Since when did Bangkok dining get so good?

If you want to start a fight with foodie friends, just challenge them to name the best dining city in the world. And if you want to really go no-holds-barred, tell them you think it’s Bangkok.

OK, so Thailand doesn’t yet have the economy to sustain bleeding edge food. And there’s more than a whiff of hype right now. Other cities still do molecular better; and for all that places like Le Beaulieu are doing classical food superbly well, you can find equivalents elsewhere. But what’s clear is that Bangkok is being watched and that the economy is growing fast. Michelin critics passed through recently, as part of their big Southeast Asian investigation. Robuchon is said to be opening something there soon. Rumor has it Juan Amador (another 3-star chef) is heading there, too. Michelin-worthy outlets have set up in the past, but they’ve never done well before; so change may be afoot.

Then, of course, Bangkok has the best Thai food in the world. And since Thai food tops so many people’s list of their favorite cuisines, maybe doing the world’s best Thai food—on top of all the other international, experimental stuff—means you really do have the best dining scene.

Says Gregoire Glachant, Managing Editor of our sister magazine BK, “I think people have also been blown away by the diversity of food in Bangkok. With food trucks so hot in the US, visitors are just amazed by the markets and the food carts here. It’s taken a few years but people now get that green curry and pad Thai were the tip of the tip of the iceberg. Best dining city? Maybe not. Most exciting (and perhaps underrated)? Probably.”

And since BK Magazine’s all-new Top Tables 2013 is far and away the best guide to Bangkok’s restaurant scene, we thought we’d share edited highlights of their top five here just to whet your appetite.

1. Nahm
Thai
While there may be one or two close rivals to the throne, we still believe Nahm serves the best Thai food you can eat in Bangkok. (In fact, we believe it serves the best food you can eat in Bangkok, period.) We love the flexibility given by the set menu which starts you off with delicious canapés (the skewered Southern grilled mussels are divine) before letting you pick one nam prik (relish), one salad, one soup (per person), one curry and one stir fry from a mouthwatering list of options. And while Thompson is resolutely traditional with his dishes, there is just enough innovation to keep you on your toes, especially in the sublime desserts courtesy of his partner, Tanongsak Yordwa.
G/F Metropolitan, Sathorn Rd., +66-625-3333. Open daily 7-11pm.

2. Le Beaulieu
French
Resisting fads and fashions, Chef Herve Frerard remains resolutely French, whipping up chicken liver pate, soups and consommés (such as his famous bouillabaisse) and hearty, rustic mains split between land and sea. In short, these are simple dishes using top ingredients imported direct from France or making the most of the chef’s involvement with the Royal Projects in Thailand. Such understated refinement and taste doesn’t come cheap and the crowd reflects this, but Le Beaulieu is currently our favorite French restaurant in town.
G/F Athenee Office Tower, 63 Witthayu (Wireless) Rd., +66-168-8220-3. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-11:30pm.

3. Quince
Mediterranean
The food at the super popular Quince is pretty consistently excellent. Unfortunately, Chef Jess Barnes left the place not long ago. Quince’s number three ranking is thus more a reflection on what the restaurant has accomplished until now, than a guarantee as to its future. Using local produce and seasonal ingredients, Barnes’ cuisine really shines through in dishes like the roasted carrots with shallot, honey, poppy seed and thyme. The space is truly handsome and the kitchen staff is both bold and talented—let’s hope it stays that way.
Sukhumvit Soi 45, +66-662-4478. Open daily 11:30am-1am.

4. The Water Library Thonglor
French
What if you imported nearly all your produce from the best sources in the world? What if you had more chefs than diners? What if you made those diners start eating together at the exact same time, with a set menu they can’t pick and choose from? This crazy dream is a reality at Water Library Thonglor (there’s also Water Library at Chamchuree Square, which does classic a la carte dining). The restaurant serves a maximum of 10 diners per night, starting at 7:30pm on the dot. To make it all happen, Water Library assembled a dream team of international mixologists, chefs and wait staff, and uses only the very best imported ingredients to boot. While this is Bangkok’s most expensive set dinner, the experience and flavors are also some of the most exciting in town.
The Grass, 264/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55, +66 (0)2-714-9292-3. Open daily 6pm-1am.

