You’ve been touring a lot. How’s life on the road?
Had a couple of rough patches to be honest. Heavy travel has been quite draining. Got really sick at one point this year, and I think everyone has been pretty ill. But it’s getting pretty easy now. We’re sort of over our rough traveling part, so it’s all smooth sailing from here.

Are you excited about coming to Bangkok?
Excited and confused. It’s quite overwhelming going to a country that you are basically completely ignorant of – you just have to kind of sit there on Wikipedia all the time- like figuring out what it’s all about. It’s pretty amazing. It’s a privileged lifestyle to be honest.

It’s the first time to SEA for you, but not for your front woman?
Yeah it’s my first time. And this whole year of touring has been my first time out of NZ so it’s kind of mind blowing.

Best part of your rise to success in this past year?
Becoming a successful band outside of NZ is like a massive, whopping achievement. I never really expected to be doing what I’m doing, on the scale that I am, so the whole thing is quite amazing and thrilling. Very, very satisfying feeling to be living and working as an artist. It’s kind of living the dream.

How was Glastonbury?
It was cool, but it was the same sort of thing as every other festival to be honest. It’s just much more massive – such a grand scale. There are many stages – I can’t even remember how many stages there are. Got to venture around and get covered in mud. It was good fun.

You’ve been compared to Arcade Fire and MGMT … how would you describe your sound?
It feels pretty flattering to be a part of that music culture that is essentially the stuff that is inspiring for us. And Arcade Fire was an alternative band that became a pop band –that’s a place where I would love to end up. I’ve always just thought we were a rock band in the most generic sense. A lot of rock bands end up having different names and falling under different genres. I don’t know… it’s alternative music, and we are a rock band in my head. I never wanted to start an electro-pop band or anything like that.

What was the first album you ever bought when you were a kid?
I didn’t buy it. I got given it. It was Tool – Aenima. I was about 9 or 10 years old.

Do you have a music idol or someone that first inspired you to get into the business?
It was never really a business decision for me, especially coming from a place like NZ, where you can’t essentially make a living from music even if you are a very popular artist. It’s very hard to make any substantial career year to year. Because you can do it for one year, then it comes to an end.
For me I just always wanted to be writing music and to be a writer. And it was based on growing up and listening to music. I was a music kid. I was a rock kid. Played guitar. There were a whole bunch of bands that were a big influence on me. I’ve just always been a big alternative music fan.
When I first heard Massive Attack it sort of opened a whole bunch of doors for me. Nine Inch Nails- that’s a really big one. And heavy rock bands like Tool and A Perfect Circle. That kind of alternative hard rock –it was a lot of what I grew up on. Alternative music in general is inspiring.
One of my favorite artists now would have to be Bon Iver. I thrashed that album – the latest one. I listened to it all year.

So what’s up next for you guys? Are you working on anything new?
Yeah, I’ve been getting us ready to start rehearsing album two stuff. And I’ve been writing bits and pieces and sort of finishing off old demos of the years gone by. We’ve done a couple of remixes as well. So I always hope to have been able to do more but the reality of touring is that it’s just very hard to find inspiration because you are so tired all the time and just basically trying to look for food. There’s a lot of material to start with for album two, and at demo time, which is before the American tour, we are basically just going to hang out and demo and rehearse and muck about with music. Start from scratch.

Do you have any interest in playing more festivals?
We did a lot of festivals this year. There is a festival season in UK and all throughout Europe. Things like Wireless Festival and Dot To Dot. Hundreds of festivals. So we were just touring and doing our own shows, but every second day we were at a different festival . That sort of experience is a different style of touring to doing our own shows. Festival shows are so much more concise. And quite a challenge, to be honest. To get all the production right and play the right set at the right time. I think the next album we will definitely go back to the festival circuit again. Alternative music culture seems to thrive on the live music scene and even more so now on the festivals. It’s such a huge part of what the industry is about now. And it’s kind of the bread and butter for a lot of artists now. Doing a festival circuit is where a lot of the bills get paid and the commerce side of being an artist. So it’s pretty important for everyone involved.

Do you have a favorite track that you like to play in the live shows?
It’s different, it changes all the time. It’s like picking your favorite child: It’s kind of wrong.
It’s infinitely flattering and gratifying performing ‘Young Blood’ because of what the song has done for us and how it has connected people. For me, I find it strange when you see a band who has a hit and they get pissed off playing it live because that’s the one the audience responds to and that’s the one that got you where you are. That always strikes me as a little bit juvenile when bands get pissed off at that. Cause they do. Like Nirvana getting frustrated at playing ‘Smells Like Teen Spirit.’ A lot of bands get really pissed off playing their big hit. And they kind of resent it and end up disliking it, but I don’t feel like that at all about ‘Young Blood.’ It’s pretty amazing being able to play that song.

