Shangarila Restaurant

A big favorite among the Thai-Chinese families whose moms or grandmas resolutely say no to farang food. The place has been around for more than 40 years and the décor is typically Chinese, with lots of red and lots of round tables. It’s loud, of course, being full of families and playing kids on weekends, and mostly businessmen on weekdays. The food is decent, too, with varieties of dimsum and a nicely balanced rad naa (noodles in gravy sauce, B150) that’s sure to remind you of your aunt yelling at you to eat your vegetables, when all you really wanted was the Peking duck (that’s still cooked to perfection, B900).
147/7-9 Silom Rd., 02-234-9147-9. Open daily 10am-2pm; 5-10pm. www.shangarilagroup.com

Bua

Before Bua hit the community malls, it was another of those family-friendly restaurants with outdoor seating and fish tanks for the kids to gawk at. The vast menu covers all the classic Thai dishes you could possibly think of, but we recommend going for the tao hu song krueng (stir-fried tofu in gravy sauce, B150) or poo pad pong kari (stir-fried crab with yellow curry powder, B1,700 for a kg). And why not head to the branch on the edge of Bangkok and combine it with a family moment in the suan arharn (food park).
5/1 Srinakarin Rd., 02-393-5876, 02-393-5877. Open daily 10am-10pm

Pan Pan

Back in the old days when Bangkok didn’t have so many osteria, the name Pan Pan was synonymous with Italian dining. We must admit to fond childhood memories of tagging along with our parents and their snappily dressed friends for a dinner in town. Since then, the Lang Suan outlet has closed and a thin layer of nostalgia has settled on the original restaurant’s unpretentious but, warm décor. Still, Pan Pan has some good-value treats, particularly if you like pasta and cheese. The macaroni with mushroom and cream sauce (B230) features al dente pasta and sliced mushrooms drenched in a super rich cream sauce, and the baked spinach (B220) is still covered in an overabundance of melted cheese that any kid would love.
Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-258-9304. Open daily 11am-11pm

Nittaya Gai Yang

Growing up, many of us were told not to eat KFC. But our parents would compromise by taking us here where the grilled chicken (B90) is simply wonderful—cooked to a browned perfection. Even the grown-up dishes like gaeng kua hed tob (curry with star mushroom, B80) are rich and flavorsome (not to mention pretty hot). The place is quite baan baan with its tiled floors and big chicken statue out the front of most branches but that doesn’t dampen our enthusiasm to keep going back.
Try Prachachuen Rd., 02-591-1264-5. Open daily 10:30am-9:30pm. Find more branches at www.nittayakaiyang.com

Krua Apsorn

The draw is clearly not the two shophouse-wide dining room fronted by big windows with its cafeteria-like feel. And the simple menu, with just a few dozen standards, doesn’t hint at the miracles created in the kitchen. What makes these seemingly mundane dishes special is in part because they’re made the “old-fashioned” way from classic recipes handed down and fine-tuned over decades. The most scrumptious dish is the fresh chunks of crabmeat fried with yellow chilies, onions and string beans (B350). The crab is fresh and the flavors are well-balanced. A dish like the kai jiew foo poo (omelet with crabmeat, B85) is sure to ring a comforting bell from your kindergarten days. Krua Apsorn’s location in the Dusit area may be fairly forgettable, but its excellent flavors always demand a revisit.
Samsen Rd., 02-668-8788. Open Mon-Sat 10:30am-7:30pm. www.kruaapsorn.com

Song: “Kwam Roo Suk Kong Wan Nee (Felt)”

Artist: Lomosonic
Label: Smallroom
After marking their return with a first single “Tung Wayla” last June, the hyper-macho punk rock outfit Lomosonic recently released their second single “Kwam Roo Suk Kong Wan Nee” which quickly hit number one on Fat Radio’s weekly top 40 charts. Unlike the previous track, the single dims down the upbeat marching sound in favor of a dark-but-sweet melodic rock piece about a guy who can’t let go of his old memories. The lyrics, combined with a rousing guitar line throughout the song, reveal the fragile side of these tough guys.          

Song: “Leaving by the Train”

Artist: Naked Astronaught
Label: Comet Record
Brand new independent music label Comet Record finally launched their first Compilation Vol. 1 at the final Fat Fest, last month, which consists of tracks from various artists (including Casinotone and Lunar). Another track to keep an ear out for is “Leaving by the Train” by Naked Astronaught. They label themselves “post trip-hop;” we call them neatly mixed electronica blended with a slow-and-steady rap line. But, yeah, “post trip-hop” is catchier.   

Song: “Eek Mai Nan”

Artist: The Orange Rolls
Label: Independent
You might be familiar with the band if you’re fans of live music meccas Cosmic Café and Motorcycle Emptiness or experimental music festival Stone Free, as The Orange Rolls regularly appear on lineups at all these places, and they’re known for delivering super fun stage performances. Their latest single “Eek Mai Nan” simply refers to the moment when you stop and think about your past, and its melodic pop-rock is expanded by more experimental noises, creating a spacey, soft and sweet combo.   

Song: “Just Rain”

Artist: Dubberfield
Label: Siampirock
This third single from instrumental electronic band Dubberfield of Siampirock Records explores the theme of things getting better after the rain. Compared to their previous single, “Shoes,” whose sound was more dubstep, this single simply takes a steady house beat, layers it with live instruments like guitar, bass and violin, and sweetens it all up with your typical Thai-style pop vocals.     

