Saints & Sinners
The fact that the budget for the third installment of the Singapore Biennale is lower, at $6million, than ever before is not a good sign. Yet veteran Matthew Ngui and his crew still promise a great show, despite the lack of any major headliners. We’re certainly hoping they can deliver; and looking at the line-up there’s reason to be cautiously optimistic. Here’s what to look out for, and what you might want to give a miss.
PERSIAN PRINTS
Tala Madani, the feisty young Iranian artist heralded for meshing naive charm and black humor in oil paintings of domineering male figures in works like Diving in Cake, is here to dazzle us with an assorted collection of art works.
LIFE, LESS ORDINARY
Popular urban photographer Beat Streuli unveils Story Lines, a three-channel video installation consisting of portraits of ordinary folks from the streets of Singapore and New York at two venues—NMS and Old Kallang Airport. If the indecipherable art works on show elsewhere make you dizzy, this tongue-in-cheek potraiture will be a welcome reprieve.
NIHILISTS R’US
Copenhagen based arts collective Superflex continue their nihilistic agitprop streak in Flooded McDonalds, a 20-minute apocalypse flick that observes the destruction of a specially built replica of the (in) famous fast-food restaurant including the carcass of Roland McDonald floating in the aftermath.
KARAOKE FAIL
Amping up the aural element is Ang Song Ming, a young Singaporean artist who uses awkward, kitschy elements of music and sound like an all-female a cappella group covering Kraftwerk’s “The Robots.” Be True to Your School, in which former students of Japanese elementary school sing what they recall of their school song, is nausea-inducing, but all the better for it. All in pursuit of breaking down the walls of high art pretension.
THE RADIO STAR
Tune into Rafael Lozano-Hemmer’s Frequency and Volume, an interactive installation that aligns different radio frequencies to the shadows of gallery viewers, straddling the spheres of architecture and performance art.
DRAIN BRAIN
Former national sailor Charles Lim examines the nation’s drainage system in All Lines Flow Out, an invigorating mash of video installation and found art, offering some quirky, personal musings about the island in the process.
MUMMY’S BOY
Looking to do more than just gawk at random exhibits in a gallery? Then Filipino street artist Mark Salvatus’ Wrapped offers the perfect antidote with some participatory art. All you need to do is draw the outline of an object you’re carrying onto the wall and the artist proceeds to fill it in with bandage patterns.
HOME IS WHERE THE ART IS
Food may well be the most democratic domain in our nation. Malaysian multi-disciplinary artist Ise enlightens us with insights into how six anonymous Singapore families buy, cook and eat food, through his installation of six fridges filled with items handpicked by the participants. Expect chilling revelations in Secret Affair.
FISHY BUSINESS
Half fish, half lion. All myth. Acclaimed Japanese provocateur Tatzu Nishi gives our beloved Merlion the quintessential Tatz makeover by building rooms around it. From Apr 4-May 5, residents and tourists alike can soak in the opulence of the Merlion Hotel for just S$150 nett per night for two. All 32 nights sold out within an hour, but the space is open to the public (and especially the kawaii photo brigade), for free, daily through May 15 from 10am to 7pm.
Back to the Drawing Board
It’s not all good stuff at the Biennale. These festival duds had us scratching our heads. Ceal Floyer’s installation piece titled Overhead Projection at Old Kallang Airport illuminates a big fat zilch. A lightbulb on an overhead projector seems more like a cry for help than inspired art. Self-Portrait, Our Landscape is a collection of self-potraits, represented via a distinct landscape or object, done by over 3,000 Singaporean students. To judge by the results, they might want to consider alternative career paths.
Catch these works at the Singapore Biennale 2011 through May 15. For more details, log on to www.singaporebiennale.org.
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Ekkamai Soi 12, 1685. www.sansiri.com
Seven-story office-parking building and 14- and 17-story residential condominium (376 units) project by Sansiri under a “three Cs” concept: complete, convenient, and comfortable. There’s a library in the lobby and the rooms have wide balconies. Starting from B2.6 million for 29-sqm room unit. Expected completion: March 2013.
