Suwannawatti

1116/4 Nakornchaisri Rd., Ratchawat, 02-241-4879. Open Wed-Mon 8am-2pm
A.K.A. Guay Tiew Nuea Naa Sapha, the place was originally a zaleng (pushcart) selling beef noodles in front of the parliament some 30 years ago. The guay niew nuea (B30) here are often described as the best in town. The soup is indeed succulent, aromatic and bursting with beefy flavors, while the big chunks of beef are tender and toothsome.

Orawan

Nakornchaisri Rd., Sri Yan, 086-973-0756, 080-973-5772. Open daily 4-10pm
Sat in front of Soi Chantima Theatre, Orawan might seem even grungier than your average stall, but we guarantee a dish of pad Thai (B30) here will make you forget any worries about hygiene. The daughter of the owner told us that her secret lies in the top-notch ingredients they use, such as real tamarind sauce. It shows. The result is a powerful flavor with pitch-perfect balance.

Nai Ma Yod Pak

775 Nakornchaisri Rd., Ratchawat 02-241-1860. Open Mon-Fri 11am-2pm; 5pm-12:30am
The yod pak rad na (B50) here contains only young kale leaves and they peel off the skin of the kale, which is pretty darn impressive for a basic rad na (noodles in thick gravy) shophouse. Nai Ma has been in the business for more than 50 years and now his son continues with the same recipe—with no added MSG (for those who care). Another thing we like is the delicious, tender and juicy pork. We suggest you opt for the kao lao pad see ew (stir-fried pork and kale with soy sauce, B60) and khao pad prik kana (stir-fried pork and kale with chili served with rice, B60), both equally impressive dishes.

Khao Tom Sri Yan

103 Nakornchaisri Rd., Sri Yan, 02-241-1897. Open daily 5pm-1am
If the charming and nostalgic look of this shophouse cannot attract you to walk in, their food certainly will. The place focuses on khao tom (boiled rice) and a brief list of made-to-order dishes that ranges from kha moo palo (stewed pork knuckle, B40) and pad pak (stir-fried vegetables, B40) to pla chon tom khem (steamed catfish in soy sauce, B50). The food might be old school, but what matters is the great taste and the freshness of the vegetables.

Den Sri Yan

In front of S&P Sri Yan, Nakornchaisri Rd., Sri Yan, 089-501-5610. Open daily 5pm-midnight
A few steps from Khao Tom Sri Yan, this stall attracts throngs queuing up for its guay tiew gai toon nam dang (noodles with steamed chicken in herbal soup). The most popular parts are the chicken legs and feet with mouth-watering, fall-off-the-bone meat. The broth is also luscious and that might explain the long waits you’ll have to put up with for a taste of perfection. Prices start from B35 for the chicken leg.

Look Chin Sri Yan

151/1 Nakornchaisri Rd., Sri Yan, 02-243-3537. Open daily 7am-4pm
It’s been here for over 40 years and you’ve probably already heard of it. Look Chin Sri Yan has never opened any branches so this is the only true place to get your meatball and noodles (B35) fix. The look chin here have a bouncy, meaty texture and a potent flavor that indicates very little flour goes into the mix. The clear broth is just as addictive, so that you’ll be tempted to drink from the bowl. Hot tip: do call ahead if you want to drop by in the afternoon as they run out of beef balls pretty early.

Hor Mok Mae Boonma

Near Sri Yan Soi 1, Sri Yan, 081-582-7345. Open Tue-Sun 8am-3pm
The friendly auntie of an owner tells us that she’s been selling hor mok (fishcakes) for some 20 years. With top quality catfish and clown featherback, prices are a bit of a steal at just B20 a piece. Expect generous chunks of fish without the fishy smell. All ingredients are fresh, including the coconut topping. Deep-fried catfish bones are available on Sun, but do call ahead if you plan to visit after 2pm.