Song: “Pick You Up”

Artist: Wannarit Pongprayoon
Label: Panda Records
This first solo recording of Wannarit Pongprayoon, one half of indie pioneers Stylish Nonsense, was released exclusively with the debut issue of Paperback Fanzine. Titled My Post Life, the project kicks off with the heart-warming single “Pick You Up,” where Pok sets aside his synthesizer and picks up acoustic guitar to sing the story of a guy asking his crush to come to his place. For easy listening, it’s surprisingly catchy.

Song: “Pleng Kong Rao (Our Song)”

Artist: Dark Fish Full House
Label: Parinam Music
Parinam Music’s soul-funk band Pla Nin Tem Ban introduced their latest single “Pleng Kong Rao (Our Song)” as part of the label’s special compilation, The Awakening, a tribute to the Last Fat Festival last month. The band cutely mixes their funky style to a little bit of swing step, and sings that no matter how fast time flies, songs remain to remember them by. Jack from labelmates The Rovers also lends his warm vocals.

Enjoy epicurean appetizers like freshly shucked Canadian and Fine de Claire oysters, and steamed Chilean scallop with roe at Cafe Brio's Valentine's buffet dinner ($88++ with a glass of sparkling wine) on February 13-14.

Celebrate your love amidst candlelight and in a lush park setting at The Glass House, and enjoy a five-course set dinner at $198++ per couple.

Impress your partner with a nine-course degustation dinner on February 13-14 at Mikuni ($250++ or $350++ with sake pairing) with the finest selection of fresh sashimi.

Wine and dine at Pontini with their five-course wine pairing dinner ($135++) on February 13-14. Look forward to blue fin tuna carpaccio, pan-seared foie gras, and a decadent chocolate dessert.

Prego will show you how the Italians do it, with a three-course set lunch ($60++), a four-course set dinner ($80++), and a four-course vegetarian dinner ($60++), available on February 13-14. A delicious Glittery Kiss cocktail is also available at $10++ per glass.

Let Saint Pierre treat you to a sensuous 10-course meal ($188++ per person), with oyster pearl sphere in its shell with lime gel to set the tone for the night, and a divine dessert of white chocolate and caviar to end it.

A luxurious spread awaits you at Senso Ristorante & Bar, where you'll get to indulge in dishes like Senso’s spaghetti with Roberto Cavalli vodka and Baeri caviar from Italy as part of their six-course Valentine's Day dinner ($148++ with a flute of Prosecco).  

Share a luscious dinner buffet spread with your loved one at Spices Cafe ($68++). Every diner will get a complimentary glass of red or white wine, on top of a serving of half a lobster baked with cheese. Ladies get a complimentary pair of heart-shaped chocolates.

Head down to Starscafe and partake in a four-course set dinner on February 13-14 ($138++ per couple with wine). Choose between the Chilean sea bass or fillet mignon for the main course.

Bak kut teh at Founder Bak Kut Teh Restaurant

We’re fans of the Teochew-style bak kut teh here, with a peppery flavor that’s on the sweet side. The oh-so-tender pork ribs are great, too. From $6.

Black truffle and artichoke soup at Guy Savoy

It doesn’t take a rocket scientist to figure out why this is one of celeb chef Guy Savoy’s signatures, it truly is sublime; doesn’t hurt that it’s accompanied by rich toasted mushroom brioche with black truffle butter. $90.

Borscht at Buyan Russian Restaurant & Caviar Bar

Russian restaurants in Singapore are few and far between, and this one just happens to do a mean borscht. The sweet and savory flavors are well-balanced, while bits of beef and julienned beetroot give the deep crimson liquid added texture. $12.

Cévennes onion soup at LA CANTINE

This baby’s a signature for good reason. Take some intoxicatingly heady onion soup and pour it over a bed of foie gras royale, then top it with truffle-scented Chantilly crème and mini croutons. You won’t want to share. $24.

Clam chowder at Luke's Oyster Bar & Chop House

A perfect example of what clam chowder should be, this thick New England-style version comes with nuggets of littleneck clams and potato cubes. So yummy and comforting, you’ll find yourself slurping up every last drop. $17.

Double-boiled soup with crab claw at Cassia

Hard to resist nourishing double-boiled soup that’s amazingly complex in flavor, thanks to a wealth of ingredients thrown in such as chicken, pork, bamboo pith, sea whelk and a crab claw, served in a young Thai coconut; bonus points for presentation. $24.

French onion soup at Parsley & Thyme

Head to this non-descript shophouse for an oldie but goodie, a delectable bowl of French onion soup with grilled Gruyère and Emmental cheese crostini. $12.

Gazpacho at Tanjong Beach Club

Fine, so it’s not a hot soup. But there’s something to be said for a refreshing, chilled gazpacho made with vine-ripened tomatoes poured over a salt-roasted prawn and kissed with a light drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. $19.

Lobster bisque at Balzac Brasserie

You don’t have to be a soup fan to be pleased with this full-bodied yet not too cloying number. The brininess of sautéed mini Qweli prawns that come with really elevates it—so damn satisfying. $16.

Potato and leek soup at Beets

A mild and soothing leek and potato soup, crowned with a perfectly-poached egg—just waiting to be dug into—and truffle caviar. $10.

Simon and Garfunkel chicken and mushroom ragout at The Soup Spoon

This is just the ticket if you’re after a hearty, herb-scented chicken soup that’s luscious and creamy, studded with mushrooms and chicken chunks for good measure. From $7.60.

Thai spiced pumpkin & coconut soup at Open Door Policy

If you’re feeling a bit adventurous, opt for this feisty number. It’s sweet, tangy, savory and piquant all at once, while a dash of coconut cream adds depth; talk about a wicked flavor explosion in your mouth. $11.