5. Bo.lan
Thai
Chefs and couple, Bo and Dylan (Bo. lan, get it?) worked at David Thompson’s Michelin-starred Thai restaurant Nahm at its original London location. But it was them who first brought the promise of authentic, uncompromising food at fine dining prices back home to Bangkok. Flavors are uncompromisingly, but not overpoweringly, hot, such as the grilled aubergine salad with fresh, plump river prawns and a perfectly half-boiled duck egg. Each bite lets the complexities of the Thai spices and herbs unfold in your mouth. This is Thai food for connoisseurs who want to be pleasantly surprised (as opposed to comforted) by what’s on their plate.
42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, +66 (0)2-260-2962. Open Tue-Sun 6:30-11pm.

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Short of being Steve McCurry (he shot that Afghan girl on the cover of National Geographic), you can make your travel pictures a touch more exciting by keeping your eyes peeled for these five things.

1. Color
Yeah, it doesn’t take a rocket scientist to figure that one out but sometimes ALL you need is color. Get up close, block the rest out.

2. Patterns
Motifs are great. If something gets between you and the patterns, he/she/it will really pop out.

3. Sunset/ Sunrise
Except you’re not going to take a picture of the sun. You’re going to shoot what is basking in its glorious light. And don’t bother shooting the rest of the day—it’s a waste of time.

4. Water
When a Bollywood or advertising director of photography runs out of inspiration, what does he do? Water. Everything looks better when wet: roads, people, digital cameras…

5. Frames
This is another old trick but it works. Shoot through a doorframe or some foliage to put a frame around your picture. Alternatively, shoot at people already in a frame.

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Our experts' advice snowballs into a flurry of top fashion and home decor picks.

Women’s Fashion

1. Sasiwan Sirivirot,

Owner of Labyrinth Artistic Creations & Scarf

“I’m addicted to wearing dresses, and the first name that comes to mind is Rotsaniyom. What I love about them is the beautiful yet understated details; their pieces are classy, timeless and they do delicate lace touches that are just amazing.”

3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam.

Rotsaniyom

2. Pongsak Kobrattanasuk,

Owner of Rotsaniyom

“I usually go for vintage and secondhand buys, but when it comes to shoes, Soda is one solid option. I think fashion is not always about looking beautiful, it’s also about daring to be fun and playful, trying new things and being brave enough to create an end design that is bold and different, and Soda delivers that very well.”

1/F, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-252-7868. BTS Chit Lom/Siam.

Soda

3. Worawan Nantakwang,

Graphic designer of Soda

Container is a brand of simplicity, but they’re also interesting; their understated designs contain hidden details like fine stitching and practical compartments. What I really like is the fact that the overall look of their products is unisex.”
4/F, Zen Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-100-9999. BTS Chit Lom/Siam.

Container

4. Kanit Tantiwong,

Co-owner of Container

“I’d recommend Olivia Diamond. I feel that the brand is able to differentiate itself well from others in the market. People hear diamond and think classy luxurious jewelry, something very traditional. Olivia Diamond has that end covered, but also keeps its jewelry bold and edgy with rebellious rock-style touches.“
2/F, Gaysorn Plaza, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1375. BTS Chidlom.

Olivia Diamond


Men’s Fashion  

1. Julalak Ponpipom,

Owner of Button Up

“I don’t think there are many options when it comes to men’s shoes here unless you’re going for high-end brands, but one that I feel is reputable for quality and design is definitely Mr. Tango. I like the character that their shoes evoke: there’s a sense of playfulness, while keeping to a high level of craftsmanship and their range covers everything from formal, casual and sports. The owner uses handcrafting techniques learned from Italy, which results in shoes with great details.”
3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam.

Mr. Tango.

2. Chaiyose Pechbasaba,

Owner of Mr. Tango

“I’d go for Greyhound for shirts; their design is simple yet playful, plus I’m a fan of minimal understated designs that aren’t dull. Greyhound delivers what they claim: basics with a twist.
3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-251-4917. BTS Siam.

Greyhound

3. Bandit Rassameeroj,

Designer of Greyhound

“I go to Nomad for pants. The brand does men’s casual work wear with understated design and hidden details like using Japanese canvas, stone-washing and unique tones like burnt orange. Their pants range from denims to work pants and chinos, all with a hint of vintage, accomplished through their use of color, high-waist style and a fit which isn’t skinny, but rather straight or lose.”
2/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000. BTS Siam.

Nomad

4. Peerawat Ruangroengkulkrit

Owner of Nomad

“I only go to two places for bags, one that I would recommend is called (un)FASHION. The place does men’s shoe and secondhand bags. What’s special is the fact that the place is owned by a Japanese man who is really meticulous when it comes to selecting used bags as well as cleaning them nicely before they’re sold. You’ll find lots of vintage leather bags here with nicely-aged leather."
Ekkamai Soi 10, Sukhumvit Rd.,  02-726-9592. BTS Ekkamai

(un)FASHION


Décor

1. Jakkapun Charinrattana,

Designer of Studio 248

“I love Plato’s chairs, they do teak wood with modern design. It’s pretty rare to find someone combining traditional materials with unconventional designs—while still delivering a well-balanced piece.”
3/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-129-4512. BTS Siam.