Kanom Krok Kao Wang

Across from Ratchawat Market, Ratchawat, 081-916-0974, 02-241-3840, 02-591-5998. Open daily 5-11pm
Once you’re done with the savory highlights, treat your stomach right with some dessert, like kanom krok (coconut pudding). This stall is plastered with pictures telling of royal visits, hence the name Kao Wang (“Enter the Palace”). The kanom krok is very light, fresh and crunchy, while the coconut milk is so superb you may just gobble everything up instead of bringing some back to your office or family. Get the original flavor (28 pieces for B40) and avoid bagging the hot box so it doesn’t get soggy.

1.) Long Leng/Bae Siang Kung

Rama 4 Rd., Between Chula Soi 7 and 9, across from Sapanlueng Church, Bangkok, 02-611-6338. Open daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-11pm.
This place had been around for 70-80 years under the name of Be Siang Kung, but the second-generation owner has made it catchier, changing it to Long Leng (loud noises). Their fish balls (B3.50) are made with yellowtail fusilier, white fin wolf-herring, and mackerel—all homemade and with no flour added. The result is a fish ball that really tastes of fish with a bouncy texture; and the same goes for their shrimp balls (B3.50). Their fish wontons (B5) are just as exciting, with minced pork thrown in for richness. Fancy something crispy? Try fried swordfish skin (B20), or have it all with their yen ta fo (tofu noodles, B35-40), which is seasoned with ketchup instead of the normal pickled bean curd.

2.) Ros Dee Ded

Rama 4 Rd., Chula Soi 9., Bangkok, 02-611-9826. Open daily 10am-10pm.
After inheriting his father’s business on Rama 4, the son opened another branch at Chula Soi 9. It’s all about the meat here, with options ranging from rice to noodles and hotpot. The rice topped with pork tongue stew (B40) is simply delicious: the pork tongue is well-done and the sauce is delicate. The signature noodles (B40-60) are braised pork and braised beef, sweetened by meat bone soup. The meat is thinly sliced and so perfectly scalded that it practically melts in your mouth. If you want to cook it your own way, then hotpot it is. Get ready for all the premium meat cuts—sirloin, flank, shank, rib eye, chuck, etc. The tip from the owner is to adjust the pot’s temperature by slowly mixing in the soup with the meat in a separate bowl. This way you’ll experience a softer and sweeter meat. Do note that you have to call ahead an hour for the shop to prepare the premium meat.

3.) Kao Ka Moo Lert Ros

Rama 4 Rd., in front of Hong Chai Rice Ltd. Bangkok. Open daily 4pm-midnight.
The menu sounds simple enough—rice topped with stewed pork leg—but we all know how difficult it is to find the perfect kao ka moo. The pork skin is on the fatty side, but that’s why it’s so delicious. The pork is slowly simmered in a brown soy sauce for a sweet, rich taste, and the pickled Chinese cabbage and vinegar make for a perfect balance of sour, sweet, and salty. And if the rice dish (B35-50) isn’t enough, just order an extra plate of it (B70).

4.) Kao-tom-pla Sa-pan-leung

506/2-3, Soi Pranakares, Rama 4 Rd., Bangkok, 084-727-8899. Open daily 5pm-10pm.
Don’t get confused by the big ‘Viroon Ice-cream’ sign in front of the shophouse since there is no hint of ice-cream anywhere nearby. This place is known for its fish boiled rice (B150) that comes with a flavorful sauce on the side. It may seem a little pricey for a bowl of soup, some rice, and some fish, but they make each dish separately, and serve only the freshest fish. No need to worry about scales or bones: just let the fish melt in your mouth—just like eating ice-cream.

5.) Jae Sri

Soi Pra Nakares, Rama 4 Rd., Bangkok, 081-927-7017. Open daily 6pm-10pm.
Jae Sri has been in the business for 30 years, and her secret, she says, is using only the top part of the water mimosa, making her Yum Pak-Krachade (B80, B100) the talk of the town. Apart from her renowned dish, we also recommend the boiled cockles (B100, B150). As for her marketing strategy, you can even find her on Facebook!