Tom yam at Thanying Restaurant

An authentic rendition of the popular classic, theirs is a clear, fragrant broth that’s spicy and sour with seafood like flower crab, slices of fish, prawns and mushrooms. $10.

A Suite Temptation Package is available at The Goodwood Park Hotel with rates starting at S$540 through February 28 to mark Valentine's Day. The package includes S$50 worth of credit per night for the Gordon Grill, 20% off a la carte spa services and treatments at Spa Rael and late check-out till 3pm. As part of the deal, guests stay at their Poolside Suite, which features an elegant cream and beige color scheme and a clear view of the hotel’s main pool. To book, call 6737-7411 head to the Goodwood Park Hotel website.

Priced at S$368 for a deluxe room, The Hotel Fort Canning has got a Valentine's Day Amore Room Package available from February 8-14. You get buffet breakfast for two at The Glass House, a box of chocolates, a bottle of Prosecco access to the Private Lounge and evening drinks from 6pm to 8pm daily. To book, call 6559-6770 or visit the Hotel Fort Canning website.

At the Pan Pacific Orchard, the Blossoming Love Staycation deal (S$465) is on through February 17 and includes floral petals for a romantic soak in the in-room sunken bath, a box of chocolates, a mini bottle of Champagne, and S$200 spa credit for couple massages at on-premise St. Gregory spa. Make reservations by calling 6737-0811 or at the Pan Pacific Orchard website.

The Scarlet’s basic Valentine’s Day package is price at S$360 per night for a deluxe room. The package includes a set dinner for two at on-site restaurants Our Korner or Breeze, a 15% food and beverage discount for Our Korner and Breeze, chocolate liquor cherries and late checkout 3pm. Plus, you can upgrade the deal to a premium room for S$420, a swank or opulent suite for S$550, a passion suite for S$650, a lavish suite for S$750 and splendour suite for S$950. With any of the upgraded deals you also get a milk bath with rose petals. The promotion is valid from February 8-18. Book your room by calling 6511-3333 or at The Scarlet’s website.

There’s a Valentine’s Day deal at the hip new W Singapore Sentosa Cove going for S$798 per couple on February 14. It includes a six-course dinner at steakhouse SKIRT, a Bliss bubble bath for two, chocolates and two glasses of champagne. Reserve a stay by calling 6808-7288 or at the W Singapore Sentosa Cove website.

The Sentosa Resort & Spa has got a Memories Are Made of These package which includes dinner at The Cliff, a two and a half hour Sweet Honey Rose Spa treatment for two at Spa Botanica, five-hour private yacht rental, a bottle of Champagne, chocolate truffles, one dozen red roses, a moisturising milk bath for two and late check out for $5,320 per night. To book, call 6275-0331 or head to The Sentosa Resort & Spa website.

Okura Spa

Hidden away on the 25th floor of the new luxury Japanese-chain hotel, The Okura Bangkok, is the Okura Spa. Set in a contemporary oriental space, the five private treatment rooms are hidden along a dimly-lit walkway. The highlight is the Okura Take Relief bamboo massage where therapists roll a warm bamboo pole over your muscles to release stress before a soak in a big bathtub (B3,600). 25/F, The Okura Prestige Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd., 02-687-9000. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Ploenchit.

Kiriya Spa (The Lit)

There’s an immediately calming effect walking into this dim, cavern-like and voluptuously curved space designed by VaSLab. All the treatments take inspiration from Thailand’s four main regions. The Southern treatment, for example, starts with a strong, slow massage informed by the local Nora dance and performed with hot seashells. It’s followed by another massage technique inspired by a dance, the Hooloo Vahi, which focuses on blood circulation (130 min, B3,600). Come before 2pm for 40% off all treatments. The Lit. 36/1 Soi Kasemsan 1, 02-612-3456. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS National Stadium.

Apex Medi Spa

Situated behind Ei8ht Thonglor in Thonglor Soi 8, Apex Medi Spa manages to block out the city with its wooden screens and soothing water running down panes of glass. It’s warm and quiet, with just enough touches of white to look “medi” as well as “spa.” The treatments include a lot of expensive products meant to rejuvenate your cells, from gold fusion therapy to caviar masks and infrared beds. Prices start from B5,000 for facial treatments but the drain-massage treatment is B2,500 for 30 minutes, if you’re just looking to quickly relax your calves and thighs before a night out in Thonglor. Behind Ei8ht Thonglor Complex, Thonglor Soi 8, Sukhumvit Rd., 080-500-0123. www.apexprofoundbeauty.com

Guay Jub

Compared to the famous version served in Yaowarat, the soup here is more full-bodied and, as a result, more scrumptious. You’ll get a bowl (Chinese noodles, B40) with a good balance of shredded pork, sliced pork, sieng jee (kidney) and properly cleaned and perfectly cooked intestines. But we recommend you ask for some extra parts (B10) as portions aren’t the largest and, really, too much is not enough.
081-859-1480, 086-557-1466. Open daily 6pm-10pm

Haa Bai Tao

Noodles again, you moan. But these are no ordinary noodles. This recipe comes from the five sisters who gave the shop its name. What’s so special about it? The noodles (B30) are wonderful—chewy but not too soggy. The place really demonstrates how good stock makes everything better, while the entrails are delightful and the moo krob (crispy pork) addictive. Just make sure you get there before 1pm, otherwise, the moo krob will have run out.
02-438-6840. Open Tue-Sun 10am-1:30pm

Sor Suki

Don’t let the grumpy uncle scare you away from one of the best street suki (B60) joints in town. Claiming to serve “authentic” suki, the place definitely provides a unique taste through a very balanced suki sauce. The pork, too, is amazing—juicy and tender throughout. The price might be slightly high, but once you try it, one dish is never enough. Opening times are really uncertain, so we suggest you drop by before nightfall.
02-437-6434. Open daily 10am-9pm

