Charoen Saeng Silom

This place has been a hit for around 50 years and is now run by the second generation of the same family. Their recipe, with its generous use of spices, is a big factor in drawing customers back time and time again, and so is the size of the pig legs. As if the taste was not proof enough of the place’s legendary status, they have also received many awards, like the Shell Shuan Shim for their juicy pork (B50) that’s soaked in perfumed spices and carries a slightly burnt aroma. You should also try the kaki (pig’s feet) and entrails, too—properly cleaned and totally succulent.
492/6 Charoenkrung Soi 49, Charoenkrung Rd., 02-234-8036, 02-234-4602. Open daily 8:30am-1:30pm

Bangwa

Whenever you need to cross the river, make sure you plan a stop here where they serve tender, melt-in-the-mouth pork (B30) which comes with a smokier flavor than you find elsewhere. Not only is the pork a treat, the rice is also perfectly cooked. Don’t forget to wash all that fat down with a bowl of steamy bamboo soup (B20).
In front of Petchkasem Soi 46/2. Petchkasem Rd., 081-617-1178. Open daily 7am-4pm

Hia O

When it comes to khao kha moo, it’s hard to look further than the Yaowarat area. Hia O boasts about their secret Teochew recipe, the result being a darker colored soup. The owner refuses to tell us what he puts in it but, needless to say, the soup is very flavorful. A top bowl (B35) is assured when you break down the fatty kaki (B50) with some vinegar to take the edge off the sourness.
Next to Wat Mangkorn, Mangkorn Rd., 02-215-4172. Open daily 6am-3:30pm

Ieng Nanglerng

Another kha moo specialist who’s been in the game for more than 60 years, Ieng is favored by the bureaucrats who work nearby. And with good reason, as the pork is definitely among the juiciest around, the soup is rich and tasty and the pickled cabbage makes for a perfect accompaniment.
Nang Lerng Market, Nakornsawan Rd., 081-513-1638. Open daily 7:30am-1:30pm

Kha Moo Tee Saam

Naturally, we love the fact that they’re open 24 hours. Also known as Kha Moo Siri Rama, the place used to open at 3am because it needed so much time to braise the meat—just look at the long line of pots boiling the pigs. It’s obvious to see why it’s a must-visit on any eating trek of Yaowarat, with the slow-cooked pork (B35) so tender and flavorful.
400 meters from Wat Mangkorn, Charoenkrung Rd., 083-082-9036. Open daily 24 hrs

Q&A: Bancha Banjerdprayoon, owner of Charoen Saeng Silom

Where did you learn to make kha moo?
My father moved here from China and he started the place with his Teochew recipe, which I then developed further. It’s been 50 years. And now, I’m so old, my kids are learning to do it.

What are the important factors in good kha moo?
The pig leg needs to be under two kilograms. Otherwise, bigger pigs will be too sticky no matter how long we boil them. The quality of the pig is also important. In the past, it wasn’t easy to find the good ones. Then we’d grill the pigs from early morning, soak them in water and take out some fat. We would finish around 9-10pm before braising them overnight. Today, I use the ones from CP and Betagro—we can tell them what we want and they will cut and grill them for us.

What about the seasoning?
There are more than 20 kinds of spices I use and I’m the only one who is capable of doing it. It’s not easy. You need to know what to put in first. Some seasonings have a strong smell, some are really light. You can’t explain that to people. It’s all in the senses.

Have you ever thought about expanding?
We won’t do franchises. It’s a matter of quality. I want to cook with my own hands because there will be no standards if I ask others to do it. We’ll lose credibility, too.

What’s your favorite part?
I like kaki (pig’s feet) the most. It’s the tenderest part of the pig.
 

Broadcast HQ

Every Indi Night, catch Shmindustry playing indie music directed at party peeps from the creative industries, together with resident DJ RTYPE helming the decks. Expect some good indie and alternative rock tunes, as well as Britpop, while you enjoy their $8 promo on house pours through the night. At 8-9pm, experience Open Decks, where in-house DJ Darkwing lets you spin some mixes of your own.

Hood Bar and Cafe

Go local and watch homegrown artistes perform their original compositions at the weekly Saturday Original Sessions (SOS). The sessions are free-for-all, regardless of age. A firm supporter of the local indie scene, Hood Bar and Cafe has featured acts like In Each Hand A Cutlass, Typewriter, and The Sam Willows.

Loof

Make your way up to this rooftop bar for Loofapalooza, which promises the best pop, alternative, and indie tunes from the ’90s and beyond. Fuel up with their Catch The Jug Bug promo, with jugs of house pours at $40 nett, and Long Island Tea going for $80 nett. With the crowd comprising pretty young things and white-collars, you’ll see that the passion for indie music knows no age.

Home Club

Start your weekends right with not one, but two indie nights here. KICKS! sees resident DJ Joe Ng and his crew of three spinning indie anthems, while beat! has established local names like I Am David Sparkle, and big-name guest DJs from the likes of Bloc Party and The Stone Roses gracing the stage.

