Sony Ericsson Z550i

The latest phone from Sony Ericsson, the Z550i, sports all the cool features you’ve come to expect, like a 1.3 megapixel camera with a 4x digital zoom, an HTML browser and Bluetooth capabilities. But what really sets it apart is that it’s wrapped in a Sterling Black or Pearl Copper casing that combines premium brushed metal and high gloss material, making it one very fetching phone. The Z550i is available now for $498 at The M1 Shop (#B1-28/29 Paragon, 290 Orchard Rd., Hotline: 1800-843-8383).

Nokia Nseries Experience Studio

If you’re looking to pick up one of Nokia’s Nseries phones, or if you just want to have a go at their cool features—like photography, videology and music players—you can swing by the new Nokia Nseries Experience Studio (#01-10/11 Scotts Shopping Centre, 6 Scotts Rd., Customer Service Line: 6822-8888). This chic shop allows customers to try out the phones to their hearts content in a chilled out environment that encourages you to linger.

Motorola MOTOMING

The latest smart phone from Motorola, the MOTOMING, is a great mix of style and substance. It’s a svelte and chic mobile device, which features—among other things—cursive handwriting recognition, a music player, instant messaging via IM Wireless Village, video capture and, most importantly, a high performance personal information manager. It’s available now for $818 and you can pick it up at Hello! @ Bugis Junction (#01-50/50A, Parco Bugis Junction, 200 Victoria St., Hotline: 1626).

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The high definition (or hi-def) movement is set to take off here. This is what you need to be there when it happens.

If video killed the radio star, then high definition is going to annihilate everything in its path. The latest revolution in home entertainment, hi-def—which brings a kind of clarity to the entire visual and audio experience that was unheard of before—is primed to change the way you enjoy everything, from television right down to your video games. We’ve got the lowdown on the must-have hi-def gear that’s out there right now, as well as what’s in store for you in the near future.

Sony KLV-32S200A LCD TV

What’s It All About: Sony’s KLV-32S200A is one of the latest additions to their BRAVIA LCD television range. With its BRAVIA Engine one chip digital processor, this 32-inch hi-def TV features sharp pictures with striking colors that left us drooling. On top of stunning picture quality, the KLV-32S200A also boasts fantastic sound quality with SRS TruSurround XT and is compatible as a computer screen. Of course, it doesn’t hurt that it’s one very beautiful looking set either.

How Much Is It: $1,599.

Where To Get It: The Sony Gallery, #04-36/37/38 Paragon, 290 Orchard Rd., 6738-7970.

Xbox 360

What’s It All About: Undoubtedly dominating the market since it launched here a few months ago (and for good reason), the Xbox 360 is currently unmatched as far as console gaming goes. With graphics that were specifically designed to be enjoyed on a hi-def television screen and three separate core processors that clock in at 3.2 GHz each so that it runs at amazing speed, plus a whole host of popular games to choose from—like the sexy Perfect Dark Zero and the ground-breaking Halo 2—it’s no wonder gamers have been clamoring to get their mitts on one.

How Much Is It: $660.

Where To Get It: Challenger Superstore, #06-00 Funan Digitalife Mall, 109 North Bridge Rd., 6336-7747.

Samsung Sonoma S7 LCD TV

What’s It All About: Samsung recently launched their Sonoma S7 LCD TV and we have to say that we were impressed. Thanks to its Digital Image engine (DNIe) technology, this television features crystal clear quality visuals that make even the slightest detail astoundingly lucid. Sound quality is nothing to scoff at either, with SRS TruSurround XT. The Sonoma could also double up as one mind-blowing computer screen. What’s more, this baby just looks good, being stylishly sleek and slim.

How Much Is It: The 32-inch goes for $2,199, while the 40-inch costs $3,999.

Where To Get It: Best Denki, #04-09/12 Plaza Singapura, 68 Orchard Rd., 6333-0110.

Bang & Olufsen BeoLab 5 Speakers

What’s It All About: These wicked speakers from Bang & Olufsen define top of the line. A boon to the hi-def lifestyle (to say the least), the BeoLab 5 Speakers are among the most powerful all-digital home speakers, utilizing Acoustic Lens Technology, which reproduces sound so well that quality is evenly good, no matter where you are in the room. The BeoLab also features The Moving Microphone System, which measures reflections in the room, which the Adaptive Bass Control in turn analyzes and adapts to the bass unit’s performance, so that you always have the perfect acoustic level for your room.

How Much Is It: $30,300!

Where To Get It: Bang & Olufsen Showroom, #01-05 Grand Hyatt Singapore, 10-12 Scotts Rd., 6737-7500.

LG 5.1 Home DVD Theatre System LH-T7632MB

What’s It All About: The latest high-end home theater system from LG has it all—aside from the expected formats like DVD+R and MP3 files, the LH-T7632MB also features USB Port compatibility, which means that it can playback all multimedia digital files (which includes formats such as DivX). It also has a sound system that utilizes, among others, Dolby Digital and DTS, which means nothing but incredibly crisp sound quality. On top of all this, the entire system is beautifully designed, matching its quality with equal amounts of stunning looks.

How Much Is It: $599.

Where To Get It: Harvey Norman, #03-08 Centrepoint, 176 Orchard Rd., 6732-8686.

New Kid in Town: Blu-Ray

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Installation artist Takashi Kuribayashi creates a mystical world with his art works.

Takashi Kuribayashi’s art will throw you off a little. Designed to upset conventional ideas and logic, his works often invoke mystery and surprise. His site-specific installations at Hermès and Tanglin Camp, entitled Hermès Column and Aquarium: I feel like I am in a fishbowl respectively, are no exceptions.

 

For Hermès Column, Kuribayashi creates a bogus pillar with a secret chamber, weaving a fantasy shopping area for fake seals. “The basic concept is of seals going shopping. I want to create a cheerful ambience. I create a fake pillar, and make a hole in it. The seals will come out from the pillar and come shopping. This is a gallery, but I’ll put Hermès’s products all over to make it like a boutique. In a corner, there will be wetsuits for the seals. The audience will come and discover a kind of connection to a different world,” Kuribayashi quips.

Aquarium: I feel like I am in a fishbowl is no less intriguing. “When you experience this art work, you’ll feel like you’re looking into an aquarium, but at the same time, someone is looking back at you. For example, when you go to the zoo, you think you are looking at animals, but actually the animals are watching human beings. I’m dealing with that kind of changing perceptions and situations here,” he says.

