Road Bike

Where to Buy

Pro Bike

Road bikes from B18,000. 237/2, Ratchadamri Rd,. 02-253-3384.

Km.8 Bicycle Shop

Road bikes from B15,300
295 Ramintra Rd., 02-510-3525.

Where to Ride

Benchakitti Park

Beginners can take off the training wheels at this bike-friendly park, where you’re most likely to find other riders, especially on weekends. Sukhumvit between Soi 22-24, 02-262-0810.

The "Local Road" (parallel to Vipawadi Rangsit Rd.)

This long road is ideal for speed tests and distance riding.

Mountain Bike

Where to Buy

En-Bike

Mountain bikes from B13,000. Phaholyothin Soi 87, Phaholyothin Rd., 02-992-3149.

XC-Life

Mountain bikes from B11,900. 101/4 (before Siwalee Village), Ratchapruek Rd., 080-088-5888.

Where to Ride

Bangkhuntien

This road is known for its scenic views of the mangrove forest, perfect for both beginners and professional mountain bikers.

Samut Prakarn

Known as one of the best locations to get your mountain bike dirty, a ride here lets you cut through parts of a mangrove forest as well as test that suspension along the dirt trails.

BMX

Where to Buy

Rodfai Market

www.bmx2home.com

www.rollyas.com

BMX from B6,200

Where to Ride

Old City Hall

BMX riders usually start their rounds here, call it a BMX HQ if you will.

King Chulalongkorn Monument

This place is a gathering spot for all types of bike riders, BMX riders usually come after 7pm.

Khao San Road

Those alleys off Khao San Road are the perfect place to try out your BMX tricks, while showing off to the girls at the bars.

Fixed Gear Bikes

Where to Buy

Rodfai Market (secondhand fixies) Kampaengpetch Rd., 086-126-7787.
Sealee Urban (shop)
Fixed gears from B15,000
2044/1, New Phetburi Rd., 086-334-0660.
Fixgabike (made-to-order)
Fixed gears from B4,800
314 Prachatipok Rd., 089-836-3489.
Km.8 Bicycle Shop
Fixed gears from B4,000
295 Ramintra Rd., 02-510-3525.

Where to ride:

Suan Luang Park

The vast space at Suan Luang Park makes it easy for you to practice riding if you’re a beginner. No worries even if you don’t have brakes—you probably won’t run into people here.

Rattanakosin Island

With its bicycle lane and scenic views, the Rattanakosin Island is a must for fixie rides especially as there are very few cars.

Road Bike

Aran Kamonchan, owner of Aran Bicicletta Cicli & Cafe

I opened a bike café in Soi Ari (Phaholyothin 7) and we’ve been gathering more and more people that enjoy riding bicycles ever since. We also have a cycling team called “Aran Bicicletta Cycling Club."

When I was in Melbourne, my friends and I always rode our bikes to house parties and concerts. It was always a fun ride and someone usually fell off their bike.
Riding with others allows you to expand your knowledge about bikes together. We work on our bikes together, ride together, eat together, and basically live together, especially within our team.

Our beloved city wasn’t designed with bicycles in mind. Motorists also don’t expect to see bicyclists sharing the same road as them. There are no rules relating to how people should ride in Bangkok and how motorists should share the road with cyclists.

I dream of riding along the coast of Australia on the Great Ocean Road. It has such beautiful views and the road is super smooth.
The most difficult thing about riding a road bike is to really clear your mind and just enjoy the view and the ride; having fun, making jokes.

Get to know your machine well before going out on a big ride, and always ride with caution.

I’d recommend riding along the so-called “Local Road,” parallel to Vipawadi-Rangsit Road. But be prepared; bring lots and lots of lights if you ride at night, as we do on Tuesday night, since it’s quite dark. It’s a long and narrow route that we head to when we want to get up some speed.

Community

Life Cycling Bangkok

Founded a year ago and sponsored by Singha, the Life Cycling Bangkok is a bike club made up of celebrities, including Burin Boonvisut, Dome Pakornlum and Janesuda Parnto. Other than the usual meetings, the club also runs CSR projects with donations going to various charities. And guess what, you too can stay fit and on trend with a B500/year membership.
www.facebook.com/lifecyclingclub

Café Velodome

Situated at Thammasat Thaprachan campus, Café Velodome does coffee, tea and bakery treats with the owner vowing to make whoever wanders in fall in love with bikes. The place also tends to draw in an older bike crowd (early to mid-30s), compared to the younger fixie hipsters.
Thammasat University (Thaprachan Campus), 2 Prachan Rd., Bangkok, 02-623-6349. www.facebook.com/CafeVelodome

Mountain Bike

Aroon Jirakornkittinun

My first bike experience was on a BMX I rode when I was a kid. Then when we all became obsessed with global warming, I started riding a mountain bike.

I’ve made lots of friends from riding. You get to explore new things and see new places together—and, of course, waste money together buying accessories.
Car drivers in Bangkok lack road etiquette; this limits the chance for others to cycle around the city.

If you want to ride a mountain bike, I’d suggest going to the Train Market, Rama 9 Park or the area around the suburbs like Samut Prakarn where there are fewer cars and bumpy tracks.

