There are more than a few reasons why we love Novena and Balestier. Sandwiched between the city center, Bukit Timah and Little India, these neighbors are the city’s most accessible and interesting “suburbs,” with a myriad of shopping, dining and leisure options for those who stay around the area. But for those who don’t live in the hood, it’s worth venturing down to soak in the eclectic atmosphere, especially for Balestier’s ghetto-like street offerings, while the more contemporary Novena has some pretty interesting shops that rival those on Orchard Road. It’s the wonderful contrast between the two that draws us back there time and time again—perhaps it’s time you visited too.

Square 2

10 Sinaran Dr.
Although known predominantly for Korean fashion, there is a slew of other cool shops here like music store The Attic and countless choice boutiques that will win you over with their quirky charm spanning four floors.

18 Karaats
#01-13, 6397-6430.
Never mind that they are simulated diamonds—the rings, necklaces and pendants found here ($300-2,000) are gorgeously set.

The Attic
#01-64, 6235-0165.
Owner Bobby Yeo, a veteran in the local music scene, specializes in rare imported CDs and vinyls spanning rock, jazz, R&B, folk and oldies. Some of the gems found here include a limited edition Bob Dylan box set ($200) and Japanese import albums by Jethro Tull and Joni Mitchell ($50 upwards).

Chocolato
#02-68/69, 6397-7358.
This chocolate specialist offers a welcome respite after a hard day’s worth of shopping in the mall. We recommend the gelatos here—from pistachio to rum & raisin to caramel—for just $4.90 per scoop. Or if you like your chocolates purer, try the Venezuelan and Caribbean Islands chocolates by the piece.

The Clothier Place
#01-50, 8228-2289.
If you’re a self-confessed cool kid looking for that elusive rag, then you’ve come to the right place. This place stocks affordable clothes from underground local label Men-Da. We especially dig the trendy hats ($29), and the shirts are a steal at $39-89 (various designs).

Fravis Array
#02-41/42, 9844-3398.
This month-old boutique features a selection of classic dresses and jackets with a modern twist imported mostly from Hong Kong and Taiwan. We like the navy drape wrap dress ($54.90) with its cut and carefully layered drapes, and the taupe corduroy jacket with round bronze buttons down the front ($44.90).

Girls Over Flowers
#03-114/115, 6397-2678.
Girls Over Flowers imports apparel and bags that are often seen on Korean girl groups or boybands. We fell in love with a pair of washed-out slim cut jeans ($59) and a Marilyn Monroe graphic cotton long-sleeved tee ($25).

Han Sang Korean Family Restaurant
#03-32-35/40-44, 6397-6752.
Tying in with the Korean-inspired concept of Square 2, Han Sang Family Korean Restaurant is one of the better Korean restaurants here. We like the Samgye-Tang or Korean Ginseng Chicken Soup ($23), one of their signature dishes, a delicate and clear broth which complements chicken bits, ginseng and glutinous rice stuffing—yum.

JEMS
#01-70, 6397-6568.
Specializing in imported fashion from Hong Kong, Korea, Japan and Italy, some of the highlights here include the silk ruffled shorts ($59), red-with-a-tinge-of-leopard-print dress ($99) and the genuine leather tote bags ($59) in brown, orange and aquamarine blue.

Kimi Organics
#03-47, 6397-6890.
Founder Alicia Tan is an advocate for healthy eating, so she set up this store which specializes in organic foods imported from the US and Australia. It is the sole distributor and retailer of One Healthy Habit’s 100% Organic Mangosteen Juice ($50 for 700ml), a refreshing drink that boasts antioxidant properties. If you prefer to snack, check out the Sensible Foods Organic Crunch Dried Snacks ($5).

Mama Patisserie
#02-06/07, 6397-6789.
Mama Patisserie bakes all bread and pastries daily with premium Japanese flour and no preservatives. Some of their loaves like black sesame ($2.30) and pain de mie ($1.90) contain no egg, making them healthier options. Their signature bread is the Chocolate Bowl ($2.50), a dome-shaped fluffy chocolate confection studded with dark chocolate chips. For something savory, try the wasabi mayo crayfish bread ($1.80).

Matsu
#02-70, 6397-6009.
One of the better street style boutiques for men, the store is chock-full of men’s shirts ($39.90 upwards), trucker caps ($29.90 upwards) and belts and accessories. One for the young or the young at heart.

Merry Mary
#02-62, 6397-7009/9772-4107.
With an array of toga dresses ($20-30) and prom dresses ($39,90), this treasure trove carries so many items, you’ll really need to dig to find the good stuff. Our picks: A fashionable and functional fishnet grey knit vest ($25) and an ethnic apple green embroidered tote bag imported from Vietnam ($25).

