Despite the palm oil price crisis, Nuanla-or Sripila, 38, a fried banana street vendor on Convent Road, opposite Saint Joseph Convent, keeps a positive outlook on life and her regular customers on a carb-loaded sugar high with her crispy snacks.

Where are you from originally?
I’m from Roi-ed but I’ve lived in Bangkok for ten years already and consider myself a Bangkokian. I now live with four relatives in a rented house on Soi Phiphat. I work and provide for my father and mother who still live in Roi-ed.

Have you always sold kluay khak (fried bananas)?
No. I sold socks first but the business wasn’t going as well as I would have liked, and I thought food might be more lucrative. So I switched to bananas three years ago. I use one of my friend’s recipes and bought the cart secondhand. I chose selling snacks simply because they’re easy to sell. Almost everybody eats kluay khak. It’s been going quite well actually.

What’s your daily routine?
Every day I wake up at 5am to prepare the ingredients: flour, bananas, sweet potatoes, and taro. I come here at 7am and start cooking. But when school is in session, I have to come here after 8am because there’s traffic from students coming to school, so the police asks us to come later. Almost every day, I’m sold out by around 3-4pm. But if there are not many people on the street, I won’t fry all of my bananas because the remainder can be kept for another day. Every couple of days, I go by tuk-tuk to buy my ingredients at Khlong Toei Market.

How has the palm oil price crisis affected you?
I have had to raise my prices. The price hike has resulted in fewer customers, too. In fact, oil price isn’t the only factor. Coconut, coconut cream, sugar and flour are more expensive as well. I used to sell seven pieces for 10 baht but now it’s four pieces for 10 baht. I know it’s almost 50% less but the ingredient prices have doubled.

Do you have any complaints about Bangkok?
Well, I don’t think there’s anything specific I want to change, but I’m worried that the permission for street stands might be revoked in the near future. We all have our names registered at the district office, yet the authority is pretty strict. The sanitation unit comes quite often to check on the cleanliness and to make sure we use proper containers for our food. The municipal officials come a lot too, but after a recent receipt scandal, I haven’t seen any. Sometimes we have to pay them a little something like a “cleaning fee,” but I don’t want to talk about it. It’s sensitive.

Have you ever dreamed of selling anything or doing something else?
No. I’m satisfied. I’m self-employed. I can work on my own and I enjoy my freedom. Interview by Kanyanun Sanglaw, Nuchanat Prathumsuwan

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No noodle dish is as colorful as the famous yen ta fo with its pinkish-red pickled bean curd. Like many other Thai dishes, it draws inspiration from China and can be found served in roadside stalls and small shops and restaurants throughout Bangkok. Here are our five favorite places to enjoy this distinctive dish.

WAT KHAEK

8 Pan Rd., Silom Rd., 02-236-4393. Open Mon-Sat 10am-4pm
Stroll past Wat Kaek (Sri Mahamariamman Temple) and its marigold garland stalls and you will find an old restaurant on Pan Rd., named simply Yen Ta Fo Wat Kaek. The shop looks charming, with its wooden tables and chairs just begging you take a seat. Their yen ta fo (B30-40) is simply delicious, so there’s no need for extra seasoning. The noodles and the squid are soft and tender. Even the swamp cabbage is just the right consistency. Other items worth trying are the well-portioned meatballs and fried tofu. They also sell stewed pork knuckle with rice (B30-40), fermented rice flour noodles with chicken curry and nam-yaa, salad kaek and spring rolls (B25 each).

Yen Ta Fo JC

Sala Daeng Soi 2, behind Silom Complex, 081-919-1233 or 081-814-9547. Open Mon-Sat 6-9:20am, 10am-1:30pm
A landmark for St. Joseph Convent students and office types alike, Yen Ta Fo JC, located behind Central Silom Complex, serves Silom’s most demanding yen ta fo lovers. Ignore the cook rudely belting out orders to the staff, the queue for a table and the parking lot backdrop, and slurp up some amazing crispy squid in a slightly spicy broth. This shop is strictly dedicated to yen ta fo, but you do have the option of choosing your noodles. If you think you might be hungry even after your first bowl (B40-45), make sure to order two at the same time, as the wait time here is quite long. Affordable prices and fantastic noodles make it worth it.

