“Young people these days!” moans a 40-something boss who is looking for new staff. “Half of the applicants don’t even show up for their interviews. Those that do show up are spoiled brats: They don’t want to start at the bottom—they just want to do the ‘fun stuff.’ When you offer one a job, the kid decides he doesn’t want it anymore. Or asks if he can work part-time. Or accepts the job but doesn’t show up the first day of work.

“No discipline. They come in late, then take two-hour lunches. No manners. Answering, and even making, mobile phone calls during meetings. They can’t hear you because they’re all listening to iPods—not that they would listen to you anyway... They work six months and expect a promotion. And even if they get one, chances are they’ll get bored and leave within a year to be a ‘freelancer.’ Every kid is a damn freelancer these days! Who do they think they are, anyway?!”

Old fart, meet Generation Y.

Originally coined by Americans to describe those born during the ‘80s and ‘90s, Generation Y has also been called the “entitlement generation.” They grew up during prosperous times, without the threat of war tainting their rosy outlooks, and were pampered by their Baby Boomer (see “In My Day…”) parents, who wanted their kids to have it easier than they did. Gen Ys have had greater opportunities for education and employment than previous generations; they’re smarter, healthier, better-educated and more worldly—and they know it.

Generation Why?

Thailand’s Generation Ys were born when life was easy and peaceful. They weren’t there to witness October 14, and too young to comprehend Black May. They have maids to cook and clean for them and they drive their own cars (paid for by their parents). They are masters of the internet, cable TV, mobile phones and PDAs. They can obtain any sort of information quickly and easily—and they expect the same level of instant gratification in every aspect of their lives.

From Moderndog’s alternative rock in 1994 and filmmaker Pen-Ek Ratanarueng’s Fun Bar Karaoke and 6ixtynin9 in 1997 and 1999 to Fat Radio and A Day Magazine in 2000, Generation Y has grown up “indie” in music, film, art and literature. This movement celebrates the individual, telling young people that everyone is special in their own way. Big and mass-market are out, small and chic are in. They have moved from being jiggo to dek alter to dek indie to today’s dek naew. They can finally break away from conformity, if they so choose. More and more, to be cool means to live and think “out of the box.”

Young adults now entering the workplace haven’t had to struggle and don’t understand the logic behind so many of the methods and rules their parents were bound to. Though their goals may be similar to those of previous generations, they reach them in their own way. They know what they want, and they believe—some would say naively—that they can easily get it, so there’s plenty of time for play.

Y in the Workplace

But are Gen Ys really the spoiled brats with short attention spans the 40-something boss believes them to be? It’s easy to see how they are perceived this way, given the response time they’ve become accustomed to. They call to order pizza, and it arrives at their door within 30 minutes. Relationships are as easy as pressing the “Add as Friend” button on their MySpace accounts. Finding out what everyone is doing for the night requires no more effort than sending a couple of SMS messages from their mobile phones—no matter where in the world their friends live. Any form of music or entertainment they desire is just a few clicks away on iTunes or BitTorrent. The notion of sending a letter and (big sigh) waiting for a response is ridiculous to Gen Ys. And with the same speed they are used to getting things, they get bored—so it doesn’t come as much of a surprise that they change not just their mobiles and cars like underwear, but also their jobs.

Boy, 29, is a freelance graphic designer who complains, “I’m bored of office work. It always chains me up.” Adds freelance photographer Chane, 32: “I’d rather spend my time in a bookshop than sitting at a desk.” Chatchawan, 26, another graphic designer says, “I like the freedom. I don’t like having a boss watching over me all the time. You just do the job and make sure it’s done properly.” These types of attitudes have caused more than a little tension in offices.

“I’ve talked to many business operators, and they all agree that the social trend has changed. Kids nowadays change jobs more often,” says Deputy Dean Chaisansook from Ramkhamhaeng University. Gen Ys can simply surf the net to find employment opportunities. “People in my generation didn’t have such access to information, so we had to stay in jobs we didn’t necessarily like,” he explains.

Duke, an art director, receives CV after CV from people who average one year per job. When questioned about the high rate of job turnover, the applicants usually explain that they had mastered the work and were ready to move on. She doesn’t buy it.

“It’s possible that one year on the job can make them realize whether they like it or not, but it’s hardly possible to learn everything and to be really skillful at it in one year,” she argues. Duke has worked for the same employer for five years and has moved from junior staff to a managerial position. She believes in loyalty—and patience.

Gen Ys may be better-educated, book-smart and know about more things on a broader scale, but compared to people who have worked and grown with a company for several years and gained a large amount of work experience, they might lack some profound skills and understanding of an industry or trade. Employers are now facing a crisis: a largely unskilled and unmotivated labor force that is unwilling to commit to the responsibility of a 9-5 job. When the typical Gen Y impatience takes over, they leave their positions to go freelance—often before they have the skills they need. The result is a growing bank of freelancers with high price tags and little actual know-how.

Deputy Dean Chaisansook voices the worry that in the future there won’t be enough people who are really good at what they do. “The problem is, the learning system is too superficial. Kids learn about too many subjects: computers, language, math, etc. They also learn from TV, radio, the Internet. There are many distractions for them. If the system continues like this, in 10 years we might lack specialists, those who really know about a subject in depth.”

