According to the Mayans, the world is due to end this December, which gives you 12 months to enjoy the very best dishes Bangkok’s streets and sois have to offer. Here we share our favorites, randomly listed from 1 to 100.

1.) Platoo pad krapao at Soei
2.) Guay Jub at Guay Jub Nai Aoun
3.)Bok-kia at Bok-kia Thadindang
4.) Bamee ped at Mandarin
5.) Guay jub yuan at Dang
6.) Ta go at Maliwan Kanom Thai
7.) Kanom pang sang ka ya at Pang Yaa Ari
8.) Nuea kwang gata ron at Tang Jua Lee
9.) Ped mo din at Buay Pochana
10.) Suki haeng at Suki Elvis
11.) Khao mun kai Singapore at Boon Tong Kiat
12.) Ice cream kati at Nattaporn Ice Cream
13.) Guay tiew moo krob at Haa Bai Tao
14.) Khao niew moon at Maewaree
15.) Guay tiew kua gai at Chonticha
16.) Eggplant fries at Giew Jeen
17.) Pla muek pad prik gluea at Tong Taa
18.) Guay tiew nuea at Gate Ocha
19.) Khao mun gai at Mongkol Wattana
20.) Guay tiew yam bok at Krob Krueng
21.) Giew goong naam at Jaak Kee
22.) Fried roti at Roti Poh Chang
23.) Guay tiew kua gai at Guay tiew kua gai Yaowarat
24.) Teen gai at Khao Tom OT
25.) Guay tiew nuea at Rod Ded

26.) Raad naa at Raad Naa 40 Pee
27.) Gang som tai at Samui
28.) Congee at Joke Prince
29.) Mee krob at Mee Krob Jeen Lee
30.) Moo Tod at Khao Niew Moo St. Gabriel
31.) Guay tiew kua gai at Nai Seng
32.) Kanompang sangkaya at Nom Joe
33.) Moo tod at Jae Jong
34.) Khao pad poo at Ko Yee
35.) Bamee poo at Sawang
36.) Ped palo at Chua Kim Heng
37.) Khao mok gai at Aisa Rot Dee
38.) Guay tiew lord at Guay Tiew Lord
39.) Laad naa at Jae Fai
40.) Guay tiew ped at Xia
41.) Pad see ew at Nay Lao
42.) Yen ta fo at Yen Ta Fo Ko Du
43.) Hoy tod at Nay Mong
44.) Khao tom at Khao Tom Prung
45.) Tao tung at Tao Tung
46.) Kanompang ping at Pang Yaowarat
47.) Guay tiew nuea at Mit Pochana
48.) Gui chai at Jae Toi
49.) Guay tiew nuea at Gao Lao Nuea Toon
50.) Khao soi at Khao Soi Chiang Mai

51.) Gai baan yang khao suan kwang at Paa Nuek
52.) Tom yum pung kai plachon naa at Manaowaan
53 Ice cream boran at Lung Chuan
54.) Pang sib at Khun Kob
55.) Kanom waan at Cheng Zim Ei
56.) Puek hima at Jae Nee
57.) Guay tiew nuea toon at Wattana Panich
58.) Woon ped at Thanun
59.) Baa bin maprao namhom at Kanom Baa Bin Maprao Namhom Sampran
60.) Ped toon fuk manao dong at Por Krua Tuen Yod Nuk Toon
61.) Pork knuckle spring rolls at Pork Knuckle Spring Rolls
62.) Giam ee nam prik pao at Jae Chung
63.) Kanom chan at Waan Dumrong
64.) Guay tiew reua at Toi
65.) Kanom jeen hai lum at Suthathip
66.) Lord chong Singapore at Lord Chong Singapore
67.) Goong ob woonsen at Ae Seafood
68.) Guay tiew tom yum at Jae Bua
69.) Look chin ping at Look Chin Anamai
70.) Kanom bueng ay Kanom Bueng Werng Nakorn Kasem (Yaowarat)
71.) Kanom jeen at Kanom Jeen Banglumpoo
72.) Moo tod ay Moo tord chao wang
73.) Khao niew moon at Pa Lek Pa Yai
74.) Guay tiew moo sub gradook on at Guay Tiew Moo Sub Gradook On Boran
75.) Sunnork gata ron at Ko Khun Ponyang Kum

