Bangkok's Creative Uses for Vacant Lots
How Bangkok’s abandoned spaces get turned into football pitches, art galleries or pop-up vegetable gardens, and the people behind the city’s grassroots urban renewal.
About two years ago, a great empty space opened up next to Ratchathewi BTS station right near the center of town after the removal of a number of old shophouses. With the help of locals like Butdee Jongmoom, 35, a motorcycle taxi driver, the plot now more closely resembles a nature reserve, albeit one that’s overgrown with lush trees and people’s mini farming projects. Butdee tells us about the transformation and how he uses the space to grow vegetables.
How long have you worked around here?
About two years. I don’t know exactly what used to be in this space before because by the time I came all the buildings had already been removed.
How did the gardening begin?
It all started a few months ago when a group of university students came to plant some flowers and vegetables for their course. The crew of a TV show called Joh Jai also came here to plant some trees. But after they left, I realized there was nobody taking care of those trees. They were dying so I decided to transfer all the trees that were still alive into one spot where I also grow things like chili, tomato, lemongrass, basil, pandanus, kale and papaya.
How do you take care of it all?
I water the plants from about 6am. I normally use sewage water but it depends on the rain. This place is also home to many stray cats, so I feed them using money I get from foreigners as well as my own funds.
Why do you do all this?
I just want to do it. That’s it. It makes me happy. It also gives me something to do during the day while I wait for customers.
What hopes do you have for this space?
I want it to be a park. If you look up, there are buildings everywhere. But when you look at this green space, even though it’s really overgrown, it’s far more pleasant than looking at concrete. There are no parks around here, so it would be great to make better use of it. But the land has an owner, so it’s not really up to us.
Ten years after the land next to BTS Ratchathewi was earmarked for the construction of an expressway, little has changed. A sign put up by the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration (BMA) still bars people from using the space, but the flat concrete surface boxed in by old graffiti-strewn buildings has become a de facto playground for kids and adults alike.
Nearly ten years ago, a small group of sports enthusiasts started gathering to play street football among the debris and rubbish at an empty lot under the expressway near Victory Monument. Then Piya and Marnit Suk-udomlert, two brothers with a passion for football, decided to pour their own money into making the space a proper street football facility for youngsters in the neighborhood. Now it not only attracts regular faces every night, but it also helps nurture young talents, some of whom have gone on to play in the national futsal league and even the national team.
What drove you to support street football?
My brother and I decided to help develop this place after we saw that many people were coming here to play football on a really poor surface with only small goals. We thought it would be good to establish a stronger community for football players in the neighborhood, especially as we both just love playing the sport in the evening!
Aside from being a caretaker of the space, what else do you contribute?
Anytime I hear about an upcoming football or futsal competition, I round up the skillful kids we have playing here to compete. I often help with funding for these kids, too.
What reward do you get from all your hard work?
None at all! I return any tournament prize money to the kids and also cover most of the food, travel and accommodations costs. I am extremely happy to do this and don’t think of it as losing money. One year I spent nearly half a million baht. Now and then kids will ask me to help buy them football shoes or apparel. I don’t care about winning championships, I just want to give these kids a shot at playing the sport they love.
Does this space have any rules?
Anyone can join and we’re all considered equals here. The seniors help look after the juniors. Many kids use the space and I don’t want them fighting.
What would you like to see done with abandoned spaces like this?
Firstly, I’d like some new floodlights installed here, as ours are broken. As for other spaces, I think Bangkok generally needs more sporting grounds, so why not transform what we already have?
Bangkok is home to countless abandoned spaces, many of which are decrepit and far from beautiful. But for some graffiti artists they’re a blank canvas from which they can brighten up the city and encourage more people to embrace art.
How did you become a graffiti artist?
I always liked drawing and went on to study fine arts. I had a few friends who were into skateboarding which is part of the same urban culture as graffiti. When graffiti became a big trend I pretty much taught myself how to do it. It’s an adventure to go out and spray walls. The first time was so much fun. Now I can’t stop myself. It’s given me a different angle on art.
Where do you get your inspiration?
My art is really influenced by my daughter Madee. Whenever I see her do something, I try to translate it to art. I’ve already carved out a signature style of my own, which I want people to recognize as being specifically Thai.
What’s something cool that’s happened to you while doing graffiti?
A long time ago, one of my foreign homies visited me in Bangkok. While we were spraying some walls around an abandoned space, all of a sudden this guy came up to my friend and asked, “Are you tired? Would you like something to eat?” My friend was totally afraid, but after I translated what was said, we went and had a great meal at this stranger’s house. Most Thai people are really open-minded like this; I rarely run into too much trouble.