When talking about his influences, Kuribayashi points to his father: “He is a photographer and specifically captures images of insects. He was one of the most famous photographers in that area, and is very dedicated and committed to his work. I really respect that kind of attitude.”

Do check out the riveting shows Kuribayashi has put up for the Singapore Biennale 2006. Quirky and uncanny, they provoke you to put aside your common sense (for a while) and indulge in a fantasy world he has created.

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From praying for a lover to going to a lady boy show, here are the essential things to do only in Bangkok

1. Go food hunting at Yaowarat. Forget about the calorie counting. Break all the diet rules and hit the food vendors that line the streets of Chinatown. Feast on a plethora of delectable grub including red BBQ pork, dim sum, roasted chestnuts, kuay jub, grilled seafood, noodles, and much, much more. Just don’t forget the ENO antacid.

2. Shopping spree at Chatuchak. It’s Sunday afternoon. The heat is rising. You are sweating buckets in the sticky, crowded market, but an incredible range of bargains makes the whole trip worthwhile. Before you know it, you’ve got bags of shirts, pants, shoes and handicrafts at your side and a brand new puppy trailing along behind. First-timers might want to check out www.jatujakguide.com.

3. Pray for a lover with Pra Trimurati. Desperately seeking your other half? Save yourself the embarrassment of having to go to a speed dating event and make your way to Trimurati shrine in front of the Central World Plaza on Ratchadamri Road instead. The best time to go is on Thursday at 9:30pm, when it is believed the god comes down to help the lovesick. Don’t forget to bring a rose garland, one candle and nine incense sticks—all in red.

4. Go horse racing. What better way to pass a Sunday afternoon than cheering for your favorite pony? A cheap entrance fee and cold beer make the activity more appealing, even if you aren’t into racing. There are two tracks in town—the Royal Turf Club (Phitsanulok Road, 02-280-0020-9) and the Royal Bangkok Sports Club (Henri Dunant Road, 02-251-0181-6). Races are held every other Sunday, 12:30-6pm. Admission is B50-300.

5. Go to a lady boy cabaret. Straight up, the lady boys of Bangkok offer a hell of a show, packed with invigorating entertainment, over-the-top costumes, flamboyant choreography and healthy pinches of silliness and humor. Get out of the closet and sing along to “I Will Survive.” The Calypso Cabaret (Asia Hotel, Phayathai Road, 02-653-3960 ext. 2, www.calypsocabaret.com) has two shows daily—8:15pm and 9:45pm.

6. Take a boat ride. Though most of the klongs that earned Bangkok the nickname “Venice of the East” have been filled to make way for roads, you can still enjoy a breezy boat ride along the Chao Phraya River. On a clear (or bad traffic) day, buy a B100 one-day pass from the Chao Phraya Express Boat (02-623-6001, 02-225-3003, www.chaophrayaboat.co.th) and enjoy unlimited trips to explore the city from a whole new perspective. Boats stop at 10 major piers including Sathorn and Phra Athit. Every Sunday, there’s also a ferry to Koh Kred in Nonthaburi.

7. Visit the TCDC. The greatest creation since sliced bread (or in our case somtam), the Thailand Creative and Design Center (6/F, The Emporium, 02-664-8448, BTS Phrom Phong, www.tcdc.or.th) has done the impossible: drawing Thais to art exhibitions (interestingly, it took putting a gallery in a mall to do it). From the fabulous Isaan Retrospective and Marimekko exhibitions to the current Vivienne Westwood display, art has never been this tempting.

8. Root for Thai boxers. Fatal kicks, deadly punches, furious elbow strikes... You’ve seen it in the papers and watched it on TV, but nothing compares to seeing these moves executed live in a stadium with thousands of fans cheering in the background. Get your adrenaline going at Lumpini Stadium (Rama 4 Road, 02-252-8765, 02-251-4303, www.muaythailumpini.com. Fight nights: Tue, Fri, Sat) or Ratchadamneon Stadium (Ratchadamneon Nok, 02-281-4205. Fight nights: Mon, Wed, Thu, Sun).

9. Climb the Banyan Tree. Whether you are a fitness enthusiast with enough stamina to race up 1,093 steps, seek to defy gravity or simply want to help a good cause, the Banyan Tree’s Vertical Marathon is a challenging mission. The annual charity event occurs this year on September 10, 2006, with the finish line being Vertigo restaurant on the 61st floor (South Sathorn Rd., 02-679-1200). Even if you can’t complete the marathon in one fell swoop, joining the event is a good deed as the proceeds go to support the HIV Formula Feeding Fund.

10. Enjoy the view at Sirocco. Picture this: You are dining al fresco on the 64th floor of Bangkok’s second-tallest building with glittering lights of the city below and the twinkling stars above. Breezy jazz tunes waft through the air. The spherical Sky Bar fascinates with its alternating pastel hues. What romantic ambiance Sirocco (The Dome, State Tower, Silom Road, 02-624-9555, Open daily 6pm-1am, www.thedomebkk.com) provides! Though the prices are as sky-high as the building itself, the panoramic view makes it worth at least enjoying a cocktail…or a mineral water.

11. See puppets at Naatayasala Hun Lakorn Lek (Joe Louis Theater). The Joe Louis Theater (1875 Suan Lum Night Bazaar, Rama 4 Road, 02-252-9683-4, www.thaipuppet.com) derives its name from the nickname of Sakorn Yangkaewsot, who has devoted himself to bringing life to hun lakorn lek (small puppets). It is the only place in Thailand to be mesmerized by an exquisite performance as puppeteers deftly master their lifelike marionettes. Showtime is 7:30pm. B400 for Thai, B900 for foreigners.

12. Reach for the stars. Why just vote for them when you can join and win? The first season of Academy Fantasia saw Vit, a local Justin Timberlake from Nonthaburi, win the popular award, while fresh-faced Aof from Chainart swept the patronesses off their feet and took over the AF2 throne. But no winners from Bangkok...yet!

13. Express yourself. Remember the Sondhi-led demonstration in March? Remember the buzz, the solidarity among our fellow compatriots? If you missed out on that one, there are many other ways you can express your love for democracy and voice your opinion, whether or not it be in the majority. Also mark your calendar for the upcoming Election Day on October 15.

