ANGEL’S BISTRO
Angel’s Bistro is a hit with the health junkies. Fusion vegetarian food prepared in a healthy and delicious way is their forte. Their signature brown rice set sells out by lunch time—and it’s easy to see why.

BENG HIANG HOKKIEN RESTAURANT
Beng Hiang, with its 30 years of heritage, serves up authentic Hokkien fare. This is a perfect place for extravagant Chinese meals. Choose from their set menus ($278‑978), which include abalone and steamed garoupas.

BOSTON WINE COMPANY
An incredibly cramped space this is, but the impressive interior décor and array of pizzas can make you forgive it all.

FOU DE FAFA
Helmed by a holistic nutritionist, the menu here is as healthy as it is quirky. The huge variety of options include jumbo sandwiches, juices, wraps, quiches, super‑thin crust pizzas and whatever new creations the owners can think of.

HACHI TEI
Customers have raved about the impeccable service provided at this Japanese eatery. Expect wallet‑friendly and perfectly executed bento sets such as the grilled teriyaki cod bento set.

HAM JI PAK
A must‑try on their menu is the Bo Ssäm—finely‑cut pork belly, tasty kimchi with fresh oysters all wrapped in a piece of lettuce. You can be sure of quality ingredients as the owner of Ham Ji Pak also operates Koreana Mart (a local Korean supermarket).

HIDE & SEEK

The name is apt. With a Chinese signboard at its shopfront, this indie boutique might confuse you but step right in and you’ll discover a treasure trove of uber cool brands (Karen Walker, Nooka, Vice & Vanity and Ksubi are among them).

HONJIN RESTAURANT & BAR
Popular with busy Shenton Way types, this hole‑in‑the‑wall Japanese joint specializes in business luncheons and à la carte buffet dinners. The negima shiru (tuna belly soup) is a star dish.

KA SOH FISH HEAD NOODLES
The history of this restaurant dates way back to the 1940s. Their signature fish head noodle is famous for the creamy texture of its soup.

L’OLIVIER
With an historic Chinese temple situated just opposite and a landscaped garden as part of its surroundings, L’Olivier provides an ideal ambiance. It’s fine French cuisine at reasonable prices. We think their braised short‑ribs in red wine and veal jus is a winner.

MANNA KOREAN RESTAURANT
The lunch specials (which include a wide array of side dishes, a meat main course and a jug of cold tea) at this unpretentious, inconspicuous Korean restaurant are tasty and really good value. Service is also prompt and efficient, making it a good alternative to the oily confines of a hawker center.

MOMENTOUS ARTS

This gallery specializes in a wide genre of contemporary arts featuring ceramics, paintings and sculptures with a huge focus on Asian artists.

NEW TAIWAN PORRIDGE RESTAURANT
The no‑frills interior of this restaurant doesn’t provide a hint of just how good the food is going to be. Order a bunch of items and have them with sweet potato porridge. Top sellers are the omelets; chicken and garlic in claypot; and delicious shrimp rolls.

OCEAN CURRY FISH HEAD
This place gets maddeningly crowded during office lunch hours. Even on scorching days, you’ll find this stuffy non‑air‑conditioned eatery packed with hungry corporate types.

PHO 99
This cramped little eatery is impossible to miss with its striking green exterior. We give their beef pho, which comes with thinly sliced beef and beef balls, the thumbs up.

PORTA‑PORTA ITALIAN RESTAURANT
This is a friendly family‑run establishment serving yummy home‑style Italian cooking. Porta’s sets are divided into seafood, meat and vegetarian—all really good, especially the black ravioli in crab meat sauce.

PURA VIDA
Nice food and a great ambiance are what sum up this six‑month‑old diner that serves up familiar food at really affordable prices. Order yourself some good old fish and chips or a black pepper chicken steak while soaking in the atmosphere.

STRANGELETS
If you’re seeking unusual items, this is the go‑to store. A polar bear bookshelf ($1,250) and a retro‑looking MP3 compatible radio ($440) are just a couple of the weird and wonderful things you’ll find here.

THE SUIT FACTORY
This store sells well‑made off‑the‑rack suits from Dan Stevenson and Benjamin Parker. Shoes and other stylish accessories for men are sold here too.

