Local indie stores are reinventing and relocating to make way for even more fabulous buys.

Fashionistas perpetually crave new things, so it makes perfect sense that stores reinvent themselves to keep up with the times. Local multi-label menswear store K.I.N. (Know It Nothing) shut its Haji Lane outpost last month to focus on its number two outlet at Pact in Orchard Central. And lifestyle furniture store Fred Lives Here has just moved into the same space. Meanwhile, multi-store concept Actually consolidated its two stores into one at 313@somerset, and luxury flea market concept Robe Raiders recently moved into a new permanent home located inside an industrial warehouse. We chart the latest movements in the indie shopping scene to see what these newly relocated shops have to offer.

Then: K.I.N. and Fred Lives Here
K.I.N. was one of the first few fashion stalwarts along Haji Lane, selling hard-to-find international indie labels since 2008. Fred Lives Here, tucked along a quiet street off Orchard Road at Emerald Hill Road and operating on a by-appointment-only basis, was one of the most innovative home furnishing stores in town.

Now: Pact
The three-in-one concept store—previously featuring only K.I.N., cafe Kilo and hair salon Kizuki+Lim, set up earlier this year—recently expanded its floor space to include Fred Lives Here, with an unnamed art gallery joining the fray within the next month. The latest buzz is centered on the new 2,000 sq. ft. now home to Fred Lives Here, which carries funky furniture from Thailand’s Propaganda and the UK’s Ooh Deer.


Then: Robe Raiders Pop-Ups
Created by fashion designer Sarah Tan, fashion designer Resham Melwani and business development manager Claudia Sondakh, Robe Raiders have been selling new and used designer clothes at ad-hoc bazaars at venues like Kha and Palais Renaissance for the past three years, as well as through the online store www.roberaiders.com.

Now: Robe Raiders
The goods are the same—essentially a well-curated range of used but good-as-new fashion offerings from covetable luxury labels and past season designer items like Alexander Wang, Isabel Marant and 3.1 Phillip Lim at a fraction of the cost—but now they’re available for physical viewing five days a week in a 16,000 sq. ft. warehouse space.


Then: Fred Perry Laurel Shop
The former shop at Ann Siang Hill was styled after an eccentric English home with its mix of traditional, quirky vintage collectibles and modern industrial finishing—the only store here that carried the more premium Laurel Wreath Collection collection as well as collaborations with the likes of Raf Simons.

Now: Fred Perry Laurel Wreath Collection Shop
Its two-month old space at Mandarin Gallery is more mod, with a smorgasbord of vinyls decked on the walls like a hip indie record store. Currently on the racks are still sought-after Laurel Wreath collection, including apparels, accessories and shoes, for both men ($159 upwards) and women ($109 upwards), as well as collaborative pieces with fellow Brit designer Christopher Raeburn and Raf Simons ($239 upwards).


Then: Actually+, ActuallyActually and ActuallyARC
Over the past eight years, store owner Paul Khor has been working hard at his craft to bring exclusive funky indie labels to his three stores located all over town, including Arab Street and Seah Street. Now, he has realigned the brand by consolidating the different elements from the various shops into one.

Now: Actually
A best-of really, featuring ready-to-wear and accessories from labels like Freitag, Boy London, Kanken and Lazy Oaf, previously available separately at its various outlets, plus new brands like HUF and Joyrich—with more additions like Penfield, Suit and Vagabond dropping later this year. The vibe at this two-month old 800 sq.ft. store down at 313@somerset is still very lively, jam-packed with a colorful selection of clothing.

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A few ways to set sail on the Andaman Sea, even if you can’t afford your own yacht.

With its good year-round sailing weather and proximity to at least 30 smaller, idyllic islands, Phuket has become the sailing and yachting hub for Thailand. And it seems the world’s taking notice, too. The organizers of the Singapore Yacht Show (www.singaporeyachtshow.com) recently announced a sister yacht event to be hosted in Phuket from December 2014 to sell the region as a charter destination, while many Mediterranean-based yacht owners and captains are seeing it as an increasingly popular winter destination.

The island is already home to four full-service marinas, all located on the eastern side of the island—Royal Phuket Marina (Koh Kaew), Yacht Haven (Laem Phrao), Phuket Boat Lagoon (Koh Kaew), and Ao Po Grand Marina (Ao Po)—and countless yacht charter operators providing various types of cruises. With peak cruising season beginning in December, now’s the time to hit the water.

One of the major draws of yachting is that it provides a better chance to really explore the smaller islands of the Andaman. When you are looking to book a trip you have three main options: either to hire a bareboat yacht, a fully crewed yacht or—the middle ground—a bareboat yacht with a skipper.

A bareboat charter is where you take full responsibility for the boat and the trip, which means navigating, mooring, motoring, cooking and cleaning. It can be likened to renting a mobile vacation home, where you have the freedom to go wherever you want, whenever you want. But before you set sail for the high seas do note that at least one of your party must have a marine skippers certificate (see Get Qualified).

