So technically it’s illegal to be out this late drinking and god knows what else, but apparently martial law has been good for some people: insomniacs, alcoholics and people looking to get laid—which is pretty much everyone we know. Apparently the men in green like to party more than the men in brown?

Lang Suan Soi something

Newly opened, soon to be newly closed (if it isn’t already), this nightspot is located just steps from the road in an old restaurant space you wouldn’t guess was frequented by late-nighters. Once inside, you find a big airy hall like something a train or cars would run through with a long bar on two sides and a vibe quite similar to Q Bar’s. The crowd is mainly expats and their girlfriends. Beers are B200.

Ratchada Soi something

Not just one but three places to plant yourself sometimes exist here, depending on what the men in uniforms permit. One is warehouse size, air-conditioned with hip hop tunes playing all night, while the other two are outdoors, alfresco country house and something like an Indonesian resort playing Thai hit songs mostly. They serve up whisky in plastic green tea bottles or—even worse—whisky in condiment dispensers. Under age punters frequent these joints and all of them dress the same.

Ratchadamri-ish

This place near Central World is popular with middle management and above who like to tell others what to do. It’s a dark, seedy place located in the middle of a shopping/office complex. Pay B300 to get in and you get to spend the evening with a mixed crowd of desperate men and sleazy girls. They play commercial hip hop. Skip this one unless you are really hard up.

Silom Soi Something

This place is open as a go-go in the early evening but after 1am turns into a late-nightclub with the x-factor, which some of Bed’s regulars might enjoy as the DJ regularly plays house and electro tunes till 5am. Entry fee is B100, which gets you one drink at the back counter. Don’t be surprised if you find topless boys shaking their thing as it’s their regular afterhour sanctuary.

In the age of platinum package cable TV, high-speed internet, video games and iPods, it can be hard for most of us to stay interested in something for long—you might even be skipping parts of this article now just to get to the main point. Our senses are constantly bombarded with things to do, see, hear and react to. So we’ve grown accustomed to doing it all and doing it all at once. No wonder one-stop spots like J-Avenue where you can eat, go shopping, buy groceries, go bowling and get your nails done are so popular. But long before J-Avenue and Playground!, small independent businesses have been playing the multi-service card by providing more than one in-store service. These places have made it possible to enjoy a meal, get your hair and nails done and leave with something cool to wear or hang on your walls—without having to set foot outside even once. If that sounds like some time well spent, check out the places below.

It’s Happened To Be A Closet de Nero (32 Khao San Rd., Phranakorn, 02-629-5271/-2. Open Tue-Sun, 1–11pm). If you haven’t heard of this weirdly named shop yet, you’re missing out on one of Bangkok’s most unique and stylish boutiques. Having first opened in Siam Square, IHTBAC has now opened a second store in Khao San that is bigger and better. The new shop is set in a converted colonial style house tucked away within the vicinity of Tom Yum Koong Restaurant and True Shop. Stepping into this shop is like stepping into a different world filled with vintage furniture, precious knickknack, stacks of art books and fashion magazines and, of course, racks crammed full of eclectic, brightly colored tops, skirts and dresses. Though on the pricey side, the clothes are absolutely unique, with new designs added daily by prolific designer/owner “Jeah” Siriwan Tharananithikul. Besides clothes, IHTBAC also offers food: The mini restaurant serves tantalizing pastries and baked desserts, as well as Italian main dishes made in the store’s fully equipped display kitchen. Seating is available throughout the shop—just seek out your favorite corner, plop down and soak up the atmosphere. IHTBAC also triples as a beauty salon, offering hair, manicure and massage services. However, space is limited to one person at a time, so calling ahead for a reservation is a definite must. “It is not unusual for customers to spend a whole day in here, pampering themselves and taking advantage of what we have to offer,” says “Noon” Chantamol Laypradit, IHTBAC’s interior designer. “We even provide valet parking for our customers if they don’t want to look for a parking space themselves.”

Abstract Creations (125/21 Sukhumvit Soi 55 [just before Soi 7], 02-392-3330, 02-382-3330, 01-827-6922. Open Mon-Sat 9am-8pm) is a funky, brightly colored salon owned by multi-talented hair stylist Johnny Lim, who has been providing customized cuts and more for over six years. Walking in, you’ll find the Saluté juice café on the first floor, serving healthy fruit shakes and smoothies made from organic and pesticide-free fruit and vegetables. Light sandwiches and salads are available, as well as internet services, providing an ideal place for customers to sit back and relax while waiting to get their hair done. Upstairs you’ll find Johnny’s salon, where he offers numerous services such as hair and scalp treatments, hair coloring, perms and straightening. Originally hailing from Canada, Johnny trained as a hair stylist before moving to Bangkok in the 90’s. His approach to cutting hair is to design a style that is uniquely fitted to every person individually. That’s why you’ll usually have to make an appointment with the maestro: He takes his time to carefully detect which style will suit which customer. The walls of the salon and café double as a gallery for Johnny’s other creative interests: fashion photography and wood design. Johnny selects rosewood, ebony and teak from Laos and designs pieces, while local artisans craft them for him. His unique creations are on sale in the shop.

When asked if he was planning on expanding even more in the future, he replied, “I like to create things when I’m free; that’s how I work. If I’m idle I get bored, but when I’m doing something, I always get new ideas.”

In the beginning, Klong San was nothing but a pier on the Chao Phraya. But as throngs of ferry passengers shuffled down its boardwalk, business-savvy individuals were quick to set up shop at its gates. Nowadays, in the late afternoon, Klong San’s narrow alleys are jam-packed with high school and university students, employees finished with their day’s work, and even housewives—all in pursuit of tasty treats, hip fashion and a place to relax and swap gossip before heading home. Klong San really has it all and more, boasting some unusual places for a market, like nail salons and bookstores.

If you’re not already in Thonburi, you’ll need to cross over. Boarding takes place at Si-Phraya Pier, next to the Sheraton Hotel. For a whopping B2.50, a ferry will take you straight to Klong San Pier in minutes. If you’re coming from the Thonburi side, the market is on Charoennakorn Road. Get ready to sweat, this is an open-air market, not a “Glorious Phenomenon”—air-con, umbrellas, and cold towels are not included. The upside is that the prices are missing a few zeros compared to chic malls in the city center. We recommend:

Playground (Block E2-5, 01-868-1832. Open daily 11am-9pm) Fashionable blouses, skirts and knee-length dresses for the fashion conscious young woman on a budget. Prices range from B280-500.