Khao Tom Pla Tha Chalom

This bowl of porridge is sure to delight you. The owners tell us that the fish is bought daily and we believe it because the fish here has no fishy smell at all. The soup is naturally sweet with a pleasant touch of garlic. As for the tao jiew (salted soy bean), it’s tastily homemade and not too salty, unlike the bottled variety.
Open daily 5pm-midnight

Jay Joo

You might have heard of this famous noodles stall. The most popular dish here is yen ta fo (B40) which comes with flavorful bean curd, while high quality condiments are in good supply and the morning glory fresh and crisp. We recommend having it in the tom yum style.
02-393-9722, 084-071-5183. Open daily 10:30am-9pm

Porn Jaroen

Under the same roof as Jay Joo, Porn Jaroen is a must-try for the sweet toothed. The place serves up coconut milk ice cream (B25) which is rich and succulent. The most popular topping is the corn soup.
02-393-9722, 084-071-5183. Open daily 10:30am-9pm

Tee Aoun

Get ready to stand your ground because you’ll never know when the Thai-Chinese aunties will try to cut the queue for this real deal soybean milk (B8). This place really offers the authentic taste of healthy nam tao huu: just breathe in the aroma of the soybean and taste the natural sweetness. Make sure to ask for the tofu skin, too.
02-860-3861, 086-544-7778. Open daily 9am-11pm

Kanom Jeen Hai Lum

A hard-to-find dish (rice vermicelli in Hainanese style) that here is very well executed. It’s no surprise this place has been opened for more than 15 years. The kapi (shrimp paste) sauce is tasty, the noodles delightfully chewy and the meat tender, while the nuts are fresh and the pickled cabbage not overly sour. No need to order pork, stick to the beef (B40) as it’s much more flavorful.
02-437-5391. Open daily 8am-7pm

JANUARY

The Naked and Famous

282
Number of people killed in traffic accidents during the 7-day period around the New Year Festivities.

32.9%
Percentage of accidents resulting from drunk driving.

Nitirat VS Thammasat
Thammasat University agonized over what to do with the Nitirat group, which is fiercely critical of the lese majeste laws, and hence fiercely hated by royalists. In the end, Thammasat stood on the side of free speech.

The Abortion Scandal
Howard Wang allegedly convinced his Maxim model girlfriend to get an abortion.

Asiatique
The giant riverside mall finally revived the spirit of the much-missed Suan Lum night bazaar and gave the riverside a cool new place to stroll, eat and drink. It stirred up a social media storm again 12 months later with its dual-priced Ferris wheel—B250 for foreigners, B200 for Thais—and the Dutch operator ultimately raised prices to B250 for all.

The Naked and Famous
The fast-rising indie electro starlets from Auckland rocked Moonstar with their all-too-brief gig.

Simsimi
You know you’ve gone viral when the Ministry of Culture wants you banned. But for Simsimi to die, all they had to do was wait.

Faux Frenzy
Chocolate Ville, with its fake lighthouse and Disney village vibe, opened to packed crowds who just can’t get enough of the Wine I Love You team’s mix of Thai and inter dishes.

Black Lips
The psychedelic “flower punk” rockers made their much anticipated debut in Bangkok and didn’t disappoint.

Scarlett
One of the year’s coolest openings was, of course, another wine bar. Scarlett boasts sweeping views of Silom, an actual wine menu and decent food, though, unlike much of the competition.

FEBRUARY

SONIC

64%
Number of people interviewed who said that food prices, not political conflict, was their biggest concern. Attempts to control the price of khao kaeng ensued, and ultimately failed.

Bars with the Word Wine
This trend started last year, but 2012 saw even more of a wine obsession: new branches of Wine Connection, The Wine Bar, Wine We Well, I’m Wine...

SONIC
One of the biggest boosts to the improved indie scene was the arrival of this new venue in the heart of Ekkamai; complete with a decent sound system.

The Sleeveles Garden
The new brand does vintage at local prices, and we at BK became instant fans of their leather bags.

The Slap
A customs official slapped a security officer. But, for once, the poo yai got into trouble.

FOUR SEASONS-GATE
Our PM went to a hotel during work hours and met some businessmen. Shock ensued.

Hey, Big Spender
The B2 billion compensation package approved for victims of the 2010 protest failed to achieve reconciliation. As for the B2.27 trillion infrastructure and flood rehabilitation package, it just raised fears of massive corruption.

“It’s NORMAL TO DRINK BUT I WASN’T DRUNK”
Deputy PM Chalerm Yubamrung on his odd behavior in parliament following his attendance at a wedding.

MARCH

Kittichaya “Key” Gaesuwan

Pichet Klunchun
Pichet was the highlight of La Fete, with his last performance ever of Pichet Klunchun and Myself, followed by a renewed focus on his Chang Theatre.

Kittichaya “Key” Gaesuwan
Her role in She didn’t got unnoticed, as her acting talent and androgynous good looks swept boys, girls and everything in-between off their feet.

APRIL

Shakespeare Must Die

Shakespeare Must Die
The Thai Film Censorship board banned director Ing K’s Macbeth interpretation of Macbeth for “causing divisiveness.” “All this is nonsense. We’re talking about a horror movie!” Ing K told BK ahead of the ban’s appeal. The appeal was not granted.

Dickinson’s Culture Café
One of the hottest openings on Phra Athit this year, Dickinson’s blends the best of Café Democ and Club Culture’s sounds in what looks like a classic bakery-cum-pawn shop.

