A Week-Long Guide to Bangkok's Best Dinner Buffets
Sunday brunches aren’t the only fancy buffets out there. Here’s where to pig out for dinner any evening of the week.
Sun-Thu: International buffet dinner at Romsai at B1,472 from 6-10:30pm.
21/100 South Sathon Rd., 02-679-1200. Open daily 12-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm
Wed: The Pavilion offers a French buffet dinner at B1,888 (with two glasses of red wine) with dishes including lobster thermidor and pan-fried foie gras from 6:30-10:30pm.
946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000. Open daily 6am-11pm
Daily: International buffet at B1,300 including white and red wines from 6-10:30pm at Atelier.
30 Sukhumvit Soi 21 (Asoke), 02-204-4161. Open daily 6am-10:30pm
Sun-Thu: International buffet at Espresso at B1,482 from 6-10:30 pm.
973 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-0444. Open daily 12-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm
Thu-Tue: Riverside Terrace offers a long line of buffet options by the river at B2,766 from 7-10:30pm.
48 Oriental Ave., 02-659-9000. Open daily 7-11pm
Tue-Sat: 7-course set Thai dinner at B777 together with a performance by Patravadi Theatre at Maya.
123 Charoennakorn Rd., 02-442-2000. Open daily 7-9:30pm
Daily: International buffet at B950 (Thu at B1,050 with a seafood theme) from 6-10:30pm at The Square.
Siam Square Soi 6, 02-209-8888. Open daily 6:30-10:30pm
Daily: Korean buffet at B499 from 5:30-10pm at Kayageum.
444 MBK Center, Phayathai Road, 02-216-3700. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-10pm
Daily: Dine by the river with the international buffet at B2,120 at River Cafe & Terrace from 6-10:30pm.
333 Charoennakorn Rd., 02-861-2888. Open daily 6am-10:30pm
Tue: If you have no concern for carbs, try the pasta buffet at Wine Pub at B990 from 6-10pm.
Wed: Every Wed at Wine Pub, you’ll get to taste four different kinds of dishes containing foie gras from 6-10pm at B1,290.
8/2 Rangnam Rd., 02-680-9999. Open daily 6-2am
Sun-Thu: The Rain Tree Cafe offers a huge array of offerings from the interactive love cooking and massive buffet lines at B1,600 without booze from 6-10:30pm.
61 Wireless Rd., 02-650-8800. Open daily 6am-midnight
Mon-Thu: International buffet with free flow wines at B2,650 (B1,450 without booze) from 6-10:30pm at Orchid Cafe.
250 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-649-8368. Open daily 12-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm
Thu-Sat: Get wasted with Decanter’s B665 wine buffet with free-flow red, white, rose and Prosecco. The deal also includes unlimited cold cuts and cheese. Available till June from 7-10pm.
159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-207-7777. Open daily 5pm-1am
Daily: Looking for some indulgence? Try the Cocoa Rush Hour (B750) chocolate buffet at Chocolab, which includes soft drinks from 4-5:30pm.
Daily: With its concept of a world food market, Red Oven lets you taste a multitude of cuisines at B1,200 for the buffet dinner.
2 North Sathorn Rd., 02-624-0000. Open daily 7am-8pm (Chocolab), 6:30am-10:30pm (Red Oven)
Mon-Sat: Overlooking the skytrain, Vie Wine & Grill offers an international buffet at B1,119 from 6:30-10:30pm.
117/39-40 Phaya Thai Rd., 02-309-3939. Open daily 6:30am-10:30pm
See more lunch deals at bit.ly/PDh4cn and brunch deals at bit.ly/QqgRpO.
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You’ve probably walked past this little shop countless times when strolling around Digital Gateway. Step inside and you’ll quickly realize Munkong Gadget has a keen ear when it comes to importing top headphone brands. Not only are the staff knowledgeable, but almost every model is available for you to test before buying. The big names here are the likes of Klipsch, AKG, Soul and Sennheiser. Headphones start from B390.
3/F, Digital Gateway, Rama 1 Rd., 02-623-4143. BTS Siam. www.munkonggadget.com
Open three years now, Jet Live Audio’s vast selection of headphone brands is what keeps us coming back. Forget Sony, Beats and Urbanears, and think the likes of Westone, Audio Technica, Etymotic and Koss. The shop carries headphones from over 20 manufacturers and is quick on the draw to get in new and rare models. Prices may be a tad high, but for big names revered among audiophiles, they’re pretty fair. Headphones start from B790 and if you’re not sure what to get, the shop has tons of models for you to try.
2/F, Exchange Tower, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-663-7009. BTS Asoke/MRT Sukhumvit. www.jetliveaudio.com
Situated down in Asoke, Dynamic Thailand is the authorized importer of renowned earphone manufacturers Monster, Sol Republic and Ultimate Ears. The small shop carries the latest models from these big brands before anyone else. You can try them out first and get advice from the friendly and well-informed staff. And if you’re looking to buy Sol Republic’s customized accessories, Dynamics Thailand is fully stocked. Headphones start from B2,590.
