Judging from recent events like Pattaya ZoomOut Festival (a sad rip-off of Singapore’s ZoukOut sponsored by the government’s “creative” economy scheme) and Culture ONE (which seems to have lost its fizz and way this year), DJ nights are gasping for their last breath in our nightlife landscape. Even DJ-centric venues like Q Bar and Bed Supperclub are thinking out of the box: Q Bar is now embracing the wine trend, Bed Supperclub recently brought in Kelis (American R&B diva nominated for two Grammy Awards). But if inter turntablists don’t get us out of the house on a Friday night anymore, what does? The answer: a more diversified Bangkok nightlife. Here, we give you 25 cool alternatives—sans DJs—for when the sun goes down.
1. Tequila and Egg Whites
We’ve told you once, we’ve told you a hundred times: do your cocktail drinking at Hyde & Seek (65/1 Athenee Residence, Soi Ruamrudee, Wireless Rd., 02-168-5152. Open daily, 11am-1am. www.hydeandseek.com) and WTF (see #4). Our editor’s pick, though, is the Bun Bang Fai (B190) at Soul Food Mahanakorn (56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 085-904-2691. Open daily 5:30pm-12:30am. www.soulfoodmahanakorn.com. BTS Thong Lo). Just like its namesake, this drink takes off smoothly before exploding into little fireworks right in your mouth, thanks to its potent tequila, lime and chilli combo, offset by voluptuous almond syrup and a couple teaspoons of egg white for froth (relax, you can’t really taste it).
2. Wine Everywhere
From Wine Pub to Wine Connection, it’s been obvious that wine is now the people’s choice. And finally, Soi 11 is taking an interest, too. Q Bar (34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-252-3274. Open daily 9pm-3am.www.qbarbangkok.com) just rolled out its own wine nights on Mon and Tue where B800 gets you nonstop refills from 9pm-12am.
3. Khon in Bed
In case you haven’t heard, khon is hot. So hot that it’s now on show at Bed Supperclub (26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537. Open daily 7:30pm-1am.www.bedsupperclub.com), thanks to choreographer Jitti Chompee who puts a contemporary twist on Thailand’s highest form of performing art. Where else can you see khon set to tango music? The Invisible World is on every night except Mondays, starting from 7:30pm, through Mar 31, 2011. Reservations recommended.
4. Shall I compare thee to a summer’s day?
Although it’s been around for several years, in several locations including About Café and the Goethe Institute, Bangkok Poetry Night has just been reincarnated after a long hiatus, this time with a new host, Colin Cheney, and a new location, hipster mecca WTF (7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-626-6246. www.wtfbangkok.com. BTS Thong Lo. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am, gallery 3pm-10pm). The rules are different too: it’s not strictly poetry; it can be an excerpt from your novel, your comic or even a short film. And it can be in Thai, too. The vibe is cozy and welcoming, and there are even speakers in the front alleyway if you want some shoulder room while you listen to the prose. Check their blog (www.bangkokpoetry.blogspot.com) for their next event. Sign up to read at [email protected]—or just come for the booze.
5. Dancing Lesbians
The monthly Bangkok Lesbian party may have been around for a while, but more recent is its dancey counterpart, Vibe, which is a great alternative to the usual strictly tom and dee scene. The venue is Det-5 (Sukhumvit Soi 8). There will be pool, foosball, cocktails, a DJ and, of course, dancing lesbians. Sorry, no gents. For more details, visit their Facebook page at www.facebook.com/vibe.productions.
6. Wh Ales You?
The beer options available in this city have definitely improved lately—especially if you’re into the fruity, wheaty options from Belgium and Germany, or creamy treats from the Emerald Isle. But for beer fans one thing that’s been missing is a classic English ale. Thankfully that’s all changed with the arrival of London Pride, a well-known British beer made by the 150-year-old Fuller’s Brewery in Chiswick, southwest London. Less creamy, with a rich, earthy, caramel flavor it certainly makes a good introduction to the complex world of ales and bitters. Try a 500ml bottle of London Pride for B200 at Crossbar Sports Pub (Crossbar Sports Pub. Soi 23, Sukhumvit Road, 02-664-3399. Open daily 11am-late. www.thecrossbarbangkok.com). The landlord tells us there are plans to make Pride available on tap soon and that we could also be seeing Fuller’s fuller-flavored Porter Ale in around six weeks, once labeling issues have been sorted out.
7. Performance Anxiety
Hosted by the Rob Project (DJs Saint Vincent and Stewart), Bed Supperclub’s latest Monday night theme boasts “a new music and social experience.” There’s a Gene Kassidit lookalike, Miss Vee Art, putting together some edgy and flamboyant performance art events. Bed Supperclub. 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537. Open daily 7:30-1am. www.bedsupperclub.com
8. Royal Camp Avenue
RCA has recently gone all Brokeback Mountain with the additions of two gay clubs SanFran Disc Go and Castro (RCA Zone B, Rama 9 Rd., 085-161-3386. Open daily 7pm-late.www.castrobangkok.com). Located adjacent to one another, the two venues feature all the essentials: diva hits, coyote boys, cabaret shows and raised platforms for K-pop choreographies rehearsed for hours in front of the mirror.