Block D-06 (06-539-8325, Open daily 11am-9pm) No, you’re not in Khao San. Embroidered Indian dresses, cloth bags and even shoes range from B300 to B1,000. Unfortunately, the saris and scarves didn’t look very authentic to us.

Prangkob (Block 63. Open daily 11am-8pm) Seven minutes to paint your nails means less than a minute a finger! Even the busiest exec can afford the time unless her brain freezes trying to choose from the plethora of designs. But at B100 for all 10 of your precious fingers, you don’t even have to be an exec to enjoy it.

The market has just been extended with a brand new, very clean-looking zone with lots of cute shops (all open noon-9pm). Fewer people, wider alleys, and even a view on the river make for a much more relaxed shopping experience, plus the shops have more personality. Blood Scatter (shop E8) has punky leather wristbands (B100) and hand-painted T-shirts (B350); Superboy (shop F9) is more Victorian, with knee-length dresses (B590), embroidered jeans (B790) and blouses with lace (B199). Great for those cold Bangkok winters, Block B1-C1 (09-745-1245. Open daily noon-9pm) has a selection of fake fur coats (B850) and real leather jackets (B950). One of its walls is simply covered in belts (B80), and they also carry bags (B150-200). You can’t miss Zhamoo (Block D1, 07-913-9179) with its trashy Barbie dolls, bowling pins, and vintage furniture. Prices range from B190-890 for retro first and second-hand women’s wear.

If your sugar level is dropping, 71/17 Hub (stall 71/17, 01-622-1992, 01-926-5027. Open Mon-Sat 6am-9pm, Sun 11am-9pm) will serve you soft smoothies at B25-35, pastries and bread (B15-35). They also sell clothes. Come early to listen to the only decent music around and grab the single table the shop has to offer.

Another treat is the famous Bua Loi Kai Kem (Block E5/2, 01-697-5971. Open daily 2-7pm). The most typical bua loi (Thai style taro balls in coconut milk) is bua loi kai kem (B18), but you could be experimental and try bua loi kai waan (B16), bua loi kai kem koo (B24) or even bua loi kai waan koo (B21). Further down the market, grab a refreshing drink at Naam Jub Liang (a small stall next to Block S 01, Open daily 11am-9pm) to wash down your sugar high.

The trendy East Coast suburb has seen a recent mushrooming of new food and beverage joints. Spread out from Siglap to Katong, these new places add to well-established cafes and restaurants that draw a predominantly yuppie crowd. “Easterners” roll up in sporty cars and on foot, in fashionable flip flops and T-shirts, to hang out over a good meal. Evenings and weekends are hugely popular, and good tables are hard to come by. I-S introduces you to the new kids on the block.

Astons Specialties, 119 East Coast Rd., 6247-7857.
Since it opened in July, this joint has been packed for lunch and dinner everyday. Steaks are the star here, with the prime rib eye extra-cut ($14.90), served with homemade mushroom sauce, being a must-try. The grilled fish with herbs ($5.90), served with homemade asparagus sauce, is good too. Other recommended dishes include the black pepper chicken ($5.90) and the spicy seafood marinara ($7.90). Each of the above is served with two sides of your choice.

Indian Wok, 699 East Coast Rd., 6448-2003.
This warm and inviting Indian restaurant is one of the few in Singapore that serves authentic Indian-Chinese cuisine, which is very popular in India. The restaurant is immensely crowded on the weekends, so be sure to make a reservation beforehand. Seafood lovers will be pleased with the crab claws ($15) and the pomfret havoli ($18). The chili garlic noodle ($18) is another must-try. End your meal with the taste-bud tempting date pancake ($18).

The Hong Kong Tea House, G/F, 86 East Coast Rd., 6345-1932.
You can’t miss the distinctive white colonial-styled building that houses this newly opened joint. The walls of the interior are filled with photos of Hong Kong pop icons and vinyl LPs from the 1970s. Over 400 items are on the menu, including baked home made noodle with pork chop ($9), baked broccoli with Portuguese sauce ($12), and a unique fruit salad spring roll ($2.80 for 3 pieces). Not to be missed are juicy steamed pork dumplings ($3.80 for 4 pieces) bursting with broth. End your meal with the delightful and nutty cream of walnut ($4.50).

Settlers Cafe, 107 East Coast Rd., 6345-0071.
This comfy third branch of the well-known lifestyle cafe is a great place to spend an afternoon over board games and yummy munchies. Games include Snorta, a fun and whimsical party game, as well as the award-winning The Settlers of Catan. As for the food, try the juicy jumbo sausages ($8.90), which come in beef, chicken and cheese. Those who are looking for something more filling should check out the Settler’s sandwich ($8.90) with a choice of three fillings—turkey ham, special tuna mayonnaise and chicken.

Stonegrill, 91 East Coast Rd., 6348-1211.
Dining here is a unique experience—your food is cooked before you on volcanic stones that have been pre-heated to 400°C. As General Manager Simon Ng explains, this healthy way of cooking locks in the food’s natural flavors and juices, and eliminates the need for condiments. Start off your meal with wild stuffed mushrooms ($7.90); then move on to a nice chunk of tenderloin steak ($24.90) and a generous slice of Pacific dory fish ($11.90). Mains are served on the volcanic stones, along with a side salad and a dip.

Wine Connection, #01-06 The Domain, 914 East Coast Rd., 6441-6883.
This East Coast branch of the wine shop over at Robertson Quay opened its doors on August 1. Bottles start at a very reasonable $15 and go up to over $400 for premium labels. Special mentions include the Trivento Reserve Syrah/Malbec ($29) from Argentina and the Waipora Hills Marlborough Pinot Noir ($26) from Chile. Wine accessories are also conveniently available here (from $4). Wine lovers will be happy to know that there is a free casual tasting on every Friday, from 6-8pm. Remember to also check out the Belgian beers, such as the Duvet ($6.50).

Located on Robertston Quay, The Pier at Robertson is the latest lifestyle centre to hit our shores. Making good use of what used to be the black hole between Riverside View and the Singapore Tyler Print Institute, the new condominium has become home to a range of lifestyle and food and beverage outlets all centering around an open courtyard right on the Singapore River.