14. Take a bus somewhere. Frustrated with the traffic jam? Chances are most of you are sitting comfortably in your car while moaning about traffic. From time to time, try hopping on a bus, preferably non-air-conditioned. It’s a humbling experience to ride with the masses. See how hard it is for the common man to get from here to there?

15. Swim with the sharks. Add a thrill to your mundane 9-to-5 life and get up close and personal with the glorious sea predators. No need to head to the ocean since Siam Ocean World (B1-22F, Siam Paragon, BTS Siam, 02-687-2000, www.siamoceanworld.com, www.sharkdive.org) brings the ocean to you, right under the mega mall. Accompanied by the experts, the spine-tingling dive requires no experience, just guts.

16. Volunteer. Bangkok has been so nice to you, why not give something back? Help the injured at the Ruamkatanyu Foundation (www.ruamkatanyu.or.th), or make an audio book for the blind at the Bangkok School for the Blind (420 Ratchavithi Road, 02-246-0070, 02-246-1431, www.blind.or.th/school/volunteer). There are hundreds of opportunities out there—find the one that best suits you.

17. Visit Wat Phra Kaew. The top of any tourist’s must-visit list, the splendid Wat Phrasrirattana Sasadaram, better known as Wat Phra Kaew, has been a part of Bangkok since its inception. Don’t forget to pay homage to the Emerald Buddha. (Na Phra Lan Rd., Open daily 8:30am-3:30pm)

18. Queue for somtam at Tam Nua. The queue at Tam Nua (392/14 Siam Square Soi 5, 02-251-4880. Open daily 11.15am-9pm) is ridiculously long, but their spicy somtam and crispy fried chicken is just too good to pass up. If you just walk in and get seated, consider yourself extremely lucky.

19. Eat some scary food. Goy (spicy salad with raw pork), goong ten (live shrimp with chili and herbs), khai khao (egg containing undeveloped embryo)...when it comes to weird food of questionable safety, Bangkok has it all as long as you can muster up the courage to eat it. Take a baby step and start with fried insects.

20. Visit a haunted house. We heard the tales about the unfortunate maid who was beaten to death by burglars in a now deserted house tucked away in the secluded Ramkhamhaeng Soi 32…We’ve also have heard from people driving past the house that say they saw the ghost in the rear view mirror…Do ghosts really exist? Find out for yourself.

21. Hit the dance floor at Dude/Sweet. Is there any party in town that could top the madness of a Dude/Sweet event? We doubt it. (Check BK or www.dudesweet.org)

22. Get lost in Siam Paragon. In this consumer labyrinth, exercising and shopping are no longer mutually exclusive.

23. Count down to a new year at Central World Plaza. Now that the shopping mall has completed its makeover, the countdown to the 2007 will be glitzier than ever.

24. Be in a Thai movie. Stop complaining about bad acting and keep an eye out for open casting calls.

25. Visit a prisoner at Klong Prem Central Prison. Think your life is bad? Go talk to an inmate (222 Nonthaburi 1 Rd., 02-967-2222).

26. Read BK from cover to cover. We do, every week.

27. Go on a ladies’ night pub-crawl. Guys, why let the girls have all the fun? Throw on a dress and see what happens.

28. Buy a government lottery ticket. You could be the next billionaire.

29. Be a paparazzo. With a hi-tech mobile phone, you can take snapshots of celebrities and sell them to the tabloids. Nice hobby.

30. Get a tattoo on Khao San. All the backpackers do it. Permanent or henna.

31. Book the front row of P’Bird concert. The only chance you have to see a concert with your mom, aunt and grandmother.

32. Practice tai chi in Lumpini Park. It’s free, it’s fun, it’s good for you—need we say more?

33. See a film at House RCA. Support one of the few places that screen independent films. House (31/8, RCA, 02-641-5177, www.houserama.com) is super-cute just for coffee, too!

34. Visit Khao Din Zoo. Revisit your childhood and gape at the animals. (71 Rama 5 Rd., 02-281-2000. Open daily 8pm-9pm)

35. Have a nude photo taken. The celebrities all do it, why can’t you?

36. Pay a last visit to Don Muang. You’ve a mere three weeks left before Suvarnabhumi finally opens.

37. Buy X-rated VCDs on Silom. You don’t always have to say “no” to their naughty offer.

38. See the King. It’s a one-in-a-million chance to express how grateful you are to be one of his citizens.

39. Buy a garland from street kids. You may not want one, but at least you can help them go home earlier.

40. Join an Amway meeting. An hour of cheering, flattering remarks and pep talk fills even the shyest of people with confidence.

41. See the dragons in Lumpini Park. Just don’t feed them, OK?

42. Take a motorcycle ride through Klong Toey. A daunting cultural treat.

43. Go to the flower market. Get up early or stay out late to check out the colorful, bustling Pak Klong Talad.

44. Eat at Kai Tod Jae Gi. Otherwise known as Kai Tod Polo (137/1-2, Soi Polo, Lumpini Road, 02-655-8489), this place has some of the best fried chicken in town.

45. Laugh at the dancers at Suan Lum Night Bazaar. Not too loudly, though. They’re trying hard to start their careers in the music video industry.

46. Yell at chatty people in the theater. Others will thank you.

47. Drive a go-cart. The Fast and the Furious, right in RCA (PTT Speedway, 02-203-1205, www.kartingstadium.com. Open Mon-Thu 4pm-midnight; Fri 4pm-3am; Sat 1pm-3am; Sun 1pm-midnight).

48. Attend the festivals. Bangkok International Film Festival, Fat Festival, Bangkok Jazz Festival, Hoon Town...Bangkok has a lot of entertaining events, each with its own unique vibe.

49. Write a letter to the PM. He may not respond, but at least you’ll get a chance to vent. Write to Prime Minister’s Office, 1 Pitsanulok Rd., Dusit, Bangkok 10300.

50. Say hello to your neighbor.

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Master chefs gather under one roof for the World Gourmet Festival.

It’s all about good food and good wine at the 7th World Gourmet Festival. The food fiesta brings the world on a plate, importing 16 world-class chefs from five continents to whip up a tantalizing feast and host a cooking demonstration at the Four Seasons Hotel, Sep 10-17.

