Across the Chao Phraya River next to Siriraj Hospital, Wang Lang is well-known for its many little sois cramped with shops and stalls. It’s also famous for its sheer density of food stalls, extremely popular among locals and students from Thammasat’s Tha Prachan campus. Here we round up our favorites.

1. Namtok Sida

112/5-6 Soi Wang Lang, Arun Amarin Rd., 02-412-7180. Open 9am-7pm
In operation for some 40 years now, this little Isaan restaurant is a team effort between an older uncle, who waits tables, and an auntie who makes somtam at a station near the front. The specialties here are the tender and flavorful grilled chicken (B90 for half, B180 for whole) and the sueah rong hai (strips of grilled beef brisket, B50). Other Isaan classics are also very good here, such as the grilled pork neck and the somtam (both B50). Be warned that Namtok Sida packs in the customers, particularly around lunchtime and on the weekend.

2. Tee Yai

Behind Wiwatpesad Pharmacy, Soi Wang Lang, 02-411-0275, 081-344-5842. Open 8am-7pm
Walk past the Family Mart on your right and keep walking down this narrow alley until you see a couple of red signs signalling you’re at Tee Yai. This pad Thai and hoi thod place has been around since 1967. The hoi thod (fried oysters with egg, B45) has just the right texture—crispy-edged and not too gooey, not too oily. Tee Yai is also known for its pad Thai. The fresh shrimp pad Thai (B45) has a great flavor of tamarind and a nice, not-too-soft texture of noodles, even though it’s only topped with two fresh shrimps.

3. POh Pia Sod Jao Kao Siriraj

Soi Wang Lang, Prannok Rd. 087-084-5510. Open Mon-Sat 6am-4pm
Literally 10 steps from Tee Yai, further into the alleyway, to the left of KFC, is a stall with a green sign selling poh pia sod. The stall, comprised of three tables, is over 30 years old—hence the name “Poh Pia Sod Jao Kao Siriraj” which translates into “Old Fresh Spring Rolls of Siriraj.” The rolls (B30) are stuffed with Chinese sausage, tofu, bean sprouts, and cucumber. It is served with a sweet and sour brown sauce made of Japanese apricot and topped with crabmeat and egg. It tastes even better with the prik nam som (chili and vinegar) provided.

4. Moo Tod Chao Wang

Opposite Siriraj Hospital, in front of TMB bank. 085-351-4777, 087-594-2466. Open Mon-Sat 9am-6pm
What is most noticeable about the Moo-tod Chao Wang stall is not the big sign posted in front, it is the large, jovial owner’s voice persuading passersby to try out the moo tod. In a nice twist from the usual crispy skewered options, this comes with a savory, full-flavored sauce slathered onto the soft pieces of pork. The owner says the secret to the good taste is the fact that he changes the cooking oil daily. B35 per 100g.

5. Wang Lang Bakery

113 Soi Wang Lang Plaza, Arun Amarin Rd., 02-866-1649. Open 8am-7pm
Known for its many flavors of bread, Wang Lang Bakery has a loyal following of customers who buy in bulk to take home. Out front, below the huge sign bearing the shop’s name, there are rows of bread with different toppings and fillings stacked on top of each other. Beyond that is a mini factory where staff are busy baking away. The bestsellers are the moo yong (dried shredded pork) bread and the raisin bread. The bread itself is sweet and super soft. Each loaf is B40.

6. Kanom Tung-taek Patim

Opposite Siriraj Hospital, in front of Kasikorn Bank, 085-937-1193, 085-110-0467. Open Mon-Sun 9am-8pm
The queue of buyers gathered around the stall makes it hard to miss. They are not only buying because of the reasonable price (B7-10 per piece), but also for the fantastic taste of the old-school tung taek (crepe pancake with filling). The fillings available are coconut, corn, foi thong (sweet egg yolk threads), steamed custard, and raisin, with foi thong being the most popular.

N.I.C. NAIL SALON

3/F, Times Square Building, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-250-0322/-3. Open Mon-Sat 9:30am-6:30pm.www.nicnail.com
Open since 1991, this long-standing nail salon features nail sculpting and lengthening with gel or acrylic nails, manicure and pedicure spa service, as well as hand and foot masks with prices ranging from B300 for a 30-minute shoulder massage to B4,000 for a full-set of gel artificials. Try their new anti-aging hand treatments for B600 or heal the sole with a paraffin foot mask at B900.