What do you make of Bangkok’s abandoned spaces?
Quite obviously, these places are symbolic of our local economy. In a way, they’re monuments of failure and corruption.
What would you like to see done to these spaces?
I want them to be devoted to art. Thai people generally don’t visit art galleries, so maybe it’s better to have it all set outside. Personally, I like the idea of decorating our city with graffiti but these creations must have deeper meanings that really resonate with people. Often when I see a deserted place, I just can’t help but go ahead even without a permit.
It’s an all too familiar sight in our newspapers: great big pictures of officials shaking hands to open another community gym for the benefit of our children. Sure, many of these are still operational but others, like the one under the Rama 9 expressway on Praditmanoontham Rd., have fallen into complete disrepair before being completely abandoned. This particular gym once had the backing of a famous promoter; now it’s just a space where two boxing rings stand and gather a thick layer of dust. Thankfully, the surrounding concrete space sees a little more action, but it took a bunch of youngsters, calling themselves the Bangkok Hard Court Bike Polo group, to revive this lonely spot through their sport, a variation on traditional polo in which bicycles replace horses.
When did you start playing bike polo?
About two years ago after meeting others who enjoyed playing bike polo in Saimai district. But we had to stop playing there because my bicycle shop was closed down. That left us having to find other suitable places to play as bike polo requires a large, open space like a convenience store parking lot.
How did you find this place?
My young friend Hilmee told me about this place he said was abandoned and might suit our sport. When I came to check it out, I realized it was the perfect fit. It used to be a community boxing gym but no one uses it anymore, only a group of children who come to play football every evening. So we decided to use the court during the day time when they are not here.
How do you manage the space?
We regularly clean it up because it gets full of dust and garbage. We also built a low wooden fence to prevent our ball from going astray. My friend and I spent about B1,000 of our own money to buy the wood then built it. But as we share the place with others, we have to pull down our fence when we stop playing. We hope to keep using this space because the cover from the expressway means we can play in any weather.
What are your long-term plans for this place?
We all like it here and it’s best that we have a space where we can play regularly, otherwise it’s difficult to encourage more people to take up the sport. We currently play every weekend and we all keep in contact via our Facebook group “Bangkok Hard Court Bike Polo.”
How do you feel when you see similar spaces going unused?
It’s pretty disappointing. People can do lots of fun things with these abandoned spaces. Just imagine if we had a ramp for all sorts of extreme sports under the long Ramintra expressway. Wouldn’t that be cool? I also want more parks. This city is crying out for more green spaces. There’s so little room and every piece of land has an owner. I’d like for some rich people to invest their money in developing more public parks. For now we just have to make do with the spaces we have.
44, messenger
I’ve lived around here for three years and I see so many kids come to ride bikes or play sports. At dusk some migrant workers also come to play sepak takraw. It would be good to see the place tidied up a bit.
39, bike shop owner
I’ve already sent a proposal to the BMA to use the space for fixed gear bicycles, but I haven’t received a reply. Some people play basketball and football but there’s also a fair bit of drug use on-site. I’d like it to be turned into a green space, so people can exercise in a pleasant location.
28, futsal player
Many years ago, I was one of the people who first painted the lines for the pitch here. We still source our electricity for lighting from a nearby shop and we all split the bill. We’ve had a little assistance from the BMA who helped put up a fence, but we really need some new floodlights.
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These four Hong Kong districts started off as factory towns, or arose from other humble beginnings, but they’re worth exploring right now—as artists, restaurateurs and creatives turn them into hotbeds of cutting edge cuisine and design. Check out these upstarts before they become mainstream.
On the whole, Wong Chuk Hang’s industrial buildings are chockablock with wholesale food distributors, Chinese furniture-making workshops and other businesses that aren’t exactly easily browse-able. Slowly but surely, though, the area is undergoing a renaissance: art galleries love the lower rents and high ceilings of these loft-like spaces; two private kitchens opened up here for the same reasons: cost and space.
Located in the most unexpected of places, on the 22nd floor of the Kwai Bo Industrial Building (right next door to a wholesale fruit distributor), this beautifully designed private kitchen is a foodie’s paradise. The highly acclaimed and charismatic chef Stanley Wong cooks up tasty, creative dishes for groups of friends, corporate dinners or celebratory get-togethers, putting together customized menus to fit particular tastes and dietary needs. Private cooking classes are also available. Dinners start at HK$800 per person; advance bookings are required.
