A smart pick for F1 season—you get to watch the race away from the hoi-polloi— these fine-dining establishments offer clear views of the Marina Bay track and city skyline.

Hai Tien Lo
Perched on the 37th floor, the view at Hai Tien Lo is gorgeous—affording panoramic views of the city skyline and Marina Bay on a clear day. This Cantonese maestro is still as classy and its cuisine, as tasty as ever. Have a go at scrumptuous dishes like the cod fillet with Japanese sake sauce; and pan-fried foie gras flambed with red wine. Book way in advance for a table with a view.

JAAN
Perched atop the 70th floor, this is one of our go-to spots when we truly want to impress; the view is breathtaking. But it’s not just the view that’s striking, the elegant ambiance and spot-on service also serve to make any culinary experience here a winner. The real highlight though, is the well thought out and beautifully presented creations made with top-notch seasonal produce.

ME@OUE
At the heart of the CBD, at the top of the OUE Bayfront Building, this restaurant boasts a great view of Marina Bay, and—designed by Japanese architectural firm, Super Potato—it’s slick enough to leave an impression. The name of the establishment, “ME” is short for MediaCorp and the project is a joint venture by the media company, OUE and Food Junction. Food will come care of three culinary names: one-starred Michelin chefs Masayasu Yonemura (Japanese fare) and Laurent Peugeot (French cuisine), as well as Chinese chef Justin Hor.

Sky on 57
Perched atop Marina Bay Sands, this is just the spot to get a culinary high, with a view that’s sublime. Helmed by chef Justin Quek who put Les Amis on the gourmet map years ago, the menu clearly pays homage to local cuisine and Asian flavors, while still exhibiting his classically trained culinary roots. Humble dishes are elevated by the use of premium ingredients, as showcased in JQ’s foie gras xiao long bao, roasted crackling suckling pig with yuzu pepper, Maine lobster ravioli with braised leeks and laksa emulsion and charcoal-grilled Australian grain-fed lamb loin with sesame cream.

Stellar at 1-Altitude
This offering from the 1-Rochester folks is all about good food and a great view. Perched atop the 62nd floor, the clean lines and minimalist décor ensure your attention isn’t distracted from what it should be focused on: The food, of course. The menu, designed by chef Christopher Millar, features delectables such as pan-seared foie gras with pear carpaccio and jamon cream and a charcuterie taster spread including jamon, prosciutto and chorizo. They also offer truffled risotto with Maine lobster, slow-roasted suckling pig with crackling and four hour-roasted Wagyu rib eye with foie gras sauce.

Zafferano
An Italian restaurant at the top floor of Ocean Financial Centre, Zafferano offers 270 degree views of the island. Head chef Fabio Cucchelli puts out dishes like squid ink risotto ($24), herb crust roasted salmon ($35) and desserts like tiramisu ($18). To go with the food is a selection of 40 wines by the glass and total collection of over 200 Italian and premium labels displayed in custom-designed, temperature-controlled wine cabinets.

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These drinks may rely on flashy star power to grab your attention, but are also well worth drinking on their own terms.

2010 Grateful Dead Steal Your Face Red Wine Blend
Part of Hard Rock Cafe’s exclusive Wines That Rock range (inspired by music legends), this peppery red pays tribute to American rock band Grateful Dead’s eclectic style, with an experimental mix of syrah, petite sirah, zinfandel and Grenache. Other wines in the series include 2010 Rolling Stones Forty Licks Merlot ($80), 2010 Pink Floyd Dark Side of the Moon Cabernet Sauvignon ($80) and 2011 Woodstock Chardonnay ($78).
$80 at Hard Rock Cafe

2012 Château Miraval Côtes de Provence Rosé
The first vintage from Hollywood power couple Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt’s Provence estate Château Miraval, this salmon-colored blend of grenache, cinsault, syrah and rolle is pleasantly dry and mild. The actors paired up with Marc Perrin (owner of noted wine maker Château de Beaucastel in Châteauneuf-du-Pape) to make the wine, and Oyster Bar managed to snag just 20 bottles of the much coveted vino.
$160 at Oyster Bar

Estrella Damm Inedit
Well known Spanish chef Ferran Adrià (of the now-closed but ever influential molecular gastronomy temple El Bulli) teamed up with Catalonia’s largest brewery Damm to design this surprisingly easy-to-drink brew, with gentle fruit and coriander flavors, a light body and soft bubbles.
$21 at The Providore

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Brunch is both a great hangover cure and the perfect cover for daytime drinking. The only problem is that it’s often unimaginative and boring. Who really needs another from-concentrate mimosa or 30-buck eggs and toast? Thankfully, brunch has started to take off at non-traditional hangouts: Spanish tapas joints, Peranakan restaurants and Latin hotspots. Alex Chew, one of the directors of hip eatery Bacchanalia, which hosts raucous once-a-month brunch parties, says “People like having an alternative to the traditional night time party scene. After a boozy brunch, we draw the curtains and transform the restaurant into a club-like environment. Though you feel as if you've been out for the evening, there's still time to have dinner and get a good night's sleep.” With the slew of new brunch experiences on offer, it can be hard to figure out what’s worth your time. Here are ten of our favorites.

BUFFET BRUNCH

Lime
For a blowout brunch, fancy schmancy hotel buffets can’t be beat. This new one at Parkroyal at Pickering’s on-site restaurant is lovely. In an airy light filled dining room, swig Piper-Heidsieck Champagne while digging into moreish mushroom risotto (made a la minute), fiery Thai salads and house made gravlax. The servers come round with hot pizza too, offering up hot cheesy slices at 30 minute intervals. There is also lots of lovely cheese—don’t miss the stinky livarot—and fresh pastries (the tender nutella-filled chocolate muffin is a real winner). It’s all surprisingly affordable: $68++ or $98++ (with free-flow Champagne and wine).
Brunch available noon-3pm.