Food Hub

Wooing a small battalion of award-winning chefs to cook under one roof is no easy task, but for Four Seasons Food & Beverage Director Lubosh Barta, it’s getting easier and easier. “Now that the festival’s reputation has grown, we don’t have to explain as much about what we are doing. The festival itself attracts the chefs. Plus the participating chefs from past years are great references,” says Lubosh.

Among the active references is Michael Ginor, who has been with the festival since its inception. “I have helped recruit many of the chefs. It is an event that is very dear to my heart,” writes Michael in an email. “I love Thai people, culinary traditions and culture. I love learning about new ingredients and techniques. Thailand is probably my favorite culinary nation in the world.”

Australian chef Geoff Lindsay, The Age Good Food Guide’s 2005 Chef of the Year, agrees. “I can’t wait to feel the rush of Bangkok and to taste exquisite Thai food,”
he says.

Claims to Fame

Top chefs are gearing up to whet your appetite with their renowned signature dishes. If you love foie gras, book a dinner with Michael Ginor, whose Hudson Valley Foie Gras won the 1998 Award of Excellence from the American Tasting Institute. “I have a great passion for foie gras and have devoted my life to it,” Ginor says. “I still remember the first time I sampled foie gras. It was in a simple restaurant in Israel. I’ll never forget the essence of simplicity of its taste.”

Satisfying your carnivorous cravings, Peter Gordon, the executive chef and co-owner of The Providores in London, cooks up his New Zealand-inspired recipes that won him the 2003 Cateys Award for Newcomer of The Year. “I love to cook fish, seafood and fatty meats like pork and lamb. I also enjoy the discovery of new ingredients and try to find ways to incorporate them into my cuisine. For me, fusion is about a successful combination of ingredients,” says the New Zealand chef.

From Concha Y Toro, Chile comes Ruth Van Waerebeek, who is known for her new Latin cuisine. “I sort of reinvent traditional Chilean and South American dishes and play with exotic ingredients. I like to open a whole new world of sensations with Chilean flavors paired with the best wines.”

On the sweet side is 2004’s James Beard Foundation Pastry Chef of the Year, Emily Luchetti, who whips up fresh summer fruits into “desserts that are full of flavors without tasting too sweet.”

Forbidden Food

The only limit to what these amazing chefs can create is their own convictions. For example, Parisian pastry chef Vincent Bourdin is adamantly against using shark fins. “Sharks are very important in the sea kingdom. Shark fins don’t have taste by themselves, so I think it’s stupid to kill these animals.”

Other chefs have no restrictions. Chef Geoff claims he’s tried a bit of everything, “but there’re a few things I won’t need to eat again, like spiders and cockroaches in Cambodia.” Chef Michael concurs. “I had some critters in Thailand,” he says, but admits he couldn’t enjoy them, even after washing them down with Thai whisky.

Hitting the High Points

If you can’t afford every chef’s cooking, Lubosh recommends three particular things. “I’d definitely try chef Yoshii Ryuichi’s Japanese fare,” he says. “His restaurant (Yoshii on the Rocks) has earned a great reputation in Australia. The Moroccan cuisine is also new and exciting for me. For the ladies, there’s an interesting wine tasting class led by Robert Joseph (publishing editor of Wine International). It’s reserved for women only, so they would feel free to ask as many questions as they want.”

Those on tight budgets who would like to take part in this flavor extravaganza should consider investing B6,800 to book a seat at the special Gala Dinner on Sep 14, when every chef will be serving up their most brilliant dishes. It’s not just you who benefits from taking part in the event—parts of the proceeds will go to the Save a Child’s Life From AIDS project. For more information, call 02-250-1000 ext. 1517 or email [email protected].

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Though most people go out to see pretty faces or meet interesting people, enjoying art with a drink is not a bad idea either.

Foreign Correspondent’s Club of Thailand

Want to drink with journos? This is the place to do it. They also host rotating photo exhibits, mostly of the serious variety dealing with hard news stories. Can you handle that?
FCCT, Penthouse, Maneeya Center Bldg., 518/5 Ploenchit Rd., 02-652-0580/-1. Open daily 10am-11pm. www.fccthai.com.

Phranakorn Bar

This artsy venue featuring three floors and a rooftop bar not only boasts an art gallery showing the works of starving artists but is also priced for the young and skint. They have a good menu of drinks and Thai food. The music is a mix of Thai pop and jazz.
58/2 Soi Damnoenklang Tai, 02-622-0282. Open daily 6pm-1am.

Sripoom

Funky retro bar with cool furniture and eclectic music—no cheesy "El Nin Yo", no run-of-the-mill hip-hop. They also host cute painting and photo exhibitions.
95 Chakrapong Rd., Chanasongkram, 02-281-4445. Open daily 9pm-1am.

Traphic

A tiny bar with prices you haven’t seen in Bangkok in seven years. Paintings, photos, breakbeats, drum ’n’ bass—holy moly, this place is an intellectual traffic jam! Ah, so that’s where they got the name …
171 Tanao Rd., Phranakorn, 06-539-2510, 04-052-2723. Open Tue-Sun 4pm-1am.

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Where to warm up before the Thailand Open arrives.

On the day Major Walter Clopton Wingfield mixed court tennis, squash racquets and badminton together, the game we now know as tennis was born. Its popularity as a “gentleman’s sport” was first limited to Europe, but it soon spread to the rest of the world. From Sep 24 to Oct 1, the third ATP Thailand Open will bring some of today’s finest players to the City of Angels. Why settle for just watching (mostly) cute players battle it out on the court? Here are a few of the places you can jump in and try it yourself—may the best player win!

Thammasat University Sport Services Center (Gymnasium 7, 99 Moo 18, Paholyothin Rd., Pathumthani, 02-564-4425, www.tu.ac.th/org/sportcenter. Open Mon-Fri 4-9pm, Sat-Sun 8am-8pm) welcomes both members and non-members. The monthly membership fee of B350 allows you to use the courts free of charge, but if you want to try it out first, one hour will cost you B80 (B120 after 5pm). The gym has nine courts with lights provided. Booking 24 hours in advance is necessary, and if you’re new to tennis, there are also training courses available. Call 01-849-5496 for prices.