My MBA

It’s not just the speed of communications and the way Gen Ys were raised that’s encouraging this trend: Blame the MBA. Bangkok seems to be awash in over-educated people who don’t want to wait in line or grow in a company.
The Master of Business Administration is a scientific approach to business management. Skills our parents spent a lifetime acquiring can be obtained from a course you can finish in one to two years. “The MBA is fine for those who work and study at the same time. MBA students know various sides of a business but they also need experience and real-life skills,” Deputy Dean Chaisansook explains. Many Gen Ys boasting an MBA are over-confident in their knowledge and believe they shouldn’t have to work their way up from the bottom. They tend to walk in and expect to be well paid and start on a higher rung on the career ladder than someone who has been on staff for 10 years.

Similarly, independent-minded Gen Ys don’t want to be told what to do. They don’t believe in company uniforms, set office hours or rules. Even when they’re working for someone else, they still want freedom and independence. They talk back. They say “no.” They won’t go along with the majority if they don’t agree. While all of these things are desirable qualities in certain circumstances, it can be a bit hard for their older bosses and co-workers to take.

Freedom in Freelancing

For previous generations, a “freelancer” was a bum. In the age of Generation Y, freelancing is a growing trend, and freelancers are respected and admired (at least by their peers) as people who are living their lives on their own terms: no uniforms, no 9-5, no boss. It’s an option for those who want to work but don’t want work to be the focus of their lives. And it’s not just creative types—you can now find freelancers and “consultants” in almost every field.

But this rose is not without its thorns. The biggest disadvantage of freelancing is a lack of a steady paycheck. One month there might be lots of work, the next month nothing. Freelancers have to “hustle” to get jobs, and are often the last to be paid. And if there’s a mistake, while full-time staff usually gets a second chance, freelancers often don’t. They are expected to be pros, hired guns who are so good at what they do they can’t be tied down to a single company. Judgement is quick and harsh, and the line of other eager freelancers waiting to take their place—their Gen Y peers—is growing longer every day.

Being a freelancer requires a lot of courage since you know full well that you aren’t going to have social security, retirement compensation or sick leave, let alone a regular salary. Freelancers also find it hard to get credit cards and bank loans. Without this kind of security, providing for a family and making large purchases, such as a home or car, can be exceedingly difficult.

Why Gen Y

So what’s a boss to do? Simply avoid hiring Gen Ys at all? Not so fast, Old Fart: There are plenty of reasons you want Gen Ys on your team. Today’s young Thais bring energy, confidence, guts, creativity and adaptability. They are ambitious and aim to work faster and better than others, and as long as they are engaged, can be very valuable. Their ways of thinking and working are in some ways better suited to the world today than traditional methods.

Hiring freelancers, too, has its perks, and the tendency toward outsourcing work is growing. Deputy Dean Chaisansook reasons, “If a company wants to hold an annual event, they don’t need to bother hiring permanent staff for it, when outsourcing is easier and costs less. Companies in private and governmental sectors are now condensing their sizes and hiring outsourcers.”

What will become of Generation Y? Will these 20-somethings see their priorities change as they get older and opt for more security? It seems more likely that the workplace will change to accommodate Gen Ys than the other way around.

Despite his complaints, the 40-something boss still wants independent-minded Gen Ys working at his company. “I sometimes wish that they were more mature, and more realistic, but as far as the work goes, these kids are really amazing. I guess we just have to accept that as employees they may not stick around for a very long time. In the end, it’s worth it.”

In My Day...

Everyone loves to talk about the generation gap, but does anyone really know where it is? Ask five 25-year-olds what generation they belong to and you’ll get five different answers. It’s a particularly baffling question outside North America, since most of the definitions are based on US history and culture. But while the idea of the “GI Generation” may not work in Thailand, more recent generations are defined by not being tied to a particular place, and you’ll almost certainly recognize iPod-toting Gen-Yers on the streets of Bangkok. Take a look at the guide below to see where you stand.

GI Generation: Born between 1900 and 1924. Coming of age during World War II, many members of this generation are veterans. They are characterized by realism and duty, and in the US they created the post-WWII baby boom.

Silent Generation: Born between 1925 and 1945. Sandwiched between their GI elders and baby boomer juniors, this generation is mainly characterized by endurance of hardship: They were children of the Depression.

Baby Boomers: Born between 1946 and 1964; primarily an American phenomenon. Also known as “the Me Generation,” baby boomers rebel against tradition. They witnessed the Watergate scandal, the Vietnam war, the first TVs and the beginnings of rock and roll. Baby boomers believe that things can change for the better. They are idealistic, ambitious, optimistic and question authority.

Generation X: Born between 1965 and 1980, Gen-Xers were raised on cable TV, video games and PCs. They distrust institutions and tradition and want to be able to find their own paths. They are flexible and adapt easily to new technologies.

MTV Generation: Straddles Generations X and Y (born between 1975 and 1985). Also known as “Generation XY” or “the No Generation.” These kids are the children of baby boomers, and as the name suggests they’re heavily influenced by the trends (dress, language, music, etc.) popularized via MTV.

Generation Y: Born between 1981 and 2002. Now anywhere from four to 25 years old, Generation Y-ers have grown up surrounded by new technologies as well as by global disaster, both natural and man-made. They are realistic, globally aware, value diversity and are cyber-literate.

I had a fish thrown at my head almost 10 years ago in a kitchen in Paris. As a (pretty bad) cooking student, I had things thrown at me all the time. But the waste of a perfectly good sea bass brought a particular pang to my heart: After I had trimmed the tail into an attractive “V,” basted it to a sheen and garnished it with lemon, my teacher ended up tossing the fish at my ear upon discovering I had failed to remove the scales. He missed, of course (he was a French chef and not a baseball pitcher for a reason), but I still recall that day with some degree of shame.