TASTE DELIGHTS
From $3.50 for the daily soup to $18 for a fish head steamboat, the spread of local favorites such as mee goreng and claypot rice is certainly a delight with the office workers around the area. Some of the chef’s recommendations include the tasty Kung Po chicken and prawn fritters.

TRUFFS
A place for true connoisseurs. Specializing only in dark chocolate truffles, choose from 55 percent équateur, 66 percent antilles or 70 percent Honduras. All cocoa‑dusted gems are handmade with ingredients flown in from France and free from preservatives.

URBAN BITES MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE
Enjoy Western and Middle‑Eastern food cooked up by the native Lebanese chef here. The homely interior and value‑for‑money cuisine (all dishes at $5‑20) make for a welcome dining experience indeed. Their kebabs are highly recommended.

VANILLA BAR & CAFÉ
This charming little café focuses on Japanese and Western fusion desserts and snacks. Their Vanilla Dirt Cake is one of the highlights on the menu, as are their English breakfast and sandwiches.

More in Chinatown:
Duxton / Gopeng / Hoe Chiang / Tanjong Pagar / Teck Lim
Ann Siang / Club / Erskine / Maxwell
Bukit Pasoh / Keong Saik / Kreta Ayer
Smith / Temple / Trengganu

One of the city’s most culturally rich enclaves is where the old world truly meets the new. Where else can you find kopitiams selling one dollar coffee located right next to the latest hip boutique hotel or chic rooftop bar? It is exactly this hodge-podge that lends Chinatown its authentic edge: From Club Street’s calculated coolness to the edgy (now somewhat cleaned-up) streets of Duxton, from the backstreet yet uptempo charms of Bukit Pasoh to the foodie and lifestyle haven in the Amoy/Telok Ayer vicinity—Chinatown promises unending surprise at every turn.

Your Chinatown tour begins a click away:
Amoy / Boon Tat / Robinson / Stanley / Telok Ayer
Duxton / Gopeng / Hoe Chiang / Tanjong Pagar / Teck Lim
Ann Siang / Club / Erskine / Maxwell
Bukit Pasoh / Keong Saik / Kreta Ayer
Smith / Temple / Trengganu

Suan Luang and Sam Yam Markets have now been razed to the ground, as part of Chula’s development plans. Long-time food vendors have lost their original spots and, now that parking has gone, a good chunk of clientele. Still, many famous vendors are persevering, and here we round up some long-time favorites.

1) Pheng Pochana

Chula Soi 20, Suang Luang Market. Open daily 3-11pm, 081-899-2173
Just across the street from the demolished market, Pheng Pochana has long been famed for its gway tiew khua kai, which they do with several variations ranging from just chicken and pickled squid (B30) to taro (B40). They have the technique of dry-frying the noodles and lightly charring them down to an exact science, plus their pickled squid are chewy without being too chewy and have just the right amount of fishy flavor. We also like their preparation of the egg, which is lightly scrambled and set on top of the noodles, not mixed in. Watch out for the inexplicably mean manager lady, though.

2) Seng Sim Ee

Chula Soi 5, Suan Luang Market, 02-214-0612.
Open daily noon-midnight
Around for several generations, Sing Sem Ee has been the go-to nam khaeng sai (Chinese shaved ice and syrup dessert) place for Chula kids and neighborhood enthusiasts. While the recent changes to the area have meant a slight dip in customers, the place is still full to the brim most nights, necessitating table-sharing. If you’re anything like us, cover your head, duck and run past the bees swarming the dazzling display of over twenty sweet toppings out front to reach the safety of the back room. Here you can enjoy the range of rice flour balls, pickled plums, glass noodles, balls of ice and more. Prices for a bowl range from B20-40.

3) Paw Pang Ping

168, Chula Soi 5, Suan Luang Market, 084-911-8896.
Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm
This famous grilled bread (khanom pang ping) cart had been sat outside Sam Yan until the demolition. Now it has moved across the street, conveniently next to Sing Sem Ee, where it now has to stay open longer to break even, due to the diminished customer base. The shopfront grill operation lures you in with its range of toppings, including more pricey ones like coconut paste (B30) and ice shavings (B30). Most range from B15-18, though, and they also do Thai iced tea and related drinks. If you’re lucky, you might also spot the cute cat in the dining room.