Ns’ Boutique
#01-168/169, 6397-2628.
A hot favorite among tai-tais in the area, the inviting interior is where standout pieces like studded heels ($99 upwards) and “cut” designer labels ($150 upwards) can be found. You’ve got to dig through the racks for your favorite as pieces are very limited, but well worth the effort.

natalie e
#02-03, 9748-0824.
Tastefully furnished by proprietor Shirley Chew with miniature paintings of Paris and antique-looking wallpaper, Natalie e houses two brands: Natalie e is a collection of classic styles for workwear, such as a black-and-white sleeveless shift dress ($97) and a coral pink capsleeved shift dress ($95), while Nicole David’s range of clothes features richer fabrics, such as a beautiful lilac lace overlay dress ($159) and a unique black polyester mix dress with curly white embroidery ($209).

Polish The Nails Room
#04-06, 6397-6597.
The first thing that attracts you about Polish is the red chinoiserie decor and plush armchairs. The next thing you notice is the warm, friendly attitude of the nail technicians. Offering over 400 nail colors from OPI to China Glaze, Polish is known for its hygienic pedicures and patient service. A usual express manicure or pedicure here costs $12.

Quiznos
#01-47, 6397-2420.
We love the healthy portions of the premium sandwiches found here, which are a step up from the usual Subway variety. Try the spicy beef & cheddar with bacon or the smokey chili turkey ($6.90 for 6”, $10.30 for 12”), best with savory soups of broccoli cheese and chicken noodle ($3.50 per bowl).

ResearchBooks Asia
#03-22, 6252-5575
This is the place to go for science and health and fitness books. The collection here is almost as astounding as the various anatomical models and skeleton replicas which could make cool interior objects. They also take special orders—yes, even for non-science related books.

Roff
#03-04, 6397-2616.
Come here for the varied ties, which are currently on sale for just $35 per piece, or $60 for any two designs. Selected shirts are also at 40 percent off—the classic white pieces are definitely good bets.

Silence Concept
#01-153/154, 6222-1128.
Don’t let its simple facade fool you. Targeting PMEBs, Silence Concept sells tops and dresses that are pretty fashionable: The lace kimono top in white or yellow ($89.90) is a nice dress-down Friday separate, while the white lace overlay dress ($71.90) and muted red shiftdress ($89.90) both deserve a place in any office wardrobe.

Siss
#01-31, 6397-6505.
Owner Joanie Lee sources all the pieces in her store from Hong Kong and Korea. Apart from the quality leather bags under her own Carry N Wear label ($150 upwards) and emerging regional brands like Gisele and Paisley, some of the highlights here include the one-off frilly silk dress ($169) and other rare finds.

Urban Tool
#02-60, 6397-7069.
Catering to those who wish to travel light, the range of bags here is affordable and stylish. The slotBar ($75) comes in six colors and can be used in three ways: As a sling bag, waist pouch or mini handbag. The style-conscious can even custom-make their very own with embroidered Swarovski crystals ($52-189, depending on the complexity of the design).

Zen Beauty
#03-88/106, 6397-7168.
This place offers facial/spa, nails, foot refloxology and eyebrow services in a luxurious and intimate setting.
 

NEXT: Goldhill Plaza-Centre / United Square / Novena Square-VeloCity

SKIP to Balestier

Antique and Unique

With its aging looks, dusty glass cabinets and antique clocks on the wall, this little clock repair shop has a lot of charm. Inside, Ratanachai Angkontee, 28, the young and amiable talks to us about his fascination with this bygone business.
How long have you been here? All my life. My father, Wanchai Angkontee, 55, learned this skill from his brother and opened the clock shop here and I learned the business from him since I was a kid.
How has the business changed? Now that Sapan Khwai has been growing so fast with more shops, malls and condos, [landlords] have hiked up the rent. Many shops are not able to keep up, so they moved away, and now there are fewer people than there used to be.
What’s your working day like? We now focus only on fixing clocks, especially old ones, as we have a lot of customers with antique timepieces. Sometimes it takes years and years to fix only one clock because it’s hard to find the parts. Anyway, our clients trust us and wait until we can make their precious antiques come back to life.
How’s business these days? It’s not really huge but it’s steady. We’re now well-known as “father and son mechanics” because we both work together. 80% of our customers are regulars who know my father, and another 10-20% are walk ins and those who learn about us from our website [www.spkwatchservice.com].
Have you ever had other jobs? My father, no, but I used to be a webmaster before. I decided to quit when my father got a cataract in his eye, and I came back to help him.
Is there anyone asking about buying this building? No. But we rent our space in this building, and the rent goes up every year. And the contract is only year by year, so if they suddenly decided not to rent the space to us anymore, we wouldn’t have a shop at all. We might only be open through the website, since clients today just search on Google to find everything that they want. We rank high on searches if people Google about antique clock repairers, so I think it’s a new chance for our business to grow. I also plan to start our own antique clock brand.