255 Sukhumvit Soi 21, 02-664-3077. BTS Asoke/MRT Sukhumvit
You might have to go as far as Ladprao, but trust us 2J Gadget is worth the commute. This simple shop, decked out in all-white, is all about headphones with punchy bass, like Monster, Shure, Sennheiser and Marshall. Why come here? The shop carries lots of models, even old ones, with price tags that put the department stores to shame. The owner does a lot of headphone reviews and can definitely give you some good advice. Take a seat and try their different models before getting out your wallet. Headphones start from B1,090.
4/F, Union Mall, Ladprao Rd., 081-487-5407. MRT Phaholyothin. www.2jgadget.com
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It might be Thailand’s second biggest island but its out-of-the-way location down by the Cambodian border means Koh Chang still offers the chance to get off the beaten track a little. Accessible only by ferry from nearby Trat, its soaring jungle-clad peaks and sweeping beaches make it an ideal destination for an island escape.
By far the busiest beach on the island, and the closest to the ferry, White Sands is home to the highest concentration of resorts and guesthouses. As a result, it can get very crowded, even though the sand is not exactly the whitest we’ve seen. Still, the long curving beach and shallow waters mean it remains popular, especially with foreign tourists, and is a particularly good destination for families. It’s also a nice spot to head to after dark, when the beach gets filled with the tables and chairs of the various restaurants. While they all offer similar menus of inter favorites, Thai classics and BBQ seafood, we particularly like the dishes at Mac Resort & Hotel (www.mac-resorthotel.com), recognizable by the cute heart-shaped lamps out front, and the slightly more formal Kacha Resort (www.kacharesortandspa.com). After watching the sun go down and indulging in some fresh seafood, you can head along to 15 Palms (White Sand Beach, 039-551-095, www.15palms.com). This popular nightspot offers a choice between puffing on a shisha on the supersized bean bags out on the sand or sampling their great selection of imported beers and ciders on the plush leather sofas inside. Or you can just numb the senses with the delicious offerings at the attached ice cream bar.
Those who want a slightly quieter beach experience may be better off heading further south to Klong Prao, which while home to a few high-end resorts, also boasts some long stretches of completely undeveloped coast. The beach is testament to this; it’s wonderfully quiet, home to a multitude of rock pools teeming with marine life. While long walks are the obvious pleasure here, you can also get more adventurous and hire a kayak (try the Centara) and strike out for the small collection of islands that dot the bay. Dining-wise there are a limited range of eateries, with most based in the bigger resorts. However, we strongly recommend making the trek down to the quiet Tiger Huts restaurant (38/24 Moo 4 Klong Prao, Klong Prao Beach, 089-833-1503, 084-109-9660). The sunset view from the wooden terrace is gorgeous and we think their fish cooked with garlic and pepper is the best we’ve taste in Thailand.
A mecca for the multitude of backpackers doing the Asian tour, Lonely Beach is the party central of the island. Despite the hype, the relatively small beach is not that impressive with a large rocky stretch at one end. Still there are a couple of good places to eat and a growing number of high-end boutique-style resorts (see Essentials) to be found on the quieter stretches of sand. If you drop by to ogle the backpackers then the most popular spot for people to gather to eat, drink and listen to the obligatory reggae tunes is Nature Rocks, the beachfront restaurant of Nature Beach Resort (98 Moo 4, Lonely Beach / Bai Lan Bay), which offers a broad mix of Thai and inter dishes.
If you want to get away from the sand for a while and sample some seafood, and are happy to tackle the roads, head to the southern tip of the island for Koh Chang’s main fishing port. (It’s also where you’ll catch the various snorkel and scuba dive tours and the speedboats to nearby islands like Koh Wai, Koh Mak and Koh Kood.) The narrow, slightly creaky pier is home to restaurants and cafes (Chow Lay Seafood 40/1 Moo 1, Bangbao, 039-558-118 is perhaps our pick for seafood), some cute guesthouses and, amid all the tacky souvenir stalls, some charming little stores like Peace Moon (www.peace-moon.com) where you can watch them hand-making their selection of jewellery and leather crafts. Wander past the dive boats to the end of the pier and, if you’re feeling brave, head up the metal steps to the top of the lighthouse for some impressive views.
Due to its geography, pretty much all of the beaches on Koh Chang are situated on the west coast of the island, which is much more developed. If you want to get away from the crowds, a trip to the west coast promises solitude and some spectacular views over to the Thai and Cambodian mainlands. There’s also the chance to visit a couple of lesser-known waterfalls like Than Mayom (near the Government Office) and Klong Nung, the mangrove forest walkway at Salak Khok, and the charming temple and quaint fishing village at Salak Phet. If you get hungry during your explorations, visit the seafood places down at Salak Phet. Still, we’d suggest stopping off at a really eclectic restaurant about half-way down the island called Paradise Behind the Sea (22/22 Ang Kong Kang, 081-900-2388. Open daily 8:30am-9:30pm). Perched on the edge of a cliff, it offers great views, decent Thai and Vietnamese food and a really quirky space filled with authentic Thai antiques and mismatched furniture. The toilets are particularly worthy of a visit and the coffee is way above average.
