Apinya Peungjai, 34, has been selling accessories every Tue-Fri on Silom Rd. for 5 years. This month, though, things are especially cramped and hectic as campaign posters, busy office workers and sellers vie for space on the busy sidewalk.

Do the posters affect you in any way?
Yes, a lot. Since the posters have been put up here, I make a lot less money. People stop just to look at them for a laugh instead of looking at my accessories.

How much do you have to pay for this stall?
To the city police officer, B1,500 a month, and I can only sell from Tuesday to Friday. They don’t let us sell on Mondays, and I have to stay with my kids on weekends. I sell from 6:30 to 9:30am in the morning, and from 5 to 9pm in the evening.

Is this enough for a living? Do you do anything else?
No, this is the only business we have; both my husband and I. We make around B70,000 to B80,000 a month and we spend B50,000 on the products. We have to manage the money very carefully: with four people in the family, B20,000 is very little. I have to pay for my two children’s school fees, then B8,000 for nursery after school because they are very small and we are both working till 9pm, gasoline to drive here, food, home, and other essentials for living.

Do you want to do anything else?
Not right now. I feel that this is making a lot more money for me. That’s why I decided to put all my time into this business.

Where do you live?
Prachauthit, around Rama 2; it’s very far away from here. I have to drive here every day to sell my stuff because I believe I can make the most money here. But I’ve never thought about moving here at all. The city is always too busy.

Do you have any trouble selling here?
Well [in a lower voice], you see the kao moo daeng shop there? Sometimes when there are a lot of customers at my stall, they will pretend to be watering the plants from above, to splash water on my customers. They have a young daughter and, in the past, they sent her over to ask for the prices of all my items. Then, they opened their own shop selling the same stuff that I do. My friend used to sell orange juice beside their shop and, guess what, they started selling orange juice too.

Anything else?
Sometimes people steal. It is hard to oversee the whole stall when there are a lot of customers. Some people will just pick an accessory up, put it in their purse and walk away. I don’t usually realize something is missing until it’s too late. One customer who had already bought three bags from me took a B2,000 bag and said she would come back to pay for it. But it’s been days and she’s not back yet.

What would you like to tell Bangkokians?
We have to eat on Mondays too, why can’t we do our business on Mondays? Interview by Natthanun Prasongchaikul

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Wimbledon (Jun 20-Jul 3) means it’s time to dust off those rackets and hit some balls. By Ubonwan Kerdtongtawee

The 50 tennis & fitness club

There are six standard PlaxiPave courts available for B160/hour from 6am-6pm and B260 from 6-10pm. Private and group tennis classes available. Reservation is recommended. Parking spaces are available and equipment can be rented.
Sukhumvit Soi 50, 02-742-8889, 086-623-8888. Open daily 8am-10pm. www.the50tennisclubs.com

Sivalai Club House

For B120/hour (6am-6pm) and B170/hour (6pm-10pm) you get a ball boy, a locker, and a parking space. Individual courses with a professional cost B350/hour. There are only three courts so reservations are a must.
168 Issaraphab Soi 33 or Jarunsanitvong 12, Tha Phra, 02-412-4000 ext 205. Open daily 6am-10pm. http://sivalaiclubhouse.blogspot.com

Suan Rodfai Tennis Court

This tennis court is surrounded by other fun activities like bike riding or kayaking. If you come between 6am-noon, walk-ins are welcome but after noon, a reservation is needed. Booking can be made from 10am on the same day. Only B35/hour. Bring your own rackets and balls.
Vachirabenjatud Park (Suan Rodfai), Chatuchak, 02-272-4844-5. Open daily 6am-9pm.

Sun Tennis Court

Two hard courts, equipment rental and Wi-Fi available. They use white lighting at night for better vision and also offer lessons. Court rental B120/hour from 6am-6pm and B200/hour from 6pm-midnight.
Soi Samarnchunt, Sukhumvit Soi 40, 081-875-9285. Open daily 6am-midnight.

Gusto Sport Club

A beautiful outdoor 100% acrylic system court with free Wi-Fi, shower room, and equipment rental. B180/hour before 5pm. After 5pm it’s B200/hour.
Soi Anamai Ngarm Charoen 35-37, Rama 2 Rd., 02-405-7088. Open Mon-Fri 9am-9pm, Sat-Sun 7am-9pm. www.gustosport.com

Thonburi Sport Club

From 7am-10am B110/hour, 10am-3pm B60/hour, 3pm-6pm B110/hr, and 6pm-11pm B160/hour. There are four outdoor courts. Parking space, shower room, and equipment rental are available.
139 Prachauthid Soi 33, 02-428-5021 ext 122. Open daily 7am-11pm. http://teerachai.co.th

Soi Klang Racquet Club

There are seven indoor courts, and non-members can play all day long for B500 (B600 on weekends and holidays). The prices include other facilities like fitness, swimming pool or boxing. Booking is same-day (members only). Membership: B20,000/year.
6-8 Amara 3, Sukhumvit Soi 49/9, 02-714-7200. Open daily 6am-11pm. http://rqclub.com

The Olympic Club

The Olympic Club has two grass courts as part of its enormous and comprehensive fitness center. Tennis court fee is B118/hour before 6pm, after that it’s B178/hour. Rackets and ball rental available. B107/hr for one racket and B54/basket for balls.
Pathumwan Princess Hotel, 8/F, MBK Center Bldg., 444 Phyathai Rd., 02-216-3700 ext 20805. Open Mon-Fri 6am-11pm, Sat-Sun 7am-10pm. www.theolympic-club.com.

Phut Anan Stadium

These four outdoor tennis courts are filled with big shot soldiers. Usually the seniors will swing around late afternoon so call or visit the court to make a reservation first. B80/hour from 6am-6pm and B100/hour afterwards.
Soi La Salle 17, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-475-2043, 02-393-7228. Open daily 6am-9pm.

Sirisuk Tennis Courts

There are five outdoor courts at B120/hour from 6am-6pm and B200/hour from 6pm-10pm. One-day advance booking is preferred. Racket rental is B50, and balls are free.
2080/29 Narathiwas Soi 20, Yannawa, 02-286-4196. Open daily 6am-10pm.

Chulalongkorn University Sport Center

Two options. There are 10 hard courts located behind MBK and six tennis courts located behind the National Stadium. For Chula and Chula Demonstration school students, the entrance is free but you’ll have to pay B50 for electricity. For others, entrance fee is B50 and B100 for electricity. Booking is recommended.
Chulalongkorn University, Phyathai Rd., 02-218-2839. Open daily, 7am-9pm. www.cusc.chula.ac.th

Trinity Fitness Center

Exclusively for members and residents, Trinity fitness Center offers you tennis courts along with a pool, gymnasium, a jogging track and aerobic classes. One-year membership is B15,900 and it’s B5,900 for six-month membership. You still have to pay B100/hour for the tennis court and they charge for electricity B80/hour after 6pm onward. Private classes available. Racket rental B50. Free balls.
Silom Soi 7, Silom Rd., 02-231-5333. Open Mon-Fri 7am-9pm, Sat-Sun 7am-8pm.