Unit B, 22/F, Kwai Bo Industrial Building, 40 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Wong Chuk Hang, 6799-9925, www.culinart.com.hk
Tucked away in a run-down factory building (where else?), this art space is a sanctuary for sophisticated connoisseurs of culture and curious visitors alike. The spacious gallery allows for more elaborate, large-scale exhibitions, like the recent one by Beijing-based artist Lin Guocheng, who depicts natural scenes inspired by Chinese folklore in a unique, black-and-white style.
10/F, 12 Wong Chuk Rd., Wong Chuk Hang, 2153-3812.
A colorful and eclectic array of carefully curated homeware items fills this cute store, located in a space formerly occupied by a stool factory. On display is everything from accessories and stationery to toys and shoes, as well as furniture and artwork.
M/F, BT Centre, 23 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Wong Chuk Hang, 2553-9811, www.mirthhome.com
Judging Ngau Tau Kok and its neighbor Kwun Tong by their looks alone would be a shame. Beneath the intimidating cargo lifts, enormous trucks and bland factory buildings, these industrial sites cultivate an amazing selection of cultural activities. We may already be in the thick of summer, but in Ngau Tau Kok, where workshops, a live music scene and an actual farm are blossoming, it feels more like spring.
Planning to lay down HK$1,000 on a mass-produced leather wallet or bag? Instead, consider paying a visit to Alri (pronounced elle-ree) Workshop which offers the tools and supplies to make a unique leather bag yourself. Under the tutelage of owner Alvin, you can also make a coin purse, iPhone case, wallet, camera bag or camera straps—he can even help you craft it in the style of a brand-name item. Expect to spend at least four to five hours (and anywhere from HK$450 to 1,000) on your project—leather-work is time-intensive! Book a time slot on their website first.
Flat D, 4/F, Wing Hing Lee Industrial Building, 32 Hung To Rd., Kwun Tong, 3791-2217, www.alriworkshop.com
Given its mostly industrial tenants, you’d think Kwun Tong would be dead at night. But nestled high up in a row of generic factory buildings is Strategic Sounds, which hosts shows with walk-up ticketing (HK$100-150) most weekends. The live music venue showcases mostly experimental and digital artists who attract niche followings, with Japanese noise music master KK Null a recent performer. The fact that it’s a small space without a formal stage leads to intimate performances. Owner Andrew Leung maintains the venue while juggling a day job, motivated by his aim to enrich the local music scene.
Shop E, 10/F, High Win Factory Building, 47 Hoi Yuen Rd., Kwun Tong, 9313-8371, www.facebook.com/stgsounds
These folks take a cup of joe super seriously. Beginners can opt to enroll in a latte art class or a barista course, but for those already well-versed in the coffee arts who need to outfit their kitchens, Coffee Lover carries professional coffee-makers and grinders. These passionate Java experts even roast their own blend made up of a careful selection of beans from five different countries. Don’t walk away without trying a mug of the Villa Donna coffee, too.
Flat B, 3/F, Wai Yip Industrial Building, 171 Wai Yip St., Kwun Tong, 3488-0278, www.wingyipcoffee.com
This restaurant cooks up dim sum of hotel quality at reasonable prices in a rarely frequented part of town. In the hands of a talented chef—who allegedly has celeb-worthy credentials but prefers to keep a low profile—traditional dim sum items are re-fashioned into contemporary creations. Featuring truffles and more. No single dish showcases Dim Delicious’ innovation more than their signature baked almond juice bun ($14 for two pieces). The chef selected a specific almond from Hebei province in China after sampling almonds grown all over the world. Dim Delicious is open daily from 10:30am to 3:30pm, so don’t head over too late in the day or you’ll miss out.
Flat G, 2/F, Wang Kwong Industrial Building, 45 Hong To Rd., Kwun Tong, 2950-0087.
Sai Ying Pun itself is set on the hillside, but don’t let the inclines scare you off—you’d be missing out on the low-key wonders of this modest neighborhood. A more bohemian, slightly edgier SoHo of sorts, the area around First and Second Streets, just south of Queen’s Road West, is now home to an increasing number of independent restaurants and galleries—all spirited small businesses run by people who are extremely passionate about what they do.
Expect authentic, British-style home-cooked meals, with comfort food like chicken noodle soup and on-the-go options like chicken baguettes. Everything is homemade (except the bread) and fresh. They also deliver all over Hong Kong Island.
Shop 11, G/F, Hang Sing Mansion, 72 High St., Sai Ying Pun, 2559-2190, www.thechickenman.com.hk
A new bakery, Eat My Cakes is a font of mouth-watering goodies from pies and cheesecake to cookies and cupcakes (try the “Death by Chocolate”). Catering is also available.
