Focusing on omakase and kaiseki-style meals, Chef Derrick Lau presents a Japanese fine dining concept that is a breath of fresh air for the Asian dining scene in the area. The omakase lunch and dinner sets start at $68 and $108 respectively. For simpler Japanese fare, there's a range of classics on the menu, from sashimi to yakimono.
This hip Mediterranean joint serves up other small plates like char grilled asparagus with garlic miso dressing ($14). Expect new funky-looking murals—graffiti-style—done up by the chef Manel Valero Ruiz and local artist SKL0 (a.k.a. Samantha Lo) in the cozy 40-seater.
Opened by Lino Sauro of fine dining eatery Gattopardo, this casual (and cheaper) spot features an open-concept kitchen and a U-shaped bar. The menu focuses on ‘stuzzichini’—traditional Italian street food—with choice selections such as beef lasagna ($13), and toasted panini with parma ham, mozzarella, rucola and tomato ($13) or order the buffalo mozzarella platter ($23) to share.
Muffins are aplenty at this unassuming café that schedules a weekly roster of sweet and savory muffins, including spiced carrot (co-owner Christopher Leow’s personal favorite), Earl Grey and fig (our pick) and even Green Eggs and Ham—all at $2.80. Those looking for more filling bites can tuck into their homemade pies (from $7.50) and mini sliders ($4). The original, snug space has since expanded to occupy three floors, welcoming regular open-mic nights.
It's crammed during lunch hour, but the Pho Tai (sliced beef noodle soup, $8.50) or Bun Cha Gio (deep fried spring rolls with vermicelli, $9) make it all worth it. Finish your meal with a Vietnamese ice coffee ($2.50) which comes with its own drip filter.
If you’re looking for a place to sit and while the afternoon away, chill out in this cosy café which serves a variety of Japanese and Western fare. Try their Vanilla Dirt Cake ($8.90) which comes in a flower pot or pop by after work for their happy hours from 4-8pm for 1-for-1 draft beers and house pours.
The three-storey concept store combines its namesake label with a café to give you a single place to shop, eat and drink. Shop for their newest collection at the second level, then downstairs for their homemade pies such as Duck and Apple Cranberry ($8.50) while you sip a decaf Mescolato (Persian for ice-blended) Berry Breakfast ($7.90) made with blueberries, strawberries, low-fat milk and a touch of peanut butter.
Get fitted from head to toe in a sharp set that not only shows off your form, but also speaks dapper from the cut, fabric to colour, by Raoul menswear alum and co-founder of bespoke menswear label Clothesmith Chong Han San. There are over 2,000 options in the fabric library to choose from for your bespoke suit—whether you like it conventional or quirky—and custom-made shoes by Hong Kong brand Shoe Artistry.
This boutique heritage hotel pays homage to Singapore's past and is also the island's first hotel to incorporate a museum; guests enter the hotel through the former temple and headquarters of the 1800's Hakka and Cantonese communities, Fuk Tak Chi. Its distinctive interior incorporates contemporary design with heritage features into its 37 rooms for a unique hotel experience.
Tired of those run-of-the-mill fitness centers? Try pedalling your way through international circuits in this boutique indoor road-cycling gym. The compact space is fitted with Adjustabikes that are programmed to track the cyclist’s progress and adjust the settings accordingly. Membership choices range from $50 for a single session to the Yellow Jersey option at $300 a month.
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The cool climes and crisp mountain air of Java’s tranquil north-eastern highlands make it a refreshing weekend break from city life. And with the sweeping volcanic landscape of Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park, and the surrounding mountainside of fertile farmland, rice fields and tropical rainforest, there’s even more reason to go. There’s culture on offer too, as you gain an insight into the region’s Tengger people, a Javanese Hindu group that has preserved its traditional culture and way of life. Most people, though, visit this region to see the orange glow of sunrise over Mount Bromo.
First Light
At 3:30 in the morning, bleary eyed travellers, wrapped-up in their warmest clothes, climb into the back of old jeeps, before heading higher up into the mountains across bumpy terrain, holding onto their seats as they climb steadily higher.
After ascending most of the way, the jeeps wind their way across a desert-like landscape, following a trail of lights from the other jeeps and mopeds, before pulling up by a steep grassy slope that leads to the popular vantage point on 2,770 meter Mount Penanjakan—a popular spot for sunrise over the 2,329 meter active volcano Mount Bromo.
Without the sun to warm the land, it’s cold on the mountain, but people are too busy readying their cameras to really care. When first light begins to show over the vast landscape of volcanic desert-plain, Mount Bromo and Mount Semeruglow in the soft light, while the long grass on the mountain-side takes on the sun’s hues. A while later, once things have warmed up, each group departs by jeep for what is the next stop on most people’s itinerary.
Stealing Beauty
The desert plain that you stand over from Mount Penanjakan is actually called the Tengger Sand Sea, created by volcanic activity and protected since 1919. This sea of sand is part of The Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park that covers 5,250 hectares and consists of Java’s highest peak Mount Semeru (3,676 meter), idyllic lakes and rivers, and the Tengger Caldera—a vast volcanic landscape formed after an eruption, causing the formation of four volcanoes, including Mount Bromo. All of this National Park is surrounded by a steep crater wall.
You can choose to cross the Tengger Sand Sea on foot or by horse. On horseback, you can ride as far as the foot of Mount Bromo, before dismounting to walk up the sand-filled steps that lead steeply up to Bromo’s smoking crater. From the top, you’ll be rewarded with a panoramic (and pretty breathtaking) view of the Caldera, Tengger Sand Sea and perfect cone of Mount Batok.
Around the volcano locals sell offerings made from flowers to throw into the smoking crater for good luck and prosperity. This has special significance to the Tengger people during the annual YadnyaKasada ceremony, taking place on the 14th day of the Kasada month in the Hindu calendar, when offerings are thrown into Bromo’s crater for a good harvest and health in the coming year.
After riding back across the sandy plain and returning by jeep to your hotel, it’s just about time for breakfast. Then, the remainder of the day can be spent exploring the surrounding landscape by hiring a 4WD jeep, hiking or cycling, with or without a guide. If you plan ahead, you can take part in longer tours to the rainforest, across the Caldera, or on longer volcanic trips.
Essentials
Getting There
Tigerair has Singapore–Surabaya flights leaving on Friday and returning on Sunday from around $80. Alternatively you could fly with Silkair for around $276. From Surabaya, the Bromo-Tengger-Semeru region is a three-hour drive but transfers can easily be arranged through your hotel. Return transfers between Surabaya airport and Java Banana Lodge cost IDR2000,000 ($218).
When to Go
Tourists travel to Bromo all-year-round, but the high season, with the least rain, is from June to September.
What to Take
Take good walking shoes and warm clothes, including a jacket, scarf and gloves, as it gets really cold in the highlands, especially in the early hours of the morning. You’ll need a scarf or facemask to protect your face as you cross the Tengger Sand Sea, as well as sunglasses to protect your eyes.