While red-faced, fish-flinging Frenchies are probably not in your immediate future, it’s best to be safe and cover all the bases before venturing into your own kitchen to try your luck. Here, a few tips on how to keep your fish in the pan and not on your person.

Finding it Fresh

Lucky Thailand abounds with markets where cooks can get their fish plucked straight from the ocean. Favored among cooks are the wet markets that pepper the capital. Degrees of freshness depend on the shopper’s determination—and resources. Those with a yen for fish fresh off the boat and unlimited petrol can head to Samut Sakhon province (25 miles south of Bangkok), where the Thalad Talay Thai (Thai Ocean Market) in Mahachai boasts the freshest fish around. People who still want fresh fish but lack the traveling bug can head to Thalad Gow (Old Market) on Yaowaraj Soi 23 (open 4-11am), which once served as the seafood center for all market vendors and restaurateurs and is still the earliest-opening market in town. For those who think bigger is better, there is Thalad Thai (Thai market) on Phaholyothin and Wipawadee-Rangsit roads (open 9am-noon). Cooks-to-be with cleanliness on their minds can head to Sam Yan (Rama 4 and Ratchaprarop Rds., open 9am-5pm, MRT Sam Yan) or the Emporium (622 Sukhumvit Rd, 02 269-1000), where the high quality and freshness are rivaled only by the prices.

Get Your Hands Dirty

Once you get to the market, you have to pick yourself a good one. This may be the hardest part of the task, but there are plenty out there with advice (see the box below for ours). If there is an ultimate sensei on the issue of fresh fish, he or she must surely come from Japan, where people eat the stuff raw every day. Ryoji Ishii, owner of Japanese Restaurant Erawan (B1 Erawan Bangkok, 494 Ploenchit Rd., 02-250-7890), should know: his chefs go to the royal palace to cook three or four times a month. (See the box below for his tips) The easiest fish to find alive or fresh in Bangkok? The pla krapong, or sea bass, chefs say.

No Toil or Trouble

Once you have obtained your fishy treasure, it’s time to get to work. But while restaurant chefs can happily grill, deep-fry or poach their catch of the day, most home cooks have to make do with simpler recipes and easier techniques. Mediterranean maestro Nicolas Joanny of Le Vendome (All Seasons Place, M Thai Tower, 87 Wireless Rd., 02-654-1187-8) advises oven-baking a white-fleshed fish such as snapper, flounder or sea bass with white wine, shallots, garlic or tomatoes, or for those who favor Asian flavor, baking with soy sauce, sliced ginger and spring onion. To ensure against overcooking (which is even worse than not having any fish at all), Joanny suggests baking at 350 degrees (Farenheit) for no more than 10 minutes and flaking the fish with a knife toward the end to make sure the flesh is firm. Others simply poke the fish with a finger once the flesh turns opaque; it should feel a little softer than your forearm.

Just last year True opened its first Truelife cafe at the backpacker hub, Khaosan Road. The concept of “sip and surf” is a fast-growing trend and these cafes are multiplying accordingly. In fact, True’s third outlet has already popped up.

Set to be a new hip hangout on the trendy soi, Truelife@Thonglor (137 Thonglor Soi 10. Open daily 7am-midnight, 02-713-8605) stands out stylishly in its all-white building. While the Paragon branch opts for pub-like décor with dark wood accents, the new outlet is bright and roomy with high ceilings and louvered walls. “The décor concept is designed to suit the taste of Thonglor frequenters, most of whom are young professionals and fresh graduates. So we’d like this outlet to be fresh and modern,” says manager Supakit Preechavetayakul.

As you would expect from any internet cafe, Truelife@Thonglor offers up to 4Mbps hi-speed access (B40/hour). There are 11 computers downstairs and another 27 on the second floor. One corner is dedicated to the ICT Counter, which showcases the latest mobile phones and MP3 players. And yes, like any True shop, you can pay your mobile phone and UBC bills here.

What sets this outlet apart is its “music community.” In collaboration with renowned songwriter Boyd Kosiyapong, Truelife@Thonglor allows customers to download songs from the album Rhythm&Boyd E1EVEN1H for free. Bossanova tracks from Kunksanova, a compilation release produced by Groove Riders guitarist, Kunk, are also exclusively available for download here. “The service isn’t limited to True Move clients. Every customer visiting the cafe can enjoy downloading their favorite songs,” says Supakit. “In addition to the two albums, we also have other tons of other songs available for download at Trueworld.net for B40 a song.”

Served up alongside the music are Italian dishes from Spicchio. The best-selling items are black spaghetti with prawns (B135) and beef brisket stew with mashed potato and vegetables (B130), which taste quite pleasant considering that they are microwave food. A selection of cakes and low-fat ice cream is also on offer for you to nibble at while sipping at True drinks. Try Caramel Macchiato (B60, B85), Green Tea Twist Cream (B75, B90), or a fruit smoothie (B75). They also have delivery service for those working on the soi, but you have to pay the motorcyclist yourself.

Easy-listening songs from a playlist of Love Is artists make up the background music, while every Friday and Saturday night from 9:30pm to 1am, the place turns into a live music venue. Various bands, both renowned and rookie, take turns churning out jazz, funk and soul tunes. “For September, we’ve invited artists like Crescendo and Monotone to perform. Starting next month, we are arranging auditions where aspiring bands can compete for a chance to play at our cafe,” says Supakit.