SanFran Disc Go is now closed*
9. Really Good Bands
It’s kind of grungy but we still love Cosmic Cafe ( RCA Block C, Rama 9 Rd., 081-304-6907 Open daily 7:30pm-2am) for its unerring commitment to live music. A commitment that it carries out every day of the week, with nights dedicated to everything from ska punk to electro. We also love the regular line up of bands (including our current faves, The Jukks) and the sheer diversity of their nights, from hipster heartthrob Maft Sai to avante garde Japanese progressive rock.
10. Indie Nights
And while we’re still in RCA, head down to the uber indie Nospace Gallery (21/108, RCA Block D, 084-134-1184. www.nospacebkk.com. Open for exhibitions on Wed-Sun 11am-7pm, the bar is open Wed-Sun 11-1am) for some aural and visual treats. Known for staging cutting-edge exhibitions (check out their latest show More or Less Queer, page 33). The highlight here, however, is not the art, but rather an intimate bar this place morphs into once the sun’s dropped below the horizon. Want more indie? Check out our Top 5 Club Nights this page.
11. The Lao Pun Party
Any self-respecting shopaholic would know that every Sat, from 5pm onwards, the open space in front of the MRT Ladprao station morphs into a makeshift night market with countless stalls selling all things cool and vintage. But shopping aside, the Ratchada Night Market (Ratchada-Ladprao intersection. MRT Ladprao. Open Sat 6pm-midnight) also doubles as a laid-back hangout where street food and lao pan (alcoholic smoothies) come in dazzling variety. Grab a Kiwi Frozen (B120), plonk down on a plastic chair and watch the world go by.
12. The Witching Hour
A haunted-house themed community mall in Ratchada is a pretty unlikely spot to spend the night. But stumbling around Mansion 7’s haunted house (244/7 Ratchadaphisek Soi 14, Ratchadaphisek Rd., 02-692-6311. MTR Huay Kwang. www.themansion7.com) after a few drinks is about the funinest and scariest time we’ve had in a long time. It’s also a great way to get the heart pumping before a night on the town. Some free advice: it’s getting popular so book your place early if you can (B180 per person), don’t get too drunk or they won’t let you in and please try not to abuse the ghosts. As for the drinking, we’re quite partial to Cocktail’s lofty industrial decor (a kind of scrubbed-up Iron Fairies), juggling barmen, iPad cocktail menu and funky 80s playlist. Cocktail (Mansion 7, 02-275-0779. Open daily noon-midnight).
13. Forget Asahi
While others boast their Belgian brews, Pint Beer Park (Park Lane Ekamai, 18 Ekamai Rd., 02-382-0071. Open daily 11am-midnight) shifts its focus to Japanese brands like Sapporo and Yebisu. Kampai!
14. House Parties
You know you’re getting old when you think the music is too loud and you can’t hear what the other person is saying. Fortunately, Bangkok’s always had some nice old houses converted into bars to kick back, eat and do some serious drinking on the side. Our favorite ones right now are 36-24-36 (23 Sukhumvit 36 Soi 2 (Napha Sub), 02-661-5636. Open daily 6pm-2am. www.362436kitchenbar.com) or the achingly hip and freshly opened Salt (Ari Soi 4, 02-619-6886. Open Wed-Sun 6pm-midnight; Mon 6pm-midnight). At last, a chance to discuss the upcoming Hangover 2 and whether Boardwalk Empire is really worth all the hype.
15. Monopolistic Tendencies
Board games are not just for kids. With a little creativity, they can become an integral part of your next house party, if you get our drift. Polar Board Games & Cafe (Room K4109, Crystal Design Center Phase II, Praditanootham Rd., 083-133-0743. Open daily 11am-10pm) stocks an exciting array of board games ranging from the good ol’ Monopoly to the potentially kinky limbs-entwining Twister (B1,000-2,500).
16. Micro is Big
Est. 33 (Bldg. E, Crystal Design Center, 1420/1 Praditmanoontham Rd. 02-102-2096. www.est-33.com. Open Mon-Fri 4:30pm-12:30am, Sat-Sun 11:30-12:30am) is what you get when you combine an old-school label like Singha with the forward-thinking brains of the folks behind Minibar Royale. This microbrewery is ultra chic and serves up tasty food to go with some interesting, freshly-brewed beers. The place also doubles as a mini beer museum where you can hug the glass tanks and watch your beer brew right in front of you. Est. 33 Shandy (B150) and Fire Drop (B180) are the two big sellers.