Before going on each ride, you have to prepare your body. A good stretch is key since mountain biking requires lots of endurance. Make sure you have all your gear, including water, check your bicycle’s tires and brakes, prepare some food as well as electrolyte drinks to give you a boost as you ride up the mountains.

When I first started riding on mountain bike trails, I fell over a lot, I had bruises all over my body. It was scary but I never thought of quitting.

If you’re a beginner, try practicing under the Ramintra expressway, there are bicycle lanes there as well as some bumpy trails for you to get that mountain bike feel.
Trust me, don’t visit shops or websites too often, you’ll end up obsessing over every new accessory on the market!

Community

Thai Mountain Bike

Although this online community is also open to riders of other types of bikes, Thai Mountain Bike is a renowned go-to source for everything mountain bike, from actual bikes to routes and secondhand accessories.
www.thaimtb.com

Bike Loves

This online community is dedicated specifically to organizing mountain bike trips to locations outside of Bangkok, like Kanchanaburi and Nonthaburi, as well as recommending different routes for real down and dirty mountain bike experiences.
www.bikeloves.com

BMX

Varin Somprasong, founder of the Old School BMX Thailand community

When my friends and I started riding, we were so crazy about it. We would ride until three or four in the morning—or even 8am sometimes!

Riding in a group lets you explore new things. Sometimes we're just looking for a new place to eat together or riding for hours just to get to the perfect spot to see some fireworks.

Riding a BMX makes you healthier. Performing the acrobatic moves takes strength, patience and endurance. It’s also has nostalgic value: every time I get on my BMX, I’m reminded of a time when I was younger, finishing my homework so that I could grab my bike and go ride with my friends.

I founded The Old School BMX Thailand community out of a shared passion with a few friends. Our numbers have grown tremendously, our meetings now reach up to about 50 bikers.

BMX is perfect for a city with crappy roads. It’s easy for you to avoid obstacles and these bikes are made to be quite durable. The downside is that because of the small wheel size, riding long distances just isn’t practical.

If you’re looking for BMX riders, then an easy spot to find us is in front of the old Bangkok City Hall. We start there around 7pm and usually end up at Khao San for some beers.

BMX is a huge commitment; accessories can be hard to find and very pricey. I’ve known people who have had their bike for years before it’s completely finished since they made mistakes buying the wrong parts or just ran out of money.

Community

Old School BMX Thailand

Everything BMX: from where to buy, who to ride with and where, Old School BMX Thailand has you covered.
www.osbmx-thailand.com

BMX 40 Plus

BMX 40 Plus is one of a few BMX communities that encourages BMX racing on BMX tracks and focuses on BMX modifications and accessories. www.bmx40plus.com

Fixed Gear Bikes

Wararat Puapairoj, founder and manager at Velayenn bike shop, guitarist of Flure band

We wanted Velayenn to be a place where everyone could come and kick back and ride together after work, hence the name.
We don’t care which kind of bike you ride, whether it’s a fixie, mountain bike or city bike, everyone is welcome.

Fixed gear bikes are simple and practical. The bikes are highly customizable which allows you to design one to your preference. Maintenance is easy since there are less parts than normal bikes and riding is simple, like an extension of your body.
I took my bike on a plane and got a chance to ride it in Japan and the US. That’s the craziest thing I’ve ever done with my bike.

Lots of people think it’s dangerous to ride a bike in Bangkok due to all the cars, but if you know your route, wear safety gear or ride in a group, it really isn’t a problem.
If I could ride anywhere, I’d go for the route used for the Tour de France.

Many fixed gear bikes don’t have brakes, so you have to calculate the distance before you attempt to slow down and be able to think about whether there’s a chance someone could cut you off. It forces you to be cautious and focused.

You can find lots of bikers, and not just fixies, around King Chulalongkorn Monument. It’s a good place to start out for beginners.

The Rattanakosin Island area at night is a great place to ride: the road is beautiful, there are lots of great views and not too many cars.

Community

Velayenn Shop

This famed bicycle joint is more of a bike garage than a café in our opinion (not that it’s a bad thing). And with the owner’s passion for fixed gear rides and the knowledgeable crowd that rides anything from road bikes to city bikes, think of it as a go-to Bike 101 café.
808/15 Soi Thararom 2, Sukhumvit Rd., 080-900-2610. www.facebook.com/velayenn.shop

Fixed Gear is not a Crime (online)

Co-founded by the owner of Sweet Pista Café, this online community is
all about riding together in the hope of changing society's perception of fixed gear as a clichéd trend.  
www.facebook.com/fixedgearIsnotacrime

Sweet Pista

Although the place is a café serving American, Italian and Thai dishes and bakery treats, owner K. Yai is a friendly fixed gear fanatic, so don’t be alarmed by all the fixies parked out front.
Sukhumvit Soi 31, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-662-2866. www.facebook.com/sweetpistabangkok?fref=ts

Make More Friends

Smile Riders Club

Founded by cycling activist Noppakun Dibakomuda, Smile Riders Club is a community that specializes in teaching people how to use bike riding as a genuine form of transportation in the city. Members span bike riders of all different skill and experience levels, from four-year-old boys to aunties. www.facebook.com/groups/smileriders