G/F, 21 Western St., Sai Ying Pun, 3480-8842, www.eatmycakes.com.hk
It may be popular with nearby HKU students, but adults also find this Sai Ying Pun pub a refreshing alternative to the bars in SoHo. (For one thing, its prices are cheaper!) Order a pint and some fish and chips while chatting with the two-year-old bar’s loyal customers from around the neighborhood.
G/F, 389-391 Queen’s Rd. West, Sai Ying Pun, 2698-2468.
From illustration and graphic design to street art and works referencing pop culture, Above Second strives to stay ahead of the curve. A platform for innovative contemporary art, this gallery showcases an array of Hong Kong artists and international artists. We hear they throw pretty cool parties, too, so you’d best get on their mailing list.
31 Eastern St., Sai Ying Pun, 3483-7950, www.above-second.com
The entrepreneurs who have made Chai Wan their home echo each other in their reasons for setting up shop in this part of town. More space and lower rents were the initial impetus—but as a bonus, many say, they’ve found a friendly community of creative thinkers. Keep up with the Facebook page www.facebook.com/ChaiWanMei for upcoming special events dedicated to showcasing what’s happening in Chai Wan.
The mission of Platform China’s original outlet in Beijing was to track down, support and exhibit emerging Chinese contemporary artists—and it plans to do the same in Hong Kong. Part gallery and part salon, manager Claudia Albertini also plans to host visiting artists and encourage site-specific projects.
Unit 601, 6/F, Chai Wan Industrial City (Phase I), 60 Wing Tai Rd., Chai Wan, 9768-8093, www.platformchina.org.
This cozy café slash restaurant—already well-known among the city’s epicures for its top-quality coffee—arose out of necessity, according to owner Jehan Chu. Expect a satisfying menu of hearty salads and innovative sandwiches, plus desserts by a former Press Room Group pastry chef; consume them in the company of friends or a magazine in Chaiwanese’s sunny, open space.
Room 1307, 13/F, Chai Wan Industrial City (Phase I), 60 Wing Tai Rd., Chai Wan, 6111-4583, www.chaiwanese.com.
These two sister shops are treasure troves for funky, trendy clothing and accessories for both men and women. Undercover sells only attire and shoes by the Japanese brand of the same name. A few doors down, past a wholesale beer and soda distributor, the walls of Silly Thing are lined with demure, understated pieces: shoes, sunglasses and leather goods. The boutique is selective, stocking brands like Chapel of Dawn, Alden and Arts & Science.
Undercover: Unit 11, G/F, Block B, Ming Pao Industrial Centre, 18 Ka Yip St., Chai Wan, 2881-8002, www.think-silly.com.
Silly Thing: Unit 8, G/F, Block B, Ming Pao Industrial Centre, 18 Ka Yip St., Chai Wan, 2898-2199, www.think-silly.com.
One of the region’s best-known art book publishers, Asia One has a two-year-old bookstore on the ground floor with Hong Kong’s widest selection of specialty photography volumes. As of May, the company also launched a brand new gallery that’s exceedingly unique in a city full of funky art spaces. Occupying 10 floors of a stairwell, the art is hung along the walls and at the landings.
G/F and 3-13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip St., Chai Wan, 2976-0913, www.aophotobook.com and www.aovertical.com.
Located closest to the MTR station of all of these places, Ma Cuisine is the private kitchen arm of French gourmet food and wine purveyor Monsieur Chatte, which has a shop in Sheung Wan and another in Elements. The restaurant is a homely venue with a long wooden table, an open kitchen and a seating area for smaller groups. Reservations required.
Unit A, 3/F, Unison Industrial Building, 7 Sun Yip St., Chai Wan, 5129-7249, www.monsieurchatte.com.
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Bagspace’s take on one of the most popular types of man bag is sized at 15” and made from nubuck leather in oak brown finish. Available at 6,490.
Order online at www.bagspace.in.th, 080-810-0800.
Tumi’s Beacon Hill collection features minimal leather backpacks in brown or black with multi-pockets that can handle everything from stationery to an iPad. Our favorite is the Brimmer backpack in black, coming soon at Tumi shops nationwide (price TBA).
2/F Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., Bangkok, 02-690-1000. BTS Siam.
Made from 100% cowhide, this “Tokyo” bag from Container comes in four colors: brown, black, grey and beige (pictured). Available for B16,500.