17. Cheap, Arty Fridays
An expat-friendly art space on Sukhumvit Soi 31, Attic Studios (24/1 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 083-301-1314. www.attic-studios.com) also hosts First Fridays on, you guessed it, the first Friday of every month, starting at 7:30pm. The evening functions as a sort of open studio for a couple of artists who work at Attic Studios, so you get to see (and potentially buy) some art. A tiny little bar doles out wine and giant very cheap gin and tonics (B120), and sometimes there’s an impromptu art class on the second floor (don’t go if nudity offends you). So grab a drink and make an investment in some yet-to-be-famous artists.
18. Karaoke Den
Call us lame, but we think karaoke is fun—especially when it comes with themed rooms. Packing in aspiring singers every night, YES! R&B (Arena 10, Thong Lor Soi 10, 02-675-4224. www.yesrandb.com. Open daily 11am-1am) features a series of rooms decked out in offbeat themes like win motorsai (motorbike taxi stand), likay theater and tour bus. Room rates start from B400. And thanks to its location right smack in the club-infested Arena 10, extending your night out is a breezy affair.
19. Cricket Crazy
We admit that most of you don’t actually like cricket, but we do and at the moment we’re enjoying wall to wall World Cup action live from India, Sri Lanka and Pakistan. The tournament runs until April which means you’ve got a least a month to tap up your Indian friend for an explanation of the rules. Then head to the nearest bar showing the game. Indus is obviously an atmospheric bet to sink a beer or ten while spending the day watching a game. Indus (71, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-4900. www.indusbangkok.com. Open Mon-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm and 6pm-midnight).
20. Decent Music on Thong lor
The thought of live music on Thong Lor used to fill us with dread: the same old Thai pop and inter classics played by bored bands to bored crowds. No more though with the arrival of Fat Gut’z (1/F, Grass Thonglor, 264 Thong Lor 12, 02-714-9832. Open daily 6pm-2am) where you can see one of the funkiest old school skiffle bands in town covering everything from boogie woogie to blues to a spot of Elvis. On a busy night, which is a regular occurrence at this tiny venue, the place is seriously jumping thanks to the driving double bass and the enthusiastic antics of the feisty lead singer. Chuck in some fish and chips and potent cocktails and you got a jumpin’ reason for leaving home.
21. Flight of the boozes
Hyde and Seek (65/1 Athenee Residence, Soi Ruam Rudi, 02-168-5152. Open daily 11am-1am) is the go-to place for inventive and delicious (if pricey) cocktails. But these boys are so serious about their booze, they even do month-long promotions of specific liquors, which include special dinners with cocktail pairings as well as booze flights from different vintages and geographical areas. A few months ago it was rum, then it was whiskey. As they’re currently expanding their drink menu, this month’s theme could be tequila but is still being decided. Do check for updates at www.hydeandseek.com.
22. Acting on a whim
What better way to truly appreciate performing arts than when you’re a little tipsy? Squeeze in some high culture and booze at Patravadi Theater (69/1, Soi Wat Rakang, Arun Amarin Rd., 02-412-7287. www.patravaditheater.com), where drinks (mostly beers) are usually available before the show. In the mood for a glass of vino? Head to the nearby restaurant-slash-gallery Club Arts & Gallery (formerly Studio 9, 69/1 Arun Amarin Soi 18 (Wat Rakhang Khositaram), 02-866-2143. Open Tue-Sun 10:30am-10pm) for classic Thai fare coupled with wines and cocktails and poissibly a river view.
23. Fancy thai wine
Khao Yai winemakers Village Farm’s Chateau des Brumes is arguably one of the fancier wines made in Thailand. Unfortunately, there’s a limited number of places to enjoy one. The small-plates bistro Serenade (Grass Thong Lor, 264 Thong Lor Soi 12, 02-713-8409) carries several bottles from the label, including their 2007 Shiraz for B1,400 a bottle and their premium range 2004 Prestige Night Harvest for B2,400 a bottle. The Shiraz is cut with 4% Cabernet Sauvignon and are vinified in an Old World style. For newbies, the entry-level Village Cellar Shiraz and Chenin Blanc go for B180 a glass.
24. Cheapo vino
The first week of every month, usually a Wed, is wine-tasting night at Wine Cellar (G/F, S31, 541 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-662-1355). Run by a wholesaler who also supplies hotels and restaurants, the tastings here are technically meant for professionals who want to stock their establishments. But for B100, anyone can turn up and try these mid- to high- quality wines, along with free cheese and cold cuts. Visit their site, www.winecellarbkk.com, for details on upcoming tastings.
25. Go Green
Skip all the nonsense and go straight to the hard stuff. Yes, we’re talking about the infamous anise-flavoured spirit absinthe. And believe us, no other joints in town offer as many varieties as Thong Lor’s Dickensian bar/factory Iron Fairies (394 Thong Lor, 084-425-8080. Open Mon-Sat 8pm-2am). From the Absinthe Flying Potion Cocktails menu, hit it up straight with the Legendary Absinthe. Got a bit of time to waste? Opt for the less wicked variant Naughty Blue Dust. Besides the drinks, this gritty hole-in-the-wall also does a mean burger with juicy Aussie patty and the works.