APF Academies

2 standard indoor plexipave courts at B700/hour (B500B for members), with full locker room facility. Rental hours from 8am-9pm. They also offer group and private lessons both junior and adult. 
12/75 Soi Attakavee 1, Kwang Klongton, 02-665-6278, 081.901.6843. Open Wed-Mon 8am-10pm. apfacademies.net/en

More Courts

K Star
7/139 Soi Nual Chan 56, Ramintra, 086-527-0892.
KS Sport Club
271 Soi Panichanunt, Pridi bhanomyong 46, 02-391-8993, 02-391-2508.
Panya Ramintra Sport Club
99/1 Ramindra Rd., 02-943-0000.Chumnarnpenchart Sport Center 65 Rama 9, 02-247-7090.
Rajdamnern Sport Complex
19/2 Taweewattana-Karnchanapisak Rd., 02-448-1781-2.
Sport Complex Bangkok Youth Center
Mitrmaitree Rd., Din Daeng, 02-245-4743-7.
Ari Tennis Court
98 Sukhumvit 26 (Soi Ari), 02-259-8425, 084-943-9453
Santisuk Court
26 Sukhumvit 38, 02-391-1830

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Are Bangkokians excited about the upcoming election? Three weeks before the July 3 election, BK hits the sidewalks to find out what the people expect from their candidates. By Clae Sea, Aimmarin Siritantitam, Sasinipa Wasantapruek and Ubonwan Kerdtongtawee, illustration by Tanwa Tiammek

Kritanai Satjayakorn, 24, investor

Do you know any of the local candidates?
No, I don’t. I’m not really interested.
Who will you vote for in the election? Why?
Chuwit. He’s cool. I don’t know who to choose. None of the candidates are that good, so I might as well go for Chuwit.
Why aren’t you really interested in politics?
It’s full of lies and all about fooling people. No matter who you choose, they’re all bad.
Can anything change your mind about Chuwit?
If the Red Shirts burn down the city again, I might go for Abhisit.
What do you want the next government to do?
Solve the conflicts between the people in this country. And fix the transport links, like adding more routes to the BTS and MRT.
How do you feel about the upcoming election? I’m just like, we’re voting—again? I’m sick of this. Can we get this voting over with?
Do you think it matters who wins? Will it make a difference, will it change the country?
Well, as long as it’s not Pheu Thai.
Do you think your vote matters?
It’s one vote. It won’t make any difference.
Do you talk about politics at home or at your office?
Not really. The people around me aren’t really interested. Maybe they’re bored of it. Even my friends aren’t interested in politics.
Which is your favorite poster?
The one with Chuwit pointing in your face. It’s cool. And it’s not like your average election poster.

Pu, 45, housewife

When you vote, do you consider the party or the platform?
The platform. Hopefully, candidates will include something about “no corruption.” Some stress healthcare, some say they want to improve taxes. But when it comes from the candidates, of course, it all sounds nice.
What has grabbed your attention so far?
I read about Pheu Thai Party’s credit cards for farmers policy in the newspaper. I don’t know if it’s going to work or not, but it’s a good policy and I’m looking forward to seeing how it goes.
What problem do you want the next government to solve?
Inflation. Everything is unreasonably expensive now. Food prices have almost doubled. The fruit from fruit stalls are usually B10 but now they’re B15. These are basic products. The lives of Bangkokians are getting harder and harder especially for people like me who pay taxes.
How do you feel about the upcoming election?
I feel good. This is how [democracy] works, not because a group protests and demands an election.
Do you think it’s important to Thailand who wins?
It is important. Everyone can be corrupt. They’re might be good and bad in the government, but the right leader can direct the country on the right path. If there is fraud, the leader can quickly fight back.
Do you think your vote makes a difference?
Yes. Every vote counts.
Do you talk politics at home?
No, because everyone thinks differently and we don’t have the same opinions. Politics and religion are not subjects to be discussed.
Do you think if Pheu Thai wins the election, the military will interfere?
I don’t think so. I think the military is rational. They only try to protect the citizens.
Any posters grab your attention?
Usually I hate posters; they distract me when I drive. Chuwit’s are a headache. I don’t like them at all. And the ones with the animals in suits are too aggressive. But if I had to pick one it’s the one with Khun Surachai on it saying “Love Peace.” It’s a new party.

Praphai Boonsaeng, 40, coffee vendor

Do you know any of the local candidates?
No. I haven’t looked into any of them yet.
What do you want the next government to do?
First of all, do something about inflation. Prices are too high and my income doesn’t balance out with my costs.
Do you vote in Bangkok?
No, I live in Samut Prakan and vote in Korat.
How do you feel about the upcoming election?
Mostly I just want to see some changes. Will things get better after the election? Now people can just hope.
Do you think your vote makes a difference?
Even if it’s one vote, it still matters. Sometimes one vote is what’s needed to win.
Do you talk about politics at home?
Not really. We just don’t have the time. We don’t really talk about this stuff.
Has something related to the campaign ever made you angry?
No. It’s their right to campaign and try to stand out so they can attract people. I have no reason to be angry. If they don’t campaign then how are we supposed to know about their policies?
Do you think candidates will keep their promises?
Not a hundred percent, no. But there must be some things they can do. I just don’t know, I guess. I don’t really follow news about politics. But you still have to go out and buy raw materials and stuff, and when there’s a new government, prices increase. Everything’s expensive. Since the start of the year, prices have increased.