Booking a crewed boat, however, can make for a much more relaxing holiday, as you don’t have to worry about doing any hard work. The downside can be having to stick to a more fixed itinerary. Many operators offer this option, with up to six crew members to take care of all necessities.
Hiring a bareboat charter with a qualified skipper means you have someone on-board to take responsibility for the navigation but you still get the feeling of sailing your own boat. The skipper will most likely look to involve you by asking you to help out with everything from raising the sails to dropping anchor.

Get Qualified
When it comes to bareboat charters, most charter companies ask for one to three years’ skipper experience on a similar size yacht. Keppel Bay Sailing Academy (6303-8448, http://www.marinakeppelbay.com) have yachts available for charter and also offer sailing courses. For those with no previous experience, there is the five-day live-on-board RYA Competent Crew course, in which you sail between ports in Singapore and Batam. The course ranges from $1,150 to $1,450, depending on when you do it. The next level is the RYA Day Skipper course, in two parts, shore-based ($1,050) and practical ($1,550), five days for each part, which certifies you to charter a boat yourself.

THE PARTY CRUISE

Hot Tropics
The good folks at Zouk have just teamed up with online cruise specialist Openseas to organize a five-day, four-night trip to Langkawi and Phuket on November 15. You’ll get to travel to two beautiful beachfronts in Asia on a luxury liner Costa Victoria, party with Zouk DJs like Adrian Wee and djB from dusk till dawn, and even learn Pilates and  how to mix your own cocktails. Sounds like a sunkissed plan.
PRICE: From November 15-19, $562 per person.
MORE: 6823-3153, www.openseas.com.sg

SOCIAL TRAVELER’S PICK

The Sail Spin
If you love meeting new people and want to hit the water with a minimum of fuss, this option could be for you. Organized by Sunshine Nation, a Singapore-based event and travel company that’s been up-and-running for about 18 months, The Sail Spin is a flotilla sailing event that takes place about 10 times a year involving up to 20 yachts cruising together through the Andaman Sea. Gather a group of friends and book a yacht to yourselves, or—if you’re more social—secure a cabin and go with the flow. While sailing generally requires a lot of preparation, The Sail Spin crew takes care of most of basics: your yacht’s pantry is fully stocked, while professional skippers take the ship’s helm. It’s not all about topping up your tan and sipping cocktails on deck, though; your skipper will be more than be happy to send some sailing tasks your way. The itinerary is a mix of sightseeing and partying (Koh Phi Phi), a touch of luxe (private beach dinners at high-end resorts; visits to two of Phuket’s chicest beach clubs, Catch Beach Club on Surin Beach and Xana Beach Club on Bang Tao Beach) and the adventurous (cliff jumping and kayaking). They also run a pirate radio station with DJs on-board, making even the less-glamorous jobs like cooking and cleaning more fun. Do note that while Instagram-ready scenery abounds, professional photographers are also on-board to document your trip.
Price: An upcoming Sail Spin event to setting off from Yacht Haven takes place Jan 30-Feb 4, 2014 (five nights/six days) from $3,500 for a double cabin or from $6,600 for a four-person, 32-foot yacht up to $31,200 for a 12-person, 58-foot deluxe yacht with private chef and special amenities.
More: 9006-6557, www.thesailspin.com

THE CUSTOMIZED EXPERIENCE

Jabudays
Founded in 2008, Jabudays offers customized cruise-based events including weddings, teambuilding exercises and company retreats. Their Turkish Gullet flagship, the 75-foot Jabuticaba, can cater for up to 60 people for day charters and also be used for longer island-hopping cruises, sleeping 12 in six cabins. Where the company excels, though, is in tailoring one-of-a-kind experiences, under themes like meditation and yoga cruises, adventure cruises, and networking events. Programs can involve nights spent at luxury hotels where the fleet docks or stop-offs for scuba diving or even kite surfing—it’s down to your preference. The spacious yacht, is also the site of much luxury, replete with sunbeds, while massages, live music and bartenders are all available on-board. Detailed sample programs are provided on the website and you’re invited to tweak them to your liking.
Price: Day charters and customizable tours like yoga and meditation charters start from B52,000 ($2,066), while overnight charters are from B190,000 ($7,550) with a minimum of eight people.
More: +66 08 5666-5504, www.jabudays.com

THE CREWED RENTAL

Tiger Marine Charter
Tiger Marine is a charter operator that offers fully crewed cruises, especially suited to those new to yachting. If you’re a first-timer, Zimbabwean owner Richard Hayes assures us that his flagship catamaran, the 70-foot Shangani, makes the ideal starter boat due to its sheer size, comfort and stability. Setting off from Ao Po Marina, the company’s most popular run is a day charter through the idyllic Phang Nga Bay to what Hayes dubs his “private beach,” a clear sweep of sand that he’s negotiated exclusive access to with the owners. Here, the scene is set with proper dining tables, beach games, massage benches and live music. Other attractions are the water Jacuzzis anchored just off the beach, aqua slides and water trampolines. Three-day and week-long charters are also available, taking in everywhere from Krabi to the Similan Islands, though cruising on the west coast of Phuket is only an option during high season, as between May and October the monsson winds mean the seas are too rough.
Price: From December to March, B172,500 ($6,854) a day (24-hour period) for 15 people, cheaper in the quiet season. Large groups of up to 50 come in at B187,500 ($7,450) for a day charter.
More: +66 08 1893-9742 or +66 08 9866-4401, www.tigermarinecharter.com