Arranging Tours
Excursions and guides can be arranged with the hotel at the time of booking or on arrival, as well as the hire of 4WD jeeps, while bicycles are free for guests to use at Java Banana Lodge. The sunrise tour costs IDR350,000 ($38), with horseback riding as an optional extra at around IDR100,000 ($11). Alternatively excursions can be arranged through Mount Bromo Tour (www.mount-bromo-tour.com).
Entry Requirements
Singaporeans and all other ASEAN citizens can visit Indonesia without a visa for up to 30 days, but most other nationalities need to pay US$25 ($31) for a visa on arrival.
Where to stay
Java Banana Lodge
Java Banana Lodge has become known as the best, and possibly only luxurious, place to stay in the Bromo region. Situated in a serene garden scattered with contemporary sculptures, just a short walk from the nearby village, and surrounded by farmland and mountainous landscape, the property consists of a lodge, with villas as well as suites, an art gallery that showcases spectacular Javanese photography, and a café that serves Java coffee, as well as their banana specialties such as banana crepes and grilled banana with lemon.
The restaurant, which is decorated with photography of Javanese landscape and people, serves wholesome Western and Indonesian dishes, while breakfast can be eaten on the scenic roof-top terrace. Each year Java Banana hosts the Jazz Gunung Festival at their outdoor theater with appearances from international and local musicians. The festival is held in June but check online for next year’s updates (www.jazzgunung.com).
Rates start at IDR1,210,000 ($129) per night and bookings can be made online (www.java-banana.com).
Yoschi’s Hotel
An alternative, and economical, place to stay is Yoschi’s Hotel (www.yoschihotel.com), a popular German-owned guesthouse outside the village of Ngadisari, where room rates start at IDR103,500 ($11).
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Connected to the better-known island of Taipa by the glitzy Cotai strip (where the fights and the gambling all take place) is Coloane, a one-time pirate outpost that still sees far fewer visitors than the rest of Macau. So far, give or take the odd go-kart track, this charming island (which is actually bigger than Taipa) has resisted the aggressive development happening elsewhere in the territory. You don’t really need more than a day to see the sights, but it’s well worth a detour from the main tourist track. Here are five ways to make the most of your time there.
Eat local
In Coloane, food is the order of the day—you’ll find great Macanese dishes (a fusion of Chinese and Portuguese cuisine), like the African chicken and lacassa soup. For some premium Macanese grub, Restaurante Fernando (9 Praia de Hac Sa, Coloane, +853 2888-2531, www.fernando-restaurant.com) stands out with its fine European style décor and fantastic location (at Hac Sa Beach). Alternatively, check out the numerous al fresco dining spots at Coloane Village for something a little cheaper. The highlight? Undoubtedly Lord Stow’s Bakery (1 Rua Da Tassara, Coloane Town Square, +853 2888-2534, www.lordstow.com), the original creator of the internationally famous pastry, Portuguese egg tarts.
Get on your feet
Coloane village is the kind of quiet colonial leftover that rewards patient exploration on foot, with cobbled streets leading you to historic treasures such as the Chapel of St. Francis Xavier, built in 1928, and Tam Kung Temple. After exploring the alleys, head towards the drive that overlooks the small sea passage separating Macau and China for a stunning view. And don’t forget to pay a visit to Coloane Pier, where old huts stand beside shops selling dried seafood—reminiscent of the town’s past as an active fishing village.
Live life to the fore
You may have played golf on plenty of other courses around the world but, we suspect, none quite like this one. The acclaimed Ocean Driving Range at the Macau Golf and Country Club (Estrada de Hac Sa, IIha de Coloane, +853 2887-1188, www.mgccmacau.com) lets you take a swing into the South China Sea, with caddies standing by on boats ready to fish out the balls. You’d better be on top of your game here—you’ll be asked to leave if you don’t meet the time limit or achieve a score of nine shots or less on the first hole.
Hit the beaches
Both the southern and eastern shores of Coloane boast better beaches than you’ll find anywhere else in Macau. Cheoc-Van in the south is more popular due to its golden sand, water activities (if you fancy jet-skiing or sailing) and safer swimming facilities, but the easterly, black sand Hac Sa is equally well-suited to a lazy afternoon before gearing up for a big night back in Macau proper.
Bed down
It’s a little run-down these days, but the 28 room Pousada de Coloane (“pousada” is Portuguese for inn or guesthouse) is wonderfully evocative of bygone glories. Think blue and white tiled walls, antique wooden furnishings, home-style Portuguese food and great views of Cheoc-Van beach from the breakfast terrace. Rooms start from around $320. Praia de Cheoc-Van, +853 2888-2144, www.hotelpcoloane.com.mo.
Where to stay
While it’s definitely worth spending a night at Pousada deColane, it’s not a great base for further exploration. Holiday Inn Sands Cotai Central (Senhora De Esperanzca S/N Taipa, Macau, www.ihg.com), right on the Cotai strip, with easy access to both peninsular Macau and Coloane, is as convenient as they come. Rooms start from $286.
Getting there
Direct flights with Tigerair (www.tigerair.com) start from around $136 and takes about four hours.
Exchange Rate
10 MOP = $1.60
Visa
Singaporeans traveling in and out of Chinese territories do not require a visa for up to 30 days.
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Although we’re already starting to see cool bars like The Spiffy Dapper and Ah Sam Cold Drink Stall springing up around Boat Quay—and places like The Mad Men Attic Bar and Bitters & Love upping nearby North Canal Road’s hip quotient—this part of the river still hasn’t quite shaken off its reputation for touristy seafood restaurants, trashy bars and dodgy KTVs.
All that looks set to change on November 1, which is when a big chunk of Circular Road—from Lorong Telok to Molly Malone’s on North Canal Road—will be closed off to traffic from 6pm to 1am every Friday and Saturday for a three-month trial period. If you checked out Boat Quay’s St. Patrick’s Day festival earlier this year, you’ll know this is the same stretch that was closed off for the parade and street party. All that festive bar-hopping was a success, resulting in some establishments enjoying up to two-thirds more business than usual.
And it’s this success that Singapore River One (SRO) executive director Tyrone Tabing hopes to see more of. On their plans to close off the road, he explains, “The street has the right scale and location. It complements the front side of Boat Quay, making the area feel more like a destination; additionally, it’s right next to the CBD, and it’s not a major arterial street. It makes perfect sense.”
Changes Afoot
Judging by what we heard at a recent meeting for SRO stakeholders about the plans, most venues in the area are, as you might expect, in favor. “It’s a great project to revitalize Circular Road into a destination for locals and tourists,” says nightspot manager Kuan Siang. Some, though, are skeptical about whether people’s behavior will change.
“There may be some initial effect on Boat Quay following the closure—patrons seeking new experiences may try out Circular Road, but barring any extraordinary promotional activity there, we believe that most people will still gravitate closer to the river,” says Sanjay Sabnani, marketing and sales director of Harry’s.
