Lose weight and pick up some great bargains at the same time at Sampheng by Duangtawan Nilayon, photography by Watchara Srisirirungsimakul

One of the first proper commercial spaces in Bangkok, Sampheng was built when King Rama I gave permission to the Chinese to move from the Ta Tien area to Klong Wat Sam Pleum and Klong Wat Sampheng. Sampheng then became the biggest inland market in Phranakorn, and even now a huge variety of products is available there, bringing crowds to the venue every day.

Sampheng is known for quality goods at wholesale rates, which makes it worth suffering through sois in 35˚ heat. But don’t opt for A-grade diamonds or high-class jewelry: this is more a place for side-street shoppers. Half of the shops sell accessories, shoes, and bags; the other half sell groceries and fabrics. Wander among swarms of people on the road, and you’ll find countless stalls showing a startling variety of wares.

Surrounded by endless stalls of mobile masks and accessories there lies a little key chain stall (08-1373-1640. Open Tue-Sun 8am-7pm) on the footpath near Soi Palittaphon selling cute leather key fobs for only B25 (B90 for six pieces).

Walk about 100 meters further on and you will see a small alley within which you’ll be surprised to discover such an array of air-conditioned shops and plazas hiding in a space this tiny. Poo Priaw (Block A-30, Sam Peng Grand Plaza Bldg., 08-1566-1640. Open daily 8am-5:30pm) has different styles of earrings on offer at B120 for 12 pairs. Pachara Universal (1/F, Aim Chit Plaza, 290 Vanich Rd., 02-688-9288, 08-6988-8198. Open daily 7:30am-6pm) sells cartoon character slippers for B80, though you do have to buy at least three pairs. Deeper inside the alley are hundreds of fake bags and shoes, cheap necklaces, stationery and plastic bags. Buy very hip necklaces from Soyes (313 Soi Vanit 1, Ratchawong Rd., 08-5247-8489, 08-1815-4291. Open daily 8am-6pm): decorated with stones and ribbons, they go smoothly with smart designer clothes.

If you feel like revisiting your childhood, visit Thanapan Plastic in the middle of the soi (near Bangkok Bank Sampheng branch, 02-221-0466, 02-224-2284. Open daily 6am-6pm). This stall is covered with toys: model cars, plastic guns, monopoly sets, plastic cell phones, yoyos, fake Legos, balloons and all that fun kids’ stuff.

If your zigzagging to avoid trolleys, and people, and motorbikes (yes, they somehow make it into the narrow alleys) has left you in need of refreshment, you can grab a bottle of water at any of the nearby stalls. For sustinence, just cross the street you can feast on giant spring rolls (08-3822-9049. Open Tue-Sun 8am-7pm) for B20-30 per box. Look for the little old lady with her trolley opposite Kikuya; she’s been selling them for 32 years and claims her recipe is unrivalled.

If you still want to see more, try the soi opposite Kikuya where there are plenty more stalls. It’s a shortcut to Pahurat, and the products on sale (in addition to stuff you’ll find on the other side of the street) include wedding cards, wedding souvenirs, fabrics, buttons, and sewing equipment. Finally, for guys who want to impress their girlfriends (or gigs) on a low budget, don’t leave Sampheng without dropping by Tukkata (303 Soi Vanich 1, 02-622-5130/1. Open daily 6am-5pm). Here you can buy fluffy dolls from B25 to B1,500, depending on the size. And if you don’t like the idea of getting sweaty in Sampheng, order online at www.tukkata.com.

How to get there

Bus No: 1, 4, 25, 40, 85, 204, 172, 529
Express boat from Ratchawong pier
Ferry from Din Daeng pier

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This May Day, let’s raise a toast to all of the workers who have to deal with our crap by Duangtawan Nilayon, illustrations by Chatathorn Chakkanagorn

Sometimes it seems as if we’re surrounded by service that, as our former premier famously said of Thai Airways, sucks. Moronic waiters, bitchy flight attendants, sluggish tellers, corrupt cops, psychopathic taxi drivers—every one of us can come up with a long list of horror stories, which of course we enthusiastically share with everyone we know. As the saying goes, “A happy customer tells one or two people; an unhappy customer tells 10.”

But how often do we praise good service? And have you ever thought about what it would be like to work in their shoes? Just imagine being one of the service industry workers you run into every day: the cashier at the mini-mart, the bartender, the taxi driver, the person collecting tickets. How would you like to be blamed for things you have no control over, or asked to do things that could get you fired, or yelled at not for something you did but because the customer has had a bad day? Be honest: how would you like to serve you?

