Nightlife

Barbali

Style-wise, Barbali goes for that exposed brick look, and there’s also a gallery on the second floor. In addition to booze, the place offers many international dishes such as spaghetti with fat head shrimp (B120) and green curry with salted egg served with rice (B90). There’s live acoustic music late on weekends, and lately, the bar has been exhibiting paintings and photos by local university students and artists. Beer: B90, Cocktails: B120, Outdoor seating available
Great for: Those who like art and alcohol.
02-629-0318. Open daily from 5pm-midnight.

Dickinson's

Owned by the family behind legendary electro havens Club Culture and Café Democ, Dickinson’s offers more danceable tunes, from dubstep to progressive house and drum n’ bass, than their neighbors, in a two-story space filled with colorful retro sofas and some tables on the sidewalk. Drinks-wise, the focus is on martinis such as the Culture Martini (vodka, Malibu, orange and pineapple juice, B150).  Beer: B90, Cocktails: B140, Outdoor seating available
Great for: Hipsters and those who have had enough of pop tunes.
089-497-8422. Open Mon-Fri noon-1am; Sat-Sun 5pm-1am

Good Story

A little more lavish and romantic than their competition, this place manages to stand out from the others with their green glass door and European influences. The food is quite good here, if you don’t get filled up by the guay jub yuan noodles (see page 8) next door. Try the salmon topped with seafood sauce (B170), deep-fried chicken (B140) and seabass in tom yam (B160). If you’re bored of Chang, there’s a decent list of German and Belgian beers like Erdinger, Hoegaarden and Duvel.  Beer: B70, Cocktails: B150, Outdoor seating available
Great for: Dates and group of girl friends chitchatting thanks to a background of easy-pop tunes.
02-629-2924. Open daily 11-1am

Jazz Happens Bar

This well-known jazz influenced bar is run by a group of lecturers from the Faculty of Jazz at Silapakorn University with the aim of providing a stage for talented young musicians, including their own students. Apart from live jazz every day, the bar offers classic drinks and a Thai food menu for dinner.  Beer: B110, Cocktails: B120, Outdoor seating available
Great for: Students and jazz lovers.
02-282-9934, 084-450-0505. Open daily from 7pm-12:30am.

Hemlock

One of the original hip spots to have sprung up on this road, Hemlock boasts an all-white minimalist interior with a small rock garden in the middle. The intimate lighting and soft jazz tunes add to the chilled-out atmosphere, while the dining area doubles as a gallery, with rotating work by local artists displayed on the walls. The menu is pretty thick but we do recommend trying the khao hor bai bua (stir-fried rice wrapped with lotus leaf, B120) and most of the nampriks. Beer: B70, Cocktails: B120
Great for: A cool hangout spot with your foreign friends.
02-282-7507. Open Mon-Sat 4pm-midnight

Glasses Bar

The final bar on Phra Arthit Road before you get to Phra Sumen Road, Glasses Bar keeps the retro local vibe alive with white-washed wooden tables. And we definitely recommend you sit inside as next door’s music can get a little too loud. Beer: B100, Cocktails: B100, Outdoor seating available
Great for: Phra Sumen Fort watchers.
089-499-4648. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am

Mango

Another offering retro decor that mixes and matches frames and knick-knacks for a nostalgic living room atmosphere. Mango offers all-day dining that sticks mainly to resolutely Thai dishes like deep-fried spare ribs and tom yam, while some healthy juice is available out front. Wi-Fi is also available. Coffee: B65, WIFI,  Outdoor seating available
Great for: More mature people seeking a quiter night.
086-393-2061. Open daily 9am-11pm

Eat

Escapade Burgers & Shakes (BK PICK)

A strong contender for the best burgers in town, Escapade is crammed into a tiny shophouse with an equally petite garden out the back. Mixologist Karn Liangsrisuk and Chef Van Rohitratana whip up some strong and creative cocktails and juicy burgers. Pull up a stool at the tiny bar and ask for the new ingredients on the food side or the homemade liquors on the bar side. We recommend an Angus beef burger (B180) with homemade ketchup or the Quarter cow (two beef patties, two slices of cheddar cheese with truffle sauce, B280.) Be prepared to meet some new friends, at this homey but small setting has diners practically sitting on top of one another.  Beer: B80, Cocktails: B140, Outdoor seating available
087-363-2629, 081-406-3773. Open Tue-Sun 12pm-midnight

