Jae Fai 

A favorite among many chefs in town who praise its use of top-quality seafood, the rad na (B360) here has a pretty steep price, but it’s well worth it thanks to a killer combination of seafood and crispy noodles. The highlight is, of course, the flour-coated sen yai (rice noodles), cooked over charcoal to perfection. Do note that the pad see ew (stir-fried noodles with sweetened sauce) and joke haeng (dry congee) are also incredibly satisfying.

327 Mahachai Rd., 02-223-9384. Open Mon-Sat 5pm-2am

Rad Na 40 Pee

From father to son, the faces in the kitchen may change but their star dish (B40) remains just as delicious. The super hot oil quickly fries the noodles to a beautiful golden brown with hisses and pops that speak of a job well done. Their secret, though, is their preserved pork, which is simply stunning. Do drop by whenever you have to head south as this small shophouse is a real hidden gem.

Next to 7-Eleven, Ratpattana Rd., Ratburana, 089-219-3963. Open daily 8:30am-7pm

Rad Na Saladaeng

There’s nothing too revolutionary here, just one big, super-satisfying bowl of rad na (B35). The gravy is flavorful and perfectly balanced, while the pork is well seasoned and juicy. Just be warned that the sen yai (rice noodles) usually runs out around noon so you need to get here early before the swarms of office workers clean it out.

Soi Saladaeng, Silom Rd., 081-931-3380. Open daily 10am-3pm

Kai Thong

While this list mostly sticks to a street vibe, it would be wrong not to include Kai Thong. This well-executed rad na (B150 for small) is done Hong Kong style and is simply delicious. The noodles are fried properly with nice smoky notes, while the fragrant sesame oil also shines through. The gravy is gluey good, too, just a bit peppery, and the marinated beef is totally yummy. If you make the trek there, make sure you call ahead and wear some loose pants as this place is a true foodies’ paradise.

Muang Thong Thani 3, Bond Rd., 02-981-7771-2. Open daily 11am-10pm

Leng Kee

Another fancy bowl of rad na that has us forgetting all about counting calories. Leng Kee ticks all the usual boxes, but what sets it apart is the more hi-so selection with the stand out river prawn (B300)—just heavenly. 

Chula Soi 46, Rama 4 Rd., 02-215-4324, 086-992-1231. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm, 5-8:30pm; Sat 11:30am-3pm

Jakkee

Jakkee is the kind of place that fancy Thai restaurants have nightmares about. Opened for more than 50 years, its committed, highly specialized kitchen serves up magnificent mee krob rad na (B100) that can’t be beaten­—fried just right, the noodles are not too brittle and capable of holding their crispiness even when soaked in flavorful gravy. The beef is some of the juiciest, most tender and aromatic out there, while the kale is crunchy with no hint of bitterness. 

1/35-36 Ratchawithi Soi 7 (Soi Wattana Yothin in Soi Rangnam), 02-245-0849. Open daily 10am-3pm (except the first Mon of every month)

My Mom Moo Tord

Kidteungha Delivery

JQ

Prung

1. Kim Aeng

Gluay chuem (sweetened banana with coconut milk, B20) may be a mainstay at any market, but this stall’s auntie has dedicated more than 30 years of her life to serving up her delicious secret recipe. The flavor has changed little over the years, and you can be guaranteed the banana, sourced from Phetchaburi, won’t be soggy and the magical coconut milk will be so light, fresh and addictive, you’ll be licking your bowl clean.

084-971-7876. Open daily 9am-6pm

2. Tek Heng

The story goes that the owners’ great-great-grandfather once cooked the very same mee krob (fried rice noodles with marinated garlic, palm sugar and soy sauce, B120) recipe they still serve today for HM King Rama V. In any case, their use of genuine som saa (bitter orange) is a rare treat nowadays, making this mee krob the real deal—aromatic and perfectly piquant.