Others have more specific concerns. “This will affect businesses which have clientele who drive,” says chef Patrick Tan, who owns Tamashii Robataya. “My clients normally come to my restaurant to entertain—and if they can’t drive, they won’t think of coming to my place.” And Geffrey Teo, manager of Cuisine Master Hotpot, points out that some F&B venues might be hit by a road block when it comes to deliveries.
Tabing assures us that the team is well aware of these concerns and will remain flexible. But, he adds, “the reality is that in other cities [where similar efforts have taken place] many former detractors actually end up becoming the strongest proponents.”
Step by Step
Still others think that all this road closure business is only part of the puzzle. “It doesn’t really matter until the types of establishments here change. Hopefully closing the road will lead to new outlets,” says The Spiffy Dapper barkeep Abhishek Cherian George, while Kuan Siang gets straight to the point: “The sleaze issue must first be solved.”
SRO agree. Pedestrianization is but one of several steps in a grander scheme to reposition Circular Road, and the organization are already in talks with the team behind slick CBD watering holes The Vault and Kyō for a large scale retenancy program that will see many of the unsavory bars replaced by classier operators by March next year. Ultimately, they’re looking at turning this into an attractive after-work hangout that entices a more sophisticated crowd, including more Singaporeans in the mix.
No Cars Go
It’s an initiative that’s already met with considerable success elsewhere in town. The scheme is endorsed by the Urban Redevelopment Authority (URA), who were behind similar pedestrianization programs on Club Street and Haji Lane earlier this year. Over at Club Street (closed on Fri-Sat 7pm-1am until Oct 26), the dining and nightlife establishments we polled report a solid increase in business, with patrons visibly enjoying the street party vibe, alfresco options and improved safety. At Haji Lane, retailers and F&B spots liked it so much they’ve taken over managing the road closure (Fri 6pm-midnight; Sat-Sun noon-midnight) after the URA’s trial ended. “Making our city pedestrian-friendly with public spaces for activities, recreation, and respite is a key part of our plans to make Singapore liveable,” says a URA spokesperson. “We are happy that our experimentation with the road closures has encouraged more local communities to step forward.”
Whether or not Circular Road enjoys that kind of commercial success, it’s important for a jam-packed city like Singapore to be creative about how we make use of space—and here at I-S we’re right behind anything that gives pedestrians priority over private vehicles. “Should streets really just be for cars?” asks Tabing. “We’re trying to rethink how they can benefit people in a different way.”
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Key: 
Restaurant 
Cafe 
Bar 
Spa 
Fitness
This small grey space, elevated by vibrant wooden seating serves coffee starting from B65, while the menu features suitably unusual sounding dishes like the Woody Allen’s Scoop (poached egg, ham, French toast and fruits, B150) and kai kra tha (crispy chicken) with garlic bread and couscous salad served with coffee (B150). They also do more straightforward dishes like pasta (B100-B170) and crepes Suzette (B170).
Sukhumvit Soi 18, 02-261-1778. Open daily 7am-10pm
With its lavish interior of timber, brick and leather, El Gaucho Argentinian Steakhouse certainly lives up to its macho name (a gaucho is a South American cowboy). The steakhouse brings Argentina’s great love of meat to Bangkok, offering high quality cuts simply prepared. For a taste of authentic asado (Argentinian barbeque), start with the spicy homemade salchicha (sausage, B270), before tucking into some beef (starting from B990/250g) and mixed skewers (B1,990) with traditional chimichurri sauce (B90) and a glass of Malbec wine (B250-530). Warning: the place is good but not cheap.
8, 8/1-7 Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-255-2864. Open daily 7am-midnight. www.elgaucho.asia/thailand
This bar-cum-restaurant serves international fusion like chitpole beef tartar with quail egg, parmesan croutons, kimchi puree, cornichons, shallot and red onion (B240), duck croustillant rolled in brick pastry served with plum chutney, pickle ginger and cornichons (B240) and eggplant parmigiana with basil oil, mesclun, leek vinaigrette and fresh summer truffles (B350). Join them during Tapas Time (5:45pm-11pm) for three tapas options and a glass of wine for B300 plus other combo deals.
Ground/F, Ocean Tower II, Asoke Road Soi 3, 02-665-2772. Open daily 9am-11pm. www.maverickbkk.com
This massive gym offers a wide range of fat-burning boot camp exercises, altitude training programs, youth gym training and the intense strength and conditioning training known as Cross Fit, which combines weight training, gymnastics and sprints to help you achieve faster results. Membership fees start from B3,103 for one month of unlimited gym use and B6,313 for one month of group training covering all classes.
348/2 Sukhumvit Rd., BTS Asoke Exit 4. 02-229-4114. Open Mon-Fri 6am-9pm, Sat-Sun 8am-6pm
This newly opened pub and restaurant offers the ambience of a contemporary sports bar. Inside, the sleek wood floors and flowing white walls are offset by the burgundy booths, while outside is more informal, providing a large covered terrace where you can relax and enjoy no less than nine draught beers including Speckled Hen, Paulaner and Sapporo. There’s also an extensive pub grub menu covering such classics as grilled pork sausage onion sandwich (B220) and chicken massaman curry (B180). The real emphasis is on sport, either playing it in the games room with its pool table and dart board or watching via the huge 60 inch TV.
Sukhumvit Soi 20, 02-259-5960. Open daily 9-2am
This Aussie eatery located close to Chokchai Steakhouse, serves up Australian favorites in a casual diner setting. Chef Roland Graham’s recommendations include the lamb sausage rolls and homemade beef or veggie pies, or you can also opt for a lamb shoulder burger (prices range from B95-B480).
Sukhumvit 21 Soi 2, 080-052-7336. Open daily noon-9pm
This new Indian restaurant sits in a striking cantilevered structure on the 29/F of the new Holiday Inn. A North Indian menu is served up by Chef Ramneek Singh Lamba in the dining room, while you can also enjoy cigars with single-malt whiskeys in the outdoor lounge or sip cocktails to go with the view and electro at the DJ bar. The classic Indian dishes include murgh chandi kebab (marinated chicken with yogurt, cardamom and mace, B380) and crispy okra with cashew and mango powder (B320). As for the cocktails, they make use of ingredients like beetroot, cinnamon and cumin powder. Signature drinks include the vodka khatta pudina (vodka, guava juice and cumin powder, B295) and sugar-hurri-cane (sugarcane juice, vodka, tequila and mint, B295).
29/F, Holiday Inn Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-683-4704. Open daily 6pm-1am
On the ground floor of the Holiday Inn on Sukhumvit Soi 22, designer Ashley Sutton is busy creating his latest venue, Bangkok Betty, due to open this October. The man behind the Dickensian factory-themed Iron Fairy and the Orientalist boudoir Maggie Choo’s is this time inspired by a military theme, and plans on a full-on diner, rather than just a bar. We heard there’ll be some classic touches like a three-piece band but that the ambience will eschew a retro vibe in favor of a factory line-experience, with the diners doing the work, but what exactly they’ll be building remains a secret for now.