76.) Ped yang at Jibkee
77.) Yum poo dong at Jae Liab
78.) Pla krapong tod rad prik at Chairode
79.) Guay tiew neua at Wandee
80.) Suki at Suki Ruen Pet
81.) Guay tiew pak mo at Pee Kay
82.) Nue pad nummun hoy kai dib at Tai Heng Pochana
83.) Gao lao at Iam Pochana
84.) Kai tod at Jae Kee
85.) Seafood porridge at Viroon Ice Cream
86.) Ped toon ya jeen at Ped Toon Ya Jeen Rod Chao Wang
87.) Moo yang kati sod at Pepper Don Mueng Moo Yang Kati Sod
88.) Guay tiew tom yum goong namkon at Pee or
89.) Bamee kai at Lung Chuey
90.) Bua loy kai kem at Bua Loy Kai Kem
91.) Khao mok nuea at Ahmad Rotdee
92.) Guay tiew moo at Rung Rueng
93.) Kanom tung taek at Pa Tim
94.) Pagrim kaitao at Jia Chai
95.) Moo Satay at Jirawat Pattakarn
96.) Yen ta fo at Yen Ta Fo Wat Kaek
97.) Pla yang at  Praram 9 Kaiyang
98.) Jim joom at Jim Joom Ladya
99.) Nam nueng at Nong Kai
100.) Nuea yang at Lum Duan Nuea Yang


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Blew all your cash on cocktails and club covers? Luckily there’s more to the neighborhood’s exciting food scene than the hip and pricey. Here is our guide to its classic, even legendary, cheap eats.


You need build up some pre-club energy, but don’t want to get your hair all smokey at those tam sang stalls that are everywhere on Thong Lor. Consider Niyom Pochana (125 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-3911517. Open daily 4pm-12am) for a wide variety of standards, even if they aren’t always that cheap. Get the real-deal poo pad pong kari (yellow crab curry, count B1,000 for a big crab) or the tom yam kung mae nam (tom yam with river prawns, B600). Less pricey but equally delicious is their moo satay (B80 for small). The place is situated in an old shophouse and is perpetually packed with local families, so do come early. Further up is the Vietnamese Nam Nueng (400 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-9575. Open daily 8am-10pm). Try their recommended dishes like the guay jub yuan (Vietnamese noodles, B60) and gung pun aoi (sugar cane wrapped with minced prawns, B100 for small).


So you’re done partying, you’re all out of cash and you need a late-night eat. Paikiew (081-826-9352. Open daily 12pm-5pm, 6pm-midnight) is located in front of Family Mart, Thonglor Soi 17, and attracts lots of people like you, so you can sometimes have a long wait. But it’s worth it for their tangy roasted duck which comes in a bamee ped (noodle soup with slices of duck, B40). Or, if it’s really late, you can go to the famed 55 Pochana at the beginning of Soi Thong Lor (1087-1093 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-391-2021. Open daily 5pm-3am). The must-orders are the or-suan (oyster omelette, B150) or dok kajon pad kai (stir-fried flowers with egg, B80). Be warned, though, the service can sometimes be a little gruff. But if you’re drunk and hungry, you won’t care. Just a few steps away is the hidden treasure Khao Tom Prung (1083 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-391-8433. Open Tue-Sun 4.30pm-10.30pm), with its diversity of toppings. A quality khao tom pla (rice soup with fish) dish is only B80. It’s fresh and tastes homemade. If you’re a real fish fan, there are also fish eggs and fresh fish maw, but for those, you have to show up before 7:30pm or call ahead to reserve.

Old Classics

It’s so hot and trendy, it’s hard to remember that Thong Lor has its army of classic cateries that folks flock to from all parts of the city. Our favorite among them is Hoy Tod Chao Lay (25 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 085-128-3996. Open daily 9am-9pm). They do hoy tod (crispy oyster omelet, B60), or-suan (B100), and pad Thai (B80) and are very generous with portions. Further up, on the same side, is the legendary Mandarin (729/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-391-4062. Open daily 9.30am-6pm). A dish of khao naa ped or bamee ped costs you only B55, and the crispy skin on the roast duck is pretty delectable, but weekends do get crazy. And who can not love Khao Mun Kai Boon Tong Kiat (440/5 in front of Thonglor Soi 16, 02-390-2508. Open daily 10am-10pm). Their khao mun kai (B65) comes with lovely, fatty rice and strong sauces. Finally, for dessert, there’s Maewaree (1 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-392-4304. Open 24/7, khao niew only available 5am-11pm), whose vast mango displays take up half the sidewalk and where you can order khao niew moon (sticky rice with coconut milk) with chunks of sweet mango for B90. (Sometimes they do sneak in the seed, though.)