Internet, technology, coffee and music—sounds like a perfect cocktail mixed up by Truelife@Thonglor.

HEAR

Singapore’s not called a multicultural country for nothing. Pass through the Raffles Place and City Hall MRT interchanges, the epicenters of the public transport system through which Singaporeans of every ethnic group pass everyday, for an earful of announcements made in our four main languages: English, Malay, Chinese and Tamil. To hear “stand behind the yellow line” in all languages is quite the ear-twisting quintessential Singaporean experience.

For an honest look at our kaleidoscope of cultures, there is nowhere more down to earth than our local kopi tiams (coffee shops). And by honest we mean that you’ll be able to pick up swear words in at least three different languages and various dialects too, as the patrons hang around downing mug after mug of the local Tiger Beer, coffee and tea. Check out Chinatown Complex on Smith Street.

Visit the infamous Speaker’s Corner (Hong Lim Park) on any given day and you can hear the deafening sound of...well, nothing really. Our version of Hyde Park, established to give Singaporeans a chance to speak out on issues (with prior approval, of course), is surprisingly empty (well not so surprising given the police station just 100 meters away)—except for guys like former taxi driver and independent politician Lim Kian Heng (aka Singlet Man) and a couple of soccer teams practicing on weekends. But it’s not that Singaporeans have nothing to say. Just hop into any taxi and ask what the driver thinks about the government/economy/price of gas.

Singapore has more than its fair share of song birds in our ever-growing music scene. Of course, whether those birds are singing beautifully or squawking like vultures depends on who you’re listening to. To get an earful of the latter, tune in to Singapore Idol every Wednesday on Channel 5. For more serious musical talent scope out the live gigs at Bar None (Basement, Singapore Marriott Hotel, 320 Orchard Rd., 6831-4657) or Timbre (45 Armenian St., 6338-8277).

Anyone looking to soak in the arts should definitely swing by Esplanade—Theatres on the Bay (1 Esplanade Dr., 6828-8222) at least once to catch a show. The “durian,” as it’s been nicknamed for its resemblance to Southeast Asia’s unique thorny fruit, is synonymous with the arts and is home to some of the most renowned performances, such as the ongoing Forbidden City.

For chilled out banter and chatter, make a stop at Café le Caire (39 Arab St., 6292-0979) on a Friday night. On top of the casual conversation from the crowd of mostly young professionals, there are also the sounds of really cool Middle Eastern music to soak up while enjoying a smoke from intricately designed hookahs.

Singapore is one of the most technologically up-to-date countries in Asia and yet, for some reason, there are quite a number of us that forget there’s a silent function on all mobile phones. Our memory of this function is especially dim when in cinemas. Sit in on almost any flick and listen to the myriad of Canto-pop ring tones that explode mid-film, followed by hushed (or not so hushed) conversations about how the movie is going to end.

If you’ve only got a short while to get jiggy in the clubbing scene, we suggest going for bite-sized samples of various musical styles on offer at Ministry of Sound (#01-02/07, #02-01/08, Blk C Clarke Quay, River Valley Rd., 6235-2292). Here, all you need to do to enjoy a different genre is step into another room.

From middle-aged rockers wielding their trusty (and in some cases, rusty) electric guitars to a surprisingly spry old man swinging about a string of beads around his waist like a delirious hula-hoopa, the buskers on our popular shopping belt Orchard Road are an eclectic bunch. They constantly fighting for your attention and spare change, usually by butchering classic rock songs and church hymns.

SMELL

Mount Faber may be only 106 meters tall (hardly a mountain) but this park has some of the freshest air around. The unpolluted air (except when the haze comes to town) is partly due to the lack of traffic, the abundance of plants busy churning out oxygen and the proximity to the sea. Chill out on a park bench, take a deep breath of O2 and enjoy the scenic views. Have a drink at The Altivo (The Jewel Box, 109 Mount Faber Rd., 6377-9618) if thirsty.

Love it or hate it but the durian, the big green, spiky, pungent fruit is synonymous with Singapore. Its distinctive pong is highly offensive to people unaccustomed to it who describe its creamy flesh as being like onion-custard. Which side do you fall on? To find out, drop by one of the numerous durian stalls along Geylang Road and cast your vote.

Explore the streets of the historical quarter Little India to learn more about Indian culture. The overwhelming scent of Indian spices, jasmine garlands, incense and yummy curries make your head spin. Go any day of the week—except Sunday—unless you like rubbing shoulders (literally) with thousands of foreign workers who hang out here on their day off work.

There are many who think our local film industry stinks. We certainly haven’t caught anything impressive lately and some productions have even lulled us to sleep. To prove we’re not just being picky, go see for yourself major local productions at movie theaters, while smaller indie films are being screened at The Arts House (1 Old Parliament Lane, 6332-6900), The Picturehouse (5/F, 6/F, The Cathay, 2 Handy Rd., 6235-1155) and the National Museum of Singapore (93 Stamford Rd., 6332-3659). Bring a pillow.

One way to know our Garden City better is to, erm, go to a garden. There’s no better place than the Singapore Botanic Gardens
(1 Cluny Rd., 6471-7361) where you can smell roses and frangipanis growing in abundance. Register for a garden tour at the Visitor Centre.

The National Museum of Singapore’s (93 Stamford Rd., 6332-3659) massive facelift is so recent the paint still smells fresh. Only to be officially opened in December, this 1887 building has been endowed with state-of-the-art facilities and 10,000 square feet of exhibition space. Come and take a peek at the exhibit “The Art of Cartier” and art works from the Singapore Biennale 2006.