Want more? Check out our Bangkok's top 5 club nights and Bangkok's top 5 late night eats.
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Black Rabbit
The look: A hazy, dark shade of brown with a luscious head which laces the glass all the way to the last drop.
The smell: A spiciness that Belgian drinkers will find invitingly familiar.
The sip: Very hoppy. It says “clove and banana notes” on the tap label, and they aren’t lying. This is a robust beer with substance when it comes to mouthfeel and makes for surprisingly easy drinking given its 7% ABV.
The damage: $7-14 for a stem glass (375ml), $8-17 for a pint (500ml).
Fruitbrewz (Apple and Cranberry)
The look: Gold, with a slight tinge of pink.
The smell: Exactly like a corner shop apple candy.
The sip: Apple juice sweetness with a tart and sour finish when the cranberry kicks in. The latest incarnation of Fruitbrewz may be the most complex yet, but we miss the dragonfruit version.
The damage: $7-14 for a stem glass (375ml), $8-17 for a pint (500ml).
Mad Bee Ale
The look: Like honey, but a lot less viscous of course.
The smell: The wildflower honey hits you right off the bat.
The sip: Despite the strong aroma from the honey used in the brewing process, its sweetness is subtle, making it the perfect afternoon session beer. A bit of caution might be required though—its lightness defies its 6% ABV.
The damage: $6-12 for a thirty (300ml), $7-16 for a pint (500ml).
Brewerkz Riverside Point, #01-05/06 Riverside Point, 30 Merchant Rd., 6438-7438.
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If you’re looking to cook up your next culinary masterpiece, chances are you’re missing some key gourmet ingredients. With newbie stores such as Cut The Mustard popping up around town, we round up a diverse range of gourmet destinations that likely have what you need.
#01-70 Chip Bee Gardens, Blk. 43 Jalan Merah Saga, 6472-0870. With an excellent assortment of organic products, this is the place to go to for everything from teas to spreads and dried fruits. On the pasta front, they stock wholewheat penne rigate ($5.90), lemon myrtle tubes ($8.30) and wattleseed spelt tubes ($8.90). Buckwheat or multi-grain pancake and waffle mix and cinnamon, vanilla or chocolate crepe mix (all $8.50) are perfect for conjuring yummy breakfasts within minutes. Add some homemade almond nut butter, citrus and passion fruit marmalade (both $14.80) or lime and blueberry conserve ($16.80) while you’re at it.
1 Greendale Ave., Greenwood, 6466-9436.
One of the newest kids on the block (they’re less than three weeks old), this brainchild of husband-and-wife team Gerald Tan and Hui Chern stocks products personally sourced from abroad. Earthy tones greet you as you step in, along with wooden shelves busting with their eclectic range of products, including artisan flour, spreads, edible flowers and fruit soups. They also carry Hawaiian black lava salt ($11.50) and Cyprus salt flakes ($20.90) as well as their renowned Fever-Tree range of sodas and cocktail mixers ($2.90 per bottle).
615 Bukit Timah Rd., 6466-4044.
If you’re looking for German (and now Dutch) products, this is the place to hit. One of the hottest items here is the quark cheese, which serves well as a spread and as the main ingredient in desserts such as German cheesecake. There are four types of quark cheese ($3.90–$4.95) available; we suggest herb and paprika. They also fly yogurts and cheeses in weekly. For those with a sweet tooth, stroopwafels ($7.30) go wonderfully with German-made Nutella ($8.55), said to be much creamier and more spreadable than what we’re used to.
#01‑12 Blk. 9 Dempsey Hill, Dempsey Rd., 6476‑1512.
Cheese heads should perk up at the mention of Jones the Grocer. Around 80 types of artisan cheeses from around the world are available in their special cheese room, and you can sample before you buy. Truffle cheeses like Brie Royal ($15 per 100g) and Brillat Savarin ($17 per 100g) are real stand-outs. Their selection of blue cheese ranges from organic Roqueforte to Colsten Basset Stilton and a creamy St Agur ($16.60; $9.90; $12.90 per 100g). Also give their hard and semi-hard cheese varieties a shot; especially recommended is the Ossau Iraty ($12.20 per 100g), a superb semi-hard French goat’s cheese.
#02-K2, Tanglin Mall, 6887-3842.
Focusing on olive oil with prices ranging from $17-118 for different bottle sizes, Little Provence Store consider their organic wine and fruit vinegar and their olive oil selection the bestsellers in their store. Tapenades of more than 20 varieties are sold—we especially approve of their Tapenade Noire au Basilic de Provence and Verte aux Tomate Sechee ($9.90 for the small jar, $18.90 for the large jar). Olive oil in spray cans (200ml), to allow for more controlled diffusion, is also stocked here.
