From the streets to the hotels, our favorite 49 sweet dishes (in no particular order) and where to get them.

01. Vanilla ice cream with balsamic vinegar

Gaggan, 68/1 Soi Langsuan, Phloenchit Rd., 02-652-1700. Open daily 6pm-midnight
Just because this gorgeous white house on Langsuan serves modern gastro-tinged Indian platters doesn’t mean Chef Gaggan doesn’t know the joys of simplicity. Try his homemade vanilla ice cream with 40-year-old balsamic vinegar from Modena (which, incidentally, also makes this sublime dish a whopping B400). If you don’t see it on the menu, Chef Gaggan will be happy to whip it up.

02. Cherry Tart

Le Blanc, 15 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-259-4353. Open Mon-Fri 8am-6:30pm, Sat 8am-5pm
This humble little bakery in residential Soi 39 packs some serious pastry surprises created by a serious, young Japanese couple. Among their baguettes and croissants is a selection of tiny round fruit tarts. The pastry is a crispy, flakey triumph of good ingredients and minimal kneading and the cherry topping (our favorite) with a touch of vanilla custard is bliss (B45 per piece, B199 for 5).

03. Vanilla Cream Puff

Beard Papa, G/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., BTS Siam, 02-610-7534. Open daily 11am-10pm
We know it’s a chain, but this is a democratic round-up, and we have to admit we have a weakness for the soft cream puff pastry and the cold, vanilla-heavy custard inside. It’s cheap and plentiful around the city. Forget the special fillings and stick to classic vanilla, with the pretty little black specks of beans in it.

04. Scones with Jam and Clotted Cream

Scones, 2/F, Zone A, CentralWorld, Ratchdamri Rd., 081-869-9045. Open daily 10am-9pm
From the folks who brought us Anotai, this charming shop, now reopened after the fire last year, doles out this uniquely English tea treat. They come in seven incarnations (including prune, lavender, butterfly pea, B45 each) with proper accompaniments like clotted or whipped cream, organic teas from all over the world (B120 per pot) and homemade jams. A set with two scones, jam and proper clotted cream comes for B125 (drink not included).

05. Frozen Yogurt

Red Mango, 4/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1713. BTS Siam. www.redmangothailand.com. Open daily 9am-10pm
Red Mango was the first to bring frozen yogurt to Bangkok. Despite the name, you can top your cup of swirly iced yogurt with anything from cherries and candied fruits to chocolate chips and cornflakes. The highlight, though, is the frozen yogurt itself, which tastes like a delicious lassi that’s been left in the freezer. If the “S” sized bowl (B89) isn’t enough to quell your craving then you can also order a takeaway box.

06. Vanilla Waffles

Ohana Cafe, 50/4 Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-661-1930. www.ohanafreshcafe.com. Open daily 8am-7pm
This idyllic, sun-drenched gem is a welcome haven on a busy soi. Its enormous glass panes, greenery, chic couches and travel/photography library make you want to linger for hours. Despite their excellent pastas and sandwiches, the real highlight, we think, is their eye-popping vanilla waffle with generous amounts of strawberries and ice cream (B160). Other treats include hot chocolate (B90), milkshakes (B140) and free Wi-Fi. And to make life that much easier, they now have parking spots a short walk away.

07. Carrot Cake

Sunrise Tacos. 234/5-6 Sukhumvit Soi 12, 02-229-4851. Open 24 hrs. Visit www.sunrisetacos.com for their other branches
Bangkok has no shortage of Oreo cakes and cheesecakes­—funny how a few US military bases in the sixties colonized our dessert culture forever. Unfortunately, the rarer carrot cake is often dry, bland and overly sweet. But not here! The one at Sunrise Tacos (B90) has bits of crunchy nuts to bring some oomph to its fluffy, flavorful dough—the ultimate sugar blast to end a meal of meat, cheese and corn shells.

08. Cup C

Summer, 199 Sukhumvit Soi 49 (Promsri), 02-392-2747. www.springnsummer.com. Open daily noon-midnight
The ever-so-stylish yet always welcoming restaurant off Soi 49 is the place for dessert lovers. Seat yourself on the open-air front lawn and gorge on a bowl of Cup C—their chocolate brownie best seller. Besides the extensive drinks menu that stretches from mojitos to hot malt, you can also order one of their house special sweet treats like the aptly named BTS (Better Than Sex) chocolate mousse for B140.

