Bangkok’s women chefs speak out

A woman’s place is in the kitchen, or so we have been told. At home, cooking is often regarded as a female job. But in the working world—in this case the professional kitchen—women are clearly in the minority. However, the good news is that many women chefs manage to beat the odds. Here are five of Bangkok’s best.

Chef Zariya “Paula” Charoenphol

Her Kitchen: The shop-house-wide Delicatezza is always full of well-off regulars who come for home style Italian cuisine. Chef Paula, who spent 25 years in Rome, Italy, takes pride in her homemade pastas. Reservations and patience are needed since it’s a one-woman show in the kitchen.

Why do you think there are so few female chefs?
Maybe it’s because people tend to think that men are more diligent and patient than women. But personally, I think it’s the contrary. Plus, we are open-minded, while men can sometimes have a big ego.

Does being a woman affect how you run your kitchen?
Not really. From time to time, people think I’m a tomboy because I’ve adopted macho traits in the kitchen. All my staff are guys, but they are all scared of me because I scold them whenever they do something wrong. Every evening I have to prepare 60-70 dishes simultaneously. I do it all by myself. Call me crazy, but I want each and every diner to enjoy the same delicious food, even on their 100th visit.

Delicatezza, 351/3 Thonglor Soi 17, 02-382-2850. Open Mon 5:30-11pm, Tue-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm.

Chef Meyung Robson

Her Kitchen: Though there’s nothing to write home about in regards to the décor of this no-frills 10-seat restaurant, we can’t say the same about the food. Run by a former FBI agent, Xuan Mai serves up the best Vietnamese food in Bangkok, winning over local gourmands as well as picky Vietnamese expats.

Where did you train?
Cooking has always been my passion. I never had formal training to be a professional chef. I channel my passion into my cooking, and recreate all the authentic Vietnamese dishes that I remember tasting when I was growing up in Vietnam.

Do you think being a woman has created any challenges for you?
This is a great question for me! I truly believe that there is no challenge too great to tackle, and where there is a will, there is a way. I joined the Federal Bureau of Investigation in the US as the very first Vietnamese, and a war refugee as well. I moved to Thailand to function as the first female Asian diplomat for the FBI. I was responsible for the capture of two Top 10 FBI Most Wanted fugitives from the US. And with all this background, somehow I managed to be a chef at my own restaurant. This says a great deal about how a woman, any woman, can conquer all challenges that life throws at us.

Xuan Mai, 32 Sukhumvit Soi 13, 02-251-8389. Open Tue- Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30pm-midnight.

Chef Thanunya Kaikaew

Her Kitchen: Blessed with the backdrop of the Chao Phraya River and a stunning view of Wat Arun, it’s no surprise The Deck is fully booked almost every night. Chef Thanunya’s food is also what keeps the diners coming back to this charming restaurant.

Why did you become a chef?
My grandmother cooked for Professor Silpa Bhirasri, so I’ve been familiar with cooking since I was a kid and that grew into love. Later I began taking a proper class in France and graduated from Le Cordon Bleu.

Do you think being a woman has created any challenges for you?
I don’t think gender creates any challenges. If you are hard-working, passionate about the job and able to deal with stress, male or female, you can be a chef. For me, the challenge is creativity. Here, the menu changes every three months according to seasonal ingredients. Plus, I have to prepare set menus for special holidays, so I always have to come up with new tasty dishes and deliver them with artful presentation.

What’s a dish you recommend for women?
They all like low-calorie, healthy dishes, so my recommendations would be grilled mushroom with extra virgin olive oil, and rocket salad with Parmesan cheese and sun-dried Italian tomatoes topped with balsamic dressing. Salmon belly skewers are also good for ladies since they’re loaded with beneficial omega 3.

The Deck, Arun Residence, Soi Pratoo Nokyoong, Maharat Rd., 02-221-9158. Open daily 11am-10pm.

Chef Nooror Somany Steppe

Her Kitchen: Blue Elephant’s sophisticated interpretations of classic Thai specialties and opulent décor have made it a hit internationally as well as here in Bangkok at the flagship property on Sathorn Road.

As a woman, what are your biggest challenges and how do you deal with them?
The biggest challenge is to control the whole restaurant. Though I now have 27 years of experience and have managed to run my kitchen professionally with an organized system, I never stop learning and always try to improve myself.

What’s a dish you recommend for women?
Namtok tuna (Isaan-style spicy tuna salad). Fish is the best meat and this dish also comes with fresh salad and sweet basil dressing. It’s fresh, healthy and tasty.

Blue Elephant, 233 South Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. Open daily
11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm.

Chef Sylvie Bruzeau

Her Kitchen: Tamarind Café needs no introduction. The three-story restaurant-cum-gallery with a rooftop garden is a haven for vegetarian and health-conscious diners. Its flavorful dishes would make meat lovers temporarily forget that it’s vegetarian food they are eating.