Landlords City Developments Limited (CDL) say in the coming months we can expect to see even more tenants arriving to complete the gastronomic lifestyle precinct tone that has already been set by the current tenants. With a whisky bar, wine bar, French brasserie, Japanese restaurant, coffee house and fine chocolatier, The Pier has already set the benchmark to become a worthy destination for young professionals who want good food and drink in a chilled out atmosphere.

Brasserie Wolf, #01-13 The Pier at Robertson, 80 Mohamed Sultan Rd., 6835-7818.
The latest offering from the Esmirada Group of Restaurants is this large French brasserie-style eatery. Helmed by Executive Chef Philippe Nouzillat, Brasserie Wolf might look posh, but it aims to be a casual joint where people can eat, drink and make merry, just as they do at the brasseries in France. Nouzillat tries to make his food unpretentious and homely, and tasty menu items such as French onion soup ($10) and duck a l’orange ($36) certainly achieve this. And things are expanding here—expect in the coming months to see more alfresco seating, breakfast and brunch menus, and an extended wine list. Nouzillat aspires to create an atmosphere of interaction between patrons, where people have fun and relax. With the spacious walk in wine cellar and a full bar, this should be easy enough to achieve.

Tasting Notes, #01-05/06 The Pier at Robertson, 80 Mohamed Sultan Rd., 6238-8840.
This trendy wine bar with its long island bar and plenty of seats both inside and out also sells around 250 labels of new and old world wines in their retail shop. The selection of new world wines is larger than their old world range, but there are plans to increase the number of labels available. If you can’t find what you want in their large variety, Tasting Notes will actually source the wines for you. And if you’re peckish, they has come up with a novel way to choose the perfect wine for your meal. If you’re already comfy in the bar and don’t want to move, you can order food from the neighboring restaurants and have it brought to you. Or, buy a bottle from Tasting Notes and the corkage fee will be waved by the some of the nearby restaurants.

La Maison Du Whisky Singapore, #01-10 The Pier at Robertson, 80 Mohamed Sultan Rd., 6733-0059.
The family owned company La Maison Du Whisky first started in France in 1956 and this new Singaporean operation is their third store. Expect all types of whisky from Scottish to Irish, American and rice. In fact, they are exclusive carriers of the 1974 Laphroaig Vintage (there are only 50 of these left in France and 12 left in Singapore) and are also the exclusive holders of a 30-year-old Aberlour whisky. Apart from their retail enterprises, the house organizes whisky events, specifically tastings. For around $50, join a blind tasting where participants discuss tasting techniques, the nose of the whisky and the making process. Small private tasting sessions of not more than 15 people can also be organized.

The Chocolate Factory, #01-11 The Pier at Robertson, 80 Mohamed Sultan Rd., 6235-9007.
Chocaholics beware: As the elegant packaging of The Chocolate Factory’s produce indicates, Chocolatier Laurent Bernard is a stickler for quality. The cafe also serves up daily homemade simple French pastries, such as cheesecakes, chocolate cakes and tiramisu. But really, it’s the chocolate you should come here for. Trust us when we say these are some of the smoothest and most delicate chocolates in town. Bernard’s chocolates are handmade daily in a specially chilled room within the cafe using fresh produce and only kept on display for three to four days. Bernard’s philosophy is that like fine food, fine chocolates should have a short shelf life—he recommends his chocolates only be kept for a week after you buy them. Bookings are recommended if you want to dine at the cafe on weekends.

Robata Yoyogi, #01-04 The Pier at Robertson, 80 Mohamed Sultan Rd., 6733-8711.
Sister restaurant to Yoyogi across the road, Robata Yoyogi is the only restaurant in Singapore completely devoted to the Japanese tradition of Robataya dining—eating fresh grilled seasonal ingredients served to you on a giant paddle. And it’s been an instant success. The restaurant is packed at nights with Japanese sitting for hours at a time, ordering dishes at their pleasure. There is an array of different items on order from grilled file fish ($12.50) to kuro buta or pork belly ($6.50) and all the ingredients are imported from Japan. For a unique dining experience where one can sit comfortably for hours sipping sake and tasting cuisine, this is a novel option.

The Coffee Connoisseur, #01-01/02 The Pier at Robertson, 80 Mohamed Sultan Rd., 6733-8707.
And of course, a perfect way to finish off all this great food and drink is a strong coffee at this, the latest TCC outlet.

TIDBIT
Keep a look out for Brussels Sprouts, the latest culinary offering from entrepreneurial team Emmanuel Stroobant and Edina Hong of Saint Pierre due to open December 1.

In part one of this story (Aug 25) we hopped around the Sam Phraeng neighborhood and introduced various tasty fare from somtam to fresh milk. But the food-studded area still has a lot more to offer. Here are seven more top eats to check out on your next food-hunting trip.

Tom Yum Pig’s Brain

11 Phraeng Phuton Rd., 06-772-1600
Open Mon-Sat 9am-4pm

Don’t be scared. This is not a Fear Factor challenge. A visit to Tom Yum Pig’s Brain will open your eyes to this often overlooked menu item. Entering Phraeng Phuton from Atsadang Road, the small eatery is on the left side across from the camping shop.

The deal: As the name suggests, tom yum pig’s brain is the hot specialty. It has been recommended by food critic Mae Choi Nang Ram and featured in many local and international magazines. The Hakka-style spicy soup includes not only pig’s brain but homemade pork balls, fish balls, entrails, deep-fried fish skin and deep-fried taro balls. Try it and you’ll see that, gross as it sounds, pig’s brain tastes great.

The price: B60/bowl.

Pig’s Brain (Thai Tham)

28/1 Phraeng Phuton Rd., 02-221-7612
Open Mon-Sat 7am-2pm

Just a few steps from Tom Yum Pig’s Brain, on the opposite side of the road, is Pig’s Brain (Thai Tham). This hole-in-the-wall shop has been around for over 40 years—since its owner, Auntie Sudjit, was a young lady. Back then the soup cost only B3!

The deal: “Thai Tham” means made by Thai, so the pig’s brain soup here is prepared with a Thai flair. It has attracted lots of celebrity diners and food critics, including MR Thanadsri Svasti, who gave the eatery the Shell Chuan Chim award. The ingredients are pretty much the same as in the Hakka version, but the broth is clear and fragrant with pepper. The soup runs out quickly; arrive early to avoid disappointment.

The price: B70/bowl.