Sabio Tapas Bar & Restaurant
An awesome deal at $49.90++ for an a la carte buffet of cold—try the creamy St Helens oysters or fresh cucumber-y gazpacho—and hot tapas (like their killer spicy pan-fried calamari or briny noodle paella with squid ink), this meal’s been christened the “Hangover Brunch”. There’s no better cure than hair of the dog and this feast comes with free-flow cava as well as red and white sangria.
Brunch available Sun 11:30am-3:30pm.

FRENCH BRUNCH

Taratata Bistrot
Tanjong Pagar is pretty quiet over the weekend, so the brunch vibe at this charming Parisian-style bistro is real laidback. Chef-owners Bertrand Raguin and Philippe Nouzillat put out a menu of French crepes—with fillings like ham, egg and cheese ($11)—plus, eggy classics such as oeuf cocotte ($12).
Brunch available Sun 10:30am-4:30pm.

LATIN BRUNCH

Bochinche
The freshly minted Argentinean establishment has just launched a new brunch featuring recipes like braised ossobuco on toast ($24), and chorizo grilled tomato omelet ($23). The spacious 100-seater’s just as appealing in the day as in the evening: sit at the convivial open kitchen counter or dine alfresco on the restaurant balcony.
Brunch available Sat-Sun 11am-3:30pm.

SUR Nuevo Latino Kitchen
At this eclectic two-story space run by Venezuelan-Peruvian chef Alejandro Luna, you can order up arepas stuffed with black beans and white cheese ($14) and poached eggs with pork belly ($21) for brunch.
Brunch available Sun 11am-3pm.

PERANAKAN BRUNCH

Violet Oon’s Kitchen
The mid-morning menu here is full of items like corn beef hash ($17)—spiked with a good dose of chilli—and French toast with gula melaka banana sauce ($15). All served up in generous portions, the dishes are big enough to tide you through dinner, especially washed down drinks like their lychee mint smoothie.
Brunch available Sat-Sun 9:30am-3pm.

SPANISH BRUNCH

My Little Spanish Place
The new brunch at My Little Spanish Place includes some stellar churros ($12) as well as savories like huevos al horno ($18), baked eggs with tomato and chorizo. The really hungry can order up chuletillas y huevos ($28), pan-fried baby lamb cutlets with two eggs and salad. Wash it down with their cava mimosas ($12/glass, $42/jug) and creamy cafe con leche ($5).
Brunch available Sat-Sun 9:30am-3pm.

WESTERN BRUNCH

Halia @ Raffles Hotel
There’s something real relaxing about brunching at the iconic Raffles Hotel. The brunch menu here changes on a seasonal basis but might include pancakes with strawberries ($12), Clonkilty black pudding with poached egg ($18) and comforting white bean iberico chorizo stew with sunny side up egg ($16).
Brunch available Sat-Sun 11am-5:30pm.

okb
Try inventive brunch dishes such as Breakfast in a Cup ($6.90), a crumbly pastry shell filled with a whole egg and bacon.
Brunch available Sat 11am-2:30pm.

The Bank Bar + Bistro
It ain’t easy to find a spot for Sunday brunch around Marina Bay. But this watering hole serves an affordable morning menu of classics such as eggs benedict ($13), brioche french toast with poached honey cinnamon pear ($10) and The Bank Breakfast ($20), a heaping serving of eggs, ham, sausage, baked beans, roast potatoes, vine tomatoes, plus coffee, tea or juice.
Brunch available Sat-Sun 9am-6pm.

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All you need to know about this year’s F1—from A to Z.

Art
Perhaps surprisingly for an event dominated by loud noise and macho moves, this is a great time of year for art, with some exciting exhibitions taking place throughout September. Among the most relevant (since it was specially curated for the race), popular British artist Paul Oz (Sep 19-Oct 20) presents his signature large scale “explosive” paintings for his self-titled solo show at Icon Gallery.

Meanwhile, art enclave Gillman Barracks is celebrating its First Anniversary through Sep 28–with late-night openings and an array of free performances from the likes of avant-garde collective Strangeweather Movement Group.

A is also for apps, and there are two official ones this year: the SingTel Pitstop Mobile App (which lets you share pictures of the race in a fan gallery) and the Singapore GP Mobile App. Frankly though, you only really need the I-S App, available for both your Android phone and your iPad.

 

Beautiful people

F1 attracts glamorous, good-looking types like no other weekend of the year. “Always dress to impress,” says Pangaea’s [famed party girl] Sabrina Van Cleff Ault. “Dress for speed and heat. It’s going to be a crazy hot weekend so you have to be prepared for anything. Bling is the best way to flash.” And it’s not too late to join in the fun: online luxury retailer shopthemag.com will be setting up a Fashion Pitstop pop-up store (#07-37, 1003 Bukit Merah Central, 6635-1561) from Sep 19-21, carrying desirable one-off pieces from the likes of Malaysia’s famed Khoon Hooi and Indonesia’s Johnny Ramli. You’ll need them to stand out from the crowd. Call 6635-1561 or email [email protected] for guest-list.

The bold and the beautiful will also be found at the Amber Lounge, either on the front row or sashaying through the crowds during the haute couture fashion show by local designer Frederick Lee, choreographed by famed stylist Daniel Boey.