THE BAREBOAT OPTION

Elite Yachting
Founded back in 1993 by two Swiss sailing enthusiasts, Elite Yachting now claims to operate the largest independent bareboat fleet in Phuket, with 22 yachts ranging from 32-50 feet, including seven catamarans, in different price categories. Bareboat bookings require a “marine skippers certificate” and at least one year’s experience (recently reduced from three) on a similar-sized yacht (you can also hire a qualified skipper to accompany you). Bookings are taken one year to one week ahead of the trip. Christmas and New Year is their most popular period, with most yachts booked out up to eight months in advance. A suggested one-week itinerary involves visiting Phang Nga Bay National Park to see the spectacular limestone sea karsts—full of secret caves to explore by dinghy. Then cruising by the long sandy beaches of Krabi, enjoying the nightlife of Koh Phi Phi, where you can also arrange some diving, before kicking back at a secluded island. However, the sea’s your playground and you can go anywhere from the Similan Islands off the west coast of Phuket all the way south to the Butang group on the Malay borders.
Price: Monohulls start from 190 euros ($324) per day while catamarans are from 370 euros ($632) a day. Hiring a skipper costs an additional 120 euros ($205) per day.
More: +66 08 1968-4188, www.phuket-yachts.com

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Forget the festivals, stop obsessing over big-name international acts. Our home-grown live scene has never been more vibrant.

The evolution of Singapore’s live scene over the last year or two has been pretty remarkable. And we’re not just talking about music, which is in ruder health than it’s been for a long time. Open mic sessions and comedy nights have become increasingly popular, with Home Club and Blu Jaz holding regular nights for aspiring stand-ups. Meanwhile, budding poets, artists and entrepreneurs get to show off at diverse events like SPORE Art Salon and PechaKucha, which open their doors to anyone with an idea and a Powerpoint slide. And a few enterprising start-ups are looking to make it easier than ever to organize, and discover, cool live events.

Of course, some of the old gripes remain: more hype (and money) for high-profile international names, punitively high rent costs and tricky licensing issues (for a particularly salutary story, see our interview with George Grover of the now defunct Broadcast HQ), and a grumbling, widespread refusal to accept that there’s local talent to be proud of.

So, to show otherwise and to celebrate all that’s great about what’s going on right now, we spoke to a bunch of people behind the scenes to find out what makes the whole thing tick.

MUSIC

When it comes to live music, there’s certainly a lot out there: From daily offerings at Timbre, to Blu Jaz’s weekly showcase of lesser know jazz and world music talents, and Hard Rock Cafe’s weekly offerings. We spoke to up-and-coming Gareth Fernandez, who performs regularly at Timbre and Blu Jaz, about the scene.

There seem to be more gigs now than ever.   
The music scene here is definitely growing. I’ve performed at and been to so many events in the past few months, including the SGMUSO House Party and MAAD Sounds. There are tons of live shows with great acts going on and more opportunities for performers to strut their stuff.

What do audiences look for at a live gig?
It’s about having a good time out with your friends. I recently went to see Charlie Lim and the Mothership’s gig at Blu Jaz, where he had completely packed the place out. It was a ticketed event too, which shows people are willing to pay good money, even on a Thursday evening, to go out and appreciate music.

Your thoughts on our live music venues?  
The live venues here are great. I’m grateful for places like Esplanade, Hood Bar and Café, Blu Jaz and Timbre, that regularly feature original music. They understand that new artists need a platform for expression to truly pursue their wildest dreams. I do hope that more establishments will spring up in future, like more jazz or soul bars.

Fernandez performs next at Singapore Originals: The Auditory Effect. Nov 27, 7:30pm, Timbre @ The Substation.


For more rocking live gigs, don’t miss:

Greg Lyon’s Monster Trio
Saxophonist Grey Lyons, organist Chok Kerong and drummer Darren Moore perform a heady jazz set. Nov 8, 9:30pm. Blu Jaz. First drink charge.

Shirlyn and The UnXpected
The brilliant Shirlyn Tan’s undeniably rocking set is still popular after all these years. Every Fri, 10pm. Hard Rock Café. First drink charge.

Blues Jam featuring Raw Earth/Chicken Shack Revival
Smashing blues and rock tunes by two outstanding bands.
Every Sat, 9pm. Barbershop. Free.

ART

For budding artists and poets, the monthly SPORE Art Salon is one platform to showcase their work. New cafe Lowercase also holds a new night featuring a multi-disciplinary set of new talents. Salon’s founder Olivia Kwok tells us why it’s one of the most experimental nights in town.

What happens at the Salon?
The three-hour event usually starts with a 20-minute session of life drawing, which continues between the stage performances that follow. There could be poetry, music, dance, theater, film or visual art. No two editions are the same. There seems to be a big “refresh rate” in audience for each edition, which widens our reach. There are about 80 people on each night.

How has the Salon grown over the years?
We moved from a little cafe in Chinatown, to a one time stint at the now defunct Pigeonhole, then had a good year or two at Blu Jaz. We turn three in November so will be having an extended line up of 10 featured artists comprising of various performance artists and poets.