On the occasion of International Labor Day, May 1, we thought we’d speak with a few people who work in the service industry and let them tell us about their jobs—and what it’s like on the other side. They don’t all deserve our gratitude and appreciation—but a lot of them do.

Take These Jobs

Orawan, 20, has been a cashier at a Family Mart for a year, working part-time while she is studying. She has to do literally everything in the shop—mop the floors, stock the shelves, take care of customers and close the place at night—and for that she earns B24 per hour. That’s a whopping B120 for five hours of ding-dong! everytime someone walks in the door.

Choocheep, 31, has been a bus driver on the same route for 15 years. He starts at 4:30am. After that, depending on traffic, it could be four or five hours before he gets a break (i.e., use the bathroom), so patience is a crucial element in his daily life. In the face of this, though, he’s amazed how uncompassionate, and at times ignorant, passengers can be. “Sometimes when the traffic’s jammed, people will start complaining about it. That annoys me a lot, but I can’t do anything but tell them to be patient,” he says. “Try to understand that this is Bangkok. The traffic can be horrible.”
When asked about bad customers, Thongchai Saroj, a 31-year-old motorcycle taxi driver, gives a picture of how nasty some of us can be: “I’ve been doing this job for 10 years. Most of the customers are good, but some are pretty annoying, like people who refuse to put a helmet on even after I beg them to wear it.”

If caught carrying a passenger with no helmet, police charge him up to B200. Sometimes Thongchai gets stiffed outright. “The worst people are those who have me take them a long distance, and then they don’t pay. I can’t do anything about it. I can’t force them to pay, and going to the police is way too much trouble.”
Thongchai says that some of his friends race through red lights to get revenge on difficult passengers. He’d love to do the same, but, for his own safety, he just can’t. “If an accident happens, my life’s at risk, too. I can’t even tell you how hard it is to control my temper every time a car cuts me off.”

Tida Prasertsing serves drinks at the bar Taksura. She makes B200-300 per shift. A recent night is typical: “This one guy was really drunk and started yelling at the other customers in the bar. I tried to calm him down, but it didn’t work, so I had to ask him to leave. He insisted on staying, though and kept disturbing others. Finally, all the waiters had to throw him out.”

In Their Shoes

OK, no one said that life was easy, but there are things people in the service industry have to deal with that most of us don’t. Just think if you not only had to wear an ugly uniform, but pay for it, as well. (And don’t even think about getting your money back when you leave the company.) Imagine being a waiter and having to pay out of your own pocket because you misheard a customer’s order. Or how would you feel if none of that 10 percent “service charge” ever made it into your paycheck?

Customers can be downright nasty. Those who work in the service industry are at the “front line” of the companies they work for. Many times they’re forced to deal with situations that are beyond their control. It might be the kitchen’s fault that your dinner is slow, but you yell at the waitress. The operator on the helpline isn’t the person who disconnected your internet connection, but you slam the phone down while she’s apologizing anyway.

Buyer Beware

Ask anyone who has worked in a restaurant, and they’ll tell you how dangerous it can be to get on your waiter’s bad side. You can imagine the things that end up in the meals of hated customers, from gobs of spit to...well, take your pick. So there are practical and selfish reasons to be courteous and to tip generously.

In the US, restaurant workers have websites like badtipper.com where they compare notes on customers. Service industry employees in Thailand aren’t compiling blacklists yet, but there are sites like thaicabincrew.com, guidescenter.com and thailandhotelstaff.com, where workers swap stories, give advice and post salaries and monthly hotel service charges.

Service Goes Both Ways

Quality service is often being the bigger person and acting more mature, even if the customer is older. It takes patience, poise and being adept at the art of compromise.

According to Embrahim Hengpiya, who has spent seven years working as a hair stylist, “The heart of service is to please our customers and make them look good at the same time. Sometimes my customer wants a haircut that just won’t match.” Faced with such cases, Embrahim gently encourages him or her to choose a style that will better suit them. After many years in salons, he has witnessed all sorts of customers, from boring aunties to picky uni students. To deal with them, he has to be super-calm and make them realize he’s doing his best.

Flight attendant Chayanit Kritsirithanarat agrees. “The hardest thing is to not to lose your patience, to compromise, to be punctual and to be alert…. Good service has to come from your heart, making passengers feel at home. We have to treat them the way we want to be treated.”

This applies to both service people and customers. As customers, we can help make their lives easier by treating them with kindness. Say “thank you” when they do a good job. Be patient when you’re in a queue. Tip. Show your appreciation, and next time you pay your electricity bill or walk into a convenience store, you might get an extra smile or two.

We talk to the people in the business of serving other people and BK guides you through the delicate protocol of international tipping.