Where did you train?
I never had a formal training, but I was lucky to be raised in a family where we always ate “proper” good food cooked by my mother, and with vegetables coming from our garden.

Why do you think there are so few female chefs?
I guess women are still very much shy and feel the pressure from their husbands to be a conventional wife. Being a chef is a hard job with long and late hours, so of course you cannot really pick up the kids at 4pm! Your social life has to shift and it is not always easy to sustain a relationship or have a family life.

Do you think being a woman has created any challenges for you?
When we opened the first restaurant in Hanoi, Vietnam, the country was not that open yet. It has been a challenge to establish one’s “authority” upon older male staff. We need to work harder in order to prove that we are capable and can fit in in often male-dominant fields. The challenge was not really being a woman, but opening and running such a business. The good side of it, especially in Asia where, on top of being a woman I am also a foreigner, is that people are sometimes “nicer” and more willing to help.

What’s a dish you recommend for women?
I am not a sweet person, but I love baking and creating dessert for my customers. I would love to use the breast-shaped molds of artist Pinaree Sanpitak for my dark chocolate gateau with caramelized lime zest—it would perfectly satisfy all senses and fantasy.

Tamarind Café, 27 Sukhumvit Soi 20, 02-663-7421. Open Mon-Fri
3pm-midnight, Sat-Sun 10am-midnight.

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Four generations of the same family have run the restaurant of the Dolada Hotel, located in Pieve D’Alpago, Veneto, Italy. The son of Michelin-star chef Enzo De Pra, Chef Riccardo De Pra is the latest and by far the most innovative. He is known for his “Artistic Cuisine” that pairs classic ingredients with modern techniques. Catch him in the kitchen at Italianate (The Conrad Bangkok, Wireless Rd., 02-690-9999. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6-11pm) Mar 12-17; Chef Riccardo will also be conducting cooking classes Mar 13 and 17.

Did you always want to be a chef?
No, I started cooking because I didn’t want to go to school at the age of 16. I started to love the job at the age of 21 when I was working for the Roux brothers in London.

How’s it feel to have a father who is a Michelin-star chef? Do you feel any pressure living up to that reputation?
No, my father always gives me helpful advice, especially about the ancient regional cucina Italiana.

What kind of food do you enjoy eating?
Seafood and Asian recipes from Japan, Thailand and Indonesia.

What’s your favorite cooking technique?
The ancient way of cutting used in Japanese kaiseki cuisine.

How do you take criticism with regard to your food?
As the only thing that permits me to do it better.

Where do you get your inspiration? Are you afraid of running out of inspiration?
Hey! I’m not a poet.

From the point of view of a man who makes cheese himself, how important is cheese in Italian cuisine?
Of course cheese is very important in Italian cuisine. That’s why I won’t mix any good cheese with other ingredients. It’s like using a very good wine for cooking. Yes, you can do that, but a winemaker wouldn’t do that to his son.

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Twenty-one year-old Chinawut Chantanatrat (Cheno) may still be in university, but he’s been break-dancing since 1999. As a member of the best break-dancing crew in Southeast Asia, the Ground Scatter Breakers, he’s represented Thailand and Southeast Asia in the Battle of the Year, an international break-dancing competition in Germany. You may have seen him practicing near MBK, Seacon Square or Tawanna 2. This month, he starts a new class at Alliance Francaise. By Matthew Murray.

How did you start break-dancing?
I saw it on TV, in a music video, and loved it right away. I tried to copy what I saw, but I could not. So I searched on the internet and I found my answer.

What was the scene like back then?
In 1999 there were not so many break-dancers and every move was very new for us. So we challenged each other every day.

How has the scene changed?
Now there are about 300 dancers in Bangkok, and it’s different because everybody knows the moves, but they don’t know the attitude. Break-dancing is about your character, your style, your original moves. Not just copying each other. I think the important thing is creativity, not just doing a move, but thinking about it and creating something new.

Can anybody do this?
At the beginning, everyone is very bad. You need to practice a lot.

What’s your favorite music to break to?
Funk, like James Brown or the Incredible Bongo Band, old skool hip hop, acid jazz and electronic.

What will be taught in the workshop?
I’ll teach the foundations of breaking—toprock, footwork and freeze—and the basics of hip hop culture.

Which are?
Hip hop is about peace, unity, love and having fun, not about the gangsta thing. It’s not a bad culture. We have no need to fight because we don’t have a bad attitude, we battle just for fun.

What’s in your future?
I want to have my own studio...a hip hop academy.

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Etc., five teenagers from Chiang Mai, have traveled a long way to make their dreams come true. From casual musicians to bonafide recording artists, So, Nueng, B, Mint and Ole have pooled their diverse talents and interests with harmonious results.