Salad on Demand

This area may have loads of places to drink and grab some greasy pub grub, but they sure don’t have much choice when it comes to a healthy meal. Located amid the slew of bars here, you’ll spot a bike in front of a small, white shop. Step inside for some low-fat dishes. All the salad dressings here are oil-free because they only use vegetable stock. Our recommendation is the sesame sauce (B55 for five vegetables with dressing).
02-629-3982. Open daily 8am-9pm

Somsong Pochana

Just past Sumen Fort, this 40-year-old spot is best-known for their noodles in the Sukhothai style, but wait, we’re here to tell you that that their unknown treasure is actually the pla dook pad ped (stir-fried catfish with peppers and chili, B50) which is bursting with well-balanced flavors and a peppery aroma. Reconnect with your inner grandma by ordering the kanom jeen sao nam (rice vermicelli with coconut milk, dried shrimp and pineapple, B40) and the hard-to-find khao fang piak (millet with coconut milk, B25). Do call ahead as some dishes sometimes run out before 2pm.
112 Soi Wat Sangwet, 02-282-0972. Open daily 9:30am-4pm

Soay

Soay has been a popular guay tiew nuea (beef noodles) spot for decades. The place is now run by the cute second generation owner who continues to serve this succulently mild beef soup. The shophouse is filled with photos of visiting stars, while the menu is also in Korean, which goes to show just who packs out the place. Your bowl of noodles (B40) comes with juicy beef and properly cleaned entrails. The best news is that the owners tell us they’ll soon open at night for drinkers.
083-495-3129, 081-487-9359, 086-982-9042. Open daily 8am-6pm (except the second and last Wednesday of the month)

Aquatini

This cozy restaurant is an ideal spot to enjoy a cocktail by the river. There is an air-con area, but we say stick to the al fresco terrace and revel in the river view and fresh breeze. Service can be a bit laidback, but the spacious layout affords intimacy for a romantic, easygoing dinner—quite a rarity on this road. The menu offers a variety of pocket-friendly Thai and international dishes. Start your night with a signature Aquatini Dream (rum, pineapple juice and triple sec, Beer: B10, Cocktails: B140, Outdoor seating available
Navalai River Resort, 02-280-9955. Open daily 6:30pm-1am. www.navalai.com.

Babble & Rum (BK PICK)

Riva Surya’s restaurant and bar, Babble & Rum, is decked out in a contemporary French décor. Visit at sunset for the full deal: comfort food, tasty cocktails and views that take in the river and two bridges (Pinklao and Rama 8). Lie on the daybed and ask for the recommended dishes like the smoked salmon and avocado salad (B290), best enjoyed with cocktails like the candy-flavored Jelly Riva (vodka, melon syrup, lime juice on top of jelly, B280) and Jamaican Fizz (vodka, mango fizz, mango, syrup and lime juice, B280). Quite possibly the best spot for a breezy night out on Phra Arthit Road.  Beer: B99, Cocktails: B250, Outdoor seating available
02-633-5000. www.rivasuryabangkok.com. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm

Khun Dang Guay Jub Yuan

The special ingredients brought down from Ubon Ratchathani are the selling point of this shophouse. The noodle dishes are cooked one by one along with your choice of different toppings like eggs and mushrooms. Even though portions are not very big, the gooey soup is just amazing, plus the moo yor (sausage) is peppery and fragrant thanks to the quality pork meat. Make sure to get a seat on the footpath if you don’t want to get all sweaty inside the steamy shophouse.
085-246-0111, 089-056-5777. Open Mon-Sat 11am-9pm

Roti-Mataba

Opened as a street stall by an Indian immigrant after World War II, this Thai Muslim establishment later moved to its present location. Set in a simple two-story shophouse, Roti-Mataba’s fame has now spread far and wide, which means it’s often packed and you may well have to wait for a table before you can sample its made-to-order Islamic fare. The crowds of backpackers, office workers and night owls come for the namesake matabas (starting from B30) and a range of curries and roti with different fillings (from B15)—all made right in front of you in the open kitchen. Our favorites have to be the salad khaek (Middle Eastern salad, B60) and the mataba with mixed filling (B60).
02-282-2119, 02-629-3353. Open Tue-Sun 9am-10pm.