#01-21/23/27 Park House, 21 Orchard Blvd., 6304-1338.
One of the largest organic food stores in town, offering a diverse assortment of fresh fruits and vegetables, dairy products and deli meat. You can shop with ease knowing that you’re getting only what’s good for you. Enjoy some hormone-free chicken breast ($37.90), New Zealand eggs ($9.95) and a Farm Box full of fresh fruit and vegetables (from $70), delivered right to your doorstep.
#01-50 Chip Bee Gardens, Blk. 44 Jalan Merah Saga, 6472-0073.
Think choice cuts of beef, lamb, pork and chicken, with ready-to-cook options including Beef Wellington ($39.90) and Chicken Cordon Bleu ($24.75). Don’t pass on their honey, mint and rosemary lamb sausages ($14.75) or beef and Guinness Stout ($15.75) ones. Home delivery is also available.
#04-25 ION Orchard, 2 Orchard Turn, 6509-8409.
Truly a treasure trove for oils, vinegars and liqueurs. Beer, pear and quince are some of the vinegar flavors they stock while oils run the gamut from avocado to cedar nut to basil. Pair the extra virgin olive oil Santini from Tuscany ($9.10) with their award-winning 25-year-old Diamond Quality balsamic vinegar ($32.80), or try their fantastic mango ($8.60) and star apple ($11.40) vinegars
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The buzz: Pilates is widely known to alleviate aches and pains but the Pilates Fitness Studio is among the first in Singapore to customize specific fitness programs.
The vibe: This clean, no-frills space provides little distraction from your workout— always a good thing. There are no gimmicks here—just rows of mats and Reformers set against a mirrored backdrop. It’s all a Pilates studio should be.
The goods: If your main concern is weight loss, you’ll be doing more high intensity reps in each session, focusing on core strengthening and improving your posture. Representative Candice Chin claims you’ll be able to see marked changes especially around the belly, butt and thighs after the first few sessions. There are also programs for golfers and runners, focusing on enhancing the body’s mechanics to increase strength and flexibility, and reduce the risk of common sports-related injuries. And then there’s the Pilates Jumpboard class, an advanced workout session for hardcore Energizer bunnies. A 55-minute Pilates Junkie class (group classes on the Reformer) costs only $13.50—among the cheapest in town.
Why you’ll be back: You don’t want to pay for a one-on-one but you don’t want to do the reps everyone else is doing either. Here, you can work out according to an individual program while enjoying the high level of motivation a group fitness session offers. It’s a win-win situation.
434 Telok Blangah Rd., 9184-7622, www.singaporepilatesfitness.com. No fixed opening hours, appointment-based.
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One of the biggest bugbears in online shopping is the long, agonizing wait. You know, the one after you press the “Buy“ button and wait two weeks to get your hands on that dress you just bought—simply because that online store is based overseas. Thankfully, a number of fashionably enterprising locals have taken it upon themselves to make the whole thing easier, with some even promising next day delivery—saving you time and money. “It removes the up-front cost of retailing and ultimately we are able to offer that dress to our customer at a more reasonable price,” says Jacqueline Tan of Starlet Dresses. Some of these websites even stock international labels such as the high-fashion Oscar de la Renta, New York-based Faviana and British accessory brand Fleet Ilya, as well as select furniture and art.
Here are four of our favorites:
Doorstep Luxury
www.doorstepluxury.com
What: An afternoon tête-à-tête between friends and former classmates Miranda Lindsay-Fynn and Au Da Yu resulted in them launching a virtual store of personally picked luxury items. Doorstep Luxury is Asia’s premier online retailer of cult designer handbags, jewelry and accessories, and its cache of goods comes straight from where it matters most: The fashion capitals.
“We source our merchandise from Fashion Weeks in London, New York and Paris. We have a team in Europe who keeps us updated on the latest hot young designers to check out and the trends they see developing for the coming seasons. I personally meet with all the designers at Fashion Week and put together a collection with their input,” says Lindsay-Flynn.
The goods: Expect labels and designers such as Ragazze Ornamentali for their sublimely beautiful handbags ($850 upwards), British accessory label Ela Stone, cult British leather accessory designer Fleet Ilya, who specializes in beautifully
structured bags and corset-belts, and Misela, a Turkish-born New Yorker who makes handbags for the clued-in fashionista ($550 upwards).
Not In The Malls
www.notinthemalls.com
What: If you think online stores are only good for a particular type of product, think again. Not In The Malls, the brainchild of Michelle O’Neill and Krista Moore, aims to bring the experience of shopping in the malls into your home. This online marketplace is a platform for sellers of unique products hand-picked by the pair. “We realized that we could provide these small businesses with an alternative avenue to sell their gorgeous creations to more people like us while still keeping their mystery and uniqueness,” says Moore. Take note though, as there is no central warehouse and everything you purchase comes straight from the seller, there might be an additional delivery charge to your order.