4/F Zen Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd., Bangkok, 02-100-9999.
Minor Shop is rolling out a handmade leather bag with removable straps available in four colors: brown, black, dark brown and red brown. Do hurry, though, they are extremely limited. Medium size available at B690-740 and mini size at B580.
Order online at www.facebook.com/minorsshop, 086-550-5428.
The Legacy collection by Coach is all about stripes and vibrant color-blocking, along with an emphasis on glove-tanned leather. We particularly like the Bleecker Leather Colorblock Utility Tote that comes with a single-shoulder strap, B29,900.
1/F CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., Bangkok, 02-646-1881.
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1116/4 Nakornchaisri Rd., Ratchawat, 02-241-4879. Open Wed-Mon 8am-2pm
A.K.A. Guay Tiew Nuea Naa Sapha, the place was originally a zaleng (pushcart) selling beef noodles in front of the parliament some 30 years ago. The guay niew nuea (B30) here are often described as the best in town. The soup is indeed succulent, aromatic and bursting with beefy flavors, while the big chunks of beef are tender and toothsome.
Nakornchaisri Rd., Sri Yan, 086-973-0756, 080-973-5772. Open daily 4-10pm
Sat in front of Soi Chantima Theatre, Orawan might seem even grungier than your average stall, but we guarantee a dish of pad Thai (B30) here will make you forget any worries about hygiene. The daughter of the owner told us that her secret lies in the top-notch ingredients they use, such as real tamarind sauce. It shows. The result is a powerful flavor with pitch-perfect balance.
775 Nakornchaisri Rd., Ratchawat 02-241-1860. Open Mon-Fri 11am-2pm; 5pm-12:30am
The yod pak rad na (B50) here contains only young kale leaves and they peel off the skin of the kale, which is pretty darn impressive for a basic rad na (noodles in thick gravy) shophouse. Nai Ma has been in the business for more than 50 years and now his son continues with the same recipe—with no added MSG (for those who care). Another thing we like is the delicious, tender and juicy pork. We suggest you opt for the kao lao pad see ew (stir-fried pork and kale with soy sauce, B60) and khao pad prik kana (stir-fried pork and kale with chili served with rice, B60), both equally impressive dishes.
103 Nakornchaisri Rd., Sri Yan, 02-241-1897. Open daily 5pm-1am
If the charming and nostalgic look of this shophouse cannot attract you to walk in, their food certainly will. The place focuses on khao tom (boiled rice) and a brief list of made-to-order dishes that ranges from kha moo palo (stewed pork knuckle, B40) and pad pak (stir-fried vegetables, B40) to pla chon tom khem (steamed catfish in soy sauce, B50). The food might be old school, but what matters is the great taste and the freshness of the vegetables.
In front of S&P Sri Yan, Nakornchaisri Rd., Sri Yan, 089-501-5610. Open daily 5pm-midnight
A few steps from Khao Tom Sri Yan, this stall attracts throngs queuing up for its guay tiew gai toon nam dang (noodles with steamed chicken in herbal soup). The most popular parts are the chicken legs and feet with mouth-watering, fall-off-the-bone meat. The broth is also luscious and that might explain the long waits you’ll have to put up with for a taste of perfection. Prices start from B35 for the chicken leg.
151/1 Nakornchaisri Rd., Sri Yan, 02-243-3537. Open daily 7am-4pm
It’s been here for over 40 years and you’ve probably already heard of it. Look Chin Sri Yan has never opened any branches so this is the only true place to get your meatball and noodles (B35) fix. The look chin here have a bouncy, meaty texture and a potent flavor that indicates very little flour goes into the mix. The clear broth is just as addictive, so that you’ll be tempted to drink from the bowl. Hot tip: do call ahead if you want to drop by in the afternoon as they run out of beef balls pretty early.
Near Sri Yan Soi 1, Sri Yan, 081-582-7345. Open Tue-Sun 8am-3pm
The friendly auntie of an owner tells us that she’s been selling hor mok (fishcakes) for some 20 years. With top quality catfish and clown featherback, prices are a bit of a steal at just B20 a piece. Expect generous chunks of fish without the fishy smell. All ingredients are fresh, including the coconut topping. Deep-fried catfish bones are available on Sun, but do call ahead if you plan to visit after 2pm.
Across from Ratchawat Market, Ratchawat, 081-916-0974, 02-241-3840, 02-591-5998. Open daily 5-11pm
Once you’re done with the savory highlights, treat your stomach right with some dessert, like kanom krok (coconut pudding). This stall is plastered with pictures telling of royal visits, hence the name Kao Wang (“Enter the Palace”). The kanom krok is very light, fresh and crunchy, while the coconut milk is so superb you may just gobble everything up instead of bringing some back to your office or family. Get the original flavor (28 pieces for B40) and avoid bagging the hot box so it doesn’t get soggy.