02-466-9170, 02-466-9037. Open daily (except the last Mon of every month) 10am-10pm

3. Sab

Right next to the railway station, you’ll find lots of yummy stalls clustered together from poh pia sod (fresh spring rolls with greens) to yen ta fo (noodles with red sauce) and guay jub (Chinese noodles). All are full of flavor but this grungy stall, Sab, is worth mention for their impressive pladuk foo (crispy catfish with salad) that’s fried to a delicious crispiness that’s so hard to find nowadays.

Open daily 9am-9:30pm

4. Ung

This shophouse offers both ped yang (grilled duck, B100) and ped palo (braised duck, B100). The ped yang is good but we find the ped palo irresistibly yummy, mildly herbed and super juicy. Sadly, the grandpa proprietor is growing tired and isn’t sure how long he’ll be keeping shop, so do be sure to drop in for a bite when you’re in the neighborhood.

081-613-6239, 02-893-3306, 083-844-1002. Open daily 6am-6pm

5. Kanom Bueng Su Arpa

Wonderful kanom bueng Yuan (Yuan pancakes, B40) are a rare treat. We’re mighty grateful that this auntie still uses the finest ingredients to come up with her delightful stuffing, especially the shredded coconut with shrimp head, that go wonderfully with her expertly prepared pancakes. There's no seating here so you’ll need to gobble them on-the-go.

086-988-5054. Open Tue-Sun 6-9pm; Sun 11am-7pm

6. Pad Thai Jay Wan

Everything at this shophouse is on the money—the noodles are not soggy or greasy, the fragrance is heavy on the tamarind juice and slightly smoky, while the shrimps are fresh and naturally sweet. Available on weekdays only, this pad Thai (B30) is simply superb, showcasing some of the very best frying techniques in town.

089-054-7214. Open Mon-Fri 4-11pm

7. Namtaohu

Unlike other namtaohu stalls, this grandma’s soy milk 

(B10) is not overly sweet. It’s naturally sweet, rich and very fragrant. A must. 

087-910-3533. Open Tue-Sun 4-9:30pm

8. Tor Janpen

With its stunning braised beef, properly cleaned entrails and super-flavorful soup (B60), Tor Janpen ranks top of every beef noodles list in the city. The place also sports a very friendly owner who’ll convince you to end your meal with their kanom Thai, such as the luscious tua kiew tom (sweetened mung bean, B12).

02-891-4042. Open daily 9am-6pm

9. Kanomwan Talad Plu

Pick up a queue card and get in line for this dynamic dessert shophouse which boasts that their kanom is preservative-free. For more than 60 years, the desserts here having been drawing in the crowds. Just brace yourself for some marathon eating. We can’t stop peeling the kanom chan (Thai custard) apart and devouring it layer by layer—a delightfully sinful dish.

 02-466-9332. Open daily 2-7pm

10. Bamee Tongleng

This stall selling yummy noodles in the Teochew style is now run by second generation owners. The homemade noodles (B40) are pleasingly chewy and egg-y, while the condiments are also tasty and evidently of good quality. The same family actually runs four branches in the same neighborhood, all with different opening times, so it’s not too hard to get your fix. Otherwise, you can just drop by for some dried noodles if you feel like cooking at home.

02-466-5168, 089-990-9200. Open daily 9am-5:30pm (another branch at the railway station is open daily 6pm-midnight)

Krua Sa Ros Jad

Krua Apsorn

Lai Rod

Cook Somdej

Baan Pee Lek

Rosabieng

Baan Peeraka

Sa Nguan Sri

Methavalai Sorndaeng

Thon Krueng

Rooftop Farm

Narong Jongjamfah

- Lak Si District Office

How did the project start?
Eleven years ago, the staff at the Public Cleaning and Public Park sections of the district, started growing vegetables on an abandoned plot next to the district office. But when the landlord saw the vegetables, he claimed his land back. The section director at that time then told us, OK, you can grow your vegetables on the roof of the office. Then the ex-assistant director created a website about the whole process and it became this free public education thing.
Is it difficult?
You must prepare the rooftop first. The floor has to be absolutely watertight. You have to be motivated to eat good, safe food. As for the rest, just come here and we’ll teach you. It’s free. You can even organize a field trip for your company.
Why is farming in the city important?
Our country’s food safety is not very good. There are too many chemicals used in our food. Food is man’s first medicine, it’s what keeps you healthy. I think growing your own food will be increasingly embraced in the future. It’s sustainable. When there were big floods in 2011, our district was a shelter for flood victims. We could provide them with food and vegetables thanks to our rooftop garden. Farming in the city also helps our city be greener and cooler. It increases our quality of life.
Contact: 02-576-1393 www.bangkok.go.th/laksi