The State’s ideologies and the local media are intricately linked. We advise you to be savvy and critical while reading the papers. See if you can sniff out the “out-of-bounds” markers the media abide by—that’s local political speak for the self-censorship process the journalists go through.

Just as sky scrapers and impressive office towers are associated with the Central Business District, small pubs, karaoke lounges, conservation shop houses and cheap hotels are the hallmarks of “fishy” neighborhoods Geylang and Joo Chiat. Come late, when the action really gets going, to see what Geylang Road and Joo Jiat Road are notorious for and a whiff of the shadier side of Singapore. A word of advice: Trust your instincts more than your eyes.

TASTE

Indulge your taste buds by having Sunday champagne brunch at a five-star hotel. Starve yourself for this treat: There’s food as far as the eye can see, plus free flow champagne. Available at One Ninety (G/F Four Seasons Hotel, 190 Orchard Blvd., 6831-7250, Sun 11am-1pm, 1:30pm-3pm, $132-292) and Town Restaurant and Bar (G/F The Fullerton Hotel, 1 Fullerton Square, 6877-8128, Sun noon-3:30pm, $118).

Try the local cuisine by heading to a hawker center at peak hour. Not only will you get to sample cheap local fare such as roti prata, satays and curry laksa, and interact with Singlish-speaking store owners, you’ll also witness the Singaporean kiasu mentality at work as long queues form at the best stalls. Particularly notable in the evenings are Newton Food Centre and Lau Pa Sat.

For local cuisine in more comfortable (air-con) surrounds, choose the set menu of home style Singaporean dishes at the charming 8 on Greenwood (8 Greenwood Ave., 6100-8711) restaurant or try the all-you-can-eat buffet feast at Straits Kitchen (G/F, Grand Hyatt Singapore, 10 Scotts Rd., 6416-7114).

Try cooling down outdoors by ordering our locally brewed Tiger Beer. Find a chilled out spot at Sentosa’s beach bar KM8 (120 Tanjong Beach Walk, 6274-2288) or check out the more salubrious atmosphere of the latest yuppie hangout One Rochester (1 Rochester Park, 6773-0070) which is housed in a traditional colonial residence.

Witness poor taste in action by going to Lucky Plaza shopping center (304 Orchard Rd.) where you can find all manner of cheap and tacky tourist trinkets, aggressive electronics-touting salespersons and even condom shops.

Satisfy your curiosity about the much-touted chili crab by heading out to the East Coast where many restaurants specializing in chili crab are located. Line up for a table at the chili crab institution Long Beach Seafood Restaurant (1018 East Coast Parkway, 6445-8833) to get your hands dirty with the rich red sauce.

TOUCH

Walking down Orchard Road on a weekend afternoon without bumping into people or having people bump into you is near impossible. But it still doesn’t compare to the swarm at Singapore’s only 24/7 department store, Mustafa (145 Syed Alwi Rd., 6295-5855), at its busiest around 2am on a Saturday or Sunday morning. Nothing brings out Singaporeans’ addiction to shopping more than this quirky phenomenon. This department store is a veritable bazaar for everything from groceries, toys and jewelry to hearing aids and kitchen sinks.

Nothing beats a bit of pampering at the end of a hard day like one of the many hair salons that wash your hair after a head massage and do a manicure—simultaneously. Prices are very reasonable; for a hair wash in a city salon expect to pay $15-20, for a pedicure about $30 and a manicure about $20. We recommend Jean Yip (#04-02 Plaza Singapura, 68 Orchard Rd., 6332-9919).

If you look around you—on the bus, train, in a restaurant—you see Singaporeans constantly text messaging on their mobile phones. The local obsession is so intrinsic that a 23-year-old Singaporean, Kimberly Yeo, held the world record in 2004 for thumbing 26 words into her phone in 43.24 seconds, beating the world record of 67 seconds. To complete your Singapore experience, see how long it takes you to punch in 50 SMSes.

You might get the chance to go to a supermarket while you’re here. If you notice people spending an awful lot of time by the boxes of fruit and veg—this is why. It is an annoying Singaporean trait to go through every single piece of produce, feel it, press it, sniff it, weigh it in the palms of one’s hand, before deciding which piece among the entire box is the best to buy. (And it’s always the piece right at the bottom.) As you can imagine, it takes a while to fondle 600 apples or 150 bundles of spinach. Try it for yourself and see.

If the delights of chili crab, laksa, char keow teow and other hawker food have piqued your interest, pick up some tricks of the trade by signing up for classes at Cookery Magic (58 Jalan Tembusu, 6348-9667). Run by the cheerful and knowledgeable Ruqxana, her classes teach you how to rustle up Singaporean street food in a home kitchen and include vegetarian options. Call Ruqxana to let her know you’re coming as she conducts the classes in her own home.

The best things in life are free. At least that’s the mantra Singaporeans believe in and live by. If you happen to pass by any shop, restaurant or bar that is giving away anything for free, chances are you’ll see a really long queue for it. Doesn’t matter what it is—a drink, a bag, a whistle, health insurance, used socks—if it’s free we want it. If we don’t want it, even though it free, then it must totally suck.

