Stephane Bonnat on What Makes Great Chocolate
We speak to the maître chocolatier about what makes great chocolate.
What’s the best way to enjoy eating chocolate?
As you want. You have to find the product and the chocolate you like. Chocolate is really open-minded. It is the most complete thing you’ll find on earth. It’s good for your brain and your body. It doesn’t make you fat; trust me, I eat it every day.
How important is cocoa percentage when buying chocolate?
Percent of cocoa is only one indicator. The kinds of cocoa, where it comes from, that matters too. What you have to do is read the ingredients. Pure dark chocolate should only contain cocoa, cocoa butter and sugar. If you see lecithin or any preservatives, it means the chocolate is industrial. Like if you buy a Louis Vuitton bag, you want real leather, not PVC, right?
Is single plantation important?
Of course. My family has worked with the same plantations for centuries. Each place gives you a different taste and different kind of chocolate, just like wine. For example, in Indonesia, they grow a kind of cocoa that is sweeter than elsewhere. Chocolate is the earth, it’s the signature of the soil. I really think it’s important, that’s why I usually go visit every plantation I work with. Most are small family farms, 1-2 hectares. I know every one of them.
What’s your favorite chocolate region?
Central America, which has been the world’s main supplier for hundreds of years. Chocolate is a part of the region there. All the countries like Mexico, Peru or Venezuela are very priceless not only for their chocolate’s good taste but for their heritage that goes back to 5,000 years ago. That’s why in my work, I try to make the best out of these historic cocoa varieties, I don’t try to hide or change their flavor profile.
Bonnat chocolates are available at Chocolab (Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd., 02-624-0000. www.sofitel.com).
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What it does: No modern dish would be complete without some wispy bit of foam floating about on top of your food. While whipped cream has been around forever, it is El Bulli’s Ferran Adria who made “espuma” popular in molecular gastronomy, whipping up foams made hot or cold, with a variety of flavors, from foie gras to truffles. Simply take a cream whipper (which uses a cartridge of nitrogen dioxide to spurt out a foamy version of whatever you put inside) and load it with your personal creation. Just note that for a foam to hold, it needs to have some kind of texture agent like cream or agar added to it.
B5,310 at Verasu. 83/7 Wireless Rd., 02-254-8100. www.verasu.com
What it does: If you’re cooking curries, you’re not going to have this problem. But start trying to pull of well-done roasts, or even a thick, perfectly medium rare T-bone steak, and you’re setting yourself up for a lot of (expensive) trial and error. How do the pros do it? They simply stick this gadget into their roast chicken, leg of lamb or ham and wait for the perfect temperature to come up.
B330 at Verasu. 83/7 Wireless Rd., 02-254-8100. www.verasu.com
What it does: Ferran Adria (him again) famously played with this machine, so why not give it a try at your home? Foie gras cotton candy might be a little expensive to try on your first attempt, but there are many other flavors you can whip up in this machine. Simply mix in a spice or flavoring extract with some sugar, dump into the machine, and start spinning the candy floss onto a stick.
B5,000 at M-trade Bangkok. Order online at www.m-tradebangkok.com.
What it does: What’s the best thing about a crème brulee? The crispy texture and caramelized notes of its top crust, of course. It’s easy to do, simply sprinkle the crème with brown sugar and blast away with a blow torch. But once you have this cool gadget, it’s time to get a lot more creative. Melt cheese in your cup of onion soup, glaze miso sauces on fish or roast marshmallows over cocktails.
B1,385 at Pantry Magic. G/F, The Eight Thonglor, 88/22 Sukhumvit 55 (Thonglor), 02-713-8650-1. www.pantry-magic.com/bangkok
What it does: This kit covers techniques including spherification, gelification and emulsification. It includes all the necessary food additives like agar, soy lecithin, calcium and lactate. But more importantly, it includes tools like a food grade syringe and slotted spoon that are indispensable to making these high-tech delights. Finally, there’s a DVD guide to teach you how to use it all.
US$78.90 (shipping included for delivery in Thailand) at www.molecule-r.com.
