Unpasteurized creme fraiche with brioche
Water Library is definitely Bangkok’s boldest culinary experience since Gaggan opened last year. You have to show up on time, sit at a bar, and all the dishes are brought out for all the diners simultaneously (B6,600 for 12 courses, B8,400 with wine, B16,800 with superior wines). What food, though! Despite the modern (or “molecular”) touches, what really blew us away was a simple dish of resolutely non-local food. Unpasteurized sour cream from Normandie is flown in (that stuff spoils fast) along with unpasteurized butter. Top the butter with a slice of truffle, serve with an amazing homemade brioche (a kind of bread-like cake) and you’ve got a simply stunning mouthful of flavors. Their menus rotate often, though, so check with them to see what they’ll actually be serving on the night you visit.
Grass, 264/1 Thonglor Soi 12, Bangkok, 02-714-9292-3. Open daily 6pm-1am; dinner starts at 7:30pm sharp.
Somtam Sakon Nakorn
Somtum Der (and Thai Lao Yeh, next) are a new breed of well-designed, mid to upper-scale restaurants that actually want to outdo street food in terms of their authenticity. They claim that Bangkokian’s wimpy palates have made the Isaan food served in town too heavy on the sugar and MSG—and we tend to agree. Instead, Somtum Der doesn’t shy from potent (if pasteurized, for your stomach’s safety) pla raa (a kind of fermented fish). Its star dish would have to be the somtam Sakon Nakorn (B65) which is served with freshwater crab, cold noodles and kratin beans. The play on textures and the balance of fire (the chilis) and cool (the noodles and green papaya) is perfection.
5/5 Sala Daeng Rd., 02-632-4499. Open daily 11am-10pm
Kob Tord (Fried Frog)
Thai Lao Yeh does fiery Lao, Northern, Isaan and a few Southern dishes in an elegant boutique hotel that’s meant to evoke the home of an affluent family living somewhere in 1920s Asia. Its flavors are loud and clear, as opposed to the more rounded, five-flavor Central Thai cooking. The fried frog in lemongrass, garlic and peppercorn (B160) is one such dish, and an absolute must try in our book. It neatly balances herbal with oily, and crispy (the little bones in the frog meat, the kaffir lime leaves) with tender (the incredibly fresh peppercorn, the perfectly cooked slivers of garlic).
14/29 Sukhumvit Soi 45, Bangkok, 02-259-2871-3. Open daily 11am-2pm, 6-10:30pm
Pla Too Tord (Fried Mackerel)
The owner, Thanaruek Laoraowirodge, brings his family cooking from Khon Kaen to Bangkok. The menu is simply based on what his grandmother used to cook up at home—Thai food that borrows both from her hometown, Trat, and where the family lives, Khon Kaen. Platoo tord (B160) is definitely a humble, homey dish—the kind that creates instant flashbacks to your childhood when done well. What makes Supanniga’s particularly amazing is the fish sauce from Trat. It’s so aromatic, we kept sniffing it like some glue junkies. The texture of the fish is also very pleasant—perfectly crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. Together with a plate of rice, this is one simple, nostalgic way to welcome judgement day with a calm, content outlook.
160/11 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (between Thonglor Sois 6 and 8), Bangkok, 02-714-7508. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-11:30pm
Gaeng Kua Hoy Kong Talay Bai Som PEn Kee Maa
(Andaman abalone in curry paste served with Southern leaf)
Owned by Can Markawat, the second-generation owner of Thai restaurant Naj (on Soi Convent), The Local is dedicated to cooking up rare recipes and utilizing regional Thai ingredients. The abalone in the gaeng kua hoy kong talay bai som pan kee maa (B280) is from the South and is actually out of season right now (they currently replace it with fish). But since time is running out, you should still try this dish if only for its amazing curry. Pungent, flavorful and very rich, it coats the accompanying bai som pen kee ma (a type of green found in the South) to create this perfect combination of smoothness and slight bitterness.
32-32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, Bangkok, 02-664-3360-1. Opend daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm
Grilled Chicken
This has definitely been a year were Thai food has come to the forefront, and Chon is another one of the impressive list of new Thai restaurants. It sits in a traditional Thai house which Jim Thompson had found for a friend. Moreover, part of the most luxurious hotel opening of the year, The Siam, and the kitchen is handled by Executive Chef Blair Mathieson (formerly at the Chedi in Chiang Mai). Never mind his name, the man can definitely whip up delicious, authentic Thai food. Our favorite is the grilled chicken (B320)—nicely charred and crisp on the outside yet totally juicy and tender inside. Flavors, thanks to the corn-fed chicken and tumeric rub, are just as exciting.
The Siam Hotel, 3/2 Khao Rd., Bangkok, 02-206-6999. www.thesiamhotel.com. Open daily noon-11pm
Mien with beef in Szechuan style
The lead actor of this new mall venue might be the eight-color xiao long bao (dumpling with soup) with its recipe imported from the original restaurant in Singapore, but our heart is truly taken with their mien (noodles). The noodles with marbled beef in Szechuan style (B235) have us licking the bowl clean every time. The homemade noodles are made fresh daily with just the right amount of egg, the beef is tender and fatty and the broth is simply addictive.
4/F, Paragon, 991/1 Rama 1 Rd., Bangkok, 02-129-4411. Open daily 10am-10pm
Pot Au Feu Terrine
As much as we love tracking trends, we also love old school places like Le Beaulieu, where Chef Herve Frerard continues to cook totally traditional French food without the slightest traces of emulsification, foams or spherification. Not that he’s adverse to new techniques (he uses a lot of sous-vide cooking now) but he keeps it very discreet. One perfect illustration of his subtle inventiveness is his pot-au-feu terrine (B490). The traditional dish sees meat and vegetables boiled in a big pot, and is delicious both hot and, the day after, cold. Here, Frerard takes the pot-au-feu’s carrots and meat and layers them in a terrine. It feels like something a French grandmother would do to recycle leftovers. It’s also bursting with layers of textures and flavors. Delicieux. And if you haven’t seen Frerard’s elegant new space at the Plaza Athenee, that’s two good reasons to pay him a visit (go for lunch if you don’t drive a BMW or Ferrari).