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A street food journey through the now hip and up-and-coming neighborhood.

Tai Panich

9 Paholyothin 7, Ari Soi 1, 084-753-6162, Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm
After turning left at Phahonyothin Soi 7 (aka Ari), Tai Panich is a few shops into Ari Soi 1. One look at all the packed tables and all the pictures the owner has taken with celeb shows like Na-Nake and it’s obvious that the popular choice here is kao moo dang moo krob [red pork and crispy pork with rice] served with hot gourd soup (B40). The moo daeng is above average, but we especially love the crispy moo krob which has been fried to perfection. Other popular dishes are the yentafo and steamed chicken noodles (B40 each). The soup of the yentafo is a bit too sweet (we know some people love that) but the fish balls are very fresh and show little hint of being over-adulterated with flour.

Guay Tiew Ped Ari

2/2 Ari Soi 1, 085-338-6177. Open daily 10am-3pm
Offering only guay tiew ped (duck noodles), the shop looks like it’s been there forever and looks charmingly old. A bowl costs only B30 (B40 for takeaway) which is cheaper than other shops in the neighborhood. The soup tastes just right, not too salty, while the duck has been well steamed without making it too chewy. Be warned that unknown duck insides are also included and there’s only a tiny amount of veggies to be seen. A plate of duck costs B80 if you’d like to have it with rice.

Maliwan Kanom Thai

Beginning of Ari Soi 1, opposite Bodily Wax salon. Open daily 7am-3pm
For over 30 years, Maliwan Kanom Thai has been making fresh Thai desserts, running out by the end of lunchtime every day. They don’t accept phone orders so you better show up early and prepare for a short wait. The kow niew dum krati (black sticky rice with coconut milk, B15) is heavenly yummy, though the best sellers here are the kanom chan (layered rice flour and coconut milk snack, B15) which come in three colors: purple, brown and green. A box of look choob (bean paste filled miniatures) costs a bit more (B60) but the taste and the blend is just first-rate, without being too sweet.

Som Tam Loong Yom

End of connecting sois between Ari Soi 1 and 2, 087-685-2213. Open Mon-Sat 11am-9pm
One of the legendary somtam places in Ari, Som Tum Loong Yom is not only popular among the office workers around the area, but plenty of expats come in for an Isaan lunch feast as well. The B30 somtam pu plara and somtam Korat taste authentic, and their huge bowl of tasty tom saeb (Thai spicy soup with pork ribs and mushroom) is a mere B50. What can’t be missed here is the B60 scrumptious grilled beef, served with the spicy jim jaew sauce.

Roti Kow Wang

Ari Soi 1, 087-123-4194.
If you stroll along Ari Soi 1, you’ll come across this small cart selling roti. Choose between a B15 ordinary roti or B25 for one with extra egg or banana, and B30 for a mataba. The original thick and soft roti is nice but the extra crispy one is super. The owner makes the crust extra crispy and not overly-done, which tastes perfectly well with the sweetened milk and lots of sugar on top.


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Hop off BTS Surasak for tasty Thai snacks in the Sathorn district

1.) Kanom Bung Yuwan

Everybody’s lining up to get a bite of this classic Thai sweet (B20 for 9) at a spot called Kanom Bueng Ma Joi, located just outside of the hospital. They also sell kanom pung yuwan sai kai, a delicious Thai-style crepe with bean sprouts and colorful flakes of coconut called kanom foi thong.

2.) Hoi Tod

This stand right on the corner of St. Louis Soi 1 fries up a mean oyster omelet, with flour and string beans (B30). They say that their best seller is their basic pad Thai (B30) and that they can cook it fast, a key point to consider when you’re picking it up after work. Open 3pm-9pm

3.) Somtam

Every variation on everyone’s favorite dish can be found within a 20-foot walk from the corner of St. Louis Soi 1. From 6:30am-6pm, these two sisters pound up somtam Thai (B30), somtam khai kem (B35), and somtam Lao (B25), among other delights. When you order, they’ll urge you to get a piece of grilled chicken (B20) and Isaan-style mushroom soup (B30) to go with the spicy salad—and you really should.

4.) Meat Skewers

Walk down a little further, and just outside of the St. Louis Hospital gates is a guy that grills just about every type of street meat you can shake a stick at: naem (sour sausage), chicken, saigrok (sausage), pork and beef are all B10 a stick and ready to grab and go.