Night Ride Club

For those not so keen on riding on the city’s hectic streets, the Night Ride Club could be your new best friend. The group is open to bike riders of every type and meets at 6pm every Tuesday and Thursday at parking lot F, Suvarnabhumi Airport. Do away with all the traffic, pollution and bumpy roads, here you get scenic views of the suburbs and the night sky, all enjoyed from a super-smooth, well-lit 13km loop of road around airport. http://www.facebook.com/NightRideClub.BKK

Deep Blue 2010
Florence Chaw, manager of 1920s-style Shanghainese bar Jiu Zhuang says, “Chinese wine complements our concept and we want more people to know about it. Plus, we like to offer non-conventional options. Our final menu will include around three to four varieties.” Among the first to be introduced is this ruby-colored Bordeaux-style blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc from Grace Vineyard in Shanxi, China. It’s a well-balanced tipple with a ripe dark berry nose, which is fab with Chinese classics like braised pork belly.

$180 at Jiu Zhuang.

Grace Koshu Katsunuma 2010
Clean and delicate—kind of like your typical pinot gris—this bottle by Grace Winery (unrelated to its namesake Chinese wine maker) in the Nippon hub for grape wine production, Katsunuma, is made from koshu grapes. IKYU’s general manager Vivi Chang says, “We decided to bring in the Japanese white wine as it pairs well with sashimi and sushi as well as white meat dishes.”

$80 at IKYU.

Monsoon Valley Blended Rose
A best seller at Thai eatery Jim Thompson, this light bodied wine is made from a mix of chenin blanc, colombard and shiraz grapes. Extremely fruity—with strong mango and red berry aromas—the award-wining rose goes down a treat with hot and spicy recipes.

$60 at Jim Thompson.

Indoor surfing

What: A cross training workout done atop a surfboard—commercially known as The RipSurfer X—that’s mounted on a platform. The people that endorse this go the whole nine yards—they pretend to paddle across the water, stand up on the board and then pretend to catch waves.

Hot: Just trying to maintain balance on the board will make your core and thighs burn like hell, so you can develop that lean surfer’s physique without actually having to get wet. And when you’re ready for something more intense, there are even classes—organized by US-based mastermind Surfset Fitness and video demos, which come free with your board order.

Not: It’s a well-meaning concept, but let’s face it—how many of us are going to make it for more than 10 minutes without feeling stupid?  

Visit the Surfset Fitness website to find out more or order The RipSurfer X (US$450).

Bodyweight training

What: An intense system of training that makes use of nothing—not resistance bands nor medicine balls—but your bodyweight, as championed by fitness groups such as London’s Spartanfam.

Hot: You can work out anywhere and at any time, so long as you’ve mastered the right ways of doing chin-ups, handstands, pull-ups, sprint drills, wheelbarrows and all the strength training moves the routine involves. Eventually, you’ll be strong and nimble enough to demonstrate cool stunts such as the “human flag,” a bold, gravity-defying move that involves a bunch of guys hanging off a vertical pole in one row.

Not: Not everyone sees being able to perform a circus act as enough motivation for performing endless reps of painful exercises.

Parkour is available at GymKraft.

Stand up paddling

What: This next big wave in water sports—standing upright on a board and using a long paddle to move across the water surface—is now in Singapore.

Hot: The paddle’s hefty and maintaining a strong level of inertia while in the position you’re in can be quite tricky, so the whole experience is bound to give you an excellent full-body strength and resistance workout.

Not: You can do this in any body of water, including lakes and even swamps, but the Stand Up Paddling School here conducts its lessons out at sea so you’ll need to be a strong swimmer.

The SUP Stand Up Paddling School is at Tanjong Beach, Sentosa.

Zombie running

What: Trust the Americans to turn a passion for something so morbid into an actual sport. A zombie run is (usually) a 5km race where ghoulish-faced humans chase runners round an obstacle course. Malaysia launched its first, jungly zombie run—localized with broken walls and “abandoned huts”—in February. We suspect it won’t be long before we follow suit, especially after the success of zombie comedy Warm Bodies, which screened here in March.

Hot: Everyone who once thought running was a boring sport can now eat their words. Not only do you have to overcome stuff like inflatables and ropes, you’ll also have to run away from “zombies” bent on ripping your running tag off, rendering you disqualified.

Not: We’d rather pay to participate in an actual marathon than for a glorified version of “catch.”

Read more about the original zombie run, the US-based Run for Your Lives, here.
 

Mariko’s

Yes, it’s an izakaya named after a streetwalker. But this isn’t a case of “sex sells”, for this lady of the night is the main character of the short story Good-Bye by cult manga artist Yoshihiro Tatsumi (the titular hero of Eric Khoo’s 2011 film Tatsumi). Mariko serves US soldiers and understandably draws flak from her native culture, but she lives by her own rules nonetheless. We think an intriguing personality trumps any amount of T&A, and if you do too, let’s toast to that with a selection of warm and cold sakes from various parts of Japan (from $12/glass, $70/bottle), whiskeys like Nikka Black ($12/glass, $170/bottle) and craft beers including Hitachino Nest Red Rice Ale ($16).