4) Rad Na kiang empire

Corner of Chula sois 20 and 5, 089-771-8131.
Open daily 11:30am-11pm
At the corner of the two sois, diagonally across from a bua loy cart and flanked by moo daeng stalls, is a little shophouse that specializes in pad see ew and rad na (B30-40). Not much more to say, except that the special, marinated kiang recipe is delicious, especially the rad na broth which is slightly gelatinous and porky, and that the outdoor seating on the corner gives a really nice, wide angle vantage point for people watching in the evening.

5) Khao Moo Daeng Nakhon Pathom

206, Chula Soi 50, 02-215-4354. Open 5am-3:30pm
Many of the food vendors from the now-demolished Sam Yan Market have been moved to this little soi, flanked on both sides by two-story shophouses. This moo daeng (red pork) place proudly says on its sign “the old face of Sam Yan” and dishes up a very generous B30 plate of rice with moo daeng, moo krob (crispy, three-layered pork) and Chinese sausage. Tea and ice are free—that’s old school hospitality.

6) Khao Man Kai Sam Yan

234, Chula Soi 50, 089-007-4585. Open daily 7am-5:30pm
Further down the street is the new home of a forty-year-old khao man kai (Haianese chicken rice) stall from Sam Yan Market. We like the cute little shophouse with its pale green walls, the long mirror and the odd combination of old wooden booths on one side and metal tables with plastic stools on the other. In addition to khao man kai (B30-40), they also do a mean gway tiew ped (duck noodles, B30-40).

Balestier, being the “underground” hood that it is, offers far out things for you to do. A 10-piece live band from India plays fun renditions of Tamil and Bollywood hits at Jeanz Live (#01-17 Balestier Complex, 262 Balestier Rd., 6256-6569). This is where you can let your guard down and dance with reckless abandon. Or pop by KTV lounge and hostess bar Beauty Jade Bar (571 Balestier Rd.) and pay $20 or so for a special lady to chat with you over a beer or two (you’re paying for her drink too, naturally). They have a special promo now where a bottle of Japanese wine goes for $90.

If you got lucky at the clubs and there’s actually someone that you might want to know better, you can check into one of the budget hotels along Balestier Road. One of the classier ones is Aqueen Hotel Balestier (387 Balestier Rd., 6593-0999). Rates start at $120 for a double bed, complimentary in-room broadband and wireless access and a 32-inch LCD TV with cable channels.

All that leftfield entertaining might take a toll on you. Thankfully, Balestier is home to some value-for-money massage places. At Happy Feet Foot Reflexology Centre (#01-945 Blk. 86 Whampoa Dr., 6254-4688), you can indulge in a 60-minute full body massage for just $42 or a 30-minute shoulder massage for $22. Alternatively, opt for a 15-minute therapeutic Natural Ginger Foot Spa for just $10. For a dose of holistic healing, try Bo Ai Therapeutic (#01-324 Blk. 74 Whampoa Dr., 6255-5686), which specializes in treating knee pain and injuries. They also offer acupuncture and acupressure services, and foot therapy and stiff neck or shoulder ache treatments.

Stop by Lam Yeo Coffee Powder Factory (328 Balestier Rd.) for a slice of old Balestier and buy yourself some specialty coffee straight from Bali for $21 per kg. If you’re more of a tea person, check out Gan Cheng Chuan Kim Kee Tea Merchant (Blk. 81 Whampoa Dr.) for traditional biscuits and tea. Or you might fancy picking up an aluminium tea pot at the unnamed shop house on 379 Balestier Road or a birdcage from Ann Soon Hong Bird Shop (315 Balestier Rd.).

BACK to Novena

Most notable is Casa Nuovo (471/473 Balestier Rd., 6251-5570), the official lighting partner for Swarovski. Every single fixture is magnificently crafted using Swarovski crystals—from the groovy toilet signs ($400) to a minimal ceiling light ($150) to the centerpiece in the store—a chandelier to end all chandeliers ($15,500) made from literally hundreds of crystals.