Saifon Saisurapon, 51, motorcycle taxi and farm owner

Do you know any of the local candidates?
I vote in my home town, which is Petchaboon. The local Pheu Thai candidate there is Surasuk. It’s the party that I like the most. He always wins the election. I’m voting for him for sure. Nothing can change my mind. This party has never disappointed me. All the campaigns [Pheu Thai] launched are all clear and really happen. For example, the 30 baht health care program.
What are you looking for in a candidate?
I take a look at the campaign and what the candidate is promoting. Pheu Thai tells us straight up what they can really take action on. Other parties seem like they don’t really care if their promises come true or not. For example, there was a campaign where you could borrow money from the Government Savings Bank. I went there for many days and didn’t end up getting a loan. Now the government is dissolved and I still haven’t gotten money from the bank. But it was Thai Rak Thai that changed motorcycle taxis from normal white license plates to the yellow taxi license plate for us to be able to work as a legal taxi service.
What do you want the next government to do?
I just want the new government to do the things they promised when they were canvassing. The first thing I would like them to do is to stimulate the Thai economy. Back when Thaksin was in government, I had more customers than I do today.
How do you feel about the election?
I’m okay with it. Having a legal election is good enough for me. But actually, they should have dissolved the parliament a long time ago. Unless they rig the election, Pheu Thai will win.
Do you feel your vote matters?
Yes. I think that my vote is important because one vote does make a difference. And I’m the kind of person who cares and likes to know about politics.
Which is your favorite poster and why?
“Vote No.” I like the monkey and the banana. It’s hilarious. But of course I like Pheu Thai ones even better, particularly those with Yingluck Shinawatra. I’m thinking of taking 50-100 Pheu Thai posters back home after election day to rebuild the roof of my house.

Kanphai Bunyuen, 20, Student

Who is your favourite candidate right now?
If I have to choose, I’d choose Yingluck. When Thaksin was in power, the economy was starting to improve and when the economy improves, everything improves.
Is there anything that can change your mind?
No, I’ve already decided on Yingluck. The Democrat party, they’ve been in power for two years and nothing’s changed. I think it’s time to let different people have a try.
Which problems do you want them to address?
I want to see the economy turn around. And I want them to fix the traffic in Bangkok. It’s a huge problem. I want them to finish the MRT and BTS projects.
Do you talk about politics at home or at work?
Yeah, at home I talk about it with my family. My mom wants to vote Democrat, but I like the Red Shirts. But it’s not a problem. At school, we censor ourselves. We don’t want to disagree on too many things because then we’ll just argue.
Which posters do you like best?
Chuwit’s posters! They’re very provocative and in-your-face. They were the first ones I noticed. When you look at them, they hit you deeply.

Sirinporn Trimetsuntorn, 28, Project and Reporting Advisor

Do you like your local candidates?
Nope. None of them so far. They’re boring. They’re the same old people. Like Chuwit—he’s gonna be there forever.
Are you going to go vote?
Yes, that’s for sure. But I don’t like any candidate in particular. I just like the parties. I’m going to vote by party.
Which party?
Democrats. I think that the new generation is more educated. They don’t stick to the same old narrative. Some of them have really proved that there are quality people. Like Minister of Finance Mr. Korn Chatikavanij. I think he has great ideas.
How about Pheu Thai?
I hate Thaksin. I hate Pheu Thai. I hate the Red Shirts. I hate anyone that uses violence.
Do you think the Democrats will intervene if Pheu Thai wins?
No they’re not going to. Their name is “Democrat.” It’s democracy, right?
Some people talk about how it’s been two years and nothing’s changed.
Well some things have changed. It just takes time to build up from ground zero. People just need to be more cooperative and more positive, not just keep complaining and thinking that other people are going to solve their problems for them. They have to do it themselves.
What’s your favorite poster?
Some of them are pretty stupid and I love it. Like the monkey with the banana. I think they’re tearing them down now, so that’s a shame. The idea is really stupid, but still, I love the monkey. It’s funny. It has bananas on it.
What do you think about Chuwit?
He’s just a joke. But, it’s good to have him. He’s so determined, and I love determined people, but what’s he going to do? He’s not clear about his goals.
He says he wants to stop corruption.
Every government has corruption! I mean, I care about corruption, but as long as they don’t do it so obviously that they have to investigate, I’m alright with it. Because even the Democrats, I love them, but I know that some of them are going to be corrupt. Not the government itself, but some people in the government.
What do you want most out of the new government?
I want honesty. I don’t care if it takes time. Seriously, they have to bring it to Thai people for real.

Picheat Anukullsawat, 34, insurance company employee

Have you decided how you’re voting yet?
Yes. I’m voting Democrat.
Can anything change your mind about your decision?
I’ll have to look at the campaign promises and see if they’re realistic. I look at both the campaign and the person. From what I’ve seen, the most realistic ones are from the Democrat party.
For example?
Like free education and stuff about water and electricity costs and gas prices. They don’t seem too hard to achieve. If they can do what they’ve promised in their campaign, it would be good. If not, then things they’re already working on can be improved.
How do you feel about the election?
I feel that Thailand is still backwards. Most people lack education and are narrow-minded. Truthfully, they should let the current government finish serving its four-year term.

Prawena Rodratana, 45, private school teacher

Have you made up your mind for the upcoming election?
I’m voting Democrat and for Suchart Bandasak. I see his work and things have improved, like paving roads.
What could make you change you mind about choosing this person?
Nothing, because I haven’t seen the work of other candidates yet. But for this person, he’s been around for a long time. He’s been with many parties but currently he’s with the Democrat party.
When you choose a candidate, what do you look for?
Their work and their campaign promises, and the improvements made to the neighborhood I live in. I don’t look at the party, I look more at the candidate.

How is bangkok going to vote?

This Durakit Pundit University and the Nation Group poll predicts Puea Thai will snap up 19 constituencies, versus 5 for the Democrats. But accounting for margins of error, actual results could be very different.

VOTED: How does the election work?

• There are two lists, 375 single constituency seats and 125 party list seats.
• The constituency list is a winner-takes-all system. One victorious candidate will emerge in each one of the 375 single constituencies.
• The 125 party list seats, on the other hand, are divided according to the percentage of votes received by each party. For example, if a party got 20% of the party list votes, it gets 25 seats.

B100,000
Reward offered by police for catching professional hit men in a bid to increase security for candidates.

75
Number of hit men on the police’s list.

100,000
Police officers assigned to protect candidates

256
Candidates from Pheu Thai and Democrat parties who have sought protection during the campaigning season so far

90,000
Polling stations nationwide

B1.5 million
Campaign budget per MP

82
Percentage of people who intend to vote, according to DPU poll, surveying 6,000 people
70, 60, 85
Percentage of voter turnout in 2001, 2005, and 2007 respectively

53.5million
Number of ballots printed for the party-list vote.

47.3million
Eligible voters in Thailand

3.3million
Extra ballots allowed to be printed according to law

6.2million
Extra ballots being printed.

1,246
total number of damaged election signs.

720
total number that belong to the Democrats

Colorful Candidates

A completely biaised roundup of those MP hopefuls with the most entertainment value

Chitpas Bhirombhakdi (Democrat Party MP, Constituency 5: Dusit, Ratchatewi)
Watch out Yingluck, this fresh face maintains that she wants to be Thailand’s first female PM. She’s the daughter of a renaissance man, Chuntinant, and a style guru, ML Piyapas. More importantly, Chitpas is the heiress of the Singha Corporation. This high-society debutante seems to have her path paved in gold—and maybe some leftover Leo Beer calendars showing chicks wearing only paint that she passed around to her friends in parliament last year. Will people just get over it already?