5.) Yam Pladuk Foo

Across the streets from the gates St. Louis University gates is a little restaurant that offers a roof over your head while they serve their specialty yam pladuk foo (sweet and sour mango and catfish salad, B50). The crunchy fish, dipped in a sweet sauce to balance out the saltiness goes well with a dish of moo yang (B40).

6.) Taap Saep

Deeper into the soi, is a quaint restaurant with a white roof. Inside, they serve a couple of great Isaan meat salads. Their taap saep (spicy Isaan-style pork, B45) has just the right balance between spiciness and sourness—and you can ask them to make it to your taste. Also worth trying is their tom saep kadook gaew, a spicy soup dish that goes well with their pork salad (B40).

7.) Kai Yeo Mah Kra Pao Gop

On the next soi, St. Louis soi 2, you’ll find an outdoor cafeteria-like area. Make sure you head to Lom Poh, a restaurant in the very back corner. Their spicy stir-fry with basil and hundred-year eggs is firm favorite (B45). The eggs are cooked in batter with lime leaves, leaving you stuffed and satisfied.


Getting There. Just get off at BTS Surasak and take exit 3.
When to Go. The soi is at its busiest from 8-11am and 5-8pm.


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Memorial and buses aside, the Victory Monument area is best known for its many food stalls, all within walking distance from the BTS.


1.) Toi Gway Tiew Reua

Ratchawithi Soi 18, behind Wat Makok, 081-619-1925, 087-045-0073. Open 8:30am-5:30pm
At the very end of Ratchawithi Soi 18, there is a temple and a canal, next to which you’ll find this large restaurant selling boat noodles. Toi Gway Tiew Reua has been in operation for some 50 years, dating back to when boat noodles were actually still sold on boats for 50 satang. The menu includes namtok and tom yam broths, but the owner recommends the namtok moo (pork boat noodles). All are just B15 per bowl or B30 if you want to take them away in a bag. The soup of the namtok is rich and tasty with no need for flavoring. The restaurant is bustling at noon on weekdays, with customers ranging from office workers to doctors and nurses from the nearby Rajavithi Hospital, so plan accordingly.

2.) Kao Moo Daeng Pathom Lert Rod

Opposite Top Charoen eyeglasses shop, end of Soi Rangnam, 02-246-5482, 089-115-1012. Open 8.30am-2.30pm
This little stall is famous on this soi for its khao moo daeng (rice topped with roasted pork, crispy pork, Chinese sausage, hard boiled egg and gravy). Just make sure you get here early though, as they almost always sell out well in advance of their scheduled closing time. The gravy here is not a plain sweet sauce like other stalls—it’s a bit more complex and tastes slightly spicy. The stall also offers krapaw pla (fish maw soup) as a side dish. Everything is B35.

3.) Kanom Wan Rangnam

Outside Top Charoen eyeglasses shop, end of Soi Rangnam, 086-668-6925. Open Tue-Sun 7am-4pm
On Soi Rangnam, this is the go to place for Thai desserts. It’s been in this spot for almost 30 years and many loyal customers are willing to travel across town to buy some desserts to take home. There are many choices, but the owner and customers recommend the khao nieow moon (sweet sticky rice), which can be topped with durian, egg custard or mango. Other desserts include ruam mitr, bua loy (sweet noodles and balls in coconut milk), tua paep (steamed crepe with beans), and kanom mor gaeng (steamed cake). Everything here is B15-B20.

4.) Khao Man Gai Jae Wa

465/7 Ratchathewi Rd., Phaya Thai, opposite Center One, 02-640-9891. Open 9am-9pm
The khao man gai (Hainanese chicken rice) at Jae Wa restaurant has been around for only 15 years (a relative newbie in these parts), but there are already numerous press clippings hung on the wall including a page from a Japanese magazine and a Perb-Pisadarn certificate from the famous critic Mae Choy Nang Ram. One full dish comes with khao man gai and offal such as blood jelly and liver. The chicken meat is soft, the steamed rice is not too oily or sticky, and the sweet chili sauce isn’t too spicy. A regular dish is B35, while the special one is B50.

5.) Gway Jaab Nam Sai

Soi Rangnam, beside Sri Ayuthaya School, 02-642-5531. Open Mon-Sat 7am-5pm
This gway-jaab nam sai (noodles in broth) restaurant has been around for over 10 years. The gway jaab soup has a peppery spiciness and a rich garlicky aroma. Not for the faint of heart, a full order of gway jaab here includes pork maw, entrails, liver, heart, tongue, crispy pork and pork pieces. Unlike other places, the taste of the pork is sweetened by some pre-marinating. Each bowl is B35.