Lak Si District Learning Center Free Courses

- Rooftop or concrete garden techniques
- How to produce micro-organisms for vegetables
- How to produce manure
- How to produce fertilizers for vegetables
- How to grow bean sprouts
- How to grow seeds
- How to raise earthworms
- How to grow straw mushrooms in a basket

City Garden

Suneerat Mathiim

- Home Farm

Why did you start your farm?
It’s a perk of doing my own magazine, Simply Living. I used to work so hard as a magazine writer. Closing an issue every 15 days was really exhausting. Stress finally made me sick. I couldn’t sleep at night, had headaches and suffered immune system problems. I started studying about living healthy by eating good food. It helps a lot. Starting Simply Living exposed me to more wellness research. Finally, I rented a house in Ladprao Soi 48 and transformed it into a little farm where I grow everything I want to eat.
How has it transformed your life?
Completely. I used to be an employee who spent most of her time working. Now I have time for myself, too. I wake up at 6am, take my kids to school, come back to do some gardening and then start my work as a freelance editor. I also have small coops with chickens and ducks so we can collect their eggs everyday. I don’t really need to go out from my home as I have all this food at my place. Sometimes, my neighbors also come to buy some produce such as eggs and vegetables. It’s organic and we sell it really cheap, like B5-B10 a piece. We also try to spread the word by holding workshops on growing in the city as well as recycling junk to create accessories. We are also planning on re-launching Simply Living as everything stopped due to the 2011 flood.
Why is growing your own food important to you?
Most people will only change their life if something drastic happens, such as  beign diagnosed with cancer. But why do you need to wait for problems in order to change? Choosing a healthy way of life is pleasant. Eating your homegrown vegetables is awesome and you will be so proud of what you create. It’s definitely a better feeling than eating expensive food anywhere else!
Contact: 082-520-0308 or Facebook: www.fb.com/simplyorganicsBKK

Green Leader

Brian Hugill and Lalana Srikram

- Raithong Organics Farm

What is the goal of your CSA project, the Munching Box?
It’s a tool for converting more farmers to organic farming, and getting existing farmers to increase their organic acreage, as well as provide a stable and growing channel for suppliers. Obviously this is a bit different to how customers see it—a product in its own right—but these are mutually supportive views. We need customers to achieve our aims and customers want the Munching Box to get better and better.
What are your accomplishments regarding the Munching Box?
It is developing into a larger platform for the organic lifestyle. Our current retention rate for the CSA box is about 70-75%, depending on the season, which I believe is about average for such programs in the US. Up to July 11, 2013, we delivered 23 tons of seasonal organic fruit and vegetables. We do our best to source only local, high quality, artisanal products—using organic ingredients wherever possible and also working with suppliers to go green with their packaging.
What’s your plan in the next 5-10 years?
We’re working on improving the transparency of our value chain by building upon our rice planting/harvesting trips, hosting food events and giving lectures at schools. The next step will entail building up the agro-tourism side of things, developing a farmer-to-farmer, customer-to-farmer organic certification system, implementing random pesticide and nitrate testing, improving the nutrient density of our products, ramping up our involvement in urban agriculture (through the new BeeKK initiative, www.facebook.com/BeeKKUrbanBeekeeping) and so on. And in the longer run, we also hope to be able to expand to other locations in Thailand and ASEAN once we’re happy with our current model in Bangkok.
Contact: www.raitongorganicsfarm.com

Where to buy the good stuff

Raitong Organics Farm

Raitong (www.raitongorganicsfarm.com) is doing a community-supported agriculture (CSA) box under the name CSA Munching Box, which also comes with a few helpful recipes. Monthly subscription is B2,000 plus a weekly delivery charge starting from B60.