G/F, Athenee Office Tower, 63 Witthayu (Wireless) Rd., Bangkok, 02-168-8220-3. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-11:30pm
Gung Mae Nam Rad Prik
(river prawn topped with chili paste)
Sala Rin Nam is a Thai buffet with touristy performances in the evening. Not the kind of place you’d be caught dead in. But the chef’s table (B2,900 for 6 courses, B3,900 for 9 courses), which launched early this year, is a different story. It sees 4-12 people seated at a table in the kitchen of Sala Rim Naam, with your food cooked by Chef Vichit Mukura, a renowned master of his craft. Most of the quality ingredients either come from his own rice field, farmers he knows personally or Or Tor Kor market. His Thai dishes bring out the natural flavors of these carefully curated ingredients, but being in contact with the chef also means you get a personalized master class in what you’re eating. Since we have to pick one dish, we’d recommend you beg the chef for the plump, wonderfully fresh river prawns in his gung mae naam rad prik. They’re from Ranong and they taste amazing; but it’s also the chili and dok kajorn (cowslip creeper flower) they’re cooked with that combine to bring out their sweet goodness without overpowering it.
Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental Ave., Charoen Krung Rd., Bangkok, 02-659-9000. Open for dinner only by reservation.
ReUben Sandwich
The couple behind most people’s favorite Mexican, La Monita (situated next door), Billy Bautista and Kasama Laopanich, just started El Osito a couple of months ago. The plan is to recreate the kind of food they miss from their time in San Francisco. While it might be a tapas place in the evenings, we’ve been much more taken by the choice of sandwiches at lunchtime. The huge pastrami sandwich (B250) might offer tasty pink pastrami with a lovely touch of pepper, but come the end of the universe, we’d have to plump for the monstrous Reuben (B250)—a gorgeous, truly monstrous, meaty sandwich filled to the brim with delicious homemade corned beef and served between two hearty slices of rye bread
Mahatun Plaza, 888/23-24 Ploenchit Rd., Bangkok, 02-651-4399. BTS Ploenchit. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-3pm; 5-11pm
Spaghetti with lobster
Founded in 1984 in swanky Knightsbridge, London, and now also found in Kuwait and Lebanon, this is the restaurant’s third global branch. Signor Sassi’s focus is resolutely Italian, with the food covering the classics from pasta to antipasti, and the decor offering touches like the Venetian carnival masks and elegant tableware. It might sound a bit derivative but this place has a number of things going for it, not least the impeccable service, impressive wine list, and relatively affordable prices given the spacious 37th floor outdoor terrace. What’s more, we also happen to be big fans of their global signature dish: spaghetti with lobster (B1,180). The wonderfully al dente pasta is served on the lobster shell and comes with a light sauce that really lets the fresh, succulent and meaty lobster truly shine.
37/F, Anantara Bangkok Sathorn, Narathiwas Rd., Bangkok, 02-210-9011. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 12-2:30pm; 6-10:30pm
Ceviche a la Thai
We’ve had a crush on Julien Lavigne’s food ever since we tasted it at D’Sens. Since then he’s gone on to open Oskar, and now a second place, Gossip, which oozes Thonglor cool. The food here is influenced by his Franco-Italian roots. But really, his ability to pull off the dreaded f-word (fusion!) goes well beyond the Mediterranean. Our favorite is his hamachi ceviche a la Thai (B260). It’s the best of three worlds: tender, fatty, fresh raw fish (Japanese style) is lightly “cooked” by dousing it in lime (Peruvian style) and seasoned with a touch of lemongrass (Thai-style).
313 Thonglor Soi 15, Bangkok, 02-185-3093. Open daily 4pm-1am
Chili glazed baby back ribs
OK, we admit that this place actually opened last year, but it was in December and we’re such fans of this inventive Thai restaurant, set in a beautiful and bright old mansion, we wanted to sneak it in anyway. The hardest part was actually deciding which dishes created by celeb-chef Ian Kittichai we’d plump for: the artfully presented yum nuar (B320), the sweet, spicy and refreshing yum hua plee (heart of palm and bamboo flower salad, B260) or the exciting and tasty traditional Thai sweets. In the end we plumped for something a little more hearty, a mountainous portion of the kradook moo aob (B380), delicious chili glazed baby back ribs that are fall-off-the-bone tender and decadently sticky and sweet.
4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chue Pleong Rd., Bangkok, 02-672-9040-1. www.issaya.com. Open daily 11:30am-3pm, 6pm-midnight.
Roast baby carrots with shallot, honey, poppy seeds and thyme
After Jess Barnes left Grossi, his return to Bangkok was marked by a pork-laden dinner full of marrow, rillette, blood sausage, tripe—you name it. Ironically, now that he’s firmly ensconced at the charming space of Quince, Barnes is perhaps one of the city’s greatest masters at cooking vegetables. His roast carrots (B150), for example, are just as exciting as any chunk of cow or pig. Tender and slightly twisted, they get an added sweetness from the honey and an extra crunch from the poppy seeds. Lightly sprinkle on some of the rock sea salt and you’ve got a simple taste of heaven.
Sukhumvit Soi 45, Bangkok, 02-662-4478. Open daily 11:30-1am
This place is steering well clear of the tired wine bar trend and dubs itself a sake bar. Located in the aesthetically appealing Park Ventures building, the food isn’t miles away from classic Japanese, but why you really need to come before Dec 21st is the free-flow deal. Its costs B790 for two hours (available anytime) and covers a selection of four types of sake. We also recommend the happy hours, where B550 (available at 5-7pm) gets you a selection of three sakes (150ml each) and lovely nibbles like fried lotus chips.
G/F, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Witthayu (Wireless) Rd., Bangkok, 02-108-2255. Open Mon-Thu 11:30am-10pm; Fri-Sun 11:30am-midnight
Come the end of the world, our top burger pick would probably be Firehouse on Sukhumvit Soi 11. But we would like one last sip of 25 Degree’s adults-only spiked milkshakes. The Night Owl (Kahlua, chocolate liqueur and vanilla ice cream, B250), in particular, is a decadent delight. There’s also the cream soda with Maker’s Mark (B220). The best part? They’re open 24/7, so you know where to go on Dec 21st at midnight.