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If your fitness resolutions have fallen by the wayside, and you’re looking to pep up your exercise routine, why not give dance classes a go? Once you get over your embarrassment you’ll quickly forget you’re doing anything but having fun.
Circus Arts Introduction at Jitterbugs Swingapore
If you’ve ever watched acts like Cirque du Soleil and left wanting to try their death defying stunts, this one and a half hour class is for you. There’s basic acrobatics—tumbles, rolls, handstands and cartwheels—but also more unusual dance performance pieces using equipment such as the aerial hoop (a large metal ring suspended in mid air), long straps of silk fabric and the trapeze. Working with the apparatus trains your strength and flexibility, and you’ll be surprised by how graceful you look once you’ve got the hang of it. Hour-long trial classes are available for $35 and an eight week course goes for $280.
Pole Grooves at Bobbi’s Pole Studio
Known for their exotic dance expertise, Bobbi’s recently launched two new pole-cum-dance classes. The first, Cabaret Pole is theatrical, with moves set to popular Broadway tunes like “Dance Ten, Looks Three” from the show, A Chorus Line. You’ll learn about getting into character and vamping it up with expressive stage moves. Then there’s Chole (an abbreviation of chair and pole). Launched a month ago, the sessions teach you to work both structures at the same time. Classes are capped at 17 students, so you’ll get ample attention. Both classes cost $260 for eight weekly one-hour sessions.
Sh’Bam at True Fitness
Launched in February, this booty-shaking dance fitness program (designed by Les Mills International) is the gym chain’s newest exercise craze. The steps, set to popular club tunes, are meant to improve your coordination and cardiovascular health, and encourage you to twist and turn to 12 alternating tracks—some high intensity to get your heart rate up (you’ll be burning upward of 500 calories per hour-long session), and other slower beats to allow for recovery. A new release is produced every three months with fresh music and choreography, so you’re unlikely to get bored. Gym membership is required but complimentary trial classes are available.
Street Cha Cha at Mosaic Dance Studio
A social dance class revived by the studio last month, this is a looser version of ballroom cha cha. Between bending your knees and stamping your heels, you get a great workout for your calves and quads. Ladies also pick up natural but controlled gestures which tone the arms. Gym membership is required but a trial two-week membership is available for $30.
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Artist: Buddha Bless feat. Krean Peace
Label: Independent
After releasing their first joint single “Luem Pai Kon” last September, the Buddha Bless crew teams up with Stamp Apiwat (under the name Krean Peace) once again in this lively pop-meets-rap single which sarcastically pokes fun at the beautiful-but-picky girls that they will one day no longer have the patience to deal with.
Artist: Anything Else?
Label: Parinam Music
The third single from three man indie-pop band Anything Else?’s album, More, tackles the issue of mistrust between couples, a similar theme to their previous single “Top Tuan” (having problems, boys?). This time, the tone is even more heartbreaking with a piano intro, sweet guitar, and silky soft vocals that drive home the hook.
Artist: Silly Fools
Label: Warner Music
After quitting RS Promotion last year, putting a hold on their singles, the rock band Silly Fools return with this impressive release. The lyrics, composed by Boyd Kosiyabong, focus on the empty moment after a long relationship, but are delivered with the band’s signature rock sound and an acoustic guitar that inspires a livelier mood.
Artist: “Tong, Jerry & Friends”
Label: Spicydisc
It’s been eight years since the song “Klab Ma,” by Two Days Ago Kids, the band led by Jerry Milindavanich and featuring Boy Trai Bhumirat on vocals, was first released, yet it continues to be one of the most played songs in clubs. Despite its success, the band has released one studio album. This year, Jerry teams up with Tong (P.O.P’s guitarist) and his artist friends for a special project called Tong, Jerry & Friends. Their first single “Por Dai Leaw,” is a melodic pop tune about a man who can’t get over his dark past.
Artist: “Zor Nok Hook Ta Toe”
Label: Monotone Music Production
Monotone is an enthusiastic group of artists who are so busy and humble that they never create projects using their own name, until now. But this special album, Zor Nok Hook Ta Toe, features singles from people in the Monotone and the Stu-Fe family. “Horizon,” their first single, which is composed and sung by Tua Monotone, offers a simple pop rock vibe, meaningful lyrics and an inspiring hook, making it very easy to love.