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Balaclava
A surprisingly cozy spot for chilling out after indulging in retail therapy at ION. Sip signature cocktails like Pavadoni ($22) and Bitter Twist ($18)—a powerful concoction of whiskey, ginger ale and angustora bitters. Recently renovated, this 220-setter packs a punch with live performances by resident band Shagies.
Brotzeit
This German bar in the heart of the CBD is a popular spot with beer lovers—and for good reason. Expect rare treats like Kellerbier Anno1417, an unfiltered lager ($15.50 per bottle). They’ve even got beer mixes like Affensaft ($12.50 per pint), which comprises Weissbier beer with a choice of banana syrup or mango juice—perfect if you’ve got a sweet tooth.
Jibiru Craft Beer Bar
With nearly 40 beers on offer, this popular spot on the 313 approach is a real gem. True to its name, the ginger ale ($13.50 for 330ml) here is a full bodied beer with fresh raw Japanese ginger. Also great is the refreshing Hitachino nest white ale ($14.90 for 300ml)—a multi award-winning wheat beer spiced with coriander, nutmeg and orange peel. Until the end of the month, their Yoho canned beers go for just $10++ from 5-9pm every day.
The Pump Room Gastro Bar
With a small alfresco area overlooking Kim Seng Road, this microbrewery is a good spot before heading upstairs for a film at Golden Village. Be sure to try their award-winning Indian pale ale and gold medal golden ale (both $16.50 per pint)—crisp and clean, this easy-drinking beer goes great with their Fisherman’s basket ($30).
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They aren’t kidding around with this baby. Load up on this concoction of dark Mount Gay Eclipse rum, Luxardo Maraschino liqueur, tawny Port and Aperol. The notes of orange and lemon serve to distract from the boozy flavor, but you know you’re going to have a wicked hangover the next day.
$190 for 15-20 servings from Jigger & Pony.
This is as traditional as they come. Just a whole lot of brandy, Cointreau, 2010 Miguel Torres Tempranillo from Spain, lemon, lime and orange wedges and juice, tempered with sugar syrup and lemonade, make this the perfect summer refreshment on a balmy day; enjoy with a healthy dose of people watching.
$95 for 10-15 servings from Salt tapas & bar.
Only fresh ingredients (aside from the booze) including an assortment of berries and herbs like basil, rosemary and thyme go into this seemingly innocent number. But don’t let its fruity and herbaceous nature fool you, lashings of Grey Goose, Bombay Sapphire, Giffard Ginger and Cassis liqueur, as well as a full bottle of Bottega Gold Prosecco give it oomph.
$298 for 12-16 servings from Maison Ikkoku.
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Exercising on the ground can get a little dull. But in the air? That’s something new. Test your balancing skills and push your limits with these aerial arts.
Aerial Arts
Using aerial hoops and silks, instructors will teach you the art of perfecting graceful movements and poses in mid-air. It may sound easy but this full body workout will activate and tone core muscles, glutes and strengthen your upper body. Improve your balance, coordination and flexibility with ease and grace—it’s also great for conquering fear of heights.
At Pure Fitness Asia Square. Membership starts from $150 per month.
Circus Arts
If you’ve always secretly wondered what it’s like to be a trapeze artist, this is for you.Learn how to suspend yourself using apparatus like the static trapeze, lyra (more commonly known as aerial hoops) and silks. Students here performed at the opening of the Youth Olympic Games, so you can be sure the instructors know their stuff. Both introductory classes ($35) and eight-week courses ($280) are available.
At Circus Swingapore. Membership is $50 per year.
Floating Yoga
Get ready to be suspended on soft trapeze hammocks, while engaging in flexible yoga poses mid-air—a unique fusion technique that relieves compressed joints while strengthening lower abdominal muscles. A complete exercise program, this allows your entire body to become stronger and more unified by aligning your body from head to toe with specific poses. You’ll be showing off a tight six pack in no time.
At Celebrity Fitness. Membership starts from $68 per month.
YogaFly
A fusion of traditional yoga, dance and aerial acrobatics, YogaFly targets core muscles without placing unnecessary pressure on the spine and joints. Being constantly supported by a fabric swing allows you to strike poses that would otherwise be strenuous on a mat—improving posture, flexibility and joint mobility. Think handstands and flips you never thought you could achieve.