G/F, Holiday Inn, Sukhumvit Soi 22
While Sukhumvit 22 may be starting to rival Soi 11 as a nightlife hot spot, Overground is already proving a real draw for music lovers with its seemingly endless stream of alternative gigs. The cozy outdoor area makes you feel as if you’re sitting in a treehouse down a quiet sub-soi. But follow the music inside through the big train-tunnel-like arch and you’ll quickly realize Overground is all about giving a stage to the underground sounds of local DJs and live acts. Resident acts include Wasabi Bytes, Panic Station and Kamp Krusty, while gigs span from goth and punk to hip-hop and indie-rock. Drinks include signature cocktails named after world-famous train lines, like the Trans-Siberian Express (vodka, Bols Blue curaçao, pineapple, lemon and syrup, B200) and there’s standard beers in Singha, Chang, Beerlao and Asahi (B100), which go down really well with the fusion bar snacks like larb moo nachos (B200).
6 Sukhumvit Soi 22 (Soi Behind No Idea), 081-701-7664. Open daily 6pm-1am
Run by a member of the local film industry, Paul Spurrier, who decided that he wanted to create a club where he could share his passion with fellow filmmakers, students and film buffs, this informal club is named after a pioneer of the movie industry. The lofty three-story shophouse has the feel of a gentlemen’s club, thanks to the tall bookshelf and writing desk that greet you, albeit one with a passion for movies as the classic posters that line the walls attest. There are a number of LCD screens by the bar showing that night’s film. Head up the metal spiral staircase to the third floor, home to the impressive nine-seat cinema which shows an intriguing selection of movies based around monthly themes. Drinks are nothing too complicated with the usual range of local and imported beers, from B90, but there’s a good list of cocktails (from B90 for a margarita), with each one referenced back to its appearance in a particular movie. Films are shown every night (except Monday and Tuesday) at 8pm and booking is advised, visit the website (www.fgc.in.th) for the full schedule.
259/6 Sukhumvit Soi 22, 087-000-0795. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight
Despite the preponderance of big screens showing sport and the jokey sign out front referencing errant expat husbands, No Idea clearly aims to be more than a run-of-the-mill Western-style boozer. The place lifts itself above its surroundings through a stylish décor that has an almost hacienda feel, thanks to lots of weighty studded doors, lofty mezzanines, a grand staircase and an impressive al fresco balcony on the second floor. There’s a decent selection of wines from Australia, New Zealand and Argentina to choose from along with the usual imported pints like Kilkenny (B220) and Warsteiner (B200). Billed as a gastro bar, the food also looks to extend beyond the standard pub grub, with a fair amount of success, through international dishes like the Wagyu beef burger (B340), the Guinness-braised beef cheeks (B590) and double-cooked pork belly (B390).
8/3-4 Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-663-6686. Open daily 10-2am
The recently opened Whisgars is a cigar and whiskey lounge tucked away at the back of long-standing Italian restaurant Giusto. It features a soaring ceiling, a mezzanine, a walk-in humidor plus a soundtrack of soft jazzy classics and Latin-inspired rhythms. Turning its back on Cuba, the bar’s cigar choices focus on four Nicaraguan and Dominican brands instead: Perdomo (from Nicaragua), El Primer Mundo, EP Carrillo and Pinar Del Rio (from the Dominican Republic), priced at B300-1,290 each. The long list of whiskeys comes from the Lowlands, Highlands, Islands and Islay Region of Scotland (B250-3,000), while you can order full meals or light bites from Giusto.
16 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-661-3220. Open daily 2pm-2am
This 100-year-old house has the appearance of some kind of faux-museum: painted in the color of mohom (the traditional blue of Northern farmer’s shirts) and decorated in the style of the King Rama V-era, it’s fitted out with antiques and old photos. But once you reach the main dining area, the space is bright and contemporary. Much of the hype surrounding the restaurant, though, comes from its menu, which promises authentic Thai flavors derived from century-old recipes from the royal Thai court. The khao soi (noodles in Northern-style curry), served as part of the appetizers set (B250), is excellent thanks to its thick and flavorful curry. Another pleasant surprise, the platoo sordsai with sang-wa (deep-fried mackerel stuffed with minced pork in a mango salad, B380) is very refreshing, with the sweet-and-sour combination of chopped mango and lime working very well with the salty mackerel.
32-32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-0664. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm
This venue on The Continent Bangkok’s 38/F goes for a gentlemen’s club vibe through its dark-toned vintage decor and leather sofas. For an atmosphere more suited to partying, climb the spiral stairs to the 39/F and you’ll find the DJ and a great view through the huge window on one side. Drinks included the Flip Punch (egg, sugar, rum and brandy, B300) and Tom and Jerry (egg, dark rum, brandy, syrup, cinnamon, cloves, spice, milk and nutmeg, B300). The music ranges from soul and funk to deep house, spun by local names like Queen P, Knot, Marcus and Mike Allin.
38, 39/F, The Continent Hotel Bangkok, 413 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-686-7000. BTS Asoke. Open daily 6-1am
Introducing yet another new hip café in town, Wonderwall is sat a short walk from BTS Phrom Pong. The place’s NYC warehouse vibe—black window frames, brick walls—comes courtesy of Be Grey, whose previous works include Karmakamet, In the Mood for Love and Casa Lapin. Sip on an espresso or drip coffee (B60-B150) while noshing on sweet treats like brownies and ice cream (from B180).
Avora 31 Residence, 28 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 086-528-2824. Open Mon-Sat 7:30am-7pm, Sun 10am-7pm
With its warm brick and redwood interior, organic grocers-slash-café-slash-restaurant Simple’s raison d’etre is to source the best produce from local farmers. The result is a store selling everything from brown rice to pure coconut oil and freshly-baked pain au chocolat (B75). Everyday brunch options include the full English breakfast (B280) or the frittata and slow-roasted tomato (B180) washed down with blended juices. Ask for the daily specials.
235/5 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-662-2510. Open Tue-Sun 7am-8pm
This is currently our favorite Italian restaurant in Bangkok. Warm and cozy like a true trattoria should be, the décor blends a wood-paneled ceiling, rustic ceramic tiles behind the deli-style counter and turn-of-the-century bistro chairs. And while Chef Paolo has years of experience at five-star hotels, his style here is casual and sharing-friendly. The homemade pasta (starting from B350) is incredibly al dente, and the sauces to die for, while the beautiful rotisserie roasts pork and chicken to a perfect crisp. The resulting porchetta (B400 for small, B600 for main portion), stuffed with pork liver and herbs, is Appia’s signature dish, but do also try the deliciously smooth veal tartare (B475). You can also expect a carefully curated wine selection.