Between Ekkamai Soi 21 and 23, 02-712-2455. www.upekamai.com
20-themed rooms and 259 units on a 30-story high-rise with sky lounge, swimming pool with pool bar and a sky library. The hallways are designed like lofty galleries and the in-room ceiling heights are up to 2.8-3.3 meters. Starting from B2.3 million for a 30-sqm room unit. Expected completion: June 2013.
Corner of Ekkamai Soi 5, 02-204-0660. www.alcovebangkok.com
23-story condominium completed since Dec 2009, offering a rooftop garden, a jogging track and up to 16-meter wide windows in all units. Starting from B4.3 million for a 32-sqm room unit.
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217 Ekkamai Soi 5, 02-711-6564. Open Mon-Sat 6:30pm-2am
Run by the same people behind Nunglen (see below), this two-story bar will give you more space to dance and a resolutely different playlist of mostly house and hip-hop, with live DJs switching in every two hours. It can be a bit crowded from the Nung Len overspill on Fri-Sat nights, though.
217 Ekkamai Soi 5, 02-711-6564. www.nunglen.net. Open Mon-Sat 6:30pm-2am
While other nightclubs in Thong Lor/Ekkamai come and go, Nunglen remains packed every day, even on the most mundane Monday night. Apart from the live gigs from Thai local bands, they mostly play Thai favorites, switching with some mainstream inter hits like Lady Gaga. All tables are usually taken by 9pm, especially on Fri-Sat, so a booking and early presence is highly recommended. Mixers B60 each, and B50 for a bucket of ice.
3 Ekkamai Soi 10 (Ekamai Shopping Mall), 02-714-3953. Open Mon-Sat 7pm-1am
This tiny bar attracts a crowd of media-industry hipsters with special guest DJs taken from their ranks during the weekends. Expect to rub shoulders with artists from Smallroom or graphic designers from A Day Publishing who’ve just arrived on their fixed gear bicycles—both companies have their offices in the same compound. Despite the hype, this small bar is pretty easy on your pocket (cocktails start at B150, B95-B120 for main dishes), and there’s always Sangsom on hand.
Room 11-12 A, 34 Ekkamai Soi 21, 02-711-5500. Open daily 11-1am
The two-story pub, restaurant and art gallery has a distinct retro vibe. How many places do you know where you can simultaneously play pool, listen to some old tunes and buy a couch? There’s also a good selection of Thai/inter food such as foie gras (B490), or baked snowfish (B450). For cocktails, try the Full Moon Tuba (B190) and get one more free as they’re running the promotion on both cocktails and beers.
11 Ekkamai Soi 6, 084-466-4686. Open daily 5pm-1am
You might get a distinct déjà vu feeling here—think Spring and Summer without the beanbags. This place manages to stand out from the others though, thanks to the sheer size of the outdoor space and the welcoming shade of the garden’s collection of mature trees. On the inside, it has the feel of a bar you might set up at home—albeit a very smart one with a pool table. You’ll hear Thai favorites, bossa nova, and live music from local bands. Thai dishes start from B80, imported draught beers like Hoegarden and Stella (B150-B250), and B860-B1,400 for whiskeys.
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Corner of Ekkamai, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-391-9784. www.banriecoffee.com Open daily 24 hours.
Baan Rie is famous not only for its distinct Thai traditional decor style but also because it’s open 24/7. Playing outside are nostalgic hits, but once inside, you’ll only hear the banter and gossip of office workers and students—the mixed crowd of a true diner. Domestic ingredients are emphasized here, with Thai coffees ranging from a bitter Asia Bork, a soft and sweet Bangkok Bork Blend, and a softly scented Baanrie Bork (from B20-120). There are also ample electrical outlets to satisfy your phone or your computer’s needs although the wifi service is not free (B50/hour).