The next SPORE Art Salon is on Nov 26, 7:30pm. Artistry. $10.


For more artistic presentations, don’t miss:

Lowercase Sessions
This new night at hip new café Lowercase feature poets, artists and writers. “These sessions are created for artists with a stronger and more creative bent, usually those who are a bit more leftfield,” says events coordinator Josh Q.
Nov 8, 15, 18, 8pm. Lowercase. Free.

destination: INK
An established open mic night that showcases new local poets, musicians and storytellers.
Nov 11, 7:30pm. Blu Jaz. $4.

COMEDY

For laugh-out-loud comedy, Jonathan Atherton’s weekly (and perpetually jam-packed) Talk Cock Comedy nights are a must, alongside Kumar’s fortnightly stint at Home Club and the weekly open mic Comedy Masala, if you’re keen to discover budding stand-ups.

What never fails to make Singaporeans laugh?
Making fun of Malaysia is a sure fire way to get a rise out of Singaporeans—almost as much as making fun of Singapore in Malaysia.

Why shouldn’t we just go to a club or the movies?
For an intelligent person live comedy is the ultimate form of entertainment. It demands more in terms of thought process and forces you to confront your ideology. It also spurs post-show conversation, as many serious issues are dealt with in a comedic context.

What would you like to see more of in the scene?
I’d like to see more promoters who actually care about comedy, who try to foster the art rather than focus solely on the business. At a grass roots level the Singapore scene is very encouraging. The promoters come from comedy backgrounds and we work together in a complimentary way. We feel a responsibility for nurturing the new wave of local talent, for building an indigenous comedy culture.

Atherton appears at Talk Cock Comedy. Every Wed, 8:30pm. Blu Jaz. $10.


For more riotous comedy nights, don’t miss:

One Mic Stand
The irrepressible Kumar unleashes his acid-tongued jokes on a riotous crowd.
Second and fourth Thu of the month, 8pm. Home Club. $15 one drink included.

Comedy Masala
Hosted by Umar Rana, this weekly comedy night is a must to discover new comedic talents.
Every Tue, 9pm. Home Club. $15 one drink included.

The Comedy Guide to Singapore
A one-man standup comedy show featuring new talents.
Every Wed, Fri, 8pm. Mulligan’s Irish Pub & Restaurant. $20.

SLAM SESSIONS

Poetry and story slamming sessions can be quite a hoot, with budding as well as established talents like Poetry Slam organizer Deborah Emmanuel, braving the stage to share their creative work (and beat one another in the process). Emmanuel tells us about this riotous scene.

How is the vibe?
It’s quite casual, with a host to show you that poetry doesn’t have to be stiff. The gigs are held at places like Blu Jaz, Home Club, or Aliwal Arts Centre. Poetry Slams and open mics draw people who are there to be turned on intellectually or emotionally. They are respectful but want to have fun, so there’s laughter, audience reaction and silence when it matters.

How have the numbers grown?
The Poetry Slam competitions this year have drawn 40-50 people per event, with highs of 100. We get participating audiences, but most of the time we keep it among the four or five of us on stage.

What about our talent pool?
It’s great. There’s a nice amount of diversity which grows as we are exposed to writers from other cultures and new ways of writing and performing.

What do you want to see more of?
Fearlessness! Open mouths, arms and hearts.

The next Poetry Slam is on Nov 28, 7:30pm. Blu Jaz. $5.


For more slamming action, don’t miss:

This is Awkward
A story slamming competition featuring talents from NYU Tisch Asia. Three audience members will be invited to share their stories on stage.
Nov 11, 8pm. Home Club. $8 one drink included.

CREATIVE PRESENTATION

And for everything else, there are creative presentations like PechaKucha Night and Lean Startup Circle, where photographers, entrepreneurs, journalists, writers, philanthropists and everyone else get to see and present works in casual, fun settings. At PechaKucha, each participant gets to present works in a “20 x 20” format (20 slides for 20 seconds each). Founder Jon Siegel tells us what to expect at these networking nights.

How’s the vibe at PechaKucha?
PechaKucha is a casual affair, no suits or ties, and there’s easy access to drinks. We have an energetic crowd and speakers, all of which create great vibes. PechaKucha Night is similar to TED in terms of curating speakers from different backgrounds for innovative idea creation. If a person is motivated and passionate about sharing unique ideas, we are open to having them speak.

What are the no-nos here?
One thing we are making sure of is that all of the speeches are not sales talks. At an earlier event, some speakers attempted a sales talk and it completely turned off the audience. We learned a lesson from this, and we now pay more attention to presentation contents beforehand.

How’s the response so far?
We’ve hosted six events with 60 speakers. The audience seems to have stabilized around 200-250 people for each event but we’ve had some events where numbers blew past 400. We love it when everyone leaves with a smile and a look of determination from being deeply inspired.

The next PechaKucha Night is in January, 2014. If you’d like to participate or simply attend, log onto PechaKucha Singapore's website


For more cool creative presentations, don’t miss:

Lean Startup Circle
See the latest efforts from entrepreneurs at this popular networking session.
Nov 12, 7pm. Blu Jaz. $10 one drink included.

blinkBL-NK
A social gathering featuring a cross section of artists, academics, designers and entrepreneurs to share little-heard, cool ideas.
Nov 20, 7:30pm. Blu Jaz. Pay as you wish.  