Chote Chitr

146 Phraeng Phuton Rd., 02-221-4082
Open Mon-Sat 11am-9pm

Chote Chitr is small and unassuming with only five wooden tables. But despite its unpretentious neighborhood setting, the restaurant offers some of the best Thai fare in town, and has been building its admirable reputation for almost a century. Its fame has also reached foreign shores, and international media including the New York Times and London’s Financial Times have written up this local institution.

The deal: There are at least 200 dishes scribbled on the menus hanging on the wall. The highlights are gaeng lieng (mixed vegetable soup with dry shrimps and shrimp paste) and yum hua plee (banana flower salad). But the real scenestealer is mee krob (crispy sweet and sour fried noodles), which comes with generous portion of shrimp and chicken. Vegetarian-friendly, the restaurant also serves up a wide selection of meatless choices. Don’t forget to try Chote Chitr’s best-kept secret, its signature ya dong (traditional herbal liquor), whose recipe is said to help combat illness. Watch out for the eatery’s dogs.

The price: A la carte dishes start at B30. Ya dong is B100/shot, B350/bottle.

Seri Thai Cuisine

87 Phraeng Phuton Rd., 02-223-8416
Open daily 10:30am-9pm

From the outside—and, okay, the inside too—this place is not at all attractive. The restaurant sign is old and tatty and the white tile floor is turning yellow. The service is so-so. But the 10-year-old restaurant still manages to draw the crowds with its no-frills Thai cooking.

The deal: The menu features standard (some would say boring) fare you can find elsewhere, like tom yum and green curry, plus a selection of one-plate quick dishes. Skip those and order Seri’s must-try pla ta pien rai kang (deep-fried fish), which is so crisp you can eat the bones.

The price: Side dishes start at B30. For the deep-fried fish, prices vary by size starting at B140.

Nai Kim Thong’s Beef Noodles

71 Phraeng Phutorn Rd., 02-222-0744
Open Mon-Sat 11am-4pm

On the same side of the street as Seri is Nai Kim Thong’s Beef Noodles. In spite of its faded walls, scuffed woodwork and plain décor, customers frequent this shop for its tasty noodles. The busy man cooking the noodles (Mr. Kim Thong?) doesn’t have time for chitchat, but you can always count on him for fast service.

The deal: This Shell Chuan Chim-recommended restaurant’s homemade beef balls are what keep the regulars coming back. On the cooking stall sits a huge stainless steel pot full of mouth-watering braised beef. Tender and savory, the beef couldn’t be more satisfying. But a bigger portion could be an improvement.

The price: B30/bowl.

Udom Pochana

78 Phraeng Phutorn Rd., 02-221-3042
Open Mon-Sat 7am-3:30pm

Udom Pochana has tried out a few locations around the neighborhood before settling in its present spot. However, the eatery has managed to preserve its khao muu daeng (rice with BBQ pork) recipe for three generations, striving to live up to its slogan “60 Years Same Taste.” Most of the customers are government employees who flock to the family-run restaurant during their lunch break.

The deal: While known for its tried-and-true khao muu daeng, Udom Pochana has also added new items such as fresh spring rolls and noodles to the menu. Make sure to try the recommended Chinese-style beef stew and pork curry.

The price: Everything is B30.

Natthaporn Ice Cream

94 Phraeng Phutorn Rd., 02-221-3954, 02-622-2455
Open Mon-Sat 9am-5pm

Go straight from Udom Pochana and you’ll find Natthaporn Ice Cream, a specialty shop whose reputation has outgrown its tiny setting. Over 50 years ago, the famous ice cream parlor started up with just one flavor: coconut milk. Now not only does it have a new and bigger outlet on Tanao Road, Natthaporn Ice Cream also tempts your sweet tooth with more flavors.

The deal: Those craving rich and velvety ice cream might be disappointed—Natthaporn is all about light Thai-style treats. Even the coconut milk flavor is refreshing. Other flavors include chocolate, milk, coconut, iced tea and coffee. Homemade sweet sticky rice makes a nice topping for your ice cream. For an indulgent treat, the owner recommends matching your favorite ice cream with a slice of homemade cake.

The price: B15. Take-away pints are B175-255, depending on the flavor.

HEAR

Singapore’s not called a multicultural country for nothing. Pass through the Raffles Place and City Hall MRT interchanges, the epicenters of the public transport system through which Singaporeans of every ethnic group pass everyday, for an earful of announcements made in our four main languages: English, Malay, Chinese and Tamil. To hear “stand behind the yellow line” in all languages is quite the ear-twisting quintessential Singaporean experience.

For an honest look at our kaleidoscope of cultures, there is nowhere more down to earth than our local kopi tiams (coffee shops). And by honest we mean that you’ll be able to pick up swear words in at least three different languages and various dialects too, as the patrons hang around downing mug after mug of the local Tiger Beer, coffee and tea. Check out Chinatown Complex on Smith Street.

Visit the infamous Speaker’s Corner (Hong Lim Park) on any given day and you can hear the deafening sound of...well, nothing really. Our version of Hyde Park, established to give Singaporeans a chance to speak out on issues (with prior approval, of course), is surprisingly empty (well not so surprising given the police station just 100 meters away)—except for guys like former taxi driver and independent politician Lim Kian Heng (aka Singlet Man) and a couple of soccer teams practicing on weekends. But it’s not that Singaporeans have nothing to say. Just hop into any taxi and ask what the driver thinks about the government/economy/price of gas.

Singapore has more than its fair share of song birds in our ever-growing music scene. Of course, whether those birds are singing beautifully or squawking like vultures depends on who you’re listening to. To get an earful of the latter, tune in to Singapore Idol every Wednesday on Channel 5. For more serious musical talent scope out the live gigs at Bar None (Basement, Singapore Marriott Hotel, 320 Orchard Rd., 6831-4657) or Timbre (45 Armenian St., 6338-8277).

Anyone looking to soak in the arts should definitely swing by Esplanade—Theatres on the Bay (1 Esplanade Dr., 6828-8222) at least once to catch a show. The “durian,” as it’s been nicknamed for its resemblance to Southeast Asia’s unique thorny fruit, is synonymous with the arts and is home to some of the most renowned performances, such as the ongoing Forbidden City.

For chilled out banter and chatter, make a stop at Café le Caire (39 Arab St., 6292-0979) on a Friday night. On top of the casual conversation from the crowd of mostly young professionals, there are also the sounds of really cool Middle Eastern music to soak up while enjoying a smoke from intricately designed hookahs.