3 Ekkamai Soi 10 (Ekkamai Shopping Mall), 02-726-9779. Open Mon-Sat 11am-11pm
We’re reminded of the bookish cafes in Chiang Mai or Pai with the books sitting pretty on their white shelves, ranging from Thai fiction to travel journals and philosophy. Apart from that, the café serves basic Thai dishes (B60-100), freshly brewed coffee (B65), and some homemade ice cream made from soy milk (B39). There’s also live music on random Fridays and the place is usually packed in the afternoon. Free wifi.
584 Ekkamai Soi 26, 080-621-8000. Open daily 8am-6pm
The former Groove Room has been taken over by a new retro style pub named Café de Bangkok. But we’re more interested in the earthy coffee shop that shares the outside space during the day. Sure, it can get hot on the retro wooden furniture but a cup of coffee, from hot to cold, will only cost you around B35-60. They also serve smoothies with yogurt (B60-65). For something new, try their fresh milk menu that comes in different flavors like apple, pineapple, orange, kiwi, and grape. Free wifi.
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53 Ekkamai Soi 12, 02-381-6120. Open daily 11am-midnight
Set in a Japanese-style garden with a dome-shaped fountain as a centerpiece, Vanilla Garden spans three buildings: Sauce, the bookstore/library focusing on cookbooks; Vanilla Café, a charming low-rise house replete with vintage toys, Japanese comics and elegant wooden furniture; and Royal Vanilla for those who enjoy classic dim sum and succulent dumplings. Vanilla’s cuisine is a mix of modern Japanese and Italian, so you can have gigantic tempura crispy rolls alongside fried cheese and tomato salsa. But we also recommend the salmon ramen tonyu in miso soup (B290), and miso sushi gratin seafood (B280).
7 Ekkamai Soi 12, Pridi Soi 37, 02-381-2842. Open Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight
From the creators of Al Majlis, comes this no-nonsense Isaan eatery. It’s riding the wave of new secret garden-style spots that put as much attention on the food as the booze. The menu consists of the usual pork knuckles, naem sausage, sun-dried beef and more—but the highlight is the do-it-yourself somtam kits, like tam thai sai poo (papaya salad with crab, B45). There’s also an impressive drink list including mojitos and kamikazes in carafes, affordable wines by the bottle, and various Thai whiskeys and beers.
72 Soi Ekkamai, between Sois 4 and 6, 02-714-7327. www.72ekamai.com. Open Mon-Sat 3pm-midnight
Situated in the shady grounds of boutique hotel 72 Ekkamai, we love this restaurant’s quirky décor—from the plastic dog on the diving board to the life-size superhero at the entrance. Relax at one of the poolside couches or the small and minimal dining space inside. The extensive menu is your familiar mix of pizzas (B247-347), Thai-style pastas (B172-347), Thai food and grilled meats (B227-472).
Rooftop, Mini Showroom, 99/99 Ekkamai Soi 7, 02-711-6999. www.fuzio.co.th. Open daily 11:30-2:30, 6pm-midnight
With its retro 20s décor, this may be Bangkok’s first “new American” restaurant, combining creative cooking and classic American elements. The ambience here feels like Hyde and Seek’s Prohibition-era, free-wheeling, renegade brother, with gorgeous floral sofas and armchairs. Try their pork, beef, and wagyu burgers with cheddar cheese (B290, 320, 550) and pork ribs with a cherry BBQ glaze, coleslaw and potato salad (B390), or a B750 steak. Wine by glass, B260-280 each, or under B2,000 for a bottle. They have Belgian beers on tap and some unusual beers by the bottle like Waterloo Dark and Premium Peche (both B240) as well as some signature cocktails (B230-B250).