What’s the difference between this album and the previous one?
So:
This album is more fun than our first one. The name of the album is “Plien” [Change] and we changed many things. Our drummer has become a lead singer, we switched to a new label, and unlike our first super-chill album, our music is now more frantic.
Nueng: Mellow moods are still in our album but we added more upbeat melodies too this time around.

What does Etc. mean?
B:
Etcetera means we like all kinds of different music even though we choose to play together. Some of us like standard and fusion jazz; others are fond of R&B and rock. We blend our passions and find a harmony in it.

What would you say to those who would like to get where you are now?
So:
Success takes time. We all have been through many things to get to this point. We have been playing music since we were in university. We joined lots of contests and played in pubs until P’Aom, a producer from GMM, found us and invited us to launch an album. From the beginning until now, we never changed our goal, which is to make good songs for audiences and for ourselves. You must try hard and practice all the time.

What do you get from music?
Nueng:
Playing music is like trying to hook up with a girl. Every time I’m on a stage, I'm full of adrenalin. It’s kind of exciting when I think that I’m just a normal person who’s standing in the spotlight. But the best thing is that I have a chance to do what I like and to be myself. It makes me really happy.
So: I get satisfaction knowing that there are people out there who love what we do.

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Like a shooting star, Thailand’s first model to make it big on the world stage burned bright and then quickly faded from view. Looking nothing like the Miss Thailand ideal, this farmer’s daughter from Ubon was discovered 12 years ago eating noodles on the street and then controversially took first prize in a career-making contest. Soon “Yui” was a covergirl, the face of a Chanel perfume and shuttling between New York, Paris, London and Milan. But with fame and fortune came parties and drugs, which would be her downfall, and the next thing we heard she was being arrested for beating up her mother. Five years later, Yui has reemerged—first on the talk show circuit and now modeling for Naughty Monkey. She’s also working on a pocketbook to tell her story.

I was with my family in the countryside, not working, for five years. I’ve been doing interviews and a little bit of modeling. But things have been going slowly, not like before. I want to work, but there aren’t a lot of jobs for me.

I’m 31 now. When people say things about me, it doesn’t bother me so much. Before I was so sensitive, but I’m more confident now. I believe in myself.

Sometimes I miss what I had before. I miss the catwalk. And the photo shoots. I miss doing commercials, too.

When I was 19, a lot of people said I shouldn’t have won that contest. That made me sad. But I was happy that the company from New York thought I was perfect for overseas.

I never felt beautiful. When I started shooting for Vogue, Chanel, seeing myself in magazines, I changed. I still didn’t feel beautiful, but once I saw the pictures I said, “OK, I can be beautiful”—well not beautiful, just photogenic.

When I see the Chanel poster, it makes me happy. I’m proud of myself. But also I remember it was not just me—it was photographers, stylists, assistants. Everybody worked together to come up with the picture.

When I was “hot” I was so full of myself. I was making lots of money, and money can make things easier. But then I started spending a lot. I mean a lot, a lot, a lot. And my ego was so big.

My family told me, “Yui, you must not go out so much, you must save money, you must get close to your mother.” They tried to tell me many times, but I didn’t want to talk to them. I was too cocky.

I lost everything because I was partying too much. I took drugs. It affected my work: like I was late a lot. And I didn’t do a good job. I became another person.

When I had money, I had a lot of friends. I spent a lot on them. But then when I didn’t have money, everybody was gone.

Family is important. When I lost everything, I had nobody—just my mother.

If I could do it all again, even if things would end up the same, I would do it. Even if it’s not all nice, I think it’s good to have experience. Experience makes you stronger. It helps you grow up.

I would tell a young model who wants to make it that she has to be strong. I would say, “Be yourself. Don’t let others try to make you something you are not.”

Don’t always believe everything people tell you. Keep far away from drugs and bad people.

I don’t believe in plastic surgery for myself. I might consider it, but not doing it is better. Because if I do it one time, I’ll have to just do it again and again.

Girls should realize that they can be pretty in their own way regardless of their race or nationality. Thai girls should be proud of how they look and should have the confidence to show it off.

I accept who I am. I’m a country girl. Normally models have to be from a good family, rich, a different background. So for me, a farmer’s daughter, to make it as a model, is something.

I’m lucky, because everyone has been really nice. Some people are proud of me, of what I did for Thailand. This gives me strength. So I’m very happy. And I’m happy that people still remember me.

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Challenging the stereotype of a blind band—street-side, open hat, quaint music, pitiful—is Ionion, whose members are sight-impaired. Hack, E, Jack, and Den are now releasing an album, Ninth Side, through Here Records; their pop-rock songs are heard on Thai radio; and the band was invited to appear on the HM Blues album.

How did you get together?
E:
I was playing music when I could still see, joining school and friends’ bands. But when my sight got blurry, I went to work at the Association of the Blind, where I met Jack. He’s the association’s music instructor. We got along and decided to set up this band.