 

Champagne

What’s F1 without some Champers? Get ahead of the drivers by popping a few bottles before the finishing celebrations. Check out our list of dining deals and parties for special events and menus, but if you just want to get straight to the good stuff head over to Clarke Quay’s Aquanova, where G.H. Mumm Cordon Rouge Champagne will be going for $99 nett per bottle.

 

Dining deals

As is now standard for F1 weekend, tons of restuarants are going all out with special menus and promos. The big one this year is undoubtedly over at Pan Pacific (right in the heart of the action, no less) where daytime pop-up brunch party Bacchanalia Brunch: GPSS Edition is taking place. The bash features delish canapés and dishes from Bacchanalia, accompanied by cool music courtesy of DJs Jesse Marco, Stephen Day and Sungus. Another solid options: Wooloomooloo and Balzac Brasserie’s Singapore Grand Prix 2013 Special Promotion (available Sep 15-26), which comes with a promotional sausage platter paired with a glass of wine at just $18.

 

Exclusive appearances

It’s one of the hottest topics of gossip over race weekend: who’s been spotted where and when. “We do not usually know which celebrities will attend until they show up,” says Podium Lounge’s organizer Robbie Hoyes-Cock. “But rest assured that the majority of F1 team, drivers and team-owners will turn up at the Podium Lounge as they stay at The Ritz-Carlton due to its proximity to the Paddock Club.”

Over at 1 World Music Festival, there will also be special appearances by non-performing A-listers. “We have tables reserved for the usual slew of celebrity guests who will be making appearances at the Aire Lounge area,” says organizer Gregory Gumo. “It’s a pop-up club on festival grounds where guests can rub shoulders with the performers as well as the rest of the big names coming to town."

 

Free Rides

Just in case you didn’t know, rides on the Singapore Flyer are free for all ticket holders. Suffice to say, the view will be stunning.

 

Grand Theft Auto V

It’s the gaming event of the year and probably the closest most of us are going to get to racing recklessly around a city. (The provocative ad they took out on our cover last week gives you a pretty good idea of what’s in store…) It’s been five years since the last one, so expect queues out the door when the latest instalment of one of the most popular (and notorious) video games of all-time launches on September 17. It’s available for both Xbox 360 and PS3, priced at $79.90-189.90 from Comics Connection. Find out more at its website.

 

Headline acts

This year’s headliners at the 2013 Formula 1 Singapore Grand Prix Concerts might just be the best yet. As well as The Killers, you’ve got Rihanna, Justin Bieber and Big Bang—hey, even they’re not your thing, there’s no denying they’re huge. Plus familiar old names like Tom Jones and, ahem, Bob Geldof (why he’s playing on the Saturday and not the Monday so he can sing about it, is beyond us); alongside smaller but no-less-interesting names like Laura Mvula (Friday Sep 20, 8:30pm, Zone 4) and Owl City (Monday Sep 23, 6:15pm, Zone 4).

“Each year we try to curate a broad span of music and entertainment to cross as many age groups and genres as possible,” says organizer Michael Roche of Midas Promotions. “Killers is our rock act, Rihanna our diva female pop act, and Justin Bieber and Owl City for the younger market. A huge amount of work has gone into securing this line up and the production is going to be stunning on the massive Padang main stage.”

 

Iggy Azalea

Move over Nicki Minaj. Iggy Azalea is the new It girl in hip hop, and this blonde model from Down Under (yes, really) with the filthy mouth is one of our top picks at the 1 World Music Festival.

"I" also stands for illusions, with acclaimed UK magician Dynamo showcasing his awesome tricks on Saturday Sep 21, 7:55pm, Zone 4, 10pm, Zone 1 and Sunday Sep 22, 6:30pm, Zone 1. The guy’s crossed the River Thames on foot, so let’s see what he does with Marina Bay.

 

Jetting away

After five years of F1 it’s possible you’ve just had enough. If that’s the case, then why not use the weekend to get away? Affordable return flights (going out Friday, back Sunday) are still available to Hong Kong ($288 upwards with Tigerair), Bali ($204 upwards with AirAsia) and Bangkok ($304 upwards with Jetstar).

 

The Killers

There’s no question where we’ll be on the Saturday evening: front of the Padang crowd singing along to Mr. Brightside. Still a hot commodity in the rock ‘n’ roll scene, with their latest album Battle Born named 2012’s second best by Rolling Stone mag, this is Brandon and the boys’ first ever appearance here so expect something really big.

 

Last minute staycations

One of the smartest ways to get in on the action without actually getting in. At the Pan Pacific Singapore, the Race in Style room promotion (from $1,100) is on September 20-22, including access to the Pacific Club on level 38, which offers 360-degree views of the race track.

Other trackside options are The Ritz-Carlton Millenia Singapore—where the Singapore Night Race deal goes for $1,250 from Sep 21-23—and Mandarin Oriental, where F1 rates start from $895. Further from the race track, Carlton Hotel from Sep 19-22.

 

The Main event

It’s easy to forget, what with all the ancillary events and antics, that there’s actually a race happening. If you’re not a year-round follower of F1 here’s what you need to know: As we go to press (ahead of the Italian Grand Prix on September 8) Red Bull’s Sebastian Vettel (last year’s winner in Singapore) leads the Drivers’ Championship by a whopping 46 points over Ferrari’s Fernando Alonso and 58 over Mercedes’ pretty boy Lewis Hamilton.