At Upside Motion.
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Chinatown, Singapore. Free. www.chinatownfestivals.sg
The Chinese population in Singapore celebrate the Mid-Autumn Festival with street parades, dragon dances, multi-cultural performances and spectacular fireworks displays. The opening ceremony takes place at New Bridge and Eu Tong Sen roads on Sep 16. Check the website for the entire schedule.
Gasometer-D-Park, Beijing, China. Free. www.bjdw.org/en
After its successful debut last year, China’s premier design festival is back promising a week-long celebration of contemporary art, architecture and design through seminars, talks, summits and exhibitions. In collaboration with 751 D-Park, the center of Beijing’s hip and happening design community, the theme for the event is “Design Changes Life.” The guest city this year is going to be Milan in an effort to enhance cultural exchange and creative dialogue.
Singapore. S$58-1,288. www.singaporegp.sg
Twenty-four very fast Formula One cars will take to the city streets of Singapore on the night of Sep 23, but it’s just as easy to get excited about the lineup of entertainment that will be running alongside the actual race weekend—headlined by Katy Perry, Maroon 5 and Jay Chou. Tickets are from S$58 for one day in the walkabout zone to S$1,288 for three days in the grandstands.
Taipei, Taiwan. NT$2,500-3,500. www.twinklerockfestival.com
Closing the curtain of this year’s Twinkle rock concert series is a headline gig by former Oasis member, Noel Gallagher, as part of his High Flying Birds world tour.
Brisbane (Sep 29), Sydney (Sep 30), Perth (Oct 1), Melbourne (Oct 6), Adelaide (Oct 7), Australia. Various prices. www.parklife.com.au
For many Aussies, spending long spring evenings in the park goes hand-in-hand with enjoying live music. And that’s where Parklife comes in, kicking off the festival season down under. One of Australia’s largest outdoor music festivals, it started in 2000. This year’s event will travel to five major cities with a lineup packed with dance-oriented acts, including Passion Pit, Justice, Rusko and The Presets.
Melbourne, Australia. Various prices. www.melbournefestival.com.au
First staged in 1986 as the Spoleto Melbourne Festival,x following the lead of sister festivals in Spoleto (Italy) and Charleston (USA), this is now one of the largest showcases of performing arts in Australia. Commonly referred to as the Melbourne Festival, the 2012 edition will feature 74 shows (up from 52 last year), including 18 world premieres and 33 Australian premieres. Highlights include After Life, a contemporary opera by Michel van der Aa, and Swanlights, a collaboration between Antony and the Johnsons and the New York’s Museum of Modern Art (MoMA).
Kinabalu National Park, Malaysia. RM100-150. www.climbathon.my
If Nichkhun’s recent performance as a long-distance runner hasn’t tempted you, perhaps the prospect of tackling Southeast Asia’s highest peak will. Now in its 26th year, the Climbathon requires participants to run for 21km up and down Mt Kinabalu in Borneo. Prize money for the mountain race, one of the world’s toughest, totals some US$50,000.
Sepang International Circuit, Malaysia. RM21-191. www.malaysiangp.com.my
More fuel for petrol-heads, the Grand Prix motorbike racing caravan arrives at the world-renowned Sepang International Circuit just outside of KL. Expect the world’s best racers jostling for position in the MotoGP, Moto2 and Moto3 classes.
Kyoto, Japan. Free. www.yokosojapan.com
One of the three largest annual festivals of Kyoto, the former capital city of Japan, Jidai Matsuri or the Festival of the Ages celebrates the glorious history of the country. Inaugurated in 1895 to mark the 1,100th year of Kyoto, it sees locals of all ages dress up in traditional costumes from different eras to participate in a 4.6-km parade to Heian Shrine. The parade starts at around noon and lasts around two-and-a-half hours.
S$95-175, 4-person box S$580-700, Marina Bay Sands, Singapore, and HK$350-950, HKAPA Lyric Theatre, Hong Kong.
World-famous ice-skating company The Imperial Ice Stars presents its latest production based on the classic Russian tale of a girl whose love brings to life her beloved nutcracker doll. Premiered in South Africa in December 2011, it features the memorable score from Tchaikovsky and a cast of 26 professional skaters from around the world. It glides into Asia at Marina Bay Sands in Singapore (Oct 23-28) and the HKAPA Lyric Theatre in Hong Kong (Nov 6-18).