Ekkamai Soi 22, 02-713-2162. Open Wed-Sun 4:30-11:30pm, Mon 4:30-11:30
Apart from being a stylish clothing and furniture store, Hidden Stuff has the added appeal of being a cute and trendy restaurant. Their funky seating is comprised of beanbag chairs and low tables spread out across the lawn. The menu, where every price ends in two, is an invitation to mix and match with creative dishes like pita namprik ong (B102), penne shoo-shee seafood (B202), and spare-rib tom-klong (B142).
2/F, Baan Ekkamai, Ekkamai Soi 21, 081-855-5777. Open daily 11am-2pm, 5-11pm
Despite a décor more reminiscent of New York or London, the kitchen here focuses on homemade Italian and French. Chef Oan recommends the pasta spinach sauce with half-boiled egg and shitake mushroom (B220) and pork chop with Felice’s special raspberry sauce and grilled vegetables (B480). We also love the strawberry millefeuille (B140) and the cocktail menus highlight each shop’s personality in Baan Ekkamai (B140-180). The place gets packed after 7pm with groups of young artsy types so make sure you arrive before the tables are all taken.
40/25 Ekkamai Soi 12, 02-391-9946. Open Tue-Sun 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm
Fresh ingredients, imaginative recipes, knowledgeable staff who are quick to offer intelligent recommendations—the “sixth brother” is a few notches above the average Italian in Bangkok. Appetizers include grilled mushroom salad (B300). The risotto prawns with mushrooms are light and zesty (B340), and the duck breast is spot-on (B600).
83/8 Ekkamai Soi 12, 02-392-2345. Open Mon-Fri 4:30pm-1am, Sat-Sun 2pm-1am
Al Majlis means “royal ballroom” in Arabic and there’s more than a touch of palatial elegance to this tea room. Guests are transported to Morocco as staff in kaftan shirts serve them under the cover of white draperies hanging from the ceiling. Al Majlis’ airy courtyard is perfect for romantic evenings: sink into one of the comfy beanbags, enjoy the tranquil ambiance, and forget you’re in Bangkok. Reservations are required for the coveted outdoor tables. Selections of imported teas (B92), desserts, cocktails and wines are available and a short Middle Eastern inspired menu.
2/F, Park Lane, 02-382-1127. Open Mon-Thu 5pm-midnight, Fri 5pm-1am, Sat noon-1am, Sun noon-midnight
Salute is a sexy wine bar and bistro with a terrace for some alfresco dining. Inside, colossal mirror shelves are stacked with wine from floor to ceiling—in case you need to be reminded why you’re here. With its Italian focus, you might like to try their signature dishes like the squid ink spaghetti with crab cream sauce (B425), or Salute pizza (B440). Also try the wine buffet promotion (B750 for red and white, or B790 for sparkling) and make sure you’re there on Tue-Sat evenings for their live jazz music.
6/F, MINI Showroom, 99/99 Ekkamai Soi 7, 02-711-6999. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-midnight
After a long break for renovation last year this rooftop Italian restaurant on top of the MINI showroom reopened with an updated menu and an all-new décor that aims for a more laid-back experience and features a new island in the middle of the dining room for cooking demos. The food remains high-end Italian, like pan-seared turbot fish fillet (B990) or 200g Kobe steak (B2,400) and lunch set is B550 net from Mon-Fri.
Ekkamai Soi 12, 02-713-3377. Open Tue-Fri 5pm-midnight, Sat-Sun 11am-midnight
Pedalicious has a workshop-like décor: long wooden tables, elegant bikes hanging off the walls (which are also for sale) and a carb-heavy menu. Cozy and informal, you get biking tips from the owners as you sample their “secret” pan-fried eggs (B100) or the simple penne with meat sauce (B150).
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1/F, Park Lane, 02-382-1122, Open daily 10am-9pm
American brand O•P•I is the Rolls Royce of nail polish. They’re sold at a bunch of nail salons but the O•P•I license of this shop is your best guarantee that this is the real deal. A manicure costs B550, and it’s B450 for basic color paints. To prove you’re a real hi-so, sign up for their exclusive membership that costs B50,000, offering you a lifetime B60,000 service value, and a private VIP room on every visit.