Good to be Gay
gCircuit (April 13-15) was bigger and better than ever before thanks to a rooftop location at CentralWorld and the super cute porn star, Koh Masaki.

Movies with Rak in theIR Title
We began this year with Rak Wei Hei and ATM Err Rake Error in January, things continued with Rak Leaw Few Ah and Rak in February. March brought Rak Sood Teen and Rak Aow Yu. And Rak 555 opened in April. Yes, there is such a thing as too much love.

I’m gonna tell Kru AnGkana!
The little boy who’s going to tell on you garnered 1.2 million views.

Hot Prints
Local designers Lalalove London and Painkiller usher out the pastel trend with big, bold prints.

11 million
Numbers of pictures users had uploaded to Instagram by April 2012, according to Zocialrank.com. That was just the beginning, though, and it’s probably closer to 11 million a day by now.

Return of the 90s
Joni Anwar’s comeback concert signaled a sudden revival of Thai pop stars from one or two decades ago, from Wasit Mookdavijit’s return (of Crub and Day Tripper) and Nuvo’s reunion gig to the Sonic Attack 2012: 90s-The Best! concert.

Siam Vintage
It looks like a gallery in an old European department store, but it’s actually Siam’s new hipster mecca, packed with stores dedicated to the whole preppy, vintage trend.

MAY

Lady Gaga

Mall Overload?
The Nine, Rain Hill, Thaniya Shopping Plaza—the community mall craze kicked off by K Village in 2010 showed no sign of slowing down. But with Mega Bangna opening (May 5), big continues to be best on the city’s outskirts.

Chompee Champion
With Death in Venice, Jitti Chompee takes his physical and experimental dance style to an empty swimming pool lined with garbage bags. In 2012, he also performed in P.Tendercool’s warehouse and Bed Supperclub, showing you don’t need a theater to put on sold-out performances.

Lady Gaga
Fake Rolex scandal. Traditional Thai headpiece scandal. Thai flag scandal. Overpriced tickets scandal. Mother Monster was fittingly scandalous.

Speakeasy Clones
When the elegant Speakeasy opened on the top floor of Muse, prohibition-chic and Boardwalk Empire elegance still seemed like a fresh concept. Eight months later, the speakeasy trend is getting pretty tired, not just in Bangkok but all over Southeast Asia.

3
Number of Boeing 747s required to deliver Lady Gaga’s equipment.

Galaxy SIII
It got more Google searches in 2012 than the iPhone 5, it topped CNET’s Best Phone of the Year list and, for the very first time, it proved Apple was not necessarily the world’s best smartphone maker.

JUNE

Jason Mraz

B350,000-B500,000
Price 95 police cadets paid to have answers to the academy’s exam wired to them by radio.

B500,000
Fine for Channel 3 after a woman bared her breasts while painting a canvas on Thailand’s Got Talent. Huge publicity for TGT followed, along with promises that this was a terrible mistake and that it will never happen again.

Isaan Indoors
Somtam Der (our favorite), Noreste, Café Chilli Zaap and Thai Lao Yeh all opened in the first half of 2012, and all pledged to deliver somtam that’s even better than at the street-side stalls despite their handsome decors.

Nose-to-tail
Smith, soon followed by Quince, marked renewed interest in eating every little bit of your favorite farm animals, from calf’s tongue to pig’s bone marrow.

Jason Mraz
After having to cancel a gig in Khao Yai last year, the globally adored crooner finally made it to Bangkok.

Moving Democracy
Café Democ leaves Democracy Monument and reopens at Silom Plaza where it’s been delivering top-notch electro ever since.

Cocktail Revival
As people gradually bored of the whole wine thing, cocktails made a comeback with more Thai mixologists finally making a name for themselves: Karn Liangsrusuk at Escapade, Passapong Phetpradit at W XYZ and Ronnaporn Kanivichaporn, who designed the cocktails at Roof by Muse.

ONLINE FASHION
Symbols of Style launched the retail part of their online lifestyle magazine. But the whole year really marked a boom in online fashion retail, thanks to Zalora, Reebonz, Central, Siamism (from Siam Center).

B41.7 billion
Estimated amount Thais spent on gambling during Euro 2012.

B400 million
Amount paid by Grammy for the rights to broadcast the Euro 2012 tournament in Thailand, which resulted in True cable subscribers not being able to see the games and nearly triggered a civil war.
 

JULY

P-047

64,000
Donuts distributed to poor people nationwide to commemorate Thaksin’s birthday.

6
Number of babies born to mother Duangchanok Wangwitthayaskul, the first recorded case of sextuplets in Thailand. All were named after their parents’ favorite car brands.

DON MUEANG COMEBACK
Thai AirAsia confirmed it would move all its domestic and international flights from Suvarnabhumi to Don Mueang from October, part a three-stage development that will see the airport ultimately handle 66.5 million passengers a year by 2027.

Best In Show
P-047, the first independent production from veteran Bangkok director Kongdej Jaturanrasamee, opened and showed that Thai cinema can still do mind-bending indie thrillers; while Echo Planet and Yak (Oct) proved that local 3D animated flicks are on the rise.

Radio Retro
Hip Isaan roots-repping record label ZudRangMa expanded its tastemaking orbit by launching a relentless bi-weekly  podcast series.

Code Red
Agent provocateur Manit Sriwanichpoom’s latest exhibition, Obscene, opened at H Gallery, taking aim at the PR machine behind Yingluck’s rise to power.

Hot Air
NASA cancels an atmospheric study of climate in Thailand after a decision on whether to approve its request to use Thailand’s U-Tapao air base as the project’s operations center was delayed and delayed some more. Critics argued it could be a cover for military or weather-controlling purposes.