20/4 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-261-2056. Open daily 6:30pm-12am
Counting down the days to its opening on Sukhumvit Soi 31 at the end of this month, this lifestyle shop and café boasts a modern-meets-rustic interior. The place will sell decorative items like camouflage pattern wallpaper, fabric for furniture and cushions and animal head print tableware, while it will also be home to a café with refreshments like coffee and tea.
The Green Connect, Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-662-8048.
Want to try something a little different from a boring old circuit. Maybe olympic bars and kettle bells? Fitness studio The Lab just expanded and added a new space on the second floor of RSU Tower, and now has TRX suspension training, ceiling ropes, gymnastic rings, and all the usual weight training. Group classes like strength, weight loss and combat training are also available. Memberships start from B3,700 for a one-month, eight-time use.
2&3/F, RSU Tower, Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-662-1618. Open daily 7am-9pm
This little café has just moved up the street but remains an homage to fixie bicycles and desserts. Tuck into young coconut cake (B110) or tiramisu (B110), or even make it a full meal thanks to their short selection of savory dishes like khao mah kai dao (shredded pork with garlic and rice served with fried egg, B100) and spare ribs (B150).
235/21 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-662-2866. Open daily 11am-10pm
From the outside, this narrow two-story shophouse looks like just any other sushi bar in a city of countless raw fish eateries. But step inside and you’ll discover Isao offers something different. There is a relaxed homey feel: simple booths run along the bamboo-clad wall while the rest of the space is dominated by the sushi bar and counter. You also get a warm welcome from the attentive and well informed staff. The food here focuses on sushi with a distinctly US twist—one of the chefs worked in Chicago’s Green Tea sushi bar. For appetizers, don’t miss the Volcano (B350), a spicy scallop served in its shell and which looks like a glowering mound of molten lava. Another favorite is the Rosy Salmon (B320), melt-in-your-mouth salmon and shavings of lemon formed into a delicate rose.
5 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-258-0645. MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 11am-2:30pm and 5:30-10pm
This recently relocated molecular restaurant is taking real risks with its food and décor. The three-story building’s facade is a tangle of concrete beams, steel cables and ferns, achieving an effect that manages to be both beautiful and slightly post-apocalyptic. The interior is divided into two zones; the bar, and the open kitchen–dining area. The chef’s table menu (B2,800 for 5 courses) changes regularly with dishes such as egg, bacon and wild mushroom in potato foam, and Yarra Valley lamb, beautifully presented with two pieces of lamb rack in red wine jus, seared with eggplant paste and tomato. Drinks include an impressive list of wines picked from small vineyards from across the globe as well as imported beers like Hobgoblin (B330) from Wychwood Brewery in England and Forest Fruits (B330) from the Netherlands.
68 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-102-2323, 084-551-5559. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am
Owned by a Venezuelan family, the recently opened Ceresia Coffee Roasters is a small but pleasantly light and airy brick and wood dominated space. The highlight is that they sell single origin and original blended coffee sourced from a variety of farms worldwide, roasted in small batches and rotated seasonally. Try their filter coffee (B95) or a flat white (B95) along with a slice of carrot cake (B75).
593/29-41 Sukhumvit Soi 33/1, 086-843-8235. Open Tue-Sun 8am-6pm
This compact café serves up a variety of homemade cakes in a chill outdoor setting. Indulge in their tasty coconut cake (B90) or choose from the freshly baked treats on display such as carrot cupcake (B75) and banana Nutella muffin (B85). Also grab a cold latte (B65) to go. Don’t forget to give the big fat beagle a big old cuddle, it’s good for the soul.
19/5 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 081-928-8506. Open Wed-Sun 11am-6:30pm
Owner Idrees Dawud is an American jazz devotee and trumpeter whose father actually played with Art Blakey and Thelonious Monk in the legendary The Jazz Messengers. There are live performances daily from 7pm except Mon-Tue with the line-up changing regularly, drawing from a pool of local musicians. Entry fee B200, whisky from B270/glass, beer from B170.
2/F Nuam Complex,1 Soi Daeng Udom, Sukhumvit Soi 33, 092-523-6862. Set to reopen in Oct. www.ohsomuchjazz.com.
Although The Londoner is billed as a British pub, the brewmaster, Peter Schwarzmueller, is a true Bavarian and a real beer connoisseur. His two house brews, London Pilsner 33 and Londoner’s Pride Cream Bitter, are products of his German heritage, and cost B100 a pint. These brews are backed up by the pub’s epic two-for-one on drinks deal every Wednesday night, lots of screens for the sport and a great Sunday roast.
B/F, UBC II Bldg., Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-261-0238/9. Open daily 11-1am
This latest spa opening on Sukhumvit Soi 33 is one that looks to soothe the aches and pains of partygoers. The decor is cozy and minimal, with touches of wood. Apart from the usual Thai and aroma massages and body scrubs, the real highlight treatments are those aimed at rejuvenating you after a night of partying, like the Hangover Retreat (head massage and special drink B1,200/1h30min) and The Micro Nap (B800/1h). The spa also features a bar—yep, you heard it right—serving wine, cocktails and whisky.
12/1 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-258-5018. Open Tue-Sun 10am-midnight
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Bershka
The fourth and largest boutique of Spanish label Bershka, known for its on-trend, casual looks, is a bright, modish space that houses more menswear items than its other outlets.
Jamie's Italian
It might be a little overhyped given that back in the UK it’s a reliably affordable chain with more than 30 outlets, but Jamie’s Italian—Jamie Oliver's first Singapore project—is already backed with a waiting list lasting week. The large space—which has a clear sea view—serves up affordable everyday eats, which are very similar to the chain’s offerings worldwide. There’s Jool’s Favourite Sicilian Tuna Fusilli (from $14), a briny bowlful of house-made pasta, slow-cooked albacore and cinnamon breadcrumb topping, plus grilled chicken with pizziola tomato sauce ($28).
Magnum Singapore Pleasure Store
Ice-cream company Magnum will run this pop-up at VivoCity through November 30 (daily 11am-10:30pm). The store will feature plated Magnum desserts—including Goldfinger ($11), a Magnum, crepe, gold nuggets, nuts and chocolate sauce, and A Midsummer’s Night Dream ($18), a Magnum, edible flowers, berries and white chocolate—as well as Magnum cocktails like A Magnum Sunset ($16), orange juice, Galliano, Bols Triple and Magnum.
The Chop House
This gastrobar is a project by the folks behind Wooloomooloo Steakhouse. It’s a spacious On the menu are starters like mussel soup ($10), grills such as steaks (from $27) and a Berkshire pork chop ($32) as well as a giant beef shank ($140), which serves four to six people. There are also hearty burgers including The Chop House pork burger ($22) with Asian seasonings: chilli, ginger and coriander. Drink-wise, they’ve got SelfTap Beer system with five taps. (You can buy beer with a stored value card, which you tap against the reader before pulling your own pint.)