Blue Blazer at Nektar

Known for its unique ability to sooth a sore throat, this classic is made with clover honey, lemon rind, hot water and Frapin cognac. The cognac and lemon water are heated separately. Then, the spirit is lit on fire and the contents of both cups are poured back and forth (kind of like teh tarik). It’s a real wowzer of a process to see in action: a long blue flame blazes through the air (hence, the name).

Hot Buttered Rum at Astor bar

This luxurious recipe comprises dark Guatemalan Ron Zacapa 23 year rum—made from only first-press virgin sugar cane—brown sugar, water and a nub of butter steamed together and topped with cinnamon. The spicy creamy concoction is poured into a large huggable latte mug for maximum comfort value. Order it quick as it’s only available through the end of December.

Mulled Wine at Magma German Wine Bistro & Shop

It takes only a whiff of the deep burgundy Christmas staple, redolent of cinnamon and cloves, to lift the spirits. Magma’s is a particularly cheery mix of apple chunks, the house mix of German red wine, and fruit wine imported from western town Wetter (it’s a specialty there). Served in a petite 200ml clear glass, we appreciate how the focus here’s quality not quantity.

Celebrity Fitness

Celebrity Fitness’s pioneer outlet in Rochester Park gives you great views of greenery from the treadmill. It’s also equipped with impressive facilities, including top-security lockers (accessible only with your membership card), as well as cardio machines with built-in personal TV and high-speed Internet. If you’re sick of your regular routine, we recommend their Floating Yoga (they’re the first to introduce it in Singapore), peloton spinning and myriad aerobics classes.

Pure Fitness Asia Square

If you’re looking for convenience, check out this swanky and practically faultless facility in Marina Bay. The huge shower and locker rooms provide everything from fluffy towels to full workout attire. There’re four Macs set up by the reception table so you can check in on work during lunch hour, as well as an impressive library of DVDs for rent. The cardio area overlooks the magnificent cityscape, but the real jaw-droppers are the indoor training pool, a 4 by 35m track and the MMA Zone, fondly known as “The Cage”.

Sky Fitness

They can’t seem to pamper you enough here—you’ve got views of Sentosa and Mount Faber, a relatively comprehensive array of free weights, a spa, a child-minding facility, a health food cafe, and get this: a concierge service. That’s right—you can get your laundry picked up, next flight booked and movie seats reserved while you work those abs. If that doesn’t motivate you, their in-house training programs—one of which is golf conditioning—should do the trick, as should their dance and yoga classes.

Verita Gym

It’s a regular gym, but because it’s situated within the Verita Advanced Wellness center, it’s one of our top picks. As a member of the center, you get access to not just the gym facilities, but also a host of other services that improve your well-being. The fact that it’s located in a quiet patch right off Orchard already scores it points, but the yoga, pilates and TRX classes, massages, high-tech therapies (including one in a salt cave), as well as an aroma bar make it a real gem.

Nightlife

Barbali

Style-wise, Barbali goes for that exposed brick look, and there’s also a gallery on the second floor. In addition to booze, the place offers many international dishes such as spaghetti with fat head shrimp (B120) and green curry with salted egg served with rice (B90). There’s live acoustic music late on weekends, and lately, the bar has been exhibiting paintings and photos by local university students and artists. Beer: B90, Cocktails: B120, Outdoor seating available
Great for: Those who like art and alcohol.
02-629-0318. Open daily from 5pm-midnight.

Dickinson's

Owned by the family behind legendary electro havens Club Culture and Café Democ, Dickinson’s offers more danceable tunes, from dubstep to progressive house and drum n’ bass, than their neighbors, in a two-story space filled with colorful retro sofas and some tables on the sidewalk. Drinks-wise, the focus is on martinis such as the Culture Martini (vodka, Malibu, orange and pineapple juice, B150).  Beer: B90, Cocktails: B140, Outdoor seating available
Great for: Hipsters and those who have had enough of pop tunes.
089-497-8422. Open Mon-Fri noon-1am; Sat-Sun 5pm-1am

Good Story

A little more lavish and romantic than their competition, this place manages to stand out from the others with their green glass door and European influences. The food is quite good here, if you don’t get filled up by the guay jub yuan noodles (see page 8) next door. Try the salmon topped with seafood sauce (B170), deep-fried chicken (B140) and seabass in tom yam (B160). If you’re bored of Chang, there’s a decent list of German and Belgian beers like Erdinger, Hoegaarden and Duvel.  Beer: B70, Cocktails: B150, Outdoor seating available
Great for: Dates and group of girl friends chitchatting thanks to a background of easy-pop tunes.
02-629-2924. Open daily 11-1am

Jazz Happens Bar

This well-known jazz influenced bar is run by a group of lecturers from the Faculty of Jazz at Silapakorn University with the aim of providing a stage for talented young musicians, including their own students. Apart from live jazz every day, the bar offers classic drinks and a Thai food menu for dinner.  Beer: B110, Cocktails: B120, Outdoor seating available
Great for: Students and jazz lovers.
02-282-9934, 084-450-0505. Open daily from 7pm-12:30am.