Business Rocks!
Meet business owners and entrepreneurs who are eager to share stories and rant about the start-up industry.
Nov 26, 7:30pm. Blu Jaz. $25 two drinks included.

TEDXSingapore
The upcoming TED session will focus on the latest global inventions, with inventors and designers from the US and Korea.
Dec 7, 10am. Venue to be confirmed. Register at TEDXSingapore's website.

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Browsing the lineups of the region’s upcoming music festivals it’s clear female rockers are in the ascendancy. Here, we present four inspired looks from four hot bands’ leading ladies. 

Young and Fresh 

Headlining the upcoming Laneway Festival in both Australia and Singapore, Glaswegian synth-pop trio Chvrches are one of the hottest bands of the moment. Formed in 2011, the group’s hook-laden debut album The Bones of What You Believe is garnering praise the world over. Atop a moody sound that blends indie with dance, Lauren Mayberry’s sweet vocals add a real emotional directness.
 
Get Lauren’s Look: For a young and fresh look, Lauren doesn’t go in for any overly-sophisticated makeup; rather she leaves her face natural and turns her focus to her lips and eye-liner. We suggest trying Oh My Line Liquid Eyeliner from Etude (B495) and MAC Divine Night Cremesheen Glass (B1,050). Complete the sweet-but-tough look by donning a black leather jacket from Greyhound Original (B9,595).
 

Sophisticated Ladies

American all-female rock band Warpaint, made up of Emily Kokal (vocals, guitar), Theresa Wayman (guitar, vocals), Jenny Lee Lindberg (bass) and Stella Mozgawa (drums), made their debut in 2008 with the EP Exquisite Corpse, which they followed up with their super-successful first studio album The Fool, in 2010. After going quiet for a while, the girls are back with a new single “Love is To Die,” which marries their trademark psychedelic sound with heartfelt lyrics.  
 
Get Jenny’s Look: In line with the sexy sophistication of their music, we really like bassist Jenny’s look that mixes bold black smokey-eyes with sharp red lips. Use Bobbi Brown’s new Smokey Cool Palette (B2,200) and match with MAC Divine Night Lipstick shade Prepare for Pleasure (B890). Top it off with a black blazer from Greyhound Original (B7,595).  
 

Victorian Queen

The Canadian synth-pop band Austra might not be joining the other three here at Laneway Festival, but after performing at Malaysia’s Urbanscapes, the band will actually head to Thailand to be one of the very few international acts at the Big Mountain Music Festival. Compared to fellow synth-pop act Chvrches, Austra’s two albums, Feel It Break (2011) and Olympia (2013), take a more sophisticated turn with a slightly darker sound and dream-like vocals from Katie Stelmanis. 
 
Get Katie’s Look: Katie is hardly ever seen without vivid red lips; we recommend matching it with pearly eye shadow and soft eyeliner for a look that’s a lot sweeter than Jenny’s. We suggest Clinique’s Chubby Stick Shadow Tint for Eye shadow (B650) with MAC Divine collection lipstick shade Private Party (B890). Complete the look with a floral printed item like this Flower Printed top from Pull & Bear (B1,490).  

Sweet Boyish 

Signed to prestigious British indie label 4AD on the back of a couple of self-released EPs, London alt-folk trio Daughter, led by emotive frontwoman Elena Tonra, have made a big splash this year with the release of their debut full-length album, If You Leave. Cue endless touring—including an appearance at the Laneway Festival in Singapore. 
 
Get Elena’s look:  Elena’s short bob with bangs ensures a boyish look. The dark brown hair color is complemented by softly applied light brown eye shadow (we pick Natural Eye Neutral Eye Shadow Collection from Toofaced, B1,850). Keep things natural with Bobbi Brown’s new Bare Pink shade lipstick (B1,000). Match with a shirt with lace or knitted details to maintain your femininity like this lace top from Topshop (B2,450) and velvet shorts (Topshop, B1,990).
 

Essentials
 
MAC, Bobbi Brown and Clinique. M/F, Siam Paragon Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000. BTS Siam. 
Etude House. Siam Square Soi 7, Rama 1 Rd., BTS Siam.  
Greyhound Original. 3/F Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd.,  02-251-4917. BTS Siam.
Pull & Bear. 2/F CentralWorld Ratchadamri Rd., 02-613-1796. BTS Siam/Chidlom. 
Topshop. G/F CentralWorld Ratchadamri Rd., 02-613-1796. BTS Siam/Chidlom. 

 

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Get Saint Laurent’s latest fall/winter 2013-2014 varsity jacket for less.

Pull & Bear, B1,990. Pull & Bear, B2,990.

Zara, B3,790. Zara, B3,790.

Topman, B3,190. Bershka, B2,790

Top picks to complete the look

 

Varsity burgundy and navy snapback cap, Topman, B990. Noir shirt, Greyhound, B5,795. 

T-shirt, Pull & Bear, B790. Black neppy skinny joggers, Topman, B1,950. Leather sneakers, Zara, B2,990.