Plato’s

2. Rush Pleansak,

Designer of Plato

Yothaka does furniture and décor that is different; forget contemporary or minimal, they do rattan décor with lots of delicate details and designs that give off a fresh ethnic vibe. Whether they’re tables or lamps, if you’re looking for bold nature-inspired pieces, they’re definitely worth having a look at.”
3/F, Pong-Amorn Bldg, Rama 4 Rd., 02-679-8631. MRT Lumpini.

Yothaka

3. Suwan Kongkhunthian,

Owner of Yothaka

“I go for Ango. They do sofas and lighting using unconventional materials like silk cocoons with an emphasis on texture and naturalistic touches. The originality of their design and use of natural, anti-mass materials has led to a lot of copycats in the Southeast Asian market—still, no one compares to Ango. “
G/F, Crystal Design Center, Praditmanutham Rd., 02-102-2282.

Ango

4 Angus Hutcheson,

Chief Designer / Founder of Ango

“I feel that the great strength of the Thai design movement comes from a fascinating crossover between contemporary design and the rich cultural heritage of Thai craft. One brand that fuses the two beautifully is Ayodhya. The brand’s designer, M.L. Pawinee Santisiri, pioneered the weaving of objects with natural materials including water hyacinth, recycled materials, sisal and rattan to create geometric designs, that have been enormously influential and a key part of the movement.”
3/F, Gaysorn Plaza, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1089. BTS Chidlom.

Ayodhya

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Five top chefs give us a glimpse into their fave childhood dishes.

Supaksorn Jongsiri

Owner of Baan Ice, grew up in Prachachuen

“When I came back home after school or from playing football, I’d head straight to the kitchen starving and would fry the moo kem (salted pork) my grandma had marinated for me. This was when I started to cook. I did that almost every day, and special days like birthdays simply weren’t complete without this dish. Moo kem is my family’s most homely dish—I wouldn’t swap it for anything. My dad loved it since he was a child, too. And when I went to study in the US for almost 10 years, I had to do it all myself. My friends used to come back to the dorm and fry it all up!”
Somerset Thonglor, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-381-6441-2. Open daily 11am-10:30pm

Ayusakorn Arayankoon

Chef at Joe’s Table, grew up in Thonglor

“Khao chae (rice in iced jasmine-scented water served with various side dishes) definitely takes me back to my childhood. I was lucky to grow up at a time when everyone ate khao chae when the weather got hot. My grandma loved to cook and she would use all the flowers she grew herself like jasmine, rose and ilang ilang. When I grew up, my grandma didn’t cook as much because she had grown old, so I decided to do it myself. The dish isn’t very easy to find these days. I use homegrown flowers and make a few changes to the recipe, but there’s still a real taste of my childhood in it.”
2/F, The Promenade, Ram Indra, 02-947-5691. Open daily 10am-10pm

Danilo Aiassa

Chef at L’Ulivo, grew up in Piedmont, Italy

“My grandmom always cooked parsley sauce (parsley,  anchovy, tuna, vinegar and pepper) on Sunday for dipping with boiled beef or boiled chicken. I use it in red and yellow bell peppers filled with tuna and anchovies. That, a young salad and the parsley dip fill me with memories of when I was a child. It also reminds me of my grandfather who had them for breakfast with a glass of red wine.”
43 Naradhiwas Soi 7, 02-677-5756. www.lulivobkk.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm; Sat 5:30-10:30pm; Sun 11:30am-3pm

Ian Kittichai

Chef at Issaya Siamese Club, grew up in Khlong Toei

“Dishes that stand out in my memory are Thai curries. My mother had a street food cart that I would push around the neighborhood with a dozen different curries she would make every day. Now at Issaya Siamese Club, two of my specialty curries are massaman gae (boneless lamb shank simmered in massaman curry served with ajard [pickled cucumber]) and paneang nuea (grain-fed Australian veal cheek simmered in house-blended spices, coconut milk and kaffir lime leaves). They have their roots from those days even though I have changed the protein and presentation.”
4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chuaphloeng Rd., 02-672-9040-1. Open daily 11:30am-3pm, 6pm-midnight

Julien Lavigne

Chef at Gossip, grew up in Sedan, France

“During my childhood, I’d go to my grandma’s house in Sicily with my family. The house is in a small traditional village near Catania and was surrounded by a beautiful garden filled with lemon and olive trees. We had so many lemons we didn’t know what to do with them so my grandma taught me how to make preserved lemon according to her secret recipe that was based on a mix of salt, sugar and spices. That’s why today I’m applying this truely ancestral family recipe with chicken, vegetables and herbs which slowly cook in an oven.”
Thonglor Soi 15, 02-185-3093. Open daily 4pm-midnight

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We put six cosmetic primers to the test to see which will keep your face matte and flawless longer.