Do you listen to Thai music at all…do you know of any groups?
No, to be honest I have to just plead ignorance here and say that I was raised in a very isolated part of the world. New Zealand is not like any other country in that it is completely disconnected from outside influences and its almost quite a narcissistic country – no, it’s a wonderful place to grow up in; you can dream big in New Zealand. It’s just so culturally isolated that you don’t hear stuff. It’s really hard to hear other music, to get films, to actually know someone who is bilingual. We only speak English.

With all your research that you’ve been doing on Bangkok, is there anything that you want see or are particularly excited to do while you’re here?
I’m not actually sure what our schedule is, to be honest. When we get there, I’ll start thinking about it.

1.) Platoo pad krapao at Soei
2.) Guay Jub at Guay Jub Nai Aoun
3.)Bok-kia at Bok-kia Thadindang
4.) Bamee ped at Mandarin
5.) Guay jub yuan at Dang
6.) Ta go at Maliwan Kanom Thai
7.) Kanom pang sang ka ya at Pang Yaa Ari
8.) Nuea kwang gata ron at Tang Jua Lee
9.) Ped mo din at Buay Pochana
10.) Suki haeng at Suki Elvis
11.) Khao mun kai Singapore at Boon Tong Kiat
12.) Ice cream kati at Nattaporn Ice Cream
13.) Guay tiew moo krob at Haa Bai Tao
14.) Khao niew moon at Maewaree
15.) Guay tiew kua gai at Chonticha
16.) Eggplant fries at Giew Jeen
17.) Pla muek pad prik gluea at Tong Taa
18.) Guay tiew nuea at Gate Ocha
19.) Khao mun gai at Mongkol Wattana
20.) Guay tiew yam bok at Krob Krueng
21.) Giew goong naam at Jaak Kee
22.) Fried roti at Roti Poh Chang
23.) Guay tiew kua gai at Guay tiew kua gai Yaowarat
24.) Teen gai at Khao Tom OT
25.) Guay tiew nuea at Rod Ded
26.) Raad naa at Raad Naa 40 Pee
27.) Gang som tai at Samui
28.) Congee at Joke Prince
29.) Mee krob at Mee Krob Jeen Lee
30.) Moo Tod at Khao Niew Moo St. Gabriel
31.) Guay tiew kua gai at Nai Seng
32.) Kanompang sangkaya at Nom Joe
33.) Moo tod at Jae Jong
34.) Khao pad poo at Ko Yee
35.) Bamee poo at Sawang
36.) Ped palo at Chua Kim Heng
37.) Khao mok gai at Aisa Rot Dee
38.) Guay tiew lord at Guay Tiew Lord
39.) Laad naa at Jae Fai
40.) Guay tiew ped at Xia
41.) Pad see ew at Nay Lao
42.) Yen ta fo at Yen Ta Fo Ko Du
43.) Hoy tod at Nay Mong
44.) Khao tom at Khao Tom Prung
45.) Tao tung at Tao Tung
46.) Kanompang ping at Pang Yaowarat
47.) Guay tiew nuea at Mit Pochana
48.) Gui chai at Jae Toi
49.) Guay tiew nuea at Gao Lao Nuea Toon
50.) Khao soi at Khao Soi Chiang Mai
51.) Gai baan yang khao suan kwang at Paa Nuek
52.) Tom yum pung kai plachon naa at Manaowaan
53 Ice cream boran at Lung Chuan
54.) Pang sib at Khun Kob
55.) Kanom waan at Cheng Zim Ei
56.) Puek hima at Jae Nee
57.) Guay tiew nuea toon at Wattana Panich
58.) Woon ped at Thanun
59.) Baa bin maprao namhom at Kanom Baa Bin Maprao Namhom Sampran
60.) Ped toon fuk manao dong at Por Krua Tuen Yod Nuk Toon
61.) Pork knuckle spring rolls at Pork Knuckle Spring Rolls
62.) Giam ee nam prik pao at Jae Chung
63.) Kanom chan at Waan Dumrong
64.) Guay tiew reua at Toi
65.) Kanom jeen hai lum at Suthathip
66.) Lord chong Singapore at Lord Chong Singapore
67.) Goong ob woonsen at Ae Seafood
68.) Guay tiew tom yum at Jae Bua
69.) Look chin ping at Look Chin Anamai
70.) Kanom bueng ay Kanom Bueng Werng Nakorn Kasem (Yaowarat)
71.) Kanom jeen at Kanom Jeen Banglumpoo
72.) Moo tod ay Moo tord chao wang
73.) Khao niew moon at Pa Lek Pa Yai
74.) Guay tiew moo sub gradook on at Guay Tiew Moo Sub Gradook On Boran
75.) Sunnork gata ron at Ko Khun Ponyang Kum
76.) Ped yang at Jibkee
77.) Yum poo dong at Jae Liab
78.) Pla krapong tod rad prik at Chairode
79.) Guay tiew neua at Wandee
80.) Suki at Suki Ruen Pet
81.) Guay tiew pak mo at Pee Kay
82.) Nue pad nummun hoy kai dib at Tai Heng Pochana
83.) Gao lao at Iam Pochana
84.) Kai tod at Jae Kee
85.) Seafood porridge at Viroon Ice Cream
86.) Ped toon ya jeen at Ped Toon Ya Jeen Rod Chao Wang
87.) Moo yang kati sod at Pepper Don Mueng Moo Yang Kati Sod
88.) Guay tiew tom yum goong namkon at Pee or
89.) Bamee kai at Lung Chuey
90.) Bua loy kai kem at Bua Loy Kai Kem
91.) Khao mok nuea at Ahmad Rotdee
92.) Guay tiew moo at Rung Rueng
93.) Kanom tung taek at Pa Tim
94.) Pagrim kaitao at Jia Chai
95.) Moo Satay at Jirawat Pattakarn
96.) Yen ta fo at Yen Ta Fo Wat Kaek
97.) Pla yang at  Praram 9 Kaiyang
98.) Jim joom at Jim Joom Ladya
99.) Nam nueng at Nong Kai
100.) Nuea yang at Lum Duan Nuea Yang