Koh Chang is covered in thick tropical rainforest and what better way to truly experience the greenery than by clambering through the tree tops. Tree Top Adventure Park (115 Moo 1, Koh Chang Tai, 084-310-7600. Open daily 9am-5pm) offers the chance to tackle almost three kms of rope bridges, tarzan swings, and giant zip lines, all while hanging 20m above the ground in the jungle canopy. The center, which also operates in Pattaya and Krabi, has been running since 2007 and uses equipment that’s passed international safety standards, so you can just worry about the vertigo while leaping, surfing and even cycling from tree-to-tree. Prices start from B1,100) including hotel transfers and refreshments.
Air
Bangkok Airways offer three flights daily to the small airport of Trat, around a 20-minute drive from the main ferry port at Ao Thammachat, sometimes called Ao Sapparot.
Road
The other option, is to drive yourself, or get the bus from Bangkok which takes around 5-6 hours. Buses leave from Mo Chit and Ekkamai terminals and cost B248.
Ferry
Combined car and passenger ferries to the island run from 6:30am-7pm and the crossing takes around 30 minutes. It costs B80 per person and B120 for a car. Note that while they are regular, you can experience long waits to get your car on during holidays.
Be prepared for some of the most vertiginous and hair-raising roads we’ve seen. Songthaew (covered pickups) do ply these routes (fares from B30) and can be flagged down just about anywhere. Motorbikes and scooters are incredibly easy to hire but due to the treacherous driving conditions we’d really recommend sticking to the pickups.
Where to Stay High-End: Centara Koh Chang
Renovated last year, this member of the Thai hotel chain offers a choice of modern rooms and quaint tropical cottages, all set in a beautifully landscaped garden. It also boasts an excellent location at one end of Klong Prao Beach, two pools, a kids club, a beach bar, which screens films nightly, a beachside restaurant and a branch of the respected SPA Cenvaree (www.spacenvaree.com). From B2,380. 26/3 Moo 4, Klong Prao beach, 039-557-122. www.centarahotelsresorts.com/CKC
Boutique: Warapura Resort
Sat on a quiet stretch of Lonely Beach, this small resort has just 20 rooms but packs plenty of character into its five different room types which range from Cozy Villas (from B1,500) to Seaside Villas (from B2,250). There’s also a large Central pool, a spa and a seaside restaurant. 4/3 Moo 1, Kohchang Tai, 039-558-123. www.warapuraresort.com
Budget: KP Hut
While Lonely Beach offers plenty of budget options, we prefer KP Huts on Klong Prao Beach. Accessed down a bumpy dirt track, it offers very basic huts in the garden with or without bathroom (B400/B700) or, if you’re lucky, try and grab one of the quirky, brightly painted huts on stilts that hang precariously over the beach (B700, no bathroom). There’s also a restaurant on-site. Moo 4, Klong Phrao Beach, 084-077-5995
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Mango Mezcal Margarita
Comprising Peloton mezcal, mango juice, lime and sugar, this frozen cocktail is dispensed from an old school slushie machine. Beverage manager at Pistola Hannah Waters says, “You just mix the drink up in a bucket—the machine does all the churning for you—and couple of hours later you have 10-11 drinks.”
$14 at Pistola
Rockmelon + Orange + Nigori Sake + Hendrick’s Gin
This fruity tipple incorporates smooth rockmelon sorbet made with a hi-tech Pacojet machine. It’s mixed with sweet unfiltered nigori sake and Hendrick’s gin for a real kick.
$20 at The Naked Finn
Salted Caramel Martini
Häagen-Dazs salted caramel ice cream is enriched with French caramel toffee liqueur and spiked with Grey Goose vodka for this rich glassful. A layer of Himalayan pink salt foam prevents the whole thing from being cloying. Sip it up quick as this limited-edition cocktail is only on offer till the end of May.
$25 at Maison Ikkoku
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A couple of years ago, we were just happy to be able to afford a bottle of wine at a restaurant (thank you Wine Connection) or find the odd bottle of Beerlao Dark. Oh, how Bangkok’s grown! From craft beers to ever-more-exciting bar nibbles and boutique wines, drinking has never been quite this fun. So here, we present you with the 28 reasons why we haven’t gone sober in weeks.
Where Bangkok used to be a veritable desert for decent beers it’s now experiencing a flood of amazing global craft options. You can now enjoy Rogue and Anderson Valley from America, the punk-inspired ales and bitters of Brewdog from Scotland, Hitachino from Japan, fresh draught offerings from Brewerkz in Singapore and a whole range of options like Norrebo Bryghus and Skovlyst from Denmark at venues all over the city. Top spots to imbibe this welcome trend include Brew Beers and Cider (G/F, Seenspace, Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2366), Smith (1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-261-0515-6), Beerology (2/F, Crystal Design Center, Praditmanoontham Rd., 081-553-1718), Beerosophy 101 (1/F, Mega Bangna, Bang Na-Trat Km.8, 081-085-4876), BeerVault (Four Points by Sheraton, Sukhumvit Soi 15, 02-309-3000) and Niche Beer Ville (482 Praditmanoontham Rd., 02-515-1232-3, see #24).