Less decadent but equally cool is Eurostar Lighting & Furnishings (453/455 Balestier Rd., 6251-0018). We especially dig the thoroughly modern and minimalist Collective Luces wall lights which double up as a mirror ($400 upwards) by Spanish designer Maurizio Ferrari, and the very cool top hats hanging lights ($250 upwards).
For other decent selections, try Lightings.com.sg (515 Balestier Rd., 6256-0080), Etoile Lumiere (329 Balestier Rd., 6253-0103) and The Light Shop (317 Balestier Rd., 6295-8431).

But what’s good lighting without good design? Hop on over to De Design (2 Whampoa Dr., 6254-9718) for some groovy home furnishing picks. Owner Henry Chan carries an assortment of items here: From metal chandelier lamps ($600) that will look great in the living room, to one-of-a-kind furniture, rugs, table lamps, cabinets and paintings sourced from Vietnam, Bangkok and Malaysia—every piece here is special and has its own story.

For more contemporary furnishing, try Living Vision (#01-20/21 Balestier Point, 279 Balestier Rd., 6256-7756). The Italian-inspired collection is clean and modern, although pieces are produced locally to ensure that prices remain competitive. A hip dining set sets you back $1,500, but check out the cool beehive lights ($690) and a thoroughly well-made wooden chair ($690).

Or try the ever reliable Scanteak (1 Pegu Rd., 6355-0208) for quality wood furnishing.

Just around the corner is Ted Collection (277 Balestier Rd., 6227-9577), specializing in haute couture gowns and dresses great for special balls and parties. Designers Don and Alvin can be seen at work handcrafting the clothes from scratch. Keep a look out for their gorgeous cheongsams ($800 upwards).

Funky streetwear can be found at Terpoa Department Trading (#01-839 Blk. 89 Whampoa Dr.). Most of the items are imported from China, but if you look hard enough, you’ll find hidden gems in the form of a pair of checkered mens shoes ($39.90) that could pass as Comme des Garcons and casual Converse-inspired slip-ons ($19.90). Also, you can bargain down the prices here.

Authentic vintage glasses can be had at Lim Kay Chee Optical (330 Balestier Rd., 6256-4635), carrying hundreds of pairs of chic eyewear from just $39.90. Those who have been paying a couple of hundred for these babies elsewhere will be glad to know that these are the real deal. Lim Kay Chee manages to keep the prices down because they’re also the wholesalers—this is probably the best kept shopping secret in the whole of Balestier.

NEXT: Other things to do in Balestier

Balestier is famous for its age-old street food—especially the bah kut teh and chicken rice stalls. For the former, noteworthy mentions include the slightly peppery version at Founder Bah Kut Teh (347 Balestier Rd.), or 333 Bah Kut Teh (333 Balestier Rd.) for its generous servings.

Chicken rice lovers can head for Loy Kee Chicken Rice (342 Balestier Rd., 6252-2318) or Boon Tong Kee (401 Balestier Rd., 6254-3937). Their signature juicy roast chicken is the star (any foodie can testify). But if you prefer duck, choose the succulent roasted ducks at Golden Duck Restaurant (369 Balestier Rd.)

For variety, head to the restored coffee shop Tuckshoppe (312 Balestier Rd.), which serves up classic hawker fare like curry rice and roasted pork rice. If you really want more and don’t mind getting down and dirty with the rest of the locals, move on to Whampoa Makan Place (Blk. 90/91 Whampoa Dr.), an expansive hawker center that serves up a wide and very affordable array of local cuisine. Must-tries here include the frog porridge at Tian Fu Live Frog and Porridge, the handmade Chinese cha siew buns at Yep Seng Handmade Pau Tim, and the Chinese pancakes at Granny’s Pancake.

If you’re coming late into the area, just head straight to the 24-hour food court Balestier Market (401 Balestier Rd.), where local favorites like rojak and satay are served till the wee hours of the morning.

NEXT: Shopping in Balestier

The Art Republic
#03-35, 6356-8289.
For those looking for one-of-a-kind gifts, check out this store which specializes in unique scrapbooks and handicrafts handmade by a small team of designers. They also offer special craft paper exclusive to their store.

Deborah
#03-07, 6356-7390.
Hunting for that past season Prada, Gucci or Chloe bag? You’re most likely to find it here. Some of the highlights include a Chloe Marcie Hobo calf leather handbag and a large YSL Roady bag which comes with metallic rivets and gorgeous studs.