Health Me

Health Me is not only a good healthy restaurant, they also support farmers with their CSA Box (B4,200 for 12 baskets) sourced from provinces like Ang Thong. In front of Ratburana Soi 30, 086-332-8266. Open Mon-Sat 9am-5pm.

Saijai

Located in Vipawadee Soi 22, Saijai offers various activities for kids to learn about their vegetables and how to grow them, as well as food delivery with a changing menu depending on the produce they get from the farmers and their home garden. Vipawadee Soi 22 (behind St. John University), 087-915-3440. www.saijaihealthyfood.com

Urban Goat

Piramit Paitayatat

- Goat Milk Farm

Why start a goat farm?
I love goats. I played with goats since I was a kid as my granddad raised some in our backyard. But then he stopped, and it’s so hard to find goat milk in the city. So five years ago, I started trying to find goat breeders in the Muslim communities around Bangkok. I found two goats to start with and now I have nine.
How much do you produce daily?
We can milk about 8-10 liters per day. After we milk the goat in the morning, we will steam it at 70-80 degrees Celsius to pasteurize it. We are a big family so we normally keep about five liters to consume. The surplus we sell to our neighbors who come to pick it up every day.
Is it hard to have farm animals in the city?
Yes. We have to pay more attention to cleanliness. Controlling the smell is the most important thing. We put EM [effective microorganisms] solutions in the dung to get rid of the smell. We also clean the goat before we milk them to get rid of their strong aroma, which can get in the milk, too. We then make sure the milk goes straight into a bottle. It reduces the milk’s contact with air as milk absorbs smells quickly.
Why go through all this effort?
It’s safer. Goat milk is full of nutritional value, more than cow milk, but it’s more expensive, too. Cow milk is B25-B40 per liter while goat milk is B70-B100. Kids allergic to cow milk can drink goat milk, too. I raised my two children with goat milk. I wouldn’t give it to my children if it wasn’t good for them. You don’t have to worry about food safety if you have your own farm.
Contact: Piramit 081-689-8061

Herbal Haven

Duangkamol Vephula Waagensen

- English Herb Garden

What inspired your rooftop garden?
I like English-style herb gardens. I have so many vegetables and herbs like rosemary, holy basil and eggplants and you can always mix them with flowers to make the garden more colorful.
What’s the best thing about growing your own vegetables?
I get to create new dishes all the time, which nowadays I share on my Facebook page (www.facebook.com/praekitchen), too. The new recipes are dependent on our new produce; just recently, I did baked rice in grape leaf. It was fantastic, very aromatic. I never knew that grapes grew so easily. Our dog, Herky, also loves eating all the vegetables and herbs.
What’s your favorite easy-to-follow recipe?  
For a nice refreshing drink, I always pick out rose petals from the garden. You take two rose buds, 170 grams of lychees, one teaspoon of rose syrup and four pieces of peach. Mix them in the blender and you’re done.

DIY Farmer

Nakorn ‘Prince’ Limpakuptathavorn

- Thai City Farm

What got you started?
Even though I studied agriculture during my Bachelor’s and Master’s degrees, many of the classes taught us to use chemicals to grow vegetables. But there was a class about sustainable agriculture which sold me on the idea of being self-reliant. It’s good for our health and for the environment. I wanted to buy land out of town and grow food there but my family still lives in Bangkok, so I had do it another way.
What are the benefits?
It’s more than just the feeling of achieving something. It’s a journey where you meet new friends and a new community. The vegetables are definitely more delicious, sweeter and crispier. My mind is free when I’m in the garden. I grow so many vegetables that often I have to give them away to others—and that’s a source of joy.
What’s the most important thing about growing vegetables?
Everything matters. But what people might not is the importance of soil. Natural soil produces the most beautiful plants. It’s like in the jungle where everything grows and fertilizes itself.
What are the difficulties of vertical planting?
It gets very dry real quick. But if you have good water management, it will be fine. The important thing is to cover the soil with the leaves to maintain moisture and to protect the soil when you water them. Some plants love their soil a bit dry and it is fun observing the different conditions that different vegetables prefer.
Do you think Thai people still relate to the pak suan krua (literally “vegetables from garden to kitchen”) ideology?
This was more noticeable during the government of Plaek Phibunsongkhram when the economy was not at its best and people still had their own land. About 20 years ago, bio-organic consumption boomed along with Lemon Farm shops. As time goes by, we sometimes forget but, hopefully, places like the Lak Si District Office prove that we can still grow our food in limited spaces.
Contact: www.thaicityfarm.com