Yaowapa Boorapholchai (Chart Pattana Puea Pandit Party, Constituency 11)
She’s a Chart Pattana Puea Pandin Party candidate that really kicks ass. She roundhoused her way into Thailand’s limelight, as she nabbed Bronze in Taekwando for Thailand in the 2004 Olympic games in Greece—the only medalled olympian coming out of Thailand that wasn’t a boxer or a weightlifter. She plans to use her champion status to help her party build sports complexes in every tambon across the country. She’s been the underdog and has beaten powerhouses before. Let’s see if she can do it again.

Sunisa Lertpakawat (PHeu Thai party MP, Constituency 30, Bang Kae)
In 2006, Lt. Sunisa Lertpakawat dropped B100,000 to travel to London and interview Thaksin Shinawatra, which subsequently turned into the book Thaksin, Where Are You. A reporter for the Thai Army’s Channel 5, she was sacked by the top brass. (They’re not huge fans of Thaksin.) As she has been handed a Pheu Thai dominated consistuency, it seems Loong Maew is finally paying her back for sticking her neck out.

Tankhun Jittit-sara (Democrat party MP, Constituency 12, Don Muang)
You might remember him by his model/actor handle, Ekachai Burinapanit, and in particular his role as Wit in Iron Ladies (2000), a based-on-a-true-story movie about a group of gay and transvestite volleyball players who became national champions in Thailand. He had to turn down the sequel to study for his masters, he said at the time. Or was he already considering a career in politics—a path not-so-compatible with transgender film franchises? He’s in a hardcore Puea Thai constituency and has complained about his posters getting vandalized but you gotta admire the determination.

Chuwit Kamolvisit (RAK PRATHET THAI)
Everybody’s favorite massage parlor millionaire turned politician is looking for a happy ending, because according to him, he’s running one last time and he’s not in politics to be the outsider looking in. His in-your-face campaign posters accurately reflect his personality: angry and unrestrained. His latest poster is in big bold English letters, stating “NO CORRUPTION,” which is the core message of his campaign. According to him, parliament needs a shake up because, “politicians are like diapers, the more you change them, the better.” Clae Sea

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Compared to running or cross-training shoes, tennis shoes are now designed for increased lateral stability, as tennis involves a lot of running from side to side—and a lot of stopping and starting. That means a couple things: tennis shoes are getting pretty clunky, and they have a fairly thick outsole just about where the base of your pinky toe is, to stop your foot from flipping towards the outside and to get more bite when stopping. Here are the latest models in shops now.

1. Adidas Barricade 6.0 Murray Ltd., B4,990
2. Adidas Adizero Feather, B5,590
3. Nike Air Max Court Ballistec 3.3, B4,700
4. Nike Lunar Vapor 8, B4,900

Essentials

Adidas Sport Performance Concept Store. 1/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd. BTS Siam
Nike Store. 2/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1092. BTS Siam

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From the streets to the hotels, our favorite 49 sweet dishes (in no particular order) and where to get them.

01. Vanilla ice cream with balsamic vinegar

Gaggan, 68/1 Soi Langsuan, Phloenchit Rd., 02-652-1700. Open daily 6pm-midnight
Just because this gorgeous white house on Langsuan serves modern gastro-tinged Indian platters doesn’t mean Chef Gaggan doesn’t know the joys of simplicity. Try his homemade vanilla ice cream with 40-year-old balsamic vinegar from Modena (which, incidentally, also makes this sublime dish a whopping B400). If you don’t see it on the menu, Chef Gaggan will be happy to whip it up.

02. Cherry Tart

Le Blanc, 15 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-259-4353. Open Mon-Fri 8am-6:30pm, Sat 8am-5pm
This humble little bakery in residential Soi 39 packs some serious pastry surprises created by a serious, young Japanese couple. Among their baguettes and croissants is a selection of tiny round fruit tarts. The pastry is a crispy, flakey triumph of good ingredients and minimal kneading and the cherry topping (our favorite) with a touch of vanilla custard is bliss (B45 per piece, B199 for 5).

03. Vanilla Cream Puff

Beard Papa, G/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., BTS Siam, 02-610-7534. Open daily 11am-10pm
We know it’s a chain, but this is a democratic round-up, and we have to admit we have a weakness for the soft cream puff pastry and the cold, vanilla-heavy custard inside. It’s cheap and plentiful around the city. Forget the special fillings and stick to classic vanilla, with the pretty little black specks of beans in it.

04. Scones with Jam and Clotted Cream

Scones, 2/F, Zone A, CentralWorld, Ratchdamri Rd., 081-869-9045. Open daily 10am-9pm
From the folks who brought us Anotai, this charming shop, now reopened after the fire last year, doles out this uniquely English tea treat. They come in seven incarnations (including prune, lavender, butterfly pea, B45 each) with proper accompaniments like clotted or whipped cream, organic teas from all over the world (B120 per pot) and homemade jams. A set with two scones, jam and proper clotted cream comes for B125 (drink not included).

05. Frozen Yogurt

Red Mango, 4/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1713. BTS Siam. www.redmangothailand.com. Open daily 9am-10pm
Red Mango was the first to bring frozen yogurt to Bangkok. Despite the name, you can top your cup of swirly iced yogurt with anything from cherries and candied fruits to chocolate chips and cornflakes. The highlight, though, is the frozen yogurt itself, which tastes like a delicious lassi that’s been left in the freezer. If the “S” sized bowl (B89) isn’t enough to quell your craving then you can also order a takeaway box.

06. Vanilla Waffles

Ohana Cafe, 50/4 Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-661-1930. www.ohanafreshcafe.com. Open daily 8am-7pm
This idyllic, sun-drenched gem is a welcome haven on a busy soi. Its enormous glass panes, greenery, chic couches and travel/photography library make you want to linger for hours. Despite their excellent pastas and sandwiches, the real highlight, we think, is their eye-popping vanilla waffle with generous amounts of strawberries and ice cream (B160). Other treats include hot chocolate (B90), milkshakes (B140) and free Wi-Fi. And to make life that much easier, they now have parking spots a short walk away.

07. Carrot Cake

Sunrise Tacos. 234/5-6 Sukhumvit Soi 12, 02-229-4851. Open 24 hrs. Visit www.sunrisetacos.com for their other branches
Bangkok has no shortage of Oreo cakes and cheesecakes­—funny how a few US military bases in the sixties colonized our dessert culture forever. Unfortunately, the rarer carrot cake is often dry, bland and overly sweet. But not here! The one at Sunrise Tacos (B90) has bits of crunchy nuts to bring some oomph to its fluffy, flavorful dough—the ultimate sugar blast to end a meal of meat, cheese and corn shells.

