Bangkok’s women chefs speak out

A woman’s place is in the kitchen, or so we have been told. At home, cooking is often regarded as a female job. But in the working world—in this case the professional kitchen—women are clearly in the minority. However, the good news is that many women chefs manage to beat the odds. Here are five of Bangkok’s best.

Chef Zariya “Paula” Charoenphol

Her Kitchen: The shop-house-wide Delicatezza is always full of well-off regulars who come for home style Italian cuisine. Chef Paula, who spent 25 years in Rome, Italy, takes pride in her homemade pastas. Reservations and patience are needed since it’s a one-woman show in the kitchen.

Why do you think there are so few female chefs?
Maybe it’s because people tend to think that men are more diligent and patient than women. But personally, I think it’s the contrary. Plus, we are open-minded, while men can sometimes have a big ego.

Does being a woman affect how you run your kitchen?
Not really. From time to time, people think I’m a tomboy because I’ve adopted macho traits in the kitchen. All my staff are guys, but they are all scared of me because I scold them whenever they do something wrong. Every evening I have to prepare 60-70 dishes simultaneously. I do it all by myself. Call me crazy, but I want each and every diner to enjoy the same delicious food, even on their 100th visit.

Delicatezza, 351/3 Thonglor Soi 17, 02-382-2850. Open Mon 5:30-11pm, Tue-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm.

Chef Meyung Robson

Her Kitchen: Though there’s nothing to write home about in regards to the décor of this no-frills 10-seat restaurant, we can’t say the same about the food. Run by a former FBI agent, Xuan Mai serves up the best Vietnamese food in Bangkok, winning over local gourmands as well as picky Vietnamese expats.

Where did you train?
Cooking has always been my passion. I never had formal training to be a professional chef. I channel my passion into my cooking, and recreate all the authentic Vietnamese dishes that I remember tasting when I was growing up in Vietnam.

Do you think being a woman has created any challenges for you?
This is a great question for me! I truly believe that there is no challenge too great to tackle, and where there is a will, there is a way. I joined the Federal Bureau of Investigation in the US as the very first Vietnamese, and a war refugee as well. I moved to Thailand to function as the first female Asian diplomat for the FBI. I was responsible for the capture of two Top 10 FBI Most Wanted fugitives from the US. And with all this background, somehow I managed to be a chef at my own restaurant. This says a great deal about how a woman, any woman, can conquer all challenges that life throws at us.

Xuan Mai, 32 Sukhumvit Soi 13, 02-251-8389. Open Tue- Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30pm-midnight.

Chef Thanunya Kaikaew

Her Kitchen: Blessed with the backdrop of the Chao Phraya River and a stunning view of Wat Arun, it’s no surprise The Deck is fully booked almost every night. Chef Thanunya’s food is also what keeps the diners coming back to this charming restaurant.

Why did you become a chef?
My grandmother cooked for Professor Silpa Bhirasri, so I’ve been familiar with cooking since I was a kid and that grew into love. Later I began taking a proper class in France and graduated from Le Cordon Bleu.

Do you think being a woman has created any challenges for you?
I don’t think gender creates any challenges. If you are hard-working, passionate about the job and able to deal with stress, male or female, you can be a chef. For me, the challenge is creativity. Here, the menu changes every three months according to seasonal ingredients. Plus, I have to prepare set menus for special holidays, so I always have to come up with new tasty dishes and deliver them with artful presentation.

What’s a dish you recommend for women?
They all like low-calorie, healthy dishes, so my recommendations would be grilled mushroom with extra virgin olive oil, and rocket salad with Parmesan cheese and sun-dried Italian tomatoes topped with balsamic dressing. Salmon belly skewers are also good for ladies since they’re loaded with beneficial omega 3.

The Deck, Arun Residence, Soi Pratoo Nokyoong, Maharat Rd., 02-221-9158. Open daily 11am-10pm.

Chef Nooror Somany Steppe

Her Kitchen: Blue Elephant’s sophisticated interpretations of classic Thai specialties and opulent décor have made it a hit internationally as well as here in Bangkok at the flagship property on Sathorn Road.

As a woman, what are your biggest challenges and how do you deal with them?
The biggest challenge is to control the whole restaurant. Though I now have 27 years of experience and have managed to run my kitchen professionally with an organized system, I never stop learning and always try to improve myself.

What’s a dish you recommend for women?
Namtok tuna (Isaan-style spicy tuna salad). Fish is the best meat and this dish also comes with fresh salad and sweet basil dressing. It’s fresh, healthy and tasty.

Blue Elephant, 233 South Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. Open daily
11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm.

Chef Sylvie Bruzeau

Her Kitchen: Tamarind Café needs no introduction. The three-story restaurant-cum-gallery with a rooftop garden is a haven for vegetarian and health-conscious diners. Its flavorful dishes would make meat lovers temporarily forget that it’s vegetarian food they are eating.

Where did you train?
I never had a formal training, but I was lucky to be raised in a family where we always ate “proper” good food cooked by my mother, and with vegetables coming from our garden.

Why do you think there are so few female chefs?
I guess women are still very much shy and feel the pressure from their husbands to be a conventional wife. Being a chef is a hard job with long and late hours, so of course you cannot really pick up the kids at 4pm! Your social life has to shift and it is not always easy to sustain a relationship or have a family life.

Do you think being a woman has created any challenges for you?
When we opened the first restaurant in Hanoi, Vietnam, the country was not that open yet. It has been a challenge to establish one’s “authority” upon older male staff. We need to work harder in order to prove that we are capable and can fit in in often male-dominant fields. The challenge was not really being a woman, but opening and running such a business. The good side of it, especially in Asia where, on top of being a woman I am also a foreigner, is that people are sometimes “nicer” and more willing to help.

What’s a dish you recommend for women?
I am not a sweet person, but I love baking and creating dessert for my customers. I would love to use the breast-shaped molds of artist Pinaree Sanpitak for my dark chocolate gateau with caramelized lime zest—it would perfectly satisfy all senses and fantasy.

Tamarind Café, 27 Sukhumvit Soi 20, 02-663-7421. Open Mon-Fri
3pm-midnight, Sat-Sun 10am-midnight.

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