GRANDE NAIL-THE NAIL RESORT

13 Sukhumvit Soi 63, 02-714-1015/-6. Open daily 10am-6:30pm. www.grandenail.com
You had best make a reservation, as this beautiful retreat for fingertips and toes has its regulars. Set in a converted house with lush, pebbled gardens and inviting interior, this “nail resort” features a glasshouse-like room to the side that offers a view of a beautiful garden with a running fountain. Savor the tranquility while you sit back in the specially designed chairs. Prices range from B100 to B5,000. Nail extensions start at B1,900. B200 for basic color paint.

TENTEN NAIL SALON

2/F TenTen bldg., 593/2 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-261-3832/-5. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 9am-7pm.
Also housing a hair salon, the place’s main feature is the US-imported Crystal Pipe System nail spa chairs worth a cool B240,000 each and designed for ultimate hygiene. TenTen uses OPI products, imported from the US. The painting is done in a separate room with its own ventilation system. Full manicures are B500, or spend B900 for manicure and pedicure. For a complete OPI manicure and pedicure which includes a mask treatment, count B1,800.

Sathira-Dhammasathan

The place: Set on a seven-acre property in an environment conducive to meditation, this center offers weekend-long retreats.
When: Registration begins 2-4pm on Fri, and the program ends at 4pm on Sun
How: For those who are planning to stay overnight, register and send in the registration documents at least one week before the program starts. The documents are available on their website. After the registration period ends (at 4pm), the program starts off with a yoga meditation session. The next day, you wake up at 4am for your other sessions. If you don’t want to stay overnight, registration is not required, you can just show up at 9am on Sat or Sun.
The ajarn: Mae Chee Sansanee Sthirasuta
24/5 Soi Watcharapol, Ramindra Rd. 02-510-6697, 02-510-4765. www.sdsweb.org.

Wat Mahathat (Section 5)

The place: A meditation center within the temple. English translators available.
When: There are three sessions daily: 7-10am, 1-4pm and 6-8pm
How: For day sessions, just show up. If you’re staying overnight, bring an ID card and a set of white clothes. Sessions start at 6:30am.
The ajarns: Ajarn Phramaha Suphap Khemarangsi (head of Section Five), Ajarn Maha Sawai Nanaviro, Ajarn Phramaha Boonchit Nanasangvaro, with other experienced monks and laypeople assisting them.
Maharaj Rd., Tha Prachan, 02-222-6011

Wat Pathumwanaram Ratchaworawihan

The place: A royal temple located right in the heart of Bangkok, between Siam Paragon and Central World.
When: 7am-9pm daily
How: Just show up.
The ajarns: The abbot, the Venerable Phra Rajpipatanatorn (Thavorn Chittathavaro), and other senior monks. Phra Rajpipatanatorn, a meditation master and teacher, has given dhamma talks on television, radio and the internet, and has published many dhamma journals and books.
969, Rama 1 Rd., Pathumwan (between Paragon and Central World), 02-255-2271. BTS Siam.

Wat Dhamma Mongkol (Samathi Viriyanuparb Center)

The place: Located beside the Dhamma Mongkol Temple, just beyond the craziness of downtown Sukhumvit, this meditation center was built specifically to accommodate practitioners, so car parks and air-conditioned rooms are thoughtfully provided.
When: 9am-4pm every Sun
How: Just show up. A more advanced session, which will require you to stay overnight, is only available for those who have already done the first day-to-day session. The advanced program is available once a month (to be announced by the center). For that program, registration starts from 4-7pm on Friday with morning wake-up calls at 5am. Call for reservation at 02-741-7822.
The ajarns: The abbot, Phra Dhamma Mongkol Yarn (Luang Poh Viriyung), and other experienced monks.
132 Mooban Rungsiya, Soi Punnavitee 20, Sukhumvit 101, Bang Jak, Phra Kanong. 02-311-3903. www.dhammamongkol.com.