Tanuki Raw

The gender-bending tanuki (a mythical Japanese raccoon dog) appears all over this Orchard Central hotspot in various guises—in a naughty latex getup and heels, oozing louche cool in Breton stripes and armed with a cigarette. This creature is best known for its oversize scrotum, which according to Japanese folklore, symbolizes good fortune. Going by how packed it’s been lately, especially at its launch party last month, those danglies seem to be working pretty nicely as good luck charms. It may also have something to do with how the martinis and classic cocktails here are made with a “gentleman’s pour” (translation: they’re strong) and start at a mere $10 during the daily happy hour (5-8pm).

The Flying Squirrel

In case anyone’s a bit squeamish about the well-endowed tanuki, here's a much daintier rodent for the whole family to enjoy. This little glider, Hiro, aptly represents the sweet but shy (it’s tucked away in a side alley) newcomer on the Amoy Street scene, best known for fusion Japanese creations like breaded shrimp soba pasta and their signature maki roll. Behind its cutesy exterior, though, lies an Asahi-mad monster that’s quietly hoarding a stash of the regular Dry, Black and Premium varieties. Have them all at just $8 a pop during their weekday happy hour (4-8pm). Those avoiding beer bloat, don’t fret; this hospitable critter has you covered with Tatty Road wines from Australia ($10/glass during happy hour).

Lucha Loco

If you’d pick oiled and macho over cute and cuddly any day, you’re in good company at this taquería and bar atop Duxton Hill. Their signature masked hunk is a luchador, or Mexican pro wrestler in the lucha libre (freestyle fighting) tradition, so this joint isn’t exactly prim and proper, although it should be said that the only wrestling action in store is with the crowd you’ll be fighting to score yourself a table. Obviously you’ll want to recharge with chorizo tacos or huitlacoche (corn smut) quesadillas, but have a look at their extensive cocktail list too—true to image, the drinks here pack a punch. Margaritas, mojitos and sangrias are well and good for quelling the flames from all that hot sauce, but we like the Mexican Mule ($16), a hardworking mix of tequila and ginger beer with fresh lime and ginger thrown in.

Blame it on the penny-pinching economy or a desire to break free of same-same malls, but what was once a novelty is now the norm. Zouk’s quarterly Flea & Easy used to be the go-to (and pretty much only) weekend bazaar for used designer clothing and unheralded artworks on the cheap. Today, not only is that formula being imitated, but perhaps it has been improved on, with the proliferation of younger upstarts like the new weekly Bras Basah. Bugis Arts Flea Market at Bugis+ and the bi-monthly Sunday Artists Market at The Vault. Other independent bazaars like Boutiques are also upping their game, featuring vendors selling original creations not found elsewhere. And not forgetting regular bazaars like the weekly China Square Central Weekend Bazaar specializing in arts and antiques—there's no longer any shortage. So ready your wallets and credit cards as we gear up for the ultimate battle of the flea markets.

The Stalwarts

Flea & Easy  
The city’s first trendy flea market (great music, cool crowd, rare finds) may have lost some of its luster with its slightly more random (and younger) pickings these days, but it still tries its darndest every time. Recently revamped from a daytime flea to an evening one to set itself apart, with operational hours from 4-9pm and a convivial shopping atmosphere set inside Zouk, this flea has 70 stores offering anything and everything from pre-loved clothes and books to vintage collectibles spanning 20,000 sq. ft. worth of space. And it has probably the best music vibe of them all—the all-girl DJ group FFF DJ Bootcamp are always on board to drop quality dance music tunes while you shop, and even after 14 years, it's still one of the coolest fleas to see and be seen in.

Quality: ☺☺☺ 
Variety: √√√
Frequency: Once every quarter
Number of stalls: 70-80
Price point: $ to $$$ 
Payment mode: Cash only
Ambiance: ☼☼☼☼☼

Bras Basah. Bugis Arts Flea Market
Organized by the ubiquitous Public Gardens collective, this highly popular flea market, now a monthlstaple, is one of the most reliable fleas for random shopping: vintage goods are sold alongside artworks, clothing, food, CDs, books, locally published zines and collectible toys. Although pre-loved products are kept to a minimum here—you won’t be able to find that past season Valentino or Prada at any price—more affordable creations by aspiring designers as well as trendy home accessories like trendy terrariums are easy to snap up. It’s simple, casual, not overly ambitious and does the job well enough.

Quality: ☺☺☺  
Variety:  √√√
Frequency: Monthly
Number of stalls: 50-100
Price point: $ to $$$ 
Payment mode: Cash only
Ambiance: ☼☼☼

Winner: Flea & Easy. It’s a close fight in terms of variety and price point, but Flea & Easy gets an extra mark for its one-off charity editions (held annually) where portions of rental fees are donated to charities.
 

The Art Farts

MAAD
This is the original flea mart that focuses on original products created by local and locally-based artists and creatives. Spanning a spacious 700 sq. m. inside the Red Dot Design Museum building as well as another 120 sq. m. outside along the sidewalk, it also boasts a convivial atmosphere with DJs spinning trendy dance music and displays of ad campaigns, posters and product designs by local design and advertising agencies. Goods wise, this is the perfect place if you are looking for small gift ideas—there are lots of one-off notebooks, accessories like earrings, temporary tattoos and hand-painted ceramics available for sale.