Demolished drugstore

Walking along Phaholyothin Road in Sapankhwai, there’s plenty of advertising for the brand new luxury condos that are due to pop up there in the coming months. Here we talk to Ussanee Wiriyangul, 45, the owner of a pharmacy that’s going to be torn down soon to make way for the entrance of the new condo.
How long have you been here? At least 38 years. My family started renting this building when the neighborhood was still technically a rural area on the fringes of Bangkok. There were lots of buffalos walking around—hence the name of this area, Sapan Khwai.
What was the area like back then? A lot busier because our location is near the market. Now the business isn’t really going that well, but it’s steady. But there was a time when we had huge sales like we’d never seen before, during the Sixtieth Anniversary Celebrations of His Majesty’s Accession to the Throne. There were many royal guests from many countries. The Sultan of Brunei’s entourage came to buy all the drugs in our store. Our pockets were enough to to keep money!
Have you ever done any other business? Never. This is our family business.
What about your children? Do they take care of the business or support you to? I don’t know if they will want to inherit it from me or not. They’re still young. One of my sons is really capable. He won the gold medal in an international mathematics competition so he might continue his studies and win a scholarship.
Is there anyone asking about buying this building? It’s already been sold to developers who are building a big condominium. They told us that we have to vacate before the end of the month. All my family members are now separated. Now I have only my family and my mom. It’s reduced from 9 to 5. Others are busy with their own families or have gone off to study.
How do you feel about this? It’s pretty heartbreaking because we have lived here for so long but we have to accept it. This building isn’t ours. We have to vacate it.

Tailor

These days if your zip breaks or you get a hole in your shirt you’ll probably just go and buy a new outfit, which makes street tailors a lot less popular. Kyaw Yen, 55, the man behind the sewing machine near Saphan Khwai tells us what business is like.
How long have you been here? About 7-8 years. I used to work as an aluminum worker. I was getting old so I decided to quit. I decided to do this because I already knew how to sew.
How do you run this business? I am here from 9.30am-5.30pm and just wait for customers.
Is business good? It’s not great. Still I have regular clients and I make an OK living. Sometimes I make B300-500 per day but some days I get just B20. It depends.
What about your family? I stay with my wife. There’s only the two of us so it’s OK.

Mom and pop shop

Sutthisan Road used to be all about pubs and bars. But after the entertainment venues gradually shifted to other locations and the alcohol laws got stricter, the nightlife in this area changed as well, as did the little retail shop belonging to Srinual Santisukbamroong, 69.
How long have you been here? My shop has been around 25 years, but the space itself is about 50-60 years old. I bought it from the previous owners and started my retail shop.
What was it like in the old days? There were many customers because this area used to be a busy district—lots of shops and bars. A lot of women who worked at night would come to buy stuff at our shop. Today there aren’t as many pubs, and there aren’t as many women who work at night.
How do you run this business? We only order what we know we can sell. Now we can’t sell groceries anymore, because there are no buyers. We still stock things like soap, toothpaste and alcohol. My daughter-in-law just opened a little phone kiosk in the shop to sell mobile phones and sim cards to people around our neighborhood.
Have you ever done any other business? No.
What about your children? Do they take care of this business? Yes, they are now taking care of it. I just help them.
Street books
At the foot of a stairway to BTS Thonglor, Chak Inthukate, 47, sits and waits for commuters to buy his secondhand books laid out flat on an improvised shelf wedged into the wall.
How long have you been doing this job? At least 21 years. I used to never take anything seriously. One day I decided to do something to make a living and wanted to open a book shop. I walked along the street, found a spot on Thonglor and have stayed here since then. I chose to sell secondhand books because I love books. It’s a product that lasts forever.
How have things changed? People read more and the streets are busier. It used to be a bus stop here, before the BTS. When the BTS opened, the administrators banned us from selling anything near the exits. I was lucky enough to get permission from the owner of a nearby house to set up this shelf on their wall. The other sellers had to move.
How’s business? It’s gone down again recently. Thai people normally don’t read much but it’s gotten worse with the internet. People don’t have to buy books to find something to read anymore.
How much do you earn per month? Nearly 100,000.
What would you do if you couldn’t do this anymore? I plan to get into the food business when I can’t do this anymore. I am now older, can’t carry heavy things like books like I used to. I also think the book biz will not grow anymore. It’s declining.

Everywhere we look these days it seems like old shophouses and old family homes are being knocked down and replaced with shiny monoliths to urban living. Sure we all yearn to live in state-of-the-art condominiums but at what cost? Condo living may suit our modern lifestyles but it also has a major impact on the local community. Condo-dwellers don’t sit out front of their shop, chatting to passers by, they don’t even necessarily know who their neighbors are. They leave for work in the morning, come home at night after dinner, maybe spend an hour in their air-con gym before hitting the sack. Condo-dwellers don’t get their clothes fixed at the local street tailor, don’t buy their new brush from the guy with the hand cart—they drive to the nearest community mall and buy everything from their brandname store and supermarket.

And if there’s no one buying your brush or dropping by your mom and pop shop then what is a small shop owner you do—especially when faced with rising rent? Pack up the business, look for alternate employment and another place to live. Taken to the logical extreme it means a day will come when you step into your soi and all you find is a row of fancy condos but nowhere to shop, eat or get your watch fixed. Before that sorry day arrives we headed out to the streets and talked to the people still making a living out on your soi before they disappear for good.