Ton Yen Ta Fo Kung Tod

89/3 Lad Phrao Soi 71, 081-3157-311. Open daily 8:30am-4:30pm. Closed every 2nd and 4nd Wednesday of the month
Already on its second generation of ownership, this heritage yen ta fo shop has been serving Lad Phrao’s residents for nine years. The owner runs a tight ship and all the ingredients are laid out systematically for diners to view, as their bowls are prepared. This may be the most tidy noodle kitchen we’ve ever seen. The yen ta fo is served with crispy fried shrimp and toasted taro (B35-40), a yummy combination you won’t find anywhere else.

Zaew

Between Sukhumvit 55-57, BTS Thong Lo, 02-391-0043. Open daily 7am-4pm
Walking towards Soi Thong Lor from the BTS station, you’ll spot this reputable and pocket-friendly establishment. This shop isn’t the best yen ta fo we’ve had, but it sure doesn’t skimp on the ingredients. You’ll receive more than a fair share of vegetables, chunky fish balls and fried tofu in every bowl. Prices start from B40 to 50. The friendly owner proudly claims that he has been running this same shop for over ten years and the friendly service makes up for the slightly average taste.

Yen Ta Fo Pa Sena

Entrance of Soi Senaniwej 105, Senanikhom Rd., 084-6233-330. Open daily 8am-4pm
Positioned at the mouth of Soi Senaniwej 105, this shop has been a hit for over a decade. The décor is barebones as can be, but what makes it unique is the special daily fresh homemade orange sticky yen ta fo sauce served with their signature dish. They not only serve original yen ta fo, but also yen ta fo tom yam manow, which is a bit more tart and spicy thanks to the lemony tom yam flavor. Priced B30-40, the dishes can be complemented by snacking on the delicious fried shrimp balls delivered daily by the owner’s relative. By Rattikarn Suwithayaphan, Nuchanat Prathumsuwan and Sritala Dhanasarnsombut
 

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Kritin Jirapornprapa, 35, communication executive

I got attacked by a group of men on Silom. I was leaving a club around 4am. One man charged me from the back and tried to drag me to his friends. Fortunately I was able to escape and jump into a cab. That spot is too dark and there’s no CCTV.

Pavaphon Supanantananont, 24, columnist

I was walking along Wireless Rd. when a motorcycle traveling quite fast raced past me and almost hit me. About 10 feet away he stopped and shot me back this evil look as if it was all my fault. Sidewalks are for pedestrians!

Wipawee Techawanichkul, 18, student

There is one spot on the sidewalk in Wongwian Yai area where the blocks aren’t attached to the ground. Almost every time it rains and I happen to step on them, the water always splashes up and both of my legs get soaked with that dirty water.

Pitak Sengsai, 34, security guard

I was walking around Victory Monument, talking on my phone, and I walked right into this iron rod that was sticking out from some nearby construction. I was wearing flip-flops and cut myself pretty bad between the toes.

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Top elevated walkways worldwide

+15 Skywalk

Where: Calgary, Albert, Canada
Length: 16km
The world’s largest skywalk network features 59 bridges connecting a myriad of buildings in only 64 blocks. The skywalk is elevated 15 feet from the ground, hence the name “+15”

Minneapolis Skywalk System

Where: Minnesota, USA
Length: 11km
Despite being the second in length, the Minneapolis Skywalk System is the world’s largest continuous elevated walkway. Winters in Minnesota are incredibly harsh, so the skywalk helps keep folks warm on their way to office buildings, stores and banks within 80 blocks connected by this web of climate-controlled walkways.

Saint Paul Skywalk

Where: Minnesota, USA
Length: 8km
Like the Minneapolis Skywalk System, the Saint Paul Skywalk, built in 1967, connects several buildings and stores located in a 30-block area. Part of the skywalk is designed to allow visitors to take in the beautiful sights of Saint Paul.

Des Moines Skywalk

Where: Iowa, USA
Length: 5.6km
Built in the 1980s, the elevated transport network serves people in a controlled 22.5-degree-celsius enclosed system of sky bridges, connecting buildings and department stores spanning 30 blocks.

Mumbai Skywalk

Where: Mumbai, India
Length: 1.3km (1st phase)
Still in the first stage of development, this skywalk system is set to be one of the largest in the world. The focus of this system is to allow users to easily connect to other public transportation within Mumbai like the bus station and taxi stands. It also lets commuters to reach popular shopping destinations.