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Read and relax at the Double A Book Tower

Claiming to be a first for Thailand, the Double A Book Tower (previously known as Thailand Book Tower) (122 Sathorn Soi 12, North Sathorn Rd., 02-236-7575, 02-267-7171. Open daily 10am-9pm. BTS Surasak. www.thailandbooktower.com) is a nine-story building filled with different genres of books and multimedia. Just a short walk from Surasak BTS, the TBT joins the Thailand Creative and Design Center (TCDC) and TK Park as another educational resource in Bangkok—this one not requiring any membership fee to browse and enjoy their books, and being almost entirely devoted to the Thai language. Supported by Double A, Thailand’s well-known paper manufacturer, the venue gathers books from more than 400 publishers for bibliophiles to browse and buy.

Though unfinished, it already attracts book lovers of all ages. Its eighth floor, the staff insists, is soon to contain foreign books, though it’s currently empty. The food zone on the seventh floor, meanwhile, is still short of restaurants. However, apart from those areas awaiting construction, every floor is packed with quality Thai books and translations. A five percent discount is offered to TBT members, and there’s no joining fee; you just need to buy one item in the building to qualify for membership. Staff can help you find what you want, though there are also computer search engines on each floor.

The first floor is dedicated to bestsellers and new arrivals. There, you can sip a cup of coffee while you read in The Corner—the Tawaravadee Hotel’s cozy coffee shop. A post office is located at the back. The second to top floors are all divided into two sections: a TBT zone and a publisher zone. On the publisher’s side, popular book merchants will represent their catalogues, including Nanmee Books, Kled Thai, Bear Publishing, Suan Ngern Mee Ma and Matichon. In the TBT zone, each floor has its own theme. On the second floor are modern novels, collections of poems, short stories and literature.

The third floor is a living zone, where you can find books on music, travel, home décor, health care and sports. There are also magazines from Sarakadee, cookbooks from Sangdad and many pocket books from Nation Books. Up one floor is the “Kids’ Zone,” where plenty of fairytales appear and toys for infants. The fifth floor is the “Brain Zone,” which contains textbooks on computers, management, IT and law, in addition to dictionaries and reference materials. The sixth floor is the “Lively Zone,” targeted at teenagers and comic lovers, offering Japanese manga and teen love stories. For those inclined to more serious reading, Work Point publishing, Watta, and the Technology Promotion Association (Thailand-Japan) are also located here. Half of the seventh floor contains that still incomplete food center, while the other side is occupied by multimedia companies, such as Tiga, Teaching Toys, May Seven, Jit Jaggawan, Minor Education and Scholar. On the top floor is an area devoted to conferences, workshops and events, with 600 square meters divided into meeting and seminar rooms.

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Five cameras that will survive Songkran

Sony Marine Pack for DSC N-2 MPK-NA. Water-resistant up to 40 meters. Perfect for both diving and waterfights. B9,990.

This Olympus Mju 725 SW is tougher than it looks. Shockproof to 1.5 meters, waterproof to 5 meters (40 meters with PT-033 underwater case) and a cool 7.1 million pixels. B16,990.

DMW-MCFX01, Panasonic Marine Case for Lumix DMC TZ1. Water-resistant to 40 meters. B9,890.

Snap away, but be quick, with the Pentax Optio W20. Water-resistant to 1.5 meters for up to 30 minutes. B13,990.

The one and only Lomo underwater camera, Frogeye. Unlike the others, it’s not digital. Works with 35mm (normal) film and AAA batteries. Highly recommended for outdoor shots. If you love over-exposed pics, try using slide film, then ask a photo lab to cross-process your photos. B3,900.

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Save Suan Lum Night Bazaar!

The Suan Lum Night Bazaar is closing down. It may not be this week, as it was originally scheduled; it may even not be this year. But the deal is done and all signs point to another mega-development featuring a shopping mall and a mixture of residential and office space. If it’s a done deal, you may ask, why are we whining about it? Besides, it’s just a beer garden and a few crappy little shops selling junk to tourists, after all. And it’s certainly the right of the owners and developers to do what they want within the boundaries of the law in order to make a profit—so if the market demands more malls and skyscrapers, we’ll get more malls and skyscrapers. That’s how capitalism works.

We accept all this. And we have nothing against the developer or any other party involved in this project. But we think the demise of the Night Bazaar is a bigger loss than most people realize.

How Bazaar

A “bazaar,” which comes from an ancient Persian word, “wazaar,” was a typical market where merchants and customers met—specifically spice traders in the beginning, but the scope of commerce expanded to include things like books, food, secondhand items and, most importantly, crafts: bazaars have been traditionally known as places where local knowledge is shared and creativity thrives.