Jack: I used to be able to see. But I had an accident when I was 14. Strangely, when I lost my eyesight, my urge to play music grew stronger. Then I became an instructor here.

Den: I was born blind and I’ve been playing music for 10 years. Jack and I have been friends since school.

Hack: When I developed sight problems, I was lucky to find the association, and to meet Jack.

How badly does your blindness affect your music?
Jack:
When I finished school, I had to decide my future—whether or not to learn music to make a living. The grown-ups didn’t approve of it. People have a negative attitude towards blind musicians. But I knew what I wanted. Studying wasn’t a problem; I just had to try harder than the others. My friends helped me. For music, I use my ears and my memory.

Den: Music is never a problem; it’s my salvation.

How do you combine your different musical tastes to make a single album?
E: Basically, we all like rock music but we blend in what we like. So this album is pop-rock with punk and other things.

Hack: This album is a compromise for us. It’s our beginning; we’ll learn from it.

Why “Ninth Side”?
E:
When Thai people face a serious problem, they say it’s mued paad dan [being in the dark on all eight sides]. We like to think, even when you’re in total darkness, there must be a ninth side where there’s light. The ninth side has brought us here.

What do you expect from this album?
Hack:
It’s the work that we want people to hear. We try very hard. I hope people will give it a try.

E: I want people to buy this album because they really like it, not because they pity us. If you don’t like it, if it’s not good, don’t buy it.

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A volunteer vacation can be the best adventure you’ve ever had.

Goose down comforters, swimming pools, room service and fancy wining and dining are important factors for a “good” holiday for most of us. For others, what makes their holiday worthwhile is “being good,” even if it means a lot of sweat, dirt and weird food, all in exchange for some genuine smiles. “Voluntourism” (volunteering plus tourism) is the new way to get out of the city to a place close to nature, to make a connection with locals and to help improve something, whether it be the environment or the living conditions of people much less fortunate than you. This can take many shapes: environmental work, teaching, building homes and taking care of the elderly, the disabled, animals or children. You might not return home with a tan and a full shopping bag, but the rewards and memories will put any 4-day/3-night beach package to shame.

This idea has yet to catch on among Thais. Working for others on your own dime, during your holiday to boot, still sounds like something verging on insanity. But these trips can turn out to be more fun and cheaper than a traditional vacation. Apart from the benefits of homestay (authentic local food, habitat and language, getting truly immersed into a community, experiencing real nature and the vibe of a place), what you get is to really communicate with locals and meet interesting fellow volunteers. Homemade yaadong, centipede naamprik, or taking a swim with the buffalos is not on any “close to nature” hotel’s list of features. So for the ultimate travel experience, and the opportunity to help others, here is who to go to.

Getting ReadyFirst Hand Experiences

Habitat for Humanity


Who:
Habitat for Humanity is an organization that has the same kind of international brand recognition as Starbucks—except they don’t sell coffee: they make you work for others. It’s an independent non-profit group, run mostly by volunteers and financed by donations, with 2,291 affiliates worldwide. They specialize in building homes for those in need of adequate shelter. But the house owners don’t just sit back and watch their house getting built. This is a sweat equity business. People who want to enjoy the benefits of the program need to complete 50 hours helping to build their neighbors’ houses. The result is that volunteers work shoulder to shoulder with house owners and the neighbors. Most volunteers are foreign tourists, while Thais usually come on company trips.

Where: Habitat for Humanity is now working in 11 provinces in Thailand: Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Lampang, Khon Kaen, Udon Thani, Nakornratchasima, Bangkok, Royong, Phang Nga, Phuket, and Ranong.

Commitment: It can be a day, a week, a month, a year, or a lifetime—up to you.

You should know: They don’t provide you with accommodation, food or transportation—nothing. And you will understand the life of a laborer is pretty hard soon enough.

Feel-good factor: You know you are not helping a lazy bastard. You work with the house owner and his neighbors, while learning the culture and language. Who knows, you might get a travel companion or a free guide from there.

How to join: Contact them beforehand at SSP Tower, 15/F, 555 Sukhumvit 63, Klongton Nua, 02-711-6934, www.habitatthailand.org. Walk-in volunteers are occasionally accepted as well. You can help them also by sponsoring a house for B120,000 or by giving any amount you are comfortable with.

Holidayish rating: 2/5
There’s nothing for leisure provided, except interaction between you and the locals. Making this a little bit more of a holiday is entirely up to you.

Kroobannok


Who: Supported by the Mirror Foundation and sponsors, this non-profit foundation welcomes volunteers to help educate hilltribe children. It is popular among young Thais, and the volunteers are mostly students, with very few foreigners. So far it has completed 89 trips, each to a different hilltribe village. Kroobannok allows volunteers to teach and, in turn, be students of life. They believe that by teaching us city animals, it opens the horizons of doi kids as well.