A Dying Art?

Spotting Khon Yom Pah Suwanchai Sae-tang, 48, is like catching a bygone scene from Bangkok’s past. He travels the streets with his stove and dyeing gear strapped to his bicycle alerting potential customers with a unique jingle performed on a Thai folk toy called a pong pang. If you want to bring your favorite outfit back to life then you can usually find him cycling around Thonburi, from Daokanong to Prapadaeng.
How long have you been doing this job? For 15-16 years. I was trained by my brother-in-law who also does this. I still do everything as it used to be in the old days.
How have things changed? Well people definitely used to dye their clothes more. These days it’s easier to just buy new clothes.
What’s your working day like? I cycle from my home along Suksawas Road to Prachauthit or sometimes as far as Samut Prakan. I cycle about 20-30 kilometers a day. Sometimes I leave my bicycle where I end up because it’s too late to cycle back. I then take a bus back in the morning then head back the way I came. I buy my dye at Klong Toei or Hua Lamphong. The complete set is about B1,000-1,500. I use the premium grade dye because it lasts much longer.
Are there a lot of customers? Not as much as there used to be but I still make OK money. Sometimes I can earn about B500 per day but it varies.
Have you ever tried any other kind of work? I used to do odd jobs but after learning this skill, I’ve never done anything else.
What about your family? My two children are still young. I still have to do this job to pay for them to go to school.
What would you do if you couldn’t do this anymore? I don’t know, I don’t have anyone to teach these skills to.

Gold gilder

A short walk from Saphan Khwai BTS station, in an old avenue filled with amulet shops, you’ll find numerous street craftsmen patiently waiting for customers to stop by and get their not-so-precious jewelry gilded in gold or sulver. We talk to experienced gilder, Kriengsak Kueprasertkul, 58, who’s been doing this job for over half his life.
How long have you been here? More than 30 years. My family opened a gold shop in Ban Mor and Nakornchaisri (in Nakorn Pathom province) so I learned from them. I moved to Saphan Khwai after one of my friends asked me to join him. I now sit next to his shop. I have regular customers who bring their precious things like accessories or brooches. I gild them to make them look brand new again.
How has business changed over the years? I used to have many more customers. I think it’s partly because my customers are old or have died or moved elsewhere.
What’s your working day like? I catch the bus from Putthamonthon to open my stall from 10.30am-6.00pm every day. I never stop. Now we have a problem with the high price of gold, but I still use only real gold because I am honest to the customers as they are my regular clients. Also, some customers are allergic to fake gold.
What would you do if you couldn’t do this anymore? I don’t know. I’ve never done anything else. This is my family’s profession.

A brush with success

It’s a question that you’ve probably asked yourself when seeing one of these traders pushing their cart full of brooms along the road in Sukhumvit or Silom: Who buys their brushes and what’s business like these days? Wisit Poltien, 43, tells us about plying his trade in Bangkok.
How long have you been doing this job? About 3-4 years. I used to work in a jeans factory, but it was quite low-paid and it was hard to support my family. My brother suggested this, so I decided to give it a try. I thought if it doesn’t go well I still can go back to work in the factory. But this job is much better than my old one. I can take a holiday whenever I want and there’s no one to tell me off or criticize what I do.
How has business changed? People used to spend more and now it’s all about saving. Some say it’s because the economy isn’t as good. Even when their brooms are really worn out, people still use them because they don’t want to spend the money.
What’s your working day like? I cycle from my home in Soi Inthamara 29 (Suttisan) in the morning to business areas like Pratunam, Ratchada, Sukhumvit or Silom. I then spend the day going up and down the streets looking for customers, heading home in the evening.
Who are your customers? It depends. Some are housewives, some work as cleaners in offices.
How much do you earn per day or month? It depends but I average more than B10,000 per month. That’s compared to my old job where I only got B6,000-7,000.
What does your family think about your job? They are fine with it because I can earn a living and send money back home to them in Roi Et province. One of my children has already graduated from vocational school but another is just in third grade.
What would you do if you couldn’t do this anymore? Well I actually plan on building up this business by hiring others to sell the brooms for me. I know a guy who built an empire by selling brooms just like me.

Save our Streets (2)

Do screaming celeb fans annoy you? They seem to be everywhere dogging that poor famous person’s every step. But there’s more to it than a stalker sensibility. There’s an etiquette and there’s a whole new network of new friends, with at least one shared interest, if you do decide to start following your fave celeb around.

Kanittha “Am” Thepasak, 20, is one of Worawech ‘Dan D2B’ Danuwong’s most loyal followers. She’s been a devoted fan club member for seven years. It started when she was browsing the internet and came across a Dan fan club website. From there, she started to interact with other fans who share her passion for supporting their favorite artist. The website also announced Dan’s work schedules allowing fans to go meet Dan in person and to show support. New friendships also bloomed at these events. “It’s like you have a group of high school friends and a group of college friends. Here I also have a whole tight group of Dan fan club friends,” says Am. A typical fan club day for Am starts with hearing about Dan’s upcoming event either from another fan or on Twitter. Then, she decides whether she would be able to attend. “But it’s not only about making Dan feel good,” explains Am. “It’s also about meeting your friends, so it usually makes you want to go even more. It’s like you get two things out of one event.” When the fans aren’t going to events to watch Dan, they also get together to have lunch or make Dan t-shirts or signs.