Quality: ☺☺☺ 
Variety: √√
Frequency: Once a month (held either on the first or second friday of the month)
Number of stalls: 60
Price point: $ to $$$
Payment mode: Cash only
Ambiance: ☼☼☼☼

Sunday Artists Market
One of the coolest new entries in town. Co-organizer Sharmaine Khoo handpicks all the emerging local artists found here, which has already grown from just 12 at its inaugural edition in November last year to its current 25. The eclectic range of products and services found here is inspiring: get some henna artwork and a haircut done (courtesy of the Hounds of the Baskervilles and Feist Heist teams) while you shop for original works by up-and-comers The Jungle (Pop Art merchandise), Carte Postale (funky prints on T-shirts), Koom (customized shoes), Forest Child (handmade leather products) and HMLM (crochet works).

Quality: ☺☺☺☺  
Variety: √√√
Frequency: Bi-monthly (held on the first Sunday of every alternate month)
Number of stalls: 25
Price point: $ to $$$ 
Payment mode: Cash only
Ambiance: ☼☼☼☼☼

Winner: Sunday Artist Market. Not only is the atmosphere great and in the presence of like-minded individuals, this is the new place to be for rare, one-off buys. Plus, you’re supporting local artists.

The High Enders

Boutiques
What started out as a smallish, carefully-curated high-end shopping fair at Fort Canning Park is now the go-to place to check out creations by local and locally-based independent designers. Held twice yearly in May and November to coincide with Spring/Summer and Christmas, Boutiques is where you can find well-made, fashionable resort wear by local designer brands Simone Irani and Vama, clutch and shoulder bags by Atalier Cheetham, choice accessories from online stores Jooix (www. jooix.com) and homeware from HOME. This is an eclectic yet superior weekend bazaar where the vibe is easy-going yet luxurious—shame that we don’t see it more often.

Quality: ☺☺☺☺  
Variety: √√√√   
Frequency: Twice a year
Number of stalls: 70
Price point: $ to $$$ 
Payment mode: Cash and credit cards
Ambiance: ☼☼☼☼

Robe Raiders
Created by fashion editor and fashion designer Sarah Tan, fashion designer Resham Melwani and business development manager Claudia Sondakh, expect only pre-loved designer womenswear and accessories at this notable but very ad-hoc weekend bazaar. How they work: the trio call for submissions of off-season designer brands at their website and blogspot www.roberaiders.wordpress.com periodically, which result in some of the most fabulous designer finds at any bazaar here. In previous editions held in venues like Kha and Palais Renaissance, used Louis Vuitton pants, Chanel and Balenciaga dresses and Proenza Schouler bags were sold at nearly 80 percent off their original prices. Oh, and some of the pieces were raided from the fashionable trio’s personal wardrobes, so rest assured you only get the premium stuff here.

Quality: ☺☺☺☺  
Variety: √√√  
Frequency: Ad-hoc
Number of stalls: 5-10
Price point: $$ to $$$$  
Payment mode: Cash and credit cards
Ambiance: ☼☼☼☼

Winner: Boutiques. It’s more organized and the range is certainly more diverse, even if you can score some unexpected great buys at Robe Raiders.

Hoarder's Grounds

Thieves Market
Daily, 1-7pm at Larut Road

This is the original flea market, having been around since the '30s, where local collectors and general hoarders gather to earn a few easy bucks over the weekend. Just a couple of years ago, shoppers could still manage to score an old pair of Levi’s, vinyls and collectible books here—but not any more. Ever since the majority of the area has been hoarded up for the construction of the upcoming Sungei Road MRT Station, some of the peddlers selling collectibles have gone over to the China Square Central Weekend Bazaar (see right), and what’s left are old clothes, shoes, toys and gadgets that may or may not work.

Quality: ☺
Variety: √√ 
Frequency: Every Sat-Sun
Number of stalls: 50
Price point: $ to $$
Payment mode: Cash only
Ambiance: ☼☼

China Square Central Weekend Bazaar
This weekly flea market is one of the most reliable grounds to score all sorts of antiques and collectibles. Expect to find a wide variety of rare finds here: books, CDs, vinyls, vintage toys, China ware, stamps, comics, old photographs, watches—but at a price. An old Rolex watch can go up to $5,000, but if you’re lucky, you can score hard-to-find movie posters and CDs for as low as $4. As it happens weekly, you won’t have to worry about missing out, plus the same sellers are there almost every week.

Quality: ☺☺☺☺  
Variety: √√√√ 
Frequency: Every Sunday
Number of stalls: 90
Price point: $ to $$$$   
Payment mode: Cash only
Ambiance: ☼☼☼☼

Winner: China Square Central Weekend Bazaar. It’s hard to leave here without buying anything, and to shop amongst like-minded collectors and sellers is a real treat.

Semi-Finals

Flea & Easy vs Sunday Artists Market: A tough fight this one. Both are similar in terms of vibe and atmosphere, but this new kid on the block is certainly fresher with its art-focused offerings. And you get to meet lots of budding young artists you’ve previously never heard of.

Winner: Sunday Artists Market

Boutiques vs China Square Central Weekend Bazaar: Depends on what you’re looking for, really. While we love Boutiques for its precious curation of designs by up-and-comers, the selection may be too niche for those looking to do some general shopping. China Square Central Weekend Bazaar is that much more accessible.