Chulalongkorn University Sport Center (Chulalongkorn University, Phyathai Rd., 02-218-2839, www.cusc.chula.ac.th. Open daily 7am-10pm) is another choice for hard court players. To use the court, you must be a member (membership is B1,000 per month or B5,000 per year). Play for free before 7pm; after that you’ll have to pay B40 for electricity. Booking an hour ahead is sufficient. Knock boards and racket rental services (B30 per hour) are also available.

Sports Authority of Thailand (Huamark, 02-318-0940 ext. 1265, 09-451-3749, www.sat.or.th/oldsat/03tennis1.asp. Open daily 6am-10pm) has 12 standard courts. For non-members, it’s B90 per hour (B140 after 6pm). If you’re a member (B375 per year), it’ll cost you B50 (B100 after 6pm). One month advance booking is a must. No equipment provided, but there’s an F.B.T. shop nearby. Also, a private training course is available at B300 per hour.

Sirisuk Tennis Court (2080/29 Soi 20, Narathivasratchanakarintra Rd., Yannawa, 02-286-4196, 02-286-7891. Open daily 7am-10pm) has five courts with lights that you can use without being a member. B100 per hour (B160 after 6pm). Personal coaching service is B280 per hour.

Trinity Fitness Center (Silom Soi 7, Silom Rd., 02-231-5333. Open Mon-Fri 7am-9pm, Sat-Sun 7am-8pm) offers tennis courts along with other fitness amenities including a pool, aerobic classes, a gymnasium and a jogging track. The membership fee is B15,900 per year and you’ll still have to pay B100 per hour (B150 after 6pm) for the court. Only one court is available, but on the bright side, they provide balls for free.

The Olympic Club (Pathumwan Princess Hotel, 444 8/F, MBK Center Bldg., Phyathai Rd., 02-216-3700 ext. 20805, www.theolympic-club.com/th/tennis.asp. Open Mon-Fri 6am-10pm, Sat-Sun 7am-9pm) has a package exclusively for tennis lovers. For B1,391, you can spend 10 hours on the court whenever you want within 3 months. It has two standard courts with lights, rackets and ball rental services, a professional coach (B150 per hour) and rackets (B161 per hour). For these services, booking must be made seven days in advance, and if needed, cancellation must be made before 9am on the day of your appointment.

Soi Klang Racquet Club (6,8 Amara 3, Soi Sukhumvit 49/9, Sukhumvit Rd.,
02-714-7200, 02-391-7980, http://rqclub.com. Open daily 6am-11pm) has two outdoor and three indoor courts. For non-members, the fee for all day use is B450 (B550 on weekends and holidays). Yearly membership costs B12,000 a year (but no more court fees). Knock board and professional coaches are also
available.

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BK explores Sam Phraeng’s best chows: part 1

The name Sam Phraeng may not ring a bell among the young and hip of Siam Square and Thong Lor, but this old neighborhood, including Phraeng Phuton, Phraeng Nara and Phraeng Sapphasat, is home to the city’s top eats, some of which you cannot find elsewhere. It’s a good place to revisit the old favorites.

Kai Yang Boran

474-476 Tanao Rd., 02-622-2349. Open daily 8am-9pm.
Located just a few steps from Chao Pau Seau Chinese Shrine is Kai Yang Boran. The restaurant is simply furnished with wooden tables closely spaced to accommodate as many people as possible. Despite its no-brainer décor, Kai Yang Boran has managed to attract lots of celebrity diners, whose photos cover the walls, with its full course Isaan feast.

The deal: The staff is quite friendly, but not so knowledgeable. From their accents, we guess most of them are Burmese. It’s no use asking for recommended dishes because the only answer is somtam. The best bet is what the restaurant is named after, kai yang (roasted chicken). The recipe is taken from Suphanburi, the owner’s hometown.

The price: Starts at B30 for somtam. The whole chicken is B160, half is B85.

40-Year-Old Raat Naa

514 Tanao Road, 02-622-1910 ext. 1, 05-169-6569. Open daily 9am-9:30pm.
As its name suggests, raat naa is the specialty at this eatery. Originally, the shop was in Samyan market but moved to its present location in the late 1990s. The grandpa’s recipe, however, has passed unchanged through generations for four decades.

The deal: The secret of 40-Year-Old Raat Naa, the sibling owners reveal, is the tender pork. Each day they have to prepare over 30 kilos to cater to the customers. Special attention is paid to make sure the pork is well soaked in a secret marinade overnight until it absorbs all the flavors. The menu is short and easy: Just choose sen yai, sen mee or mee krob. Pad see iew (stir-fried noodles with egg and meat), is also tasty and not oily at all.

The price: Raat naa with pork is B25, with seafood is B50. Pad see iew is B30.

Pa Thong Go Sawoei

540 Tanao Road, opposite Bangkok Bang, 02-222-2635. Open daily 5-10am, 5-10pm.

This take-away shop does one thing—pa thong go—and does it very well. The kind uncle has been sautéing the crispy Chinese pastry for over 50 years.

The deal: Crispy and airy, pa thong go, which has been recommended by food critic Mae Choi Nang Ram, takes center stage. It’s also a royal favorite. The uncle proudly reveals HRH Princesses Somsavali and Bajra Kittiyabha used to send bodyguards to buy his crusty fare, hence the word sawoei, a royal word for eating.

The price: B10/4 pieces, but opt for a set (B20-B40), which includes sangkhaya (Thai custard). It makes a nice breakfast. Pa thong go usually runs out very quickly, so go early.

Phraeng Nara Pork Balls

544 Tanao Road, 01-483-2347. Open daily 10am-10pm.

Right in the front of Phraeng Nara corner is Phraeng Nara Pork Balls. We don’t know anything much about this stall because vendor Khun Tookta is ever busy grilling. So the conversation kind of goes like this:
How many sticks you churn out each day?
“Don’t know. I don’t keep a record.”
How long have you been here?
“Can’t remember.”
Any secret recipes?
“No.”
So we’ll have two sticks then.
“Here. B10.”

The deal: It’s all about pork balls. Grilled hot on the spot, these pork balls are made entirely with pork, no starch or additives.

The price: B5/stick.

Khanom Bueang Boran

91 Phraeng Nara Road, 02-222-8500. Open daily 10am-6pm.

One of the oldest shops in the Sam Phraeng area, Khanom Bueang Boran is tucked in a soi opposite the Bangkok Bank. Auntie Somsri is long well known for her khanom bueang boran (original Thai crispy crepe), the recipe for which is from the kitchen of Prince Narathip Phraphanphong in the reign of King Rama 5.