09. Red Velvet Cupcake

Dugong, The Avenue Chaengwattana, Chaengwattana Rd., 02-982-5229. www.dugongcupcakes.com. Open daily 10am-9pm
A sit-down café from the folks behind the Pandora cupcake booth at Emporium, Dugong is miniature and adorable, with just three tables, a white counter and a glass case displaying some 30 varieties of their mouth-watering, low-fat fare. Try the Red Velvet (B45) with its cream cheese frosting, or the Dutch Chocolate with gooey chocolate fudge topping. If you live across town, stock up on your supply by getting delivery, which is free for orders over B2,500.

10. Santol in Perfumed Syrup with Yellow Bean and Cashew Nut Pudding and Deep Fried Shallots

Nahm. Metropolitan. 27 Sathorn Rd., 02-625 3333. Open daily 10am-9pm
David Thompson’s partner and dessert chef, Tanongsak Yordwai, is a genius. We could have picked anyone of his sublime desserts, so we just picked the last one we ate. As always, it strikes a perfect balance. In this case, a dense, rich pudding is offset by the cold, lightly perfumed syrup and its crushed ice (280). The final touches: delicate fried shallots on the pudding, slices of santol in the syrup. Perfection.

11. French Toast

Gastro 1/6, RMA Institute, Soi Namthip 2, Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-663-0809. Open Tue-Sun 8:30am-3pm
We’re really fond of this little cafe in the front yard of the RMA Institute, with its hanging foliage and mismatched furniture. Pair that with strong coffee and their decadent plate of french toast topped with seasonal fruits and berries and syrup (B195), and you’ve got yourself a well-worth-it food coma. They also have pastries by Le Blanc and fantastic savory breakfasts involving organic eggs and homemade sausages.

12. Kanten-Jelly with Red Bean, Chestnut, Dumplings and Vanilla Ice Cream

Yumemiya, 6/F, Gochiso Street, Isetan, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-255-9894. Open daily 11am-10pm
Desserts take up nearly half the menu here, but we encourage you to experience the jelly with red bean, chestnuts, dumplings, and vanilla ice cream. It’s huge, it comes with a cup of authentic, thick green tea, and it’s such a weird mix of textures (B140).

13. Seng Sim Ee

Chula, Soi 5, Suan Luang Market, 02-214-0612. Open daily noon-midnight
Around for several generations, Sing Sem Ee remains the go-to nam khaeng sai (Chinese shaved ice and syrup dessert) place for Chula kids and neighborhood enthusiasts. While the recent changes to the area have meant a slight dip in customers, the place is still full to the brim most nights, necessitating table-sharing. If you’re anything like us, cover your head, duck and run past the bees swarming the dazzling display of over twenty sweet toppings out front to reach the safety of the back room. Here you can enjoy the range of rice flour balls, pickled plums, glass noodles, balls of ice and more. Prices for a bowl range from B20-40.

14. Tartelette au Citron (Lemon Tartlet)

Le Notre, G/F, Paragon. Rama 1 Rd. BTS Siam, 02-129-4365. Open daily 10am-9:30pm
While everyone seems to be making big fluffy cakes, it takes a French patisserie to whip up a pastry with some backbone, in this case, a perfectly executed “pate sablee” (shortcrust pastry). The tangy lemon curd in the middle is perfect, too (B85). Of course, if you do like your desserts soft and tender, Le Notre’s is also our favorite eclair (chocolat or coffee, B75).

15. Mango and sticky rice

Mae Waree, Soi Thong Lor. 02-392-4804. Open 10am-9:30pm
A few steps into Soi Thong Lor and you’ll come across a fruit shop with a massive mango display out on the sidewalk, along with some gorgeous, purple mangosteens (as the season just started). But the mangoes aren’t just to take home. They can also fix you up a plate or box of delectable mango and sticky rice (B80).

16. Raspberry Tiramisu

Horse Says Moooo, 8/1 Nuam Complex, Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-662-0402. Open Mon-Fri 11am-midnight, Sat-Sun 10:30-midnight
One thing you would never complain about here is the size of the portions. The desserts are simply enormous—seriously we’d struggle to fit their raspberry tiramasu into our flat. Fortunately, its not as heavy as it looks, with a light creamy texture that’s given a nice twist thanks to the tart, fruitiness of the raspberries (B250).

17. Shibuya Honey Toast

After You, J Avenue, Thonglor Soi 13, 02-712-9266. Mon-Sun 9pm-midnight
It’s located in the hip and happening J Avenue on Thonglor, so you can expect the desserts to be hi-so crowd pleasers. The shop is run by a food writer, whose passion for Japanese-style treats makes After You the spot to sample the gastronomic goodies you see on Japanese TV shows. Try their super buttery honey toast topped with vanilla ice cream. It’s a hearty must if you’re not watching your weight (B165).