76.) Ped yang (grilled duck, B90)

Jibkee, across Talad Nanglerng, 355-359 Nakhon Sawan Rd., 02-281-1283. Open daily 9am-2pm
For over 80 years, this shophouse has been serving authentic Cantonese grilled duck. Put this one at the top of your list because the grandpa’s family doesn’t want to take on the business. We’re so sad.

77.) Yum poo dong (fermented raw crab in spicy salad, B300)

Jae Liab, next to Phyathai Hospital, Phaholyothin Rd., 02-619-8639. Open daily 6pm-3am
It’s sour and spicy, with incredibly fresh crab—despite the fermentation process. Our favorite part is the seven different dipping sauces, with one designed just for the yum poo dong.

78.) Pla krapong tod rad prik (fried seabass with chili and garlic, B80)

Chairode, next to Phyathai Dental Group, 467/25 Phyathai Rd., 02-354-4090. Open daily 11am-8pm
This must-order dish is not so easy to find, especially with skin this crispy and flesh this tender.

79.) Guay tiew neua (beef noodles, B40)

Wandee, 1561 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-211-8566, 081-3730846. Open daily (except Buddhist holy days) 10am-5pm
This small shophouse is packed with people buying nearly flourless meatballs hundreds at a time, but we suggest you enjoy them with noodles, the perfect match.

80.) Suki (Sukiyaki, B145 for pork and B290 for seafood)

Suki Ruen Pet, across Amari Atrium, 1903-5 New Petchburi Rd., 02-314-5047, 02-314-4274. Open daily 11am-9:30pm
Another legendary shophouse, this Hainanese suki—the first in Bangkok—really shines thanks to its naam jim.

81.) Guay tiew pak mo (steamed rice dumpling in soup, B40)

Pee Kay, 95 Ladprao Soi 71, 083-697-6336. Open Tue-Sun (except holidays) 10:30am-6pm
Take your regular khao griab pak mo dumplings, drop them into a clear broth and add the extras: minced pork with tofu, minced pork with cabbage and much more. Delicious!

82.) Nue pad nummun hoy kai dib (stir-fried beef with oyster sauce and raw egg, B150)

Tai Heng Pochana, 593-595 Charoennakorn Rd., 02-877-9050-1. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm
A former chef at Hoy Tien Lao, he now runs his own place, reputed for importing many ingredients from Hong Kong just to make sure the tastes are just right—in particular his stir-fried beef specialty.

83.) Gao lao (Beef hotpot, B50)

Iam Pochana, near Wong Wian 22, 215/2-3 Maitrijit Rd., 02-225-0582. Open daily 4pm-4am
Meat lovers never tire of this 60-year-old establishment for its scrumptious beef hotpot and moo krata (hot pan buffet) at low prices.

84.) Kai tod (fried chicken, B180)

Jae Kee, 137/1-2 Soi Polo, 02-655-8489. Open daily 7:30am-9:30pm
One of the city’s most popular somtam joints, we actually like their finger-licking fried chicken even better. It comes covered with heaps of totally addictive deep-fried garlic. Delivery is also available at an additional charge.