Harry’s Bar
#01-59/60, 6478-3010.
Come here for post-dinner drinks like the potent house cocktails Sunset Paradise and Peach Schnapps (both $9). Fine, the staple beer by the tap will work too.

Lao Beijing
#02-11, 6358-4466.
The mostly-wood décor sets the mood for an intimate dinner: Their xiao long bao and Peking duck are highlights, while dim sums such as siew mai and har gao are great as afternoon tea snacks.

Puma Lifestyle Store
#02-56/59, 6258-7600.
Fans of the classic Puma brand will be glad to know that this factory outlet store offers a wide range of past season fashion apparel—mostly at half price.

Salad Stop!
#02-24, 6820-0158.
One of our favorite salads and wraps joints offers tasty, healthy food from just $9. Make your own salad or wrap (choose from four types including wholegrain or spinach flavored) by choosing from almost 50 (you heard us right) ingredients—including avocado, beetroot, brown rice, broccoli and chickpeas—and munch away!

NEXT: Dining in Balestier

CD Plus

#B1-56K/L, 6259-3320.

For those starved of good New Age music, you’re most likely to find that ambient CD here. Specializing in music to soothe our hectic lifestyles, owner Alan Tan stocks a multitude of New Age, jazz, classical and audiophile favorites, as well as regional titles. Expect to find a good selection of concert DVDs too.

Grandma’s
#B1-17/32/33, 6356-5434.
For some wholsesome, home-made Peranakan-inspired and local dishes, look no further than Grandma’s. Must-tries include the nasi lemak, curry chicken and a sambal kangkong that will work up a sweat.

Jalan Kayu—The Prata Café
#01-12/13, 9237-9005.
You don’t have to travel all the way to Jalan Kayu to have your fix of hearty prata anymore. This is where all the office workers come during lunch hour for some cheese prata ($2), chicken murtabak ($3) and Milo Dinosaur ($2), or just a cup of teh tarik ($1) to get through the day.

Mandeville Music & Drama
#03-21, 6250-1911.
Mandeville stocks an assortment of violins, drums, guitars and pianos from the US and Europe ($190 upwards), and holds classes for those wanting to try their hand. Membership starts at just $10.

San Bookshop
#B1-56F, 6256-1184.
This beloved secondhand bookstore stocks anything and everything—from murder-mystery to romance to horror to non-fiction. Rental starts at just $2 per book.

NEXT: Novena Square / Velocity 

Da Luca
#01-19/21, 6258-4846.
This 55-seater, three-month-old Italian joint is the pioneering effort of young Italian chef Luca Pucciani, who hand-makes all his pastas in his kitchen, ensuring the authenticity of his dishes. Already a favorite among the Italian community in this city, highlights include linguini with fresh prawns in squid ink sauce ($22.90) and T-bone steak with seasonal vegetable and mustard sauce ($54.90). Top off an excellent meal here with a glass of house wine from $12.

Pub
#01-01, 6259-9053.
Shoot the breeze at this mostly-expat joint where the beers are cheap ($8 upwards) and the crowd convivial. The vibe is similar to that of Charlie’s, so just kick back, relax and perhaps, make a few new friends along the way.

ROSZY’s tiffin house
#01-203, 6225-4788.
Set up by former shipping consultant Rosny James, this cozy café offers homestyle Javanese cuisine like nasi ambeng ($18 per person), a stacked rice platter that’s usually prepared during weddings in Java, and a very delicious one at that. It comes complete with seven dishes, including fried ikan teggiri, sambal goreng and bagadel (Indonesian potato cutlet). The mango sambal here is also pretty awesome.

Udders
155 Thomson Rd., 6254-6629.
Great after a hot day under the sun, Udders offers a huge range of liqueur and Asian-inspired homemade ice-creams including lychee martini, java whiskey choc and Bailey’s & Bourbon. The ice-cream café’s modern layout is also very inviting.

Wine + Superstore
#01-05/11, 6253-9151.
A massive 4,000 sq. ft. showroom which stocks over 500 wine labels and a wide variety of champagne, whiskey, liquor and spirits. Prices are competitive, but it’s the weekly in-store promotional prices and regular wine tastings that make it worth visiting often. And, it has the biggest white wine collection in the city.

NEXT: UNITED SQUARE