18. Banana Bailey’s Crepe

Crepes and Co., 18 Sukhumvit Soi 12, 02-653-3990. Open Mon-Sat 9am-midnight, Sun 8am-midnight
Bangkok’s favorite crepes place has been doing this dessert crepe for years now, but we’ve yet to get tired of it. A massive crepe is stuffed with vanilla ice cream, bananas and a slathering of Bailey’s Irish Cream, all dusted with icing sugar (B270). You can share it, but from a messiness standpoint, it’s more fun to have one all by yourself.

19. Custard Pudding

My Porch. 20/13 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-662-6313. Open daily 11am-11pm
Tucked away in a little alley on Sukhumvit Soi 39, My Porch is a cozy little place doing Japanese-Italian fusion. Our favorite dish here is not one of the pastas, though, but the revelatory custard, firm but soft, eggy but sweet, served with a berry jam and amazing, woody caramel that you pour on yourself (B75).

20. Tarte Tatin

Cafe Tartine. Next to Athenee Residence, 65/2 Witthayu (Wireless) Rd., 02-168-5464. Open Mon-Fri 7:30am-8pm, Sat-Sun 9am-8pm
Tarte tatin is an amazing dish which, interestingly, is rarely found in its home country’s patisseries (bakeries) but is a huge restaurant favorite. It’s made by making some caramel at the bottom of a pan, pre-baking sliced apples in the caramel, than baking a crust on top. You then flip the tart (a delicate operation) and take the mold off, so that the apples end up on top of a perfectly crispy crust. At Cafe Tartine, the result is a pleasant combination of acidic apples and slightly bitter caramel. It is served with sweet caramel sauce and whipped cream on the side (B90).

21.  Egg Tarts

Kanom Fashion Bakery, 122 Sukhumvit Soi 49 (Soi Klang), 02-391-2428. Open Mon-Sat 9:30am-8pm, Sun 9:30am-6pm
Earlier this year, the egg tarts from Kanom (B35 for a small, B40 for a large) won our blind taste test. We love how the top is browned nicely and that the flakey crust is crunchy and you can really taste the egg in its thick filling. And, the branch on Sukhumvit Soi 49 is awash in sunlight and fashion magazines, making it a great place to spend the afternoon.

22. Gulab Jamun

Royal India, 392/1 Thanon Chakphet, Wang Burapha Phirom, 02-221-6565. Open daily 10am-10pm
These little balls of browned milk solids, dunked in hot, rose-spiked sugar syrup are a dime a dozen at the city’s ten zillion Indian restaurants. But a taste of the offerings at Royal India in Pahurat, and you’ll see why this dessert is such a requisite addition to any Indian menu. Piping hot and springy, one bite of these will turn you into a gulab jamun snob for life (B12 per piece, B220 per kilo).

23. The Trio of Desserts

The Garret, Rooftop, MINI Showroom, 6th floor, Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Ekkamai), 02-711-6999. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-midnight
You know one thing we always hate about picking a dessert is just that—picking just one. That’s why we love the trio option at this achingly hip gastro bar with it’s stylish prohibition inspired interior and great views over the Ekkamai skyline. The desserts follow the same theme as the pub grub in that they mostly focus on comforting classics, like apple tart and coffee pudding. Just don’t skip the wonderfully decadent molten chocolate dessert served with one scoop of ice cream: suitably crisp on the outside and wonderfully gooey on the inside.

24. Homemade Ice Cream

Nutthaporn Ice Cream, 94 Phraeng Phutorn, Tanao Rd., 02-221-3954, 02-622-2455. Open Mon-Sat 9am-4pm
Sure, it’s a bit out of the way, and a bit hard to find if you don’t know your way around Tanao Rd., but this half-cenury-old ice cream parlor is a sure bet for light and refreshing Thai-style frozen treats (B25 takeout, B22 eat instore). Make sure you order a slice of cake, too.

25. Sweet Toast

Mon Nom Sod, 160/2-3 Dinso Rd., opposite Bangkok City Hall, 02-224-1989. Open sun-thurs 2pm-11, fri-sat 2pm-midnight
This venerable café is overflowing with a crowd vying for tender tasty milk, toasts and steamed bread with sangkhaya. It’s difficult to get a seat and when you do, you can’t occupy it for too long before the servers give you an evil look. (B15 for toast with sugar and butter, B20 for everything else).

26. Boozy Ice Cream

Amaltery, G/F, The Urban Kitchen, Erawan Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-250-7777. Open daily 10am-10pm
Over 30 flavors of frozen cocktail delights infused with five percent alcohol. Cheers!