For a certain kind of action on a Saturday night, check out Orchard Towers. With bars like Naughty Girl, Peyton Place and Ipanema in this nightlife location, you can expect to find party girls, sailors, trannies and everything in between. If you step into any of the bars here you’ll see lots of couples dancing, ahem, cheek to cheek, if you get our drift. You definitely won’t be seeing these on your sightseeing tour of the island.

While Singaporeans are a civilized bunch most of the time, we do occasionally hang loose; you’ll even see us eating with our fingers. This happens mostly at South Indian “banana leaf” curry shops that serve rice and curry on, you guessed it, a banana leaf. Check out popular favorite Banana Leaf Apollo (54/56/58 Race Course Rd., 6293-8682) where the curry of choice is fish head. If you don’t fancy gouging out the cheeks of a garouper or sucking out its eyeballs (the most delectable part) try the chicken, prawn, or regular fish curry, or just go to vegetarian restaurant Komala Vilas (12 Buffalo Rd., 6293-3664). You can ask for cutlery, but the real way to eat is to slop curry on your rice, make a little ball, pick it up with four fingers then kick it into your mouth with your thumb. Wash basins are provided.

With the return of US beef and an array of good high-end and mid-range steak houses in town, there has never been a better time to make room for a big juicy steak. We hunkered down and carved our way through some of the best steaks in town.

Morton’s, 4/F, The Oriental Hotel, 5 Raffles Ave., 6339-3740.

In keeping with its American restaurant chain heritage, Morton’s firmly believes that bigger is better. Everything is truly humongous: Potatoes almost the size of rugby balls, and gigantic crayfish are all part of what one can expect here. Maybe ordering 24 ounces of ribeye is slightly OTT, but when it tastes as good as it does here, it’s a little hard to say no. Their biggest menu item is the porterhouse for two ($172), a whopping 48 ounces of meat, meat, meat. If this sounds too much, try the “smaller” serves—we highly recommend the 10 ounce Filet Diane ($76) with its gorgeous mushroom sauce or the Filet Oskar ($82.50) which comes with lumps of crab meat and a delectable Béarnaise sauce. At the moment Morton’s is serving Australian beef, but look out for US imports soon.

Lawry’s The Prime Rib, #02-42/44 Paragon, 290 Orchard Rd., 6836-3333.

Stepping into this seven-year-old restaurant in its prime real estate overlooking Orchard Road one could be forgiven for thinking you were in an English tea room. High ceilings, large paintings and maids’ uniforms certainly make it a novel dining experience. But what you’re really here for is the American rib eye roasted over two and a half hours and cut from 24-month-old corn-fed steers. Steaks come in four sizes: Five ounce ($49.80 for lunch, $54.80 for dinner), seven ounce ($59.80 for lunch, $65.80 for dinner), 10 ounce ($69.80 for lunch, $76.80 for dinner) and the giant 16-ounce ($89.80 for lunch, $94.80 for dinner), all served with delightfully fluffy Yorkshire pudding and Idaho mashed potatoes. On weekends the Flaming Tournedos ($67.80) are also available—Australian grain-fed tenderloin pan-seared and brandy-flamed at your table for an impressive spectacle. And if steak isn’t your thing, take your pick of the lamb shank ($44.80 available for lunch only) or the Atlantic mixed lobster tails ($86.80 available for dinner only) which are equally delish.

Long Bar Steak House: A Plantation Restaurant, 2/F, Raffles Hotel, 1 Beach Rd., 6331-1612.

For a steak with a touch of Asian influence Long Bar Steak House offers their specialty rib eye ($55) and fillet mignon ($57) with a choice of six different sauces all with Asian flavors such as sambal. However, we prefer the more traditional steak sauces such as peppercorn, the subtle house barbecue and the aptly named “brown” sauce. Apart from the truly stellar service, what is especially helpful is the chart listing different ways of cooking the steak. As restaurants often vary in their interpretations of how well-done a “medium” steak should be, it’s extremely useful to have the restaurant specify exactly what you can expect. A la carte steaks are only available at dinner (at lunch time there’s a semi-buffet instead).

The Tavern, 229 River Valley Rd., 6737-6995.

For 12 years The Tavern has been luring discerning diners to its elegant Swiss-styled dining room with its promise of some of the best steaks in town. Expect grade-7 Australian Wagyu beef, sliced the thickness you desire ($40 per 100gm) at your table. The perfection of the grilling which brings the full flavor to the fore while being melt-in-your-mouth tender is impressive. Steaks are served with broccoli, delicious raclette cheese potatoes and a divine Béarnaise sauce. Or try US prime rib eye ($25 per 100gm) and organic US Kurobuta pork chops ($36). We can also highly recommend the New Zealand rack of spring baby lamb ($36) which is well marinated and served with a gorgeous garlic and rosemary red wine gravy. Specialty starters not-to-miss include pan-fried goose liver ($28) and raclette cheese with air-dried beef ($15.50), also beautifully prepared.

Just Steak, #01-42 The Riverwalk, 20 Upper Circular Rd., 6438-5522.

For the most fashionable steak experience in town, try Just Steak. Here, the minimalist blonde wood space and waiters dressed in black present a very cool contemporary experience. They only serve US beef, such as the Black Angus tenderloin steak ($5 per ounce) and the ribeye steak ($6 per ounce). They also serve strip sirloin steak ($6 per ounce) and Black Angus ribeye steak ($4 per ounce), all of which require a minimum order of eight ounces. They’re served with yummy potato croquettes, green beans and carrots, plus mustards and horseradish, but Béarnaise sauce requires 10 minutes of preparation. Also available are sides of creamed spinach ($10) and sautéed mushrooms ($9) which were tasty. They also serve US pork chops ($28 for six ounces, $48 for 12 ounces), roast rack of lamb ($39 for eight ounces) and over-roasted spatchcock ($28).