There’ll be six races to go after Singapore, so it’s all still to play for, but expect the chasing pack to be desperate to hunt down the seemingly invincible Vettel. Hamilton has said in interviews that he expects Singapore to be a turning point. “I think we’ll be back to being very competitive, or more competitive when we get [there]. The circuits from there are more twisty and more higher downforce, compared to Spa and Monza which require a specific package, which either works or doesn’t, and you are stuck with it.”

 

Night & Day Grand Prix Ultra Lounge

The latest addition to F1’s party series (see our round-up of parties) will feature celebs and jet-setters lounging at luxuriously-furnished gallery The P’enthouse by the P’ Club Group, and boasts a massive live telecast of the race as well as an art exhibition, with donations going to the Make-A-Wish foundation.

 

One World Music Festival

This brand new addition to the weekend looks set to give the more-established events a run for their money. Snoop Dogg’s performing for the first time in town, and so is Iggy Azalea alongside a stellar DJ lineup which includes Moby, Orbital (read our interview with Phil Hartnoll), N*E*R*D’s Chad Hugo and Cosmic Gate at the nearby Marina Barrage. “It’s going to be an unparalleled festival” says organizer Gregory Gumo. “We’ve gotten big names from each genre to perform on the same stage and amazing production to complement the acts—basically non-stop entertainment.”

 

Parties

Parties and F1 go hand in hand. And this year, there are more than ever (see F1 Singapore Grand Prix parties). And if you don’t want to pay, scroll down to "V" for VIP guestlists to learn how to score an entry.

 

Quay to discounts

Ticket-holders get special treatment over at Clarke Quay, including free drinks at Playhouse (#01-08 Blk. C, 6305-6768, www.playhouse.sg) and discounts off your bill at tons of other spots (visit Clarke Quay's dedicated microsite for more). There are race promos for non ticket-holders, too, as well as special appearances by Mexican race driver Sergio Perez (currently twelfth in the Drivers’ Championship) and two-time Formula One World Champion Mika Hakkinen on Sep 18, 6:30pm at the Central Fountain.

 

Rev-Up @ Orchard

The annual shopping celebration held from Sep 13-23 will feature pop-up stalls selling F1 merchandise, free gift-with-purchase deals at several malls including Orchard Central and Wisma Atria, fashion shows, music performances by local acts and a go-kart race event at *SCAPE.

 

Steve Aoki

The king of electro is back. Sure, the guy was recently caught using pirated software to synch his tracks for a recording with Linkin Park, but who else can work up a crowd like he does? Aoki spins Sep 21, 10pm at Ep!c Pit Stop Saturday with Steve Aoki at Zouk.

 

Ticketing

In case you haven’t purchased your tickets to the main event yet, here are the latest updates: premiere Walkabout tickets, which give you access to all four zones and the main concerts, are sold out. Your next best option is to go for the Zone 4 tickets ($148-178), which will still give you access to the main concert and a limited view of the racing action. Depending on your budget, there are different tiers still available—$48 gets you a regular seat at Empress Place (although still limited to Zone 4) or go for the Turn 2 Grandstand tickets ($1,288) which give you a decent view as well as access to all zones. Log onto the website for updates and more details.

 

Unwinding

All that action taking its toll on you? There are a few special ways to unwind. From Sep 19-22, head to nearby The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands to do some late-night shopping and indulge in special dining privileges (look out for exclusive chef appearances). Following that, tee-off at the Marina Bay Golf Course during its Weekend Night Golf Special from Sep 21-22, with the course open from 4:30pm till very late. And then chill out at Bar Stories at their Off Your Tracks nights (Sep 20-21, 7-11pm), where there will be Spin the Rave Wheel games and trivia alongside bespoke race-inspired cocktails.

 

VIP guestlists

Getting on a guestlist is easier said than done, though if you’re “in the company of a celebrity, F1 Driver or team owner, royalty, supermodel or an ambassador of some sorts, you might just get in,” says Robbie Hoyes-Cock, organizer of Podium Lounge. Our advice: make lots of friends at the race track, especially anyone who could pass for a model. You never know.

 

Weish

One of Singapore’s brightest talents and most electrifying live acts, the girl known to her parents as Chew Wei Shan (and a familiar face at local live joints Timbre and Blu Jaz) is performing her unique brand of acoustic-pop on Friday Sep 20, 5:15pm & 7:15pm, Zone 1; Saturday Sep 21, 7pm, Zone 4; Sunday Sep 22, 7pm, Zone 4. Read our interview with her.

 

Xtended opening of the MRT

Getting around town over race weekend can be a real pain. But thanks to late night opening of the MRT (trains ran until 1am last year) you needn’t worry about getting stuck in traffic or waiting for a cab that never comes. Don’t forget there are six different stations serving the various circuit zones.

 

You

Look after yourself, you hear? Don’t forget to wear comfy shoes (getting around the various zones involves a lot of walking) and ear plugs (“survival kits” which also include a poncho usually go for $2 on site), and drink plenty of water (you’re allowed to take one bottle of up to 600ml into the circuit—anything bigger is banned, along with laser pointers, Frisbees and—no joke—animals). Plan your exit strategy carefully (crowds start building at the exits nearly half an hour before the end of the race) or else you’ll be stuck there till late. And then treat yourself to a foot massage the next day. One of our all-time favorites is Orchard Way Beauty Shop in the seedy environs of Orchard Towers (#04-03, 400 Orchard Rd., 6737-1758). Ask for Sam—the man is a magician and only charges $38/hour.

 

Zones
There are four zones in the F1 circuit (view the map at www.singaporegp.sg/), but Zone 4 (covering The Esplanade, the Padang and towards Raffles Place) is where you need to park yourself. That’s where the main action is taking place.