27. Toblerone Cheesecake

Coffee Beans by Dao, 20/12-15, Soi Ruamrudee, Ploenchit Rd., 02-254-7117/-9. Open daily 10am-10pm
Prices are steep (B110 up) but Dao’s legendary white choc’ cheesecake, New York cheesecake and flourless chocolate cake are totally worth your money—and the time you will need to spend on a treadmill burning them off. The Toberlone cheesecake, in particular, combines two guilty pleasures: nougat and cream cheese.

28. Sweet Roti

Roti Pa Auan, Tripetch Rd., Pahurat, opposite Poh Chang College, 02-221-2084. Open daily 11am-6pm
Drop by wearing pants loose at the waist as the paper-thin crisp roti sprinkled with sugar and condensed milk is extremely addictive. It looks and feels light but don’t let it fool you. Also known as Roti Poh Chang.

29. New York Cheesecake

NYCC. Crystal Design Center, Praditmanutham Rd., 02-1022065. Open Mon-Thu 10:30am-9pm, Fri-Sun 10:30am-10pm
Sure, they do a few other things, like Chocolate Truffle Cheesecake (B179) or Black Forest Cake (B169). But what really makes the trip to CDC worth it (and putting up with the shack’s no-frills decor) is its splendid New York-style cheesecake (B179)—hence the occasional queues.

30. Flourless Chocolate Cake

Eat Me. Soi Phipat 2, Convent Rd, 02-238-0931. Open daily 3pm-1am
It’s ironic that since the talented New York pastry chef Tim Butler took over the kitchens of this long standing (and very cool) restaurant-slash-art gallery, he hasn’t changed the desserts. In particular, why mess with the flourless chocolate cake (B270)? It’s decadently divine.

31. 58% Dark Chocolate Drinks

Unit 204-206,  2/F, Exchange Tower, 388 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-663-4554. Open Mon-Fri 7:30am-9:30pm, Sat-Sun 9am-9pm
Chu gets its name from its churros (B90/plate, add chocolate or dulce de leche for another B20). But we’ve really fallen in love with their chocolate drinks. The darkest one, made with 58% cacao French baking chocolate (as opposed to cacao powder) is wonderfully complex, bitter and creamy (hot B100, iced B120, frappe B130).

32. Premium milk ice cream

B Naturale, 3/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-129-4784. Visit www.bnaturale.com for other branches. Open daily 10am-9.30pm
Here, it’s all about ice cream served in freshly-baked waffle cones. Prices are steep, but only because the treats are made from imported Hokkaido milk (that’s supposedly better than regular milk). The menu is brief but delectable: Premium Milk, Organic Maple, Banana, Strawberry Millefeuille, Matcha Millefeuille, Belgium Chocolate and the exceptional Sea Salt Caramel. Additional toppings are available for those who like a bit of drama. (B85 per 90 grams)

33. Customized Ice Cream

Cold Stone Creamery, 6/F, Beacon Zone, CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd. Open daily 10am-10pm
This premium American ice cream parlor is now several branches old in Thailand and lets you customize your ice cream, combining a flavor of your choice along with a choice of toppings. The components get slapped onto a frozen granite slab and manhandled until it’s all mixed in. In Bangkok, it’s been lovingly called i teem pat (ice cream stir-fry).

34. Namora

Beirut, J City Tower, Silom Rd., 02-632-7448. Open daily 11am-11:30pm
For those who don’t dig that dense, chococate-fudgey texture, the semolina cake here is a refreshing alternative and simply lovely. The cake has a soft, but grainy and crumbly texture and is fragrant with rose syrup (B50). Have a slice or two of this with a cup of mint tea.                   

35 French Chocolate Cake

Cherubin. 5/2-3 Sukhumvit Soi 31 (Soi Sawasdee), 02-260-9800. Open Tue-Sun 10:30am-7pm; closed Mon
Chocolate lovers can die happily after a single bite from one of Cherubin’s rich dark delights. The ultimate sins are brownies and French chocolate cake (B110).

36. Raisin Stuffed Bread

Pornchai (Kanompang Banglumpoo). Tanao Rd., Banglumpoo, across from Soi Bavornrangsri. Open daily 8am-6pm
You can’t miss Pornchai, better known as Kanompang Banglumpoo. Before it, a perpetual queue of hungry diners, hypnotized by the scented trail of freshly baked stuffed bread (B30), shuffles zombie-like towards their fix of sausage, shredded pork, ham and raisin stuffing.

37. Kluay Kaek Larn Luang

Larn Luang Rd. Available daily
Passing Larn Luang and Chakkrapatdipong junctions, you’ll see many kluay kaek sellers zigzagging between cars with their bags of banana fritters. Competition is so fierce that the police now fine buyers and vendors alike for causing massive traffic jams. So please, don’t buy from them. (Hey, listen, the fritters from the guy with the red apron are awesome. We never told you. Don’t get caught.)

