (Ari), 02-271-2109
B - Under B150
BB- B150-B300
BBB- B300-B500
BBBB - B500 and up
Advertisement
From Sep through Oct 31, The Living Room welcomes back the Michael Veerapen Trio featuring pianist Michael Veerapen joined by drummer Shawn Kelly and bassist Therdsak Wongvichien. Performances start at 6:15pm on Tue, 9:15pm on Wed-Sat and run in conjunction with the Sunday brunch from noon-2:45pm. For reservations, call 02-649-8353.
Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-649-8353. www.sheratongrandesukhumvit.com
This intimate venue located on the lobby floor of the Oriental Hotel is decked out with a slightly jungle-like vibe and plays host to live jazz on Mon-Sat, from 9pm onwards. Currently, it sees a residency from a powerful Jazz singer going by the name of Freedom Forever, through Oct 31. For reservations, call 02-659-9000 ext. 7690/1.
Oriental Hotel, 48 Oriental Avenue, 02-659-9000. www.mandarinoriental.com/bangkok
September sees the lobby bar of the Sofitel Bangkok inject a little musical variety into proceedings, starting with fusion jazz infused with funk from Neung Jakkawal on Wed then sexy salsa tunes from the Siam Cubano band on Thu. One of Bangkok’s most renowned blues guitarists, Chai Blues, will take to the stage in full band mode on Fri-Sat. All performances take place 9pm-midnight. For reservations, call 02-126-9999 ext. 3300.
Lobby Floor, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Soi (between 13-15), 02-126-9999. www.sofitel.com
VIE Bar is focused on shining a light on the finest jazz musicians from Thailand and abroad, previously hosting the likes of Koh Mr. Saxman, KUJ Band and The Soul Must Go On. That list continues to grow with the Yokohama YAA band set to take to the stage on Sep 1 and Sep 7, from 8:30pm.
117 Soi 39 (Phaya Thai), 02-309-3939. www.viehotelbangkok.com
Advertisement
Flow House Bangkok
What: Board riding
Where: 120/1 A-Space Sukhumvit Soi 26., 02-108-5210. www.flowhousebangkok.com
How much: Flow House Bangkok promises a gnarly surfing experience with a perfect (artificial) wave every day right here in the center of the city for B750 per hour. If you’re new to wave riding, there are also surfing lessons, starting from B1,000 for the first hour and B500 thereafter. Flow House Bangkok also features a plunge pool, a bar and a restaurant with occasional live music events. Open weekdays at 10am-midnight and weekends 8am-midnight.
Planet Scuba
What: Scuba diving
Where: 66 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-261-4412-3. BTS Phrom Pong. www.planetscuba.net
How much: Get your PADI dive certification by training at their pool before heading out to Pattaya for the open-water classes. B14,200 for Thai and B15,800 for foreigners, covers six hours of lessons on scuba diving fundamentals, two days of five one-hour pool dives and two days of four one-hour open water dives to depths of 18 meters. Course prices include transit to and from your hotel in Pattaya and dive boat, lunch and light refreshments, equipment rental and boat fee. Pattaya accommodation and transportation is not included.
Taco Lake
What: Wakeboard, wake skate, knee board and water ski
Where: 175/1 Km.13, Bangna Trad Rd., 02-316-7809. www.tacolake.com
How much: Thailand’s first cable park for watersports is located near Suvarnabhumi Airport. Wakeboarding starts at B300 for two hours, B500 all day, and a one-year pass is B7,500 for up to 50 visits. They serve Thai food including pad kaprao, fried chicken, and somtam. Open weekdays at noon-6pm and weekends 10am-6pm.
Nongbon Water Sports
What: Sailing, windsurfing, kayaking, rowing boat, and five-paddler boat
Where: Near King Rama 9 Royal Park, Chalermprakiat 43, Chalermprakiat Rd., 02-328-0236. www.facebook.com/nongbonwatersports
How much: First you have to become a member; ages 5-18, B10 per year, ages 19 and above, B40 per year. This place offers various free watersports classes including equipment. Nongbon also features a park for recreation and watersports equipment museum. Open daily 8am-6:30pm.
Siam Park City
What: Wave pool, speed slides, beach, and wave pool
Where: 203 Suan Siam Rd., Kannayao, 02-919-7200. www.siamparkcity.com
How much: At Siam Park City you can sunbathe on the sand at its man-made beach and surf in its artificial wave pool. The water park also features a whirlpool, waterslides and fun rides like roller coasters and a log flume. This summer, they’re offering a 1-day pass for B500, down from B900, and an all-day kids pass for children between 100-130cm tall at B120. Open daily 10am-6pm.