08. Cup C

Summer, 199 Sukhumvit Soi 49 (Promsri), 02-392-2747. www.springnsummer.com. Open daily noon-midnight
The ever-so-stylish yet always welcoming restaurant off Soi 49 is the place for dessert lovers. Seat yourself on the open-air front lawn and gorge on a bowl of Cup C—their chocolate brownie best seller. Besides the extensive drinks menu that stretches from mojitos to hot malt, you can also order one of their house special sweet treats like the aptly named BTS (Better Than Sex) chocolate mousse for B140.

09. Red Velvet Cupcake

Dugong, The Avenue Chaengwattana, Chaengwattana Rd., 02-982-5229. www.dugongcupcakes.com. Open daily 10am-9pm
A sit-down café from the folks behind the Pandora cupcake booth at Emporium, Dugong is miniature and adorable, with just three tables, a white counter and a glass case displaying some 30 varieties of their mouth-watering, low-fat fare. Try the Red Velvet (B45) with its cream cheese frosting, or the Dutch Chocolate with gooey chocolate fudge topping. If you live across town, stock up on your supply by getting delivery, which is free for orders over B2,500.

10. Santol in Perfumed Syrup with Yellow Bean and Cashew Nut Pudding and Deep Fried Shallots

Nahm. Metropolitan. 27 Sathorn Rd., 02-625 3333. Open daily 10am-9pm
David Thompson’s partner and dessert chef, Tanongsak Yordwai, is a genius. We could have picked anyone of his sublime desserts, so we just picked the last one we ate. As always, it strikes a perfect balance. In this case, a dense, rich pudding is offset by the cold, lightly perfumed syrup and its crushed ice (280). The final touches: delicate fried shallots on the pudding, slices of santol in the syrup. Perfection.

11. French Toast

Gastro 1/6, RMA Institute, Soi Namthip 2, Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-663-0809. Open Tue-Sun 8:30am-3pm
We’re really fond of this little cafe in the front yard of the RMA Institute, with its hanging foliage and mismatched furniture. Pair that with strong coffee and their decadent plate of french toast topped with seasonal fruits and berries and syrup (B195), and you’ve got yourself a well-worth-it food coma. They also have pastries by Le Blanc and fantastic savory breakfasts involving organic eggs and homemade sausages.

12. Kanten-Jelly with Red Bean, Chestnut, Dumplings and Vanilla Ice Cream

Yumemiya, 6/F, Gochiso Street, Isetan, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-255-9894. Open daily 11am-10pm
Desserts take up nearly half the menu here, but we encourage you to experience the jelly with red bean, chestnuts, dumplings, and vanilla ice cream. It’s huge, it comes with a cup of authentic, thick green tea, and it’s such a weird mix of textures (B140).

13. Seng Sim Ee

Chula, Soi 5, Suan Luang Market, 02-214-0612. Open daily noon-midnight
Around for several generations, Sing Sem Ee remains the go-to nam khaeng sai (Chinese shaved ice and syrup dessert) place for Chula kids and neighborhood enthusiasts. While the recent changes to the area have meant a slight dip in customers, the place is still full to the brim most nights, necessitating table-sharing. If you’re anything like us, cover your head, duck and run past the bees swarming the dazzling display of over twenty sweet toppings out front to reach the safety of the back room. Here you can enjoy the range of rice flour balls, pickled plums, glass noodles, balls of ice and more. Prices for a bowl range from B20-40.

14. Tartelette au Citron (Lemon Tartlet)

Le Notre, G/F, Paragon. Rama 1 Rd. BTS Siam, 02-129-4365. Open daily 10am-9:30pm
While everyone seems to be making big fluffy cakes, it takes a French patisserie to whip up a pastry with some backbone, in this case, a perfectly executed “pate sablee” (shortcrust pastry). The tangy lemon curd in the middle is perfect, too (B85). Of course, if you do like your desserts soft and tender, Le Notre’s is also our favorite eclair (chocolat or coffee, B75).

15. Mango and sticky rice

Mae Waree, Soi Thong Lor. 02-392-4804. Open 10am-9:30pm
A few steps into Soi Thong Lor and you’ll come across a fruit shop with a massive mango display out on the sidewalk, along with some gorgeous, purple mangosteens (as the season just started). But the mangoes aren’t just to take home. They can also fix you up a plate or box of delectable mango and sticky rice (B80).

16. Raspberry Tiramisu

Horse Says Moooo, 8/1 Nuam Complex, Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-662-0402. Open Mon-Fri 11am-midnight, Sat-Sun 10:30-midnight
One thing you would never complain about here is the size of the portions. The desserts are simply enormous—seriously we’d struggle to fit their raspberry tiramasu into our flat. Fortunately, its not as heavy as it looks, with a light creamy texture that’s given a nice twist thanks to the tart, fruitiness of the raspberries (B250).

17. Shibuya Honey Toast

After You, J Avenue, Thonglor Soi 13, 02-712-9266. Mon-Sun 9pm-midnight
It’s located in the hip and happening J Avenue on Thonglor, so you can expect the desserts to be hi-so crowd pleasers. The shop is run by a food writer, whose passion for Japanese-style treats makes After You the spot to sample the gastronomic goodies you see on Japanese TV shows. Try their super buttery honey toast topped with vanilla ice cream. It’s a hearty must if you’re not watching your weight (B165).

18. Banana Bailey’s Crepe

Crepes and Co., 18 Sukhumvit Soi 12, 02-653-3990. Open Mon-Sat 9am-midnight, Sun 8am-midnight
Bangkok’s favorite crepes place has been doing this dessert crepe for years now, but we’ve yet to get tired of it. A massive crepe is stuffed with vanilla ice cream, bananas and a slathering of Bailey’s Irish Cream, all dusted with icing sugar (B270). You can share it, but from a messiness standpoint, it’s more fun to have one all by yourself.

19. Custard Pudding

My Porch. 20/13 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-662-6313. Open daily 11am-11pm
Tucked away in a little alley on Sukhumvit Soi 39, My Porch is a cozy little place doing Japanese-Italian fusion. Our favorite dish here is not one of the pastas, though, but the revelatory custard, firm but soft, eggy but sweet, served with a berry jam and amazing, woody caramel that you pour on yourself (B75).