The goods: The website hosts more than 80 independent sellers ranging from art from acclaimed artist Diana Francis and handmade cars from scrap metal wire and tin cans by Africars, to the dark gray minimalist jewelry collection from Vanessa Ward and handmade children’s clothes by Chandamama and Little Red Wagon. $79 upwards for fashion accessories, $85 upwards for bags and $800 upwards for art pieces.
Starlet Dresses
www.starletdresses.com
What: Any fashionista worth their weight in wool will agree on one thing: Quality, red-carpet-ready dresses cost a bomb. But point your mouse to www.starletdresses.com, and
you’ll find stylish, high-fashion cocktail dresses and elegant evening gowns at affordable prices. You can also snag labels from New York designers such as Flip and Faviana, previously available only in the US. “We set out to serve the mid-tier evening gown/cocktail dresses segment in Singapore who find it hard to find beautiful off-the-rack gowns in the local market that aren’t overpriced,” says owner Jacqueline Tan.
The goods: From beautiful beaded chiffon dresses to luscious off-shoulder satin numbers, Starlet Dresses makes you look like a star without busting your bank account. $220 upwards for cocktail dresses and $390 upwards for evening gowns.
Tracyeinny
www.tracyeinny.com.sg
What: This is the only fashion e-tailer with its own bus ad (you might have spotted a bright red bus with www.traceyinny.com.sg emblazoned on it). Started in 2007 by Pamela Goi and Jeannie Pang as an online blogshop, Tracyeinny is now one of our leading independent online fashion retailers. Last year, Pang and Goi opened Tracyeinny’s first retail store, which has since moved from Pearl’s Hill Terrace to Nankin Row in China Square Central.
The goods: Look out for easy-to-wear casual and dressier pieces such as printed blouses, shift dresses, jumpsuits and outerwear at purse-friendly prices (starting from as low as $24)
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Blessed with swells 365 days a year, Bali is an amateur surfer’s dream.Technically, Nov-Apr is off-season, but we’ve been there in December and had a great time. While you can just rent a boogie board and wing it on your own, a few hours with an instructor can save you a lot of frustration.
Pick the Right Beach
Surf schools are abundant on the island, ranging from those run by iconic surf labels like Quiksilver to local family-run operations. Try to steer clear of schools in Kuta Beach, though, as the waves there can be a little too rough for beginners—not to mention the crowds of rowdy tourists. Head instead to the more forgiving and more mellow Legian Beach, also known as Double Six, where well-established schools by Quiksilver and Rip Curl are located.
What Your Money Gets You
If you’re on a budget, opt for locally operated schools like Double D and Odyssey Surf School (see Essentials). Surf brand giants like Quiksilver Surf School offers a 2.5-hour lesson at US$39 (B1,200), though it’s cheaper to buy a package (US$100 for 7.5 hours over the course of three days). Rip Curl School of Surf, on the other hand, charges almost double the price (starting from B2,250), but you do get a well-equipped facility and nice little perks like a transfer to surf at a less crowded spot, a towel and even some sunscreen. Most places will also provide you with a rashguard, but make sure to wear board shorts long enough to cover the knees. Trust us, you want to keep nasty board rash to a minimum.
Just One More Wave, Dude
Regardless of where you’re enrolled, the first lesson usually covers basics like ocean safety, surfboard anatomy, how to lie down and how to pop up on the board. After practicing on the beach, you’ll be paired with a sturdy beginner’s board—with a soft top—and then led into the ocean where the fun really begins. Standing up may be the Holy Grail for novices, but the real challenge, as you’ll soon discover, is trying to brave the oncoming breaking waves with a cumbersome 9-foot board beside you. And most of the time, you’ll be riding mushy whitewater straight back to the beach. As tedious as it may seem, once you’ve ridden one wave all the way through, the sensation is unbeatable. Ask any surfer about the infamous “just one more wave” syndrome.
Like any other sport, surfing takes a lot of practice. Wipeouts are inevitable, and you simply won’t learn without inhaling and swallowing some saltwater in the process. If you just want to have fun, one lesson should give you enough basics to catch a few waves. Those aspiring to master fancy moves like duck diving and bottom turning are best off taking a continuous course. Make sure to allow yourself at least one rest day after a lesson, though, because as effortless as it looks, surfing is a very intense workout, using muscles you never knew you had.
Surfing in Thailand
While it’s pretty much flat half the time, Phuket turns into a temporary surfers’ playground during the monsoon season (May-Oct). Surin, Kamala and Kata are all rideable, but Kalim and Nai Harn are the top spots. Beginners should look for a school at Kata, where rides are fairly short. Andaman Sea Surf (Taweewong Rd., Patong Beach. www.andamanseasurf.com. Contact Day at 089-9732161 or [email protected]) offers a one-on-one lesson (3 hours/day or 1 hour/3 days) for B2,800, or, if you're hoping to turn pro, go for the one-week package (B8,150), which includes lessons, room and airport transfer.