Hemlock

One of the original hip spots to have sprung up on this road, Hemlock boasts an all-white minimalist interior with a small rock garden in the middle. The intimate lighting and soft jazz tunes add to the chilled-out atmosphere, while the dining area doubles as a gallery, with rotating work by local artists displayed on the walls. The menu is pretty thick but we do recommend trying the khao hor bai bua (stir-fried rice wrapped with lotus leaf, B120) and most of the nampriks. Beer: B70, Cocktails: B120
Great for: A cool hangout spot with your foreign friends.
02-282-7507. Open Mon-Sat 4pm-midnight

Glasses Bar

The final bar on Phra Arthit Road before you get to Phra Sumen Road, Glasses Bar keeps the retro local vibe alive with white-washed wooden tables. And we definitely recommend you sit inside as next door’s music can get a little too loud. Beer: B100, Cocktails: B100, Outdoor seating available
Great for: Phra Sumen Fort watchers.
089-499-4648. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am

Mango

Another offering retro decor that mixes and matches frames and knick-knacks for a nostalgic living room atmosphere. Mango offers all-day dining that sticks mainly to resolutely Thai dishes like deep-fried spare ribs and tom yam, while some healthy juice is available out front. Wi-Fi is also available. Coffee: B65, WIFI,  Outdoor seating available
Great for: More mature people seeking a quiter night.
086-393-2061. Open daily 9am-11pm

Eat

Escapade Burgers & Shakes (BK PICK)

A strong contender for the best burgers in town, Escapade is crammed into a tiny shophouse with an equally petite garden out the back. Mixologist Karn Liangsrisuk and Chef Van Rohitratana whip up some strong and creative cocktails and juicy burgers. Pull up a stool at the tiny bar and ask for the new ingredients on the food side or the homemade liquors on the bar side. We recommend an Angus beef burger (B180) with homemade ketchup or the Quarter cow (two beef patties, two slices of cheddar cheese with truffle sauce, B280.) Be prepared to meet some new friends, at this homey but small setting has diners practically sitting on top of one another.  Beer: B80, Cocktails: B140, Outdoor seating available
087-363-2629, 081-406-3773. Open Tue-Sun 12pm-midnight

Salad on Demand

This area may have loads of places to drink and grab some greasy pub grub, but they sure don’t have much choice when it comes to a healthy meal. Located amid the slew of bars here, you’ll spot a bike in front of a small, white shop. Step inside for some low-fat dishes. All the salad dressings here are oil-free because they only use vegetable stock. Our recommendation is the sesame sauce (B55 for five vegetables with dressing).
02-629-3982. Open daily 8am-9pm

Somsong Pochana

Just past Sumen Fort, this 40-year-old spot is best-known for their noodles in the Sukhothai style, but wait, we’re here to tell you that that their unknown treasure is actually the pla dook pad ped (stir-fried catfish with peppers and chili, B50) which is bursting with well-balanced flavors and a peppery aroma. Reconnect with your inner grandma by ordering the kanom jeen sao nam (rice vermicelli with coconut milk, dried shrimp and pineapple, B40) and the hard-to-find khao fang piak (millet with coconut milk, B25). Do call ahead as some dishes sometimes run out before 2pm.
112 Soi Wat Sangwet, 02-282-0972. Open daily 9:30am-4pm

Soay

Soay has been a popular guay tiew nuea (beef noodles) spot for decades. The place is now run by the cute second generation owner who continues to serve this succulently mild beef soup. The shophouse is filled with photos of visiting stars, while the menu is also in Korean, which goes to show just who packs out the place. Your bowl of noodles (B40) comes with juicy beef and properly cleaned entrails. The best news is that the owners tell us they’ll soon open at night for drinkers.
083-495-3129, 081-487-9359, 086-982-9042. Open daily 8am-6pm (except the second and last Wednesday of the month)

Aquatini

This cozy restaurant is an ideal spot to enjoy a cocktail by the river. There is an air-con area, but we say stick to the al fresco terrace and revel in the river view and fresh breeze. Service can be a bit laidback, but the spacious layout affords intimacy for a romantic, easygoing dinner—quite a rarity on this road. The menu offers a variety of pocket-friendly Thai and international dishes. Start your night with a signature Aquatini Dream (rum, pineapple juice and triple sec, Beer: B10, Cocktails: B140, Outdoor seating available
Navalai River Resort, 02-280-9955. Open daily 6:30pm-1am. www.navalai.com.