Where: Each trip is to a different hilltribe in Chiang Rai.

Commitment: Five-day/four-night. But if you have a group of people, you can ask them to customize your trip.

You should know: Some hilltribes can be as far from the road as a one-day walk and you will need physical strength as well as a light pack—so much for the Louis Vuitton trunk, there are no sherpas in this package. The food can be very different from what you are familiar with and the weather at night can be freezing. They don’t provide transportation to Chiang Rai.

Feel-good factor: It can be a good cultural exchange. You stay in a villager’s house, living with them and eating with them. It’s a chance to take a deep breath of fresh air also. There will be no pollution, no mobile phone signal and no traffic jam, so you have to live without technological interference for a few days. In most places, the scenery is also stunning. Most villagers treat volunteer teachers with high gratitude and respect.

How to Join: The next Kroobannok trip is scheduled for March 1-5 to an Akha village. You can register by logging on to www.bannok.com/volunteer or call Kroo Jadet at 08-7183-3705. The fee is B890 per person, not including transportation to Chiang Rai.

Holidayish rating: 3/5
They will take you to a signature place of this province where you can eat local food before heading to the village. Apart from trekking to your destination, the kids will take you on their fishing, or wood-gathering trips.

Tsunami Volunteer Center


Who: Established in 2005, the center helps people affected by the tsunami. Supported by various NGOs and private sponsors, it works hand in hand with locals and volunteers from around the world. It works on both physical and mental relief: home-building and repairing damage but also education and putting smiles on people’s faces. They need volunteers with various skills: construction, translation, IT, communications, fundraising, human resources and English teaching.

Where: Khao Lak, Phang Nga.

Commitment: Usually one month.

You should know: Not good for superstitious people.

Feel-good factor: It’s Khao Lak, you know, where the sea is pure and scenic, especially since the Big One. Homestay with a local family will put you in touch with Southern culture as you go fishing, make batik and collect rubber from trees. Translators are provided for non-Thai speakers. It’s quite a full option tour with everything from labor work to teaching.

How to join: Contact Tsunami Volunteer Center, 26/10 Moo 7, Takua Pah, Phang Nga. 076-485-541, www.tsunamivolunteer.net. Or call Voluntourism Project Manager, Khun Krongkaew at 08-9882-8840.

Holidayish rating: 4/5
They design the program for leisure and comfort as well as for goodwill.

Jumbo River Kwai


Who: Jumbo River Kwai is a travel agent specializing in holidays in Kanchanaburi. Most of its customers are foreigners from the USA and Scandinavia. Their River Kwai Volunteer Program aims to encourage kids and adults in rural areas to speak English, as English teachers are still in high demand in these remote areas.

Where: Rural areas of Baan Mhong Khao or Moobaan Srisawat in Kanchanaburi.

Commitment: It totally depends on you.

You should know: Teaching English is actually a real job in some parts of the world. Can you handle it?

Feel-good factor: You will stay with a local family far from civilization and surrounded by nature. You will get a chance to observe and help with rice farming and other local activities. And don’t forget to try to pick up the lovely Kanchanaburi accent.

How to join: Contact R.S.P. Jumbo Travel 3/13 Chao Khun Nen Rd., Muang, Kanchanaburi, 034-514-906, 034-512-280, www.jumboriverkwai.com. A one-week trip is B18,600 for two.

Holidayish rating: 4/5
They are professional tour agents so you should have fun.

Cultural Restoration Tourism Project


Who:
CRTP is an international project that works with local communities to restore their cultural treasures. It is a self-sufficient organization and the donations from volunteers coming to visit these places are redirected to the local communities. With long-term impact on the communities in mind, CRTP allows volunteers to immerse themselves into the local culture, work on building up the economy and provide environmental and social sustainability. Their current project is now in Nepal.

Where: A centuries-old monastery in Chairro, Nepal.

You should know: It’s not bad, but you’re going to have to pay the kind of cash most of us cannot afford. Plus you have to arrange for your flights to and from Nepal and a night’s accommodation in Kathmandu. Training is provided, though.

Feel-good factor: Nepal is a country of rich culture and stunning art and scenery. Apart from learning the culture, food and the language from the locals, you will be learning and seeing more about the art, beliefs, religion and architecture. And the whole temple thing is a bit Indiana Jones-esque, isn’t it?

Commitment: 12 days.

How to join: The 2007 schedule is April 22-May 3, May 5-16, May 19-30 and June 2-13. To book, you have to make a US$500 deposit (B17,048) on your total US$2,495 (B85,068, ouch!) donation. Visit www.crtp.net or email [email protected].

Holidayish rating: 4/5
It includes some sightseeing and accommodation in a local village. But most of all, it’s Nepal—wow.