38. Patongko

Patongko Savoey. 540 Tanao Rd., opposite Bangkok Bank, 02-222-2635. Open daily 6-10am, 4-10pm
If your morning coffee routine involves Starbucks and BK, fine, but on some mornings, you still need to try the deep-fried dough from this long-standing stall. The B20 set includes sangkhaya (Thai custard), or pay a mere B4 per piece.

39. Santol Sorbet

Iberry. Try its J Avenue branch (Thonglor Soi 15, 02-712-6054). Fri-Sat 9am-midnight; Sun-Thurs 10am-11pm. For other branches, visit www.iberryhomemade.com
Their seasonal santol sorbet (B49) rocks! Period. Not in season? Try the mayom, Durian, or something a bit less adventurous like the Horlicks.

40. Macadamia Soft Cake

Mousses & Meringues. 245 Sukhumvit Soi 31 (Soi Sawasdee), 02-261-4830. Open daily 10am-7pm
The décor of this little house is cute and inviting (at least for ladies who lunch) and the Macadamia Soft Cake is irresistible (even if you’re a hardboiled macho man). B95 per piece.

41. Hot Chocolate A-la-minute

Salon. Lobby, The Sukhothai Hotel, 13/3 South Sathorn Rd., 02-344-8888. www.sukhothaihotel.com. Fri-Sun 2-5:30pm
The Sukhothai is famous for its all-you-can-eat chocolate buffet. For B800, you’ll get to taste everything chocolaty from the fountain and mousses to cakes and choco drops. Don’t forget to order a cup of the signature hot chocolate that’s made on the spot by melting chips of chocolate (16 types and origins available, from Cuba to Venezuela) and creme into a cup.

42. Peach Tart with Flaky Dough

The Lobby. Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok, 155 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-250-1000. BTS Ratchadamri. www.fourseasons.com/bangkok. Sat-Sun 8am-6pm
We’ve fallen in love with Stephane Calvet, the French pastry chef at Four Seasons. You could sample his treats at the Sunday brunch or Saturday buffet, but if you’re just going for the sugar high, you might as well stick to the B880 (with tea or coffee) high tea, which features all kinds of amazing desserts like ile flottante (a kind of light meringue floating on a whipped cream sauce). But we’re most impressed by Calvet’s handling of the pate feuillete, that delicate, buttery, layered dough that works so perfectly with tart fruits like apricots and peaches.

43. Brownie Cheese Cake

Cherubin. 5/2-3 Sukhumvit Soi 31 (Soi Sawasdee), 02-260-9800. Open Tue-Thu 10:30am-7pm; Fri-Sun 10:30am-8pm
The place’s name says it all: sweet decor, cutesy café and sugary treats that appeal to the girly clientele in the area. Cherubin keeps it light with a limited selection of cakes and chocolates, but you’ll want to hang around to enjoy the cozy setting, house special teas and fruit juices.Chocolate lovers can die happily after a single bite from one of Cherubin’s rich dark delights. The ultimate is the signature brownie cheese cake (B115).

44. Tia Maria Baileys Chocolate Mousse

Cakewalk. 21/3 Grand Heritage Bldg., Thonglor Soi 13, 02-390-0145. Open daily noon-midnight
This homey café is cast in white and purple hues, and outfitted with comfy couches, puffy pillows and soft easy-listening music. Artificial cakes scattered throughout the shop might throw you off guard, but the Tia Maria Baileys chocolate mousse (B95) hits the spot with its subtle Baileys fragrance and sinful chocolate sauce and icing.

45. Berry Surprise

Sugaroma. 60 Ekamai Soi 12, 02-381-9384, 02-713-3389, www.sugaroma.com. Open daily 11am-9pm
This small bakery shop is indeed imbued with a sugary aroma. Sweeter still is the color scheme that leans heavily to flowery pinks, whites and purples. Guys, if you want to come here, you’d better butch it up—especially as your order the Berry Surprise (B90), a sour berry mousse and berry cheese cake, with a sweet white chocolate sauce. (Make sure you call in and pre-order for the Berry Surprise).

46. Crepe Cake

Secret Garden. 117/1 Sathorn Rd. (in front of Sathorn Soi 5). 02-286-2454. Open daily 11am-9pm
Crepes are yummy on their own. Slather them in cream, stack up a hundred of them and douse in a wonderfully tart rasberry coulis and you’ve got BK’s favorite birthday cake (B125). The place ain’t bad either. Not only is it surrounded by a huge garden, the white house also resembles one inside, with pastel green walls, flower arrangements and decorative artificial vines clinging to chandeliers. Visual pleasures continue with cute diners to match.