1.) Laura Mercier: foundation primer-oil free

Price: B1,590
The claim: Oil controlling ingredients ensure long wear and easy application. Meant to be used prior to foundation, creating an invisible layer that acts as a buffer to outside elements.
We feel: The foundation lasts about six hours after using a dab of powder, giving a flawless look. It makes the skin feel smoother, but doesn’t minimize pores and smells rather plasticy.
Verdict: Almost there! Do away with the smell and Laura Mercier is a very solid option.

2.) Nars: make up primer

Price: B1,250
The claim: Protects the skin from UV rays and helps prevent premature signs of aging.
We feel: Due to its runny formula, it’s very easy to apply to your face. Also, it doubles as SPF30 sunscreen. However, it left our skin feeling oily and totally unnatural. It doesn’t keep our makeup on long enough nor does it make applying foundation any smoother.
Verdict: Greasy and grey, better to stay away.

3.) Benefit: the Porefessional (Runner Up!)

Price: B1,150
The claim: The balm will minimize pores and brighten your skin.
We feel: We can’t feel it after application, its silky smooth and light texture feels so natural. Rather than a foundation, it’s more like a base that brightens your skin. Although it does not help hide pores, it does help your makeup last much longer.
Verdict: We really like the light texture; still it could cover our pores better.

4.) Clinique: Pore Refining Solutions Instant Profector (BK pick!)

Price: B1,050
The claim: Allergy tested, 100% fragrance free.
We feel: The scent is actually not the nicest, but the chiffon texture means it easy to apply. It really does make your makeup last all day, so reapplication is unnecessary. It doesn’t brighten or smoothen your skin, though.
Verdict:  Easy to apply, it makes your makeup last much longer—and that’s exactly what it’s meant to do.

5.) MAC: Prep+Primer Skim Base Visage

Price: B1,200
The claim: An ultra-fluid lotion with special-effect silicones. Calms and soothes the skin, blots away excess oil, and evens out skin redness. Improves the laydown and application of foundation.
We feel: While this formula contains some shimmer, those who love the almost-matte look are likely to love it, as it doesn’t make your face look too dewy or shiny. It does help your makeup stay in place longer, but isn’t so hot when it comes to oil control. Most suitable for dry skin.
Verdict: The cream is just too thick and isn’t very effective when it comes to an oily face.

6.) Too Faced: Prime and Poreless skin smoothing face primer

Price: B1,350
The claim: Suited as a base for powders, bronzers and for smoother, flawless skin.
We feel: As with all Too Faced products, Primed and Poreless comes in cute, feminine packaging. This primer creates a nice base for your makeup: your face looks brighter and it enhances your foundation. But it has no coverage whatsoever on pores, nor does it help your makeup stay in place longer. It makes your face look oily within a few hours of applying.
Verdict: The melted-face effect is not appealing.  
 

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Where to eat after the party’s over.

Sukhumvit Area

55 Pochana

Where hi-so and hipsters alike end up after partying in the area. The popular 55 Pochana sits at the beginning of the soi, with every dish made-to-order. The must-tries are the ped pad kraprao (stir-fried duck and basil) and dok kajon pad kai (stir-fried flowers with egg, B80) which is very flavorful and comes with chewy glass noodles. Be warned, though, service can sometimes be a little gruff. Seafood is another good pick in their super-spicy basics: cockles, oysters, clams, prawns. They have it all.
1087-1093 Sukhumvit Rd., (in front of Soi Thonglor) 02-391-2021. Open daily 5pm-3am

24 Owls by Sometime’s

The folks at Sometime’s (previously in Sukhumvit Soi 71) recently opened this 24-hour café that is sure to soothe any late-night pasta craving you may have. Set in a house with a nice garden, choose from the spaghetti tobiko (B220) or snow fish steak with butter and lemon sauce (B420). You can also nestle into one of their knick-knack-packed corners for a Hitachino craft beer (B190-B240) or two.
39/9 Ekkamai Soi 12, 02-391-4509. Open daily 24 hours.