North by North East


Who: North by North East is a travel agency focusing on responsible tourism in Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar and other countries. It has offices in Luang Prabang and Thailand. Most of their customers are foreigners, but they welcome Thais as well. They organize regular tours as well as voluntours which can be customized to their client’s wishes.

Where: Luang Prabang, Laos and Nakorn Phanom.

You should know: Professional tour agents can sometimes make voluntourism feel less genuine and adventurous.

Feel-good factor: They tailor your trip to what you like. It can be tsunami relief, school building, orphanage assistance, cultural conservation or rural education. But things are also up to what locals need at the time of your trip. Homestay ensures you get the “real deal”.

Commitment: Days or months, your choice. But usually it’s a two-week trip with about nine days of volunteer work.

How to join: Contact 8/40 Ban Nongkham, Sangkalok Rd., Luang Prabang, Laos, www.north-by-north-east.com/voluntourism.asp. Prices usually are usually US$60-100 (B2,026-3,376) a day.

Holidayish rating: 4/5
It’s five days of pure fun and nine days of culture shock. Leave it to the pros to make it a great holiday overall.

The Foundation for Karen Hilltribes in Thailand


Who: Supported by the Karen Hill Tribes Trust, a UK-based charity, this foundation aims to help improve heath, support education and encourage sustainable living for Karen people in Thailand.

Commitment: Usually they need teachers for a semester of three months or for the summer break (eight weeks).

Where: In a remote Karen community.

You should know: You’ll need to commit a big block of time.

Feel-good factor: You will be living with the Karen and even be given a Karen name. You will teach English to children in a local school and learn Karen at the same time. It’s a great way to taste the food, the life and the culture of the Karen.

How to join: Contact the office at 16/4 Soi Intamara 15, Sutisarn Rd., Payathai or call Julia Virulchanya at 02-271-1787, 08-1899-5563. www.karenhilltribes.org.uk. The prices are around €1,000-1,750 (B43,898-76,707) for a three to six month trip or €600 (B26,291) for eight weeks.

Holidayish rating: 4/5
There’s plenty of time for traveling since you’re staying there for so long.

Eco Explorer Thailand


Who: As the name suggests, Eco Explorer Thailand is all about eco-tourism. They provide multiple choices, from homestay travel, veterinary travel to volunteer travel. As they show you the beauty of nature, they also try to promote nature conservation.

Commitment: Recommended for two to four weeks.

Where: They are now offering six voluntourism programs: Elephant Mahout Project (Pattaya), Dusky Langur Conservation Community Project (Prachuabkirikhan’s Khao Sam Roi Yod National Park), Gibbon Rehabitation Project (Phuket), Wild Animal Rescue and Education Project (a rain forest near Baan Talae Nork, not far from Ranong), Kho Tao Animal Clinic (Surat Thani’s Koh Tao Island) and Umphang Homestay English Teaching (Tak).

You should know: These jobs might get your hands dirty, even stinky.

Feel-good factor: If living in the wild is your dream, here’s your chance. These guys are all about real nature and real animals. You will be learning and also educating locals about animal conservation and might become a real mahout in the end.
How to join: Contact 217/1 M00 12, Soi 15, Thepprasit Rd., Tambol Nongprue, Banglrmung, Chonburi, 038-303- 941, www.ecoexplorerthailand.com. Or email [email protected]. B21,824 for the first week and B20,825 for any additional week(s). Walk-in prices are B14,000 for a week without transportation.

Holidayish rating: 2/5
You will be working a full 8 hours a day. That doesn’t leave much time for touring.

Remember the Boyscout Motto: Be Prepared

Life may not be easy out there. There might not be malls or 7-Elevens for you to grab things you need to survive. Before you go, make a list of what to take with you. Here are a few suggestions.

In General:

Books. In a place that may or may not have electricity, you won’t be able to kick back and watch TV, so a book may come in handy. A phrase book for whatever language they speak where you’re going will also help. Check out www.amazon.com or browse around the gigantic Kinokuniya at Siam Paragon (3/F, 02-610-9500/-19).

Notebooks. This could be your journal, diary or sketchbook. Preserve your experience by drawing or writing things down. For cute and lovely ones, try Mola (442/6 Siam Square Soi 11, Rama 1 Rd., 02-654-6276, www.mola.co.th).

Sleeping Bag. If the weather’s too cold or the mattress too hard, your very own sleeping bag can make a huge difference. An air mattress and pillow might be good, too (if you have room in your bag). You can find a sleeping bag for around B400-1,600 and an air mattress for about B1,200 at Karana Travelgear (481-3 between Sukhumvit 25-27, 02-261-5210/1, www.karanatravelgear.com). The lighter the better if you plan on trekking.

Food. We know it’s all about experiencing the local flavors, but the cuisine du jour may not look too tasty all the time for you. It’s not a bad idea to bring something to eat for emergencies. It’s also something you can share with the locals.