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It’s easy to get local water—it’s clean, safe and practically free—so you if you’re supporting home-grown, you might want to give these places that don’t serve it (or charge for it) a miss.

Fika Swedish Café and Bistro
They charge 50 cents for tap water.

The Moluccas Room
No tap water served. You can get sparkling or still water from $10 per liter.

Oceans of Seafood
They charge 50 cents for tap water.

Putien
They charge 30 cents for tap water.

Wild Oats
No tap water served but you can get bottled water from $1.50.

 

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The recent MTV Video Music Awards showed that the current makeup trend is all about playing with your lips—here are our four picks to try this season.

Mysterious Red

Red lips are always hot. But instead of sticking to a bright shade, go one (or two) tones darker for a classier look.
Inspired by: Taylor Swift
Our pick: YSL: N.54 Prune Avenue, Nocturnal plum (B1,200)   

 

The Gold

Gold and brown make for a softer look, but adding a shimmery texture will totally get you glamorous results.
Inspired by: Katy Perry
Our pick: MAC Smash Hit sheer golden sparkle (B810) 

 

The Plum

Purple has been a common sight on eyelids for some time now. As for lips, the color is proving so hot on the catwalk that many brands are also launching their own shades of aubergine and magenta.
Inspired by: Selena Gomez
Our pick: Illamasqua New Lipstick in ESP (B850)

 

The Orange

Orange is certainly in the spotlight right now. Pick and play with a bright shade and match it with golden or black smokey-eyes. (Well, lips are hot, Miley’s twerking not so much)
Inspired by: Miley Cyrus  
Our pick: NARS Red Square Velvet Matte lip pencil (B950)

 

Tips:

Before applying the lipstick: Apply the liquid foundation that you use on your face to your lips. This will create a neutral canvas on which to show 100% of the lipstick color.

After applying the lipstick: Touch up with tissue paper. This will help remove the oil from your lipstick, leaving only the color on your lips. Then you can apply the lipstick a second time for long-lasting wear.

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Song: “Chor Ma Kok”

Artist: Greasy Café
Label: SmallRoom Records
It’s little surprise that Kongdej Jaturanrasamee’s impressive second independent film, Tang Wong (see our review +film, page 38) boasts an equally impressive soundtrack. On top of two tracks from Yellow Fang, Kongdej once again calls on mate Lek Greasy Café to take care of the centerpiece tune. In keeping with the film’s questioning of belief, “Chor Ma Kok” delves into the idea of forgetting who you are in order to achieve what you really want. Musically, the track finds Lek expanding beyond his tried and trusted sad-guy-with-a-guitar formula, incorporating distinctly Isaan rhythm and percussion as well as some slightly creepy snippets of the traditional song from which it takes its name.

Song: “Ter Takon Tee Khao Krasib (Wired)”

Artist: Vinegar Syndrome
Label: Axis Records
The alt-rock duo Wuttinun Chamchoi and Korn Mahadumrongkul, return with their second single. Lyrically, it’s a similar story of a guy looking back at his past, yet “Wired” has a more uplifting edge. The sound, too, is more dynamic. Opening with a haunting choral sound, the first lyrics don’t appear until around the minute and a half point by which time the band’s built up an impressive wall of sound. On the evidence of their first two singles, Vinegar Syndrome have arrived with not only a fully-formed sound, but an adeptness for poetic lyrics that’s quite rare for Thai bands.          

Song: “La Fun (Dawn)”

Artist: Cloud Behind
Label: Independent
We’d argue that if one (sub)genre currently summed up the sound of young Bangkok right now, it’d be dream-pop. But while some bands do little more than bury their melodies under layers of fuzzy guitar, Cloud Behind really nail the aesthetic on this their debut release. The five-piece introduce themselves with a track that tells of a guy who wakes from a blissful dream to face the facts of life. With its mellow vocals, woozy synths and overall snail’s pace, this is one dream we’d rather not wake from.

Song: “Ter Kid Wa Roo Jak Rak Tee Kei Roo Jak Kae Nai”

Artist: Tabasco
Label: Lemon Factory
After previous comparisons to Two Door Cinema Club, we’re thrilled to hear the band aren’t afraid to shake things up, if ever so slightly, adopting a more electronic-infused sound here while retaining the same attention to melody. The single’s super long title, which literally means “how well do you think you know love,” gives you a pretty good idea what to expect, as frontman Champ continually asks such heart-wrenching questions over a stuttering, electro backing track.
 

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As the iconic Bed Supperclub closes its doors forever, BK looks back at two decades of long-gone clubs in the city, from Rome Club to Ministry of Sound.


1980s


The Palace

(corner of Viphavi Rangsit)

“Names like Diana, The Bubble and The Flamingo flourished during the turn of the decade (70s-80s). This was the very last leg of the elegant era as these were probably the last batch of discotheques located on hotel premises—Diana at The Oriental, Bubble at the Dusit Thani and The Flamingo at The Ambassador. You knew the drill, you had to be decked out, not only to be seen, but to be allowed in. DJs and live local bands took turns, Rick James’ “Super Freak” blasting, the seating (armchairs and sofas) comfortable, and the waitresses—in long side-slit burgundy dresses. If memory serves correctly, Diana was the first in Thailand to employ laser lights. Dancing still took place on the dance floor. Bangkok nightlife was courteous and dashing. Then came The Palace in the early 80s, when everything changed. Discotheques or clubs became independent of the hospitality business and so the grace and charm and style and taste disappeared.”
–Pahd Pasiigon, author


Nasa

(Ratchada)

Back before the new age restrictions were imposed by the government, the majority of clubbers were aged under 20. But NASA was designed to provide late-night entertainment for the 20-something crowd. The venue’s design took its cues from the space race to which it owed its name: a huge hangar complete with smoke machines, flashing lights and a sound system blasting dance hits. It was capable of packing in some 4,000 partiers a night.