Singapore is one of the most technologically up-to-date countries in Asia and yet, for some reason, there are quite a number of us that forget there’s a silent function on all mobile phones. Our memory of this function is especially dim when in cinemas. Sit in on almost any flick and listen to the myriad of Canto-pop ring tones that explode mid-film, followed by hushed (or not so hushed) conversations about how the movie is going to end.

If you’ve only got a short while to get jiggy in the clubbing scene, we suggest going for bite-sized samples of various musical styles on offer at Ministry of Sound (#01-02/07, #02-01/08, Blk C Clarke Quay, River Valley Rd., 6235-2292). Here, all you need to do to enjoy a different genre is step into another room.

From middle-aged rockers wielding their trusty (and in some cases, rusty) electric guitars to a surprisingly spry old man swinging about a string of beads around his waist like a delirious hula-hoopa, the buskers on our popular shopping belt Orchard Road are an eclectic bunch. They constantly fighting for your attention and spare change, usually by butchering classic rock songs and church hymns.

SMELL

Mount Faber may be only 106 meters tall (hardly a mountain) but this park has some of the freshest air around. The unpolluted air (except when the haze comes to town) is partly due to the lack of traffic, the abundance of plants busy churning out oxygen and the proximity to the sea. Chill out on a park bench, take a deep breath of O2 and enjoy the scenic views. Have a drink at The Altivo (The Jewel Box, 109 Mount Faber Rd., 6377-9618) if thirsty.

Love it or hate it but the durian, the big green, spiky, pungent fruit is synonymous with Singapore. Its distinctive pong is highly offensive to people unaccustomed to it who describe its creamy flesh as being like onion-custard. Which side do you fall on? To find out, drop by one of the numerous durian stalls along Geylang Road and cast your vote.

Explore the streets of the historical quarter Little India to learn more about Indian culture. The overwhelming scent of Indian spices, jasmine garlands, incense and yummy curries make your head spin. Go any day of the week—except Sunday—unless you like rubbing shoulders (literally) with thousands of foreign workers who hang out here on their day off work.

There are many who think our local film industry stinks. We certainly haven’t caught anything impressive lately and some productions have even lulled us to sleep. To prove we’re not just being picky, go see for yourself major local productions at movie theaters, while smaller indie films are being screened at The Arts House (1 Old Parliament Lane, 6332-6900), The Picturehouse (5/F, 6/F, The Cathay, 2 Handy Rd., 6235-1155) and the National Museum of Singapore (93 Stamford Rd., 6332-3659). Bring a pillow.

One way to know our Garden City better is to, erm, go to a garden. There’s no better place than the Singapore Botanic Gardens
(1 Cluny Rd., 6471-7361) where you can smell roses and frangipanis growing in abundance. Register for a garden tour at the Visitor Centre.

The National Museum of Singapore’s (93 Stamford Rd., 6332-3659) massive facelift is so recent the paint still smells fresh. Only to be officially opened in December, this 1887 building has been endowed with state-of-the-art facilities and 10,000 square feet of exhibition space. Come and take a peek at the exhibit “The Art of Cartier” and art works from the Singapore Biennale 2006.

The State’s ideologies and the local media are intricately linked. We advise you to be savvy and critical while reading the papers. See if you can sniff out the “out-of-bounds” markers the media abide by—that’s local political speak for the self-censorship process the journalists go through.

Just as sky scrapers and impressive office towers are associated with the Central Business District, small pubs, karaoke lounges, conservation shop houses and cheap hotels are the hallmarks of “fishy” neighborhoods Geylang and Joo Chiat. Come late, when the action really gets going, to see what Geylang Road and Joo Jiat Road are notorious for and a whiff of the shadier side of Singapore. A word of advice: Trust your instincts more than your eyes.

TASTE

Indulge your taste buds by having Sunday champagne brunch at a five-star hotel. Starve yourself for this treat: There’s food as far as the eye can see, plus free flow champagne. Available at One Ninety (G/F Four Seasons Hotel, 190 Orchard Blvd., 6831-7250, Sun 11am-1pm, 1:30pm-3pm, $132-292) and Town Restaurant and Bar (G/F The Fullerton Hotel, 1 Fullerton Square, 6877-8128, Sun noon-3:30pm, $118).

Try the local cuisine by heading to a hawker center at peak hour. Not only will you get to sample cheap local fare such as roti prata, satays and curry laksa, and interact with Singlish-speaking store owners, you’ll also witness the Singaporean kiasu mentality at work as long queues form at the best stalls. Particularly notable in the evenings are Newton Food Centre and Lau Pa Sat.

For local cuisine in more comfortable (air-con) surrounds, choose the set menu of home style Singaporean dishes at the charming 8 on Greenwood (8 Greenwood Ave., 6100-8711) restaurant or try the all-you-can-eat buffet feast at Straits Kitchen (G/F, Grand Hyatt Singapore, 10 Scotts Rd., 6416-7114).

Try cooling down outdoors by ordering our locally brewed Tiger Beer. Find a chilled out spot at Sentosa’s beach bar KM8 (120 Tanjong Beach Walk, 6274-2288) or check out the more salubrious atmosphere of the latest yuppie hangout One Rochester (1 Rochester Park, 6773-0070) which is housed in a traditional colonial residence.

Witness poor taste in action by going to Lucky Plaza shopping center (304 Orchard Rd.) where you can find all manner of cheap and tacky tourist trinkets, aggressive electronics-touting salespersons and even condom shops.

Satisfy your curiosity about the much-touted chili crab by heading out to the East Coast where many restaurants specializing in chili crab are located. Line up for a table at the chili crab institution Long Beach Seafood Restaurant (1018 East Coast Parkway, 6445-8833) to get your hands dirty with the rich red sauce.

TOUCH

Walking down Orchard Road on a weekend afternoon without bumping into people or having people bump into you is near impossible. But it still doesn’t compare to the swarm at Singapore’s only 24/7 department store, Mustafa (145 Syed Alwi Rd., 6295-5855), at its busiest around 2am on a Saturday or Sunday morning. Nothing brings out Singaporeans’ addiction to shopping more than this quirky phenomenon. This department store is a veritable bazaar for everything from groceries, toys and jewelry to hearing aids and kitchen sinks.