G/F, Pullman G Hotel, 188 Silom Rd., Bangkok, 02-238-1991. Open 24 hrs.
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Luxa2, Panasonic, Xtreme Mac. 3/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000. BTS Siam.
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The deal: B2,200 for free-flow of wines and beers and B3,200 with sakes and Champagne.
The selection: This is pretty pure Japanese food with the exception of Zuma’s signature rolls. And what better hangover cure than some ice-cold soba noodles and fresh tofu? Oddly, the sushi counter is perhaps the least exciting, due to a limited selection, but you really can’t complain about the quality of the hamashi (our favorite), salmon and tuna on offer. As for the drinks, that Champagne is pretty sexy stuff, especially when paired with fine de claire oysters. There’s also free-flow sake, a rare touch for a brunch. Once you’re done munching on the appetizers, you get one incredibly well-executed main (you do get to pick from a half-dozen options) that’s brought to your table. Desserts, too, are served a la carte.
The vibe: Zuma’s monumental use of massive logs and slabs of stone is a pretty stark departure from the usual attempts at cozy, retro interior décor everyone else is up to. Not too busy, and without a kid in sight, the brunch also lives up to Zuma’s reputation as the cool rebel of Japanese dining.
Who is it for: Couples who’d like to avoid having to elbow past grandmas and kids carrying plates of pasta and foie gras. And those who’d rather get a few things at a really high quality point than pig out on a zillion different cuisines.
St. Regis Bangkok, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-252-4707. BTS Ratchadamri. Brunch every Sun 11am-3pm
The deal: Starts from B1,800 for the buffet and all-you-can-eat a la carte menus served to your table, plus soft drinks. If you’re in the mood to celebrate, opt for B2,400 for free-flow cocktails (Mai Tai, mojito, blue margarita or martini), wines and beers or B3,200 with all drinks (two people get one bottle of Veuve clicquot, too).
The selection: Though they’re under the umbrella of this very Japanese hotel, Up & Above is serving up a fairly standard international buffet. As is becoming increasingly trendy, there are also mains you can order from the kitchen, with options such as Maine lobster roasted with Hollandaise butter sauce and served with ink pasta or 150-day tenderloin steak. Fret not, foie gras, roasted lamb racks and Wagyu prime rib are served non-stop though, so you shouldn’t go hungry. There’s also a vast selection of seafood, from Boston lobster, big razor mussels from Japan, oysters and Alaskan king crab. The sushi bar is stocked by Yamazato, their flagship Japanese eatery. Of note, the chu toro (medium fatty tuna), which is rarely found in buffets elsewhere.
The vibe: Located on the lobby of the 24th floor, the long glass bay windows serve up sweeping views of Bangkok. Despite the hotel’s somewhat stark use of black, this dining room uses warmer earth tones and materials, such as wicker chairs.
Who is it for: Those with deep pockets, and large appetites, who want it all.
Okura Prestige Hotel, 57 Wireless Road, wwww.okurabangkok.com. BTS Phloen Chit. Brunch every Sun 11:45am-3pm
The deal: B2,250 or B3,200 for free-flow Champagne, cocktails and house wines.
The selection: The vaguely French name, “Magnifique Sunday Brunch,” and presence of Executive Chef Aurelien Poirot, a Paris native with serious Michelin-star cred, barely mask the fact this another global-orientated hotel buffet—albeit one with a pretty hefty price tag. You could argue the expense is just about justified with the solid seafood selection alone, which includes New Zealand mussels, French fine de claire oysters and Alaskan king crab. There are also plenty of Thai dishes, wood-fired pizzas, cold cuts and sushi to choose from, served from live cooking stations as part of what they call their “Cuisines on Stage” concept. The highlight, though, has to be La Cornue stove and Parisian-style rotisserie, from which many dishes are prepared a la minute and served at your table. Desserts include all the expected French pastries plus homemade ice cream.
The vibe: The contemporary Thai décor has an understated charm. But with its second floor setting, there’s little in the way of views, unless you include the chefs hard at work at the cooking stations, which do make for a pretty lively atmosphere. The obliging wait staff are constantly coming and going, in swing with the live jazz emanating from the floor below.
Who is it for: Expats and more mature couples looking to spend (and eat) big.
2/F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. (between Sois 13-15), 02-126-9999. BTS Nana. Brunch every Sun midday-4pm.
The deal: B2,999 with unlimited red, white and sparkling wines and B1,999 without.
The selection: The buffet lines round up the signature dishes of the Hilton’s many restaurants under one roof—that means everything from beef tartar to sushi to naan. But what makes Flow stand out from the crowd is it’s cheese selection. It gets its own dedicated walk-in cheese cellar so you can stroll among the 50 varieties. Dessert sits at the leafy The Lantern next door, with the teppan ice cream as a recommendation.
The vibe: We just adore riverside brunches, and Hilton has added a nice twist to the deal by throwing in a drink at ThreeSixty on the 32/F to start things off. Head back down to FLOW and the scenery goes from thrilling skyline to chill riverside, with boats gliding by as a live DJ and trumpet duo jazz up the outdoor terrace.
Who is it for: Couples looking for that perfect Instagram moment will find plenty of backdrops for their marathon photo sessions. Those with a love for cheese should be just as thrilled if they can ignore the shutterbugs.
Millennium Hilton. 123 Charoennakorn Rd., 02-442-2000. Free ferry from BTS Saphan Taksin. Brunch every Sun 11am-4pm.
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Familiar faces keep turning up for the five-round trivia night every Tuesday at 7:30pm, so management decided to add a twist this year. Now, not only does the winning team get their bar tab for the night cleared on the house, teams can accumulate points for four months, and stand to win a grand prize. The grand prize varies, with the first one in June being seats to Cape Mentelle’s Wine Pairing Dinner worth over $800. Entry is free.