47. Japanese-style Cheesecake

Visit Miki Ojisan No Mise at any one of its six branches. Try CentralWorld (7/F, Food Hall, 02-613-1610) and Esplanade (B/F, 02-660-9100)
Miki Ojisan No Mise does only one thing, cheesecake, so you can be sure they do it extremely well. The name means “Uncle Miki’s Shop,” and loong Miki already has a huge fan base judging by his six outlets (and counting) across the city. Soft, fluffy, yummy, freshly baked daily—this Japanese cake (B40/piece, B220/pound) has little in common with the rich, compact American variety. You will have to make one decision, though. Espresso, cacao, pineapple or original? For us, it’s original or nothing.

48. Taohuay

Bua Loi Nam Khing (no official name). Across from Watson’s, Yaowarat Rd.,08-7019-3170. Open Tue-Sun 7pm-2am
This dessert stall has enough mainland Chinese customer’s for the owner to have developed some broken Mandarin. They (and we too!) come for the hot and cold Chinese-style desserts. There are gingko seeds, black sesame dumplings and bean curd to be paired with your choice of fresh milk, ginger soup or longan juice (B40-80). Obviously the bua loi nam king is a big favorite but we prefer the taohuay in ginger syrup.

49. Lord Chong Noodles

680-682 Charoen Krung Rd., 02-221-5794. Open Fri-Wed 11am-10pm
Old men (and the occasional BK writer) can always be found here trying to beat the heat with light green lord chong noodles bathed in fragrant coconut milk and topped with shaved ice (B18).

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Navigate the busy sois and narrow walkways by Siriraj Hospital for some of the best street food our city has to offer. By Aimmarin Siritantitam and Sasinipa Wasantapruek

Across the Chao Phraya River next to Siriraj Hospital, Wang Lang is well-known for its many little sois cramped with shops and stalls. It’s also famous for its sheer density of food stalls, extremely popular among locals and students from Thammasat’s Tha Prachan campus. Here we round up our favorites.

1. Namtok Sida

112/5-6 Soi Wang Lang, Arun Amarin Rd., 02-412-7180. Open 9am-7pm
In operation for some 40 years now, this little Isaan restaurant is a team effort between an older uncle, who waits tables, and an auntie who makes somtam at a station near the front. The specialties here are the tender and flavorful grilled chicken (B90 for half, B180 for whole) and the sueah rong hai (strips of grilled beef brisket, B50). Other Isaan classics are also very good here, such as the grilled pork neck and the somtam (both B50). Be warned that Namtok Sida packs in the customers, particularly around lunchtime and on the weekend.

2. Tee Yai

Behind Wiwatpesad Pharmacy, Soi Wang Lang, 02-411-0275, 081-344-5842. Open 8am-7pm
Walk past the Family Mart on your right and keep walking down this narrow alley until you see a couple of red signs signalling you’re at Tee Yai. This pad Thai and hoi thod place has been around since 1967. The hoi thod (fried oysters with egg, B45) has just the right texture—crispy-edged and not too gooey, not too oily. Tee Yai is also known for its pad Thai. The fresh shrimp pad Thai (B45) has a great flavor of tamarind and a nice, not-too-soft texture of noodles, even though it’s only topped with two fresh shrimps.

3. POh Pia Sod Jao Kao Siriraj

Soi Wang Lang, Prannok Rd. 087-084-5510. Open Mon-Sat 6am-4pm
Literally 10 steps from Tee Yai, further into the alleyway, to the left of KFC, is a stall with a green sign selling poh pia sod. The stall, comprised of three tables, is over 30 years old—hence the name “Poh Pia Sod Jao Kao Siriraj” which translates into “Old Fresh Spring Rolls of Siriraj.” The rolls (B30) are stuffed with Chinese sausage, tofu, bean sprouts, and cucumber. It is served with a sweet and sour brown sauce made of Japanese apricot and topped with crabmeat and egg. It tastes even better with the prik nam som (chili and vinegar) provided.

4. Moo Tod Chao Wang

Opposite Siriraj Hospital, in front of TMB bank. 085-351-4777, 087-594-2466. Open Mon-Sat 9am-6pm
What is most noticeable about the Moo-tod Chao Wang stall is not the big sign posted in front, it is the large, jovial owner’s voice persuading passersby to try out the moo tod. In a nice twist from the usual crispy skewered options, this comes with a savory, full-flavored sauce slathered onto the soft pieces of pork. The owner says the secret to the good taste is the fact that he changes the cooking oil daily. B35 per 100g.