Health Boosters

Charina ‘Aom’ Nguansamang

- Saijai Healthy Food

How did you start growing your own food?
My husband and I always thought we could control our lives before my husband found out he had cancer. The doctor said that there was no need to change his lifestyle, but we disagreed. We took issue with our food. Cutting out chemicals from your diet is easier said than done, so we started building networks among people who shared similar ideas and began to grow our own. We then started a food delivery service with produce from these farmers and from our own farm.
What are your tips for growing vegetables?
It’s about having a heart, to start with. There’s actually not much to learn. Just don’t expect too much and let nature do its job. The fun is ing experiencing it for yourself. If vegetables grow in their proper season, they will turn out beautifully. Also, grow vegetables that encourage you—for some, growing a whole cabbage, eating it and then having to start again is too much, so plant things like holy basil and watercress where you can grab a few leaves and let it grow on. For budding farmers, the best time to give planting a try is around the end of rainy season.
Why are you focusing on teaching children to grow vegetables?
We have courses for children as we think they can change their attitudes more easily than adults. I think that when kids learn, parents also learn. I think we can all change and lead more balanced lives.
What’s a good diet for those living in the city?
Eating what you grow brings you happiness but supporting the farmers who turn their back on chemicals is just as important. The money you pay for their food empowers them to work harder and stay on the right track.
Contact: www.saijaihealthyfood.com
 

Feast

The place: Feast café is proving a draw for the young and chic. Connected to the Kem Issara Studio, the café, owned by Kem’s friend, Pakorn Damrongwattanapokin, sits amid a beautiful garden. Sip some coffee in the lovely house, with its large black-framed windows and pretty decorative items including colorful fabrics from Kem Issara. The café is hidden down the soi, so it may take some finding.  
The food: Typical café-style fare. Coffee starts from B65, while an affogato (espresso and vanilla ice cream) will set you back B130. Enjoy your brew along with some pancakes with ice cream (B145) and breakfast waffles (B190). Lunchtime offers specials of the day, such as khao moo tord (rice topped with deep-fried pork, B145) and panini with ham and cheese (B75).
1029/49 Ekkamai Soi 22, 02-713-3261. Open Tue-Sun 10:30am-8pm

Singha Life

The place: Singha’s men’s clothing store just opened its first cafe in Siam Center. And the décor is all very masculine—think industrial style with plenty of black steel and wood.
The food: The place takes advantage of its family restaurants, Est. 33 and Farm Design. So you’ll have your pick of all the familiar fusion dishes which take up about half of the menu. Try the grilled pork sandwich (B180) or one of the mouthwatering cheesecakes like Choco Mooooo (B105). And, of course, it’s hard to go past a sip of Singha beer during your shopping break.
3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1177. Open daily 10am-10pm

WWA

The place: Local designer WWA just moved to a new address in the same old ‘hood, Siam Square. The cool, loft-like space has an unfinished feel to it, with plenty of bare cement, exposed steel and traces of the old structure. The café is actually a few years old, but is mostly the domain of WWA’s loyal customers who come in to shop and drink tea on the furniture all covered in black fabric. It’s definitely worth a visit, though—just make sure you wear the right dress to the party.
The food: The one-page menu is dominated by exquisitely presented desserts from English pastry chef Davina Pickering whose signatures include the delicious rum chocolate brownie served with cream shot (B160) and homemade tamarind and mascarpone cream with bread (B150). You can also get English faves like the scone with clotted cream (B150) and Welsh rarebit (B200). Have it with the refreshing summer tea (B90). Keep an eye out for their brunch menu coming soon, too.
428 Siam Square Soi 7 (next to Swensen’s), 02-658-4686. Open daily 1-9pm