Come down on Tuesdays at 7pm for a battle of wits, as well as Brewerkz’s happy hour pints which go for $13. entry is $5 per person, with the money collected going into a kitty, with the winning team taking all. While the cash prize usually amounts to the hundreds, an additional $100 voucher is thrown in for kicks. Runners-up get a $100 voucher, and a mini-keg.
Experienced quiz maestro Colin Chamberlain hosts the session, happening every Wednesday from 7-9:30pm. Teams compete in six different rounds of general knowledge questions. crazy Hours also goes on till 9pm, so you can keep your brain juices flowing with beers at $13 per pint. The winning team gets five Harry’s cards worth $5 each, plus a bucket of their premium lager. Entry is free.
Gear yourself for a fast-paced competition here every alternate Wednesday, from 8-10pm. The quiz master puts participants through six rounds, ranging from interactive music and picture rounds, to a “stick or bust” round, where you can choose to gamble the round’s points. Prizes are a $100 Picotin dining voucher, a $50 one, and a bottle of wine, for first, second, and third places. entry is free, but teams should register early to secure a place.
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The exquisite yet simple fare, along with impeccably-trained and knowledgeable service staff, earns this bistro a well-deserved place in our little black foodie book.
Monday-Fri noon-5pm (last order 4:30pm)
An offshoot of the Thai silk company founded by legendary American businessman Jim Thompson, known as much for his silk as his mysterious disappearance in Cameron Highlands, Jim Thompson Thai restaurants are famous for their elegant, exotic décor; and honest-to-goodness delicious Thai food.
Monday-Saturday noon-3pm (last order 3pm)
You’re not going to get the most amazing pho ever, but it’s a good, affordable option for a fuss-free meal, especially since they offer value-for-money sets (lunch is $9.90).
Monday-Friday 10am-3pm (last order 3pm)
This restaurant serves hearty European mains like braised lamb shank ($22) and fish and chips ($17). There’s also an affordable selection of beers ($11/pint), plus a decent mix of wines (from $45/bottle).
Monday-Friday 11:30am-3pm (last order 3pm)
Salt tapas is the second offering from Australian chef and restaurateur Luke Mangan, and he hasn’t detracted from his formula of choosing a prime location—this time on the ground floor of Raffles City Shopping Centre facing Raffles Hotel. A decent people watching spot.
Daily 11:30am-3pm (last order 3pm)
Come for their delicious teishoku (lunch set) accompanied by a piping hot bowl of miso soup and umami Koshihikari rice from Nagano.
Daily 11:30am-5pm (last order 5pm)
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The nearly completed work of burying all the electric and phone cables in Phuket Town’s old quarter is just one sign that much has changed there in recent years. The old communities of Chinese descent—mostly Hokkien—are not just beautifying their distinctive Sino-Portuguese shophouses, or organizing the occasional walking street fair. They’re also rediscovering their Baba Nonya roots, a rich culture in Phuket and Penang where Chinese heritage, colonial influence and indigenous traditions combine. This heady mix is attracting an ever-growing number of galleries and cafés to the picturesque town center. There, you can find fiery Southern Thai cuisine, Hokkien delicacies, SinoPortuguese architecture, stimulating galleries and a solid dose of Baba Nonya nostalgia.
The historic town center’s most beautiful streets are all within walking distance of each other: Dibuk, Thalang, Phang Nga and Yaowarat. To make sure you hit all the highlights, get a hold of the excellent Phuket Town Treasure Map, either at the Tourist Information Center on Thalang Road or at the Thai Hua Museum (see A Brief History below).
Nearly every shophouse in the area is steeped in history but you’d find the On On Hotel and Promthep Clock Tower most familiar as these two sites are featured in countless TV ads. Another star is Soi Rommanee connecting Thalang Road and Dibuk Road, a former red light district, which is now the most popular street for snap-happy tourists drawn to the colorful and tightly packed shophouses. There’s a little flea market there every Saturday night, too—just make sure you get there before 10pm.
A Brief History
Phuket Island (formerly known as Jungceylon) has long been a port of call for foreign trading vessels. From the 16th century, the island was mined for its tin, and there remain plenty of reminders of the presence of French, Portuguese and British, as well as Chinese, Malaysian and Indian influences. Phuket’s shophouses and villas, dating from the 1860s, bear close resemblance to those in British colonial Penang, and there’s a definite convergence of Eastern and Western styles.
The best way to start your journey through time is at Phuket Thai Hua Museum housed in the oldest school building in Phuket (dating back to the 1930s). The two-story exhibition details the island’s Chinese ancestry, Phuket Town’s growth to prosperity and the school itself.
Cafe Culture
If you need a caffeine boost after walking around, sip traditional coffee among the locals at Kopi de Phuket. The place has a Chinese tavern-feel on the ground floor and resembles a Chinese teahouse on the second. There’s also a smaller outlet at the On On Hotel, the oldest hotel in town.
For something more Western, join the queue of expats at Gallery Cafe where they serve everything from full English breakfasts to fast dinner options like pasta. Other charming coffee shops include Mac-chiato House which serves homemade coffee and cakes. It’s set in the type of long and narrow old shophouse (some 20-30 meters deep), with a garden out the back, that’s particularly typical of Phuket Town. Another cute choice is Pirrera Cafe Bar, an old building on the corner of Dibuk, which retains all of its original charm. And if this is your first visit, look up the longstanding China Inn and Dibuk Restaurant, too; both are lovely architectural specimens.
Artistic Perspective
After enjoying all this old stone, take your art appreciation to another level by visiting Phuket Town’s countless galleries, many of which are tucked away in century-old buildings. First, stop at Art Room, a gallery-plus-school which sells contemporary and traditional art by students at affordable prices. For a little more ambiance, head to Phuket 346. This 100-year-old two-story building is not only a gallery showcasing playful contemporary works, but a funky guesthouse with cafe and bar. You can also have fun while admiring minimalist art pieces over at Wua Art Gallery & Studio, which was founded by Mr. Zen, an advertising executive who quit his job to pursue his passion for art. For something more traditional, try Sarasil Gallery, I Mon Art Gallery or Pab Khien Thai Art Gallery.