Babble & Rum (BK PICK)

Riva Surya’s restaurant and bar, Babble & Rum, is decked out in a contemporary French décor. Visit at sunset for the full deal: comfort food, tasty cocktails and views that take in the river and two bridges (Pinklao and Rama 8). Lie on the daybed and ask for the recommended dishes like the smoked salmon and avocado salad (B290), best enjoyed with cocktails like the candy-flavored Jelly Riva (vodka, melon syrup, lime juice on top of jelly, B280) and Jamaican Fizz (vodka, mango fizz, mango, syrup and lime juice, B280). Quite possibly the best spot for a breezy night out on Phra Arthit Road.  Beer: B99, Cocktails: B250, Outdoor seating available
02-633-5000. www.rivasuryabangkok.com. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm

Khun Dang Guay Jub Yuan

The special ingredients brought down from Ubon Ratchathani are the selling point of this shophouse. The noodle dishes are cooked one by one along with your choice of different toppings like eggs and mushrooms. Even though portions are not very big, the gooey soup is just amazing, plus the moo yor (sausage) is peppery and fragrant thanks to the quality pork meat. Make sure to get a seat on the footpath if you don’t want to get all sweaty inside the steamy shophouse.
085-246-0111, 089-056-5777. Open Mon-Sat 11am-9pm

Roti-Mataba

Opened as a street stall by an Indian immigrant after World War II, this Thai Muslim establishment later moved to its present location. Set in a simple two-story shophouse, Roti-Mataba’s fame has now spread far and wide, which means it’s often packed and you may well have to wait for a table before you can sample its made-to-order Islamic fare. The crowds of backpackers, office workers and night owls come for the namesake matabas (starting from B30) and a range of curries and roti with different fillings (from B15)—all made right in front of you in the open kitchen. Our favorites have to be the salad khaek (Middle Eastern salad, B60) and the mataba with mixed filling (B60).
02-282-2119, 02-629-3353. Open Tue-Sun 9am-10pm.

Cafes   

Baan Phra Arthit Coffee & More

Built during the reign of King Rama 1, Baan Phra Athit was previously home to an old civil servant and it now shares a small portion of its rich heritage with this ground-floor coffee shop. The vibe is clean-cut but laidback, with couches, an in-house library and a delightful display of cakes. The menu offers a variety of coffee classics, salads and appetizers (B75-120) and an assortment of Thai dishes (B65). Coffee: B50, WIFI.
02-280-7879. Open Sun-Thu 10am-8:30pm; Fri-Sat 10am-10pm

Caffe Sonata

If you’re here on Phra Athit and find yourself missing the Thonglor vibe, try Caffe Sonata. The place goes for a vintage theme—antique clocks hanging on the wall and oxblood couches. The recommended fare is the homemade crepes available both savory and sweet. Try the fried ham and cream cheese crepe (B130), strawberry crepe with ice cream (B135) or spaghetti with bacon and chili (B130) if you’re hungry. Coffee: B60, WIFI.
089-039-0002. Open daily 8:30am-8pm

Starbung

The owner came to fame when he became embroiled in a copyright dispute with Starbucks who demanded he change the logo for his Starbung stall. And you know what, his coffee isn’t too bad. Of course, it doesn’t taste like Starbucks (but we might argue that’s a good thing), but it’s well worth what you pay—not to mention that warm, fuzzy feeling that comes with supporting the underdog. Coffee: B20.
Open Mon-Fri 8am-4pm

Ann's Sweet

Right across from Phra Sumen Fort, this bakery’s goodies just might transport you to Europe. The ingredients for their homemade cheesecake and mousse (B85-150) and their fruit teas (B60/cup, B110/pot) are imported from France, while the coffee comes from Italy. Coffee: B55
086-889-1383, 02-281-4228. Open Sun-Sat 10:30am-8pm

Foong

Run by a friendly couple who previously owned a coffee shop in faraway Chaengwattana but chose to return to the place they fell in love with when they were young, this café and bar serves up its own blend of coffee sourced from places like Kenya and Ethiopia. Hop in for a solid espresso or, if beer is more your thing, a Hoegaarden or Paulaner (B150-B180). There’s also short list of appetizers like French fries and chicken nuggets.Coffee: B55, WIFI.
080-049-7899. Open daily 8am-11pm

Ricky's Coffee Shop

A red umbrella marks out this coffee shop especially popular among tourists. The place has a certain Chinese vibe with hanging lanterns and some Chinese paintings on the wall. The single dishes are a hit, with the signature being the spaghetti bolognese (B100) and noodles (B70) option. The coffee is pretty good, too. Coffee: B40, Outdoor seating available.
02-629-0509. Open daily 8am-10pm

Shop

The Trapeze Swinger

Hidden in a small alley that connects Phra Arthit and Ram Butri roads, this is undoubtedly the coolest shop in the soi. A couple share their passion for all things retro by selling their exclusive collections of old-fashioned items, rock band t-shirts, old CDs and cassettes, even vinyl selections. The place has just opened up the second floor too, which is large and very hip, and the good news is that you can also enjoy a beer while you browse. Singha at B55 and Heineken at B65.
081-908-1381. Open Tue-Sun 1-10pm

Play

Santi Chaiprakarn Park

Even though the last mangrove apple tree is gone, you should still visit this park for its lush lawns and river breeze. Bring a book or drop by when there’s an exhibition at the nearby Phra Sumen Fort. It’s also worth making a note in your diary, that the Bangkok Theater Festival usually pops up annually around February. Visit www.bangkoktheatrenetwork.com for more details.