85.) Seafood porridge (B150-B200)

Viroon Ice Cream, 505/2-3 Soi Pranakares, near Saphan Lueng, 02-233-6735. Open daily 6pm-midnight
Don’t let the name mislead you, Viroon Ice Cream actually serves up yummy (but pricey) seafood porridges. Get the one with big chunks of seabass or oysters.

86.) Ped toon ya jeen (steamed duck in Chinese soup, B50)

Ped Toon Ya Jeen Rod Chao Wang, 124/71-73 Pattanakarn Soi 47-49, 02-321-4469. Open daily 8am-3pm
Situated on the very edge of Bangkok, this place executes this Chinese recipe with tender duck that melts in your mouth.

87.) Moo yang kati sod (grilled pork topped with coconut milk, B6)

Pepper Don Mueng Moo Yang Kati Sod, Talad Airport, 02-503-8822, 081-426-3181. Open daily 11am-7pm
Known for its special recipe with rich coconut milk and pork, Pepper Don Mueng Moo Yang Kati Sod often has a long queue of loyal customers. They’re not just here for the pork, but also for the stellar sticky rice, which comes in different variations such as khao niew dum (black sticky rice) and pandanus.

88.) Guay tiew tom yum goong namkon (noodles in milky tom yum, B50)

Pee or, 68/51 Petchburi Soi 5, 02-612-9013. Open Mon-Sat 10am-10pm
At this price, those are some seriously big shrimps in your tomyam noodles. Despite the generous portion, you should have it as a snack in the afternoon because they often run out in the evening

89.) Bamee kai (noodles with egg, B30)

Lung Chuey, in front of Ekkamai Soi 19, Open Tue-Sun 8pm-4am
The partying crowds throng to this red pick-up truck when the clubs throw them out. The soft-boiled egg adds a velvety touch to the dish. Be prepared for long wait times—which aren’t helped by the somewhat rude and clueless staff.

90.) Bua loy kai kem (taro mixed with flour in coconut milk and salted eggs, B18)

Bua Loy Kai Kem, E 5/2 Block, Klongsan Pier Plaza, Charoennakorn Rd., 081-697-5971, 089-016-7959. Open daily 2-7pm
Their seven-color bua loy is made with seven herbs and veggies like butterfly pea, carrot or beetroot. The result is not only beautiful colors, but also a very aromatic smell.

91.) Khao mok nuea (yellow beef with biryani rice, B90)

Ahmad Rotdee, Praram 9-Srinakarin Rd., 081-811-4601, 089-076-7610. Open daily 9am-3pm
This is the real deal khao mok: fragant, not too fatty with great rice and tender meat. The beef, goat or chicken on biryani rice can be had with a hearty bowl of oxtail soup. (If you prefer goat meat, khao mok pae is available only on Mon, Wed and Fri.)

92.) Guay tiew moo (pork noodles, B40)

Rung Rueng, 10/1-2 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-6744. Open Mon-Fri 8:30am-4:30pm.
A family-run business that offers only one dish—noodles with pork and fish. Their pork broth is rich and flavorful as are the trimmings of liver and intestine. Just be warned this place gets packed on weekends, always the sign of a good restaurant.

93.) Kanom tung taek (Thai crepe with filling, B10)

Pa Tim, opposite Siriraj Hospital, in front of Kasikorn Bank, 085-937-1193, 085-110-0467. Open Tue-Sun 9am-8pm
The crowd gathered around the stall makes it hard to miss. They are not only here because of the reasonable price, but also for the fantastic taste of this old-school tung taek. The fillings available are coconut, corn, foi tong (sweet egg yolk threads), steamed custard and raisin.

94.) Pagrim kaitao (sweet vermicelli in coconut milk, B15)

Jia Chai, Yaowarat Rd., 087-936-0671. Open daily 9pm-midnight
Good pagrim kaitao is so rare. This mobile motorcycle stall hits the perfect balance of sweet and salty. The texture, too, with its chewy vermicelli, is just right.

95.) Moo Satay (pork satay, B6)

Jirawat Pattakarn, 331/20 Ratburana Rd., 02-427-3101. Open daily 11:30-10pm
Jirawat Pattakarn is really a Chinese restaurant, but in front of the restaurant, they have a small grill serving up a mean moo satay. Warning to the health-conscious: this dish comes with big chunks of tender, but fatty, pork.

96.) Yen ta fo (noodles in pickled bean curd, B40)

Yen Ta Fo Wat Kaek, next to Wat Kaek, 8 Pan Rd., 02-236-4393. Open Mon-Sat 10am-4pm
Another yen ta fo favorite for its potent sauce, big portions and crispy water spinach.

97.) Pla yang (grilled mango fish with herbs, B160)

Praram 9 Kaiyang, in front of Rama IX Soi 39, 02-719-8039. Open Tue-Sun 10am-8:30pm
The place is packed almost every day, all day, for its Isaan food, but our favorite is the pla yang, which has a wonderful herbal scent and pleasantly chewy texture.