Southern Dining
Suay Restaurant serves up creative Thai fare at low prices courtesy of Chef Tammasak Chootong, formerly a chef at Banyan Tree Hotels. Try the guay tiew lod salmon khao soy—steamed salmon in rice noodles served with yellow curry, B159 ($6.30)—and tum BBQ ma kue yao, which comprises grilled long eggplant and crab meat, B89 ($3.50). Dessert is a must, too, namely the mango sticky rice spring roll and black sesame ice-cream for just B99 ($4). Southern cuisine meets Sino-Portuguese décor at Raya Restaurant. The century-old building’s original mosaic-tiled floor and walls adorned with ’50s tea and coffee poster girls and pictures of Thai monarchs will take your mind off the somewhat hefty prices. The line-up of traditional Phuket dishes include moo hong—steamed pork with pepper and garlic, B250 ($10)—gaeng nue poo bai cha ploo, a dish of crab meat with curry and coconut milk, B400-600 ($16-24) and pad sataw kapi goong, stir fried sataw with shrimps, B250-350 ($10-14). For a lighter meal, consider Kopitiam where they serve pocket-friendly traditional dishes like mee Hokkien and bak kut teh.
If street food is more your thing, you’ve come to the right place. Start with the famous Mee Ton Poh, a popular haunt for those who can’t get enough of signature dishes like pad mee Hokkien, which costs B35-40 ($1.40-1.60). Next, head to Yaowarat Road and search Soi Sun Uthit for the hard-to-spot Ji Peng stall where you can get delicious mee hun (fried noodle served with pork bone soup) for B30 ($1.20). Right next to it is a stall that serves Phuket’s famous dessert, o-aew (herbal jelly in red syrup), which is a recommended follow-up to your meal. If you’re still not quite full, then o-tao (stir fried oysters with eggs and crispy pork skin) is another traditional Phuket dish, and makes for a great snack. Head to Takuapa Road, where Ji Pien have been selling this famous dish for nearly 40 years. Don’t forget to try their yummy kanom jeen (spaghetti-like rice noodles topped with curry), too.
After Dark
Despite, or perhaps because of, the rich heritage of the area, parts of old Yaowarat and Dibuk Roads are real hotspots come nightfall. Savvy young entrepreneurs have revamped the old shophouses and turned them into chill bars where you can enjoy live music among the cool local set. Sanaeha gives a romantic vibe in the early evening with its big chandelier, but later on it gets packed with young partygoers. It’s a similar case at Ploenchit, where you definitely need to make a reservation on Friday and Saturday nights. If you’re hungry after dancing well into the night, head to Ko Benz for the best known tom luerd moo (pig’s blood in clear soup) in town. They’re open from 7pm-3am, so there’s no need to go to bed hungry.
SilkAir flies direct to Phuket daily for $510 (round trip), while Jetstar flies there for $199 and AirAsia for $210.
Rooms go for B1,300-1,600 ($52-64).
Rooms go for B2,300-5,500 ($92-219).
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For a sense of occasion, there’s nothing quite like a theme to help you sort out how to decorate your place, pick your drinks and encourage your guests to dress up. Poon Panichewa, owner of Meeting Room-The Asian Gastro and PR manager for various fashion brands, says, “Dress codes work for small parties, but forget those beach or cowboy themes, this year is all about something easy but requiring creativity, such as salary man, hip-hop on the beach or choom thang sieng thong (luk toong).” See #14, page 10, for places to rent the perfect costume. Here are our top theme ideas:
• Prohibition Chic. Every one else is doing it, so why can’t you? Inspired by the period from 1920-1933 when alcohol was banned throughout the United States, it’s the era of debauched drinking dens (speakeasies) and the Jazz Age—think Boardwalk Empire and The Great Gatsby when it comes to the dress code. Prohibition-era cocktails are all about making homemade moonshine palatable but for something a bit more elevated try the Sidecar with Cognac, Cointreau and lemon juice, in a 3-2-1 ratio.
• Naughty Nineties & Noughties. Why is it Paris Hilton and Lindsay Lohan get to have all the trashy fun? This party theme is all about the atrocious pop we love (even better if it’s from the 90s and early 2000s), wearing very little clothes and behaving very badly. Email [email protected] and we’ll even tell you where to get male strippers if you promise you’re not the Department of Special Investigations. Drinks? A big bowl of sweet boozy punch to get everyone trashed ASAP.
• Luk Toong. Maft Sai’s Isaan funk has become the obligatory soundtrack for every hip party in town. Head to his molam mecca of a shop on Sukhumvit Soi 51 to stock up on ZudRangMa compilation records, or do your own crate digging for rare luk toong vinyl in China Town or Mae Mai Pleang Thai (G/F MBK, Rama 1 Rd., 02-898-0500/-2. www.maemaiplengthai.com). Order Isaan (try Somtam Jaykee, page 8), hand out pah kao ma to your guests and bring out the chilled rice wine. What doesn’t kill you make you stronger, right?
Neon Tiger (Child’s Play)
• “Dear New York” (original mix) by Firebeatz & Schella
• “Sidewinder” (original mix) by AC Slater
• “Epic” (original mix) by Sandro Silva & Quintino
• “Analogital” (Hard Rock Sofa Remix) by Marco V
• “Must Be The Feeling” (South Central Remix) by Nero
Note Pongsuang (Dudesweet)
• “Wait & See” by Holy Ghost!
• “Tribulations” by LCD Soundsystem
• “Take a Walk“ by Passion Pit
• “Bad Girls” by M.I.A.
