In the beginning, Klong San was nothing but a pier on the Chao Phraya. But as throngs of ferry passengers shuffled down its boardwalk, business-savvy individuals were quick to set up shop at its gates. Nowadays, in the late afternoon, Klong San’s narrow alleys are jam-packed with high school and university students, employees finished with their day’s work, and even housewives—all in pursuit of tasty treats, hip fashion and a place to relax and swap gossip before heading home. Klong San really has it all and more, boasting some unusual places for a market, like nail salons and bookstores.

If you’re not already in Thonburi, you’ll need to cross over. Boarding takes place at Si-Phraya Pier, next to the Sheraton Hotel. For a whopping B2.50, a ferry will take you straight to Klong San Pier in minutes. If you’re coming from the Thonburi side, the market is on Charoennakorn Road. Get ready to sweat, this is an open-air market, not a “Glorious Phenomenon”—air-con, umbrellas, and cold towels are not included. The upside is that the prices are missing a few zeros compared to chic malls in the city center. We recommend:

Playground (Block E2-5, 01-868-1832. Open daily 11am-9pm) Fashionable blouses, skirts and knee-length dresses for the fashion conscious young woman on a budget. Prices range from B280-500.

Block D-06 (06-539-8325, Open daily 11am-9pm) No, you’re not in Khao San. Embroidered Indian dresses, cloth bags and even shoes range from B300 to B1,000. Unfortunately, the saris and scarves didn’t look very authentic to us.

Prangkob (Block 63. Open daily 11am-8pm) Seven minutes to paint your nails means less than a minute a finger! Even the busiest exec can afford the time unless her brain freezes trying to choose from the plethora of designs. But at B100 for all 10 of your precious fingers, you don’t even have to be an exec to enjoy it.

The market has just been extended with a brand new, very clean-looking zone with lots of cute shops (all open noon-9pm). Fewer people, wider alleys, and even a view on the river make for a much more relaxed shopping experience, plus the shops have more personality. Blood Scatter (shop E8) has punky leather wristbands (B100) and hand-painted T-shirts (B350); Superboy (shop F9) is more Victorian, with knee-length dresses (B590), embroidered jeans (B790) and blouses with lace (B199). Great for those cold Bangkok winters, Block B1-C1 (09-745-1245. Open daily noon-9pm) has a selection of fake fur coats (B850) and real leather jackets (B950). One of its walls is simply covered in belts (B80), and they also carry bags (B150-200). You can’t miss Zhamoo (Block D1, 07-913-9179) with its trashy Barbie dolls, bowling pins, and vintage furniture. Prices range from B190-890 for retro first and second-hand women’s wear.

If your sugar level is dropping, 71/17 Hub (stall 71/17, 01-622-1992, 01-926-5027. Open Mon-Sat 6am-9pm, Sun 11am-9pm) will serve you soft smoothies at B25-35, pastries and bread (B15-35). They also sell clothes. Come early to listen to the only decent music around and grab the single table the shop has to offer.

Another treat is the famous Bua Loi Kai Kem (Block E5/2, 01-697-5971. Open daily 2-7pm). The most typical bua loi (Thai style taro balls in coconut milk) is bua loi kai kem (B18), but you could be experimental and try bua loi kai waan (B16), bua loi kai kem koo (B24) or even bua loi kai waan koo (B21). Further down the market, grab a refreshing drink at Naam Jub Liang (a small stall next to Block S 01, Open daily 11am-9pm) to wash down your sugar high.