Winner: China Square Central Weekend Bazaar

Finals

Sunday Artists Market vs China Square Central Weekend Bazaar: You can’t go to one without going to the other. The fact that they’re located within a minute’s walk from one another is serendipitous; go to both for the best in arts and rarities, old and new.

Winner: Tie
 

Upcoming sales and fairs in Singapore

Some of Bangkok's most prestigious galleries have been moving on up, as Silom Galleria has refocused its basement on jewelry traders while sending the art galleries packing to floors four and five. The spaces are bigger and the galleries now sit next to each other, making this move a definite improvement. (Note: Gossip Gallery has moved out and is now at 71 Seree 6, [Soi 2] Rama 9 Soi 51. 089-484-9364.)

TANG GALLERY

With its two branches in China, Tang is Bangkok's art scene top dog. Chatchai Suphin, who worked in Ravin Rawanchaikul's studio, is currently showing his paintings there. His first exhibtion was in Chiang Mai, and although this is only his second show, the star power of Tang and Navin combined means you'll have to pay B250,000 for one of his works.
02-630-1114

CVN

CVN is more of an art dealer, so no rotating exhibitions here. But with two Thawan Duchanee's proudly displayed in the front window, CVN is only rivaled by Sombat Permpoon in terms of reputation. Bring a few million baht if you'd like to take a Duchanee home, but prices start from much lower than that.
02-630-2251

NUMBER 1 Gallery

Young and fresh, with a selection of exciting emerging artists, this gallery's price tags in the tens of thousands remain reasonable.
02-630-2523

THAVIBU

Representing big names like Vasan Sithiket and Navin Rawanchaikul, Thavibu is another highly-regarded gallery.
02-266-5454

Speedy Grandma

Graphic designer/illustrator Unchalee “Lee” Anantawat turned the empty space below her graphic studio into this one-room gallery space with a focus on photography and illustration from new emerging artists   
Current exhibition: “What Are They Doing Inside?” photo exhibition by Orawan Arunrak. Through May 10.
In the future: Not announced yet
672/50-52 Soi 28 Charoen Krung Rd., 090-117-2991, 089-508-3859. Open Tue-Sun from 11am-7pm. BTS Saphan Taksin. 

338 OIDA

René Anant Feddersen is gallery will have a local and Asian focus and seems intent on exhibiting big names, as his opening show demonstrated, with the likes of Rirkrit on display.
Current exhibition: “Go, said the Bird,” photos and installation by Tanatchai Bandasak. Through Apr 28.
In the future: Thasanai Sethaseree, Jun 7-Aug 31.
4/F Pongamorn Bldg, 1028/5 Rama 4 Rd., 090-198-8749. Open Wed-Sun 1-5pm.

Rooftop in Thonglor

With galleries in LA and New York, Hossein Farmani brings his passion for photography to the rooftop of the Design International School on Thonglor. The space kicked off with Cedric Arnold’s “Sacred Ink,” an exhibition featuring Thailand's mystical tattooing tradition.  
Current exhibition: “Colour Theory” by Graham Howe. Through Apr 20.  
In the future: "Night Shift" by various artists, May 10-Jun 10.
4/F 440/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor) 090-910-8373. Open Wed-Fri 12pm-7pm.

Gallery D-9

After many years working at galleries around Bangkok, including Project 304 and Numthong Gallery, Korakot “Kla” Duangkao has now started up his own venue aiming to promote up-and-coming artists focusing on contemporary photography and paintings.   
Current exhibition: “Beauty of the Beast,” a black and white photo exhibition by Pattana Chuenmana. Through Apr 27.
In the future: Joint exhibition from various artists, opening date TBA.    
1085/5 Nakhonchaisri Rd., 081-400-9126. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.
 

This February, two floors of  the Ma Du Zi hotel were opened to the hip and the hi-so, who mingled and air-kissed while sipping free cocktails and browsing contemporary art. Each room had been taken over by a different gallery, and hung with a variety of pieces, all of which were for sale. The organizers would not reveal sales figures (and galleries that did speak had mixed results) but the event definitely felt like a watershed moment. The faces peering at the artworks did not all belong to the gallery show opening regulars, and there was an uprecedented red-carpet-event buzz to the whole thing. Whether it was the visibly affluent attendees or the fair's obvious commercial objective, it also underlined that art wants buyers, not just admirers.

The Hotel Art Fair hasn’t been the only sign that well-to-do Bangkokians may soon turn to buying art with the kind of enthusiasm they previously reserved for cars and watches. The opening of the private Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) by DTAC founder and chairman Boonchai Bencharongkul  last year means paintings from Thai National Artists have become status symbols on a par with a BMW or Rolex. At the other end of the spectrum, more artists have been seeping into popular culture, flirting with celebrity status even, through popular events such as BUKRUK, which cemented Alex Face’s rapidly growing notoriety.

The gallery owners we spoke to say none of these tremors have converted into a huge boost in sales—yet. In Sotheby’s Hong Kong auctions, contemporary Thai art remains more appreciated by foreign collectors with a Southeast Asian view than among Thais themselves. As for works by National Artists, which are appreciated locally, they are still usually bought directly from the artist, and then traded from one collector to an other or through obscure middlemen—hardly a reliable market likely to inspire much trust.