Stay

Riva Surya

Set on the riverside, the family behind the Chao Phraya Express boats have turned their decade-old serviced apartments into a 68-room hotel named after its prime location on Phra Arthit Road. The rooms are nicely decorated in a pale-grey hue, combining a Victorian style with modern touches. Rooms start from B3,300. See page 8 for its restaurant, Babble & Rum.
02-633-5000. www.rivasuryabangkok.com

Praya Palazzo

If you happen to drink till you drop annd feel the need for somewhere comfy and a bit adventurous, stay at Praya Palazzo, right across from Santi Chaiprakarn Park. Make a call to the hotel and they’ll pick you up from the Phra Arthit Pier using their shuttle boat. This restored 1920s Italian mansion was once a school and vacation home for nobility, and is worth a visit for the beautiful architecture alone. Part of the fun is checking out the old pictures of the place before it was lovingly brought back to life by architect Wichai Pitalworrarat. Rates start from B8,400 but do check with the hotel for their credit card promotions.
757/1 Somdej Phra Pinklao Soi 2, 02-883-2998, 02-322-9155. www.prayapalazzo.com

More Bars

Bua Sa Ard

Comme (081-860-9187), Apple (02-280-7578, 085-449-9093), Jerd Jarad (085-335-6355) and Bua Sa Ard (02-629-5055) all share a similar décor and vibe. We don’t think they really embrace of a Phra Arthit atmosphere, as they are more about cheesy pop tunes and cheap booze (hey, we’re not complaining!). The clientele is mainly young college students rocking up on their motorbikes, while the food includes all the classic Thai dishes.

JANUARY

Ministerial Pay Cut

Singapore’s leaders had a disappointing start to the year, with their multi-million-dollar salaries slashed by up to 53 per cent. A drastic cut, but not enough to dislodge them as the world’s best-paid politicians.

The World’s an Art Stage

The second edition of Art Stage proved to be another stellar one, where art lovers got to feast their eyes on masterpieces by the likes of Gerhard Richter, Damien Hirst and Tracey Emin, which weren’t displayed at regular art shows here.

High Tide

The ripples of discontent over the December Orchard Road flash floods had barely subsided, and with more floods happening in various parts of Singapore, such as Buangkok, Bukit Timah and Jurong, it’s safe to say that wellingtons and stilts remain essential wet weather equipment.

MARCH

U Wanted This

The launch of Japanese luxury streetwear brand Undercover’s collaboration line UU with high street brand Uniqlo sparked off a fashion frenzy, with queues outside the store at 313@somerset starting from 8am. Thankfully, the collection was actually pretty good.

APRIL

A Grave Sight

Exhumations began at Bukit Brown Cemetery, the oldest Chinese graveyard in Singapore, in line with plans to build an eight-lane expressway. The move threatens the historical and natural value of the place, as many pioneers such as Ang Seah Im and Chew Boon Lay are buried there, amidst a beautiful rainforest. So much for resting in peace.

Small Bait, Big Fish

When high-flying pimp Tang Boon Thiew was busted, a clientele list of 44 names was revealed. On it were a former school principal, an ex-cop and an environmental activist, all of whom have been charged for having sex with an underage prostitute. Naughty naughty…

For Real

Cultural Medallion recipient (and one of our most provocative visual and performance artists) Lee Wen finally got to hold a retrospective show at the Singapore Art Museum—Lee Wen: Lucid Dreams in the Reverie of the Real. One of the best curated shows this year, it spanned political video works and wonderful reproductions of installation pieces.

Man Enough

2011’s edition was a mess, so thankfully the team behind this year’s Men’s Fashion Week managed to get their act together, presenting a myriad of quality indie brands including Diet Butcher Slim Skin and Casely-Hayford, as well as emerging local ones like Reckless Ericka. Although we’re not too sure about all the tacky live music performances held between shows...

MAY

Moz Mania

Indie music fans rejoiced when Morrissey dropped in for a gig at Fort Canning Park (one of his few in Asia), playing all his solo signatures including “Everyday Is Like Sunday” and The Smiths classics like “Last Night I Dreamt that Somebody Loved Me”. Yes, some of us can finally die in peace.

Up at the Loof

More fun at the Loof when the rooftop bar reopened with a quirky redesign featuring The Mama Shop, which sells old-school knickknacks and unpredictable pub grub like Ramly burger and chili crab dip with fried mantou. Retrolicious.

JUNE

Scoot on over

Budget carrier Scoot launched its inaugural flight from Singapore to Sydney with more than 400 passengers and airline CEO Campbell Wilson on board the Boeing 777 plane. Despite a rather bumpy start—the flight was delayed by about two hours—good news came after landing: the airline announced they would also fly two new routes to Tokyo and Taipei.