Not sure if you’re thirsty for a Sidecar or a Manhattan? Just tell Italian mixologist Mirko Gardelliano how fast you’d like to get smashed, your favorite color or the state of your relationship and he’ll conjure up a unique recipe on the spot to mend your heart, wake you up or mellow you out. From B200-B450. Water Library Thonglor. The Grass Thonglor, 264/1 Thonglor Rd., 02-714-9292-3. ww.mywaterlibrary.com. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-1am.
The global buzz over Riesling wine seems to have only just reached Thailand’s shores. “Riesling is always neglected, but it’s actually the perfect pairing with Thai food and the climate here. The weather in our country does not suit sipping shiraz,” says Worasin Pintong, a Riesling importer (www.itsriesling.com) who brings over about 30 selections from Europe and recommends Saar Riesling (B1,080) and Donnhoff's Niederhaeuser Hermannshoehle GG Riesling (B3,280). His wines are available at places like Okura, Erawan Hyatt, Honmono or In the Mood for Love.
While Thai food has been the hottest thing on the dining scene for a while now, it’s taken Badmotel to bring a touch of street-style drinking to a bar. Try the Never Say Never (B220), which is pink Hale’s Blue Boy milk mixed with rum and served with dessert condiments like sweet corn, grass jelly and coconut jelly or the Bad Company (B220), their homemade ya dong served with honey and pickled grape. Next to J-Avenue, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (between Thonglor Soi 15 and 17), 02-712-7288. Open daily 5pm-1am.
For all the prohibition chic trends, the latest bar by Ashley Sutton (Iron Fairies, Fat Gut’z) is the first to actually deliver on the era’s best feature (no, not moonshine). With a not-so-secret-now-that-we’re-telling-you passageway running around the main room, Maggie Choo’s is the perfect spot to play cards, run from the law or hide from your jealous ex. Cocktails from B340. Beer B165. Whisky from B240 a glass. Underground of Hotel Novotel Bangkok Fenix Silom, 320 Silom Rd., 02-635-6055. Open daily 6pm-1am.
Get to Ogu Ogu from 5-7pm when you can get three draft beers for B390 or, even better, order three different sake (B550 for three 150ml carafes, B990 after 7pm) served with nibbles like lotus chips and edamame; a great introduction to their lengthy and well-annotated sake list. We also like their martinis (B250), which still taste like the real deal despite the addition of creative ingredients like yuzu sake. G/F, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Witthayu (Wireless) Rd., 02-108-2255. BTS Ploenchit. Opening Mon-Thu 11:30am-10pm; Fri-Sun 11:30am-midnight.
The Flow boys may be justifiably famous for their stiff cocktails, particularly their clean executions of classics like the Negroni or dry Martini (B295). But it's Hyde & Seek’s short menu of tasty nibbles that keep us from falling off our bar stools, particularly the crispy tapenade toast with a touch of ricotta cheese (B295). Athenee Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruam Rudee, 02-168-5152-3. Open daily 11am-1am
It’s hard to beat the twin pleasures of puffing on a big fat Perdomo cigar from Nicaragua (cigars range from B400-B1,200) while sipping a 14-year-old single malt from the Bowmore distillery on the Isle of Islay, perched up in the North of Scotland (B810 for a shot, B7,500 for a bottle). And now with the opening of Whisgars, sat at the back of long-term Italian restuarant Giusto on Soi 23, you don’t have to don a three-piece suit or belong to a member’s club to enjoy such decadent delights. 3/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-661-3220. whisgars.com. Open daily 12pm-midnight
Just head to the Facebook page of the uber-hip W Hotel and click “like.” Then head down to their glamorous muay Thai meets glam rock-inspired Woo Bar to get free-flow sparkling wine from 7-10pm every Wednesday until the end of June. Guys, don’t get too downhearted: they do a deal on potent bowl-sized G&Ts (B200) for you on Thursdays, too. 106 North Sathorn Rd., 02-344-4000. BTS Chongnonsi. Open daily 9am-midnight
Le Derriere’s delightfully convincing art nouveau French décor evokes Toulouse Lautrec paintings—and the accompanying syphilis and dementia. The iced water dripped over a sugar cube into a large, chiseled glass of absinthe, B350-690. Probably the best selection and service in town. Get in through Q Bar, 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-252-5366. BTS Nana. Open daily 9pm-3am
There still aren’t that many places where you can enjoy a good selection of affordable wines in this town. There are even less that offer such a high-end vibe as Scarlett, which sits atop the stylish Pullman Bangkok Hotel G. Bottles start from B790 and there’s a long choice by the glass from B150-B270. You’ll need to get there early, though, if you want to snag one of the coveted couches out on the gorgeous terrace. 37/F, Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 188 Silom Rd. 02-238-1991. Open daily 6pm-1am
It's not new but there are still few things better than getting pleasantly sloshed on a huge and potent bowl of mojito during the two-for-one-happy hour (5-8pm) deal at Tuba while snacking on their to-die-for larb moo tord (deep-fried pork with herbs, B160) amid all the retro bric a brac. 34 Ekkamai Soi 21, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-711-5500. Open daily 11am-midnight.