Angel City Diner

Perfect for Soi 11 revelers on the comedown; roll up your sleeves and tuck into the Angel Burger (patty, blue, cheddar and Swiss cheese, bacon, caramelized onion, mayo, B399) or chili cheese burger (Texas beef chili, jalapeno and cheddar, B349) in the classic 24-hour American diner setting. Other dishes on offer include roast turkey (B349) and reuben sandwiches (B349), as well as wee-hour choices like the breakfast burrito (B299) and corned beef hash (B199).
Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3313. angelcitydiner.com. Open daily 6pm-7am

Greenhouse

Nothing beats a piping hot bowl of congee after all that booze binging. This 24-hour restaurant serves up a variety of velvety congee (B150). The patongko (deep-fried dough, B65) is the other great draw, giving the experience a crack-of-dawn breakfast feel. Proximity to the BTS can be a huge plus if you are still eating come 5:45am.
The Landmark, 138 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-254-0404 ext. 1405. BTS Nana).

New Srifa 33

This fourth generation mom-and-pop kao tom shop does delicious and greasy hoy jor poo (deep-fried crab dumplings with plum sauce). While you’re waiting, go for their quick and fulfilling muu pad namlieb (fried pork with salted olives, B80) and the ever-dependable pla neung manao (steamed fish with lime sauce, B100).
12/19 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-258-2649. Open daily 5pm-4am. www.newsrifa33.com

Rex Hotel

By now, you should be able to navigate all the delicious food stalls on Soi 38 with your eyes closed, but if you’re seeking something a little less street-level, but still crave some comforting khao tom gui (rice porridge with side dishes), try the Rex Hotel. The hotel’s dodgy appearances aside, most of the gub khao (side dishes) here are tasty, particularly the ped palo (braised duck with Chinese herbs, B110) and yam pla salid (spicy salad with fish, B90).
Sukhumvit Rd. (opposite Soi 45), 02-259-0106. Open daily 24 hours.

Ari Area

Jay Liab

Spot the red plastic chairs near Phyathai Hospital and you’ve found Jay Liab, the street-side stall renowned for its seafood, especially its yam poo dong (fermented raw crab in spicy salad, B300). It’s sour and spicy, with incredibly fresh crab—despite the light fermentation process.
Next to Phyathai Hospital, Phaholyothin Rd., 02-619-8639. Open daily 6pm-3am

Lao Lao

This Chinese institution has been an Ari mainstay for more than 30 years now. Not only do we love its opening times, but the dishes here are very well-prepared. The classic atmosphere—big round tables and lots of noise from chatty patrons and TV—add to the signature dishes like nam liab moo sub pla kem (stir-fried pork with Chinese olives, B100), yam poo kai dong (fermented raw crab in spicy salad, B230) and all the wonderfully crisp and fresh stir-fried vegetables.
Phaholyonthin Rd., 086-6268614, 02-271-2256, 02-271-4260. BTS Ari. Open daily 4pm-4am

Silom Area

25 Degrees

Swanky US chain 25 Degrees specializes in burgers. But to be honest, what we really like about the place are the desserts—pancakes, toast and waffles served with a bowl of fruit to balance things. All are worth the calories and prices (B140-B250), just make sure you have company as portions are huge. Seat yourself amid the upscale diner setting and order one of their delectable adults-only spiked shakes (B250) while you’re at it.
G/F, Pullman G Hotel, 188 Silom Rd., 02-238-1991. Open daily 24 hours.

Too Fast to Sleep

If you have too much alcohol in your blood, head to Too Fast to Sleep, another 24-hour café, for a wake-up call in the form of a steaming cup of coffee. The cute library-like place serves coffee from B80 and cake from B120.
Rama 4 Rd., 086-577-8989. MRT Sam Yan. Open daily 24 hrs.

Hong Teong Long

Hong Teong Long is a small hole-in-the-wall that does seriously impressive food. The menu is packed with Cantonese favorites, namely dumplings, mien (Chinese noodles) and stir-fried selections. We highly recommend the mien with super tender beef (B60) and the salapao (Chinese buns, B100) which burst in your mouth with just the right saltiness, sweetness and spiciness for a post-drinking feed.
Surawong Rd., 02-235-9075. Open daily 11-4am

Ramentei

Make friends with the masses of salarymen who frequent this Japanese favorite. The reason they (and you) are all here is because Ramentei’s katsu curry (B320) is among the best in town—the pork’s perfectly battered and tender throughout, while the curry is rich and flavorful. If your stomach’s a bit tender after a big night, do note that portions are absolutely massive.
23/8-9 Soi Thaniya, Silom Rd.,  02-234-8082. Open daily 11-2am