The good news is that Thai art is cheap, but with the market still this immature, low prices alone don't necessarily mean it’s a good investment. Even Sotheby’s expert Mok Kim Shuan admits that this is either the right time to buy, or a bit too early. For the Thai art market to mature, it will need many more art fairs, more discerning buyers and maybe better artists, too. Here, we speak to a diverse group of experts about their take on Bangkok’s art market.

THE GUERRILLA GALLERIST

Somrak Sila, WTF Gallery

I once heard you say that WTF, the bar, was designed to fund the gallery. Is that still the case?
Well, WTF is not focused on commercial art, and we still don’t have pressure to sell. The last three shows didn’t sell, actually. But it’s our policy that once or twice a year we choose work that we know will be more commercial. Our financial records show the gallery is actually sustainable. It doesn’t make money. But it’s sustainable.
Why don't the shows sell?    
WTF is a platform for undiscovered artists. After doing a show with us they go on to more commercial spaces, and usually sell a lot more. Our last show contained outstanding pictures from a World Press Photo Award winner, but they were really violent pictures. And another section was about underwater life, and they didn’t sell because it’s a social cause.
How do you set the price?
Normally, I let the artist set the price, and they price it so that even a single sale can cover the printing and framing for all the works in the exhibition, and maybe make a little bit of money. Then they submit the price and we look at how many shows they’ve done, whether they have collectors—and we may suggest it’s too high. Mostly our stuff is around B7,000 to 25,000.
What’s a show that did sell?
Albert Yonathan. He has collectors all over the world, and is representing Indonesia at the Venice Biennale. But nobody knows him here. He wanted to sell his art for B40,000 or B50,000 a piece. It is really beautiful but I asked him drop the price by about 20% for Bangkok. We sold 10 or 11 out of 20 of his pieces.
What’s your cut?
At WTF we get a 30-35% cut. Bigger galleries would be closer to 50%. The younger the artist, the bigger the cut, because the gallery is discovering the artist. So they will sign a contract saying the artist can’t have a show anywhere else.
Say I bought a piece of art. Then I want to sell it a year later. Where would I sell it?
Good question. If you’re in the art circle, people do buy from each other. But it’s the beginning. In Thailand, nobody is thinking of art as an investment.
Is the market changing?
I wouldn’t say there are more buyers, but definitely a lot more galleries and platforms for art. And that’s how it grows. First you build the skill, you let artists have more shows. Then you get attention from the buyers.
How about the artists?
Mostly, I don’t know anyone who can just be an artist and live from that. Except maybe Rirkrit Tiravanija.

WTF Gallery & Cafe, 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246

THE SECONDHAND DEALER

B350,000
Worrariddh Riddhagni. 80x100cm.

Panada Lerthattasin, director, Sombat Permpoon Gallery

Sombat Permpoon is both a shop and a gallery?
Yes, mainly we deal with the secondary market, actually. We started as collectors. A lot of the artworks we have here are ours that we collected over time. Our other operation is the exhibition space, with shows rotating every one or two months. We take a 30 to 50% cut on those sales, the rest goes to the artist.
What sells the most?
Most people come to us because they know that we sell artists that are really established. They want someone famous, whether for their own status, or because of the financial value. But some people just buy what they love. They aren’t concerned about the name. That type of client is mostly foreigners: they have money to spend and appreciate quality but don’t know the local artists. The third type of clients are really educated about art, they know exactly what they want.
How much do they sell for?
From B2,000 to over B5 million. Our Thawan Duchanee are all sold out, they went for about B4 million each. In the past five years, we’ve sold about six or seven. But you’ve also got inexpensive decorative art. That’s very easy to sell. People buy it to furnish offices, as corporate gifts.
Has the typical buyer changed over the years?
There are definitely younger collectors now, second or third generation Thai-Chinese, educated abroad, and they have this appreciation of the arts. The problem in Thailand is that we’re such a small community, buyers still buy directly from artists or collectors. And a lot of contemporary artists that do appear in auctions outside of Bangkok don’t sell here. It’s a matter of taste, the buyers [for their kind of art] are not Thai.

Sombat Permpoon Gallery, 12 Sukhumvit Soi 1. 02-254-6040.

THE FRIENDLY FAIR ORGANIZER

Top Changtrakul, creative director at Farmgroup

What was the motivation behind the Hotel Art Fair you organized last February at Ma Du Zi?
My true motivation was to bring people together. Galleries always complain that no one comes to their exhibitions. They ask, “Why are people not interested in art?” People are interested, actually, in the right context. But people are busy, stuck in traffic. The Hotel Art Fair allowed the galleries to come together in the one central location.
How were sales?
I think the galleries were very happy with the sales. I got the 15 rooms for very little and I received a small commission on the gallery sales.
What was the effect of the art fair?
This kind of event makes people relax. When I actually went into the rooms, I could feel it. It’s more intimate. You have your friends calling you over, tapping your shoulder, “Hey, let’s go check this room.” It’s the kind of atmosphere I want to create for shopping. A friendly environment in a friendly manner, where you dress up. You know, Thais don’t like seeing something without a price tag. And you always need something to lure people in so I asked my celebrity friends to join and they know a lot of people.
When is the next one?
The galleries keep asking me that. Soon, but probably in a bigger venue, with a couple more galleries and more international galleries that are in Southeast Asia. But I really want to keep it local and low-key. I don’t want to turn it into Art Basel.
Are artists making a living?
There are some but few. I think they often just stop making art and get another job, just like I did. I used to be a starving artist in New York before I came back here.