5. Wang Lang Bakery

113 Soi Wang Lang Plaza, Arun Amarin Rd., 02-866-1649. Open 8am-7pm
Known for its many flavors of bread, Wang Lang Bakery has a loyal following of customers who buy in bulk to take home. Out front, below the huge sign bearing the shop’s name, there are rows of bread with different toppings and fillings stacked on top of each other. Beyond that is a mini factory where staff are busy baking away. The bestsellers are the moo yong (dried shredded pork) bread and the raisin bread. The bread itself is sweet and super soft. Each loaf is B40.

6. Kanom Tung-taek Patim

Opposite Siriraj Hospital, in front of Kasikorn Bank, 085-937-1193, 085-110-0467. Open Mon-Sun 9am-8pm
The queue of buyers gathered around the stall makes it hard to miss. They are not only buying because of the reasonable price (B7-10 per piece), but also for the fantastic taste of the old-school tung taek (crepe pancake with filling). The fillings available are coconut, corn, foi thong (sweet egg yolk threads), steamed custard, and raisin, with foi thong being the most popular.

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Our fave salons to get a manicure.

N.I.C. NAIL SALON

3/F, Times Square Building, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-250-0322/-3. Open Mon-Sat 9:30am-6:30pm.www.nicnail.com
Open since 1991, this long-standing nail salon features nail sculpting and lengthening with gel or acrylic nails, manicure and pedicure spa service, as well as hand and foot masks with prices ranging from B300 for a 30-minute shoulder massage to B4,000 for a full-set of gel artificials. Try their new anti-aging hand treatments for B600 or heal the sole with a paraffin foot mask at B900.

GRANDE NAIL-THE NAIL RESORT

13 Sukhumvit Soi 63, 02-714-1015/-6. Open daily 10am-6:30pm. www.grandenail.com
You had best make a reservation, as this beautiful retreat for fingertips and toes has its regulars. Set in a converted house with lush, pebbled gardens and inviting interior, this “nail resort” features a glasshouse-like room to the side that offers a view of a beautiful garden with a running fountain. Savor the tranquility while you sit back in the specially designed chairs. Prices range from B100 to B5,000. Nail extensions start at B1,900. B200 for basic color paint.

TENTEN NAIL SALON

2/F TenTen bldg., 593/2 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-261-3832/-5. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 9am-7pm.
Also housing a hair salon, the place’s main feature is the US-imported Crystal Pipe System nail spa chairs worth a cool B240,000 each and designed for ultimate hygiene. TenTen uses OPI products, imported from the US. The painting is done in a separate room with its own ventilation system. Full manicures are B500, or spend B900 for manicure and pedicure. For a complete OPI manicure and pedicure which includes a mask treatment, count B1,800.

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No time for a six-day retreat in the woods? Clear your mind right here in the city. By Natthanun Prasongchaikul

Sathira-Dhammasathan

The place: Set on a seven-acre property in an environment conducive to meditation, this center offers weekend-long retreats.
When: Registration begins 2-4pm on Fri, and the program ends at 4pm on Sun
How: For those who are planning to stay overnight, register and send in the registration documents at least one week before the program starts. The documents are available on their website. After the registration period ends (at 4pm), the program starts off with a yoga meditation session. The next day, you wake up at 4am for your other sessions. If you don’t want to stay overnight, registration is not required, you can just show up at 9am on Sat or Sun.
The ajarn: Mae Chee Sansanee Sthirasuta
24/5 Soi Watcharapol, Ramindra Rd. 02-510-6697, 02-510-4765. www.sdsweb.org.

Wat Mahathat (Section 5)

The place: A meditation center within the temple. English translators available.
When: There are three sessions daily: 7-10am, 1-4pm and 6-8pm
How: For day sessions, just show up. If you’re staying overnight, bring an ID card and a set of white clothes. Sessions start at 6:30am.
The ajarns: Ajarn Phramaha Suphap Khemarangsi (head of Section Five), Ajarn Maha Sawai Nanaviro, Ajarn Phramaha Boonchit Nanasangvaro, with other experienced monks and laypeople assisting them.
Maharaj Rd., Tha Prachan, 02-222-6011

Wat Pathumwanaram Ratchaworawihan

The place: A royal temple located right in the heart of Bangkok, between Siam Paragon and Central World.
When: 7am-9pm daily
How: Just show up.
The ajarns: The abbot, the Venerable Phra Rajpipatanatorn (Thavorn Chittathavaro), and other senior monks. Phra Rajpipatanatorn, a meditation master and teacher, has given dhamma talks on television, radio and the internet, and has published many dhamma journals and books.
969, Rama 1 Rd., Pathumwan (between Paragon and Central World), 02-255-2271. BTS Siam.