Where the Street Has a Name

Local street and graffiti artist Samantha Lo aka SKLO was arrested for pasting stickers with slogans such as “Press Once Can Already” above traffic light buttons, as well as spray-painting the words “My Grandfather Road” on roads. The local authorities’ message? Stick to the right side of the road.

Religious Saga

Founder Pastor Kong Hee (aka Mr Sun Ho) of City Harvest Church, along with four other members, was arrested for allegedly misusing charity funds. The $24 million embezzled had been said to finance Sun Ho’s music career in glitzy Hollywood. So that’s how you put the “fun” into “funds”.

Garden Gotham

Singapore’s newest icon Gardens by the Bay threw open its doors on June 29. Featuring two domed conservatories and towering 50-meter-high steel Supertrees, the horticultural attraction fitted right in with the downtown landscape, naturally.

AUGUST

Big Brother Is Watching

To combat high-rise littering, the National Environment Agency announced that surveillance cameras will be set up at 100 locations across the city to catch the culprits. As the cameras will face the windows of housing block units, we say: don’t forget to smile for your close-ups!

Diner en Blah

Singapore was the city of choice for Asia’s very first Diner en Blanc, the all-white dining flash mob that has happened around the world. But it was the whole local-food-not-being-allowed fiasco that made the news: blogger Daniel Ang was uninvited because of his blog list of local dishes to bring, and later re-invited by the organizers.

SEPTEMBER

Hip Living

Glam rock hotel W Singapore opened, adding much liveliness to the far-off Sentosa Cove, with a spa and superb restaurants The Kitchen Table and Skirt that make it worthwhile to visit and stay.

Race to the Finish

Never mind the naysayers: This year’s F1 race was one of the most exciting yet, coupled with great live music acts like The Pretenders and The Proclaimers, and a series of exclusive parties. Plus, we’ve signed up for another five years, so deal with it.

Royal Wayang

When Prince William and Kate Middleton visited Singapore housing state Queenstown as part of Queen Elizabeth II’s Diamond Jubilee, the prince asked Member of Parliament Indranee Rajah if senior citizens really practiced tai chi at the playground. Her answer? “Yes, but not at 3pm in the afternoon.” Awkward.

Starry-eyed

The Star Performing Arts Centre opened with a star-studded concert featuring David Foster and Chaka Khan (and upcoming, Norah Jones!), and a slew of F&B establishments like Morganfield’s as well as alternative shopping options at nearby The Star Vista.

Bountiful Barracks

More great news for the local arts community when Gillman Barracks opened with 13 new art galleries. International works aside (who can forget those iconic photographs by Robert Mapplethorpe and the Annie Leibovitz show?), local artists like Donna Ong and Choy Ka Fai also got to hold solo shows.

OCTOBER

Unvalued

Local film fans missed the chance to catch Ken Kwek’s Sex.Violence.Family Values when it was banned from the local cinemas for depicting racial stereotypes, even if it did take home the Audience Award at New York’s Gotham Screen International Film Festival. Bummer.

Racebook

NTUC official Amy Cheong was fired for posting racially-insensitive comments (about Malay HDB void deck weddings), after which the union immediately posted a JobStreet ad for her position. Talk about dispensable.

NOVEMBER

Fab or Flop?

The biggest fashion collaboration of the year was—surprisingly—nowhere near to sold-out on launch day, though there had been a good handful who queued overnight for the H&M and Maison Martin Margiela re-editions collection.

Heaven Sent

Icelandic post-rock band Sigur Rós’ first gig here was transcendental.Fan favorites like “Hoppípolla” had the crowd in sing-alongs, and the band’s encore of “Popplagið” went perfectly with the pouring rain—a  magical concert moment.

Splashin’!

The Marine Life Park opened at RWS with over 100,000 marine animals in more than 60 million liters of water. Besides the S.E.A. Aquarium (the largest in the world), the park also has an Adventure Cove Waterpark, giving a new meaning to “swimming with the fishes”.

Strike Out

At least five SMRT bus drivers were charged in court and 29 given a stern warning, for being involved in an illegal strike. So to ensure your strike is legal, remember to give two weeks’ notice.

Furry Fun

The Giant Panda Forest opened at the Singapore Zoo, starring ursine couple Kai Kai and Jia Jia, who thrilled the crowds with their playful antics. Seems like the bears are settling in well—let’s hope their 10-year stay here will be most productive.

DECEMBER

Two to Tango

ZoukOut gave partygoers not one, but two electrifying nights this year. Hooray for this dance dance revolution!

The Garden

That's right, every Sunday your most faithful friend is allowed to tag along with you to Central Embassy's rooftop bar. Inspired by New York’s Madison Square Garden, this grand rooftop is home to pop-up bars from Water Library, Minibar and 27 St. plus a constant rotation of live music performances from local indie bands to hip-hop DJs. Dogs are allowed in The Garden from 4-10pm for Sunset Sundays, which promise a barbecue feast and live DJs from Kolour Krew. 