Artist: Burin Boonvisut
Label: Spicydisc
Covers of Apartmentkhunpa’s songs don’t always work, and “Mai Roo Jak Chan, Mai Roo Jak Ter” by Pop Calories Blah Blah springs to mind. But we have to say Boonvisut’s version of “Pra Kod Karn” is far better. The new sound arrangement keeps the same mood, while adding an old-school touch through the use of saxophone and trombone.
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OK, so we appreciate that Bangkok is just a little too hot and a little too scary to cycle long distances, which is where a fold up bike comes in. These bikes are convenient for commuting around the city, as you can fold up the bike, carry it with you on the BTS or MRT, and then pedal off into the sois without having to hail a cab. Try the foldables from classic brand Dahon (from B9,500) or a sleeker design option by Jeep (B12,800), both at www.aimbike.com.
There’s nothing like cruising alongside the Chao Phraya River, wind blowing in your face. With its old-school simplicity meets modern design flourishes, the cruiser bike has witnessed a mini renaissance here of late. Choose your own cruiser at NYLA (G/F, Esplanade Cineplex, Ratchada Rd., 02-660-9297-8). The shop offers several cruisers from Nirve, with prices ranging from B18,000-B36,000.
If you’re going off-road, you’ll want a bike with (at the very least) front suspension to handle the bumps. Mountain bikes aren’t just for mountains. Any uneven terrain will do, from dirt roads in Kanchanburi to sidewalks on Sukhumvit. However, if you’re planning to use it primarily on the road you can drop the suspension and save yourself a chunk of cash. Bike Zone (2/F, Outdoor Unlimited Zone, Amarin Plaza, Ploenchit Rd., 02-652-1559, www.bikezone.co.th) offers a good range from Marin. Beginners can settle for the Iron Springs (B22,000) but for the seasoned enthusiast, go for the East Peak 5.6 at B65,000.
We like Cog’n’Roll (126, Soi Wat Mahaputaram, Siphaya Rd., MRT Hualumpong, 081-376-9696, http://cognroll.wordpress.com/) as much for its fixed gear bicycles painted in original Bangkok taxi colors as for its low-key workshop vibe (wooden walls, location tucked by a temple. Bikes start at B25,000 but you could start with a pair of brand new wheels (B2,500) for your old bike. Added bonus: they’ll help you install them and provide all the necessary tools.
If you want the very best in bicycles then you could do worse than splash out on a B115,000 Trek 5.2 LeoPard road bike available from Probike (231/9 Sarasin Rd., Lumpini, 02-253-3384. www.probike.co.th, Open Mon-Fri 10am-7pm, Sat 8.30am-7pm, Sun 8.30am-5pm). The frame is feather-light, the gear changes as smooth as a Ferrari and you can be sure your rich uncle is going to be jealous.
Secondhand: If you want to save some dough, contact the tour companies; they rotate bikes regularly and always keep them in top condition.
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For detailed Google maps of all the routes covered in this feature, visit http://g.co/maps/pdmf2
The vibe: This city ride is one of our favorites because you get to see, and travel through, lots of smaller sois and neighborhoods you wouldn’t normally visit.
The ride: In the northwest corner of Benjakitti Park (next to Queen Sirikit Convention Center) you’ll see the entrance to a green, elevated pathway, which will take you past some stinky ponds, over a slum, up and down some stairs and magically spits you out at Lumpini Park. Leaving Lumpini from the south-west gate, ride all the way down Silom and turn right on to Charoen Krung Road, then left on Charoen Krung soi 30. This will take you past the Sheraton Hotel and River City and into Soi Vanit 2, dumping you out at Songwat Road, where you take a left.
You might have to sleuth your way through this next part, but essentially ride straight-ish until you make it to the Memorial Bridge (Saphan Phut). Wind your way along the river to Maharaj Road, which will take you up past Wat Pho, the Grand Palace, and right into Thammasat University where you can take a shortcut through the campus to Phra Athit Road. If you don’t know how to get to Khao San from here, well, just follow the hippies.