Nothing beats a bit of pampering at the end of a hard day like one of the many hair salons that wash your hair after a head massage and do a manicure—simultaneously. Prices are very reasonable; for a hair wash in a city salon expect to pay $15-20, for a pedicure about $30 and a manicure about $20. We recommend Jean Yip (#04-02 Plaza Singapura, 68 Orchard Rd., 6332-9919).

If you look around you—on the bus, train, in a restaurant—you see Singaporeans constantly text messaging on their mobile phones. The local obsession is so intrinsic that a 23-year-old Singaporean, Kimberly Yeo, held the world record in 2004 for thumbing 26 words into her phone in 43.24 seconds, beating the world record of 67 seconds. To complete your Singapore experience, see how long it takes you to punch in 50 SMSes.

You might get the chance to go to a supermarket while you’re here. If you notice people spending an awful lot of time by the boxes of fruit and veg—this is why. It is an annoying Singaporean trait to go through every single piece of produce, feel it, press it, sniff it, weigh it in the palms of one’s hand, before deciding which piece among the entire box is the best to buy. (And it’s always the piece right at the bottom.) As you can imagine, it takes a while to fondle 600 apples or 150 bundles of spinach. Try it for yourself and see.

If the delights of chili crab, laksa, char keow teow and other hawker food have piqued your interest, pick up some tricks of the trade by signing up for classes at Cookery Magic (58 Jalan Tembusu, 6348-9667). Run by the cheerful and knowledgeable Ruqxana, her classes teach you how to rustle up Singaporean street food in a home kitchen and include vegetarian options. Call Ruqxana to let her know you’re coming as she conducts the classes in her own home.

The best things in life are free. At least that’s the mantra Singaporeans believe in and live by. If you happen to pass by any shop, restaurant or bar that is giving away anything for free, chances are you’ll see a really long queue for it. Doesn’t matter what it is—a drink, a bag, a whistle, health insurance, used socks—if it’s free we want it. If we don’t want it, even though it free, then it must totally suck.

For a certain kind of action on a Saturday night, check out Orchard Towers. With bars like Naughty Girl, Peyton Place and Ipanema in this nightlife location, you can expect to find party girls, sailors, trannies and everything in between. If you step into any of the bars here you’ll see lots of couples dancing, ahem, cheek to cheek, if you get our drift. You definitely won’t be seeing these on your sightseeing tour of the island.

While Singaporeans are a civilized bunch most of the time, we do occasionally hang loose; you’ll even see us eating with our fingers. This happens mostly at South Indian “banana leaf” curry shops that serve rice and curry on, you guessed it, a banana leaf. Check out popular favorite Banana Leaf Apollo (54/56/58 Race Course Rd., 6293-8682) where the curry of choice is fish head. If you don’t fancy gouging out the cheeks of a garouper or sucking out its eyeballs (the most delectable part) try the chicken, prawn, or regular fish curry, or just go to vegetarian restaurant Komala Vilas (12 Buffalo Rd., 6293-3664). You can ask for cutlery, but the real way to eat is to slop curry on your rice, make a little ball, pick it up with four fingers then kick it into your mouth with your thumb. Wash basins are provided.

The name Sam Phraeng may not ring a bell among the young and hip of Siam Square and Thong Lor, but this old neighborhood, including Phraeng Phuton, Phraeng Nara and Phraeng Sapphasat, is home to the city’s top eats, some of which you cannot find elsewhere. It’s a good place to revisit the old favorites.

Kai Yang Boran

474-476 Tanao Rd., 02-622-2349. Open daily 8am-9pm.
Located just a few steps from Chao Pau Seau Chinese Shrine is Kai Yang Boran. The restaurant is simply furnished with wooden tables closely spaced to accommodate as many people as possible. Despite its no-brainer décor, Kai Yang Boran has managed to attract lots of celebrity diners, whose photos cover the walls, with its full course Isaan feast.

The deal: The staff is quite friendly, but not so knowledgeable. From their accents, we guess most of them are Burmese. It’s no use asking for recommended dishes because the only answer is somtam. The best bet is what the restaurant is named after, kai yang (roasted chicken). The recipe is taken from Suphanburi, the owner’s hometown.

The price: Starts at B30 for somtam. The whole chicken is B160, half is B85.

40-Year-Old Raat Naa

514 Tanao Road, 02-622-1910 ext. 1, 05-169-6569. Open daily 9am-9:30pm.
As its name suggests, raat naa is the specialty at this eatery. Originally, the shop was in Samyan market but moved to its present location in the late 1990s. The grandpa’s recipe, however, has passed unchanged through generations for four decades.

The deal: The secret of 40-Year-Old Raat Naa, the sibling owners reveal, is the tender pork. Each day they have to prepare over 30 kilos to cater to the customers. Special attention is paid to make sure the pork is well soaked in a secret marinade overnight until it absorbs all the flavors. The menu is short and easy: Just choose sen yai, sen mee or mee krob. Pad see iew (stir-fried noodles with egg and meat), is also tasty and not oily at all.

The price: Raat naa with pork is B25, with seafood is B50. Pad see iew is B30.

Pa Thong Go Sawoei

540 Tanao Road, opposite Bangkok Bang, 02-222-2635. Open daily 5-10am, 5-10pm.

This take-away shop does one thing—pa thong go—and does it very well. The kind uncle has been sautéing the crispy Chinese pastry for over 50 years.

The deal: Crispy and airy, pa thong go, which has been recommended by food critic Mae Choi Nang Ram, takes center stage. It’s also a royal favorite. The uncle proudly reveals HRH Princesses Somsavali and Bajra Kittiyabha used to send bodyguards to buy his crusty fare, hence the word sawoei, a royal word for eating.

The price: B10/4 pieces, but opt for a set (B20-B40), which includes sangkhaya (Thai custard). It makes a nice breakfast. Pa thong go usually runs out very quickly, so go early.

Phraeng Nara Pork Balls

544 Tanao Road, 01-483-2347. Open daily 10am-10pm.

Right in the front of Phraeng Nara corner is Phraeng Nara Pork Balls. We don’t know anything much about this stall because vendor Khun Tookta is ever busy grilling. So the conversation kind of goes like this:
How many sticks you churn out each day?
“Don’t know. I don’t keep a record.”
How long have you been here?
“Can’t remember.”
Any secret recipes?
“No.”
So we’ll have two sticks then.
“Here. B10.”