Medicine. Smart travelers pack First Aid kits “just in case.” Bandages, paracetamol, Actifed (good for helping you sleep) and mosquito repellent are always good. In some places, you might need some vaccines, too—ask your doctor.

Flashlight. Quite helpful at night, especially for places that don’t have electricity. Equinox (3/F Siam Discovery, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-0340, www.equinoxshop.com) has hand-held, key ring and head-band torches for around B590-3,500.

For Tech-addicts:

GPS Navigator. In case you get lost, and there’s no hero by your side, this will help. The Global Position System can keep an eye on you, no matter where you are…as long as your batteries don’t run out. GARMIN eTrex GPS Navigator is available at Sport Mall Global (2/F, Siam Paragon, B8,000).

Satellite Phone. With this high-tech gadget you will never lose touch, wherever you are. You can talk or send faxes in places with no phone signal. The weight is quite light, too—model R190 weighs just 210g with the battery. Prices are around B25,000-45,000. Check out AceS (www.acesthailand.com, 02-502-4000).

Emergency Mobile Charger. Lengthen your chitchatting hours with this special charger that runs with standard batteries. Charge-N-Go is available at Equinox (3/F Siam Discovery Center, 02-658-0340, www.equinoxshop.com, B799).

For Chic Chicks:

Mineral Water Spray. Helps refresh and cool your face when the washroom is too far away. Try Evian, available at Boot’s.

Body Deodorant. Very important, seriously. Always remember to use this so your co-workers don’t faint.

Waterless Hand Washing Gel. Wash your hand instantly, anytime, anywhere. B65 at Equinox (3/F Siam Discovery Center, 02-658-0340, www.equinoxshop.com).

Baby Wipes. Another useful item for cleaning your hands, face or body away from a washroom. Just don’t imagine a baby’s butt while wiping. Available in most supermarkets. 

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First Hand Experience

Thanyathorn Kosetskornpong (Plum), 25, student at Thammasat University 

“The Kroobannok trip with Mirror Foundation really left an impression. The hilltribe kids are pitiful. Their parents are poor and don’t know how to earn a living, except going in town each day, 40-50km away, to work at farms or gardens. They leave the children at home unattended. The kids cannot even sing the national anthem. Some of them are of school age but never go to school because the parents don’t have money. I taught them how to sing our national anthem. Some of them don’t have manners. They are very skinny, with big heads and lack nutrition. They eat nothing but naamprik and salt…they don’t even have sugar.”

Phansiri Mongkolprasit (Fon), Assistant Manager, Public Relations Officer at CitiBank

“I’ve been to Korat with Habitat for Humanity many times. It’s part of CitiGroup’s initiative to give something back to society. CitiGroup has long been helping the organization in sponsoring houses each year. It’s a three-day trip, with accommodation provided by the company. You cannot finish building a house in three days, but I feel really good to be able to give a little help to the villagers. The work is quite laborious, digging earth or carrying things, and you work in the sunlight all day, but it’s a good feeling—seeing the smile of the locals and hearing thanks from them. Even though we had box lunches, sometimes the locals cooked for us. It’s usually simple dishes like khai jiaw but we really appreciate their generosity. I got to sightsee a bit, too.”

Peter Wowkowych, 44, architect for Sony Pictures Entertainment, California, USA
“The work with the Cultural Restoration Tourism Project can be as hard or as easy as you make it. We spent two weeks restoring a centuries-old Tibetan Buddhist monastery—Chairro Gompa. Some people spent all their time restoring the artwork, using fine brushes to clean the paintings and woodwork from years of dirt and debris. Others, including myself, divided our time between working on the artwork and more labor-intensive work: hauling out collapsed timber roofs and stone walls from the monk’s quarters of the monastery complex. It was such a new experience for all of us that every day brought new discoveries as we cleaned the art. Even when hauling timber, we would discover interesting details of the buildings buried in the years of rubble. The scenery of the snow-capped Himalayan Mountains was a stunning place to work, as well. To be surrounded by the highest mountains on Earth is an awe-inspiring feeling. I still keep in touch with many people both in the volunteer group as well as some of the Nepalese people we worked with. I quickly became close friends with the Kathmandu architect working on the project with us. Since I too am an architect, we had much in common.”

Claudia Thompson, 57, carpenter, California, USA

“I’m volunteering for Elephant Mahout Project with Eco Explorer and I’m very happy about it. I’ve learned some amazing skills and it’s an honor for me that I can do this for the elephants. I’ve always been interested in elephants and working here just increases my love for them. There are ample facilities and life is quite easy. I’ve got many friends here, Thais and British. I want to tell other people that this is a once in a lifetime experience. Working with animals is very important and we still need a lot more volunteers.”