The deal: There are two variants of the crispy crepes to choose from: The sweet filling includes foi thong (Thai dessert), raisins, sweetened diced squash and coconut, while the salty style appeals with savory minced shrimp. Unlike the modern version, traditional khanom bueang isn’t filled with cream, but is coated with a thin layer of Thai custard. To avoid disappointment, head there before 3pm.

The price: Prices range from B10-50, depending on size.

Ko Phanit

431-433 Tanao Road, 02-221-3554. Open Mon-Sat 6:30am-7pm.

Ko Phanit needs no introduction. It was founded in 1929 by Karb Chiebchalard, whose initial has become widely known as the symbol of one of the best sticky rice shops in town. However, the brain behind the renowned khaoniew moon is not Karb, but his wife Sarapee who adopted the cooking tips and tricks from her mother.

The deal: The take-away shop sells only sticky rice. but you can buy juicy mangoes at two hawkers nearby. Sticky rice is blended with sugar and coconut milk, which yield silky texture and smooth creamy taste. Goes great with Ko Phanit’s homemade sangkhaya.

The price: Sticky rice is B110/kilo. A bowl of sangkhaya is B30.

Nom Jo

441 Tanao Road, 09-788-6417, 01-4822377. Open Mon-Sat 10:30am-10pm.

Go straight from Ko Phanit and you’ll find Nom Jo. A few years ago, it was just a small cart attracting customers only with hot fresh milk and roasted bread, but now Nom Jo has expanded into a proper shop.

The deal: In addition to the all-time favorite khanom pang sangkhaya (bread topped with Thai custard), owner Jo just introduced two new toppings to go with roasted bread: chocolate with banana and corn soup. The menu also sees many hearty dishes from pork congee and Chinese dumplings to pork steak.

The price: Prices range from B6 for roasted bread to B65 for steak.

Classic Chows: Part 2

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Surfing through Pahurat in Bangkok’s Little India.

When I used to make costumes for my high school plays, there was just one place to find the best selection of fabric at bargain prices: Pahurat Market. And nothing has changed; Pahurat is still where the pros go, from amateur costume designers to expert tailors. It’s also part of the biggest Indian community in Bangkok, so you might expect it to be dominated by Indian-style merchandise. But Pahurat has everything from beautiful sari material to basic outfits, not to mention beaded sandals, costume jewelry and an awesome array of silk scarves.

Pahurat market is located on Pahurat Road between Chak Phet and Tri Phet Roads. Pahurat Road was constructed in 1898 in the era of King Chulalongkorn as a memorial for his young daughter, Princess Pahurat Maneemai, who passed away. Pahuarat later became a largely Sikh community and a hub of fabric trading, from basic curtain materials to haute couture textiles for evening gowns.

The first thing to do on arriving is fuel up for your shopping spree with a nice steak and a sweet, crispy roti, across the road from Poh Chang College. Then start wandering.

The first place that caught our eye was a small, modern wedding supply shop with a Siam Square look: clean white exterior, floor-to-ceiling windows and cute trinkets displayed inside. The attentive staff at Viriya (330-332 Pahurat Rd., 02-225-8284, www.idealoungegroup.com) can help you find everything you need for a perfect wedding, including invitation cards, customized wedding favors and gifts—and if they don’t have what you want, they’ll custom-make it. Idea Lounge, the company that owns the shop, also retails cards at Siam Paragon. Just few steps from Viriya you’ll find Gandhi (326 Pahurat Rd., 02-225-5997/5503, www.gandhi.co.th), a long-running fabric outlet offering a wide variety of products but with an upscale focus. That means imported lace, satin and silk. Though it has been operating since 1944, there’s no sign of aging—everything is new and clean, and a big plasma TV plays Chic Channel at all times.

If you’re ready to leave behind the main thoroughfares and enter the maze of alleys that make up the market, turn down any one toward the sewing and tailoring market (like a budget Savile Row), where many khun pas with sewing machines help you turn raw fabric into a custom-made outfit in minutes. These freelancers originally occupied Ming Muang Market across the street (where Old Siam Plaza now stands), but moved here when Ming Muang was demolished in 1978. As you continue along the alleys, you’ll find fabric, fabric and more fabric. The textiles these vendors sell are cheaper (both in price and quality) than the big boys outside. Take your time and compare prices—the deals are there.

At the center of this area lies Thailand’s first Sikh temple Gurudwara Sri Guru Singh Sabha (565 Chak Phet Rd., 02-224-8097/-8, 02-221-1011) with its eye-catching golden domes and traditional Sikh architecture unchanged since 1933. (To go inside, women must cover their hair.)

Even if you’ve been around Pahurat you may not realize that it has a mezzanine with a number of small shops and stalls. Take the escalator (a big plus) in the alley across from Central Wangburapa, and you’ll reach one of Pahurat’s best-kept secrets. Here you can find Indian gold and silver jewelry, accessories and interesting fabrics and accessories like fur and feathers, as well as pashminas—the same quality you’d get elsewhere in Bangkok for a third of the price. Watch out for roaming cats, they are everywhere!

This is also a great place to find some good food. Indian specialties such as maak waan (Aun Maak Waan, a street vendor near Sunny Video) are a must-try. If you want something sweet, try sweetened grilled cassava (B30) or grilled bananas (B10), or head to Kanom Taan Pahurat (B20, 05-145-9838. Open Tue-Sun 9am-5pm).

Most vendors in Pahurat Market shut down at 5pm or so, so it’s best to arrive earlier in the day. One of the best days is Monday, when there are no street vendors on the sidewalks.

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We uncover some of Singapore’s more badass full contact sports.

Despite its squeaky clean and safe image, Singapore’s passion for blood sports is growing. The local scene for full contact sports and martial arts has been active for decades and Singapore was thought of as the mecca for boxing in the region during the heyday of the sport—in the ’50s, ’60s and ’70s—when it was considered as popular as soccer. Now, with hit television shows like The Contender, The Ultimate Fighter and even World Wrestling Entertainment (and maybe the increasing frustrations of stress-filled lives and some of the world’s worst drivers) there has been a resurgence of interest in contact sports.

So, put up your dukes as we punch up some of the ways that you can learn to kick some serious butt.

Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu

It was after two Singaporeans were murdered in Sydney while he was studying there that Lee Shen Han, a 25-year-old banker, became convinced to take up Brazilian Jiu-jitsu (BJJ). Thankfully, he’s never had to use what he’s learned in an actual situation. Lee brought his friend Matthew Wan, a 25-year-old interior designer, along to some of his training sessions at Kreation Jujitsu, a dojo (school for training and self-defense art) that sports a total of around 30 members. Wan, who’s done several martial arts prior to BJJ, was interested, but found that his martial arts experiences got in the way when he relied on the styles he was more comfortable with. “If you start with a clean slate, you tend to take the instructions easier,” he says.

Needless to say, the pair has since earned themselves a fair share of injuries, including mat burns, sprains and, in Wan’s case, cauliflower ear, where his ear swelled because the side of his head was continuously ground into the mat. But it was through these bumps and bruises that they learned the most important trait you’ll need in BJJ: humility. “You really have to suck it up and let yourself get tapped out sometimes,” explains Lee. “If you keep using your attributes, you’re not going to learn anything. You’ve got to rely more on skill.”

BJJ began in 1910, when a former member of the headquarters of the Judo world, Matsuya Maeda, taught the art of Jujitsu to Brazilian businessman Gastão Gracie’s son Carlos who in turn, passed down the art to other members of his family. Through various modifications, BJJ was born.

The most prominent of these modifications is that, while Japanese Jujitsu focuses more on the sporting aspect, BJJ is more concerned with combat; instead of stances and style, BJJ deals more with grappling and take downs. Another obvious distinction as a result of the different styles is that, unlike its Japanese predecessor, BJJ also involves ground fighting ­—which is hand-to-hand combat while the contestants are physically on the ground.

Like a lot of martial arts, there’s a belt system in BJJ that determines how good you are. After around two years, both Wan and Lee are still on white, which is the first level. “Usually, how somebody is awarded with a blue belt is that, if you compete in enough, and consistently win, white belt competitions—your instructor awards you with a blue,” explains Lee. There are usually one or two such competitions a year locally, but quite a few regionally; taking place in countries like Thailand and the Philippines.

Locally, the sport’s popularity has been growing recently, so if you’re interested in taking up BJJ, Wan and Lee totally encourage it, but only if you bring along some attitude. “A positive attitude,” stresses Lee.

Fight Club: Kreation Jujitsu Budo Academy, 340B King George’s Ave., 9677-1737 (for instructor Kwek Kon Hui).

Mixed Martial Arts

Walk into the sweaty, old gym at Farrer Park where Mixed Martial Arts (MMA) training is conducted and the image is instantly one of a group of grunting Neanderthals hyped up on adrenalin and ready to tear each other apart at first glance.

Interestingly enough, nothing could be further from the truth. The class consists of a diverse mix of men and women and—in between their grueling training of grappling, punching bags and sparring—the group is like any other tight-knit bunch, shooting the breeze and talking about what’s up in their daily lives.

While the modern, Western evolution of MMA can be traced to the first family of BJJ, the Gracie family—when they organized a competition to see which fighting style would be most suited in realistic combat situation—MMA is hardly new, dating back supposedly to some of the earliest Olympic Games in Greece.

“It’s really a modern invention to do only one system and stay within that one system for your entire life,” explains Chris de Wet, a 35-year-old sports coach who teaches MMA classes. “It’s not a new phenomenon; it’s just that it’s become far more popular to the general public now.” Currently, de Wet has around 35 members who train with him on a regular basis.

MMA doesn’t employ a set mix of fighting styles, leaving it completely up to the individual fighter to come up with a combination that he or she is comfortable with. For instance, de Wet has trained in boxing, judo and karate, just to name a few.

Anyone who’s seen MMA in action during the Pride Fighting Championships—which are held predominantly in Japan—or America’s Ultimate Fighting Championships would know exactly why the sport was once called No Holds Barred. But while MMA certainly is a potentially dangerous sport (after all, which martial art isn’t?), the ferocity shouldn’t deter anyone interested in it. “Depending on the amount of effort and intensity that you put in, MMA can be a fun and exciting workout without too much in the way of bruising, or it could be a fight sport,” says de Wet.

MMA, however, is definitely not for dumb brutes. In fact, Gene Kwee, a 29-year-old project manager, likens it to chess. “After a while, you see the beauty of the game,” he elaborates. “The kind of possibilities—for every attack there’s a counter. And to that counter, there’s a counter.”

And because of the strategy and skill involved in MMA, women are put on a level playing field as guys, even if physically, they may not be on par. “Being female, scientifically speaking, you might not be as strong, but you can be better when it comes to technique,” says Sacha Tong, a 23-year-old sales and marketing executive. She had originally started off doing Muay Thai and wanted to try something a little more versatile.

Much like BJJ, MMA’s chief requirement is not to come in looking to show off. “It’s like what I tell all of them, ‘When you take off your shoes, you take off your ego,’” says Aaron Koh, a 26-year-old trainee teacher and MMA trainer. After all, while the rules may differ between certain MMA tournaments or gyms—some, for example, allow elbow strikes, while some don’t—there’s always a certain set of regulations that revolve chiefly around the aspect of safety.

But, at the end of the day, you’re going to have to come in expecting to get hurt. After all, Gene feels that’s part of the appeal of it all. “We live in a world where your mortality is seldom at threat,” he says. “It’s nice to feel pain once in a while.”

Fight Club: Contact Kinetics Farrer Park Gym, 3 Rutland Rd., email: [email protected] (attention emails to Chris de Wet).

Boxing

Kadir’s Boxing School may not look like much. Housed at the Singapore Martial Arts Instructors’ Association Training Grounds, the gym really doesn’t strike you as the grimy dungeon where the likes of Rocky would’ve trained.

But even Sly’s awe-inspiring champ’s got nothing on Syed Abdul Kadir, the owner and head coach at the school. If you were to talk about the local boxing scene, it’s impossible not to talk about Kadir. A former national coach and the first Singaporean to win a medal for boxing in the Commonwealth Games—picking up the bronze—Kadir had been involved in the sport since he was nine years old and hung up his gloves at the age of 26. But he’s still one of the most prominent players in Singapore’s boxing history, training countless enthusiasts. Currently, his school has around 400 students. “I’ve got a passion for it; I love it so much. Not because of the fighting —there’s beauty in the sport.”