The pay-off: There are plenty of good restaurants in this area to recharge your batteries; we recommend Roti Mataba at the far end of Phra Athit. Take a break in Phra Sumen Fort Park before hitting the bars on Rambutri. Of course, Khao San is also home to some of the fiercest Songkran water battles.
Bonus: Riding through Talad Noi, one of the most eclectic neighborhoods in the city.
The vibe: This route is not for the faint-hearted, because it covers 76km and the April heat is unforgiving. But, if you drink copious amounts of water and take it slow and steady tortoise-style, this ride is a great way to get some exercise, see a bit of countryside, and get to Ayutthaya for free.
The ride: The route is pretty straight forward—literally. Beginning at Chatuchak Market, take Kampeng Phet 2 and then jag left onto Kampeng Phet 6, which you’ll follow for a while. It’s a bit hairy for a few kilometers, but never fear, soon you’ll be rolling through quaint countryside. Kampeng Phet 6 kind of ends at the Rangsit Railway Station, but continue on to Liap Khlong Prem Road and keep pedaling, you fool! By now the scenery should be quite nice and green—did you drink enough water? Stop anyway and drink some more. Keep going until you can get on to route 3309, which you’ll follow until it turns into route 3477, which you’ll stay on until you get to Ayutthaya. We don’t recommend a ride back unless you have robotic legs, but there are several options: load your bikes onto the cargo car and take the train back, or hire a van ahead of time to meet you in Ayutthaya and take you back home.
The pay-off: Apart from the world-heritage site? The feeling of having gone on a real adventure.
Bonus: The route roughly follows the train tracks, so if you get sick of all this pedaling at any point along the way, stop at the nearest train station and buy a ticket back to civilization.
The vibe: Many people live in Bangkok for years without ever knowing what this vast green expanse of nothing on the map is. Apparently there’s an old decree that says no building in this area can be taller than the tallest palm tree. Consequently, the entire expanse of mangrove swamp—technically in Samut Prakan province—is veined with raised cement pathways dotted with tiny clusters of houses-on-stilts every few hundred meters.
The ride: We find it’s best to meet your posse at the Tesco on Rama IV, as it’s easy to find and you can park there. Head out onto Kasem Rat Road and go south, over the train tracks, until you see the gate for the Bangkok Port in front of you. Turn right into the little road that goes past the 7-11 next to Wat Klong Toey and suddenly you’ll be staring at the mighty Chao Phraya. Pay here (B20 per person) and load your bikes into a boat. Once on the other side, ride straight for about 800m and turn left at the second intersection into the park to get your bearings. (Note: You can also rent bikes at the pier on the far side of the river for a small fee).
The pay-off: You can explore on the lightly-trafficked roads or relax in the park, but what most people do is get lost on the raised pathways that curl off into the trees. Monitor lizards, crazy birds and fist-sized snails will likely be your only companions as you ride through silent jungle. An occasional friendly “Hello!” to anyone you happen to pass can’t hurt. If you feel up for it, search out Bang Nampeung Market for a great taste of local life. Be warned, you do have to be a fairly competent rider to handle these tracks, which often have 90º turns and can be pretty high up. You certainly do not want to fall into the muck below.
Bonus: As it will be Songkran, you’ll likely get a peek into a more traditional, laid-back form of celebrations than you would on Silom.
The vibe: Bangkok is flat and cycling here isn’t very challenging. But never fear! There exists at the 11th Infantry Regiment (11 Phahol Yothin Rd., Bangkhen) up past Chatuchak Park an off-road mountain bike course that can challenge you with sand-traps, hills, ditches, berms and ponds without ever you having to leave the city.
The ride: They don’t rent bikes there, but the fee to ride the 3km trail is only B30. It’s often used by hardcore riders who want to beat their best time (7 or 8 minutes if you’re a total badass) so be aware of your surroundings if you’re taking it slower than that.