20. Tarte Tatin

Cafe Tartine. Next to Athenee Residence, 65/2 Witthayu (Wireless) Rd., 02-168-5464. Open Mon-Fri 7:30am-8pm, Sat-Sun 9am-8pm
Tarte tatin is an amazing dish which, interestingly, is rarely found in its home country’s patisseries (bakeries) but is a huge restaurant favorite. It’s made by making some caramel at the bottom of a pan, pre-baking sliced apples in the caramel, than baking a crust on top. You then flip the tart (a delicate operation) and take the mold off, so that the apples end up on top of a perfectly crispy crust. At Cafe Tartine, the result is a pleasant combination of acidic apples and slightly bitter caramel. It is served with sweet caramel sauce and whipped cream on the side (B90).

21.  Egg Tarts

Kanom Fashion Bakery, 122 Sukhumvit Soi 49 (Soi Klang), 02-391-2428. Open Mon-Sat 9:30am-8pm, Sun 9:30am-6pm
Earlier this year, the egg tarts from Kanom (B35 for a small, B40 for a large) won our blind taste test. We love how the top is browned nicely and that the flakey crust is crunchy and you can really taste the egg in its thick filling. And, the branch on Sukhumvit Soi 49 is awash in sunlight and fashion magazines, making it a great place to spend the afternoon.

22. Gulab Jamun

Royal India, 392/1 Thanon Chakphet, Wang Burapha Phirom, 02-221-6565. Open daily 10am-10pm
These little balls of browned milk solids, dunked in hot, rose-spiked sugar syrup are a dime a dozen at the city’s ten zillion Indian restaurants. But a taste of the offerings at Royal India in Pahurat, and you’ll see why this dessert is such a requisite addition to any Indian menu. Piping hot and springy, one bite of these will turn you into a gulab jamun snob for life (B12 per piece, B220 per kilo).

23. The Trio of Desserts

The Garret, Rooftop, MINI Showroom, 6th floor, Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Ekkamai), 02-711-6999. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-midnight
You know one thing we always hate about picking a dessert is just that—picking just one. That’s why we love the trio option at this achingly hip gastro bar with it’s stylish prohibition inspired interior and great views over the Ekkamai skyline. The desserts follow the same theme as the pub grub in that they mostly focus on comforting classics, like apple tart and coffee pudding. Just don’t skip the wonderfully decadent molten chocolate dessert served with one scoop of ice cream: suitably crisp on the outside and wonderfully gooey on the inside.

24. Homemade Ice Cream

Nutthaporn Ice Cream, 94 Phraeng Phutorn, Tanao Rd., 02-221-3954, 02-622-2455. Open Mon-Sat 9am-4pm
Sure, it’s a bit out of the way, and a bit hard to find if you don’t know your way around Tanao Rd., but this half-cenury-old ice cream parlor is a sure bet for light and refreshing Thai-style frozen treats (B25 takeout, B22 eat instore). Make sure you order a slice of cake, too.

25. Sweet Toast

Mon Nom Sod, 160/2-3 Dinso Rd., opposite Bangkok City Hall, 02-224-1989. Open sun-thurs 2pm-11, fri-sat 2pm-midnight
This venerable café is overflowing with a crowd vying for tender tasty milk, toasts and steamed bread with sangkhaya. It’s difficult to get a seat and when you do, you can’t occupy it for too long before the servers give you an evil look. (B15 for toast with sugar and butter, B20 for everything else).

26. Boozy Ice Cream

Amaltery, G/F, The Urban Kitchen, Erawan Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-250-7777. Open daily 10am-10pm
Over 30 flavors of frozen cocktail delights infused with five percent alcohol. Cheers!

27. Toblerone Cheesecake

Coffee Beans by Dao, 20/12-15, Soi Ruamrudee, Ploenchit Rd., 02-254-7117/-9. Open daily 10am-10pm
Prices are steep (B110 up) but Dao’s legendary white choc’ cheesecake, New York cheesecake and flourless chocolate cake are totally worth your money—and the time you will need to spend on a treadmill burning them off. The Toberlone cheesecake, in particular, combines two guilty pleasures: nougat and cream cheese.

28. Sweet Roti

Roti Pa Auan, Tripetch Rd., Pahurat, opposite Poh Chang College, 02-221-2084. Open daily 11am-6pm
Drop by wearing pants loose at the waist as the paper-thin crisp roti sprinkled with sugar and condensed milk is extremely addictive. It looks and feels light but don’t let it fool you. Also known as Roti Poh Chang.

29. New York Cheesecake

NYCC. Crystal Design Center, Praditmanutham Rd., 02-1022065. Open Mon-Thu 10:30am-9pm, Fri-Sun 10:30am-10pm
Sure, they do a few other things, like Chocolate Truffle Cheesecake (B179) or Black Forest Cake (B169). But what really makes the trip to CDC worth it (and putting up with the shack’s no-frills decor) is its splendid New York-style cheesecake (B179)—hence the occasional queues.

30. Flourless Chocolate Cake

Eat Me. Soi Phipat 2, Convent Rd, 02-238-0931. Open daily 3pm-1am
It’s ironic that since the talented New York pastry chef Tim Butler took over the kitchens of this long standing (and very cool) restaurant-slash-art gallery, he hasn’t changed the desserts. In particular, why mess with the flourless chocolate cake (B270)? It’s decadently divine.

31. 58% Dark Chocolate Drinks

Unit 204-206,  2/F, Exchange Tower, 388 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-663-4554. Open Mon-Fri 7:30am-9:30pm, Sat-Sun 9am-9pm
Chu gets its name from its churros (B90/plate, add chocolate or dulce de leche for another B20). But we’ve really fallen in love with their chocolate drinks. The darkest one, made with 58% cacao French baking chocolate (as opposed to cacao powder) is wonderfully complex, bitter and creamy (hot B100, iced B120, frappe B130).

32. Premium milk ice cream

B Naturale, 3/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-129-4784. Visit www.bnaturale.com for other branches. Open daily 10am-9.30pm
Here, it’s all about ice cream served in freshly-baked waffle cones. Prices are steep, but only because the treats are made from imported Hokkaido milk (that’s supposedly better than regular milk). The menu is brief but delectable: Premium Milk, Organic Maple, Banana, Strawberry Millefeuille, Matcha Millefeuille, Belgium Chocolate and the exceptional Sea Salt Caramel. Additional toppings are available for those who like a bit of drama. (B85 per 90 grams)

33. Customized Ice Cream

Cold Stone Creamery, 6/F, Beacon Zone, CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd. Open daily 10am-10pm
This premium American ice cream parlor is now several branches old in Thailand and lets you customize your ice cream, combining a flavor of your choice along with a choice of toppings. The components get slapped onto a frozen granite slab and manhandled until it’s all mixed in. In Bangkok, it’s been lovingly called i teem pat (ice cream stir-fry).