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Travel to the end of the line for these top stalls around Hua Lampong—even if you don’t have to catch a train.


1. Laap Paak

1 Rong Muang Road, Gate 3 MRT Hua Lamphong, 02-613-9661. Open 10:30am–9pm.
If you’re going to cheat on your diet regime, then Laap Paak, with its cozy backyard-style atmosphere, situated just outside Exit 3 of MRT Hua Lamphong has just the dish to make it worthwhile: goong grabuang. A mince of chicken and shrimp deep-fried to a thick, crunchy pancake, the version at Laap Paak does an even more sinful mayo garnish, along with a bed of crispy-fried bai makrood (B95). They also do a hearty tom saep gradook moo (isaan-style pork rip spicy soup, B99), that is a great complement.


336/3 Rama IV Rd., 02-236-1772. MRT Hua Lamphong. There are also branches in Emporium and Siam Paragon. Open Tue–Sun 5-11pm.
Ignore the Hong Kong Noodles sign outside MRT Hua Lamphong Exit 3, and walk across the street to the more unassuming, family-run and pretty famous noodle shop. You’ll know you’re at the right place because Sawang is always packed with people waiting for their freshly pulled noodles drenched in a delicious broth that’s not too sweet and not too sour (B100). If you’re feeling extra hungry, get them to throw in some fresh crab for an added B100. They also specialize in Cantonese delights like kanom jeeb. There are other branches now, but the Hua Lamphong location is where it all started.

3. Cheng Simey

Noi Market on Khao Lam Rd., 081-620-1788. Open 7pm–11pm.
Down Khao Lam Road, opposite Wat Tri Mitr Witthayaram, is a street vendor that serves 10 different kinds of ruam mitt nam gatthi—another family-run business that keeps Hua Lamphong foodies happy. The classic myriad beans, water chestnuts and gelatins in all shapes and colors go for B35 a bowl—cheap enough to try out a couple different flavors in one sitting.

4. Supakochana

Gate 3 MRT Hua Lamphong, 1 Rong Muang Rd. Open daily 24hrs.
If you’re just hungry for some simple Thai dishes you could find on your soi, like som tam and khao pad, check out this small tam sang place that serves all the essentials. Their kapow gai is a local favorite (spicy stir-fried chicken with basil, B39). The small restaurant is perfect for a quick fix if you’re stuck waiting for a train, but don’t go out of your way to eat here.

5. Pa Lek Pa Yai

Maitri Chit Rd., Wongwien 22, 303. 084-935-2935. Open daily 9am–8pm, during Feb-Jul.
Named after two aunties, this little shop has been in the mango biz for 72 years. Their kao niew mamuang (B70-B80 depending on the price of mangoes) is worth the trek if you’re feeling adventurous. Take a walk across the green bridge to the left of Exit 1 of MRT Hua Lamphong and walk down Maitri Chit until you hit a roundabout. The little shop is on the left, but unfortunately it’s only open during the mango season, from February until the beginning of July, so you better go today.

6. Simalogot

80-82 Soi Sukon 1. 081-567-9006. Open Daily 9am–8pm.
Another family-run business that serves one thing and one thing only: bountiful plates of juicy pork, smothered in a delicious pork sauce (B42). Cross the magical green bridge (see above), hang a left and look out for Soi Sukon 1. Walk down the soi for a little bit and try to resist the temptation of the other stalls on this street.

7.Chong Gee

Soi Sukon 1. Open daily 9am–8 pm.
If you’re feeling extra carnivorous, the store right beside Simalogot serves pork and liver satay. What’s the difference between these and the sticks you can get anywhere else? Their dipping sauce is a cultural hybrid, they say, a combination of Thai and Chinese flavors, with lots of peanuts (B60 for 10 sticks).


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Navigate the busy sois and narrow walkways by Siriraj Hospital for some of the best street food our city has to offer. By Aimmarin Siritantitam and Sasinipa Wasantapruek

Across the Chao Phraya River next to Siriraj Hospital, Wang Lang is well-known for its many little sois cramped with shops and stalls. It’s also famous for its sheer density of food stalls, extremely popular among locals and students from Thammasat’s Tha Prachan campus. Here we round up our favorites.