The pay-off: Apart from getting your adrenaline racing, there are drinks and even showers available at the canteen if you want to freshen up after your laps. And remember, just because it’s Songkran doesn’t mean soldiers with guns like being splashed with water.
Bonus: They might have a few full-suspension bikes you can borrow for a lap or two. To hell with safety, and let’s see you really ride!
Fancy a day spent cycling past Chedi Chet Yot or up the steps of Preah Vihear but don’t actually have the time to head there? Why not just jump in a cab and visit Muang Boran, the Ancient City (02-709-1644. Open daily 8am-5pm. www.ancientcity.com). This cultural park, about 30 minutes past On Nut BTS, features 3/4 size replicas of most of the Kingdom’s major historical sites set in a gorgeous parkland in the shape of Thailand. You can rent bikes there—B50/B150 (single/three-speed) or bring your own and pay B50 to cycle round the Kingdom in an afternoon.
At just two and half hours from Bangkok, the area around Khao-Eto in Prachinburi, is the place where mountain bikers in the know come to get their off-road kicks at weekends. There are actually three main trails that cover varying levels of difficulty, there’s also a bike shop for repairs nearby and a restaurant for recharging the batteries. Get full details and maps of the trails at http://www.mountainbiketoursthailand.com/ as well as loads of other suggestions for other MTB trails all over Thailand.
Best known for its cute floating market and fire flies, Ampawa, the small town in Samut Songkram is also a great place for a bike trip. As well as offering bikes to rent Thai Theeb @ Ampawa (2/1, Prachasret Rd., Ampawa, Samut Songkram 082-777-5999. Mon, Wed, Thu 10am-8pm/ Fri-Sun 10am-9pm) provide maps to places of interest and historical sites in the area so you can explore on your own. Cost: free for rides under 30 min, B50 for 60min, B300 for a day.
Wachirabenchatat Park (Suan Rot Fai) is a great picnic and cycling spot. You don’t even need a bike here, with rentals available for B20-30 each, depending on the bike model or your negotiation skills. They’ll take your ID so you don’t cycle off into the sunset with their precious ride. There’s also a butterfly park and a faux urban environment (complete with traffic lights) for kids to practice riding their bikes.
If you don’t want to go it alone, there are plenty of guided tours of the city that can show you around, and usually include a bike, guide and snacks in the price.
The best-known one is Spice Roads (14/1-B Soi Promsi 2, Sukhumvit 39, 02-712-5305, www.SpiceRoads.com). Their Bang Kachao tour is B1,000 for a 1/2 day trip but they also do rentals from B400 per day
Alternatively, try Grasshopper Tours (www.GrasshopperAdventures.com), Co van Kessel Tours (www.CoVanKessel.com), or Follow Me (www.FollowMeBikeTour.com).
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Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch SPF50+, B495. Try 3/F, The Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong.
Nivea Sun Moisturising Immediate Collagen & DNA Protect SPF50, B384. Try G/F Central Chidlom, 1027 Ploenchit Rd., 02-793-7777. BTS Chidlom.
Shu Uemura UV Armor SPF 50+, B2,000. Try 2/F, Siam Discovery, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-0166. BTS Siam.
Anessa Perfect UV Sunscreen AA SPF 50+, B1300. Try M/F Siam Paragon, 991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000. BTS Siam.
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1.) Keep your feet safe and dry with these funky rubber shoes from Native, B2,390 each at Loft.
2.) Store your water-sensitive items in this handy water-proof bag. Free Form, B1,600 (large), B730 (small) at Loft.
3.) Coral colors are a hot trend, especially for swimwear. Seafolly, B5,790 at Central Chidlom.
4.) This year swimsuits are all about bright patterns even for guys, grab these trunks from Timo, B3,000.
5.) Vintage-style shades never go out of fashion, Onion, B900.
6.) Trust us; wherever you go you’ll really need a towel. Esquire, B625; Nu cover, B379 at Central Chidlom.
7.) This limited edition ODM JCDC (B8,250) helps you stay on time for the fun, and yes it’s waterproof.