Essentials
 
Topman, Pull & Bear Bershka, and Zara. 2/F CentralWorld Ratchadamri Rd., 02-613-1796. BTS Siam/Chidlom. 
H&M. 1/F Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000. BTS Siam.  
Greyhound. 3/F Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd.,  02-251-4917. BTS Siam.
 

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Welcome winter with seasonal blooms and a real cool breeze in Doi Angkhang. 

Doi Angkhang has long been known as the place where HM the King’s Royal Projects began, in a bid to rid the Northern hills of opium fields. Some 30 years later, the valley is a lush green, replete with popular attractions like beautiful gardens and fruit plantations. Those who crave cool weather will also be delighted to note that temperatures here sometimes drop below zero—during late December and early January, frost is commonly found on the grass. Here’s what’s making present-day Doi Angkhang more than just a retreat from the heat.  

Farm Route

You might regularly hear about food sourced from the Royal Projects but Ang Khang Royal Agricultural Station is actually where it first started. On the 2.2-kilometer ring road around the station, you can hop out and visit plantations where they grow various kinds of cool weather fruits such as pears, peaches, strawberries, persimmon, kiwi fruit, pomegranate and blueberries. One you can’t miss is the Japanese apricot plot, which has been used as the setting for many romantic scenes in Thai movies and lakorn (just think of Nadej and Yaya in Torranee Ni Nee Krai Krong). Here, apricot trees dot the lush green carpet-like field. Opposite is the equally enticing vegetable demonstration plantation where you will be amazed by the colorful vegetables grown in a big open-air greenhouse. For flower lovers, too, this is a paradise. There are many flower gardens inside the station which are a sight to behold, especially in winter, such as the English Rose Garden and the Bonsai Garden. The most fascinating is probably the outdoor Eighty Garden, situated in front of the Angkhang Club, while the Flower Green House is another can’t-miss for its botanical wonders. When the afternoon arrives, a visit to the Tea Storage is another good option as tea is another popular product grown here. You can walk around or opt to ride one of the mules that the station offers during winter—contact the station in advance at 053-450-107/9, www.angkhangstation.com. The real good news is this year is set to be the first year that the Japanese sakura will bloom at the station, in late November, as opposed to the praya suekrong (Thai cherry blossom), which bloom late December or early January. 

Sunrise Route

Chasing the sun is a popular activity in the hills of the North. There are many spots to catch the sunrise, the easiest to reach being at the Angkhang Military Base, near the camping point on the way to Nor Lae village. Choose from the wooden terrace at the military compound or the small hill at the camping point. After watching the sun come up, you might want to stretch your legs on the 30-minute Nor Lae trekking route which offers great views of the mountains over in Myanmar. Another great way to welcome the morning is by paying a visit to the strawberry fields and tea fields of the 2000 Plantation—nothing like a view of a misty mountainside to start the day. You can also spot gulab panpee (rhododendron) some 4.5 kilometers from the station. The best time to see the flowers here is December-February when the fresh blooms go all the way up to the summit, called Nern Pankao, the highest hill in Angkhang at 1,928 meters. Afterwards, in March, you’ll find lots of fireflies around the station, too. 

Cultural Route

There are three main villages where visitors can get a glimpse of the local hill tribe culture, the most popular being Nor Lae village. The villagers belong to the Palong or Dara-ang tribes and are the main people responsible for growing the produce at Ang Khang station. Sat on the hill above the village is Nor Lae military base where you can enjoy another panoramic view of Myanmar’s mountains. Another can’t-miss village is Khob Dong village, home to the Mu Ser Dam tribe who live here in bamboo houses dotting the hill. The slightly more developed Ban Luang village, meanwhile, is a Yunnan village where a lot of Chinese migrated to during WWII.

Food Route

You don’t need to search far and wide for a feed as there’s plenty of good stuff to be found inside the Royal Agricultural Station. Head to Angkhang Club for a true taste of the valley with a long list of dishes ranging from hill tribe specialties to produce from the royal projects. Their kha moo with man tou (braised pork with fried Chinese bun, B100) is particularly moreish, as is the nam prik Angkhang (B80), made with the hill tribes’ fermented soy bean paste recipe. Salads are also highly recommended with the ingredients picked fresh from the station. Other dining options require a bit of exercise, but if you head to Ban Luang Village you can try the tasty khao soi (curry noodle) made in the Yunnan style at Ali (053-969-431, 081-022-6570). The soup here is clearer and not as thick as the typical Northern version. Their salapao (stuffed Chinese bun) with black bean is a great dessert option, too. 

Essentials

Where to stay

Angkhang Station Guesthouse. 

Cozy accommodation is offered on-site at the station from two people per room up to five people per room. Rates during winter are B1,500-B5,500 per night. 053-450-107/9, http://www.angkhangstation.com

Angkhang Nature Resort. 

Owned by the Royal Project Foundation but run by Onyx Hospitality Group, the resort is sat in front of the station. As the weather gets pretty cold in the winter, the hotel is equipped with electric blankets. Rates start from B3,000 for a mountain view room and B3,500 for a garden view. 053-450-110, http://bit.ly/16nQ6MH

How to get there

By Car 

From Chiang Mai, take Highway No.107 passing Chiang Dao district until you reaching Fang district then turn left onto Road No.1249 for the station. 