Boxing is arguably the most popular full contact sport in the world. The basic rules are simple—two men strap on a pair of gloves and try to hit their opponents as many times as possible (above the belt, of course). Winners are either determined by scores awarded by judges or when one of the competitors is knocked out.

Ironically, it might very well be because of its popularity that the sport has earned some of the most scorn from medical professionals, due to the number of high-profile injuries sustained—most notably when one of the greats, Muhammad Ali, was diagnosed with Pugilistic Parkinson’s Syndrome from all those blows to the head he’d endured. “People who got hammered worse than Muhammad Ali didn’t get Parkinson’s!” argues Kadir. “If I was to say it’s not dangerous, I’d be lying. What you need to do is train hard, learn every aspect and reduce your chances of getting hurt."

If you’re not planning to make it a long-term career, the risks in boxing are certainly outweighed by the workout you’ll go through. “A lot of other sports do cross-training with boxing because we do a lot of endurance training,” says Kadir. Sessions consist of skipping, shadow boxing, sandbag punching, pad work, circuit training and sparring; a high-intensity workout that requires commitment to succeed.

If nothing else, boxing gives you confidence and ensures people are not going to want to mess with you. In addition, Kadir says, every boxer has a different technique and a different style, and that’s what makes them so effective in a rumble—should it ever come to that.

But the coach is very adamant in advising his students to stay out of fights as much as possible. “If you’re in a tight situation, run if you can—run away,” he always says.

Fight Club: Kadir’s Boxing Gym Singapore Martial Arts Instructors’ Association Training Grounds, 110 Mountbatten Rd., 9843-3009 (for coach Syed Abdul Kadir).

Muay Thai

Tham Boon Kit, a 29-year-old full-time sports trainer and founder of West Kickboxing and Martial Arts Dojo, will be the first to admit that he’s not a practitioner of pure Muay Thai. He has a background in karate and does bring a few elements of it to his practice, but considering that he’s been in several Muay Thai tournaments around the region, and won his very first competition, no one can doubt his love of the art. Currently, his classes, held in a cozy room at West Coast Recreation Centre, consist of a small group of around 10 students.

Thailand is a predominantly Buddhist country, and the religion does have ties to traditional Muay Thai. It was originally taught by Buddhist monks and even today, there are many fighters who practice a pre-match ritual dance with a sacred band worn around their arms and head.

Utilizing fist, shins, elbows, knees and feet to strike an opponent—as well as small amounts of stand-up grappling—Muay Thai competitions, like boxing, are score-based, with winners determined by a panel of judges. Points are awarded for the effectiveness of a move and not the variety or the number of hits you get in.

But out of the ring, just how effective is Muay Thai? As Tham will testify, it’s “very realistic and useful”, as he shyly confesses, he’s seen his fair share of action. The sport has earned itself a reputation for being pretty intense. Tham’s most recent injury was a broken nose cartilage when he took part in a tournament in Thailand in June.

But that doesn’t deter women from joining in the fun. “I feel that there’s no gender gap,” says Candy Ho, a 21-year old student at the National University of Singapore. Muay Thai isn’t even Ho’s first foray into martial arts, who has a background in karate as well. She joined the sport to try something new and build up her anaerobic system. “As a woman, all these martial arts strengthen me and give me a fighting spirit,” she proudly proclaims. Since joining Muay Thai, she’s sustained her own set of injuries. “I’ve had a lot of bruises and shin injuries. The guys’ shins are definitely harder!”

One of the reasons that Muay Thai’s been gaining popularity in Singapore recently could be attributed to kickboxing classes held in gyms. But while both certainly provide one heck of a workout, practicality is the most predominant aspect that sets Muay Thai apart. “Anyone can punch a bag hard. Distancing comes into play; and getting hit and being able to stay composed is important,” explains Tham.

Fight Club: West Kickboxing and Martial Arts Dojo #02-10B, West Coast Recreation Centre, 12 West Coast Walk, 9003-0269 (for instructor Tham Boon Kit).

Aikido

When Philip Lee, the 52-year-old chairman and chief instructor of Aikido Shinju-Kai speaks, it’s with inviting warmth and welcoming gestures. Yet, the moment training begins, those gestures quickly turn into swift maneuvers, as he subdues his students with lighting fast precision, tossing them to the ground like the proverbial rag doll.

Aikido involves using the opponents’ movement against them instead of blocking it. Rather than simply learning how to lay the smackdown on someone, aikido focuses on flexibility, finesse and even relaxation. In fact, Lee compares the martial art more to a graceful dance than to any other full contact sport out there.

Because of its non-aggressive nature, one of the most important things you learn in aikido is to attain a certain level of mental calm to understand your opponent’s attack and the best way to deal with it. “It’s just movement and how to plan with his force,” explains Lee. “We don’t block or fight against force. It’s not about clashing with the opponent; it’s about harmonizing. Aikido needs a lot of understanding.”

Yet, just because its one of the least aggressive martial arts out there, don’t think for a second that aikido isn’t as effective in fending off attacks in realistic situations. Just ask the Singapore Armed Forces’ Guards Units, the Police Academy, and even Singapore Airlines’ cabin crew—all of whom are trained in aikido.

The diversity shows in one class’ turn-out at Aikido Shinju-Kai, a small sample of the 3,000 members that this school boasts island-wide. While the majority of students are professionals or executives in their 20s and 30s, there are also a handful of retirees…and they handle themselves just as well as their younger counter-parts.

There are also a large number of women taking the class. Says Lim Cheen Cheen, “The appeal is more for the spiritual side and not just physical strength. Aikido really builds up your strength in character.” The 31-year-old enjoys aikido so much that she actually left her architectural job of three years to become a full time instructor for Aikido Shinju-Kai.

Regardless of age or gender, everyone can find something in aikido, whether as a form of self-defense, exercise or simply as a way to clear your mind from the daily grind’s clutter.

Fight Club: Aikido Shinju-Kai 3/F Martial Arts Hall, HomeTeam NS-JOM Clubhouse, 31 Ah Hood Rd., 6256-0111.

Knock Out

Although you won’t hear about them as much as other, “safer” activities, full contact sports have a strong, passionate and loyal following in Singapore. With so few events taking place locally—and our competitors usually having to travel around the region for competitons—now seems like a good time to bring back the glory days of these sports.

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