Parade: free. Parties: presale NT$2,800-3,600/three days, at door NT$900-1,000/one day. www.taiwan-pride.com
Arguably Asia’s LGBT capital (though Bangkok also might feel differently), Taipei celebrates the 10th anniversary of its LGBT Pride Parade this year, with its grandest-ever march on Oct 27. Along with the official movement, HX Production, a local circuit party organiser, is hosting a three-day weekend with three parties at three different clubs (Jump, Att4Fun and Luxy), featuring top gay-event DJs, from Alex Taylor and David S to Louis T and Spectrum K.
Hong Kong. Free. www.discoverhongkong.com
Hong Kong’s best known culinary festival is now in its fourth year, bringing together hundreds of restaurants and wine cellars from more than 20 countries at the West Kowloon Waterfront Promenade in Tsim Sha Tsui, all for your sampling pleasure. And the picturesque Victoria Harbour is the backdrop.
Canberra, Australia. A$109.95-249.95. www.foreshorefestival.com.au
The Australian capital of Canberra is not as quiet and dreary as you might think, especially during the Foreshore Festival. Now in its 6th year, Foreshore takes over Commonwealth Park with a line up consisting—no, not jazz bands—some of the world’s biggest electronic acts, like Tiesto, Calvin Harris, Porter Robinson and Bassnectar.
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Willin Low
Owner/chef of Wild Rocket, Wild Oats and Relish
Hokkien mee’s my hawker dish of choice! I get it at Hainan Fried Hokkien Prawn Mee (#B1-34 Golden Mile Food Centre, 505 Beach Rd., 6294-6798). The noodles are fried with wonderful wok hei. The noodles soak up the wonderful flavor from the stock, which is made with prawns, squid and pork. Divine.
Yuan Oeij
Chairman of The Privé Group
Artichoke’s Lambgasm, a Greek style 2.8 kg slow-roasted whole shoulder of lamb flavored with oregano, lemon, garlic and white wine, served with a range of sides. I love that the lamb is clean-tasting and very fall-off-the-bone tender; it needs to be ordered 48 hours in advance.
Shen Tan
Chef and owner of Wok & Barrel
I love bak chor mee and the best place for it is High Street Tai Wah Pork Noodle (#01-16 Bestway Building, 12 Prince Edward Rd). I love the blend of flavors—the heat from the chilli, the unctuous lard, tangy vinegar, sweet ketchup and savory soy sauce. Plus, the noodles are silken and the sauce well-balanced.
Matthew White
Consulting chef at Extra Virgin Pizza
I’ve always loved lamb and the grilled Colorado lamb chops at CUT are fantastic. They’re marinated in a thick yogurt with spices and herbs before being broiled and then put on their wood- and coal-burning grill for even more flavor.
Bruno Ménard
Chef of &Made by Bruno Ménard and La Cantine (opening in mid-September)
I love chicken rice and for that, I go to Boon Tong Kee (425 River Valley Rd., 6736-3213). I always order white and not roasted chicken, which is moist and tender.
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You’ve seen it everywhere from accessories to clothing, now you can add a little playfulness to your room with some good old leopard print. Available for B390 per square meter.
Design Option, Ekkamai Soi 21, Sukhumvit Rd., Bangkok, 02-711-4872.
This is one for scenery lovers with the wallpaper featuring a view of an actual mountain. Available for B1,800 per square meter.
Bodhi Tree, 3/F, Golden Pearl Building, Sukhumvit Soi 101/1, Bangkok, 02-747-9493. BTS Udomsuk.
A mix of elegance and modernity, the Zircon collection from Eijffinger is inspired by stones and minerals, using a shadow effect that makes the medallion design seem to rise above the background. In matte colors like brown, cream and grey, with a mica finish, prices start from B4,500-5,500 per five square meters.
Goodrich Gallery, 58 Sukhumvit 63, Bangkok, 02-381-7778.
The Arabian Living collection, one of the latest from Bodhi Tree, blends earthy tones in warm colors like red and yellow with various Arabic geometric patterns. Our favorite (pictured) is available for B2,252 per square meter.
Bodhi Tree, 3/F, Golden Pearl Building, Sukhumvit Soi 101/1, Bangkok, 02-747-9493. BTS Udomsuk.
Inspired by the house Jim Thompson built on Klong Saen Saep during the 1950s, the House on the Klong collection is all about minimalist designs that draw on handwoven silks and the traditional Thai way of life in the rice fields. Our favorite is the Jim’s Dream wallpaper, B2,600, which depicts the various stages of silk making in dark grey. The collection starts from B1,950-2,700 per square meter.
Jim Thompson, 9 Surawong Rd., Bangkok, 02-632-8100.
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