1990s


Narcissus

(Sukhumvit 23)

“Back in my day, the name Narcissus was synonymous with extravagance. Not only was the place heavily inspired by classic Roman architecture—very rare in Bangkok—but their light and sound systems were top of the line. We would usually party somewhere like Deeper first and then head to Narcissus to continue through to 6am in the morning. It was not only partiers like us who would head there from Deeper—the DJs would hop venues, too. ”
– Jakkapat Wongsopa, owner of 2W Café & Hostel Phuket


Taurus

(Sukhumvit Soi 26)

“Located on Sukhumvit Soi 26, to me Taurus was like an old version of Bed Supperclub. The bar consisted of three zones—a live band doing jazz (the diva Maleewan Jemina was the resident singer), a restaurant and a club zone in the middle where DJs spun dance tunes not really like the electro of today. It’s always funny when people complain about expensive drinks today, as when you look back to Taurus’s era, it cost you B3,000 to open a bottle of whiskey with a group of five people maximum. Mixers were B100, too, which is very expensive.”
–Nathan Patcharinsak, freelancer


Rome Club

(Silom Soi 4)

“In 1992, my dad sent me to Bangkok to get in touch with our Thai roots (on my mother’s side) and after enjoying Bangkok’s favorite pastime during the day, shopping, me and my sisters found ourselves at Silom Soi 4 almost every other night. The jam-packed streets and clubs were interspersed with other luk kruengs as well, some of which remain our friends to this day. There seemed to be no age limit and we often met wild 15 year olds. I wish we could reconnect with some of these old friends today. One of my favorite places was Rome Club. It was located at the end of the soi and was always busy from weekday to weekend and had the best music for dancing. As I love to dance, I found myself dragging my sister or any friends onto the stage while videos played behind us on the wall.”
–Katherina Leili Dreith, consult at Omroom


Deeper

(Silom Soi 4)

“Deeper was one of the first clubs for underground raves. It was a very important spot to be seen for the raving subculture and till today a lot of us who partied there still remain great friends. I’m proud to say I witnessed and was a part of the Thai rave scene’s first generation after a group of my friends came back from the US. They brought raving back with them and it continues to grow now.”
–Yung San, PR at Long Table


Lucifer’s

(Soi Patpong)

“The popular Lucifer statue in the front would welcome you to the hell-like decor inside: a cave-like club where everything looked melted by hellish fire. It was one of the first clubs (opened in 1998) to play techno trance and close late (5am).”
–Jeffrey Columbres, manager of Bash
 


1999


Song Salueng 

(Thonglor Soi 21)

“It opened in the early 2000s under the name Escudo, but changed a few years later to Song Saleung. Escudo then became a pure hip-hop club a little further down the street. Few places on Thong Lor and Bangkok have ever been so popular. Even on a Monday night, you had to get there before 10pm to get a table. On weekends, just forget about it! The parade of eye candy was outstanding night after night. Never seen anything better throughout the whole of Asia. One of the little princesses used to party there with her friends on the second floor, always followed by a bunch of pumped-up bodyguards. A night to remember was Black Label’s wild Christmas party in 2007. After renovations, when it was closed for almost a year, the crowd never really came back. Funky had taken over.”
–Johan Hammar, project coordinator


Club  Culture

(Phaya Thai Road)

“Club Culture was epic. The owner came up with the idea of doing a uni night every Wednesday, allowing students to host their own parties. This was the beginning of the indie-rock/underground scene. At a time when every place seemed to be about trance and hip hop, Club Culture was the only venue offering diversity and it spawned many party collectives like Dudesweet, Club Soma and Happy Alone. On top of that, the owner started bringing in international DJs and launched the Culture One International Dance Music Festival. Café Democ and Club Culture were quite similar, with Café Democ set in a unique and charming location around the corner of Ratchadamnoen Road.”
– Som Tum, co-founder of the Goodcat collective


2001


Ministry of Sound

(Sukhumvit Soi 12)

“Ministry of Sound was absolutely massive. The second floor was VIP and you could look down on the dance floor. They came into Thailand with this ‘We invented clubbing, we know what we’re doing’ attitude, ignoring the locals. Huge dancefloor, no tables on it—completely alien for Thais. No one used the dancefloor except when huge DJs like Paul Oakenfold or DJ the Housecat came in. The huge events were fantastic.  I saw Oakenfold, this very famous DJ, and he was just standing on stage with his hands in the air. A press-play DJ—none of his equipment looked like it was plugged in. He was signing autographs, hugging girls, not really DJing. It was ridiculous. The place lasted one year and one month. It’s a massage parlor now.”

– Matt Hammond, marketing and PR director at Q Bar


2002


Café Democ

(corner of Democracy Monument, now moved to Silom Plaza Building)

“Deeper on Silom Soi 4 was the very first place that got me into electronic music—it was the first rave bar in Bangkok where no one cared about social status, just came to have fun. Then there was Café Democ in 1999. The original Café Democ was really genuine, from the venue’s charming old architecture to its everything-goes music policy taking in hip hop, drum n’ bass and trance. People simply came for the music—I think no one creates such a vibe anymore.”
– Mongkorn Timkul, aka DJ Dragon


Social Order Kicks Off:  
As part of his Social Order campaign, Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra orders the creation of three “entertainment zones.” In these zones, drinking and dancing is only allowed until 2 am: roughly Silom, Sukhumvit, and Ratchada. Outside of these zones, dancing is illegal and closing times are 1 am. The implementation of his rules would take a couple more years, with things getting really strict by the mid-2000s.