You must be wondering whether the celeb gets annoyed being followed everywhere? “We stay within our limits and we know when to do certain things or not.” And those obsessively screaming fans? “They are usually newbies who have just starting following and don’t know the limits or when to stop. Older fans have to warn them what to do and not do. But everyone is treated with respect and has equal rights.”

You’ve probably come across it while channel surfing: a station solely devoted to famous panda Lin Ping, capturing her every move: which mostly involves, sitting around in her cage, eating bamboo, and sleeping for hours. You may have rarely spent more than thirty seconds on this channel, but there are actually people out there devoted to it and to Lin Ping, The Bon Marche Lin Ping Fan Club. In fact, there’s a network of fan clubs dedicated to her.  “Our group gets together twice a month to talk about Lin Ping’s progress and her caretakers,” says Supanee “Kratai” Padsanin, 23, an active member.

It all started for Supanee when she found out that Prasertsak “Tor” Buntragulpoontawee, Lin Ping’s manager, received fan mail about the panda from all over the country. “I was interested that there were other fans with the same interest and I wanted to exchange opinions with them so I wrote Khun Tor and he told me about other fans and how to get in touch with them.”

The fan club now comprises people of all ages, from 20-80, who were previously complete strangers. Members meet over lunch to gossip about the panda and the caretakers. “I feel like we’ve known each other for a long time. We’re all of the same mind set and when we talked for the first time, we felt close to each other,” says Kratai.

Not only do they meet up over lunch, fans also travel together to go to Chiang Mai to visit Lin Ping. In fact, more than 400 fans attended Lin Ping’s birthday party this year. Other than the Bon Marche group, there is also a Thonburi group, a Ban Panthip group, an Onnut group and even a Facebook group for you to choose from, based on geographical convenience.

Kratai assures us that it’s not too late to join the group. “Lin Ping’s development is constant, and her interactions with the vets are different everyday. There’s always something to new to talk about.”

Restaurants

1. Blu Kouzina
893 Bukit Timah Rd., 6875-0872
Serving up top-notch souvlakis and meze dishes, Blu Kouzina offers an authentic Greek dining experience right down to the décor and alfresco seating.

2. Brazil Churrasco
16 Sixth Ave., 6463-1923
For meat lovers, dining at this cozy little restaurant is like finding heaven on a plate. Tuck in to a dizzying variety of meats in an all-you-can eat buffet and wash it down with a couple of caipirinhas.

3. Casa Roma
#01-09 Royal Ville, 833 Bukit Timah Rd., 6464-8509
A great place to dine with the family, Casa Roma has a comprehensive range of pizzas and pastas, complemented by delicious homemade bread.

4. Fortune Seafood Steam Boat
887 Bukit Timah Rd., 6469-5957
The fact that its signboard reads “Forture” instead of “Fortune” doesn’t stop it from being packed daily.

5. Omar Shariff Authentic Indian Cuisine
#01-02 Sixth Avenue Centre, 805 Bukit Timah Rd., 6466-7318
Dine on North Indian classics at this restaurant named after the renowned Egyptian actor who starred in such films as Doctor Zhivago.

6. Pizza da Donato
8 Sixth Ave., 6219-7562
With all the casual class of an Italian roadside diner, Pizza da Donato was Singapore’s first pizza-by-the-slice shop when it opened in 2005. Choose from a wide variety of rectangular pizza slices; they’re all $7 and all superb.

7. Stammtisch
#01-04 Sixth Avenue Centre, 805 Bukit Timah Rd., 6468-1649
More than just a haunt for homesick Swiss and German expats, their pork knuckle and emmenthal and gruyere fondues are the talk of town.

8. The Tea Party
#01-07 Sixth Avenue Centre, 805 Bukit Timah Rd., 6462-3563
As you might expect from its name, top-grade tea is the specialty of this laidback café. Low tables and comfortable sofas make it the perfect chill-out spot.

more restaurants in Bukit Timah

Bars

9. Bar Bar Black Sheep
879 Bukit Timah Rd., 6468-9382
With its rustic outdoor setting, cozy interior, affordable beers and expansive multi-cuisine menu, this is exactly the kind of bar you’d want to live down the road from.

10. The Cavern
903 Bukit Timah Rd., 6468-2344
Head here to avoid a hard day’s night. Beatlemania is alive and well at the recently opened Bukit Timah branch of this pub dedicated to the Fab Four.