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At the heart of Chinatown, Amoy Street’s a real convenient spot for CBD folk to eat. But unlike fancier parts of the neighborhood that focus on fine-dining (think Bukit Pasoh) or drinks (Club Street), the area’s got all sorts of diverse options to take you through the day: French pastries for breakfast, generous sandwiches or inventive hawker fare for lunch, some serious sweets to perk you up mid afternoon, and as night falls, slick cocktails and comforting Italian dinners. It’s pretty much a Swiss army knife for folks who eat out.
On offer at this cute café is everything you need for a great weekday lunch: A perfectly seasoned chicken sanger packed with guacamole and bacon ($13.90), refreshing lemon-mint iced tea ($7) and a super dense chocolate-y brownie ($4). The servers are real friendly to boot.
This first Singapore outlet by the French bakery chain is a convenient place to pick up pain au chocolat ($2.50) or—even better—plush white chocolate-studded buns ($1.90) for breakfast, and crusty baguette ($2.90) to go with dinner.
For those who deem themselves true-blue dark chocolate aficionados this spot—owned by chocolatier Teng Ei Liang—is the place to be. The handmade truffles ($3), the signature chocolate cake ($11/slice, $85/whole), and espresso- and Earl Grey-infused chocolate tarts ($7/slice, $50/whole) are all delish.
The industrial looking space features an open-concept kitchen, and can get pretty warm at times (ventilation isn’t great). Still, it’s worth braving the sweltering heat for executive chef Colin West’s soul satisfying menu of American grills. We reckon the burgers—hand-formed to weigh 150g each—including the CW Burger Breakfast ($21), a beef patty with a sunny side up egg, bacon and aged cheddar are the best in town.
This unusual hawker stall, setup by Shatec-trained chefs Gwern Khoo and Ben Tham—who have worked as top restaurants like Iggy’s, Waku Ghin and Restaurant ANDRE—offers Singapore-style ramen ($5/small, $6/medium, $7/large), which incorporates flavors from local dishes like prawn mee and wonton mee as well as sous vide cha-su.
more places to eat in Tanjong Pagar
Owned by Matthew Chow, this narrow minimalist store with all-white furnishings offers a menu that’s just as spare as the decor. The focus is simple ganache-topped chocolate cakes, which come in two sizes: Individual minis ($4) and 1kg-whole cakes ($48).
The more-ish beef tripe stew in tomato sauce ($18) and homemade pastas including linguine with lobster in spicy arrabbiata sauce ($26) at this Tuscan joint keep regulars coming back for more. The restaurant also houses a pretty floor-to-ceiling wine cellar with a collection of over 120 Italian labels (from $12/glass, $68/bottle).
Local music act Jack & Rai, and Jack’s wife Angelina, run this cozy Japanese eatery hidden away on a side alley. To eat, there’s selection of fusion Japanese bites such as soba pasta ($16), featuring tomato-sauced noodles and breaded fried shrimp, as well as more traditional offerings like the sashimi platter ($42), and salmon and ikura chirashi ($13).
Colorful and friendly, with red and yellow booth seats and a collection of vintage liquor posters on the walls, this welcoming cocktail spot offers a grid-like menu of tipples including classics like the negroni ($20) and new inventions such as Little Red Dot ($22), made from Tanqueray Ten gin, raspberries, lychee liqueur, grapefruit juice and Indian rosewater.
This Hokkien establishment is a real institution, having been around for more than 30 years. It’s the perfect place for an old school Chinese meal, featuring classics like fried hokkien noodles (from $7), crisp fried prawn balls (from $8) and oyster omelette (from $12).
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Oceans of Seafood
Pasarbella stall 11
The anchor tenant of PasarBella offers Singapore’s largest selection of top quality imported seafood. Sashimi options like the tobiuo (flying fish) might set you back $20, plus a $10 charge to have the meat made into sashimi and the bones deep fried to a crispy, calcium rich delight. There’s also an awesome plate of “special” sushi at $43. On the international side, go a la carte or select one of the boiled/steamed seafood sets—from the mammoth Platter Royale! (two Boston lobsters, two South African lobsters, two Dungeness crabs, six French oysters, four bamboo clams, 1kg king prawns) at $548, to combinations better suited for two diners at $98 and $138.
Huber’s Deli
Pasarbella stall 20/21
Known for their popular store and bistro at Dempsey Hill, the well-known local meat purveyor’s deli at PasarBella serves sandwiches for a quick lunch such as currywurst ($7.80) and a bahn mi-like deli sandwich ($7.80). Plus, there’s a wide range of pre-packed sausages, a variety of cold cuts such as ham, kassler, lyoner, and air-dried hams (think jamon iberico and parma ham) to take home.
Le Patio
Pasarbella stall 27
This Mediterranean- themed eatery at PasarBella is owned by Malaysian-Taiwanese Sean Lai, who grew up in Germany and Switzerland. The main attraction here is the giant pans of paella ($11.90) they always have cooking. For dessert, grab one of their simple and affordable French crepes with lemon and sugar ($3) or home-made pastries such as chouquettes ($0.90). There's also coffee (from $3) to wash it all down.
The Cheese Ark
Pasarbella stall 28
This cheese shop at PasarBella looks and feels like a utilitarian basement slash garage workshop—exposed concrete and pressed wood walls, untreated wood shelving, and wall-mounted tools at the ready. Cheesemonger Syu Ai Ming’s workbench is smack dab in the middle of the space and the far wall consists of walk-ins fridges with glass doors so you can see the giant wheels arranged floor to ceiling on shelves (cheeses from France, Switzerland and Italy, most prominently). There are 50-60 cheeses in stock. To go alongside there’s dried mulberries, dried figs and walnuts.
Merchants
Pasarbella stall 43/44
PasarBella's wine co-op brings in vintages from small scale vineyards such as Tamburlaine Organic Wines in Australia. They also host wine classes and talks by specially flown wine masters.
The Great Beer Experiment
Pasarbella stall 46
Shop, bar and classroom The Great Beer Experiment at PasarBella offers an impressive array of over 150 beer labels. The selection includes craft brews such as Crabbie’s alcoholic ginger beer (from $6.50), Steenbrugge Wit ($7.50), Delirium Tremens ($13). Plus, the place has a library with beer books and puts out workshops for folks who are serious about their suds. They also release new draft beers every other week.
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The last few months have seen plenty of column inches devoted to the 600-rai plot of greenery situated in the heart of the city, just twenty minutes from downtown Siam. The Makkasan rail depot is owned by the State Railway of Thailand (SRT) who are looking at redeveloping the land in an attempt to recoup some of the huge debts they currently hold. The obvious solution would be a shiny new concrete complex of hotels, malls, condos and office blocks but there has been growing opposition to this plan from environmentalists, architects, historians and even everyday Bangkokians who don’t want to see this green oasis lost forever. We spoke to various stakeholders in the project and found out why they feel Makkasan is so important to the city and what it could potentially be used for.