Gordon Grill, Goodwood Park Hotel, 22 Scotts Rd., 6730-1744.

At this veritable institution, steak is a big part of the menu. Basically there are six cuts to choose from: Three American and three Aussie. The US beef served here is prime Creek Stone Black Angus and comes in rib eye ($2.60 per 10 grams), striploin ($2.40 per 10 grams) and tenderloin ($2.80 per 10 grams). And it is for good reason that this steak is considered one of the finest around. The Australian Wagyu, served as rib eye ($4.50 per 10 grams), striploin ($4.50 per 10 grams) and tenderloin ($$4.50 per 10 grams), is positively melt in your mouth. You can opt for your steak to be flambéed, grilled or braised. Béarnaise, green peppercorn and brandy, and mushroom sauces are available but the meat doesn’t need any addition. If you want to go for variety over quantity, check out the restaurant’s sampler lunch ($55 per person) which allows you to have two mains as well as three appetizers, three soups and two desserts—all in small tasting portions.

Hog’s Breath, #01-26/27 CHIJMES, 30 Victoria St., 6338-1387.

Where do you go if you want good prime rib in a fun, casual setting? Here! Aussie chain Hog’s Breath has been at CHIJMES for about a year now and is dishing out the same juicy steak as in Down Under. Slow cooked for up to 18 hours, the prime rib is tasty, tender and carefully put together. There are six flavors to choose from: the Mexican style El Grand; avocado; topped with prawns; au naturel; and best sellers Cajun blackened prime rib and hickory smoked prime rib ($29.50-34). As the portions are large coming in a big group is ideal if you want to also have appetizers and dessert. And the best beverage to accompany your hearty steak is an ice cold Aussie beer from the well stocked Hog’s Breath Saloon.

If magic shows leave you awed, you will dig Jonathan Allen’s artworks. Intriguing, controversial and daring, they comprise a series of black and white photographs depicting Allen’s artistic alter ego, Tommy Angel. These bold visuals (which may be offensive to some) are speckled with references to theatrical magic, politics and Christianity, provoking the viewer to rethink religion and culture.

Allen explains the significance of Tommy Angel. “In the West, there seems to be a complete fixation on the face of Islamic fundamentalism, but there has not been any visibility of the Christian side of that same fundamentalism. Tommy Angel series is an attempt to find or visualize some kind of iconography called the Christian face of fundamentalism that is being shaped in art, politics and social life at the moment. Tommy Angel is a cross between the evangelist Billy Graham, magician David Copperfield and Donald Rumsfeld.”

Allen deconstructs religion by revealing the phoniness of Angel. “You can see the exhibition as visiting different chapels, or watching a magic show, one act after another. I want people to be compelled but also to see through Tommy Angel. He is a very transparent illusion. The main way you know he is a constructed fiction is that you’re in an art gallery, knowing this is the work of an artist. I’m trying to unveil the constructed nature of the face of fundamentalism in a way.”

So is he anti-religion? “I am not for and I am not against religion,” states Allen. “I’m just interested in stories. God is the most interesting fictional character there is. He is a great story and the Christian narrative is a great story. But they are stories, and the product of the human imagination.” Allen further adds, “The problem is when these stories start limiting rather than liberating the imagination. Unfortunately religion has made culture a bit like a haunted house—it’s a bit scary to be in. I guess, in the haunted house of life, art is the only stairs that don’t creak. You can be sure you’re on a solid foot.”

Allen’s photographs are thought provoking, and destabilize the conventional take on religion. It has been a long time since we’ve had a good conceptual show in town. And this definitely makes the cut.

More than a mouse

Faster, better and more convenient. Not just a normal wireless mouse, Apple’s Mighty Mouse is ultra user-friendly. You can program it to use only the right or left button, or both, making it friendly to left and right-handed users. It also has an advanced power management system that automatically goes into energy-saving mode when you are not using it. But before going to the shop, be sure that your Mac has Bluetooth technology. B3,300. Available at Apple Stores (Try Apple Centre, Rm. 315, 3/F, Siam Paragon, 991/1 Rama1 Rd., 02-610-9000).

Best Shot

Go beyond your old limits. The first Sony Digital SLR in Thailand, α100 (Alpha 100), eliminates a lot of annoying camera problems for good. The most outstanding thing about the Alpha 100 could be its Super SteadyShot, which eliminates blurring by stabilizing the shot. Moreover, it creates its own unique look with Eye-Start AF System, which will automatically focus on the object when you look through the viewfinder. With a standard lens and 1GB memory stick, the unit comes at B40,990. See it for yourself at Sony Universe and Sony Style shops. (Try Sony Universe Silom, G/F, 323 United Center Bldg., Silom Rd., 02-630-4771/-2).

Better Snap

Bored of auto focus mode? Turn simple snap shots into better quality pictures with Digimax L85 from Samsung. Providing lots of manual features, unlike some digital cameras, it allows you to adjust aperture priority and shutter priority manually. Moreover, it has auto exposure bracketing, which will enables you to shoot a series of pictures with different exposures. With a v512MB SD memory card it sells for B17,990. Grab it now at leading stores. (Try Powerbuy, 5/F, Central Chidlom, 1027 Ploenchit Rd., 02-655-7655/-6).