• “Wild World” by Mr. Big
DJ Tony Preeda (gCircuit)
• “Somebody That I Used To Know” (Peter Rauhofer Reconstruction Mix) by Gotye feat. Kimbra
• “Dirty Thinking” (Mateo Cortes Yes Remix) by Miguel Picasso, Kristen Deva
• “Feed The Fire” (Jesse Garcia Club Remix) by Katherine Ellis, The Studiopunks
• Let’s Have A Kiki (Nick Bertossi Big Room mix) by Scissor Sisters
Absinthe is a serious alcoholic beverage made from the grand wormwood plant and mixtures of herbs which gained popularity during the 19th century amongst Bohemian intellectuals. It’s sometimes called The Green Fairy for its green color and high alcohol content of up to 70%, which gives it a hallucinogenic quality. There’s more to it than gobbling shots, though, so here’s the proper way to drink it:
• Get yourself a bottle of absinthe (real absinthe has wormwood infusion)
• Make sure you have a perforated spoon, sugar cube and cold water
• Place the spoon with the sugar cube on it on the absinthe glass and pour about 6oz of cold water on the sugar cube until the absinthe starts fade in color
• Use the spoon to dissolve the sugar cube into the absinthe
• Drink slowly to savor the taste
The coolest thing in bartending is to serve single malt whiskies with fist-sized balls of ice in them. While the nec plus ultra is to chop the ball out of a block of ice, you can also just use simple balloons filled with water and chuck them in the freezer. Make sure you clean out the balloons first—they’re not really designed to contain food. The advantage of an iceball over icecubes is that it melts more slowly, allowing your whiskey to keep cool without getting watered down too quickly.
For some extra table style, try folding your paper napkins into this lotus shape. It’s not very difficult but it looks pretty fab.
Can’t even be bothered with replating a food delivery? Get these guys to come in and handle the whole thing.
• I Do Catering
6 Soi Ari Samphan 9, Rama 6 Rd., 02-279-4980. www.ido-catering.com.
These guys organize everything, from event planning down to menu preparation, be it a high tea or a BBQ party.
• Greyhound Catering
27/1 Sukhumvit 53, 02-252-3403/-5. www.greyhoundcafe.co.th.
Trendy and dependable, Greyhound caters to all occasions with an offering of different packages (cocktails, food-in-the-box, buffet).
• White Cafe Catering
207 Ladprao 115, Bangkapi, 02-734-0514/1331/0906. www.whitecafecatering.com
Run and owned by Benya Nadakwang, who’s been cooking for more than 25 years and is now behind the edgy White Cafe in Thonglor, these guys are experts in modern Thai food but can also do plenty of fusion options.
Can’t afford the catering? Dial F.O.O.D. and watch your problems disappear.
• Somtam Jay Kee
137/1-2, Soi Polo, Rama 4 Rd., 02-251-2272.
Nothing spells party quite like a sumptuous Isaan feast. Order their specialties: fried chicken and a variety of somtam, of course.
• Food By Phone
02-663-4663. www.foodbyphone.com
Log on to their website where you’ll be spoiled for choice with an enormous selection of food from various city restaurants, categorized by type, from Mediterranean to Isaan and vegetarian.
• Zabbver
02-655-6000, www.zabbver.com
The only company that delivers baan-baan dishes from old-favorites, like Rad Na Jae Fai, Guay Jub Nai Lek and Pad Thai Thip Samai, direct to your door. Regular members (from B2,500) get to order between 10am-10pm, while premium members (from B15,000) get a 24-hour service. Charges are deducted from member fees.
• Food Panda
02-643-5336, www.foodpanda.co.th
Food Panda delivers from over 100 restaurants, from Pizzazo Bistro and Masala Art to Joke Mee Please. Enter your sub-district, see what’s available in your area and get your cash ready.
• ChefsXP
1767, www.chefsxp.com
What’s so good about ChefsXP is that they have an expansive list of tasty restaurants and they consistently charge lower mark-up prices than the other competitors (and it’s only B60 for delivery to all areas).
Nothing says special occasion like flowers (yes, really). Fill that space with lilies, birds of paradise or roses. Here are our picks of the top florists.
• Ruern Boossaba. 16 Sukhumvit Soi 21, Wattana, 02-661-7767/8, 085-199-2904.
• Close to Nature. 2/F, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-269-9992.
• Atelier. 1/F, The Okura Prestigue Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd., 02-687-9000.
If you’re afraid that your homemade cocktails could spell disaster or cause serious brain damage, why not hire a bartender for the night? We asked around and found out that reputable bartenders normally expect around B1,500 per night. But if you want to surprise your guests with a celebrity bartender, prepare to splash out a lot more cash. We spoke to Ronnaporn Kanivichaporn, co-owner of Roof by Muse and a mixologist for Diagio’s premium liquors, who said, “If you want to hire a celebrity bartender, expect to pay at least B25,000 for a night. But if they’re professional, but not yet a celebrity, rates should be around B3,000.” And of course, you could always go to a bartending school like Bartender Course School (02-653-9373), which offers cocktail-making courses as well as bartending moves.
We’ve played all the following games and lived to regret it. Enjoy.
Beer Pong
You need: plastic cups, a big table, ping pong balls.
1. Set up ten beer-filled plastic cups in a triangle on each end of the table.
2. Split into two teams. One member of each team takes turns bouncing a ping-pong ball into the other team’s cups.
3. You get the ball in a cup, the other team has to drink the contents.
Drunken Jenga
You need: a Jenga (a bunch of wooden blocks of identical size). Get it at Toys-R-Us (6/F, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-613-1400).
1. Prepare a shot of vodka (or any other liquor of your choice).
2. Play the game as you normally would.
3. Whoever topples the tower, takes the tipple.
Stab-A-Pirate
You need: a Stab-A-Pirate (also from Toys-R-Us).
1. Prepare a shot of booze.
2. Take turns stabbing the barrel.
3. Whoever gets the pirate, drink the shot.
Warning: this one gets you drunk pretty fast.
Never Have I Ever
You need: honest friends.
1. A group of players sit together in a circle with one starting the game by saying what they’ve never done.
2. Anyone that has done what the first person has not must drink.
3. The game continues around the circle, but if no one takes a drink, the person who said “they have never...” must drink.
Surprise your guests by showing that you can saber a bottle of champers just like the top bartenders. Read the following tips from Cha Cha, bartender at The St. Regis Bar—carefully now, so that no one loses an eye.
• What kind of champagne? At the moment we use Domain Chandon Sparkling but when we have special requests or events we use Moet Chandon.