Central Chidlom. Ploenchit Rd., 02-793-7777. BTS Chid Lom
Loft. 4-5/F, Siam Discovery Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-0328/-30. BTS Siam. www.loftbangkok.com
Timo. Try Paragon Selective Store, 2/F, Siam Paragon, 02-690-1000. BTS Siam. www.timotrunks.com
Onion. Siam Vintage Section, opposite Chula Book Center, Siam Square, 081-174-4108. BTS Siam. www.onionbkk.com
ODM. Watch stores nationwide. Try Central Chidlom and Loft (address above).
Special thanks to: Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumphini Park
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Khao chae, with its mix of sweet and deep-fried treats, and its jasmine-scented ice-cold water, is both serious comfort food and efficent protection from the heat. “It actually has a genuine cooling effect on the body. Chinese food is oily, which provides insulation from the cold. But in this case, the sweetness combined with the cool water and aroma work together to lower your internal temperature,” says celebrity TV chef Yingsak Jonglertjesdawong.
While many argue that this side dish is the most traditional in Thailand, it is actually quite hard to pinpoint its specific origins. According to Ampornsri Pornpithakdumrong, an expert in Thai royal recipes, “After King Rama V brought khao chae back from the Mon people, his family and other aristocrats adopted it and it spread around the country. Different palaces like Wang Bang Khun Prom and Wang Suan Sunandha developed different recipes, and the dish evolved.”
Today, the three most famous variants are the royal recipe, the Phetburi one and the original Mon recipe. Despite variations you can normally expect the following in your khao chae: luk kapi (dried fish and shrimp paste balls), hom daeng yud sai (stuffed shallots), prik yuak sord sai (stuffed sweet peppers), shredded sweet pork, carved vegetables, pla wan (sweetened fish) and chai poe phad kai (stir-fried preserved turnip with eggs).
But like lots of Thai dishes, today’s khao chae is often made by taking shortcuts and lacks the necessary attention to detail, especially with the rice. Yingsak says, “People just throw the rice in the jasmine-scented water and it becomes very soggy.” In fact, the proper process takes three days. “First, you soak the rice with jasmine flowers overnight, then with ylang ylang flowers. Then you smoke it with ob candles,” says Ampornsri.
Today’s khao chae might not be made strictly to tradition, but its very surival is a testament to its greatness. “It’s wonderful that people are still thinking of it,” says Yingsak. “Restaurants are still serving khao chae to new generations. It’s admirable that they don’t just go for something new and trendy. We really have to save this tradition. If you eat a beautifully carved fingerroot with khao chae, you don’t want microwaved convenience store food anymore.”
Bussaracum (B250)
Their khao chae arrives with elaborately presented carved vegetables.
1 Soi Pramual, Si Wiang Rd., Silom, 02-630-2216-8. Open daily 11am-2pm, 5:30-10:30pm
Than Ying (B295, lunch only)
A recipe created by M.C. Sulapwanleng Wisuthi during the reign of Rama VII’s reign. Reservations recommended.
10 Soi Pramuan, Silom Rd., 02-236-4361. Open daily 11:30am-10pm
Khao Chae Raan Pa Tib (B170)
This sweet grandma sells khao chae out of her home. Her recipe is also M.C. Sulapwanleng Wisuthi’s, and she says she used to work in her kitchen.
Call (one day in advance) and pick up at Coutier Club Bld. (next to Sukhothai Palace), Samsen Rd., 02-241-3188. Open daily 9am-6pm
Khao chae mae tong yod (B35)
A Mon recipe passed down for 200 years.
Koh Kred, in front of Wat Poramaiyikawas School, 084-543-5411. Open Sat-Sun and holidays 10am-5pm
Patara Fine Thai Cuisine (B450, lunch only)
Their own recipe.
375 Thonglor Soi 19, 02-185-2960-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm
Thiptara (B420)
The recipe was passed down to Chef Chamnan Thepchana from the aristocratic, Malakul family. Some of the ingredients like jasmine flowers are grown in the chef’s own garden.
G/F, The Peninsula Hotel, 333 Charoennakorn Rd., 02-861-8888. Open daily 6am-10:30pm
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