Bed Supperclub

Long-standing nightclub and restaurant Bed Supperclub will close its doors August 31, 2013, after operating for nearly 11 years. The iconic venue was famous for its bold architecture (a kind of cylinder on stilts), its constant efforts to bring in big name DJs and edgy artistic performances which took place during dinner while guests reclined on white beds.

After the club’s lease expired, the landlord did allow it to stay “until further notice.” But given the uncertainty of the situation, Bed Supperclub was unwilling to perform the renovations it felt the club needed to stay competitive, renovations creative director Sanya Souvanna Phouma says would have amounted to a B30 million investment. Meanwhile, new openings such as Above Eleven, Levels and extensions to Q Bar, made Bed Supperclub appear increasingly static.
“I’m very, very sad,” says Sanya about closing. “But honestly, Soi 11 has changed. The experience isn’t nice. You have to walk past guys drinking out of vans to get here. When we moved in, the soi was all houses with gardens. There was nothing except Q Bar. Even if we contributed to changing the soi, it’s just not what we’re about anymore.”

Divided into two sections, one purely used as a nightclub, the other hosting dinners and performances, Bed Supperclub is a totally unique proposition, one with no real equivalent in Bangkok. Recently, diners sprawled on the club’s massive bed-like sofas were treated to an intimate concert where Gene Kasidit sang in furs, flirtatiously worked the crowd with a gin tonic in hand, and ultimately collapsed for her finale in a red couch that had been set in the middle of the room.
“I don’t think there’s a single greatest moment for me,” says Sanya. “There are so many. The Laurent Garnier set where he turned all the lights on full-blast for 10 minutes, and everyone had their hands in the air the whole time. Billy Cobham, one of the greatest jazz artists for me. And there was this dinner where we had performance artists take all the leftovers, mix them in a giant vat, and make these perfectly packaged little samples for people to take back home. One diner was so offended, he asked for a refund.”

Bed Supperclub would have turned 11 years old six days after its Aug 31 farewell party. “We’re proud of having put Bangkok on the map in terms of clubbing, food and culture. We want to maintain the brand and our DNA and hold on to that for the next one,” Sanya says. (More about Sanya in his First Person interview, page 37)
 


2003


Age Restrictions: The Ministry of Interior imposes new age restrictions for attendees at clubs, from 18 to over 20 years old.


Santika

(Ekkamai)

Santika was another club that was really hot and full seven days a week. The club focused on hip-hop with what some described as a Thai version of Eminem performing each night. After completing some major renovations, however, Santika seemed to lose its aura. It became a hangout for freelancers, tourists and guys who went there with their mia noi. The club came to a tragic end when a fire on New Year’s Day 2009 killed 60 people.


2004


Closing Hours:  The Ministry of Interior begins the year by enforcing Thaksin’s new closing hours for venues. Places registered as restaurants must close no later than midnight, while clubs have one additional hour, up to 1am.


Kluen Sak

(Lang Suan)

“It was cute and charming because it was a small place where everyone who partied there easily got to know one another. These friendships have stuck with me to this day. I remember going there after class, arriving before the owners and going home after them too. I got to know all the waiters and would even have an after-party meal with them. You just can’t find that atmosphere these days. The first version of Kluen Sak, on Sukhumvit Soi 24, was not a gay bar as it later turned out to be when it moved to Lang Suan.”
– Thanonrat Panthongprasert, business owner


2006s


Astra

(RCA, it became 808, then LED)

 

“I would often play at Astra, which had a similar vibe to Café Democ. It’s not that it wasn’t good, but with a bigger space, you never quite got the same vibe. It was great when a big international DJ came to perform, but normal nights could be very quiet.”
– Mongkorn Timkul aka DJ Dragon


2008


Smoking Ban: The Ministry of Public Heath Thailand officially bans smoking indoors at all clubs and restaurants. Venues with outdoor sections must designate smoking and non-smoking zones.


Rain Dogs

(Soi Phraya Phiren)

“Unironically ramshackle, life-threateningly chic, Rain Dogs was an unlikely bar in an unlikely location. Set in a random cul-de-sac adjacent to a highway, Rain Dogs was essentially where mo lam monthly shindig Paradise Bangkok began to take shape (back when they were still handing out a shot of ya dong to confused punters). This was where the bartender let you whip up your own drinks (only because he didn’t know how to make anything other than vodka and soda), and Maft Sai was DJing near a dried-up swamp filled with vicious mosquitos. It was where Bangkok’s crème de la crème of freaks and misfits could truly call home.”
– Chanun Poomsawai, freelance writer


Curve, Jet and Sode Samo

(Ekkamai)

“I was working as a freelance marketer at Hype Bar (now Ice Bar) on Thonglor, but I would sneak away to chill around at Sode Samo most of the time. The place was epic. So many memories. A lot of it was down to the vibe of the old house. It may have been the first in the area to be turned into a club. It was like drinking at your friend’s place where you didn’t need to get all dressed up—and you could be as crazy as you want!”
–Kannathakorn Rattanawenawatee, digital planner


After Nung Len revived the live music scene in the area, a number of other similar venues sprung up. Curve quickly became the place to go for live gigs from rock luminaries like Nuvo and J-Jetrin, while Jet Bar (now Sonic Ekkamai) hosted its own resident bands. Sode Samo had perhaps the most character, transforming an old house into a club (not a chill bar like others) with a focus on retro tunes. It was very hot there for a few years in the mid-2000s. The techno room to the left after the entrance was for a while Bangkok’s best in the genre, even though they had to close at 2am, customary around Ekkamai/Thongor.