5/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 10am-10pm

Eatdustry

If you can’t be seen without your dog, you'll be please to hear that man’s best friend is welcome at one of the outdoor tables on the terrace. Offering an all-day breakfast spot with a killer egg's benedict, a cafe offering both imported and local coffee beans, a bakery serving light and airy strawberry waffles and a bar serving classic cocktails, this shop offers a little bit of everything all in one place. 

555/55 Thonglor Soi 19, 081-567-5544. Open daily 9am-10pm

D'ark (Emquartier)

The pet-friendly, outdoor seating at executive chef Jeriko Van Der Wolf and pastry chef Joffrey Jacob's latest cafe faces the mall’s central courtyard and large waterfall, offering a relaxing space for coffee or glass of wine. Drop by during brunch hours (until 6pm) to try the delicious Mornay duck eggs with smoked duck, crispy potato galette and smothered in truffle Mornay sauce (B280) followed by one of their excellent coffees. 

G/F, Emquartier, Sukhumvit Rd. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong

Kiosk Cafe (Barkyard BKK) 

The on-site cafe at the city's premier "dog-centric- community space" provides plenty of western food, coffee and fresh drinks. Aside from this eatery, the area offers plenty of services for dogs, including daycare, swimming, training and grooming. 

The Barkyard BKK, 084-874-2777, Sukhumvit Soi 26. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm

Coccola Cafe

Run by the people behind the Coccola online pet shop, this new pet-friendly cafe has turned its downstairs into a pet product display complete with a space where you can have lunch with your dog. Amid the simple white decor, enjoy fusion Thai dishes like chicken green curry spaghetti (B150) and chicken with cashew nuts (B120). The herbal drinks (B45) and panna cotta with your choice of sauce (B85) are worth a try, too. 

111/1 Thonglor Soi 5, 02-712-8225. Open daily 10am-6pm. www.coccolapet.com 

Cataholic Café

From the outside Cataholic seems like an ordinary café, but step inside and you’ll find yourself in the presence of countless cats. Sit on the floor level cushions and stroke Felix and pals while you munch on honey toast or sip the signature drinks Matcha Maew Maew (green tea with soda) and Let Me Fishing (strawberry creamcheese taiyaki with whipped cream). The shop also has a little decor/accessories section as well as clothing from local designers. Dessert starts from B35 and drinks from B65.

2/F, Ozono, Sukhumvit Soi 39. 089-851-6500. Open Tue-Sun 11am-9pm

Coffee Puppy 

This real "pet cafe" is truly for our four-legged friends (although, there is a separate human menu). Recommended doggy dishes include the cheese burger (B120) with real beef topped with grated parmesan and melting cheddar, the amazing dog sushi (rice and liver paste wrapped in seaweed, B140). Be warned, the food is so good looking, you might find it hard to tell which is for dogs and which is for people.

36/4 Chaeng Watthana Rd, 02-982-6519. Open Tue-Sun 11am-8pm. www.facebook.com/coffeepuppy 

Chico

Tucked away on Sukhumvit Soi 53, Chico is a restaurant and cafe in one corner and home decor shop in another. The homey venue makes for a very cozy atmosphere, evoking a Japanese-style living room through its use of simple blond wood. Dishes are similarly low-key and Japanese: spaghetti with mushrooms, Omu rice, Japanese instant noodles and desserts like waffles and homemade cakes. The cats sleeping or prancing around mostly belong to the owner but others are just waiting for their owner to finish up eating. Food starts from B160, drinks from B60 and dessert from B120.

109 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-258-6557. BTS Thonglor. Open Wed-Mon, 9:30am-6pm

K Village

The K Village community mall allows dogs and (if you're weird) cats, in case you hadn’t noticed the many Khun Nuu ambling about clutching a Chihuahua or two. The venue also hosts dog-related activities such as a dog fashion show, dog and owner photo contests and dog charity projects. There are even a couple of pet shops that will babysit your dog while you eat or shop.

Sukhumvit Soi 26, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-258-9919. Open daily 10am-10pm.

Purr Cat Café Club

Purr Cat Cafe features a cat grooming salon, cafe and gallery. Grooming starts from B450 and a signature groom for pageant competitions starts from B500. The cafe itself serves bakery treats (for us) and cat food. There are actually two zones: one for owners to bring their own cats and one where people can play with the store’s own furry friends. In the gallery, you can purchase cat-themed artworks created by the owner.

Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-108-3604. Open Tue-Thu 11am-8pm and 11am-9pm on weekends.

Ozono

Situated in Phrom Phong, this is an animal loving community mall and a park for pets. The three-rai space is home to furniture stores, cafés, beauty parlors and eateries; while the remaining two-rai space provides a park for your pets (both cats & dogs members only), membership fee is B300 per day and B1,500 per month.
Sukhumvit Soi 39, Sukhumvit Rd., BTS Phrom Phong, 02-259-2788. Open daily 10am-8pm.