“Our” bazaar—Suan Lum Night Bazaar—is supposedly Bangkok’s first. (That’s what it says on the sign, anyway.) Opened in 2002, the 120 rai area contains roughly 3,700 shops, common areas (including the beer garden with its retractable roof) and restaurants.

The first wave of vendors struggled, but the number of visitors—including a much higher percentage of Thais than originally forecast—has steadily grown and business is good thanks to daily operation, ideal location and rental fees that are cheaper than shopping malls.

Why Should We Care?

Is the Suan Lum Night Bazaar the greatest place in Bangkok? The coolest? Hippest? Most stylish? Most fun? Of course not. And we should admit for the record that when plans were unveiled to turn the former military school into a commercial development, we were strongly against it. We felt that the land could be better used for the public good. Why not a park (or an extension of Lumpini Park), a community center, a museum, athletic facilities—or all of these things?

Nearly six years later, however, we’ve come to accept—and appreciate—what it has to offer: choice.

The shopping area has grown into a neat alternative to Chatuchak Weekend Market—JJ on any day of the week and without the heat and the smell. At Suan Lum, you can find handicrafts, clothes and other items and reasonable prices. Many of the stalls are run by artists and designers, who couldn’t afford a space at Chatuchak.
In the cavernous beer garden, the food and drink is reasonably priced, and some of it is even edible. (Don’t get us started on the beer pretties.) The lip-synching and dancing onstage sometimes borders on the ridiculous, but there are plenty of seats on the opposite end of the stage if the entertainment is not your thing. They also use the hall to show sporting events, like big football matches, and it can be quite a party atmosphere. Then there is BEC-Tero Hall, which is the only facility of its kind in the inner city that can handle concerts by international artists, sporting events and the like.

There are also international restaurants, pet stores, a great coffee shop in Doi Tung and that French Ferris wheel.

Community and Creativity

The Night Bazaar is a commercial enterprise, but it’s not necessary to spend money there. Even though it’s a private space, members of the public are free to just hang out. So while it’s not as intellectually stimulating as say, TCDC, nor is it anywhere close to the ideal (like a community center), the Night Bazaar is an alternative in a city where going for a stroll on the sidewalk in the evening with your family or friends is not an option.

It’s not just visitors who benefit from Suan Lum Night Bazaar. It also offers opportunities for the people who do business there, thanks in large part to its affordable retail space. Despite all the talk about nurturing young talent—artists, designers, craftsmen, entrepreneurs—only a small percentage are able to pursue their dreams. The Night Bazaar gives them a chance to display their wares and hopefully make a decent living.

The Night Bazaar is a place where you can see the principle of self-sufficiency in action. Here people of all ages, from teenagers to grandparents, have the opportunity to learn how to run a business, which has probably kept more than a few borderline kids off the streets.

Many of the shop owners are like Nok at Buasa (Ayudhya Soi 6, 02-380-4999), who is a university student during the day and a businesswoman at night. “It’s one of the few things I can do to get pocket money while still having enough time to study,” she says. “Plus, it’s fun,” adds Ae, 4th year student at ABAC who works in a CD shop on Ayudhya Soi 3 (08-7994-5295).

More Malls, Less Parks

So what do we have against shopping malls, condos and office towers? They’re not necessarily bad: more malls means more convenience for us as consumers. But when a mega project is built on one of the increasingly rare open spaces in the city, it decreases the chances that Bangkok will see another park, a playgrounds for kids, an art gallery or a community center. And the less we have, the less we realize what we’re missing—to the point that we don’t even consider the options.

It’s not so much Suan Lum Night Bazaar that needs saving: maybe what needs saving—or changing—are our priorities as a society and our ability and willingness as individuals to influence public policy. Does Bangkok really need another shopping mall?

Do Something!

It’s too late for Suan Lum Night Bazaar, but it’s not too late for us to make a difference. One example is the ongoing Bangkok Art and Culture Center project at Pathumwan junction. Eight years after it was approved in 1996, nothing had been done. So in 2004, a coalition consisting of the We Think group, Gen Art group, Makhampom Alliance, Bangkok Civic group and others came together to “remind” authorities of their promises. They organized art exhibitions, short film screenings and seminars to demonstrate their will. Thanks to their dedication, we will see at least part of this 11-story creative space completed in June.

If you have an idea or a cause that isn’t getting the attention it deserves, gather the names and signatures of 50 people who agree with you and send them to the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration (173 Dinsor Rd.) Follow up by calling them at 1555.

Or organize a seminar, write an article, invite members of the press to an event, set up a comment box somewhere in public.

When Will It Close?