AUGUST

Shambhala

Olympic Anguish
Thailand’s haul of 2 silver and 1 bronze medals at the London Olympics 2012 marked a fall from 2008 (2 gold, 2 silver). Hardly surprising when only 38 athletes were sent to compete, compared to 51 four years earlier.

Sonic Youth
90s kids got their retro fill as 13 Thai indie rock bands from that era were joined by Britpop faves Suede for Sonic Attack at BITEC.

The internet is eating itself
A portly young man strikes a hieratic pose, a fine sheer dress floating about him. Meet Mae Ban Mee Nuad. Over 114,000 Facebook followers can’t be wrong.

Ocean of What?
The wonderful all-white electro festival from exotic Europe, Sensation, arrived in Bangkok without even announcing its line-up of “the world’s best DJs.” Still, didn’t we all have a good time?

Shambhala Shambles
Another big-money Thai flick, another star vehicle takes a wrong turn…all the way to Tibet. We’re sure plenty of soul-searching is still going on.

B350 million
Amount of drug money controlled by just five inmates at Nakhon Si Thammarat prison, using over 300 different bank accounts.

70%
Percentage of unemployed people in Thailand who do not seek work.

40 million
Total Youtube views that PSY’s “Gangnam Style” got from Thailand, out of 852 million views worldwide.

SEPTEMBER

BK on iPad launches!

BK on iPad launches!
And soon won best publishing app at the Asian Publishing Awards 2012. Download it at bkmagazine.com/bkapp

Zense and Zensibility
After two years away, popular rooftop haunt Zense Gourmet Deck & Lounge Panorama returned to the city cramming five kitchens under the one renovated roof courtesy of Amata Luphaiboon, who designed Sala Phuket Resort and Six Senses Hideaway Samui.

Red Bull Outrage
The young heir to the Red Bull energy drink empire was accused of killing a motorcycle policeman after hitting him with his Ferrari

Relentless Rock
Former Oasis guitarist and notorious bad boy Noel Gallagher kicks off Bangkok’s season of rock with his band the Flying Birds coming to town on Sep 20, followed by Keane on Oct 4 and Maroon 5 on Oct 8.

H&M
After Uniqlo opened, it seemed the only global fasion chain missing in Bangkok was H&M. That’s now been fixed. We can die happy.

Craft beers
After years of the same old beer, Bangkok is suddenly awash in boutique brews

Culture One
Bangkok’s biggest electro fest turned 5.

B200,000-300,000
Amount the army paid each month to keep its airship inflated, which at B350 million had still never flown after two years on the ground. After paying an extra B50 million, the army got it to fly, then crashed it, with costs to repair it now estimated at B30 million.

Wet and Wild
Lovers of naked public baths rejoiced as Thailand’s first onsen, Yunomori Onsen & Spa, opened, while just across the parking lot, thrill-seekers can now try to keep their kit on while riding the machine-made waves at Flow House.

OCTOBER

Maroon 5

Maroon 5  
Tickets to see Adam Levine and the boys sold out in moments, demonstrating that Bangkok loves him, and that the art of scalping tickets is alive and well.

Yak
Not only is it a Thai movie we can be proud of, but it’s an animation. A bit long-winded at times, Yak wasn’t necessarily the easiest movie for kids, but it remains a great adventure.

21.9%
Percentage of television audience in Bangkok who watched the final episode of TV soap Rang Ngao, Channel 3’s most watched lakorn ever.

Signor Sassi
Did the city really need another swanky rooftop restaurant? Of course we did! And this London import already has branches in Lebanon and Kuwait, so it must be doing something right.

Good Bread
With the farmer’s market at Bo.lan going strong, and Quince serving Michael Conkey’s bread (www.facebook.com/conkeysbakery), there’s more and more opportunities to eat really good bread in Bangkok, such as the loaves from Maison Jean-Philippe (tiny.cc/uocwlw).

Longboards versus Fixies
Fixies clearly continue to dominate the streets, despite a few hipsters turning to the elongated skateboards. Need proof? The number of bike-obsessed cafes we now have in Bangkok: Velayenn, Aran Biciclette, Seal Urban, Sweet Pista and newcomer Café Velodrome.

B4.8 million
Price of House Speaker Somsak Kiatsuranond’s fact-finding mission to a football match in England.

Futsal Fiasco
On Nov 1, the FIFA Futsal World Cup kicked off, only not at the B1.2 billion stadium Bangkok built for it. “Not ready,” said FIFA. “Not my fault,” said our governor, who blamed the floods and threatened to sue FIFA.

Babble & Rum
Just the kind of chill, modern bar the riverside needed. Particularly if you need to warm up before hitting the madness on Phra Athit. Still on the riverside, The Siam launched Deco Bar with a 1920s jazz influence.

Art Out of the Box
Not only did we have a great cultural season in 2012’s last three months, but we saw art leave traditional spaces and take over bars and warehouses. The Bangkok Poetry Night grew a sister event, Bombyx, more focused on traditional narration. Jam Café Bangkok opened with resolutely artsy intentions. And P.Tendercool continued to welcome Jitti Chompee’s bold performances in its warehouse.

NOVEMBER

Le Beaulieu

Winter? What Winter?
The beer parks are here, but not the “winter breeze” we here at BK have been dreaming about all year.

Obama!
Not only did he get reelected, but he quickly followed that up with a visit to Thailand—clearly, the man knows how to celebrate. The highlight? Carefully selected images that made Yingluck look she was trying to compete with Michelle O.

Le Beaulieu  
The French fine dining institution moved to new digs at the Athenee Office Tower. The food is still classic, still superb and still super expensive.