98.) Jim joom (herbal hot pot, B90)

Jim Joom Ladya, in front of SCB, Ladya Rd. Open daily 7pm-1am
If you get here, you’ll find more than ten places selling the big, clay hot pots. They almost all taste similar, but we think this particular one is the best, as are the other Isaan dishes here.

99.) Nam nueng (Vietnamese sausage wrapped with veggies, B140)

Nong Kai, 74/49 Soi Senanikom, Phaholyothin Rd., 02-578-0532. Open daily 9am-9:30pm
This nam nueng comes with fresh, fragrant, herbal flavors. And even though this place is not a fancy restaurant, their veggies sure are clean. A healthy option that doesn’t skimp on flavor.

100.) Nuea yang (grilled beef, B70)

Lum Duan Nuea Yang, 1820 in front of On Nut Soi 52, 088-187-1612. Open daily 12pm-midnight
Love meat tender? Love meat true? Then you’ll love this dish; their beef has such an appetizing smell with its fermented seasoning and is really juicy. Also, try their equally delicious som tam poo ma (papaya salad with blue crab, B75).
 

51.) Gai baan yang khao suan kwang (grilled domestic chicken, B140)

Paa Nuek, 939/22 Bangna-Trad Soi 23, Bangna-Trad Km. 3 Rd., 081-732-8011. Open daily 10:30am-11:00pm (kitchen closed 10:30pm)
Famous for their chicken marinade, which keeps it moist despite the firm flesh of these free-range birds—a perfect match for their fiery Isaan food.

52.) Tom yum pung kai plachon naa (snakehead fish belly in tom yum B80-B150)

Manaowaan, near Lotus Prachachuen, 1027 Rimklong Prapa Rd., 081-641-6225. Open daily 4pm-midnight
A lemony soup packed with many herbs, fish belly and big fish eggs floating around in your bowl—it tastes better than it sounds, trust us.

53 Ice cream boran (old style ice cream, B15)

Lung Chuan, Klong Ladmayom, Bangramaad Rd., 02-422-4270, 089-215-2659. Open daily 8am-5pm
The uncle making this traditional ice-cream handpicks the coconuts—or so we’re told. The result is exquisite.

54.) Pang sib (steamed fish dumpling, B4 for a piece)

Khun Kob, Talad Sahakorn Sala Namyen, Sutthawas Rd., 087-009-3748. Open daily 8am-4pm
Another vague royal claim: this recipe is from the owner’s husband’s grandmother who used to work in the kitchen of HM King Rama V. All we know for sure is that this baked dish, also known as pun sib, is hard to find, and very hard to find this well-made.

55.) Kanom waan (varied sweets in syrup, B20)

Cheng Zim Ei, Talad Noi, Khao Lam Rd., 081-620-1788. Open 7pm–11pm.
Although we don’t have snow in Thailand, we have shaved ice with syrup. Sweet but not too sweet, the syrup here is particularly light and refreshing.

56.) Puek hima (fried, sugar-coated taro, B50)

Jae Nee, 303 Tanao Rd., 02-224-6526. Open daily 9am-5pm
The trick with this treat is to cook the sugar for as long as you can without burning it. And the timing here is just perfect. Their use of very soft taro doesn’t hurt either.

57.) Guay tiew nuea toon (steamed beef noodles, B60)

Wattana Panich, 338-336 Ekkamai Soi 18, 02-391-7264. Open daily (except last Mon of every month) 10am-9pm
Ekkamai has cheap eats, too, like this one. Their soup is wonderfully lumpy and gooey—the way it should be. While you’re here, try their famous goat meat in Chinese soup, too.

58.) Woon ped (coconut milk jelly, B30 for a box)

Thanun, 419/27 Moo Baan Boon Maa Nakorn, Pracha Utit Soi 54, 02-870-4011. Open daily 6am-7pm
In this far away land, there’s a duck-shaped coconut jelly that we promise will make you forget every other coconut jelly you’ve ever tried.

59.) Baa bin maprao namhom (sweet coconut pancake, B25 for 7 pieces)

Kanom Baa Bin Maprao Namhom Sampran, Talad Sriyan, Nakorn Chaisri Rd., 081-867-6573. Open Tue, Thu and Sat 6am-5pm
If you don’t call ahead, expect to wait two hours—yes, two hours—for their finger-licking good sweets made from the best Sampram coconuts.

60.) Ped toon fuk manao dong (steamed duck in lime soup, B95)

Por Krua Tuen Yod Nuk Toon, at the end of the alley between Charoenkrung Soi 89 and Soi 91, 02-289-5105. Open Sun-Fri 9am-4pm
This is the top place to grab a steaming bowl of limey soup filled with soft morsels of duck meat.