1. Namtok Sida

112/5-6 Soi Wang Lang, Arun Amarin Rd., 02-412-7180. Open 9am-7pm
In operation for some 40 years now, this little Isaan restaurant is a team effort between an older uncle, who waits tables, and an auntie who makes somtam at a station near the front. The specialties here are the tender and flavorful grilled chicken (B90 for half, B180 for whole) and the sueah rong hai (strips of grilled beef brisket, B50). Other Isaan classics are also very good here, such as the grilled pork neck and the somtam (both B50). Be warned that Namtok Sida packs in the customers, particularly around lunchtime and on the weekend.

2. Tee Yai

Behind Wiwatpesad Pharmacy, Soi Wang Lang, 02-411-0275, 081-344-5842. Open 8am-7pm
Walk past the Family Mart on your right and keep walking down this narrow alley until you see a couple of red signs signalling you’re at Tee Yai. This pad Thai and hoi thod place has been around since 1967. The hoi thod (fried oysters with egg, B45) has just the right texture—crispy-edged and not too gooey, not too oily. Tee Yai is also known for its pad Thai. The fresh shrimp pad Thai (B45) has a great flavor of tamarind and a nice, not-too-soft texture of noodles, even though it’s only topped with two fresh shrimps.

3. POh Pia Sod Jao Kao Siriraj

Soi Wang Lang, Prannok Rd. 087-084-5510. Open Mon-Sat 6am-4pm
Literally 10 steps from Tee Yai, further into the alleyway, to the left of KFC, is a stall with a green sign selling poh pia sod. The stall, comprised of three tables, is over 30 years old—hence the name “Poh Pia Sod Jao Kao Siriraj” which translates into “Old Fresh Spring Rolls of Siriraj.” The rolls (B30) are stuffed with Chinese sausage, tofu, bean sprouts, and cucumber. It is served with a sweet and sour brown sauce made of Japanese apricot and topped with crabmeat and egg. It tastes even better with the prik nam som (chili and vinegar) provided.

4. Moo Tod Chao Wang

Opposite Siriraj Hospital, in front of TMB bank. 085-351-4777, 087-594-2466. Open Mon-Sat 9am-6pm
What is most noticeable about the Moo-tod Chao Wang stall is not the big sign posted in front, it is the large, jovial owner’s voice persuading passersby to try out the moo tod. In a nice twist from the usual crispy skewered options, this comes with a savory, full-flavored sauce slathered onto the soft pieces of pork. The owner says the secret to the good taste is the fact that he changes the cooking oil daily. B35 per 100g.

5. Wang Lang Bakery

113 Soi Wang Lang Plaza, Arun Amarin Rd., 02-866-1649. Open 8am-7pm
Known for its many flavors of bread, Wang Lang Bakery has a loyal following of customers who buy in bulk to take home. Out front, below the huge sign bearing the shop’s name, there are rows of bread with different toppings and fillings stacked on top of each other. Beyond that is a mini factory where staff are busy baking away. The bestsellers are the moo yong (dried shredded pork) bread and the raisin bread. The bread itself is sweet and super soft. Each loaf is B40.

6. Kanom Tung-taek Patim

Opposite Siriraj Hospital, in front of Kasikorn Bank, 085-937-1193, 085-110-0467. Open Mon-Sun 9am-8pm
The queue of buyers gathered around the stall makes it hard to miss. They are not only buying because of the reasonable price (B7-10 per piece), but also for the fantastic taste of the old-school tung taek (crepe pancake with filling). The fillings available are coconut, corn, foi thong (sweet egg yolk threads), steamed custard, and raisin, with foi thong being the most popular.


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Despite the palm oil price crisis, Nuanla-or Sripila, 38, a fried banana street vendor on Convent Road, opposite Saint Joseph Convent, keeps a positive outlook on life and her regular customers on a carb-loaded sugar high with her crispy snacks.

Where are you from originally?
I’m from Roi-ed but I’ve lived in Bangkok for ten years already and consider myself a Bangkokian. I now live with four relatives in a rented house on Soi Phiphat. I work and provide for my father and mother who still live in Roi-ed.

Have you always sold kluay khak (fried bananas)?
No. I sold socks first but the business wasn’t going as well as I would have liked, and I thought food might be more lucrative. So I switched to bananas three years ago. I use one of my friend’s recipes and bought the cart secondhand. I chose selling snacks simply because they’re easy to sell. Almost everybody eats kluay khak. It’s been going quite well actually.