Wet Dreams
Pheu Thai MP Prasit Chaisrisa asked Democrat MP Rangsima Rodrassami if she’d object to him dreaming about her. She was not impressed.

JJ Green
Chatuchak got a new neighbor, an outdoor mall with 150 cutesy air-con boutiques spread over 21 rai.

Adieu Pepsi
Thailand was one of the very rare countries where Pepsi outsells Coca-Cola. Now you can hardly find Pepsi at all, after Est entered the scene with the backing of Pepsi’s former distributor.

Boonlert Bust
Pitak Siam’s 12,000-strong rally falls a tad short of General Boonlet’s promise of flooding the streets with one million people.

DECEMBER

Elton John

2nd
Rank of Thailand in the list of countries who have viewed “Gangnam Style” the most. ‘Nuff said.

Old Brits
Elton John and Sting were in town. Not that we’re complaining about getting a couple of elder statesman, since this year saw plenty of fresh acts coming to Bangkok.

The Impossible
Yes, The Impossible was focused on an affluent British family on vacation at a high-end resort, leading some to complain that the film did not represent the 170,000 Asians who died in the 2004 tsunami. But it did capture all the drama of the tsunami in Khao Lak as experienced by all who were there, foreigners and locals alike. A superb film.

WHOSE THE GOV?
Less than two months from the Feb 17 gubernatorial election, the democrats have yet to confirm Sukhumbhand while Pheu Thai have yet to name their candidate.

The APOCALYPSE
The Mayan calendar ended with a whimper. But at least we got some good parties out of it.

Catwalk Session Series by Tigi 

Texture: A mixture of clay and wax
Effect: Slightly shiny, not too sticky, average hold and easy to wash out
Look: Minimal style or slick back
Price: B724

Lee Stafford Messed Up Wax

Texture: Clay-like
Effect: Matte look, very sticky, super firm hold even if you sweat but slightly hard to wash out
Look: Ideal for spiky hair, quiff or Mohawk
Price: B450

Osis Flex Wax

Texture: Creamy
Effect: Matte look, not too sticky, firm hold and easy to wash
Look: Perfect for shaggy hair or a bed-head look
Price: B685

Gatsby Moving Rubber (Green)

Texture: Waxy and rubbery
Effect: Wet look, not too sticky, free-style hold (adds more volume and hold but doesn’t make your hair hard so that you can still play around with your hairstyle) and easy to wash
Look: Natural look with added volume
Price: B295

L’Oreal Indestructible Sculpting Wax

Texture: Rubbery
Effect: Matte look, sticky, firm hold that lasts all day but is hard to wash out
Look: Adds texture and is great for spiky edges
Price: B229

Essentials

Gatsby. Watson, 2/F, Central Silom, Silom Rd., 02-231-3333. BTS Sala Daeng.
Lee Stafford and L’Oreal. Boots, G/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000. BTS Siam.
Osis. To B 1 Hair Station, Siam Square Soi 2, Rama 1 Rd., 081-966-1023. BTS Siam.
Tigi. Order online at www.strawberrynet.com

After four hours, and a few motion sickness pills, a bus from Vientiane landed us in Vang Vieng resort town. It wasn’t our first time here, but the small town had changed so much, we could hardly recognize it. And for once, the changes were for the better.

Old Clichés

The once-tranquil farming town of Vang Vieng sits by the banks of the Nam Song River in-between Vientiane and Luang Prabang. These two major cities are connected by a single main road known as Highway #13 which winds its way up, down and through mountainous valleys. The arduous terrain combined with the poor state of the road (as well as the questionable roadworthiness of some buses) means many travelers stop off at this small town on at least one leg of their journey. And that’s certainly not a bad thing as Vang Vieng is blessed with natural beauty, from the peaceful river, the caves, lagoons and forests to its surrounding limestone peaks that have led some to dub Vang Vieng the Guilin of Laos. 

On the back of this Idyllic beauty, the small town started attracting international volunteers who came to teach English to local children or work on the organic farms. Then, around the turn of the millennium, came tubing, the recreational activity by which you ride a rubber tube down the Nam Song that redefined Vang Vieng as a real party town.

As backpackers began arriving in droves (been there, bought the singlet), the tubing culture grew to incorporate more adventurous activities and new businesses, including bars and clubs along the river offering fun activities (like rope swings, zip lines and mud volleyball), buckets of booze, and drugs. Things would get particularly crazy at night at what became known as The Island, the small strip along the Nam Song where most of the clubs are. This, along with the many bars serving greasy Western fare and showing reruns of Friends and Family Guy around the clock, sealed Vang Vieng’s reputation as a type of Wild West town for shameless backpacker indulgence.

New Era

Of course, not everyone loved what Vang Vieng had turned into. Tubing and mushroom shakes are a lethal mix and given the almost non-existent safety measures, stories of drunken backpackers dying were never far from the news. According to The Guardian, at least 27 people died in 2011 alone. And then in November, with Laos set to host the ASEAN
Summit, the government decided to give the country’s top party destination a radical makeover by prohibiting drugs, alcohol, noisy music and dangerous games (such as rope swings) along the Nam Song. All 24 entertainment venues along the river were shut down and demolished, so that first-timers would barely know of their existence. The result has been a drastic downturn in visitors.

“There are a lot fewer tourists,” said Kee, 20, our kayaking guide on our recent visit. Kee works for the community’s cooperative organization that manages all the tubing and kayaking activities in Vang Vieng. “Those who already knew that [the government] had stopped entertainment activities along the river had already cancelled their trips. The backpackers we are seeing today are those who just didn’t know that everything has changed.”