Black Mountain Wake Park
What: Wakeboarding
Where: Soi Huahin-Huay Monkol 11, Huahin, 080-024-2836. www.bmwakepark.com
How much: The newly opened wakeboard park Black Mountain, in Hua Hin, is an 800-meter-long reservoir with two jumps and two sliders for you to practice and show off your skills. You can do two hours’ wakeboarding at B600, B900 for 4 hours, B1,200 for full day, and membership is B20,000 per year. They also offer riding promotions with ladies and students half-price on Monday and Tuesday, respectively, till May 31. Open daily 10am-5pm.
Santorini Water Fantasy Park
What: Slides, rides and wave riding
Where: 555 Moo 3 Khaoyai, Cha Am, 081-809-6853, 032-890-400. www.santoriniwaterfantasy.com
How much: This new water park in Cha Am is sure to get the adrenaline racing. Try floating on the rolling rubber tube at Ring of the Titan, riding the huge waves at Poseidon’s Lagoon or taking the 18-metre waterslide at Vulcan’s Kamikaze. Admission is B900 for adults, B500 for children and seniors. Open daily 10am-8pm.
Advertisement
How would you describe your cooking style?
My cooking style is built upon the balance of several elements—spice, fat/richness, acidity, sweetness—and how they combine to form a harmoniously balanced dish.
What’s your plan for the WGF?
Dishes that are my classics or are new interpretations of dishes based on the elements of taste I use in my dishes.
What’s the hardest thing about being a visiting chef?
The change in products, versus what you are used to working with. An orange in San Francisco is not an orange in Thailand. Tasting and adjusting recipes to recreate what we do in the States is paramount to people understanding our cuisine.
Will you be using our local ingredients?
Yes, whenever possible, [while trying] to come as close to our originals as possible in the cases where we are doing classic dishes. New interpretations will be almost entirely local and will be created after looking through the local markets.
What is the current hot food trend in your country?
Food in Singapore has become of such an exemplary standard that many of the world's greatest chefs come here, not only to explore their talent, but to test their mettle in a highly competitive gastronome's paradise. In my opinion, chefs are going back to basics—visually simplifying their plates with a more minimalist approach to food presentation.
What’s your plan for the WGF?
The freshness and availability of products is key to my creations. I hope that I can use the WGF platform to showcase Les Amis’ food and share our passion.
What’s the hardest thing to prepare when you’re a visiting chef?
The greatest challenge is to put together a team of chefs from different kitchens to deliver our creations within a short time span.
Are we getting the same food you serve in your place?
100% yes—as long as we get the same ingredients with the same quality.
What are the big food trends in 2012?
I would say genuine cuisine, not simply French cuisine, but one made using good produce, generously, and sincerely. It’s about having something to say through your cuisine. However, the one style of cuisine I would rather not hear about is the idea that cooking with talent simply means mixing together just about anything, and adding a lot of color. Good cuisine is often just a beautiful love story between man and nature.
What inspired your cooking style?
I was brought up in a culinary environment inspired by a love for the best products. I worked with Alain Dutournier, then joined Alain Chapel’s establishment in 1988 and finally started working with Alain Ducasse in 1994. I was very lucky to meet them. My inspiration has always come from our cultural heritage and I have to admit I’ve never felt like cooking any other way. I just love this cuisine that is all about taste and sharing.
What’s your plan for the WGF?
We’re going to offer what we do best, French neo-classical cuisine, like the one served at Le 39V. It’s simply sincere gourmet cuisine that respects the seasonality of produce. We will use local products that are as close as possible in quality to the ones served at Le 39V.
What’s the hardest thing to prepare when you’re a visiting chef?
The hardest is trying to find locally the exact ingredients I need for my recipes. In cases where it’s typical French produce, then the major difficulty is ensuring that the shipping conditions are exactly right so the produce retains all its taste and quality. I have to admit that after being Alain Ducasses’s corporate chef for 14 years, I’ve become quite an expert in this field.
Four Seasons Hotel, 155 Rachadamri Rd., 02-126-8866. www.worldgourmetfestivalbangkok.com.
Sep 3-4:
• Masa Shimakawa of Onyx, LA, USA at Shintaro.
• Victor Quintilla of Lluerna, Barcelona, Spain at Madison.
• Igor Macchia of La Credenza, Piedmont, Italy at Biscotti.
Sep 5-6:
• Diego Irrera of 1884 Restaurante, Mendoza, Argentina at Spice Market.
• Galvin Lim of Les Amis, Singapore at Madison.
• Shiqin Chen of La Rei, Il Boscareto, Piedmont, Italy at Biscotti.
Sep 7-8:
• Robert Schinkel of Dilmah at lobby lounge for afternoon tea (B1,500).
• Jean-Francois Antony with cheese tasting at Spice Market (B3,500).
• Michael Mina of Michael Mina, San Francisco, USA.
• Frederic Vardon of LE 39V, Paris, France at Biscotti.
All events start at 7pm, B5,900.
Advertisement