In 2001, the lease of the 120 rai plot of land that was formerly a military academy owned by the Crown Property Bureau is given to P. Con Development (Thai). On these sprawling grounds, ideally situated at the corner of Wireless Road and Rama IV, they are to develop a new marketplace for Bangkokians, Suan Lum Night Bazaar.
 
P. Con’s lease is scheduled to end March, 2006 but, on that date, the Crown Property Bureau extends the lease to March 31, 2007.

The new leaseholder is as of April 1, 2007, Central Pattana PLC, one of Thailand’s biggest and most successful developers. The company hasn’t officially revealed its plans for the property, but most people believe it will build a shopping complex and residential and office buildings.

The Crown Property Bureau argues that a full year extension has already been given for the sake of vendors who had invested in shops and other businesses but that the leasing contract formerly held by P Con Development (Thai) Ltd. expired last year. Current vendors have been told they must vacate the premises by March 31.
 
P Con Development is continuing its fight in court and representatives of the company say that the Night Bazaar will not close on March 31 because the court has not ruled yet. P. Con Development is arguing in court that the new space in the back of Big C Ratchaprasong—which the Crown Property Bureau promised to prepare for Suan Lum retailers to move in—is not ready for them to use.

BK talks to various people on their thoughts about the closing of Suan Lum Night Bazaar and take a look at 10 other places we will be sad to see go.

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Anant Lerpradit is currently news editor of the Judprakai section of Krungthep Turakij, lecturer at Silpakorn University and Gen-X Academy, columnist and editor of quarterly jazz magazine Jazz Life, and author of Jazz: Issarapab Thang Dontree Khong Manudsayachad (Jazz: Mankind’s Musical Freedom), Jazz Guitarist and 100 Jazz Album Reviews.

The main purpose of Jazz Life magazine is to serve Thai jazz listeners.

Jazz has become more popular but knowledge of its history is still limited because a lot of people can’t read English. When Jazz Seen magazine stopped, my friends and I decided Thailand really needed a Thai language magazine on jazz.

I listen to a wide range of music, from morlam to classical Thai. I listen to everything as long as it’s good. I’m a fan of Dreamtheater, Pornsak Songsang, and Buddha Bless.

But jazz is more contemporary. To me, jazz is like a theory that has more tricks to it than the others.

Jazz is like a language. It emphasizes each musician’s individuality. During solos, the musician’s signature can clearly appear and listeners can tell immediately who’s playing.

Jazz is all about live performance. The same song performed twice will never sound the same.

Our society lacks sources of knowledge written in Thai. Not only knowledge of jazz history, but in many other fields as well. Compare us to Japan, where you can read everything you want in Japanese.

I want to help out making things available in Thai, but I can’t do everything, so I chose the topic I love most—jazz.

There should be cultural management courses at undergrad levels, not just at masters as it is now. Music is not a commodity product. Know-how and appreciation need to be taught to students.

I went to the third Java Jazz Festival in Indonesia. Bangkok Jazz is in its fourth year—but we are in kindergarten compared to them.

Hong Kong’s art festivals have been of excellent quality for over 30 years, and they are in the heart of the city. But we don’t have that.

I think Thai audiences are now waiting for a chance to see some impressive live performances, but wealthy people, the government and the private sector don’t support this as much as they should.

We need more venues. Right now, the Thailand Cultural Center schedule is full all the way to the end of the year. We don’t have other places to organize good concerts, so we have to have them in malls.

Suppose that I’m an indie artist who wants a space for 500 people, what do I do? Where can I play? We have a lot of space in Bangkok, but it has all been turned into malls.

Concerts shouldn’t be seen only as a show. There should be workshops, exhibitions…

As a critic, I play the guitar sometimes. Not to create new songs, but to analyze them. To be a good critic, you have to like what you criticize first. Then some basic understanding of what you critique is required. You should know the range of different types of instruments and understand how they work.

I’m glad that the young generation is more deeply involved with music. But when you listen to hip hop, you should know of its roots, its origins. When you love something, and want to know about it, you need to dig into its history.

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Eat fruit, not fries

Not exactly known for their healthy eating habits, last year Americans began waging war against an unhealthy enemy: trans fat. Fast-food franchises KFC and Wendy’s will only use trans fat-free oil in their restaurants in the US, and Starbucks has been phasing out the use of trans fats in its coffee shops. And New York City became the first city to ban the use of trans fats—starting with trans fat in frying oil in July and then one year later NYC restaurants will be required to be completely free of trans fat.