Wat Sanam Nai

The place: A very natural peaceful setting in its original environment.
When: Registration happens every day, before 4pm.
How: First-time practitioners must be there before 9am or 1pm to practice for the real meditation program (two practice sessions; 9-10:30am and 1-2:30pm). Make sure you dress properly (white, no sleeveless shirts, no shorts). Once you’ve passed the practice session, you’re ready for the overnight program. Bring ID, a blanket and a small overnight bag. Wake up call at 3:30am.
The ajarns: Various teachers following the path of Luang Poh Teean’s “self-awareness” method.
27, Bang Kruai, Nonthaburi. 02-883-7251. www.watsanamnai.org.

Meditation Retreat 101

- All meditation centers are free of charge. Donations are accepted but not solicited.
- All classes are in Thai only, except for Wat Mahathat.
- Proper dress is usually required, just like when you go to the temple: no shorts, no sleeveless shirts. For overnight stays, it’s also advisable to wear white or at least plain colors.
- Manage your expectations. You’re not going to reach nirvana in one session.

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How does being Thai affect your design?
Being Thai has no effect on our designs actually. Our products have distinctive quality and character. We’re asked by our customers often if our products are really Thai made and the answer always makes them go wow.

How do you think Thai fashion customers have changed their perception toward Thai designer brands?
I think it’s getting better than before. There are a lot of Thai designers that are accepted worldwide. Each brand has their own concept and distinctive design, so there is now more customer awareness.

What should we expect from your next collection?
We’re starting our customization service in July, and there will be more professional looks coming up at the end of this year.

How does being Thai affect your design?
Each designer is rooted in a different culture. We draw differently, see differently and the time, culture and environment we grow up with affects how we create things. Pink in Thailand is possibly different from pink in Japan. What I mean is the Thainess has already been buried in our mind and soul, so our design obviously reflects our Thainess too.

How do you think Thai fashion customers have changed their perception toward Thai designer brands?
We’ve been receiving much more attention. Most of the brands are becoming more distinctive and fresh ideas seem to pop up every day, not to mention how the cutting quality has been improved. Projects like the Bangkok Fashion Society (BFS) or Bangkok International Fashion Week (BIFW) also help Thai brands gain more awareness and attention from the customers.

What should we expect from your autumn/winter collection?
We went out on the Columbus Cruise for summer, and so we’re continuing our journey to the forest for autumn/winter. The main story will revolve around a caravan, hunting and camping in the wild.

BK: How long have you been selling fried pork?
Boy: About a year. I was a messenger for a company in Thong Lor before I decided to start helping my aunt sell fried pork. But the stall has been around for almost six years.

BK: Was it a hard decision to quit your job?
Boy: Not at all. It’s a family business and it’s fun because I get to talk to customers. I like jobs where I can talk to people. I persuade passersby to try my fried pork by talking to them in a friendly manner.

BK: What’s your daily routine like?
Boy: I sell fried pork every day except on Sundays, from 5am-6pm. We have Mondays off every two weeks. Weekdays are busier than Saturdays, though. Our customers are all ages from teeangers to people in their 60s. There are celebrities too, like DJ Chao Chao and Tong Tong Mokjok.

BK: Have you ever tried fried pork from other vendors?
Boy: No. But there are many vendors that have tried to make fried pork like ours. I’m confident in our fried pork, though, because each day I am able to sell 90 to 100 kilos [1 kilo is B340]. What’s special about Moo Tod Chao Wang is that the pork is soft and tasty. My family now has 16 branches, including Silom and Klongsan Pier.

BK: Are your stalls affected by the economy?
Boy: Yes. When the price of pork increased, I had to raise the prices a bit. I got fewer customers but I can still keep selling constantly. The palm oil is also expensive at B60 a bottle.

BK: Do you have any other dreams?
Boy: Like everyone, I want a good social status and good well-being for my family. If I have enough money I would expand this business and have more branches. I would also have new stalls under my own name and set it up in busy areas.

BK: If you were not selling fried pork, what would you be doing? Do you think you will be doing this forever?
Boy: I would go back to my previous job. I only came to help my aunt because there were not enough people. This is a family business and I think I should keep doing this until the next generation can take care of themselves. Interview by Sasinipa Wasantapruek and Aimmarin Siritantitam