Still standing

70s Bar

(12 years)

“My friends and I usually hung out at 70s bar in Langsuan, long before it turned into a gay bar. It was hot and happening at that time, back in 2004. We went since it was not so popular­—then the place was exploding. Tables needed to be booked a week in advance, which was unusual back then. The bar was a small two-story place without much in the way of decor but it attracted lots of people with its good selection of 70s music and great crowd of young professionals. They had both live bands and DJs. There was nothing fancy about the drinks, every table would just have Black Label, which you would offer to any new friends you made that night—that’s how we increased our circle of friends so rapidly! Other places sprung up in the area, too, since 70s Bar couldn’t handle the crowd.”
– Vanviva Bhumibhanit, civil servant

Nung Len and Escobar

(8 years)

“In Thonglor-Ekkamai, Song Salueng led the live band movement, which saw more and more imitators pop up—however, it was a generally short life cycle. Nung Len and Escobar, which exist to this day, arrived as Song Salueng was in decline, quickly becoming the top venues for Thonglor-Ekkamai party people. At Nung Len, the daily live bands would draw a packed crowd on weekdays and weekends alike. Then Escobar arrived, taking in spillover from Nung Len, but with more of a focus on hip hop and electro rather than cover bands.”
– Wanitsada Kumnungkit,  guest service supervisor

DJ Station

(20 years)

“Actually, I only really became addicted to Silom Soi 2 these past couple of years, but have heard about how great the place was for basically all my life. I think the reason Silom soi 2 is so popular and has been so for so long is it’s the only Soi filled entirely with gay bars meaning you can go barhopping as if they were all owned by the same owner. Silom Soi 2 is also where the saying gay gam poo [muscled gay] was invented and we always say yak kin poo tong pai soi 2 [go to soi 2 if you need some crab].”
– Achirawut Techawong, Business Owner

Q Bar

(13 years)

“I had a Q Bar in Saigon and the government threw me out of the country. I guess they weren’t happy an American had a club in the national theater. They never let me back in, so I eventually decided to open a Q Bar here. I had a friend, Andrew Clark, who was in advertising who helped me. I’d looked at Singapore and Hong Kong but way back then Bangkok only had beer gardens, hotel bars, go-go bars and hiso Thai bars. People didn’t know much about alcohol and music. We did like the music at Tapas, but we didn’t like how small it was and the drinks. So we decided to do our own club and really train the staff about alcohol. We were excited to make it look like a club in New York. We wanted people to focus on the inside. We had the most vodkas—no one else had that—and DJs. I have so many great memories, it was great having Ice T there, who hung out in the bar for a week. I even had my wedding reception at Q Bar.”
– David Jacobson, Q Bar founder & partner

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We put nine sparkling water brands to a blind taste test.

1.) Gerolsteiner B79/750 ml (Germany) (BK Pick)

Level of Fizziness:
Gerolsteiner tastes pretty awesome. Nicely balanced, the fizz isn’t overpowering and there’s a pleasant balance of minerals. It could go very well with whisky, too.
Verdict: Goes best with meals.

2.) San Benedetto B66/500 ml (Italy)

Level of Fizziness:
Quite a light and clean fizz and a more neutral taste than others. Some might think it a bit bland, but it’s still quite refreshing. Pretty good for wining and dining.
Verdict: Almost.

3.) Valdimeti B32/500 ml (Italy)

Level of Fizziness:
Smells and tastes like a soda bottle has been left opened in a refrigerator for months. Strangely acidic.
Verdict: Stale soda.

4.) Voss B85/375ml (Norway)

Level of Fizziness: H
Yeah, the bottle’s pretty stylish, but it can’t make up for its gently bubbling, medicinal-tasting contents.
Verdict: Like taking some aspirin.

5.) Badoit B56/330 ml (France)

Level of Fizziness:
Flat-tasting with no real flavor to speak of. It’s neither refreshing nor lively.
Verdict: Needs more personality.

6.) Apollinaris B51/330 ml (Germany)

Level of Fizziness:
Quite sweet and powerful at first, with the largest bubbles of the lot, but this doesn’t last long, as it leaves an unpleasant aftertaste.
Verdict: Sweet and weak.

7.) Perrier B52/330ml (France) (runner up)

Level of Fizziness:
Nicely crisp and soda-like. Being super fizzy, it’s the kind of drink that could actually clean your palate if you’re eating something greasy. We also love its neutral flavor—perfect for when you’re really thirsty and works well with a slice of lemon (or a splash of Sangsom).
Verdict: Total refreshment.

8.) Mont Fleur B45/300 ml (Thailand) (yuck!)

Level of Fizziness:
We have to admit we didn’t feel entirely comfortable drinking this one due to the metallic smell upon opening. The taste isn’t any better, either—it’s as if there’s a high concentration of iron in it.  
Verdict: Better to stay dry.

9.) San Pellegrino B49/500 ml (Italy)

Level of Fizziness:
This famous brand has an unobtrusive, neutral flavor and aroma that makes it a pretty good companion for a meal. Thirst-quenching, too.
Verdict: Nice and clean.
 

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