96/1 Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-392-2233. Open daily 9am-midnight
Thanks to its clean facilities, well-trained staff, and wallet-friendly prices, Health land won our Readers’ Choice Awards 2011 as favorite spa. A two-hour traditional Thai massage is now priced at B450 or B3,500 for 10-session coupons. You can also opt for a one-hour foot massage, B250.
73 Ekkamai Soi 1, 02-391-6442. Open Thu-Tue 10am-6pm
Claiming to be the first hair color bar in Thailand, this high-end salon will allow you to co-create the right color you want. All techniques used at Phy-A come direct from Colorsophist NOBU, a leading world-class hair procolorist from Tokyo and a long-time stylist of Hollywood celebrities. Downstairs from the salon is a café serving inter dishes, B220-290. You might also consider getting a fancy Harajuku manicure on your way out. Prices for coloring range from B2,900-7,900. Dry cut B900-1,500.
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1/F, Baan Ekkamai, Ekkamai Soi 21, 081-908-4614. Open daily 1-9:30pm
Heidi’s was once a cute little shop selling sugary chic fashion that went from Siam Square to CentralWorld. In a bold move, Tim, the owner and main designer of the brand, decided to up the stakes and move his shop over to a new investment in Baan Ekkamai, in pursuit of his dream for “real fashion,” meaning fashion for people ready to take a few risks with their looks. Designed by a select few designers, Heidi’s Secret’s trademark look is ultra-feminine. The shop also does custom party dresses to order. Prices range from B1,000-4,000.
1/F, Baan Ekkamai, Ekkamai Soi 21, 02-711-4783. Open daily 1-9:30pm
Ten years ago, Cocue managed to kick the local fashion scene up a notch by doing inter looks when everyone else was going for cute, girly styles. Once again, Cocue is taking some risks, by closing their Siam store and following Heidi’s Secret to Baan Ekkamai. If you want to be sure your look won’t get copied by the girl next door, there’s at least two hours worth of browsing in Cocue Basics’ two sections, and they’re mostly one-of-a-kind items.
71/1 Ekkamai Soi 21, 081-752-0096. Open Tue-Sun 1-9pm
With its mix of white brick walls and cozy sofas, the awesome décor is a sure sign Ekkamai has gone upscale—and the owner says he finds the location much more peaceful than Thong Lor. Offering mainly ready-to-wear suits and dresses for nights out and weddings, the shop has attracted a faithful following of hi-sos, celebs like Kao Jirayu and Joey Boy, and even Singaporean fans. Dresses start at B1,900 and B1,690-2,490 for a men’s shirt.
1/F, Park Lane, 081-833-3655. Open daily 11am-10pm
The shops founder and owner, Pu, has been a fashion enthusiast since a very early age. After working in broadcasting for 17 years, this chatty and amiable fellow decided to leave everything behind and do what he’d always been passionate about, antique furniture and fashion. The shop focuses on secondhand U.S. import Ralph Lauren shirts (starting from B800), rare Levi’s jeans from the 50s, and tailor-made leather shoes.
239/1-2 Ekkamai Soi 11, 02-392-2704-5. Open daily 10am-6pm. www.junkiesth.com
If you’re cruising through Ekkamai, you can’t miss Junkies’ secondhand furniture piled into three open-face shop houses. Random and charming, the selection is mostly imported from England but also comes from other European countries. Apart from all the retro home pieces, they also have some old vinyl and antique collectibles.