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Here's what makes an ideal pavement

1. The width should be at least 2.5 meters so that two wheelchairs can pass each other comfortably.

2. The gradient from the sidewalk to road level should be around 5 degrees.

3. Zebra crossings (crosswalks) at all intersections and every 100-120 meters.

4. Walking is entirely at street level: no skywalks or pedestrian bridges.
5.  The Braille block path (for the blind)should be free of obstacles and consistently warn of intersections.

6. Intervals in grates should be under a 1/2 inch and perpendicular to the direction of travel so that wheels on strollers or wheelchairs don’t get jammed in the grates.

7. Street vendors should have their own designated space, leaving the sidewalk to pedestrians.

8. Trees provide shade and process carbon dioxide. Ideally, sidewalks should benefit from some kind of shade, either from trees or awnings.

9. Bicycles lanes should be on the road, not the sidewalk. They should be one meter wide.

10. Surfaces should be smooth and free of any holes likely to make people trip.

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Your bicycle, once built, should be viewed as a piece of fine art. It commands respect and deserves tender love and care. Don’t forget to complete the package by looking good while you’re out cruising around. Below are some of the latest threads and accessories.

1. FARFAST Messenger Bag, B1500. Rollyas, Soi 18, Ramkamhaeng Soi 24, 087-919-7719.
2. Pyramid Fixie T shirt, B490. Err-or Design Store, JJ market, Section 4, Soi 1, 081-554-7288.
3. Lee Macky Jeans, B1,800. 2/F (Atrium), CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-673-1066. BTS Chit Lom.
4. Nike 6.0 Brata, B2,590. VII Athletic club, Siam Square Soi 1, 084-705-7744.

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Our roundup of headphones for every budget.

1. NuForce NE-700M

B2,290, Munkong Gadget
Bullet-like smoky bronze earphones with a built-in microphone and music controller. A great choice to go with a phone loaded with MP3s.

2. Monster, SOLO HD

B10,990, iStudio
The SOLO HD was rated one of the ten Best Headphones of 2010 by DigitalTrends.com. The flexible and well-engineered material allows you to adjust the size and rotate the padding for a comfortable fit.

3. Sennheiser/Adidas PMX680

B2,490, iStudio
Sennheiser joins forces with Adidas to offer sporty types a new series of headphones with a lightweight neckband design that minimizes the chance they’ll fall out. And of course, they’re water-resistant, so even sweaty manly types can use them.

4. Sennheiser MX400

B275, Munkong Gadget
The design is nothing to write home about, but Sennheiser is a 65-year-old German maker of Hi-Fi equipment and they come with a 2-year warranty. Not a bad deal.

5. SkullCandy Lowrider

B1,590, Munkong Gadget
Although Lowriders are slimmer and less obtrusive than other SkullCandy headphones, the heavy bass and bold design should still please teens trying to look tough and unapproachable on the BTS. Comes in ten different colors and designs.

6. Sony, MDR-PQ4/Z: PIIQ

B940, Sony Style
The MDR-PQ4/Z’s clips are meant to save you the trouble of tangled wires when clipped to your clothes and look like earrings when worn. They’re lightweight and comfortable and, best of all, they come in bright, funky colors.

Essentials

Sony Style. 2/F, Siam Paragon, 02-610-9665-6. BTS Siam
iStudio. 2/F, CentralWorld, 02-613-1540-1. BTS Chit Lom
Munkong Gadget. 3/F, Digital Gateway, Siam Square. 02-623-4143. BTS Siam

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Special Festival of Cannes Films at Alliance Francaise
To celebrate the Cannes International Film Festival held in May, the Alliance Francaise puts on this mini-festival of six French movies that have all won awards at the world famous film shindig. The month long event kicks off with Au Cœur du Festival (Apr 20), a documentary that takes a backstage look at the premiere movie event held in the southern French resort town. That’s followed by the romantic drama Cyrano de Bergerac (Apr 27) featuring Gerard Depardieu as Cyrano, a man whose big nose forces him to turn to poetry to woo the beautiful Roxanne. Next up is Flandres (May 4) which follows a young man going off to war. Then it’s Van Gogh (May 11), a biopic of the famous painter. Clean (May 18) offers a change of pace with its tale about the girlfriend of a decadent rock star trying to start her life over after his sudden death. The mini-season comes to a close with Ridicule (May 25), a comedic take on the fantastical court of Louis XVI at Versailles during the 18th century. Screenings every Wednesday at 7.30pm. Free admission.

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