Those who have visited England in the summertime will know it’s hard to beat quaffing a pint of ale outdoors at night. Brew, Beers and Ciders (from B220) lets you sample bottled versions of classics like the rich and bitter London Pride or the light and refreshing Abbot Ale, while sat in the dreaming-of-English-country beer garden and staring at the pretty Thonglorites in the courtyard at Seenspace. G/F, Seen Space, Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2366. Open daily 4pm-2am
Grabbing a bottle of Tiger you really don't need from the fridge before turning to discuss the merits of the blurry 80s MV on-screen with the random creature of the night stood next to you at the infamous late-night drinking den Wong's Place. 27/3 Soi Sribamphen, Rama 4 Rd., 081-901-0235. Open daily 10pm-very late
No, we don’t mean crystal methamphetamine but the delicious and refreshing Print Ginger Mush slushie (vodka, ginger and lime, B220) offered as a complimentary taster at the chill little new Thonglor venue Print Bar. Opposite Ei8ht Thonglor, 159/10 Thonglor Rd., 085-782-1866. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-1:30am
It’s been around forever but we often find ourselves returning to old favorite Shades of Retro. Tucked down a tiny soi away from the bright lights of Thonglor, its eclectic knick-knack-filled décor, laidback vibe and friendly staff all make it a great chill spot to knock back a cold one while munching on their moreish complementary popcorn. Thonglor Soi 18, 02-174-9450 / 081-824-8011. Open daily 3pm-1am
OK, this can happen to anyone who is drunk enough, but new bar The Circus at CDC guarantees it, with their full-on carnival theme—right down to the staff who don a whole host of Barnum and Bailey-style outfits. They also boast an impressive variety of absinthe (starting from B220) to enjoy either as part of a cocktail or on ice, as God intended, to help ensure a surreal but fun evening. Room Phase 2, CDC, Praditmanoontham Rd., 081-869-9393. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-2am
Karn Liangsrisuk of Escapade Burgers & Shakes recently welcomed former Hyde & Seek crew member Nawin Phimonrat to add even more inspiration to their drinks. That's a lot of top talent behind one single bar. 112 Phra Arthit Rd., 081-406-3773. Open Tue-Sun 4pm-midnight
Cellar 11 is very serious about their wine, with three dedicated rooms: the Moët & Chandon Grand Champagne Cellar, Penfolds Grange and the Allegrini Amarone. It’s one of the few places recommended by Joe Sriwarin, President of the Thailand Sommelier Association. “I recently visited Cellar 11 and I like the style and concept—it’s a cool place, but be prepared to spend big,” he says. There are a choice more than 1,000 wines, including 32 test bottles, and they also claim to have the largest Enomatic wine dispensing system in Thailand. 71/1 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 086-990-8642, 02-255-5833-5. Open daily 6pm-midnight.
We love D’Sens and its adjoining bar—superb service, amazing food, a stylish décor —but we have to admit the most fun bit is spending a penny at the men’s urinal while enjoying the spectacular view of the park. Even better is their current deal which runs until the end of June and offers daily buy-one-get-one-free on beer, wine, spirits, whisky and cocktails (6-8pm). 22/F Dusit Thani Hotel, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000. MRT Silom. BTS Sala Daeng. Open daily 9pm-1am
It’s hard enough getting a proper version of this typical Peruvian cocktail (B270-B350), but Above Eleven serves it up with a breathtaking view and some of our favorite bar food in town thrown in. If beef heart’s not your thing, try the ceviches (B450) or the Peruvian-influenced Japanese fare. 33/F, Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 083-542-1111. Open daily 6pm-2am
Film director by day, Jay Boccia just opened the gorgeous Bellino Wine Room & Boutique, which sports a décor inspired by the Italian island of Capri. They directly import around 50 labels of wines from many small vineyards at reasonable prices (some even cheaper than Villa Market!); for example, you can get a bottle of Bottega DOCG Prosecco at B600 or ask for the 2009 Rocca Frassinello Le Sughere (B2,160) that Boccia boasts is highly ranked by Wine Spectator magazine. This tiny spot also serves up a few tapas and Italian dishes, which Boccia likes to cooks at home, such as the delicious caprese salad (fresh mozzarella with olives and tomato, B350). M Place Mall, Thonglor Soi 13, 02-712-5446. Open Mon-Sat 12pm till late
Even with all the cheap wine flowing into Bangkok, we still have nothing against those fortunate enough to afford a B20,000 bottle of Domaine Bonneau du Martray, Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru. “It's one of the best white wines in the world!” enthuses Wisan Pijitbandan, a boutique importer (www.terroirwines.co.th) whose darling wine can now be found at Okura, 57 Wireless Rd., 02-687-9000.