34. Namora

Beirut, J City Tower, Silom Rd., 02-632-7448. Open daily 11am-11:30pm
For those who don’t dig that dense, chococate-fudgey texture, the semolina cake here is a refreshing alternative and simply lovely. The cake has a soft, but grainy and crumbly texture and is fragrant with rose syrup (B50). Have a slice or two of this with a cup of mint tea.                   

35 French Chocolate Cake

Cherubin. 5/2-3 Sukhumvit Soi 31 (Soi Sawasdee), 02-260-9800. Open Tue-Sun 10:30am-7pm; closed Mon
Chocolate lovers can die happily after a single bite from one of Cherubin’s rich dark delights. The ultimate sins are brownies and French chocolate cake (B110).

36. Raisin Stuffed Bread

Pornchai (Kanompang Banglumpoo). Tanao Rd., Banglumpoo, across from Soi Bavornrangsri. Open daily 8am-6pm
You can’t miss Pornchai, better known as Kanompang Banglumpoo. Before it, a perpetual queue of hungry diners, hypnotized by the scented trail of freshly baked stuffed bread (B30), shuffles zombie-like towards their fix of sausage, shredded pork, ham and raisin stuffing.

37. Kluay Kaek Larn Luang

Larn Luang Rd. Available daily
Passing Larn Luang and Chakkrapatdipong junctions, you’ll see many kluay kaek sellers zigzagging between cars with their bags of banana fritters. Competition is so fierce that the police now fine buyers and vendors alike for causing massive traffic jams. So please, don’t buy from them. (Hey, listen, the fritters from the guy with the red apron are awesome. We never told you. Don’t get caught.)

38. Patongko

Patongko Savoey. 540 Tanao Rd., opposite Bangkok Bank, 02-222-2635. Open daily 6-10am, 4-10pm
If your morning coffee routine involves Starbucks and BK, fine, but on some mornings, you still need to try the deep-fried dough from this long-standing stall. The B20 set includes sangkhaya (Thai custard), or pay a mere B4 per piece.

39. Santol Sorbet

Iberry. Try its J Avenue branch (Thonglor Soi 15, 02-712-6054). Fri-Sat 9am-midnight; Sun-Thurs 10am-11pm. For other branches, visit www.iberryhomemade.com
Their seasonal santol sorbet (B49) rocks! Period. Not in season? Try the mayom, Durian, or something a bit less adventurous like the Horlicks.

40. Macadamia Soft Cake

Mousses & Meringues. 245 Sukhumvit Soi 31 (Soi Sawasdee), 02-261-4830. Open daily 10am-7pm
The décor of this little house is cute and inviting (at least for ladies who lunch) and the Macadamia Soft Cake is irresistible (even if you’re a hardboiled macho man). B95 per piece.

41. Hot Chocolate A-la-minute

Salon. Lobby, The Sukhothai Hotel, 13/3 South Sathorn Rd., 02-344-8888. www.sukhothaihotel.com. Fri-Sun 2-5:30pm
The Sukhothai is famous for its all-you-can-eat chocolate buffet. For B800, you’ll get to taste everything chocolaty from the fountain and mousses to cakes and choco drops. Don’t forget to order a cup of the signature hot chocolate that’s made on the spot by melting chips of chocolate (16 types and origins available, from Cuba to Venezuela) and creme into a cup.

42. Peach Tart with Flaky Dough

The Lobby. Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok, 155 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-250-1000. BTS Ratchadamri. www.fourseasons.com/bangkok. Sat-Sun 8am-6pm
We’ve fallen in love with Stephane Calvet, the French pastry chef at Four Seasons. You could sample his treats at the Sunday brunch or Saturday buffet, but if you’re just going for the sugar high, you might as well stick to the B880 (with tea or coffee) high tea, which features all kinds of amazing desserts like ile flottante (a kind of light meringue floating on a whipped cream sauce). But we’re most impressed by Calvet’s handling of the pate feuillete, that delicate, buttery, layered dough that works so perfectly with tart fruits like apricots and peaches.

43. Brownie Cheese Cake

Cherubin. 5/2-3 Sukhumvit Soi 31 (Soi Sawasdee), 02-260-9800. Open Tue-Thu 10:30am-7pm; Fri-Sun 10:30am-8pm
The place’s name says it all: sweet decor, cutesy café and sugary treats that appeal to the girly clientele in the area. Cherubin keeps it light with a limited selection of cakes and chocolates, but you’ll want to hang around to enjoy the cozy setting, house special teas and fruit juices.Chocolate lovers can die happily after a single bite from one of Cherubin’s rich dark delights. The ultimate is the signature brownie cheese cake (B115).

44. Tia Maria Baileys Chocolate Mousse

Cakewalk. 21/3 Grand Heritage Bldg., Thonglor Soi 13, 02-390-0145. Open daily noon-midnight
This homey café is cast in white and purple hues, and outfitted with comfy couches, puffy pillows and soft easy-listening music. Artificial cakes scattered throughout the shop might throw you off guard, but the Tia Maria Baileys chocolate mousse (B95) hits the spot with its subtle Baileys fragrance and sinful chocolate sauce and icing.

45. Berry Surprise

Sugaroma. 60 Ekamai Soi 12, 02-381-9384, 02-713-3389, www.sugaroma.com. Open daily 11am-9pm
This small bakery shop is indeed imbued with a sugary aroma. Sweeter still is the color scheme that leans heavily to flowery pinks, whites and purples. Guys, if you want to come here, you’d better butch it up—especially as your order the Berry Surprise (B90), a sour berry mousse and berry cheese cake, with a sweet white chocolate sauce. (Make sure you call in and pre-order for the Berry Surprise).

46. Crepe Cake

Secret Garden. 117/1 Sathorn Rd. (in front of Sathorn Soi 5). 02-286-2454. Open daily 11am-9pm
Crepes are yummy on their own. Slather them in cream, stack up a hundred of them and douse in a wonderfully tart rasberry coulis and you’ve got BK’s favorite birthday cake (B125). The place ain’t bad either. Not only is it surrounded by a huge garden, the white house also resembles one inside, with pastel green walls, flower arrangements and decorative artificial vines clinging to chandeliers. Visual pleasures continue with cute diners to match.

47. Japanese-style Cheesecake

Visit Miki Ojisan No Mise at any one of its six branches. Try CentralWorld (7/F, Food Hall, 02-613-1610) and Esplanade (B/F, 02-660-9100)
Miki Ojisan No Mise does only one thing, cheesecake, so you can be sure they do it extremely well. The name means “Uncle Miki’s Shop,” and loong Miki already has a huge fan base judging by his six outlets (and counting) across the city. Soft, fluffy, yummy, freshly baked daily—this Japanese cake (B40/piece, B220/pound) has little in common with the rich, compact American variety. You will have to make one decision, though. Espresso, cacao, pineapple or original? For us, it’s original or nothing.