Bored with tuneless singers in live music bars? Looking for a place where you can take center stage? Bangkok’s full of karaoke bars that leave the tuneless singing to you and your friends. Here are just a few.

Big Echo

Lousy location, except for office workers in the area. 1/F, Kian Gwan Bldg., Wireless Rd., 02-627-3071/-5. Open daily 11am-1am.

Iplusrooom

Bangkok’s most modern and stylish karaoke venue. 3/F, Olympia Thai Tower, Ratchadapisek Rd., 02-513-4774. Open daily 6pm-1am. www.iplusrooom.com

Urban

Busy with office workers who know enough to book in advance. Narathiwat Rd., 02-675-4224. Open daily 6pm-1am.

Indy tree bar by the story

Three private KTV rooms, an airier alfresco area and an extended dance floor. 44/4 Cheua Plerng Rd., under Rama 4 Expressway, 02-249-0222. Open daily 6pm-1am.

Generally, foods that have high sugar levels or are highly refined have a higher G.I. or glycemic index. That means the body absorbs them quickly, giving a quick peak in insulin and energy, which is soon followed by a drop. So once you’ve consumed a packet of sweets or a piece of white bread, you’ll feel an immediate satisfaction in hunger, but what you’ve consumed won’t have any long lasting effects—in a short time you’ll be feeling tired (from the withdrawal of glucose) and hungry again.

But not all carbohydrates have this effect. Unlike the Atkins’ diet, one doesn’t have to cut out low G.I. carbohydrates or those that are more slowly absorbed into the system (such as wholemeal pastas or wholegrain breads).

And even better, some fatty foods can be eaten. In theory, if the body has less sugar to burn for energy, it will need to use fat stores instead. But before you run out to consume a block of cheese or some streaky bacon, common sense still prevails, so intake should be in moderation.

Is it In or is it Out?

When looking at G.I. tables look for foods with numbers of 55 or less. Avoid all foods that have a G.I. of 70 or more as they are considered high G.I. Here are some general principles.

Avoid:

- Sugars (and yes, that includes cakes, cookies and soft drinks, including sports drinks).
- Refined carbohydrates, such as white rice and breads.
- Potatoes in every form, especially fries.

Choose:

- Complex carbohydrates, such as wholegrain breads and oats.
- Foods with high fiber content, such as most leafy vegetables.
- Proteins, such as lean meats.

BECOMING. Erika Tan creates an installation which analyzes how relationships between self, nation, state and the body. It reveals how actions such as oath-taking and role-playing assist in the evolution of oneself. Through Nov 12. City Hall, 3 St. Andrew’s Rd., 6837-9270. Open Mon-Wed, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm; Thu 1-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Free.

BLOCK 73C. Revealing that the past is distinguished in relation to the present, this installation by Erika Tan uncovers how exploring old military base Tanglin Camp brings to mind imagined scenarios of an earlier period. Through Nov 12. Tanglin Camp, 73 Loewen Rd., 6837-9270. Open Mon-Wed, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm; Thu 1-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Free.

THE BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY PROJECT. A video of a courtroom drama which is accompanied by one of Queen’s hits “Bohemian Rhapsody,” this art piece by Ho Tzu Nyen reveals his passion for film, painting and history. Through Nov 12. City Hall, 3 St. Andrew’s Rd., 6837-9270. Open Mon-Wed, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm; Thu 1-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Free.

THE FOG IS RISING. Sound artists George Chua, Alwyn Lim and Yuen Chee Wai collaborate to put up this installation. Aluminium sheets hang from a room in which soft, low frequency sounds resonate, crafting a contemplative ambience. This art work investigates the nature of social relations. Through Nov 12. Tanglin Camp, 73 Loewen Rd., 6837-9270. Open Mon-Wed, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm; Thu 1-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Free.

SECRET, INTERIORS: CHRYSALIS (19-22). Donna Ong creates intriguing mix media installations which act as the futile creations of imagined personas such as a scientist or a musician. Her works depict how faith, doubt, reality and delusion motivate one’s actions. Through Nov 12. City Hall, 3 St. Andrew’s Rd., 6837-9270. Open Mon-Wed, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm; Thu 1-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Free.

SONTO AL LOYO: THE ELEGY OF A MAN AND HIS WEAPON OF CHOICE. Rizman Putra explores notions of an identity and a spectacle, and unravels the effects of the media. He creates a character Sonto Al Loyo who is a musician, and puts up a series of marketing events which will culminate in a concert. See video clips of what his persona’s talents in this exhibition. Through Nov 12. City Hall, 3 St. Andrew’s Rd., 6837-9270. Open Mon-Wed, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm; Thu 1-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Free.

WE LIVE IN A DANGEROUS WORLD. Brian Gothong Tan creates an installation that questions religion, humanity, war and spirituality. Sculptures, photographs, and figures such as the Virgin Mary and a Kuan Yin Buddha adorn a room. Through Nov 12. Tanglin Camp, 73 Loewen Rd., 6837-9270. Open Mon-Wed, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm; Thu 1-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Free.

WORTHY TOUR CO (S) PTE LTD. Challenging the concept of an “official culture,” and stressing the multiplicity of perspectives, Amanda Heng sets up a show that fuses installation with performance art. A travel agency which promotes a tour of cultural collections such as Chinese film scripts, paintings and calligraphy works is created. Through Nov 12. City Hall, 3 St. Andrew’s Rd., 6837-9270. Open Mon-Wed, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm; Thu 1-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Free.