11. Lazy Lizard
2 Sixth Ave., 6468-6289
Another gem of a pub on Sixth Avenue, Lazy Lizard has much character and quirkiness. A great place to knock back a few pints and catch some live sports.

more bars in Bukit Timah

Shops

12. Bikehaus
785 Bukit Timah Rd., 6468-3887
Stocking a range of high-performance race and mountain bikes, Bikehaus is beloved by the city’s cycling community.

13. Durian Lingers
#01-08 Royal Ville, 833 Bukit Timah Rd., 6763-8382
Few establishments can boast a name which makes a truer statement. Durian Lingers specializes in the King of Fruits; particularly the Mountain Cat, Phoenix and D24 varieties.

Others

14. Ikeda Spa
787 Bukit Timah Rd., 6469-8080
Channeling Zen at every corner, Ikeda is inspired by Japan’s ryokans. Elegant ikebana arrangements and kakejiku (wall scrolls) welcome you before your ganbanyoku (magma stone bed) and traditional Japanese massage sessions.

Dining

1. Chat Masala Too
18 Greenwood Ave., 6762-2133
The second outlet of the East Coast institution Chat Masala brings more of the quality naans, tikkas and, of course, masalas you’ve come to expect.

2. Greenwood Fish Market
34 Greenwood Ave., 6467-4950
This intimate little bistro lives up to its name with an open display of fish and oysters. You can’t go wrong with their seafood and sashimi platters.

3. La Braceria
5 Greendale Ave., 6465-5918
Specializing in authentic Italian cuisine, their homemade sausages are perfect complements to their exquisite pasta.

4. Shin Yuu Japanese Restaurant
16 Greenwood Ave., 6763-4939
Its name means “family and friends”, and sure enough it’s a great place to gather. Try their signature special chawanmushi and aburi salmon sushi.

5. Ubin Seafood
12 Greenwood Ave., 6469-7677
The name “Ubin” (or some variation of it) is synonymous with good seafood and this Greenwood set-up is possibly the most stylish to bear it.

more restaurants in Bukit Timah

Bars

6. L’Estaminet
4 Greenwood Ave., 6465-1911
“L’Estaminet” is what the French call their local village bar, and that’s an apt name for this place. Choose from their variety of Belgian beers —and yummy food—and soak in the atmosphere.

7. The Wagon Wheel
22 Greenwood Ave., 6469-3688
An old-fashioned pub with great character, The Wagon Wheel’s oxtail stew is the definition of a hearty meal.

more bars in Bukit Timah

Shops

8. Jane’s Art & Craft
75/77 Hillcrest Rd., 6469-5920
Many homes in Bukit Timah have Jane’s to thank for their antique and antique-inspired furniture and artifacts.

9. Lana Cakeshop
36 Greenwood Ave., 6466-8940
This no-frills, old-fashioned cakeshop still wins new fans with its signature chocolate cake.

10. Organic Hut
8 Greenwood Ave., 6467-2677
Catering to those conscious of health and the environment, Organic Hut has a wide selection of nature and body-friendly products.

Dining

1. Bukit Timah Market & Food Centre
116 Upper Bukit Timah Rd.
This classic two-story market and food center is home to many hawker favorites both new and old. Chikuyo Japanese Cuisine, Chin Hock Mutton Soup, Peter’s Pan Western Food, Mien, Ann Le Xiang Rojak, BBQ Leng Kee, Tip Top Beef Brisket and Tom Kitchen are among the top picks. Every food center has those one or two stalls with a ridiculous queue and here it’s Sin Chew Satay Bee Hoon and Cuttlefish Kang Kong.

2. Chocz. Chocolate Café & Boutique
#B1-01 Bukit Timah Plaza, 1 Jln Anak Bukit, 6462-1185
Bringing premium chocolates to Singaporeans since 2001, homegrown chocolatier Chocz imports fine raw materials from Europe, Africa, South America and Asia to produce innovative gourmet pralines.

3. Island Creamery
#01-02, 11 King Albert Park, 6467-1571
The ice-cream flavors available here are anything but ordinary; teh tarik, chendol, pulut hitam and durian top the list.

4. Ristorante Da Valentino
11 Jln Bingka, 6462-0555
This trattoria tended by an Italian family is ideal for a romantic dinner. Expect classics like parma ham with melon, rucola salad, porcini pizza and squid ink pasta. The adjacent Pearla’s Pastry Boutique is well worth visiting for their traditional Italian baked goods and customized cakes.

5. Wishbone Restaurant & Café
#B2-05 Bukit Timah Plaza, 1 Jalan Anak Bukit., 6733-3777
This cozy café in Bukit Timah Plaza’s basement has been serving up quality Western cuisine for as long as anybody can remember.

Shops

6. Hockhua Wine
#02-09/10/11 Bukit Timah Plaza, 1 Jalan Anak Bukit., 6462-3735
After making a name as a supplier of traditional health products (Hockhua Tonic is just next door), Hockhua added wines to its portfolio and now boasts a cellar with over 120 wines.

7. The PianoMan’s Shop
#B2-16 Bukit Timah Plaza, 1 Jalan Anak Bukit., 6465-4465
Fancy tinkling the ivories? The PianoMan’s Shop has new and used pianos that will lend character to any home; whether or not you actually play them.