48. Taohuay

Bua Loi Nam Khing (no official name). Across from Watson’s, Yaowarat Rd.,08-7019-3170. Open Tue-Sun 7pm-2am
This dessert stall has enough mainland Chinese customer’s for the owner to have developed some broken Mandarin. They (and we too!) come for the hot and cold Chinese-style desserts. There are gingko seeds, black sesame dumplings and bean curd to be paired with your choice of fresh milk, ginger soup or longan juice (B40-80). Obviously the bua loi nam king is a big favorite but we prefer the taohuay in ginger syrup.

49. Lord Chong Noodles

680-682 Charoen Krung Rd., 02-221-5794. Open Fri-Wed 11am-10pm
Old men (and the occasional BK writer) can always be found here trying to beat the heat with light green lord chong noodles bathed in fragrant coconut milk and topped with shaved ice (B18).

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Navigate the busy sois and narrow walkways by Siriraj Hospital for some of the best street food our city has to offer. By Aimmarin Siritantitam and Sasinipa Wasantapruek

Across the Chao Phraya River next to Siriraj Hospital, Wang Lang is well-known for its many little sois cramped with shops and stalls. It’s also famous for its sheer density of food stalls, extremely popular among locals and students from Thammasat’s Tha Prachan campus. Here we round up our favorites.

1. Namtok Sida

112/5-6 Soi Wang Lang, Arun Amarin Rd., 02-412-7180. Open 9am-7pm
In operation for some 40 years now, this little Isaan restaurant is a team effort between an older uncle, who waits tables, and an auntie who makes somtam at a station near the front. The specialties here are the tender and flavorful grilled chicken (B90 for half, B180 for whole) and the sueah rong hai (strips of grilled beef brisket, B50). Other Isaan classics are also very good here, such as the grilled pork neck and the somtam (both B50). Be warned that Namtok Sida packs in the customers, particularly around lunchtime and on the weekend.

2. Tee Yai

Behind Wiwatpesad Pharmacy, Soi Wang Lang, 02-411-0275, 081-344-5842. Open 8am-7pm
Walk past the Family Mart on your right and keep walking down this narrow alley until you see a couple of red signs signalling you’re at Tee Yai. This pad Thai and hoi thod place has been around since 1967. The hoi thod (fried oysters with egg, B45) has just the right texture—crispy-edged and not too gooey, not too oily. Tee Yai is also known for its pad Thai. The fresh shrimp pad Thai (B45) has a great flavor of tamarind and a nice, not-too-soft texture of noodles, even though it’s only topped with two fresh shrimps.

3. POh Pia Sod Jao Kao Siriraj

Soi Wang Lang, Prannok Rd. 087-084-5510. Open Mon-Sat 6am-4pm
Literally 10 steps from Tee Yai, further into the alleyway, to the left of KFC, is a stall with a green sign selling poh pia sod. The stall, comprised of three tables, is over 30 years old—hence the name “Poh Pia Sod Jao Kao Siriraj” which translates into “Old Fresh Spring Rolls of Siriraj.” The rolls (B30) are stuffed with Chinese sausage, tofu, bean sprouts, and cucumber. It is served with a sweet and sour brown sauce made of Japanese apricot and topped with crabmeat and egg. It tastes even better with the prik nam som (chili and vinegar) provided.

4. Moo Tod Chao Wang

Opposite Siriraj Hospital, in front of TMB bank. 085-351-4777, 087-594-2466. Open Mon-Sat 9am-6pm
What is most noticeable about the Moo-tod Chao Wang stall is not the big sign posted in front, it is the large, jovial owner’s voice persuading passersby to try out the moo tod. In a nice twist from the usual crispy skewered options, this comes with a savory, full-flavored sauce slathered onto the soft pieces of pork. The owner says the secret to the good taste is the fact that he changes the cooking oil daily. B35 per 100g.

5. Wang Lang Bakery

113 Soi Wang Lang Plaza, Arun Amarin Rd., 02-866-1649. Open 8am-7pm
Known for its many flavors of bread, Wang Lang Bakery has a loyal following of customers who buy in bulk to take home. Out front, below the huge sign bearing the shop’s name, there are rows of bread with different toppings and fillings stacked on top of each other. Beyond that is a mini factory where staff are busy baking away. The bestsellers are the moo yong (dried shredded pork) bread and the raisin bread. The bread itself is sweet and super soft. Each loaf is B40.

6. Kanom Tung-taek Patim

Opposite Siriraj Hospital, in front of Kasikorn Bank, 085-937-1193, 085-110-0467. Open Mon-Sun 9am-8pm
The queue of buyers gathered around the stall makes it hard to miss. They are not only buying because of the reasonable price (B7-10 per piece), but also for the fantastic taste of the old-school tung taek (crepe pancake with filling). The fillings available are coconut, corn, foi thong (sweet egg yolk threads), steamed custard, and raisin, with foi thong being the most popular.

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Our fave salons to get a manicure.

N.I.C. NAIL SALON

3/F, Times Square Building, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-250-0322/-3. Open Mon-Sat 9:30am-6:30pm.www.nicnail.com
Open since 1991, this long-standing nail salon features nail sculpting and lengthening with gel or acrylic nails, manicure and pedicure spa service, as well as hand and foot masks with prices ranging from B300 for a 30-minute shoulder massage to B4,000 for a full-set of gel artificials. Try their new anti-aging hand treatments for B600 or heal the sole with a paraffin foot mask at B900.

GRANDE NAIL-THE NAIL RESORT

13 Sukhumvit Soi 63, 02-714-1015/-6. Open daily 10am-6:30pm. www.grandenail.com
You had best make a reservation, as this beautiful retreat for fingertips and toes has its regulars. Set in a converted house with lush, pebbled gardens and inviting interior, this “nail resort” features a glasshouse-like room to the side that offers a view of a beautiful garden with a running fountain. Savor the tranquility while you sit back in the specially designed chairs. Prices range from B100 to B5,000. Nail extensions start at B1,900. B200 for basic color paint.

TENTEN NAIL SALON

2/F TenTen bldg., 593/2 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-261-3832/-5. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 9am-7pm.
Also housing a hair salon, the place’s main feature is the US-imported Crystal Pipe System nail spa chairs worth a cool B240,000 each and designed for ultimate hygiene. TenTen uses OPI products, imported from the US. The painting is done in a separate room with its own ventilation system. Full manicures are B500, or spend B900 for manicure and pedicure. For a complete OPI manicure and pedicure which includes a mask treatment, count B1,800.

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