Souvlaki Greek Grill

If Silom is your district of debauchery, Souvlaki offers a welcome change from Burger King. The menu features a no-frills souvlaki sandwich (B55-95, depending on the meat) or more elaborate Greek classics, like moussaka (layered minced meat casserole with bechamel sauce, B350).
Soi 4, Silom Rd., 02-632-9967-8. BTS Sala Daeng. Open Mon-Sat 11am-2am

SIAM

Marina HK

Take shelter in this Hong Kong style tea house when even the late night joints have thrown you out, and you’re down to your last few satang. Eighty percent of the menu is under B100, and ninety-eight percent under B200. The menu ranges from congee (B38) to bbq pork ribs (B88 for medium) and Isaan treats.
21/1-6, Siam Square Soi 1, Rama 1 Rd., 02-251-1968. BTS Siam. Open 24 hrs.

Old Town Area

Iam Pochana

Considering all the street food on Yaowarat Road, Iam Pochana might be a little far-flung, but it’s still a great ping-yang (BBQ) place to go after midnight. With good food at great prices, Iam Pochana has been going strong for over 60 years. The beef (B170) is tender and delicious, plus the seafood dipping sauce is super tasty.
215/2-3 Soi 22 Kalakada 1, Maitreejitr Rd., 02-225-0582. Open daily 4pm-4am

Jay Fai

At B300-plus a dish, prices might not be what you’re used to paying for street food, but taste Jay Fai’s rad na (noodles with gravy sauce, B380) and you’ll understand why people keep coming back at all hours. The dish truly is a killer combination of seafood with crispy noodles prepared three ways.
327 Mahachai Rd., 02-223-9384. Open Mon-Sat 3pm-2am

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Forget preppy; get the punk look with this rebellious garb.

Izzue black jacket, Price TBA. 2/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1568. BTS Siam.

Lucky 13 old bike patch wallet, B1,600. 2/F (Lido Theater), Siam Square, Rama 1Rd., 086-300-0051. BTS Siam.

Dr. Martens 1490 Classic 10-Eye Boot, B7,200. 5/F, Zen Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-100-9999.

Zara studded travel bag, B4,990. 2/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-9860. BTS Siam.

H&M sleeveless shirt, B799. 2/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-6700. BTS Siam.

Cheap Monday Narrow Black Ice, B3,000. Pronto, Siam Square Soi 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-251-7448. BTS Siam.

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An anthropological study of the different crowds shaping our nightlife scenes and how to fit right in: what to say, wear, listen to—and where it’s all happening.

 

Dek Hiso

Where: Mellow, Clouds, St. Regis Bar, Zuma, Falabella, The Bar & The Restaurant and Grease.
Most likely to overhear them say:
Guys:
“Do you know who my dad is?”
Girls: “Oh my God, her Chanel is so a fake.”
Most likely to fight over: A parking spot for their BMW.
Soundtrack: Everything from a live band doing popsanova covers of Thai and inter hits to some groovy house from DJs, just so long as it’s at the right place and price.
Drink: Overpriced Johnnie Walker Black Label to drink with even more overpriced mixers. Prosecco, Chandon and beer? Oh, please!
Who: Channel [V] VJ Pita Na Patalung, makeup artist Peary Pie, publishing heir Dan Hetrakul

 

 

 

The  Gen-Y Hipsters

Where: Moose, Badmotel, WTF and Fat Bird    
Most likely to overhear them say:
Guys:
“I sold my fixie to buy a turntable.” Girls: “Yeah, I know Two Door Cinema Club are coming in November, but they’ve gone mainstream now.”
Most likely to fight over: Whose favorite band has less likes on Facebook or plays on YouTube.
Soundtrack: ZudRangma's rare retro selections, ironic 80s-90s tunes, and those super underground bands you’ve probably never heard of.
Drink: Cocktails with a faux working class attitude, like Bad Company at Badmotel (home-made ya dong served on a wooden tray with honey and pickled grape) or the cute and tasty Yellow Submarine at Moose, served in a jam jar (of course). Failing that, nothing disaffectedly utters “now” like an American craft beer.
Who: Cartoonist Kathy MacLeod, WTF's Somrak Sila, party boy Note Dudesweet, rocker Tul Apartmentkhunpa and DJ Maft Sai

 

 