One of the founding members of the Beer Lovers in Thailand community, Prasert “Geng” Sritaborvornpaiboon, furthered his passion by opening the massive Niche Beer Ville. With a European village theme, the venue offers a wonderful variety of imported beers, including all the now-expected craft ones, as well as unusual pop-up promotions (like free beers for Arsenal fans when the team wins). They plan to run a home brew school soon, too. 482 Praditmanoontham Rd., 02-515-1232-3. Open daily 4pm-midnight
If you like your drinking soundtrack a bit grittier, head to the music-centric hipster haunt, Moose. Brought to you by the team behind Cosmic Café and Sonic, this place is all about mashing together retro-chic décor, good music (from Britpop, 60s-80s rock and some electro-pop) and spicy gab gleam (Thai snacks to go with drinks). Drop by for their daily happy hour deal of buy-one-get-one-free on house wine, Asahi draught and classic cocktails from 5-8pm. 24 Ekkamai Soi 21, 02-108-9550. Open daily 5pm-1am.
Drop by the Japanese-themed Kinki on Mon-Sat 6-9pm for their happy hour buy-one-get-one-free deals including sake and shochu. Despite only modest views of the Sukhumvit skyline, this new rooftop venue makes for an airy urban escape, plus there are loads of regular DJ events, as their Facebook page (tiny.cc/midcww) attests. 6/F, Rainhill, Sukhumvit Soi 47, 02-261-7204. Open daily 6pm-midnight.
Originally from Singapore, the sport-friendly Brotzeit German Bier Bar and Restaurant just landed in Bangkok with, you guessed it, a big focus on German cuisine. Get a good seat in front of one of the big outdoor screens to catch the football match and try the tafelspitz (boiled beef with apple horseradish sauce, B440) and leg ham with emmentaler cheese (B280), all washed down with five different kinds of Paulaner draught beer (B250 for 0.5 liter). Thonglor Soi 10, 081-920-5929. Open daily 12pm-midnight
Le Beaulieu made Top Tables 2013 ('s Top 10) and you can now get Chef Herve Frerard's culinary magic in bite-sized portions, as adjoining bar LB Terrasse has finally rolled out a complete tapas menu which sounds amazing (and very, very French): mini andouillette sausages, croquettes made with Epoisse cheese, black olive tapenade and a dozen more such treats (B180-350, with cold cuts from B750-990). The cocktails ain't bad either, with a seasonal menu which currently features such delectations as the refreshing LB Cucumber Martini (B295). G/F, Athenee Office Tower, 63 Witthayu (Wireless) Rd., 02-168-8220-3. www.le-beaulieu.com. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-11:30pm
Jakob Rasmussen, the guy behind beer importer Hopsession, will tell you a good beer deserves a proper place at the dining table. Introduced with a special beer pairing dinner at hip gastro bar Little Beast (44/9-10 Thonglor Soi 13 02-185-2670), the beers of Bøgedal Bryghus, a small farm-cum-craft brewery in rural Denmark, are produced without the use of pumps, machines or temperature control, in tiny of batches of 350-700 bottles. Cheap it ain’t, at B1,500 a 75cl bottle, but the results are unpasteurized and unhomogenized goodness that’s to be savored like a wine. You’ll have to be quick, though, Hopsession only has 1,500 bottles to sell per year. Bøgedal is also available at: BREW Beers & Ciders, Admirals Pub and White Beer'd.
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Kiintim strikes a good balance of flavor: sweet and creamy with a real taste of coconut courtesy of some delicious little fleshy chunks. It also gives off a pleasant aroma. The only complaint might be that it’s a tiny bit too sweet.
Verdict: All smiles.
In front of the grocery store Lor Yaowaraj, Yaowarat Rd., 089-927-9425. Open 8am-midnight
This tastes a bit like frozen coconut juice or frozen yogurt rather than ice cream. Get past the icy popsicle, sorbet-like texture, though, and this is one refreshing treat for those who don’t like things too creamy.
Verdict: Ice is nice.
32/27 Soi Aree 2, Phaholyothin Rd., 02-279-5862, 081-875-5991. They also do delivery.
One bite is enough of this sugar-packed treat. In fact, there seems to be a lot more sugar than coconut in this ice cream resulting in a saccharine caramel-like taste and texture—too rich and too sweet.
Verdict: Kid’s candy sweet.
In front of Zaap Express, Soi Convent, Silom Rd., 02-6355023. Open 10.30am-10pm.
The sorbet-like texture is very, very watery with almost no hint of coconut. It’s almost as if they’ve poured a tiny bit of coconut juice on crushed ice. Very gritty and bland.
Verdict: Total meltdown.