“No person can be blamed; it's down to all of us who never make a stand to protect green spaces in Bangkok. We speak out on what we want to have in this city, but gossiping and complaining can’t change things. The old Terms Of Reference (TOR) for Makkasan didn’t make any sense in terms of truly developing the city. The SRT needs B200 billion [to repay its debts] but no private sector company has that kind of huge budget to develop the Makkasan area, which could end up being another 'Hopewell' [a failed infrastucture project] if it isn’t well-planned. As a citizen and architect, I decided to go and talk to the Transport Minister Chatchart Sittipan to offer my idea about how Makkasan could be developed. I feel [my plan] is the better solution for the city. We can have a park, museum as well as commercial areas and a market like Chatuchak without cutting down all the trees and destroying the beautiful old buildings. The authorities might not listen but at least I made a stand for what I want for this city. Now it’s your turn to stand up for what you want in this city too.”
“Undeveloped land like this plays a really important part in absorbing water. Soil can absorb millions of cubic meters of rainwater every year. Makkasan is full of such land and is also home to a large swamp that acts like a cesspit for Bangkok. There's nowhere else like this in the city anymore. We already waste millions of Baht every year to buy oil to run water pumps to stop the flooding in the rainy season. So imagine if we cover Makkasan with concrete, where do you think all the water it currently retains will go? Think of the billions we’re going to waste having to deal with worse floods in the future.”
“Adaptive reuse for old buildings is a world trend and a way of preserving the city’s character and history, and in turn attracting visitors. For example, the Bercy area in Paris where they transformed 19th Century wine warehouses into shops and restaurants instead of just letting them decay. It’s now a popular area for people to hang out and shop. Bangkok must protect its heritage as a key selling point too. Makkasan isn’t a blank space with no history. It's home to Thailand’s first train factory and it’s main building was built way back in 1922. The building has such a high architectural value that the Association of Siam Architects (ASA) honored it with a Conservation Award in 2006. If we delete our roots by destroying our existing history, such as old buildings like these, then what story will we have left to tell the next generation and people from all over the world? Reading history books just can’t compare to seeing and touching something that is real and in front of you.”
“When we consider any giant development we must think of the characteristics of the city and how the development connects with people. Instead of targeting profit first, Makkasan should be developed as a mixed-use space. Think of Beijing’s 798 Art Zone that transformed a 50-year-old decommissioned military factory into a major art district. It is now a hugely popular area, has given people a creative space and also helped them to connect with each other. It makes the city more dynamic, helps increase the value of the neighboring properties and also generates income from tourists. Think of Makkasan’s location and its great transport options thanks to the Airport Link. It could become an important hub for Bangkok and all of its inhabitants, not just those with lots of money. King Rama V donated the land to the SRT 100 years ago with the aim of benefitting the country as a whole, so the SRT needs to stick to that vision.”
“It’s hard to find a space in Bangkok that serves everyone from kids to senior citizens. As a musician and teacher, it’s difficult to find a place for learning activities in the city. We need an open art square that can serve all kinds of art activities even dance! Creating culture makes people come to an area which in turn benefits local business and society.”
“Bangkok city is like hell on earth. The air in the inner city is choked by toxins from factories and cars that are fatal in the long term. The inner city has less than two sq meter of green space per person but you need green space to tackle air pollution. The only way of truly cleaning up our air is through our trees. We definitely need more green space.”
“We as Bangkokians have focused on economic growth and neglected our quality of life for too long. Let’s create a society where parks are part of our life, not just shopping malls. Makkasan can easily become our new park as it’s already full of 100-year-old trees. It can be a place for people to learn about nature and the environment right in the heart of the city, while the gorgeous buildings can be a beautiful train museum. It only takes a few months to create a new building but it takes a 100 years to grow a big tree. Let’s make parks our new destination.”
“It is time for Bangkok to have an area dedicated to art. Other major metropolises around the world have their art streets or art zones which help benefit street culture and the city’s overall creativity. As I live near Makkasan, I know how useless it is to have the land just sitting there doing nothing. It would be great for the community that surrounds it to have a museum or public space where artists and the public can gather and share ideas together.”
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If Tiong Bahru and Jalan Besar are getting too busy for you, Everton Park might just be the place for that quiet cuppa on a Saturday morning—it’s no coincidence that three coffee joints and two bakeries (what did we tell you?) have opened in this quaint neighborhood over the past year. “This is one of the oldest HDB blocks of Singapore and has seen its growth through the decades,” says Casey Loh, co-founder of refurbished antique furnishing store Artsyfact, one of the first few shops to open here last year. “We wanted to have presence in an estate that pays homage to nostalgia but is also surrounded by Singapore’s ever-evolving cityscape.”
Its close proximity to Neil Road and Spottiswoode Park also means that city slickers can either have a meal at one of the old-school kopitiams along the former or check out art gallery Vue Privee at the latter before proceeding here for coffee and desserts. Located on the ground floor of HDB blocks, these establishments are fairly accessible, but be prepared to make a few wrong turns (old designs may be charming, but they’re not always practical).
One-year-old Nylon Coffee Roasters is must for serious coffee lovers. Primarily a coffee roaster, this small joint is best for a quickie takeaway for a cup of espresso ($3) before you proceed to check out the rest of the area. Reminiscent of Papa Palheta and Chye Seng Huat (proprietors Lee Jia Min and Dennis Tang were former partners at the two joints), this is a quaint, scaled-down neighbourhood version specializing in six types of blends using beans from El Salvador and Kenya. Meanwhile, Just Want Coffee is great if it’s variety you’re looking for. Espressos and house blends aside, you can also pick up their caramel ice drip ($7) and Luwak coffee ($35) at this easy-going 25-seater cafe. Twenty-day-old Cozy Corner Coffee (#01-50 Blk. 4 Everton Park)—with its graffiti walls and trendy furniture—is another great new joint to hang out in, serving sandwiches (from $6.50) and pies (from $2.50) on the side.
For desserts, don’t miss Grin Affair for their highly creative “cakes in a jar”. Spanning flavours like strawberry cheesecake and hazelnut, these are a step up from regular cakes found in other bakeries as they are all individually handmade and hand-packed by brother-and-sister team Leslie and Jody Ong. All cakes are stuffed in recyclable mini jars and make perfect gift ideas (plus, they’re only $5.50 each). Batterworks is another spot load up on a wide range of pastries from just 95 cents each, or $5.50 for six.
Then there is Artsyfact (Call to make an appointment), a small but hip vintage furnishing store founded by Aaron Koh, Casey Loh and Leon Lai (no, not the Canto-pop singer). The trio scour the island’s estates, homes and flea markets for unwanted junk, then repurpose and restore them into unique furniture and furnishings (prices range from $19 for an enamel vase to $2,000 for a sofa). Aspects of the original material, including its history with previous owners, are preserved and there’s always a story to tell.
While it’s still early days to really tell if Everton Park has the potential to become a destination in its own right, its quaint setting and increasingly modern mix of cafes are telling signs that it is not far off. “The potential for Everton Park to grow is there as older shop owners are moving out to make space for newer tenants,” says Artsyfact’s Loh. Though footfall isn't fantastic, we still expect indie-types to come down to this area to hang out.”