The Mid-Life Crisis Crowd

Where: Maggie Choo’s, the Water Library Thonglor’s bar, Quince and Scarlett.
Most likely to overhear them say:
Guys:
“If she asks, we just had dinner.”
Girls: “Why are all the good men gay?”
Most likely to fight over: Who has the best cocktails.
Soundtrack: David Bowie's new album, The Next Day.
Drink: Any wine as long as they can say they know/fucked/had dinner with/punched the winemaker.
Who: Maggie Choo's Ashley Sutton, Bed Supperclub's Sanya Souvannaphouma and Cafe Chili's Rica Dila

 

 

 

The Post-Naew

Where: Play Yard By Studio Bar, Ari, Popular Society or any little café down on Phra Artit or Khaosan.   
Most likely to overhear them say:
Guys:
“I saw the band play at Stone Free. They were so poetic and emotional, and the guitarist was something special. It’s an injustice that our society does not recognize such spell-binding talents. Can I have your Line?”
Girls: “I wish they served Singha at Toys R' Us.”
Most likely to fight over: Which Instagram filter most creatively captures the evening’s joie de vivre.
Soundtrack: Live music from local up-and-coming unsigned indie bands playing their own stuff. No covers.  
Drink: Anything cheap, from local beers in big bottles or 3-liter towers; bottles of Sangsom, 100 Pipers or JW Red Label to share.  
Who: Pok Stylish Nonsense, Two Million Thanks and Yellow Fang's Preawa  

 

 

The Trashed

Where: Not confined to any single place, but determined to follow their beloved party organizers like Trasher, Dudesweet or Club Soma to the ends of the earth. And end the night at Wong's.  
Most likely to overhear them say:
Guys:
“I'd shag him.”
Girls: “I'd shag him.”
Most likely to fight over: The good looking boy who no one saw arrive with his boyfriend.
Soundtrack: From trashy 90s hits and pop divas to Britpop and hip electro, depending on the theme of the night.   
Drink: A vodka Red Bull followed by tequila shots all washed down with a Tiger Beer.
Who:  Jojo Trasher, Aom Siripan
 

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Returning events to look out for in the coming months.

Design Film Festival
More arty gems by the likes of Marina Abramovic and Gergory Crewdson at this year’s edition. It’s great that the much-loved fest has decided to come home after successful editions in Berlin, Bangkok and Portland.

Singapore Food Festival
Sample local heritage delicacies tapas-style and enjoy a one-of-a-kind dining experience at the River Safari­—the first time that the fest will be held at an unexpected venue.

Phantom of the Opera
Worth the ticket price alone for its hypnotic set—look out for the twirling giant chandeliers.

Sundown Ultra Marathon
Back after a year’s absence, the overnight race is set to flag-off at the Marina Barrage, where dedicated runners can push their physical prowess to new heights by racing in the 100km Ultra-Marathon.

Singapore Biennale
This year’s theme is “If The World Changed”, with a confirmed lineup including filmmakers Royston Tan and Boo Junfeng and Cultural Medallion recipient Lee Wen.

Singapore Writers’ Festival
We had The Hours’ Michael Cunningham last year; this year will feature philosopher A.C. Grayling and crime novelist Peter James.

Affordable Art Fair
Far and away the best art fair if you’re looking for works by emerging artists, with many priced below $1,000.

ZoukOut 2013
Still the most reliable dance gig and beach party in town.


 

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From white colonnades and marble floors to oak wood furniture and crystal chandeliers, these iconic hotels’ Victorian charms are impossible to resist.

Galle Face Hotel (Colombo, Sri Lanka)

Since: 1864
Perhaps the oldest colonial hotel in Asia, it opened in 1864 next to the Galle Face Green, a sprawling lawn by the ocean which gave it its name. Today the hotel features 147 rooms in two wings: Classic and Regency, and has previously hosted famous guests like astronaut Yuri Gagarin, actor Roger Moore and US president Richard Nixon. The hotel has a whopping nine restaurants and four bars but the must-do highlight is taking high tea at the hotel’s veranda overlooking the Indian Ocean.

From US$360 [S$444] (US$141 [S$178] on Agoda).  

Hotel Continental Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam)

Since: 1880

This famous hotel in Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon) sits at a prime location on Dong Khoi Street, HCMC’s shopping and business district within short walking distance to shopping malls, the gorgeous Louis Vuitton flagship store, Ho Chi Minh Monument and the Opera House. Eighty guestrooms and suites are housed behind its French-colonial-style facade, which has recently been renovated.

From US$104 (S$128).  