Good Fat, Bad Fat

There are many types of fat in the food that we eat. Some are good, and some can be dangerous. Trans fat is one of the dangerous ones. A small amount of trans fat can be found naturally in animal-based food, such as meat or milk. But the trans fat we’re talking about is liquid oil that has been made solid by adding hydrogen, as in the case of shortening and margarine. The use of trans fats prolong a product’s shelf life. Trans fats are commonly found in processed snack foods like crackers, cookies, cakes and deep-fried foods.

What Trans-Fat Will Do to You

Trans-fat increases lipoprotein (a.k.a. LDL or bad cholesterol), tyglycerides and insulin levels, while it decreases HDL (good) cholesterol in your body. According to many studies, large amounts of trans-fat increase your chances and severity of coronary heart disease, heart attacks and diabetes.

Avoiding Trans-Fat

Most industrially-processed foods are huge sources of trans-fat. In some countries, food labels will warn you when a product contains trans fat. Consumers should also look out for: “hydrogenated vegetable oil,” “partially hydrogenated vegetable oil” or “shortening.” Unfortunately in Thailand, the law does not require such detailed labels.
With the help of Nantaya Jongjaithet, a medical nutritionist from the Nutrition Division of the Ministry of Public Health, we came up with a few suggestions.

Avoid:

• Margarine
• Mass-produced cakes, cookies, crackers, pies, bread
• Deep-fried food (there are 3.5g of trans fat in a small portion of McDonald’s french fries), potato chips
• Creamy salad dressing
• Instant noodles (most contain trans fat)
“Bad” Oils like coconut, palm

Stick to:

• Vegetables and fruits
• Grilled and stir-fried food
• Noodles and soups (but not instant noodles)
“Good” Oils like corn, soybean, sunflower, olive, canola
 

More Ways to Die Eating


Water

Just when you think you’re drinking the healthiest thing in the world, you could be slowly draining yourself of minerals. According to some researchers, water purified by reverse osmosis (those water machines near condos and mini-marts) is too pure, and to have a devastating leeching effect.

It’s also possible to die from drinking too much water. This happened to a woman in the US following a water-drinking contest.

Salt

Too much salt can cause high blood pressure. High blood pressure can cause heart disease, strokes or kidney disease. Pass me pepper, please.

E. Coli

Most people don’t realize how important it is that restaurant workers wash their hands after going to the toilet. E. coli (a bacteria found in human feces) can cause urinary tract infections, meningitis, peritonitis, mastitis, septicemia and gram-negative pneumonia—people die from eating contaminated food every year.

MSG

This one won’t kill you but some bored researchers in Tokyo shot up rats with MSG and they went blind. Wow, we knew it gives some people headaches (which others argue is purely psychological) but we’re happy to have a new excuse to fight the chefs’ angel dust.

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A brand new room is only a thin piece of wallpaper away

Tools of the Trade

Nothing too fancy, just a few essentials.
1. Special glue for wallpaper (around B100 per bag). Available at hardware stores.
2. 4” roller. (B46.) Available at HomePro.
3. Wallpaper (of course).

How to Put It Up

1) Measure your wall. See what size wallpaper you need. In this case, we used a paperback 52cm sheet from Cole & Son.

2) Mix the glue with water—seven liters of water per bag of glue. Don’t use pang piek (a glue that is made from tapioca flour). It won’t stick.

3) Apply the glue to the wall. (Don’t put it on your wallpaper directly.)

4) Then put the wallpaper up. Don’t worry if it’s not perfectly in place at first. You can move it for an hour or so before the glue starts to dry.

5) Use a roller to get rid of unwanted bubbles.

6) If you want to use two different patterns on the same wall, make sure that the second pattern overlaps on the edge of the first one.

Hot Tips

Here are a few secrets from Chananun Theeravanvilai, a design director of Chime Design Limited.

1. There are two types of wallpaper: paperback and vinyl. Both of them are easy to install, but paperback style is more popular. However, vinyl wallpaper is easier to clean and good for a 70s style décor.

2. Clean the wall before installing the wallpaper. Only a smooth surface can guarantee a satisfying result.

3. Don’t apply wallpaper with a dazzling pattern in the entire room, especially in your bedroom, where it will surely make you dizzy.

Where to Buy

Habitat (4/F, Siam Discovery, 989 Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-0400. www.habitat-thailand.com). Habitat is a well-known chain of London furniture shops. Fill your empty home with their stylish furniture and design products, including their latest collection of Cole & Son wallpaper. From photo frames to kitchen tools, teddy bears to beds and bed sheets, the range is classy and of assured quality. Just make sure you’ve got a fat wallet.

Mr. Curtain (16 New Rama 9 Rd., Suan Luang, 02-789-3000. www.mrcurtain.co.th). As famous for curtains as its name suggests, Mr. Curtain is also an expert on wallpaper, offering over a thousand designs for you to choose from. Free installation service by a professional team.