8. ToTT
#01-01A, Sime Darby Centre, 896 Dunearn Rd., 6219-7077
Recently opened in the Sime Darby Centre, ToTT (Tools of the Trade) is a kitchen wonderland. It stocks everything from pots and pans to appliances, kitchenwear, books, cutting boards, china, knives and serving trolleys. They also have a bistro and conduct cooking classes.

Others

9. Attitude Performing Arts Studio
#01-15/29 Bukit Timah Plaza, 1 Jalan Anak Bukit, 6467-9738
Specializing in dance (ballet, jazz, hip hop) for both children and adults, Attitude also conducts dance-based fitness classes like Latino Jam and Cardio Dance along with the Les Mills workouts BODYCOMBAT and BODYJAM. The adjoining Fringe Café serves boutique coffee and healthy meals.

10. Z Fencing
#02-23 Bukit Timah Plaza, 1 Jalan Anak Bukit, 6295-1432
Z Fencing is Asia’s leading fencing club with over 17 years of experience behind the blade. Discover the chivalry and romance of the art of dueling.

Dining

1. Mimo kitchen & Bar
55 Fairways Dr., 6467-7748
Enjoy a taste of the countryside with all the modern trappings at this intimate restaurant.

2. Picotin Bistro & Bar
100 Turf Club Rd., 6877-1191 Co-owned by celebrity chef Emmanuel Stroobant, Picotin serves up excellent European fare and they even do home deliveries.

3. Rider’s Cafe
51 Fairways Dr., 6466-9819

Hearty breakfasts like Eggs Benedict are the specialty here. Stop in for a bite before a ride at the adjacent Bukit Timah Saddle Club.

4. Unique Seafood Market
#03-01/02/03 Turf City, 200 Turf Club Rd., 6883-2112
The former grandstand building of the race course is now famous for the two Unique Seafood Market restaurants (Ah Yat Seafood Restaurant and Owen Seafood) on its third-floor terraces. With over 100 types of seafood in 60 tanks, a culinary adventure awaits.

Bars

5. La Maison
55 Fairways Dr., 6467-7748
An old race course is the last place you’d expect to find a swanky nightspot. This self-described “concept club” created with the help of French hipster Andre Saraiva a.k.a Andre (graffiti artist and man behind the Le Baron chain of clubs), fills its floors on Fridays and Saturdays.

Shops

6. The French Bookstore
#01-36 Turf City Shopping mall, 200 Turf Club Rd., 6423-1279
Exclusively stocking titles in the language of love, this is a great place to immerse yourself in a different culture.

7. Turf City Superstore
Turf City, 200 Turf Club Rd.
Brimming with a seemingly random collection of cheap clothes, footwear, toys and household products, shopping at the Turf City Superstore is a modern-day treasure hunt.

Others

8. Asoka Muay Thai Gym
#01-02B Horsecity, 100 Turf Club Rd., 6466-2257
With the popularity of martial arts on the rise in Singapore, Asoka offers something a little different; Muay Thai classes in the tranquil surrounds of a former horse stable.

9. Bukit Timah Saddle Club
51 Fairways Dr., 6466-2264
With a focus on show jumping and dressage, this equestrian center has produced riders that have competed for Singapore in major regional competitions. Classes and leisure riding are also available for riders of all experience levels.

10. Horsecity
100 Turf Club Rd., 6463-6012
Horsecity is Singapore’s largest riding center and caters to every imaginable equine need. Riding lessons are available for all ages, saddles and other gear can be purchased at the Horseshop, and you can even take steps towards owning your own horse.

11. Om Shiva Yoga
#01-02B Horsecity, 100 Turf Club Rd., 6466-2257
Choose from their long list of yoga variants and salute the sun while you breathe in the fresh air of Bukit Timah.

12. Rider’s Lodge
100 Turf Club Rd., 6465-4828
Rider’s Lodge is a one-of-a-kind hotel with rodeo-inspired colonial style rooms. It’s the only hotel in Singapore that caters specifically to riders.

13. Sylvia’s Secrets
#01-02C Horsecity, 100 Turf Club Rd., 6465-5338
A comprehensive beauty and wellness oasis for waxing, manicures and pedicures, spray tans, massages, aromatherapy sessions and hot stone treatments.

Dining

1. Cheong Chin Nam Road
Along this strip are some of Singapore’s all-time favorite late-night eateries like Al Ameen, Sinma Claypot Live Frog, Al Azhar, Joo Seng Teochew Porridge and Johnson Lock Roasted Duck and Chicken.

2. Don Quijote Spanish Restaurant
#01-09 Kilat Court, 17 Lorong Kilat, 6465-1811
It might take a few visits to sample everything on Don Quijote’s tapas menu but vieras al horno (baked scallops with bacon bits) and berenjenas al horno (baked eggplant) are top picks.