The deal: It’s all about pork balls. Grilled hot on the spot, these pork balls are made entirely with pork, no starch or additives.

The price: B5/stick.

Khanom Bueang Boran

91 Phraeng Nara Road, 02-222-8500. Open daily 10am-6pm.

One of the oldest shops in the Sam Phraeng area, Khanom Bueang Boran is tucked in a soi opposite the Bangkok Bank. Auntie Somsri is long well known for her khanom bueang boran (original Thai crispy crepe), the recipe for which is from the kitchen of Prince Narathip Phraphanphong in the reign of King Rama 5.

The deal: There are two variants of the crispy crepes to choose from: The sweet filling includes foi thong (Thai dessert), raisins, sweetened diced squash and coconut, while the salty style appeals with savory minced shrimp. Unlike the modern version, traditional khanom bueang isn’t filled with cream, but is coated with a thin layer of Thai custard. To avoid disappointment, head there before 3pm.

The price: Prices range from B10-50, depending on size.

Ko Phanit

431-433 Tanao Road, 02-221-3554. Open Mon-Sat 6:30am-7pm.

Ko Phanit needs no introduction. It was founded in 1929 by Karb Chiebchalard, whose initial has become widely known as the symbol of one of the best sticky rice shops in town. However, the brain behind the renowned khaoniew moon is not Karb, but his wife Sarapee who adopted the cooking tips and tricks from her mother.

The deal: The take-away shop sells only sticky rice. but you can buy juicy mangoes at two hawkers nearby. Sticky rice is blended with sugar and coconut milk, which yield silky texture and smooth creamy taste. Goes great with Ko Phanit’s homemade sangkhaya.

The price: Sticky rice is B110/kilo. A bowl of sangkhaya is B30.

Nom Jo

441 Tanao Road, 09-788-6417, 01-4822377. Open Mon-Sat 10:30am-10pm.

Go straight from Ko Phanit and you’ll find Nom Jo. A few years ago, it was just a small cart attracting customers only with hot fresh milk and roasted bread, but now Nom Jo has expanded into a proper shop.

The deal: In addition to the all-time favorite khanom pang sangkhaya (bread topped with Thai custard), owner Jo just introduced two new toppings to go with roasted bread: chocolate with banana and corn soup. The menu also sees many hearty dishes from pork congee and Chinese dumplings to pork steak.

The price: Prices range from B6 for roasted bread to B65 for steak.

Classic Chows: Part 2

When I used to make costumes for my high school plays, there was just one place to find the best selection of fabric at bargain prices: Pahurat Market. And nothing has changed; Pahurat is still where the pros go, from amateur costume designers to expert tailors. It’s also part of the biggest Indian community in Bangkok, so you might expect it to be dominated by Indian-style merchandise. But Pahurat has everything from beautiful sari material to basic outfits, not to mention beaded sandals, costume jewelry and an awesome array of silk scarves.

Pahurat market is located on Pahurat Road between Chak Phet and Tri Phet Roads. Pahurat Road was constructed in 1898 in the era of King Chulalongkorn as a memorial for his young daughter, Princess Pahurat Maneemai, who passed away. Pahuarat later became a largely Sikh community and a hub of fabric trading, from basic curtain materials to haute couture textiles for evening gowns.

The first thing to do on arriving is fuel up for your shopping spree with a nice steak and a sweet, crispy roti, across the road from Poh Chang College. Then start wandering.

The first place that caught our eye was a small, modern wedding supply shop with a Siam Square look: clean white exterior, floor-to-ceiling windows and cute trinkets displayed inside. The attentive staff at Viriya (330-332 Pahurat Rd., 02-225-8284, www.idealoungegroup.com) can help you find everything you need for a perfect wedding, including invitation cards, customized wedding favors and gifts—and if they don’t have what you want, they’ll custom-make it. Idea Lounge, the company that owns the shop, also retails cards at Siam Paragon. Just few steps from Viriya you’ll find Gandhi (326 Pahurat Rd., 02-225-5997/5503, www.gandhi.co.th), a long-running fabric outlet offering a wide variety of products but with an upscale focus. That means imported lace, satin and silk. Though it has been operating since 1944, there’s no sign of aging—everything is new and clean, and a big plasma TV plays Chic Channel at all times.

If you’re ready to leave behind the main thoroughfares and enter the maze of alleys that make up the market, turn down any one toward the sewing and tailoring market (like a budget Savile Row), where many khun pas with sewing machines help you turn raw fabric into a custom-made outfit in minutes. These freelancers originally occupied Ming Muang Market across the street (where Old Siam Plaza now stands), but moved here when Ming Muang was demolished in 1978. As you continue along the alleys, you’ll find fabric, fabric and more fabric. The textiles these vendors sell are cheaper (both in price and quality) than the big boys outside. Take your time and compare prices—the deals are there.

At the center of this area lies Thailand’s first Sikh temple Gurudwara Sri Guru Singh Sabha (565 Chak Phet Rd., 02-224-8097/-8, 02-221-1011) with its eye-catching golden domes and traditional Sikh architecture unchanged since 1933. (To go inside, women must cover their hair.)

Even if you’ve been around Pahurat you may not realize that it has a mezzanine with a number of small shops and stalls. Take the escalator (a big plus) in the alley across from Central Wangburapa, and you’ll reach one of Pahurat’s best-kept secrets. Here you can find Indian gold and silver jewelry, accessories and interesting fabrics and accessories like fur and feathers, as well as pashminas—the same quality you’d get elsewhere in Bangkok for a third of the price. Watch out for roaming cats, they are everywhere!

This is also a great place to find some good food. Indian specialties such as maak waan (Aun Maak Waan, a street vendor near Sunny Video) are a must-try. If you want something sweet, try sweetened grilled cassava (B30) or grilled bananas (B10), or head to Kanom Taan Pahurat (B20, 05-145-9838. Open Tue-Sun 9am-5pm).

Most vendors in Pahurat Market shut down at 5pm or so, so it’s best to arrive earlier in the day. One of the best days is Monday, when there are no street vendors on the sidewalks.

You certainly can’t miss the iridescent fire engine red of the aptly named red dot Traffic building along Maxwell Road. The building, which was vacant from 1999 till the end of 2005, has been recently refurbished and repackaged into a lifestyle hub, replete with a museum cum exhibition space dubbed the red dot Museum, restaurants, bars, a yoga studio and many creative agencies.