What’s your daily routine?
Every day I wake up at 5am to prepare the ingredients: flour, bananas, sweet potatoes, and taro. I come here at 7am and start cooking. But when school is in session, I have to come here after 8am because there’s traffic from students coming to school, so the police asks us to come later. Almost every day, I’m sold out by around 3-4pm. But if there are not many people on the street, I won’t fry all of my bananas because the remainder can be kept for another day. Every couple of days, I go by tuk-tuk to buy my ingredients at Khlong Toei Market.

How has the palm oil price crisis affected you?
I have had to raise my prices. The price hike has resulted in fewer customers, too. In fact, oil price isn’t the only factor. Coconut, coconut cream, sugar and flour are more expensive as well. I used to sell seven pieces for 10 baht but now it’s four pieces for 10 baht. I know it’s almost 50% less but the ingredient prices have doubled.

Do you have any complaints about Bangkok?
Well, I don’t think there’s anything specific I want to change, but I’m worried that the permission for street stands might be revoked in the near future. We all have our names registered at the district office, yet the authority is pretty strict. The sanitation unit comes quite often to check on the cleanliness and to make sure we use proper containers for our food. The municipal officials come a lot too, but after a recent receipt scandal, I haven’t seen any. Sometimes we have to pay them a little something like a “cleaning fee,” but I don’t want to talk about it. It’s sensitive.

Have you ever dreamed of selling anything or doing something else?
No. I’m satisfied. I’m self-employed. I can work on my own and I enjoy my freedom. Interview by Kanyanun Sanglaw, Nuchanat Prathumsuwan


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No noodle dish is as colorful as the famous yen ta fo with its pinkish-red pickled bean curd. Like many other Thai dishes, it draws inspiration from China and can be found served in roadside stalls and small shops and restaurants throughout Bangkok. Here are our five favorite places to enjoy this distinctive dish.


8 Pan Rd., Silom Rd., 02-236-4393. Open Mon-Sat 10am-4pm
Stroll past Wat Kaek (Sri Mahamariamman Temple) and its marigold garland stalls and you will find an old restaurant on Pan Rd., named simply Yen Ta Fo Wat Kaek. The shop looks charming, with its wooden tables and chairs just begging you take a seat. Their yen ta fo (B30-40) is simply delicious, so there’s no need for extra seasoning. The noodles and the squid are soft and tender. Even the swamp cabbage is just the right consistency. Other items worth trying are the well-portioned meatballs and fried tofu. They also sell stewed pork knuckle with rice (B30-40), fermented rice flour noodles with chicken curry and nam-yaa, salad kaek and spring rolls (B25 each).

Yen Ta Fo JC

Sala Daeng Soi 2, behind Silom Complex, 081-919-1233 or 081-814-9547. Open Mon-Sat 6-9:20am, 10am-1:30pm
A landmark for St. Joseph Convent students and office types alike, Yen Ta Fo JC, located behind Central Silom Complex, serves Silom’s most demanding yen ta fo lovers. Ignore the cook rudely belting out orders to the staff, the queue for a table and the parking lot backdrop, and slurp up some amazing crispy squid in a slightly spicy broth. This shop is strictly dedicated to yen ta fo, but you do have the option of choosing your noodles. If you think you might be hungry even after your first bowl (B40-45), make sure to order two at the same time, as the wait time here is quite long. Affordable prices and fantastic noodles make it worth it.

Ton Yen Ta Fo Kung Tod

89/3 Lad Phrao Soi 71, 081-3157-311. Open daily 8:30am-4:30pm. Closed every 2nd and 4nd Wednesday of the month
Already on its second generation of ownership, this heritage yen ta fo shop has been serving Lad Phrao’s residents for nine years. The owner runs a tight ship and all the ingredients are laid out systematically for diners to view, as their bowls are prepared. This may be the most tidy noodle kitchen we’ve ever seen. The yen ta fo is served with crispy fried shrimp and toasted taro (B35-40), a yummy combination you won’t find anywhere else.


Between Sukhumvit 55-57, BTS Thong Lo, 02-391-0043. Open daily 7am-4pm
Walking towards Soi Thong Lor from the BTS station, you’ll spot this reputable and pocket-friendly establishment. This shop isn’t the best yen ta fo we’ve had, but it sure doesn’t skimp on the ingredients. You’ll receive more than a fair share of vegetables, chunky fish balls and fried tofu in every bowl. Prices start from B40 to 50. The friendly owner proudly claims that he has been running this same shop for over ten years and the friendly service makes up for the slightly average taste.