Pamanthai (2423 Lad Phrao Rd., between Soi 67/2 and Soi 69, 02-538-1080, 02-538-9587. www.pamanthai.com) has curtains, sun-blinds, bamboo screens and wallpaper on offer. Both imported and domestic goods are available in many styles, including old-fashioned but elegant Thai designs. Delivery service.

Nattanan Design (21/108 Klongjan Villa 4, Ramkhamhaeng Rd., 02-728-1594, 02-731-4467 www,nattanandesign.com) sells carpets, curtains and wallpaper. Installation service is available both in Bangkok and out of town.

Or if you’re not in the mood for spending an entire day in search of the perfect match, visit HomePro or Homeworks where you’ll find everything you need for home decoration.

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A closer look at three PDAs with full keyboards

Dopod C800

The Story: Designed to be handy, this pocket PC is an improved version of Dopod 838 and 30 percent smaller. Runs on Windows Mobile 5.0 OS, and has many features for personal data organization: calendar showing appointments by day, week, month and year, as well as a sync function with your PC.

The Good: Touch screen automatically changes to horizontal view when sliding out the keyboard. Wifi and Bluetooth enabled. The only phone with a cute little blue light that shows when caps lock is on.

The Bad: Navigate buttons are chromium, so they’re easily bruised if you’re not careful. So-so camera: though you can adjust white balance, contrast and picture sharpness, the 2.0 megapixel CMOS camera has a fixed focus (no autofocus) and no flash. No built-in FM radio, no infrared and doesn’t support 3G technology (that enables you to access your email, instant messenger programs and start video conferences).

The Price: B30,900.

O2 Xda Zinc

The Story: The latest pocket PC from O2 comes with its sliding Qwerty keyboard specially designed for SMS addicts. It keeps you updated all the time with wireless LAN, Bluetooth and infrared capabilities. Using a 520 MHz Intel processor, it may not be the fastest, but it can still cope with graphic-heavy games.

The Good: The highlight of this one would be 3G technology that suits people who travel often and have a chance to use video conferencing. Most programs attached are O2 standard programs: O2 Auto Configurator enables automatic connection so that you don’t have to set GPRS (General Packet Radio Service) by yourself, O2 Phone Plus makes smart dialing and can block unwanted calls easily. It also comes with a Thai language CD so you can do it all in the mother tongue. Camera has
2-megapixel resolution.

The Bad: Compared to Dopod, the Xda Zinc is slightly thicker and a bit heavier, but it looks more classic with its dark grey body. It’s made of plastic and a bit too light and doesn’t seem as sturdy as the others.

The Price: B29,900

HP iPAQ hw6515

The Story: Best for those who always get lost on the road: its GPS (Global Positioning System) technology promises to guide you to wherever you want to be. Just open their SmartNav program, locate where you are, select your destination, then the program will show you the shortest route. It comes with a plastic cover to protect the screen, so you don’t have to worry about stains or scratches.

The Good: Unlike the Dopod and O2 devices, the HP’s keyboard does not slide out; however, it comes equipped with a special button that works like a mouse’s right click and makes the keyboard easy to use. Also, a Smart Dictionary is provided that is really helpful when you’re writing SMS in Thai. Two SD slots.

The Bad: The phone is almost perfect if you don’t mind the distorted screen shape, which is quite strange compared to other pocket PCs. No wifi support here and you can’t use an MP3 file as a calling melody. Photos from the camera are fine, but only 1.3-megapixel resolution. No 3G support. Also uses Windows Mobile 2003 OS, which is a bit outdated—others are now on Windows Mobile 5.

The Price: B19,900

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The trends from five fashion capitals come alive in clothes by Thai designers

For the Spring shopping season, we advise you to ditch your expensive farang friends—you know, Vivienne, Marc, Christian and Chloe. Bangkok may not be an international fashion hub, but we still have enough talented local designers to dress you up in outfits that echo the trends in Shanghai, Milan, New York, Paris and London—and for much, much less.

Shanghai Splashes

Yaowarat Neon Chic is the local equivalent of the hot look in Shanghai right now—more colors, more patterns—which has been perfected by Shanghai Tang.

For Her: Her canvas-inspired dress from The Garten (B2,580) matches nicely with this pair of green ballet flats from ASAP (B1,950).

For Him: His dark outfit by Channel One (shirt, B890) and Inspired By Inner Complexity (pants, B2,690) is simple yet with embroided highlights on the back.
For all the a-tis out there who are looking for something cool for your night out, this multi-colored shirt from Grand G (B990) is for you. You can also give it a boost with pale denim jacket from Inspired By Inner Complexity (B3,680).