Cafes   

Baan Phra Arthit Coffee & More

Built during the reign of King Rama 1, Baan Phra Athit was previously home to an old civil servant and it now shares a small portion of its rich heritage with this ground-floor coffee shop. The vibe is clean-cut but laidback, with couches, an in-house library and a delightful display of cakes. The menu offers a variety of coffee classics, salads and appetizers (B75-120) and an assortment of Thai dishes (B65). Coffee: B50, WIFI.
02-280-7879. Open Sun-Thu 10am-8:30pm; Fri-Sat 10am-10pm

Caffe Sonata

If you’re here on Phra Athit and find yourself missing the Thonglor vibe, try Caffe Sonata. The place goes for a vintage theme—antique clocks hanging on the wall and oxblood couches. The recommended fare is the homemade crepes available both savory and sweet. Try the fried ham and cream cheese crepe (B130), strawberry crepe with ice cream (B135) or spaghetti with bacon and chili (B130) if you’re hungry. Coffee: B60, WIFI.
089-039-0002. Open daily 8:30am-8pm

Starbung

The owner came to fame when he became embroiled in a copyright dispute with Starbucks who demanded he change the logo for his Starbung stall. And you know what, his coffee isn’t too bad. Of course, it doesn’t taste like Starbucks (but we might argue that’s a good thing), but it’s well worth what you pay—not to mention that warm, fuzzy feeling that comes with supporting the underdog. Coffee: B20.
Open Mon-Fri 8am-4pm

Ann's Sweet

Right across from Phra Sumen Fort, this bakery’s goodies just might transport you to Europe. The ingredients for their homemade cheesecake and mousse (B85-150) and their fruit teas (B60/cup, B110/pot) are imported from France, while the coffee comes from Italy. Coffee: B55
086-889-1383, 02-281-4228. Open Sun-Sat 10:30am-8pm

Foong

Run by a friendly couple who previously owned a coffee shop in faraway Chaengwattana but chose to return to the place they fell in love with when they were young, this café and bar serves up its own blend of coffee sourced from places like Kenya and Ethiopia. Hop in for a solid espresso or, if beer is more your thing, a Hoegaarden or Paulaner (B150-B180). There’s also short list of appetizers like French fries and chicken nuggets.Coffee: B55, WIFI.
080-049-7899. Open daily 8am-11pm

Ricky's Coffee Shop

A red umbrella marks out this coffee shop especially popular among tourists. The place has a certain Chinese vibe with hanging lanterns and some Chinese paintings on the wall. The single dishes are a hit, with the signature being the spaghetti bolognese (B100) and noodles (B70) option. The coffee is pretty good, too. Coffee: B40, Outdoor seating available.
02-629-0509. Open daily 8am-10pm

Shop

The Trapeze Swinger

Hidden in a small alley that connects Phra Arthit and Ram Butri roads, this is undoubtedly the coolest shop in the soi. A couple share their passion for all things retro by selling their exclusive collections of old-fashioned items, rock band t-shirts, old CDs and cassettes, even vinyl selections. The place has just opened up the second floor too, which is large and very hip, and the good news is that you can also enjoy a beer while you browse. Singha at B55 and Heineken at B65.
081-908-1381. Open Tue-Sun 1-10pm

Play

Santi Chaiprakarn Park

Even though the last mangrove apple tree is gone, you should still visit this park for its lush lawns and river breeze. Bring a book or drop by when there’s an exhibition at the nearby Phra Sumen Fort. It’s also worth making a note in your diary, that the Bangkok Theater Festival usually pops up annually around February. Visit www.bangkoktheatrenetwork.com for more details.

Stay

Riva Surya

Set on the riverside, the family behind the Chao Phraya Express boats have turned their decade-old serviced apartments into a 68-room hotel named after its prime location on Phra Arthit Road. The rooms are nicely decorated in a pale-grey hue, combining a Victorian style with modern touches. Rooms start from B3,300. See page 8 for its restaurant, Babble & Rum.
02-633-5000. www.rivasuryabangkok.com

Praya Palazzo

If you happen to drink till you drop annd feel the need for somewhere comfy and a bit adventurous, stay at Praya Palazzo, right across from Santi Chaiprakarn Park. Make a call to the hotel and they’ll pick you up from the Phra Arthit Pier using their shuttle boat. This restored 1920s Italian mansion was once a school and vacation home for nobility, and is worth a visit for the beautiful architecture alone. Part of the fun is checking out the old pictures of the place before it was lovingly brought back to life by architect Wichai Pitalworrarat. Rates start from B8,400 but do check with the hotel for their credit card promotions.
757/1 Somdej Phra Pinklao Soi 2, 02-883-2998, 02-322-9155. www.prayapalazzo.com

More Bars

Bua Sa Ard

Comme (081-860-9187), Apple (02-280-7578, 085-449-9093), Jerd Jarad (085-335-6355) and Bua Sa Ard (02-629-5055) all share a similar décor and vibe. We don’t think they really embrace of a Phra Arthit atmosphere, as they are more about cheesy pop tunes and cheap booze (hey, we’re not complaining!). The clientele is mainly young college students rocking up on their motorbikes, while the food includes all the classic Thai dishes.