Twinkle Pet Shop

This hi-so kennel just opened up in Ekkamai. Twinkle Pet Shop offer more than the usual dog groom and care, for the venue also serves as a café, dog accessories shop, dog-themed furniture and décor store and hotel for man’s best friend. So while Lucky gets a trim, sip on some Japanese coffee and browse the accessories imported from Japan, Italy and Singapore. Grooming starts from B600 and the dog spa using micro or nano bubbles to relax and destress your loyal companion starts at B100. They also plan to open a Japanese-style dog clinic by 2013.
Parklane, Sukhumvit Soi 61, 02-382-1124. Open Mon-Fri 10:30am-6:30pm on Sat-Sun 10:30am-8:30pm

Or if you want to make a trip out of town...

Mirabel Resort 

This boutique resort aims to cater to every member of the family—including pooches. Aside from a mini-golf course, massage area, on-site restaurant and giant swimmable chemical-free biopool, this resort also has a separate swimming area for your furry friend. An additional B400 is added to your total accomadation costs per day for those bringing a pet along. 

114/14 Moo 8, Nongprue, Pattaya, 084-149-2186

The Salted Pig

Owned by the folks behind steakhouse Shore (located on the floors above), The Salted Pig is all about European-style comfort food—and pork, of course. The pork knuckle sandwich is a signature, but you’ll also find beef and chicken dishes.
2/F, The L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 852-2870-2323.

Red Almond

Red Almond, Aqua group’s latest venture, serves up fiery Sichuan dishes that use the signature ma la peppercorn flavors as a foundation. Chili beef, pork dumplings and ma la tofu are examples of what’s on offer.
Shop 1402, 14/F, Hysan Place, 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 852-2155-2872.

Carnevino

Celebrity chef Mario Batali and Dining Concepts’ latest project, Carnevino, focuses on steak and fine wines. Located right on top of Lupa (Batali and Dining Concepts’ first collaboration), the space gives off an old boys’ club vibe, with masculine touches and lots of wood and leather. In short, it’s a proper steakhouse. Expect USDA prime cuts accompanied with artisanal salt, and lots of starchy sides like Tuscan fries, mashed potatoes and creamed corn.
5/F, LHT Tower, 31 Queen’s Rd. Central, 852-2532-7700.

Socialito

Latin American cuisine is on fire in Hong Kong these days, and Socialito is hopping on the bandwagon with Mexican specialist Socialito, serving up tacos and margaritas all night long in the midst of Hong Kong’s bustling nightlife district.
Shop 2, G/F, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham St., Central, 852-3167-7380.

L’Altro

French-Italian chef Philippe Leveille of Michelin-star fame has set up shop at The L Place, offering authentic Italian fare with just a bit of French influence. Carefully crafted scampi tartare, seafood pastas and quail are just some of the dishes Leveille will be cooking up.
10/F, The L Place, 137-141 Queen’s Rd. Central, 852-2555-9100.

The Dining Room

The well-liked Shanghai Min group has just opened a new contemporary-style Shanghainese restaurant in Causeway Bay, serving braised crispy pork buns, pumpkin cakes and other specialties in a modern, open setting.
Shop 1201, 12/F, Hysan Place, 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 852-2648-2299.

Panevino

This quaint Italian restaurant’s first location in the Mid-Levels is doing so well that it will be expanding with a second branch in Tai Hang. If this new venue is anything like the original, expect hearty appetizers and tasty pastas in warm, romantic surrounds.
36-40 Tung Lo Wan Rd., Tai Hang.

Le Salon

Well-known restaurateur/chef Tony Cheng’s latest project is a French-themed eatery that comes with its own croissanterie and café on the side. Serving classic French dishes, Le Salon is the type of restaurant you’d want to dress up for. Don’t leave without trying the croissants, stuffed with things like caramel, chocolate and chestnut.
Shop 1302, 13/F, Hysan Place, 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 852-2115-3328.

Ask the Experts

We asked Hong Kong’s top chefs to dish out on their favorite spots (when they’re not in the kitchen, of course).

Jason Green, Three on Canton

I love Kenjo on Minden Avenue. The freshness, quality and interaction with guests make it one of the best dining experiences I’ve had. I really like Life Café in SoHo, too. Great coffee and smoothies.

Jacky Yeung, Nam Fong

Local food stalls sate my appetite, and fish balls are my favorite. I enjoy the food stalls in Sham Shui Po—they [represent] the collective memory of the Hong Kong people.

Masakazu Ushio, Inakaya

I like cha chaan tengs [local diners]—
like Tsui Wah, for example. I like milk tea and the fried noodles with beef; they represent something unique about Hong Kong food culture.

Mark Bannon, The Langham

Enoteca on Elgin Street: always consistent; good service and great value for money. For great coffee, Cafe Loisl in Sheung Wan. Din Tai Fung. Megan’s Kitchen for hotpot.