SURG SCHOOLS
Odyssey. Jl Pantai Kuta. Kuta. www.odysseysurfschool.com
Quiksilver Surf School. Jl. Pantai Legian Kaja (next to Jayakarta Hotel), +62 361 731 078. www.quiksilversurfschoolbali.com
Rip Curl School of Surf. Jl. Arjuna, Kuta, +62 361 735 858. www.ripcurlschoolofsurf.com
Double D. Double Six Street, Seminyak Beach. www.surfschoolbali.com
GETTING THERE
Air Asia (www.airasia.com) flies to Bali daily. Rates start from B1,990 one-way.
A roundtripticket from THAI Airways (www.thaiairways.com) is from B18,454.
VISA
No visa required for Thai nationals. Some 30 countries are eligible for a visa on arrival (US$25) that can be purchased at the airport immigration counter. Details at www.indo.com/tplan/visa.html
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Suan Luang and Sam Yam Markets have now been razed to the ground, as part of Chula’s development plans. Long-time food vendors have lost their original spots and, now that parking has gone, a good chunk of clientele. Still, many famous vendors are persevering, and here we round up some long-time favorites.
Chula Soi 20, Suang Luang Market. Open daily 3-11pm, 081-899-2173
Just across the street from the demolished market, Pheng Pochana has long been famed for its gway tiew khua kai, which they do with several variations ranging from just chicken and pickled squid (B30) to taro (B40). They have the technique of dry-frying the noodles and lightly charring them down to an exact science, plus their pickled squid are chewy without being too chewy and have just the right amount of fishy flavor. We also like their preparation of the egg, which is lightly scrambled and set on top of the noodles, not mixed in. Watch out for the inexplicably mean manager lady, though.
Chula Soi 5, Suan Luang Market, 02-214-0612.
Open daily noon-midnight
Around for several generations, Sing Sem Ee has been the go-to nam khaeng sai (Chinese shaved ice and syrup dessert) place for Chula kids and neighborhood enthusiasts. While the recent changes to the area have meant a slight dip in customers, the place is still full to the brim most nights, necessitating table-sharing. If you’re anything like us, cover your head, duck and run past the bees swarming the dazzling display of over twenty sweet toppings out front to reach the safety of the back room. Here you can enjoy the range of rice flour balls, pickled plums, glass noodles, balls of ice and more. Prices for a bowl range from B20-40.
168, Chula Soi 5, Suan Luang Market, 084-911-8896.
Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm
This famous grilled bread (khanom pang ping) cart had been sat outside Sam Yan until the demolition. Now it has moved across the street, conveniently next to Sing Sem Ee, where it now has to stay open longer to break even, due to the diminished customer base. The shopfront grill operation lures you in with its range of toppings, including more pricey ones like coconut paste (B30) and ice shavings (B30). Most range from B15-18, though, and they also do Thai iced tea and related drinks. If you’re lucky, you might also spot the cute cat in the dining room.
Corner of Chula sois 20 and 5, 089-771-8131.
Open daily 11:30am-11pm
At the corner of the two sois, diagonally across from a bua loy cart and flanked by moo daeng stalls, is a little shophouse that specializes in pad see ew and rad na (B30-40). Not much more to say, except that the special, marinated kiang recipe is delicious, especially the rad na broth which is slightly gelatinous and porky, and that the outdoor seating on the corner gives a really nice, wide angle vantage point for people watching in the evening.
206, Chula Soi 50, 02-215-4354. Open 5am-3:30pm
Many of the food vendors from the now-demolished Sam Yan Market have been moved to this little soi, flanked on both sides by two-story shophouses. This moo daeng (red pork) place proudly says on its sign “the old face of Sam Yan” and dishes up a very generous B30 plate of rice with moo daeng, moo krob (crispy, three-layered pork) and Chinese sausage. Tea and ice are free—that’s old school hospitality.
234, Chula Soi 50, 089-007-4585. Open daily 7am-5:30pm
Further down the street is the new home of a forty-year-old khao man kai (Haianese chicken rice) stall from Sam Yan Market. We like the cute little shophouse with its pale green walls, the long mirror and the odd combination of old wooden booths on one side and metal tables with plastic stools on the other. In addition to khao man kai (B30-40), they also do a mean gway tiew ped (duck noodles, B30-40).