By Bus 

Make your way to Chiang Mai then choose from several options to get to Doi Angkhang. The easiest way is to catch the daily commute offered by both vans and buses at Chang Puak Gate. When you reach the entrance of Doi Angkhang, there will be a small bus to take you up to the station.

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Danish microbrewery Mikkeller’s brewer and co-founder Mikkel Borg Bjergso was recently in town for a series of talks and appearances at The Great Beer Experiment. So we grabbed him and had him share what he thinks are the three hottest trends in beer right now. 

Cans
“Canned craft beers are a big thing in the States; you can get extremely good beer for very little money, and that’s why it’s so big there. It keeps better, you don’t have to keep it out of sunlight, and it’s a lot cheaper to ship.”
Evil Twin Hipster Ale. $9 from Working Title.

Citrus
“Using citrus fruits in beer is really popular at the moment—in the brewing community, we've actually started talking about ICU rather than IBU (International Bitterness Units). There are so many citrus fruits being used now, like yuzu, orange, lemon, lime. I think it’s perfect for beer.” 
Mikkeller Green Gold IPA. $13.50 from The Great Beer Experiment.

Low alcohol
“Low alcohol with a lot of flavor is a big trend at the moment. I’m often asked what I think the perfect beer is, and in my opinion that would be a beer without alcohol—but with all the flavor—so you can drink it like water.”
Brewdog Dead Pony Club. $7.50 from Thirsty - The Beer Shop.

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Style Notes: Nana & Bird, In Good Company, MUJI and more

Type: 

Birds of a Feather
What started out as a pop-up concept store by owners Georgina Koh and Tan Chiew Ling has now expanded to include two boutiques. Nana & Bird’s latest flagship store (#01-65, 59 Eng Hoon St., 9117-0430, www.nanaandbird.com) retains the intimate, homey vibe of its sister outlet, but offers different labels spanning ready-to-wear, accessories and home wares such as Heinui from France, Los Angeles-based Building Blocks and British brand Falcon Enamelware.

All for Love

Topics: 
shopping
Author: 
Crystal Lee
Issue Date: 
2013 Nov 4 - 23:00
Images: 
In Good Company, Singapore
Nana & Bird (Eng Hoon), Singapore

While we wait for more Mexican restaurants to come to Bangkok, we celebrate the Day of the Dead (Nov 1-2) with the best Tex-Mex dishes in town. 

Chili con carne

Commonly known as just chili, this Texan-style spicy stew of peppers, beef, tomato and often beans highlights one major difference between Mexican and Tex-Mex cuisine: cumin. This harks back to the 1700s when the Spanish came to Texas, bringing with them Moroccan spices that the Tejano have been using ever since. You might be surprised how Texans top off many of their dishes with chili or just eat it on rice. 

Have it at: Roadhouse, Rama 4 Rd., 02-236-8010. www.roadhousebarbecue.com. Open daily noon-1am

Burrito

This is a classic Tex-Mex adaptation. While the straight-up Mexican version is mainly just beans and meat in a tortilla, the Tex-Mex version is much cheesier (cheese figures a lot in this cuisine, you’ll note), while add-ons like sour cream, guacamole and potato make it a whole lot richer.

Have it at: La Monita, Mahatun Plaza Arcade, 888/26 Ploen Chit Rd., 02-650-9581. BTS Ploen Chit. Open daily 11:30am-10pm. G/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-7660. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-10pm

Huevos Rancheros

This classic breakfast dish usually consumed in rural parts of Mexico is mostly just fried eggs, tortilla, tomato and chili sauce, but the Tex-Mex version really dresses it up through the addition of sour cream, cheese and vegetables like avocado or onion specific to different areas.

Have it at: Charlie Brown’s, Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-2215. Open daily noon-midnight (Huevos Rancheros is available at noon-5pm only)

Fajitas

Fajitas only really boomed along with tacos in the 1970s when fast food chains everywhere started to include them on their menu. The dish is actually a US invention that doesn’t even exist in Mexico. Still, the dish is delicious if you find the right place that really gets the grilling spot-on.

Have it at: Tacos and Salsa, 49 Sukhumvit Soi 18, 02-663-6366. Open daily 3pm-midnight

Enchiladas

The original is a lot simpler than the Tex-Mex version, often just a tortilla dipped in chili or sometimes meat, too. What you’re more likely to find in Texas, though, comes with cheese, lots of chili gravy and meat, to suit local tastes.

Have it at: Coyote, Soi Convent, Silom Rd., 02-631-2325. BTS Saladaeng. Open daily 11-1am


Find more Mexican restaurants in Bangkok.

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As the rainy season finally comes to an end, we round up the best new places to eat, drink and be merry under the stars. 

Want our all-time favorites? See Bangkok's Best Outdoor Bars.

 

Key:  Rooftop  Garden Spots  Riverside  Good Music  Terraces  Community Malls

 Eat Drink Love

The Park 9, Sri Nakarin Soi 57. 02-707-8873. Open daily 7am-11pm. BTS Udom Suk

Eat Drink Love might be located quite far out from town, near Paradise Park, but it is totally worth the drive. The place serves up international comfort food for any time of day, with a focus on all-day brunch and afternoon tea, alongside a nice selection of desserts from Amatissimo Caffe and Yanin. We love the sizable outdoor terrace where the verdant garden of big trees and small ponds provide a charming backdrop for laidback drinks with friends. That and the good choice of wines.