61.) Pork knuckle spring rolls (B40)

Pork Knuckle Spring Rolls, across the back door of Wat Tuek, Klong Tom, 089-052-1217. Open Tue-Sun 7am-5pm
This small stall does only one dish, but it’s really, really good at it—a salty and sweet gravy poured over these tender melt-in-your-mouth spring rolls.

62.) Giam ee nam prik pao (Chinese noodles in chili sauce, B30)

Jae Chung, Charoenkrung Soi 23, 083-775-7600. Open daily 8:30am-2pm
Giam ee is hard to find, and harder still is sourcing the version with chili sauce. Served for more than 20 years, Jae Chung’s version manages to avoid this dish’s most common pitfall—sogginess. Note, cars can’t go in the soi.

63.) Kanom chan (layered cake, B180 for the 8-inch tray)

Waan Dumrong, 573/115 Ramkhamhang Soi 39, Yak 14, Ramkhamhang Rd., 02-559-0677, 02-559-3134. Open daily 7am-6pm
Another famous Thai dessert, this lip-smacking recipe for Waan Dumrong’s kanom chan has been handed down more than 40 years. It has just the right amount of sweetness and a wonderful pandanus fragrance, so you can keep stuffing your face without feeling grossed out too quickly.

64.) Guay tiew reua (boat noodles, B15)

Toi, Ratchawithi Soi 18, behind Wat Makok, 081-619-1925, 087-045-0073. Open daily 8:30am-5:30pm
The namtok soup is so rich and tasty, there’s no need to season it.

65.) Kanom jeen hai lum (Hainanese noodles, B40)

Suthathip, 338-342 Dumrongrak Rd., 02-282-4313. Open Tue-Sun 8am-6pm
The shophouse offers many dishes, but their kanom jeen hai lum is unique, thanks to the addition of fragrant kapi (shrimp paste).

66.) Lord chong Singapore (green noodles in coconut milk and shaved ice, B18)

Lord Chong Singapore, 680-682 Charoen Krung Rd., 02-221-5794. Open Fri-Wed 11am-10pm
This is where all the neighborhood grandpas can be found trying to beat the heat with some of the city’s lightest and most fragrant lord chong.

67.) Goong ob woonsen (steamed shrimp with cellophane noodles, B70)

Ae Seafood, Chula Soi 14, Bantadtong Rd., 08-1619-1924, Open daily (except the 1st and 16th of every month) 5-11pm
This grungy, steamy street-side shophouse doesn’t need to be pretty thanks to the super fresh catches they serve up daily at ridiculously low prices.

68.) Guay tiew tom yum (noodles in tom yum, B30)

Jae Bua, Tha Dindang Rd., 081-700-4132, 089-517-0387. Open Tue-Sun 9pm-2am
This simple classic is not that simple to get right. But we’ve seen many lick their plate clean here. Don’t underestimate this small stall and come armed with patience as it can get very busy.

69.) Look chin ping (beef meatballs, B8)

Look Chin Anamai, across from Bangkok Insurance Company, 3 Soi Soonvijai, Rama 9 Rd., 02-318-1606. Open daily 9:30am-6pm
The beef’s flavor really comes through with smooth and tender meatballs. And if you’re super hungry, this place also serves noodles with their meatballs.

70.) Kanom bueng (Thai pancakes, B15)

Kanom Bueng Werng Nakorn Kasem (Yaowarat), past Yaowarat Soi 6, Yaowarat Rd. Open daily 7pm-11pm
Their special ingredient is the egg that they spray on their perfectly crispy crepes. The very eggy (and not too sweet) foi tong (egg yolk threads) filling is heavenly.

71.) Kanom jeen (rice vermicelli with curries, B20)

Kanom Jeen Banglumpoo, in a tiny alley near Tang Hua Seng department store, Chakraphong Rd., Open daily 10am-7pm
The kanom jeen has some irresistibly rich curries, including naamya (fish curry), naamya pah (fermented fish curry), namprik (sweet curry) and green curry. Accompanying veggies are on the house. Here’s to healthy binge eating!

72.) Moo tod (fried pork, B35 per 100g.)

Moo tord chao wang, opposite Siriraj Hospital, in front of TMB Bank, 087-594-2466, 085-351-4777. Open Mon-Sat 9am-6pm
In a nice twist from the usual crispy skewered options, this comes with a savory, full-flavored sauce slathered onto the soft pieces of pork. The owner says the secret to the great taste is the fact that he changes the cooking oil daily.