Yen Ta Fo Pa Sena

Entrance of Soi Senaniwej 105, Senanikhom Rd., 084-6233-330. Open daily 8am-4pm
Positioned at the mouth of Soi Senaniwej 105, this shop has been a hit for over a decade. The décor is barebones as can be, but what makes it unique is the special daily fresh homemade orange sticky yen ta fo sauce served with their signature dish. They not only serve original yen ta fo, but also yen ta fo tom yam manow, which is a bit more tart and spicy thanks to the lemony tom yam flavor. Priced B30-40, the dishes can be complemented by snacking on the delicious fried shrimp balls delivered daily by the owner’s relative. By Rattikarn Suwithayaphan, Nuchanat Prathumsuwan and Sritala Dhanasarnsombut


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Chula may be demolishing old buildings left, right and center but shopowners (and our taste buds) won’t let go.

Suan Luang and Sam Yam Markets have now been razed to the ground, as part of Chula’s development plans. Long-time food vendors have lost their original spots and, now that parking has gone, a good chunk of clientele. Still, many famous vendors are persevering, and here we round up some long-time favorites.

1) Pheng Pochana

Chula Soi 20, Suang Luang Market. Open daily 3-11pm, 081-899-2173
Just across the street from the demolished market, Pheng Pochana has long been famed for its gway tiew khua kai, which they do with several variations ranging from just chicken and pickled squid (B30) to taro (B40). They have the technique of dry-frying the noodles and lightly charring them down to an exact science, plus their pickled squid are chewy without being too chewy and have just the right amount of fishy flavor. We also like their preparation of the egg, which is lightly scrambled and set on top of the noodles, not mixed in. Watch out for the inexplicably mean manager lady, though.

2) Seng Sim Ee

Chula Soi 5, Suan Luang Market, 02-214-0612.
Open daily noon-midnight

Around for several generations, Sing Sem Ee has been the go-to nam khaeng sai (Chinese shaved ice and syrup dessert) place for Chula kids and neighborhood enthusiasts. While the recent changes to the area have meant a slight dip in customers, the place is still full to the brim most nights, necessitating table-sharing. If you’re anything like us, cover your head, duck and run past the bees swarming the dazzling display of over twenty sweet toppings out front to reach the safety of the back room. Here you can enjoy the range of rice flour balls, pickled plums, glass noodles, balls of ice and more. Prices for a bowl range from B20-40.

3) Paw Pang Ping

168, Chula Soi 5, Suan Luang Market, 084-911-8896.
Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm

This famous grilled bread (khanom pang ping) cart had been sat outside Sam Yan until the demolition. Now it has moved across the street, conveniently next to Sing Sem Ee, where it now has to stay open longer to break even, due to the diminished customer base. The shopfront grill operation lures you in with its range of toppings, including more pricey ones like coconut paste (B30) and ice shavings (B30). Most range from B15-18, though, and they also do Thai iced tea and related drinks. If you’re lucky, you might also spot the cute cat in the dining room.

4) Rad Na kiang empire

Corner of Chula sois 20 and 5, 089-771-8131.
Open daily 11:30am-11pm

At the corner of the two sois, diagonally across from a bua loy cart and flanked by moo daeng stalls, is a little shophouse that specializes in pad see ew and rad na (B30-40). Not much more to say, except that the special, marinated kiang recipe is delicious, especially the rad na broth which is slightly gelatinous and porky, and that the outdoor seating on the corner gives a really nice, wide angle vantage point for people watching in the evening.

5) Khao Moo Daeng Nakhon Pathom

206, Chula Soi 50, 02-215-4354. Open 5am-3:30pm
Many of the food vendors from the now-demolished Sam Yan Market have been moved to this little soi, flanked on both sides by two-story shophouses. This moo daeng (red pork) place proudly says on its sign “the old face of Sam Yan” and dishes up a very generous B30 plate of rice with moo daeng, moo krob (crispy, three-layered pork) and Chinese sausage. Tea and ice are free—that’s old school hospitality.

6) Khao Man Kai Sam Yan

234, Chula Soi 50, 089-007-4585. Open daily 7am-5:30pm
Further down the street is the new home of a forty-year-old khao man kai (Haianese chicken rice) stall from Sam Yan Market. We like the cute little shophouse with its pale green walls, the long mirror and the odd combination of old wooden booths on one side and metal tables with plastic stools on the other. In addition to khao man kai (B30-40), they also do a mean gway tiew ped (duck noodles, B30-40).


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