Clubbing at the usual shiny mega-institutions these days feels like stepping into a Rich Kids of Instagram diorama (only real!), what with barely-legal young men and misses—each armed with a personal giant bottle of Dom Pérignon—cavorting to Avicii. So it’s no surprise that savvier folk have been sniffing out the Alexandra area for alternative parties. The boys from Sideshow practically hold court here, with their wildly successful garden parties at The Training Shed setting the tone with their free-wheeling Sunday outdoor parties, plus a recent do inside art gallery Future Perfect. And last month we saw the Super 0 parties take the heat up a notch with cult names like 2562, Delta Funktionen and Dinky gracing the decks of an ingeniously converted space in Gillman Barracks.
Of course, people were already hanging out here before anything ever popped up in Gillman Barracks—this cluster of galleries and eateries has been on everyone’s radar since its massive opening last year. If you plan to visit, look out for upcoming openings. Some galleries synchronize their opening nights, which are great fun for gallery-hopping.
F&B offerings can sometimes be a little lackluster at spots like these that are far from competing dining destinations. Fortunately, there are a couple of gems here that make the grade. We really like The Naked Finn, which has plenty of indie cred, having begun as a little pop-up kitchen at the now-defunct hip local boutique A Curious Teepee. It’s all grown up now and has a place of its own, drawing hungry crowds nightly with grilled seafood and refreshing cocktails (from $16). A more romantic spot is secluded modern Thai joint Tamarind Hill, while crunchy types can get their greens at Onaka, which makes use of wholesome meat analogs in their dishes (tempeh Reuben sandwiches!, $13).
For post-dinner drinks, there’s Room Coffee Bar, a dinky little cafe which used to be tucked away in a shophouse on Carpenter Street. But unless there’s a party going on, nights here tend to be on the low-key side, so if you’re in the mood for beer and music, Timbre @ Gillman is probably your best bet for kicking back until late.
Although there’s art and music aplenty in this part of the island if (and only if) you know when exactly to swing by, there just aren’t enough choices around to make this a 24/7 hangout yet. On our wishlist? Casual cafes could turn this into the ultimate brunch spot, and it would be ear-splittingly amazing if forward-thinking nightspots (think the old La Maison on Fairways Drive) could capitalize on the low residential density here.
This tight alley may have just five hip dining establishments, but that’s quite enough to rival other hip hoods in terms of crowd density. Anyone who’s walked the street will know that well—even the quietest weekday spot here is almost full house on a weekend. That, despite the estate being far from the city (located off Upper Serangoon Road) and at least 15 minutes on foot from the Lorong Chuan MRT Station. Driving? Word of warning: parking is limited and can be a nightmare. But if lack of access hasn’t affected businesses, it can only mean one thing: Jalan Riang is doing something right.
The first to take up residency here was three-year-old The Fat Cat, a casual, non-airconditioned bistro with a serviced food court concept. There are three stalls serving Thai, North Indian and French cuisine, plus the eatery’s own bar offering a selection of beers (from $8), wines (from $11 per glass), cocktails (from $10), coffee (from $4), juices (from $3) and desserts (from $1). With each stall offering its own distinct flavor and menu—we’re talking about over 100 food items—it won’t be easy making decisions, but the wide variety of dishes are hard to fault.
Next door, seafood restaurant The Cajun Kings, replacing the former Jules Cafe Bar, bustles with a swinging, convivial ambiance. This is the kind of place to forget all table manners—eat with your hands, laugh out loud, slurp and burp if you like—while you feast on its hearty Cajun-boiled shellfish like crabs, mussels and prawns served in plastic bags (from $8 per 100g). For dessert, try the quaint neighboring chocolate cafe Wimbly Lu if you’re in the mood for sophisticated sweets like chocolate crème brulee ($5) and the Blackout Cake ($6). Plus, its whimsical décor complete with fairy-lighted glass roof and cozy vibe might be just what you need for a quiet evening.
For affordable, true-to-form Italian fare, La Pizzaiola ticks all the right boxes. This second outlet, with its unfussy, modern interiors of wood-paneled walls, dark-colored furnishings and concrete floors, offers a concise menu of Italian standards: antipasti (from $6.90), pasta (from $12.90) and pizza (baked in a wood-fired oven, from $13.90).
Finally, at the end of the street is the latest addition to the scene: coffee spot Rokeby (pronounced roc-ker-bee), named after a street in Western Australia. The three-month-old establishment serves artisanal coffee (from $3.50) complete with latte art, as well as a decent selection of starters (from $6.90), Western mains such as prawn risotto ($18.90) and kurobuta pork collar ($23.90).
More venues might help to stretch the crowd thinner, but Jalan Riang is a small lane and there are not nearly enough of the charming 1980s shophouses to go around (maybe just two or three more and the area will be full). Nonetheless, what the street lacks in quantity it makes up with quality.
Although there never was any shortage of good food around here, Katong somehow never got around to becoming truly hip. These days, however, it looks as though the profile of this area is finally about to rise above its laksa-and-Peranakan-kueh doldrums. What with the iconic Red House Bakery currently being renovated into a set of slick apartments, the whiff of imminent gentrification is pretty strong.
Another old-school institution that’s recently undergone a makeover is AlibabaR the Hawker Bar, a kopitiam that’s somewhat catapulted to fame following the success of French food stall Saveur, which now has its own digs at Purvis Street. It’s now more of an open-air bistro where you can sip on upmarket brews like Belgian Trappistes Rochefort beers (from $12.90). There isn’t a mixologist on the premises, but we wouldn’t be entirely surprised to see one. It certainly seems like East Coasters have an unquenchable thirst for booze, and aren’t shy about flocking to new bars either. We visited some newer kids on the block Immigrants and sister establishments Rabbit Carrot Gun and The Trenchard Arms right after they opened, and found that they were already packed with crowds of rowdy (in the first case) and grizzled (in the latter) regulars.
A notable alternative is Penny University , a lively cafe that’s packed to the gills on weekends despite not serving alcohol (nor pork; it’s halal). With a streamlined menu of coffee, tea, breakfast bites and Windowsill pies, it’s sort of the grown-up, cooler older sibling of run-of-the-mill coffee chains hawking sugary ice-blended drinks. Instead of pimply study groups, you’ll find mostly young adults on platonic coffee dates and folks doing their own thing, accompanied by cups of their signature muddy espresso ($5.50). As the cafe looks to expand its menu with classic fry-ups, we think this could easily become Katong’s answer to Loysel’s Toy or Kith Cafe.
Katong has plenty going for it, being a bit of a favorite with design collectives like Kinetic and PHUNK Studio. There’s even a gallery of sorts along the main foodie strip, in the form of Mad Nest. But nearby hawker food offerings and shopping malls make this a truly egalitarian hangout, and not just a hip destination for those—like you, now—in the know.
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