Daring Milan

Milan is almost synonymous with the word style, and this Summer, style translates into daring bold colors—primaries like red, yellow and blue. For inspiration, see brands such as Prada and Gucci.

For Her: The bright red bow on this shirtdress from Monoya (B690) will bring you all the attention you desire.

If you are not quite that bold and daring, pair this red patterned top from Senada (B2,150) with something a little lighter like this pale pink denim skirt from CPS (B1,290).

For Him: He is better off going for subtlety. Heavy brown straight-line patterned shirts from Grand G (B890) and simple denim from Be 70’s (B1,890) work magic to bring across a classy yet casual look.

Breezy Blue Big Apple

New Yorkers are always on the move, so they need comfortable clothes as opposed to tight-fitting or tailored. Look to DKNY and Marc Jacobs for jeans and loose-fitting items; summer colors include beige and grayish blue.

For Her: A gray sleeveless number from Senada (B3,250) for daytime. At night, roam the city in a blue velvet dress by Senada (B5,900).

For Him: Below, contrasting white (B1,590) on black jeans (B2,490) from CPS. On the cover, matching tones (shirt from ASAP, B2,490; jacket from CPS, B2,290) for a sophisticated urban look.

 

Glamorous Paris

In the city of glam and haute couture, shimmers, glitters, and sequins are all the rage. If you’re not ready to walk the sois of Bangkok in your futuristic Jean Paul Gaultier ensemble, the easiest way to highlight your inner Parisian is to just blend in some of the glittery pieces with simple colors.

For Her: At right, this dress by Munchu’s (B7,500+) keeps things under control with a white body highlighted by sparkly braided straps.
On top, a Duet turtle neck mini dress (B3,290) twinkles just right.

For Him: Contrasting blue black velvet ASAP jacket (B5,600) and white shirt by Duet (B1,950) and jeans by CPS (B2,290).

 

Classic Chic London

London is all about the classic, sophisticated look courtesy of Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen: think tailored (or at least tailored look-alike) and monotones and browns. Tone down your snobbish style with buttons and bows. 

For Her: The Sretsis ensemble (top, B6,500; bottom, B4,950) makes classic chic a little more playful. Add the leather tote from CPS (B2,990) to complete the look.

Side, blouse by Munchu’s (B4,000+) is very khun noo, so balance it with masculine shorts from Senada (B2,190).

For Him: This elegant combination of earth tones and white show that casual does not mean sloppy—white jacket by Channel One (B2,590), shirt from Grand G (B890) and pants by Inspired By Inner Complexity (B2,690). 

Opening This Summer: Adjust your look as the seasons change

Wide legged jeans
That’s right: wide. Mind you, baggy and wide are not synonymous. Wide but straight and not too loose.

Platform Shoes
Platform shoes are much easier to walk in than noise-making stilettos while still adding extra height. Don’t go too high, though, as you are not working the poles.

Metallic/Futuristic
Shimmers and glitters shine in the sun and help you get the attention you crave. Mix and match with simple base colors to balance out the bling.

Mini dresses
Mini dresses are comfy, cute and help bring out your girly side, plus you can convert them into long tops with a pair of slim pants.

Floral prints
Bloom up your outfit for the urban beach look. Beware though, too many flowers can be a disaster—one focal floral piece per outfit, please.

Headgear
Scarves, hats and sunglasses can brighten up a boring outfit in a snap.

Show your legs
If you’ve got it, flaunt it—but only if you’ve really got it. That means legs but not cellulite or flabby ass cheeks. If you have big thighs, showing only your lower legs will do.

Nude Makeup
You don’t want your face stealing the spotlight from your summer outfit. Au naturale is the way to go. Reserve the bold red lips for the fall and winter when everything is dark and gloomy.

Fashion Police: Don’t let us catch you making these mistakes

Hip Hop ain’t no HAUTE
We’re in Bangkok: you don’t need sweaters and blings, and you definitely don’t need the pants anymore if you’re gonna wear them that low.

Slut Couture
It’s “show your legs,” not your ass. Unless it’s making you money, if you’re going to wear something short, don’t pair it with a revealing top or super high stilettos.

Under not Outer
For low-rise pants, you should wear even lower rise underwear. See the word “under”?

Branded Bimbos
It’s good to glam up your B299 dress from JJ with an Hermes bag. But if your sunglasses are Armani, your top Burberry, your pants D+G, and your bag LV, that’s just too much. You may have money, but showing it off like this just makes you look cheap.

Khaosan Chic
OK for backpackers who don’t know any better but reserve those torn up military shorts, raggy tops and flip flops for the beach or short trips to your neighborhood 7-Eleven.

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