Penang, Malaysia

Eastern & Oriental Hotel
Since: 1885
The first property of the Sarkies brothers, a hotelier family who pioneered a number of hotels in Southeast Asia, including Raffles Singapore and The Strand Yangon, the Eastern & Oriental Hotel was built to serve rich merchants and travelers when Penang was the first British port in the region. The hotel’s location at the harbor front of Georgetown means it’s just a short walk to Fort Cornwallis, the City Hall and Penang State Museum. Eastern & Oriental went through a major renovation from 1996-2001 and is now home to 100 well-appointed suites in its Heritage Wing and an additional 122 modern rooms and suites at the Victory Annex. Famous guests include writer Rudyard Kipling, actor Charlie Chaplin and pop superstar Michael Jackson.   

From RM640 (S$268) for Heritage Wing and from RM580 (S$243) for Victory Annexe.  

Mandarin Oriental Bangkok (Bangkok, Thailand)

Since: 1876

Mandarin Oriental Bangkok is one of the longest-running hotels in Asia, though the Author’s Wing, home to the Author’s Lounge and a collection of suites named after world famous writers, is the only remaining 19th-century structure. Bamboo Bar opened in 1947 while Le Normandie turns 55 this year. The hotel also had Thailand’s first elevator in its Garden Wing.

From B10,950 (S$456)

Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi (Hanoi, Vietnam)

Since: 1901

With a classic French-colonial facade and a terrace where you can sit back in a lounge chair and watch the streets, just ignore the buzz of the motorcycles and you might feel like you’re back in Paris circa 1930. After several renovations and additions, this legendary hotel, which has welcomed guests like actors Charlie Chaplin and Jane Fonda, now features 364 rooms and 22 suites decked out in a neo-renaissance theme. Moreover, the Hanoi Opera House is only 100 meters away, as well as several other main attractions.

From US$200 (S$246)

The Strand (Yangon, Burma)

Since: 1901

The Strand is another hotel started by the Sarkies brothers at the height of the British empire, following on from the success of its sisters in Penang and Singapore. The Victorian-influenced mansion is set on Strand Road, overlooking the Yangon River. As Myanmar’s most luxurious hotel, it has witnessed the country’s troubled past and was only open to white guests until World War II. Then came financial struggles, various owners, coup d’etats and a general lack of renovations throughout the 1950-80s. The Strand was reopened in 1993 and renovated into an all-suite hotel with 24-hour butler service. Even if you are not staying there, we highly recommend their afternoon high tea.

From US$226-278 (S$278-S$372, depending on agents).  

Manila Hotel (Manila, The Philippines)

Since: 1912

Built by the Americans after they acquired The Philippines from Spain, Manila Hotel sits on the grand Roxas Boulevard, facing Rizal Park, a memorial park named after a national hero, with Manila Bay to its back. After a major renovation in 2008, its 570 rooms now feature local decor touches, meaning Spanish-influenced architecture using local materials like natural linens and rattan. Manila Hotel has hosted numerous American stars and politicians, including Michael Jackson and John F. Kennedy.

From PHP7,999 (S$239).  

The Majestic (Malacca, Malaysia)

Since: circa 1920s

Malacca has come a long way, arguably too far, since it became a UNESCO World Heritage City in 2008 and is now a mega tourist hub. But a visit to The Majestic will let you turn back the clock to when it was just a simple port town welcoming Chinese, Tamil, Arab and Western merchants. Although all 54 rooms and suites are now housed in a modern tower, the original mansion built around 1920 still serves as a lobby, library and restaurant. Its charming Peranakan architectural details, with classic porcelain, teakwood furnishings and artifacts on exhibit, are best enjoyed in the library.

From RM390 (S$163).  

Hotel Majestic Kuala Lumpur (Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia)

Since: 1932

The Hotel Majestic was the classiest hotel in town when it first opened in 1932, welcoming jetsetters and socialites. But after World War II, it experienced a decline and was closed down in 1984. Last year, it came back to life after a head-to-toe renovation. The facade and its classic timber floors are preserved while minimal furnishings with an art-deco feel, now decorate the rooms in both of the two buildings—modern comforts included.

From RM650 (S$272).  

Settha Palace (Vientiane, Laos)

Since: 1932

Settha Palace is Vientiane’s most charming accommodation and lies in the heart of the city. Lush trees and gardens hide this French-colonial mansion, once a residence of a wealthy Lao family, from the bustling streets nearby. With both rooms and suites, the hotel evokes La Belle Epoque through its marble and teak wood furnishings. That’s also the name of its restaurant, one of the city’s most charming spots to enjoy French cuisine along with a fine selection of wines.

From US$220 (S$271).  

 

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