BoYY Café

The place: One of the pioneers of the Thai fashion accessory scene, BoYY finally has its own flagship store at Grass. Even better, downstairs is dedicated to a café which couple Wannasiri Kongman and Jesse Dorsey have decked out in a classy vintage vibe. The crowds that flock here are fun to watch, with bicycle hipsters sitting side by side with well-heeled women and well-dressed guys. If people-watching isn’t your thing, you can always admire the beautiful tiles from Italy.
The food: Mainly comfort food that harkens back to the couple’s time spent in places like New York and Italy. Dishes include the sandwich with chicken, roasted peppers and parmigiano (B200), a plate of salami (B500) and spaghetti puttanesca (B250). But don’t skip on the salad—the shrimp and avocado salad (B300) comes with a tangy vinegar-based dressing mixed with their secret ingredients. As a bonus, you can enjoy solid cocktails like The Passionate One (B280) or Jimmy’s Old Fashioned (B280) out on the handsome long wooden table on the terrace. Topped off with a cool soundtrack selected by Dorsey, BoYY Café really is a great chill-out spot.
Grass, Thonglor Soi 10, 02-715-9412. Open Sun-Thu 7:30 am-midnight; Fri-Sat 7:30-1am
 

Bread and Western: Tinee Eatery

The course: After many years spent running a café in Melbourne, Chef Sutinee Suntivatana has returned home to open the Aussie-inspired venue Tinee Eatery. Bare brick walls and some chalk drawings lend the place a loft-like vibe, while upstairs there’s space for cooking workshops. The courses cover basic tips and techniques Chef Tinee has learnt from her time at various hotels. What we’re really looking forward to are the bread-making courses coming up soon. Lessons are taught in Thai and English.
The price: B5,900 for 3-course menu lesson featuring dishes like Moroccan shrimp skewers and pork tornado with potato wedges and red wine glaze.
1213/45 Town in Town, Sriwara Rd., Ladprao Soi 94, 083-015-4555

Italian: Dusit Thani College

The course: The school was originally reserved for professional courses, but lately they’ve staged many interesting short programs in collaboration with international institutions. Currently they’re running seven courses with Italian Publishing Company Gambero Rosso specializing in Italian cuisine. Taught by an Italian chef in English with Thai translation.
The price: B18,000 for two days. For example, Jul 20-21 is all about pasta while Aug 17-18 is Roman cuisine.
1 Soi Kaengthong (next to Seacon Square), 02-361-7811. www.dtc.ac.th

Chinese: Je Ngor

The course: Thai-Chinese food ain’t the cheapest, so to save some of your dining-out budget, head to this well-regarded seafood establishment to try their short courses that allow you to pick any dish from its menu. Taught in Thai.
The price: Depends on your selection and the ingredients used, but anywhere from B3,000-B12,000.
527 Mahaset Rd., 02-268-0801-2, 02-234-8275. jengor-culinary.com

Asian: V School

The course: A bit far out of town but this school is a fun spot for those of you who want to roll some fusion sushi or make some of the dishes you’ve seen in your fave Korean TV series. The Peranakan owner, Walter Lee, has been operating the place for more than 20 years and there are courses for kids, too. Taught in Thai (English translator is available upon request).
The price: Japanese desserts course is B4,500, ramen is B16,000 and Korean is B13,000.
238 Ladprao Soi 1, 02-939-2172. www.thevschool.com

Indian: Hazara

The course: This beautiful restaurant is not just famous for their yummy Indian food and exquisite antiques. They also offer short (two-hour) Indian cooking courses that teach you how to whip up favorite dishes like Punjabi samosa, murgh makhani (butter chicken) and saag paneer (spinach and cheese). Classes are mostly held on Wednesday, Thursday and Friday and are taught in English.
The price: B3,000 for four dishes with lunch. Minimum of six people.
Sukhumvit Soi 38, 02-713-6048-9. www.facebars.com