Wat Dhamma Mongkol (Samathi Viriyanuparb Center)

The place: Located beside the Dhamma Mongkol Temple, just beyond the craziness of downtown Sukhumvit, this meditation center was built specifically to accommodate practitioners, so car parks and air-conditioned rooms are thoughtfully provided.
When: 9am-4pm every Sun
How: Just show up. A more advanced session, which will require you to stay overnight, is only available for those who have already done the first day-to-day session. The advanced program is available once a month (to be announced by the center). For that program, registration starts from 4-7pm on Friday with morning wake-up calls at 5am. Call for reservation at 02-741-7822.
The ajarns: The abbot, Phra Dhamma Mongkol Yarn (Luang Poh Viriyung), and other experienced monks.
132 Mooban Rungsiya, Soi Punnavitee 20, Sukhumvit 101, Bang Jak, Phra Kanong. 02-311-3903. www.dhammamongkol.com.

Wat Sanam Nai

The place: A very natural peaceful setting in its original environment.
When:
Registration happens every day, before 4pm.
How: First-time practitioners must be there before 9am or 1pm to practice for the real meditation program (two practice sessions; 9-10:30am and 1-2:30pm). Make sure you dress properly (white, no sleeveless shirts, no shorts). Once you’ve passed the practice session, you’re ready for the overnight program. Bring ID, a blanket and a small overnight bag. Wake up call at 3:30am.
The ajarns: Various teachers following the path of Luang Poh Teean’s “self-awareness” method.
27, Bang Kruai, Nonthaburi. 02-883-7251. www.watsanamnai.org.

Meditation Retreat 101

- All meditation centers are free of charge. Donations are accepted but not solicited.
- All classes are in Thai only, except for Wat Mahathat.
- Proper dress is usually required, just like when you go to the temple: no shorts, no sleeveless shirts. For overnight stays, it’s also advisable to wear white or at least plain colors.
- Manage your expectations. You’re not going to reach nirvana in one session.

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Directed by Todd Phillips; starring Ed Helms, Bradley Cooper and Zach Galifianakis

“One of the most uninspired and unoriginal sequels you’ll ever see. Or not see, if you’re lucky.” Richard Roeper, richardroeper.com

“Alas, this time there are about three or four mild laughs in the whole picture, and the entire visual aspect of the movie is a botched disappointment.” Mick LaSalle, San Francisco Chronicle

“Somebody must have roofied me. I left The Hangover Part II feeling dazed and abused, wondering how bad things happened to such a good comedy.” Peter Travers, Rolling Stone

“Maybe what goes on in Vegas really should stay in Vegas.” Tom Long, Detroit News

“If you want to avoid plot spoilers for The Hangover Part II, don’t watch The Hangover.” Eric D. Snider, Film.com

“Part II is everything the first movie was, and less. It’s crucially missing laughs and intelligence.” Peter Howell, Toronto Star

”If The Hangover gave you hope for Hollywood­—yup, there is some creativity and boldness left­—The Hangover Part II­­ sinks it. Henry Fitzherbert, Daily Express

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A designer for Mango Mojito, Phatthara gives us his opinion on Thai designs and what we can expect to see on their shelves.

How does being Thai affect your design?
Being Thai has no effect on our designs actually. Our products have distinctive quality and character. We’re asked by our customers often if our products are really Thai made and the answer always makes them go wow.

How do you think Thai fashion customers have changed their perception toward Thai designer brands?
I think it’s getting better than before. There are a lot of Thai designers that are accepted worldwide. Each brand has their own concept and distinctive design, so there is now more customer awareness.

What should we expect from your next collection?
We’re starting our customization service in July, and there will be more professional looks coming up at the end of this year.

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A designer for Kloset, Suphakanya tells us about our increasingly savvy Thai fashion scene and what it means to be a Thai designer.

How does being Thai affect your design?
Each designer is rooted in a different culture. We draw differently, see differently and the time, culture and environment we grow up with affects how we create things. Pink in Thailand is possibly different from pink in Japan. What I mean is the Thainess has already been buried in our mind and soul, so our design obviously reflects our Thainess too.

How do you think Thai fashion customers have changed their perception toward Thai designer brands?
We’ve been receiving much more attention. Most of the brands are becoming more distinctive and fresh ideas seem to pop up every day, not to mention how the cutting quality has been improved. Projects like the Bangkok Fashion Society (BFS) or Bangkok International Fashion Week (BIFW) also help Thai brands gain more awareness and attention from the customers.

What should we expect from your autumn/winter collection?
We went out on the Columbus Cruise for summer, and so we’re continuing our journey to the forest for autumn/winter. The main story will revolve around a caravan, hunting and camping in the wild.

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