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Ezahn Bueraheng and Sarun Chiewchan, artists and friends, are free spirits who have teamed up for a duo exhibition titled Only This Moment. The two graduates of Silpakorn University mix different ideas and perspectives on a common theme.

What’s your day job?
Ezahn:
I own a small art gallery in Trok Mayom, Khao San. My two friends and I produce original artworks for sale there.
Sarun: I’m a freelance, making made-to-order models, of superheroes for example.

Are there any differences between making art as a business and doing an art show?
Ezahn:
When I paint for sale, I spend an hour for about six pictures. It’s sketches that can be sold. I keep sketching until I get something that I really like and then I process the idea for my art exhibition. Exhibition works take much longer time.
Sarun: For me, it’s completely opposite. Making models for sale is something that requires very precise details and that I have to do in a way that customers like. While doing the exhibition, I express a more complete picture and I don’t need to go into minute detail or be that delicate. I just touch on my concept, so I can leave fingerprints and so forth on the sculptures.

Why a duo show?
Ezahn:
It’s a coincidence. We made our own works, which were different in styles and perspective, but after we talked, we found out that they're based on the same ideas.
Sarun: And we’ve been friends since school.

What do you think of the other’s works?
Ezahn:
My concept is like a striking feeling that suddenly hits me at that moment. While Run’s is something that takes time.
Sarun: His works catch my attention; they are something new. Ezahn works on inner feeling, but mine is more outward.

Why Art Gorilla Gallery?
Sarun:
Sometimes small-name artists like us cannot get into the big galleries. Small art venues like Art Gorilla give us a chance to exhibit our work.
Ezahn: It’s an opportunity for audiences as well, so they can have a great variety of choices.

Ezahn, is the model in your paintings you?
Ezahn:
Yes. My face can express it all.

What’s behind your art, Sarun?
Sarun:
It’s my past; my ex actually.

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Peerapat Tenwong, vocalist of the band Crescendo, was in desperate straits not too long ago, and almost quit singing altogether. Then a powerful spitiual experience coaxed him to start again, and he now sings with emotional strength, heart and soul.

When I was a child I sang all the time, and I did not know that I did it well.

My biggest discouragement was from RRR&B’s one and only album because it got very bad feedback. I was so down after that, I stopped singing. I thought this career was fake and I couldn’t make a living from it. I stopped singing for two years.

Meanwhile, whenever I hung out with friends at live music places or doing karaoke, I felt I wanted to sing so bad.

I had no jobs and had many problems, so I prayed to God that if he is protecting me, please tell me why I was born. I cried and prayed to him because I was so down at that time.

The morning after, there was a phone call that asked me to go audition for a cartoon soundtrack. I got that job, and then realized that God answered me.

Nothing in this world is certain.

Nop Ponchamni asked me to enter the Global Battle of The Bands (GBOB) Competition. We all agreed it would be good to see bands from other countries.

The competition was cool. It opened a whole new world for us. We met bands from other countries and saw how they performed.

Even though we didn’t win the competition, it was a great experience. Many things I saw there made me want Thai bands to be like that—each band to have their own signature style.

The Thai music industry is kind of bad because people just buy only MP3s and they listen to whatever is famous at the time, but not because they really like the music.

Artists work with their heart and soul. If you want us to stop singing, buy pirate CDs. If you still want to listen to us, please buy the copyrighted work.

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Back in the day when sugary pop music still reigned supreme, she was half of a Dojo City pop duo known as Niece. But now, Ki Kiratra Promsaka na Sakolnakorn is back on her own two feet, all grown up and ready to take on new challenges. Her first solo album, White, came out Feb 6. Check her out on www.myspace.com/kikiratra.

You disappeared from the music scene for a while. Where were you?
I was studying for my bachelor’s degree in marketing at Southern New Hampshire University.

What kind of music can we expect from this album?
It’s a soul-pop album, which has a more rhythmic melody to it. I worked on this album with another Small Room artist, Ball Jarulak Chayakul, who helped me compose the songs.

Is working on this album much different from what you did with Niece?
It’s more challenging as now I have more responsibilities. The good thing is that the album can be more personal, more “Ki.” With Niece, we had to compromise. Also the music is different. It used to be simple and melodic, but now I have to follow a different singing pattern, depending on the emotion of the song.

Who influences you musically?
Lately, I’ve been listening to neo-soul artists such as Jill Scott, Erykah Badu, and Corinne Bailey Rae.

Why “White”?
It’s white because it is my first solo album—an empty canvas that’s waiting to be painted by my music.

What’s your favorite track on this album and why?
I like “Our Small World” because the music and the lyrics are much darker than what I used to make. It’s more emotional and not the bright, shiny music that people seem to expect from me. It’s another side of me that I only share with few people.

If you weren’t a musician, what would you like to do?
I would love to study psychology, but there aren’t any English-language programs here. The passion in my life is still making music, though. I will also try my skills at being a DJ also in the near future.

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