73.) Khao niew moon (Sticky rice with mango, B70-B80, depending on the price of mango)

Pa Lek Pa Yai, Maitri Chit Rd., Wongwian 22, 303. 084-935-2935. Open daily 9am–8pm (only during Feb-Jul)
You know a place is serious about their mangoes when they only open a few months a year. Their coconut milk is also particularly rich and addictive, making this place worth the trek. Call ahead for directions.

74.) Guay tiew moo sub gradook on (baby back ribs and noodles, B30)

Guay Tiew Moo Sub Gradook On Boran, 300m from Sukhapiban 5 Rd., 085-446-6760. Open daily 8am-4pm
Take Ayutthaya-style noodles—the original namtok soup—throw in some fresh lemon juice and add baby-back ribs. Need we say more?

75.) Sunnork gata ron (sirloin in hot pan, B165)

Ko Khun Ponyang Kum, Nualchan Soi 21, 085-819-8832. Open daily 11:30am-midnight
Cheap and tender, the beef is cooked just right as it sizzles its way to the table on a hot plate.

26.) Raad naa (noodles in gravy sauce, B40)

Raad Naa 40 Pee, next to 7-Eleven, Ratpattana Rd., 089-219-3963. Open daily 8:30am-8pm
From father to son, the faces in the kitchen may change but the dish remains identical. This long-standing establishment’s preserved pork is simply stunning.

27.) Gang som tai (sweet and sour curry, B80-B100)

Samui, 61/2 Soi Liab Tang Duan, Ratburana Rd., 083-815-1180. Open Mon-Fri 11am-9pm
Authentic and pungent, this curry packs only the freshest spices—such as the turmeric. Note, call ahead for directions.

28.) Congee (rice porridge, B30)

Joke Prince, 1391 Charoenkrung Rd., across Robinson Bangrak, 0-2234-9407. Open daily 6am-12pm and 5-9pm
An original congee the way it’s meant to be: with a full body and a natural, smoky flavor.

29.) Mee krob (fried rice noodles with tamarind juice, B120)

Mee Krob Jeen Lee, 326-330 Talad Plu Pier, 0-2466-9170, 0-2466-9037. Open daily 10am-10pm
The story goes that their great-great-grandfather once cooked for HM King Rama V the same mee krob recipe they serve today. In any case, the use of real tamarind is definitely becoming rarer, making this mee krob the real deal.

30.) Moo Tod (fried pork, B50)

Khao Niew Moo St. Gabriel, 61/2 Samsen Soi 13, 02-241-2377. Open Mon-Sat 7am-4pm, Sun 7am-2pm
White or black sticky rice is paired with various homemade toppings, from fried liver, shredded beef and sausages to sun-dried pork. Also known as Metta Moo Tod, it’s the perfect 11am pick-me-up.

31.) Guay tiew kua gai (fried noodles with chicken, B35)

Nai Seng, at the beginning of Soi Ari, in front of the pawn. Open Tue-Fri and Sun 6-9:30pm
The grandpa often won’t bother to cook up his noodles unless there are 15 of you ready to be served. Not that it takes long to collect a crowd. Once you’ve tasted his stuff, you’ll understand why he can afford to be such a diva.

32.) Kanompang sangkaya (starts from B15)

Nom Joe, 441 Tanao Rd. Open Mon-Sat 10am-11pm
Those who have already tried Mon Nom Sod and are looking for a more relaxed atmosphere should come here. The toasts are just as good, and you can also order heartier dishes like congee and fresh spring rolls.

33.) Moo tod (fried pork on rice, B20-B25)

Jae Jong, behind Tesco-Lotus Rama 4, 348 Rim Tang Rod Fai Sai Pak Nam Rd. Open Mon-Sat 9am-3pm
Jae Jong is an idol worshipped by messengers and motorcycle-taxis as she blesses them with her rice topped with moo tod, moo yaw and poo jaa at bargain prices (B20-B25, B200 for a kilo). And even if you don’t ride a bike, this is one blessing we can all be thankful for.

34.) Khao pad poo (fried rice with crabmeat, B40)

Ko Yee, Soi Charoennakorn 21, 02-863-6955. Open daily 10am-10pm
Fresh and lovingly hand-picked crab meat in fluffy, stir-fried rice. Call for directions first.

35.) Bamee poo (noodles with crab meat, B50-B300)

Sawang, 336/2 Rama 4 Rd. MRT Hua Lamphong. 02-236-1772. Open Tue-Sun 5-11pm
Passed down for over three generations, this recipe for homemade egg noodles is jealously guarded due to its incredibly silky texture.

36.) Ped palo (braised goose, B130 for small plate)

Chua Kim Heng, across from Pattanakarn Soi 6, 81, 83, 02-319-2511. Open daily 8:30am-6pm
The place is packed with neighborhood hi-so’s, as many claim that it’s one of the best braised geese in town: salty, sweet and wonderfully meaty.