3. Firestation hillside gastrobar
274 Upper Bukit Timah Rd., 6465-0600
This chic bar and restaurant brings new life to the colorful old Bukit Timah firestation, serving hearty dishes like steaks and pastas.

4. Galbiati Gourmet Deli
The Rail Mall, 400 Upper Bukit Timah Rd., 6462-0926
Everything at this cozy all-Italian deli is homemade by chef and owner Roberto Galbiati. Dine-in or takeaway, and check out their extensive range of Italian products.

5. Myke’s Oven
88 Jalan Jurong Kecil, 6763-7790
Housed in an old shophouse in the former Bukit Timah Village, Myke’s Oven is famous for their freshly baked croissants, Danish pastries and Japanese biscuits.

6. Sweet Salty Spicy Food Market & Thai Canteen
The Rail Mall, 392/394 Upper Bukit Timah Rd., 6877-2544
To go with its mouthful of a name, this revered deli-food market offers many mouthfuls of contemporary Thai cuisine.

7. Udders Ice Cream
#01-08 Kilat Court, 17 Lorong Kilat, 6466-1055
This cheeky homegrown brand makes most of their ice cream by hand, and only start on a new batch when they’re about to run out of stock. Flavors include Bailey’s & Bourbon™, Tira-miss-u™ and Choya Lime Umeshu Sorbet.

8. Vis-à-Vis
12 Chun Tin Rd., 6468-7433
This long-standing French/Thai restaurant has a loyal following and its seasonal menu changes every three months. Famed dishes include the Meltique sirloin, French onion soup and dark chocolate soufflé.

more restaurants in Bukit Timah

Bars

9. BLooiE’s Roadhouse
The Rail Mall, 426/428 Upper Bukit Timah Rd., 6766-1588
Providing a slice of American roadhouse culture, this bar and grill is engineered for entertainment and dining inside, and relaxation outside. Their dress code includes “a smile.”

10. Bojangles
#01-16 Bukit Timah Shopping Centre, 170 Upper Bukit Timah Rd., 6463-3459
Chill out at this shopping centre pub with a difference and tuck into their famous thin-crust pizza with a side of chicken drumlets. Play pool for free daily from 4-8pm.

11. Maple Pub
100 Jalan Jurong Kecil, 6463-6393
A corner pub from a bygone era, Maple offers a decent range of beers at affordable prices. Its outdoor garden seating makes it a stand out.

12. Ten Years After
#B1-19/20 Bukit Timah Shopping Centre, 170 Upper Bukit Timah Rd., 6462-4695
Rock and roll with the three-piece house band at this basement pub and revisit classic tunes between Monday and Saturday.

more bars in Bukit Timah

Shops

13. Cake Avenue
#01-01 Kilat Centre, 33 Lorong Kilat, 6877-9008
The gourmet cake designers at Cake Avenue will whip up a masterpiece for any special occasion.

14. Eden Galerie
#01-04 Sun Court, 21 Lorong Kilat, 6463-1885
Adding an instant air of class to any home, Eden Galerie’s diverse collection of Chinese and Tibetan furniture is exquisitely crafted from Chinese elm.

15. Huber’s Butchery
Goh & Goh Building, 122 Upper Bukit Timah Rd.
Huber’s stocks only top quality meats, sausages and hams together with an exclusive range of condiments, oils, wines and beers.

16. HWB Concept Marketing
#01-09 Beauty World Plaza, 140 Upper Bukit Timah Rd., 6467-1101
HWB stands for “Hidden Wall Bed,” those beds that fold away into walls like you see in movies. These guys can design one to suit your living space if your CD collection has gotten a little out of hand.

17. Ng Kim Lee ConfectionEry
4 Chun Tin Rd., 6466-3515
Looking every bit its age, Ng Kim Lee nevertheless receives rave reviews for its egg tarts and red bean buns, and for its more modern cheesecakes.

18. Shopintimates
#04-38/39/40 Bukit Timah Shopping Centre, 170 Upper Bukit Timah Rd., 6469-8840, www.shopintimates.com.sg
Shopintimates is an adult store that stocks everything from “fleshlights” to stamina spray and many things in-between that are unsuitable for print. Visit their website if you’d like to make a more discreet purchase.

Others

19. koreatown
Lorong Kilat
With Lotte Korean Mart, Kim’s Family Food Korean Restaurant, Woori-Nara and J.H. Kim Taekwondo Institute all in a line it’s not too much of a strech to think of this place as South Korea in miniature. Lorong Kilat has a strong Buddhist presence as well, with both the Mahabodhi Monastry and the Lao Shi Nian Fo Misssion shop.

20. Memories at Old Ford Factory
351 Upper Bukit Timah Rd.
Surrounded by a condominium development today with landscaped gardens throughout, it’s hard to imagine that this was the site of Singapore’s darkest hour. The Old Ford Factory is now a tranquil spot, with the building itself an exhibition gallery that costs just $3 to enter.

21. Muse b’art
274 Upper Bukit Timah Rd., 6465-8485
This make-up, body-art and “special effects” studio also holds training sessions and workshops with an international cast of artists.