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Sarah Harvey loves painting portraits of people in water. Who would have thought that something so ordinary could be captured so extraordinarily. From the textural detail of every ripple, to the uncanny clarity of the submerged figures, Harvey manages to evoke a sense of comforting retreat while exploring the sexual and fantastical nature of her subject matter. Quiet World exhibits 18 of the award-winning artist’s paintings, which take viewers on a journey through the underwater world and away from the sanctuary of the familiar. At first glance, her works seem filled with soft colors and blurred images, but on closer inspection you might notice the differences between the figures. In Cubist Water, her interests in cubism materialize in a depiction of the face from a multitude of viewpoints. Shattered Triptych focuses on the figure becoming one with its surroundings, with the water marks and the figure appearing to merge into one shape. The closer you are, the more you’ll see. “My Inspiration comes from many places, and often it is my subconscious that tends to pick it up,” she says. “It is a feeling I get when I see something that tells me if that object, view, color or other visual excites me.” Influenced by Francis Bacons’ Carcass and crucifixion paintings and works from Jenny Saville, Harvey invents her own world. “The paintings Ripples of Light and Abyss are much calmer at first look and really concentrate on the beauty of the female form,” she says. “The vulnerability of the girls’ open bodies can be seen by the viewers. But if you read deeper into them, one will begin to question if there are darker sub-tones to the aesthetic beauty seen.” Harvey’s work will be exhibited at Collectors Contemporary, a local art gallery run by Dr. Alvin Koh, who shares similar sentiments to Harvey. “Her paintings are visually arresting, transporting the viewer into her world. The paintings evoke a multitude of emotions that vary from serenity to uneasiness. However, the beauty of each painting is undeniable.” If you haven’t gotten enough of Harvey’s work, expect more from the British artist as she experiments with other elements and techniques. “I have recently become quite interested in video, so perhaps this could be something you might see more of in the future. I am also currently using imagery that I took the last time I was in Singapore of chickens submerged in water and exploring other subjects as well.” Chickens submerged in water. Watch this space.
Quiet World is on Mar 10-Apr 23 at Collectors Contemporary, #01-03 Petro Centre, 5 Jalan Kilang Barat, 6878-0103. Free.
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Widely known as the frontman of highly-acclaimed local rock outfit Electrico, Dave Tan also does a fair share of DJ-ing. Under the guise of Hook, he has been dropping his eclectic selection of disco-infused house, deep house and a touch of rock ’n’ roll whenever the mood hits. Having helmed the decks at KPO, House@Dempsey, Tanjong Beach Club and La Maison, he is currently residing at Singapore’s highest club, Ku Dé Ta. Every Wednesday and Thursday at the club and Friday to Saturday at the Skybar, catch Hook as he drops seminal grooves and old school favorites. “I’ve got A.D.D so you’d be hard pressed to find me playing one genre for a prolonged period of time,” he says. “I love to mix it up anyway and I try to keep an interesting flow and energy going depending on the situation of the room.”
Hook's Top 5 Selections
Depeche Mode “Nothing”
The grooves and arpeggios in this track are so quintessentially Mode and so damn groovy, it has heaps of attitude and flows very nicely into a lot of the dreamwave stuff that I play nowadays.
Hall & Oates “Rich Girl”
White guys with so much soul, this was their first number one hit back in the day and it’s a meaningful, feel good soul-blues popper. I love to end my sets with stuff like this to ease you out of electronica. Like a nice sorbet.
Tears For Fears “Working Hour”
Songwriting at its best. Complex yet simple and very emotive. TFF will always be an inspiration to me.
Sebestien Tellier “La Ritournelle (Jake Bullit Remix)”
A classic funk jazz number with beautiful haunting vocals; perfect for sunsets. However the Jake Bullit remix stuffs it with some major fat groove and rhythm with a dirty modulated funk-filled bassline to boot. It’s a pimp version. Very sweet.
Massive Attack “Unfinished Sympathy (Kamouflage Loves Fred Mix)”
An amazing deep remix of a Massive classic. A nice ride through tribal grooves and funky percussions to an explosion of ambient melodic vocals in true Massive Attack fashion … then back to the beats. Shiok.
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Se7en1nch
Size does matter, and with a name like Se7en1nch, the bar and grub joint wins hand down in the raunchy name department. However, the only kinkiness you’ll find here is pole dancers showing just a bit of flesh. Nothing much to drool at. Founded by Crazy Elephant’s boss Keef Ong, the joint is notorious for their long list of absinthe laced drinks—probably the only thing that’s sizeable.
#01-16 Clarke Quay, 3B River Valley Rd., 6338-8776. Open Fri-Sat 11pm-6am.
Does Your Mother Know?
A “men’s” favorite hangout, the bar's name hints cheekily at undisclosed lifestyle preferences. For eccentric divas, queer folks and just about anyone bent on having a good time, DYMK is the joint of choice. Try their potent house specials like Mommie’s Temper, Mother Knows, Mother Doesn’t Know and Flower Power.
41 Neil Rd., 6224-3965. Open Sun-Thu 7pm-midnight; Fri 7pm-1am; Sat 8pm-2am.
Hookers Bar & Grill
Don’t be deceived by the name; the bar and grill venue is neither run by pimps, nor does it boast a stable of hookers. Though situated in Singapore’s seediest area, Desker Road, the joint is rather cozy with laidback music and unassuming décor, and it serves up a commendable offering of Mexican, Western and African cuisine.
120 Desker Rd., 8111-0883. Open Sun-Wed 3pm-midnight; Thu-Sat 3pm-1am.
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