Nuanchan Rd., 084-650-4424, 086-615-5965. www.banitim.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-9pm
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A collaboration between three friends from three different décor brands—studiobo, o-d-a and TAKEHOMEDESIGN—Hat does furniture and décor with emphasis on wood and splases of bold colors: wooden hat/jacket hangers with contrasting tones like red, orange and blue, wooden stools with painted seats and spiraling wooden lamps, chairs and shelves. We particularly like their minimal and innovative designs accomplished through the use of different wood tones and curved liness. Accessories and chairs start from B3,000.
4/F (Room Concept Store), Siam Discovery, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-0410.www.facebook.com/hathome
Founded in 2005, Roi-In does sofas, day beds and chairs with the emphasis squarely on what they call an “overlooked common material,” wood. Their products stick to three main principles: old wood as the core material, modern contemporary designs and an absence of decorative elements. Think boat sofas with navy cushions, old wood sofas with steel legs, and day beds with canvas fabric. Sofas start from B39,000, day beds from B55,000 and tables from B28,000.
116/7, Soi Prasarnmitr Sukhumvit 23, 02-662-0132. www.roi-in.co.th
Founded in 2006, Oggi’s minimal wooden decor has not only drawn international attention to local design but also won the brand multiple awards, such as the Good Design and DEMark awards. Focusing on pieces like coffee tables, chairs, work tables and storage boxes, what sets Oggi apart is its use of beautifully-patterned wood and its understated, contemporary design. Coffee tables start from B9,000, chairs from B5,000 and work tables from B12,000. Do call ahead before visiting their showroom.
Ladprao Soi 71, Ladprao Rd., 087-700-5401. www.oggi-living.com
Ugly Cute does chairs and wood-themed home décor that are, infact, pretty darn cute. The shop’s belief that leftover wood can be reborn as something desirable sees recycled maple, oak and beech used in small chairs, stools and decorative items like clocks, wall hooks, storage boxes, lamps and stationery holders. The real highlights, though, are the quirky themed items like the cookie magnet clock or the robot storage box, as well as the different shades of wood used in each piece. Chairs start from B4,800, stools from B3,200, wall clocks from B960 and lamps from B2,800.
2/F, Crystal Design Center (Bldg D), Praditmanutham Rd., 02-102-2266.
Founded in 2010, Studio 248 is all about Scandinavian-style minimal furniture made primarily from ash wood and oak. Awarded the DEMark award in 2012, the shop’s three designers, Jit, Golf and Purim, created a range of chairs, closets, coffee tables and storage boxes. What really impresses us is the subtle use of color and other materials in pieces like the leaning fruit bowl (B2,200) which combines an unusual shape and steel touches. Chairs start from B3,000, closets from B19,000 and coffee tables from B3,000. For now, their products are only available online, but they’re opening a showroom in Ekkamai soon.
www.studio248.com, order online at info.studio248.com
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Artist: Mahasaja Thammada
Label: Independent
We’ve heard the name Mahasajan Thammada ringing out in underground circles for a good while now, and the band have already appeared on the line-ups for events like the recent Bed Bazaar and British Icon 2 by Sound Craft. The generally on-the-money Goodcat crew have also touted them as an act to watch this year. Now finally, the 60s-inspired band present their debut single, “Win Yan,” a jangly, Beatle-esque sing-along about the girl who walked away, with a few country pop touches added on. Simply put, we’re hooked, and we’ll be sure not to miss their next live performance, which we’ve heard is a more head-banging rock n’ roll experience.
Artist: Colonial
Label: Independent
Another band to have freshly emerged from the underground is Colonial. Hitherto mainstays of the stage at hip indie haunt Harmonica and recent debutantes at the newly-opened Badmotel, the band’s first single, “Misplaced,” raced up Fat Radio’s Top 40 chart upon release. This slice of melodic pop-rock bears a pretty strong resemblance to Two Door Cinema Club, but the child-like vocals of frontwoman Thip Penpayap soften the whole piece—the result is something cute and catchy like what we used to get from Tahiti 80.
Artist: Morg
Label: Comet Records
Comet Records’ first compilation is the gift that keeps giving. This latest single comes courtesy of electro-loving duo Pruet Chesadaphun and Panlop Maneekunti, who record under the name Morg. On this woozy instrumental track, the pair’s synths and drum machine take the listener on a nostalgic trip aided by some spacey vocal-like samples. The end result is something not too far-removed from the chillwave or cloud rap sounds currently in vogue elsewhere, only with more obvious 80s pop touchstones—and it’ll have you hitting repeat before you even know it.
Artist: Part Time Musicians
Label: Rats Records
From speaking to the guy from indie duo Dot (BK Pick from last month’s All Ears), we learned that he’s now launching his own record label, Rats Records, and the first act he signed is brand new folk-trio Part Time Musicians. “Vacation Time,” the first single from Tarit Chiarakul (acoustic guitar and vocals), Worramet Matutamtada (electric guitar) and Wanrada Vichaithanaruks (vocals), is a breezy, mostly acoustic summer anthem complete with girl-boy vocals and a stand-out guitar solo. The lyrics are all about encouraging audiences to slow down their busy life. And on this evidence, the band should most definitely quit their day jobs.