www.farmgroup.co.th

THE NON-STARVING ARTIST

Maitree Siriboom, artist, curatorial advisor for WhiteSpace Gallery

As an artist, can you make a living?
My relationship with Whitespace is just pro bono. We are planning on opening a new gallery in July, near Sofitel So in Sathorn, and I will just be a curatorial advisor. So I do make my living as an artist. But it’s very rare in Thailand. It’s not so easy. I did go through that moment where you can’t live from it. My market is larger, it’s more international. That was my plan, to reach a global level as soon as possible so I could get more sales. It's not the same as local artists depending on the local market. I know maybe one other artist who actually makes a living from her art, but there are very, very few under 30.
How much is the art at Whitespace?
At Whitespace, we sell for B30,000-B200,000. It depends on the profile of the artist: their biography, experience and the quality of the artwork. The buyer might just like the art or they might buy it as an investment, so the experience of the gallery is important, to calculate the quality.
How is the local art market?
There are not that many local buyers or collectors. The market hasn’t really grown so much. People don’t understand how to invest in art. It is changing but very slowly. The confidence in the investment is not there. People just don’t get it.
So if I buy one of your photographs and I want to sell it a year later, how does that work?
You could go back to the gallery and maybe they could help you resell it. Or auction it. Last year, in May, at Christies in Hong Kong, they auctioned one my photographs, Isarn Boy Soi 4. It had been bought for B50,000 at Whitespace and it was estimated at B80,000, starting price, but it didn’t sell. It’s going up for auction again this year. If it sells, I’ll adapt my prices to that new price.
What’s Whitespace’s cut?
Whitespace takes 50%. I think it’s standard. The gallery business has to be able to run, too.
What needs to be done to grow the market?
I believe there are people with enough money out there, but the galleries have to give them more confidence. They need to be told that they’re not just buying art because they like it but also as an investment. That’s how we’ll grow the market.

WhiteSpace Gallery, 2/F, Block 16, Lido Theater, Siam Square, Rama 1 Rd., 02-252-2900.

THE MARKET MASTER

Mok Kim Shuan, Head of the Department for Southeast Asian Paintings at Sotheby’s, Director for Asia and Southeast Asia

Why aren’t we seeing contemporary art auctions in Thailand?
Well, there are many galleries—artworks are readily available. But the approach towards art is more conservative, always going through friends and dealers. This is not to say that it will not change in the future. Once the momentum of collecting is there, there will be more avenues, such as auctions.
What does it take to get there?
More effort in promoting artworks by galleries, by artists. There should be a fair showcasing Thai artists, raising awareness. Major cities have this, not just to attract the local crowd, but to attract regional or international buyers, too. What is lacking is a more concerted effort among the galleries and the artists, and perhaps even the collectors and authorities, to come up with a platform to promote fine art.
Who is buying Thai art at your Hong Kong auctions?
Art lovers! For now, a lot of the works are collected by regional collectors of contemporary or modern period artists. They’re seeing it as part of a Southeast Asian collection. This kind of art is still very accessible.  
What's the profile of the seller?
They’re from all over. But we’d like to see more Thais—the Thais who currently only buy from galleries and shows.
What’s your cut if you auction off a painting?
Well, first we need to assess it and determine if there’s a market for it. Then we take it as a consignment and draw a commission from that, which can be about 10%.
Which artists in Thailand are marketable?
Currently, the ones showcasing their work in the major Thai galleries. I can’t name names but the art market knows who these galleries are. For me, the most important thing is to not just have the demand from abroad, the local community’s support is much more important. An artist should have a strong home base.
Is the Thai market growing?
We are seeing increasing activity from the Thai market, more Thais coming to the auction. For Southeast Asia, the two big markets are Indonesia and the Philippines. When we first started in the Philippines, it was similar in many ways to Thailand today, with a lot of collecting going through middle men. But they opened up to buying and selling through auctions and it’s taken their art market a lot further—and it’s showing in the figures. In Thailand, it will be the same. Local support is very much needed. When regional buyers see more exposure for Thai artists, they’ll hop onto the bandwagon.
Is now the right time to buy Thai art?
Sure, there’s no better time to start. It might be a bit too early. Thais aren’t open about publicly showing [and selling] art. Maybe it’s the culture. People tend to be a little more humble or modest. It’s going to take some time to cultivate this way of procuring or selling art.

*Estimated prices for Sotheby's Apr 6 sale of Modern and Contemporary Southeast Asian Paintings which took place in Hong Kong. Final sales were unavailable as of press time. Visit sothebys.com for details and upcoming sales.

NEW GALLERIES: Young, Local and with Plenty of Photography

MAKEOVER: New digs at Silom Galleria

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