The space is bustling. There have been numerous activities taking place inside the building since it was inaugurated in November last year—including the Motorola SUPER-Style Mix, the mammoth celebration of art, style and fashion; the Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2006 Fashion Show; and the red dot Award Night, when creative design works were celebrated and awarded. Lined up for the busy space this year are events by Rolls Royce, Nokia, LaSalle-SIA College of the Arts, fashion label Coach, and the much anticipated MAAD (Market for Artists and Designers)—a weekly Sunday gig showcasing artworks by, you guessed it, local artists and designers. Indeed, the red dot Traffic building is fast establishing itself as one of the city’s fastest rising arts and creative hubs.

“Our vision is to create a critical mass of creative businesses—anchored by the red dot Museum—in one single location, resulting in a traffic of talents, ideas, events and collaboration relating to design and other creative industries,” says Carrie Lim, marketing manager of red dot Traffic. “With the capacity to host large-scale events, we are one of the most coveted venues for both private and public events. It wants to be that magnet that brings designers together, and the glue that binds the various elements necessary to create a vibrant creative community.”

Certainly, the red dot Traffic building is a burgeoning lifestyle hub. We check out what makes the place tick with its many creative tenants, and why the bars and restaurants there are worth visiting.

Traffic Jam

One of the first few tenants to move into red dot, Style Asia, founded by the stylish Hideki Akiyoshi, is just one of the many creative agencies and events companies that have moved into the building since November. Akiyoshi has held many events here, most notably the Motorola SUPER-Style Mix, which lasted for two weeks and incorporated many fashion shows, art exhibitions and music performances that raised the bar for the local creative scene. “Our business has always been about creating style ... and finding a good space is important,” says Akiyoshi. “red dot has a good mix of the old and new worlds, and it doesn’t come with the usual square offices associated with other working spaces.”

Another events company, Lumina Communications, whose clients include luxury fashion brands Hermes, Burberry, Ermegenildo Zegna, Swarovski and Prada, will also be moving into red dot within the next month.

Lumina is currently based in Henderson Industrial Park, and Managing Director David See finds that “the location, coupled with its new identity as a design-focused venue,” as its main draw. See adds: “As an events production and design agency with a strong creative and professional standpoint, we wanted a place which could communicate these elements and represent the creative side of our business, and we found it here.” And together with the need for a bigger space for sister company Communications DNA, See also quotes the potential for red dot to be an all-encompassing creative hub as the main reason they’re moving in.

Ditto Cre8 Singapore, a graphic design and print company. A huge factor for them is “it is conveniently located in the prime financial district, and many of my clients are in the CBD area,” says Account Director Steve Ng. The locale, of course, is an extremely attractive motive, as it doubles up in accessibility and as a melting pot for business opportunities. Ng is hopeful about the future as he applauds the building management in being very successful in hosting a number of distinctive events. He quips: “Well, Traffic brings more traffic.”

Eat, Drink and Relax

Certainly, red dot’s appeal lies in more than just its creative tenants. It also houses a slew of stylish bars, restaurants and spas. First up: the bar Artery (#01-04 red dot Traffic building, 28 Maxwell Rd. 6327-4820), which boasts an elongated rectangular and clean-cut layout atypical of most bars. The wine and drink counter rests on one side of the bar, while comfy red suede-like sofas line the other. “Artery was set up by Ken Koo and Ho Kee Lam, directors of red dot Museum, to make this place more hip and happening.” says its Manager Jess Kong. Conspicuously located directly opposite the red dot Musuem, visitors can conveniently walk over to Artery for a quick tipple after a visit to the museum space, or simply to chill out. Some of the recommended drinks here: The delightful Chocolate Milkshake-like Delight which contains Kahlua, but curiously does not have any alcoholic taste; and the Wasabi-Chu, a mixture of Shochu Japanese Spirit, wasabi, yogurt and fruit Martini. For the creative minds and those bored with convention, Artery is the place to hang out for a different atmosphere and its unconventional menu of drinks.

Also good is the sexy and cozy bar Skin (#01-05, red dot Traffic building, 28 Maxwell Rd., 6327-4638). The large number of professionals and stylish urbanites visiting red dot should be pleased by this chill-out lounge playing house and soul music. Perfect as a pre-party haunt for hardcore clubbers or as a casual business meeting place, Skin is good for a decadent drink or simply to sit pretty and sip champagne.

But if you’re looking for cool eats that’s not Rochester Park, hip French eatery Le Papillon (#01-02 red dot Traffic building, 28 Maxwell Rd., 6327-4177) is a brilliant bet. Its brightly lit long rectangular, Scandinavian-like dining room with white-splashed painted walls projects a cheery atmosphere while giving diners soothing and relaxed vibes. A hand painted mural at the end of the restaurant stands out with a whimsical depiction of a butterfly flying through the edge of the forest. Incidentally, the butterfly is an iconic symbol of the restaurant, as “Le Papillon” means “butterfly” in English. Chef Anderson Ho’s gift lies in his extraordinary ability to reinterpret classic dishes and flavors, and inventing unusual flavor combinations, resulting in delectable dishes that are novel both in taste and style. A few of his signature dishes include warm Caesar salad, Meredith goat cheese with pesto on watermelon and Pedro Ximenez reduction, and nage of white miso with scallops, prawns, clams and baby sea bream.

For lighter bites, try the popular Pacific Coffee Company (#01-01 red dot Traffic building, 28 Maxwell Rd., 6327-4835) for a decent selection of coffee, tea, blends, desserts and chow down on pork pastramis, roast lambs and minute steaks that will satisfy hunger pangs.

Attractive and minimalist yoga space La Vida Loft (#04-02 red dot Traffic building, 28 Maxwell Rd., 6324-2728) has also been pulling in the crowds. There is no glass panel or mirror inside the studio, and it is only when you see the yoga mats neatly arranged on the floor that it dawns on you that people come here to practise yoga. “The vibe here is different from other commercial buildings,” says Regina Chua, founder of La Viva Loft. “Here, it is a community, and everyone practically knows everybody else.” The yoga classes offered here too are mostly unique. Try the Urban Yoga to distress and revitalize, the Yogamamma to see pregnant woman through, and the Yogibabe for walking infants.

With so much activity and creativity taking place at the red dot Traffic, isn’t it time you dropped by for an exhibition or drink or two if you haven’t already?