More optimistically, Kee told us that Vang Vieng is now welcoming a new kind of older traveler who seeks to appreciate the beautiful natural scenery without a need for alcohol-fuelled adventures. When asked if he likes the “new” Vang Vieng, Kee said, “All I know is that we earn less now than when everything was here. But the Nam Song is more beautiful. I’m sure there are more people who appreciate this kind of thing, too. Well, we’ll see how it goes.” 

Luxury Arrivals

“I love what Vang Vieng is becoming,” said Thepharak "Bay" Phanrajsavong, the owner of Riverside Boutique Resort (see Essentials), a new resort which has been open just five months on the right bank of the Nam Song River in the southern part of town, away from the old backpackers’ hub. Bay said that given this fresh start, and its obvious beauty, Vang Vieng has the potential to set itself up as more of a luxury destination. “Despite being known as a backpackers’ heaven, Vang Vieng is also a popular destination among Laotians and expats as it’s close to Vientiane. These people want to stay in a good hotel and hate those bars, but they just didn’t have any choice,” said Thepharak of the now-gone party strip. “I know that infrastructure, things like roads, might push progress back, but if we wait until things are better nothing will happen. Everyone here needs to join together to start rebranding Vang Vieng now.”

In addition to Bay and his resort, Silver Naga (www.silvernaga.com) unveiled its contemporary rooms housed in a grey building earlier this year to join long-established upscale accommodation options like Elephant Crossing, Inthira and Ban Sabai. As for those who are not really into activities along the Nam Song, the “Balloons Over Vang Vieng” ([email protected]) service can fly you above the town, the river and all those stunning limestone peaks. A 40-minute balloon ride flight costs US$80 (B2,400).

“There’s plenty more to come. Entrepreneurs from Vientiane are looking to open more businesses here soon. We just need to balance the growth so that Vang Vieng doesn’t become Pai [in Mae Hong Son]. Next time you come, you’ll definitely see more changes. Good changes,” Bay concludes. And we can’t wait to go back and check up on them.

SUGGESTED 24-HOUR ITINERARY 

6:30am: Morning Breeze
No matter where you stay, wake up early to breathe in the morning mist of Vang Vieng at its coolest when the limestone mountains barely peek through the clouds.

9am: Jang Cave (Thum Jang)
Jang means “numb” in Lao and that explains your feeling after climbing up the 150 steps to the cavernous chambers decorated with colorful lights. Relief comes in the form of dipping your feet into the cool spring, which is believed to help smooth your skin. Admission is 10,000 kip per person, with an additional 8,000 kip bridge crossing fee.

11am: Poo Kham Cave (Thum Puu Kham)
Poo kham means gold crabs, the creatures found living here in the past. Hike up the hill (no stairs, sorry) to the cave where a gold gilded reclining Buddha image lies at its center. Again, the real highlight is the light blue lagoon out front. Feel free to swim, or ride the rope swing, in the beautiful limestone-filtered waters.

1pm: Lunch
Pick any restaurant in the town center. They mostly serve the same food at the same prices. After lunch do grab some pastries and coffee from Luang Prabang Bakery, which is probably the chicest place in town. They also have free Wi-Fi.

4pm: Tubing Time
Tubing means floating in your own rubber tube along the Nam Song River (55,000 kip/B200), which should take around two hours. You can also choose to kayak (B350/person), which is a lot faster. Both start near the Organic Farm located 3km north of Vang Vieng town. Tubing and kayaking are operated by a cooperative here, so prices and services are the same from all agents in town.

10pm: Party
Though The Island is no more, visitors here still need a little party action. The most happening place now is The Moon, which sits on Highway #13 next to the old airport. The place is what you’d expect from a dance club in a remote town, but the DJs play a surprisingly good mix of tunes. So grab a bottle of Beerlao and let yourself go.

Midnight: Bed Time
Things end early here. It’s time for bed ready to get up early the next morning.

Essentials

How to Get There

Getting to Vang Vieng from Vientiane
Take a bus or minivan from the Northern Bus Terminal in Vientiane (Srithong Rd., 2km northwest of Vientiane’s center). Prices are approximately the same (50,000 kip/one way); the minivans are smaller and faster though the buses are roomier.

Getting to Vientiane
THAI, Lao Airlines and Bangkok Airways operate direct flights daily from Suvarnabhumi Airport. Prices are pretty much the same, at around B7,000 to 8,000/roundtrip.

Alternatively, fly to Udon Thani via either Nok Air or Air Asia. A roundtrip ticket shouldn’t be higher than B4,000. After this, things can get a bit confusing. You can step up to the #1 bus counter to buy a B200 ticket, which includes a shuttle to Udonthani Bus Station and a bus trip from there to Talat Sao in Vientiane. Or you can hire a taxi to Udonthani Bus Station (approx. B80/person) to buy an Udon to Vang Vieng ticket (B320/person), which leaves the station at 7am and takes around six hours.

Visa
Thai nationals don’t need a visa to enter Laos. A passport is required, though, to travel to Vang Vieng (or other places beyond Vientiane).

Where to Stay
Luxe: Riverside Boutique Resort Vang Vieng (www.riversidevangvieng.com) is the newest opening and the most luxurious in town, operated by the family behind the high-end Green Park Resort in Vientiane. The 34 guestrooms are encircled by a riverfront swimming pool and offer stunning views of the limestone mountains on the other side of the Nam Song River. Rooms are from B2,750.
Affordable: Popular View Guesthouse (www.popularviewguesthouse.com) sits at the end of the main road on the bank of the Nam Song River. There’s nothing fancy, but you get hot water and air con with a river view and free Wi-Fi to boot. Rates are from B800.

Currency
1,000 kip = B4