• What type of bottle? The bottle has to be made of good quality materials because the cheap ones will make the glass shatter.
• Which part of the bottle do you saber? The neck of the bottle, at the spot where the seam of the bottle meets the head of the bottle. It’s the weakest point.
• Any special techniques? Chill the bottle upside down. It must be extremely cold. Take off the foil from around the neck. Unscrew the wire cage over the cork and bottle head. Hold the bottle at 45 degrees and slide hard at the neck of the bottle. The high pressure inside the bottle will force the cork to fly off.
• Does the length of the saber matter? No. Some people use short swords. It depends on one’s proficiency.
• How do you make the champagne foam fizzle out? Shake the bottle slightly before sabering.
Is your party full of singles just itching to hook up but too shy to do the work? Here’s how to socially lubricate them.
• 7 minutes in Heaven
You’ll need one bottle and lots of people. Just hope they’re good kissers.
1. Gather around in a circle.
2. One person starts the game by spinning a bottle twice until the bottle stops pointing at two people of the opposite sex.
3. The two chosen spend seven minutes in a closet (or a room) to do, um, whatever they please.
4. Once they’re out they get to spin the bottle for the next two.
• Strip Twister
You’ll need the Twister (try Toys R’ Us) game and an equal number of men and women.
1. Determine a penalty for players who’ve lost all their clothing and split into men’s and women’s teams.
2. Two players play in each round as a teammate spins for their partner.
3. When a player fails to move to a spot, that player removes one piece of clothing and is replaced by a teammate.
4. Play continues till there’s one player left with only one piece of clothing. Others without clothes can continue after the predetermined penalty is applied.
• Flip, Sip or Strip
Trust us, this game is simple and no matter what, you’ll end up either drunk or naked.
1. Three or more players take turns flipping a coin and guess if it’s head or tails.
2. If they guess correctly, they pass the coin to the next player, if they guess wrong, they either take a shot or remove a piece of clothing. The real fun part is you can’t choose the same option twice in a row.
• Suck and Blow
The name says it all, a quick and easy way to break the ice with the opposite sex.
1. Five to six players gather around in circle switching positions between men and women.
2. One player starts the game by holding a card to their mouth by sucking in air and passes the card to the next player by blowing out.
2. The game continues until someone drops the card (meaning you’ll get some lip action), that person then takes a drink.
Bas Petchpradit, mixologist at WOOBAR,
W Bangkok, gives us an easy recipe for a molecular cocktail you can make yourself.
Jasmine Martini Jelly
• What you need: Gin 400ml, syrup 40ml, two drops of jasmine flower extract, five packs of gelatin.
1 Pour all of the gelatin into water and add two drops of jasmine flower extract.
2 Once the gelatin starts to soften, separate the gin into two parts, one 90ml and one 410 ml.
3 Pour the 90ml gin into a bowl before placing it above a pot of boiling water to allow it to heat up.
4 Mix together the heated gin with the rest of the gin, syrup and gelatin in a mold, add some fruits for more flavors and put in the fridge until it turns jelly-like.
Ditch your elegant evening wear and dress the part for the festive party with our picks of the best costume shops around town.
Dreambox Costume
What: Fancy, super heroes and movie characters.
Highlight: An array of international and superhero costumes.
Price: Rent starts from B300, deposit from B150.
Where: Soi Preedeepanomyong 26, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-715-3547. www.dreamboxcostume.com
PR Fancy
What: Fancy, international, superheroes and movie icons.
Highlight: Wide range of fancy costumes that come with countless complimenting accessories.
Price: Rent starts from B700 for three-day rental, B1,000 deposit.
Where: 488 Soi Petchburi 18, Petchburi Rd., 02-656-5831. BTS Ratchathewi.
Petchchor
What: Fancy and international costumes.
Highlight: Retro and international costumes that are all about the details.
Price: Rental starts from B400 for three-day rental, deposit from B300.
Where: Twin Condo (next to Asia Hotel), Happy Land 2 Rd., 081-617-1277.
Grandview Fashion
What: Fancy, international, night dresses, pretty costumes.
Highlight: Sequined costumes; they even have ones that’ll turn you into a promo pretty.
Price: Rent starts from B1,500, deposit from B1,500.
Where: Between Soi Ladprao 85-87, Ladprao Rd., 02-538-8325.
M Shop
What: Fancy costumes
Highlight: A wide range of bodysuits.
Price: Rental starts from B500, deposit from B300.
Where: 1096 Petchburi Soi 37, Petchburi Rd., 086-062-3084.
You can’t prevent your guests from bringing bad wine to your party. But at least you can turn it into something drinkable. Make sangria.
• What you need: A bottle of red wine, peach syrup, strawberry, green apple, apple juice, watermelon, and lime juice.
• How to: Dice all choppable fruits and throw a handful of each into a big bowl with red wine. Add syrup, apple juice and some lime juice, according to taste. Leave it in the fridge for around two hours. When serving, always place the sangria bowl on ice so that it’s chilled even without ice. Top with a splash of ginger ale to add some fizz.
1 Chopsticks and plastic forks, B60 each from Daiso (Try Siam Square Soi 3, 02-654-6303) 2 Compostable bagasse sugarcane plates, B32/10 pieces, 3 cups, B25/10 cups from Gourmet Market (Try G/F, Siam Paragon, 02-690-1234) 4 Paper napkins: yellow, B99/50 pieces; green, B69/30 pieces; red, B74/30 pieces from IKEA (Mega Bangna, 02-708-7999)
Don’t ruin your delicate hands, hire a third party to do the job.
COIT
482 Soi Sainamthip, Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-743-1250. www.coit.co.th.
With half a century experience and branches in the US, Canada and Thailand, they can de-soil anything from curtains and Persian carpets to sofas and cushions. They normally visit your place before quoting the price which falls between B8,000-B20,000.
Cleaning 24
67 Soi Huamark 9, Huamark, Bangkapi, 081-347-4863, 02-732-1700. www.cleaning24.co.th
These guys can make your place look new again within a day. The professional team will clean everything from the floor to the ceiling. Prices roughly start from B50 per sq meter.