Artist: Mattnimare
Label: Independent
We announced them as one of the bands to watch earlier this year, and Mattnimare should need no further introduction. Having initially forged a reputation for their scorching live show, the 4-piece then dropped a brilliant piece of Brit/garage-rock in the form of previous single “Luek.” New release “Goodnight” shows another, slower side to the band. Taking inspiration from a childhood nightmare of guitarist Zung, the result is a darker, psychedelic creation that builds and builds to a heart-wrenching crescendo.
Artist: Greasy Cafe
Label: Smallroom
There are many reasons we want to write about Greasy Café’s latest single “Moon.” Firstly, the track unsurprisingly jumped straight to the top 3 in its first week on the Fat Radio charts. Secondly, even though we were afraid that Lek’s new pop-look signified a move in a more mainstream direction, the single maintains his dark-romantic signature style both in lyrics and sound. And finally, the music video is a beautiful short film written and directed by Nawaphol Thamrongratanarit about a girl awaiting her lover’s return.
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For almost a hundred years, Siang Ki has built a reputation for its scrumptious khao tom pla (B250). Although located in a hidden part of Yaowarat, it still attracts large crowds hankering for a taste of this delicious fish dish. The owners claim that their rice soup recipe originated from ancient China where it was a preserve of the wealthy. The porridge is made from fresh pla jaramed (pomfret fish) with condiments like fresh oyster, fish maw and bateng (fried streaky pork with soy sauce). The tenderness and freshness of the fish cooked in the old-school style is so impressive that you’ll want to make the trek out here time and time again.
54 Soi Bamrungrat, Yaowarat Rd., 02-224-3600. Open daily 4pm-10pm (except last Sunday of every month)
For two generations now, Suan Ruen has been serving tasty fare like spicy fish salad, fish tomyam and, of course, khao tom pla krapong (sea bass, B60). The dish here is cooked with tender fresh chunks of fish, the mellow soup brimming with dried shrimp and fried sliced fish tofu and bean curd sauce. For a balanced meal, the recommended accompaniment is the boiled seafood selections (B100) with spicy seafood dipping sauce.
Near Dusit Post office, Ratchasima Rd. (near Yaek Ruamjit), 02-241-7763, 081-924-8004. Open daily 5pm-midnight
The reason there’s so many good khao tom pla joints in this area is probably because the Saphan Pla (fish market) is right nearby. The owner of Hor Khao Tom Pla (aka Khao Tom Gim Po), Krit Panyawisutthikul, told us that he got his recipe from his father and it’s been in the family for more than 70 years. The soup might not be as powerful as others, but the fish (tao toey, seabass, and grouper) are certainly well selected and the powerful sauce takes it to another level. The stock is made from pork bone, fish and shrimp head resulting in a delicious natural sweetness with no added MSG. Be prepared to battle it out for a parking spot with the endless stream of Mercedes dropping off hisos in the know to eat here.
1897 Charoenkrung Soi 73, 02-675-2598, 084-010-3424. Open daily 6pm-midnight
Located on the busy Chan Road, Hia Wann might not be a centuries-old institution but nothing beats the size of the seafood it has to offer. The fish, shrimp and squid—they all seem to come from another planet they’re so huge, meaning you certainly get your money’s worth. With their khao tom, the broth is well-balanced, slightly peppery and with no hint of fishy smell. The must-have, though? It might seem strange to say it, but the tomyam is the real star dish here—super yummy.
Chan Rd. (in front of Soi 32/2), 02-211-0829. Open daily 5pm-midnight
Even when you hear of something tasty across the river, it can still take some convincing to go check it out. Rest assured, though, the khao tom here is worth the effort. The dish can be had with seabass and grouper (B70), both delightfully chunky and naturally sweet. The bean curd sauce is amazingly well-prepared with no hint of fake lime juice, while the chili adds a nice edge. Do order the yam talay (seafood in spicy salad, B120), too, as it comes with very tasty bateng (fried streaky pork with soy sauce).
Suksawat Soi 1/1, 089-141-7485. Open daily 5pm-1am
Where did you get the recipe?
It’s our home recipe. Usually we make khao tom pla at home every weekend. We’re one big family that love to cook and eat together. I sold ped palo (braised duck) for about 60 years before I decided to do this. I just got bored doing the duck and it’s a dish that people would eat mostly on festivals but the khao tom pla is an everyday dish.
Don’t you regret not selling ped palo anymore?
I loved it. It was yummy and our customers still ask about it. But you know, people can always start something new. And the khao tom pla business is going great. I enjoy what I do. I love what I cook. And my family supports me a lot in everything.
What makes your khao tom pla delicious?
Maybe the broth. We use the pork and chicken bone together with the Chinese parsley and garlic and boil it from 9am to 5pm to get the full flavor from it. Always cook daily, otherwise, it won’t be as good.
What about the ingredients?
They’re the most important thing. We get most of the fish from Mahachai market from a supplier. But the fish needs to be fresh and weigh roughly 10-14 kilos.
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