 Amontre Playroom & Brasserie

Lobby/F, Urbana Sathorn, 55 Sathorn Tai Rd., 02-359-9667-8. Open daily 6am-midnight

Amontre has all the makings of an ideal hang-out spot. Owned by the same team behind All Six to Twelve (in Langsuan), itself known for its cool lofty vibe, here the big bonus is the large terrace at the front, sporting a wooden deck and hanging light bulbs. But if you get bored of all the couples acting romantic, you can always have some fun on the mezzanine floor with a sports bar and a foosball table. Big bowls of cocktails start at B490, craft beers from Beervana are B240 and draught beers range from Heineken (B130) to Hoegaarden Rose (B180).

 

 Bellino Wine Room & Boutique

 

M Place Mall, Thonglor Soi 13, 02-712-5446. Open Mon-Sat 6:30pm-midnight

A film director by day, Jay Boccia recently opened the gorgeous Bellino Wine Room & Boutique, which sports a décor inspired by the Italian island of Capri. He directly imports around 50 labels of wines from many small vineyards at reasonable prices (some even cheaper than Villa Market); for example, you can get a bottle of Bottega DOCG Prosecco at B600 or opt for the brief but good selections of wine by glass starting from B100. The very chill yet tiny terrace also serves up some Italian dishes such as the delicious caprese salad (fresh mozzarella with olives and tomato, B350).

 

 Brotzeit 

Thonglor Soi 10, 081-920-5929. Open daily 12pm-midnight

Aside from all the beer bars opening in community malls, Thonglor has also welcomed this sport-friendly venue conveniently sat on the corner of Thonglor Soi 10. Originally from Singapore, Brotzeit German Bier Bar and Restaurant actually puts a big focus on German cuisine. Grab a seat out on the big terrace with the large outdoor screens to catch the football match and try the tafelspitz (boiled beef with apple horseradish sauce, B440) or leg ham with emmentaler cheese (B280). Wash it all down with five different kinds of Paulaner draught beer (B250 for 0.5 liter).

 

 Cloud 47

47/F, United Center, Silom Rd. 091-889-9600. BTS Sala Daeng. Open Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight.  

Formerly home to the Heineken GreenSpace, the rooftop of the United Centre Silom already used to welcome revelers celebrating the coming of winter a few years ago. Now, finally, the space has been transformed into a permanent rooftop bar, Cloud 47, which offers more variety than most rooftop venues across Bangkok, yet has a distinctly Thai flavor. With its menu of drinking food and large beer garden littered with white square tables and stool sofas catering for up to 500 people, the place just asks for you to order drinks to share, from a tower of draught beer (starts from B600) to a tower of Absolut smoothie (B1,280, mixers B60). There’s also a more upscale wine zone which is serviced by a “flying angel hostess” suspended in a harness.

 

  Heineken Beer Parks 

GreenSpace might not be as huge as it was a couple of years ago but Heineken hasn’t quite given up on winter beer season yet. This year, you have two pop-up parks to look forward to: one on Sukhumvit Soi 16 next to Column Tower and one on the front yard of The Esplanade Ratchada. The creative team behind both spots is the late Bed Supperclub’s Bed Buzz team. While details have yet to be finalized, don’t expect the Soi 11 UFO to make a guest appearance, but we are hoping some electronic music will make it onto the playlists. What is being revived is Bed Supperclub’s white sheet beds, at least at the Soi 16 venue. Both venues should be open from November to the end of the year.

 

 Stereo Bar 

2/F, Horizon Building, Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Soi Ekkamai), BTS Ekkamai. 02-381-6299. Open daily, 10-1am.

With its Tron-meets-raver décor, this bar on the second floor of the Horizon building is an intriguing new addition to Ekkamai’s nightlife scene. Apart from the normal indoor zone which plays host to live music every weekend, the park in front of the building will welcome Hoegaarden and Stella Artois events this winter. We suggest grabbing a beer at the old favorite Baan Rai Coffee on the corner of Soi Ekkamai, before checking what all the fuss is about here.

 

 Niche Beer Ville

482 Praditmanoontham Rd., 02-515-1232-3. Open daily 4pm-midnight 

This place may be quite far from the city center, but it’s a pretty easy drive if you take the Ramindra expressway, and it’s totally worth the mileage. Founded by one of the Beer Lovers in Thailand community’s members, Prasert “Geng” Sritaborvornpaiboon, the open-air Niche Beer Ville is decked out under a European village theme and offers a wonderful variety of imported beers, including all the now-expected craft ones, as well as unusual pop-up promotions (like free beers for Arsenal fans when the team wins).

 

 Happy Fish 

Asiatique Riverfront, 083-015-9988. Open daily 5pm-1am

It’s sometimes tough to get a table outside at Happy Fish, but the river views and converted warehouse backdrop make it worth elbowing past the tourists to snag a seat here. The menu is your usual hodgepodge of Thai and Thai-ified Italian, but you do have a live band and plenty of photo ops to look forward to.

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