37.) Khao mok gai (biryani rice topped with chicken, B40)

Aisa Rot Dee, beginning of Tani Road, 02-282-6378. Open daily (except the fourth Mon of every month) 8am-5pm
This food-court style venue is home to many Thai-Muslim stalls including this place serving tender chicken cooked in a deep, yellow curry.

38.) Guay tiew lord (stuffed rice flour rolls, B35)

Guay Tiew Lord, Yaowaraj Rd. in front of the Seiko shop, next to La Scala shark fin restaurant. Open Tue-Sun 6:30pm-1am
This little roll is loaded with so many flavors: pork, shiitake mushrooms and dried shrimp. And it’s all held together by toothsome rice noodles.

39.) Laad naa (noodles with gravy sauce, B350 for seafood)

Jae Fai, 327 Mahachai Rd., 02-223-9384. Open Mon-Sat 3pm-2am
The street laad naa has a pretty fancy price but it—and its reputation—are deserved thanks to a killer combination of seafood with crispy noodles prepared three ways.

40.) Guay tiew ped (duck noodles, B35)

Xia, 2856 Rama IV Rd., 02-671-3279, Open Mon-Sat 7:30pm-midnight
This simple (and ubiquitous) dish gets a five-spice powder treatment—just what the Chinese doctor ordered.

41.) Pad see ew (fried noodles with sweet sauce, B30)

Nay Lao, 124/8 Nang Linchi Rd., 02-678-3517. Open Tue-Sun 11am-11pm, Mon 11am-3pm
The owner makes this dish fast and never combines orders, making it even more remarkable that he’s always smiling and nice. You’ll smile, too, after one bite.

42.) Yen ta fo (noodles in pickled bean curd, B40)

Yen Ta Fo Ko Du, behind Central Silom and across from the Baptist Church. Open Mon-Fri 11am-2pm
The broth is balanced with plenty of deep-fried crispy garlic, sour pickled squid and slightly salty tao huu yii. Be warned, the grumpy owner is in charge of seating, so don’t just grab a stool.

43.) Hoy tod (fried oysters with flour, B65)

Nay Mong, corner of Plaeng Naam and Charoenkrung Rd., 02-623-1980. Open daily 11am-9pm
Here you’re getting a brilliant combo of seafood and egg; smoky, rich and cooked to perfection. Also, these are some of the fattest oysters we’ve ever seen.

44.) Khao tom (boiled rice, B80-B100)

Khao Tom Prung, 1083 Sukhumvit Road (corner of Soi Thong Lor), 02-391-8433. Open daily 5pm-10pm
Fresh and hygienic condiments go a long way when dealing with a dish where you just toss the ingredients into the boiled rice without cooking them first. Here, they’re also aromatic and served in very generous portions.

45.) Tao tung (variety of beans in syrup B15-B40)

Tao Tung, near Sapanluerng Church, close to Samyan Market, 02-214-0612. Open daily (except Weds) 12pm-midnight.
All the beans offered here are prepared by hand, and clearly a lot of attention goes into the process. A rare treat these days when you can just buy these things in bulk at the market.

46.) Kanompang ping (toast with toppings, B20)

Pang Yaowarat, across from Chinatown Scala Restaurant, Yaowarat Rd.
Many kinds of toasted bread are offered here, but we recommend you go for the crispy one. You can forget about their drinks, though (and you’ll see no one else orders any).

47.) Guay tiew nuea (beef noodles, B50)

Mit Pochana, 49 Thaprachan Pier, Open daily 7am-5:30pm
It’s a steamy, seedy backdrop with smells wafting in from all sides—not all of them pleasant. But having to wash your hair after a visit to Mit Pochana is a small price to pay for their tender, juicy beef noodles.

48.) Gui chai (flour stuffed with Chinese chives, B6 for a piece)

Jae Toi, 122 Mahannop Rd., 02-622-1221, 085-347-2121. Open daily 7am-3pm
A thin—so thin it’s see-through—rice flour wrapping packed with a generous stuffing that explodes in your mouth.

49.) Guay tiew nuea (beef noodles, B40)

Gao Lao Nuea Toon, 575/1 Radpattana Rd., 02-872-0672. Open 10am-3pm, 4:30-10pm
Two brothers take turns selling their delicious beef noodles. We suggest you go for the first round, which is even better than the evening offering.

50.) Khao soi (Northern Thai noodles, B30)

Khao Soi Chiang Mai, 328/10 Sukhothai Soi 5, 02-668-4497 Open Mon-Sat 8am-2:30pm
It’s not easy to find the perfect khao soi, but khao soi Soi Haa (as it’s also known) has a really rich hearty soup and chicken that’s tender and moist, unlike most other places.