Four Hands Maintenance
46/82 Moo 12, Nuanphaka Village, Nuanchan Rd., 02-510-2571, 02-944-6362. www.fourhandscleaning.com.
Four hands are surely better than two when it comes to cleaning. With all-round cleaning services, they send a cleaning crew equipped with high-quality machines to wipe away every trace of grime. Prices start from B3,000.
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Artist: P.O.P
Label: Love Is BEC TERO Music
Those eight years away from the music scene have clearly had an effect on P.O.P. While last single “Kon Tee Mai Bok Pan” followed their romantic-pop template, they really turned things on their head with “Chob Ah (Rock It Like It).” Sounding like some kind of high-energy 80s rock ballad with its driving guitars and bouncy bass line, you’d be hard pressed to pick this as P.O.P until the arrival of Nop Pornchamni’s sweet vocals. Even though it’s very different, this melodic rock number blends well with the band’s identity, and justifies why we’re so happy about their return.
Artist: Greasy Café
Label: Smallroom Records
Debut acting appearances and writing successful film soundtracks made it a big year for Apichai “Lek” Trakulpadejkrai. Now the Smallroom singer and songwriter delivers his third studio album, The Journey Without Maps. As the title suggests, the first single “Ngao Kong Fon [Shadow of the Rain]” gets the long trip started with an epic sound that’s kicked off by some urgent ukulele and strident violin before a marching drum beat takes over. The anthemic lyrics point out how relationships are like a journey where you need to relinquish self-created illusions and jealousies. Stirring and heartfelt, it’s quite a shift from his previous work, piquing our interest on where this journey is headed next.
Artist: Tue’sday
Label: Independent
Two years after quirky pop duo Varattha “Ple-noi” Phongthananikorn and Ontida “Pook” Komolpit first hit the music scene as Facebook sensations, they finally get round to releasing their debut single. “Wan Tam Ma Da (You Complete Me)” features an impressive backing band from the Stu-Fe family, which includes Tum Monotone on guitar, Fon from Superbaker on bass and lyrics from Fat Radio’s program director Boom, the result being a warm and polished toe-tapping pop number that’s very, very catchy.
Artist: Singhtoe Numchoke
Label: Believe Records
After his collaboration with Stamp Apiwat earlier this year on “Chai Klang,” the ukulele king returns with his second studio album. The first single “Yu Tor Loey dai Mai” sticks to the Jack Johnson-inspired easy listening surf-pop sound that made him so popular the first time around. Echoing that chilled vibe, the sweet sounding lyrics lovingly recall a memorable party he wishes would never end.
Artist: Into The Air
Label: So: On Dry Flower
The alt-music collective that brought post-rock outfit Mogwai to Bangkok last year just launched their second compilation under the name Ghost Note II on Nov 17 at Sonic Ekkamai. It features tracks from artists like Two Million Thanks and Talkless, with the songs from those two bands already breaking into Fat Radio’s weekly top 40 chart. Another one to watch from this collection is the sweet and soft post-rock tune “Air # 1” from Chaiteap “Aok” Chunskul aka Into The Air, who is a freelance artist, DJ and the bassist for Gene Kasidit.
Artist: Gene Kasidit
Label: Smallroom
The second single from the album Blonde, “Keb Kam Wa Rak” (Keep The Love Words) is a very heavily 80s-inspired electro-pop tune that has more than a touch of the Pet Shop Boys about it. Upbeat and very produced-sounding, Gene’s vocals and the infectious chorus make you want to get up and dance.
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The owner-uncle might not be the most gentle and warm, but look past the grumpy service and you’ll realize the food here really is up there with the best. The khao mok (B50) is moist and aromatic—everything you need the dish to be. There’s a reason the place is more than 50 years old and now run by the second generation. Another dish not to be missed is the massaman (curry with beef, B60)—one of the best in town. The generous serving of beef is tender and the curry very rich and flavorful.
In front of Nakhon Kuenkan Soi 6, Phrapradaeng, 02-462-5983. Open daily 7am-4:30pm
This place is easy to miss amid the surrounding hustle and bustle. It’s situated down a side alley just past the 7-Eleven on Tani Road, on the other side of Rambutri. Look out for the sign in Thai only (non-readers can spot it by the red color and crescent and star logo). Seating is actually quite ample, but first you have to negotiate your way past their always-busy, street-side kitchen. The beef satay (B45), ox tail (B60) and khao mok gai (B40) are the highlights, and their beef noodle soup is super savory and chock-full of succulent chunks of beef.
178 Tanee Rd., 02-282-6378. Open daily 9am-10pm
Ahmad is the real deal for khao mok (B50): fragant, not too fatty, with great rice and tender meat. The beef or chicken over rice goes great with a hearty bowl of oxtail soup. (If you prefer goat meat, khao mok pae [B200] is available only on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday.) Don’t forget to try the curries, too, while you’re there.
Rama 9 Rd., 081-811-4601, 089-076-7610. Open daily 9am-3pm
Hidden among the many trolleys, this nameless khao mok gai stall draws in crowds of hunger-struck office workers at lunchtime. Their khao mok gai (B30) comes with a chicken drumstick, slices of cucumber and a smattering of fried chopped onions. The rice, though sometimes a bit too dry, is aromatic and well-seasoned and the chicken tender. Despite its look, the accompanying sauce is sour, not sweet, and a good complement. They also serve a sour and spicy chicken soup (B30), which is a must-have and the perfect way to wash down the khao mok gai.
Soi Convent (in front of Bua Restaurant), Silom Rd., 086-042-4645. Open Mon-Sat 11am-5pm
A list of the best khao mok gai isn’t complete without Khao Mok Gai Siam. Even though their many branches are situated around the outskirts of Bangkok, we think it’s definitely worth the trek. The chicken in the dish is very moist, fall-off-the-bone tender, and covered with spices. Of course, you should have it with guay tiew gaeng (noodles in curry, B35) to stock up on energy for the long drive back.
181/115 Sanambinnam Rd., 02-968-7447. Open daily 8am-4pm
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