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http://tasteofnowhere.com
Blogger: Chalisa Viravan
Writes in: English and Thai
Chalisa is a famed fashion expert who used to work for fashion brand Moong-Doo and Elle Magazine, as a personal stylist at Siam Paragon and as a writer for several magazines. Her blog gives you an insider’s view with its Thai and international runway reviews, backstage snaps of fashion shows, party photos and fashionistas’ street looks.
http://mmcandybkk.blogspot.com
Blogger: Maruwut Buranasilpin
Writes in: Thai and English
Veteran designer Maruwut “Mark” Buranasilpin is behind the success of classy brands Maruwut and Asava. His blog features runway reviews, fashion news from Thailand and abroad as well as his own designs. You’ll also get to know which parties he’s been to and get a sneak peek at what models have been visiting his studio for a runway casting.
http://monolurf.exteen.com
Blogger: Worama Umpairat
Writes in: Thai
The founder of Styleurf (www.styleurf.com), a bulletin board that allows enthusiasts to post their own looks and show off their personal styles, also has her own personal blog, Mono’s Closet. Mono picks her favorite looks from around the world, from street fashion to catwalks. You can also find a broad range of articles on fashion history to designers’ biographies and even fashion crimes here.
http://www.shimusholiday.com/
Bloggers: Lisa Nantaterm, Piyanun Uthaisangchai and Thip Penpayap
Writes in: English
Created by a group of female friends, it was named after their muse, which happens to be a pug dog. Shimu’s Holiday doesn’t restrict its news to only fashion; they cover anything design-related, from runway shows and beauty products to home decoration and photography. Also, check out their sister blogs: I Love You, Blue Sky (iloveyoublusky.blogspot.com) for lifestyle and travel feeds.
http://vanillawalk.wordpress.com/
Blogger: Kamonnart Ongwandee
Writes in: English
Here you’ll see the fashion world through the eyes of a university student. She posts everything from stylebooks to the latest trends and occasionally a snippet on food or music. Her posts delve into her personal life as well; and readers can also track the progress of her fashion thesis project.
http://thevintagedolls.blogspot.com
Blogger: Sirichat Noiwieng
Writes in: English
Sirichat, nicknamed Fai, is a news anchor at TAN Network who has fallen in love with fashion. She blogs about runway shows and ad campaigns, mostly stuff featuring girly vintage styles and specially lots of dresses, patterns, prints and colors. Fai seems to be constantly updating—we have a difficult time keeping up with her!
http://mepanya.blogspot.com
Blogger: Panya “Ou” Jitrmanasakd
Writes in: Thai
Me Panya pays as much attention to men’s style as he does women’s fashion. By following his blog you’ll virtually accompany him to the fashion shows, collection previews and parties he’s attended. Ou also picks his favorite looks and collections from both international and domestic designers as well as aggregating fashion news from around the world. Partying 24/7 is a full time job, so this blog isn’t updated as frequently as some of the others.
http://poboxstyle.blogspot.com
Blogger: Chavaporn Laohapongchana
Writes in: Thai
The owner of online shop Iconic Bandits (www.iconicbandits.com) is lucky enough to work with celebrities like Ploy Chermarn and Mario Maurer. She shares her world with the rest of us through her side project, P.O. Box Style. The blog is fun—you’ll find plenty of party pictures as well as her own personal shopping routines. n
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A Thousand Tales/Bar Stories
This one-stop shop is a furniture store, cocktail bar and café all rolled into one. Its furniture store features bespoke mid-century Scandinavian pieces layered with a wide range of quality fabrics. Up on the second level, stop by Bar Stories and try their refreshing Mojitos or Café Fables and select from their delicious offering of sandwiches and salads. 55 Haji Lane, 6298-0838.
PS. Café
Situated in the ever bustling Paragon mall, the chic café and adjacent store are frequented by those who want to see and be seen. With stylish and cozy furnishing and a wide stock of magazines, here’s an ideal place to rest those tired feet after a day of shopping. L/3 Paragon, 290 Orchard Rd., 6735-6765.
Pluck
This style emporium is well known for its inventory of vintage apparel, accessories and even furniture, all flamboyance and wit. But it’s the ice cream parlor that we keep coming back for, with its 30 different types of deliciousness, including some wonderfully boozy concoctions like the Strawberry Champagne Sorbet. Trust us when we say your day will be made. 31/33 Haji Lane, 6396-4048.
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