6.) Sangkaya Bread by Chai

506/1, Soi Pranakares, Rama 4 Rd., Bangkok, 089-893-5393. Open daily 6pm-midnight.
Warm bread with sangkaya and a hot glass of milk is about as close to a grandmother’s hug as food gets. And that’s exactly who Chai got his recipe from, serving his grandmother’s not-too-sweet, yet very fragrant, sangkaya (B30). And if his specialty doesn’t warm you up, his genuine smile will.

7.) Seng Sim Ee

Rama 4 Rd., Soi Pra Nakares. Bangkok. Open daily 4pm-midnight.
What better way to end your day than seng sim ee (hot and cold Chinese dessert)? It’s sweet but healthy so don’t hesitate to have it at night. A must is ginger syrup served with grains (B35-40) gingko seed and lotus roots. If these sound too organic, try the bean curd, rice flour balls, and glass noodles. 

Sor Boonprakob

Sor Boonprakob is a near-legendary shophouse in Bangrak that has been serving khao niew moon since Rama V’s reign. Story goes people used to queue up here long before the craze for sticky rice and mango. Their beautifully shiny sticky rice (B150 for a kg) manages to be fatty and creamy without being soggy or overly sweet.
In front of Charoenkrung Soi 44, Charoenkrung Rd., 02-235-3442. Open daily 5am-7pm

Maewaree

The vast piles of mango at Maewaree take up half the sidewalk, but it’s their sticky rice from Chiang Rai that really quickens our pulse. The perfectly cooked khao niew moon (B190 a kg) is soft and flavorful, thanks to the excellent coconut milk used here. This is probably our absolute favorite in town, for its texture (not too mushy) and perfect balance of flavors. Don’t forget to try their assorted toppings such as the smooth, fragrant sangkaya (B35) or the mixed option (pla hang and dried shrimp, B50).
1 Sukhumvit Soi 55 Thonglor, 02-392-4804. Open 24/7, khao niew moon only available 5am-11pm. www.maevaree.com

Kor Panich

The 80-year-old institution is a household name for its sweet sticky rice. The people at Kor Panich claim that the recipe has been taken from the royal kitchen where the owner’s wife’s mother used to work. And the standard they’ve been holding on to is that the sticky rice must be the popular khao niew kiew ngoo type, the coconuts must hail from Chumphon and the sugar from Kanchanaburi. Plain khao niew B160 per kilo, single portions with toppings B30.
431-433, Tanao Rd., 02-221-3554. Open Mon-Sat 7am-7pm

Luksao Kor Panich

Another member of the Kor Panich family, as the name suggests, this shophouse is owned by the daughter of the recipe’s owner at Kor Panich. After her mom passed away, she decided to open her own place and took the recipe with her. Both places are similar although the sticky rice (B160 a kg) is a bit more tender, and sweeter, here. It’s really a question of taste which one you prefer.
250/5 Samsen Rd., Tewet, 02-281-7838. Open daily 7:30am-8pm

Maliwan Kanom Thai

For over 30 years, Maliwan Kanom Thai has been making fresh Thai desserts. Popular for its ta go (Thai pudding topped with coconut) and kanom mun (tapioca mixed with flour and topped with young coconut), it also sells giant buckets of khao niew moon (B180 a kg).Their sticky rice is quite soggy, due to copious amounts of rich coconut. That’s not to our taste but it’s clearly popular as they often run out before lunch.
2/9, beginning of Ari Soi 1, 02-278-1179. Open daily 9am-3pm

Chor Sornkeaw

Once you’ve tried every sticky rice champ in town, you might want to give this colorful variety a shot (B160 a kg). Chor Sornkeaw stands out from the crowd thanks to its nine-color rice, depending on whether it has been sweetened with turmeric, rose, butterfly pea or pandanus. It’s not just about looks, though. This rice tends to be lighter, its flavors balancing themselves nicely with the coconut milk toppings. Chor Sornkeaw also serves its khao niew moon with a wider selection of fruits, such as longan, durian and lychee (B25-160).
23/500, Chok Chai 4 Soi 54, Lad Prao, 02-931-0000, 02-931-0005. Open daily 6am-9pm

EXPERT PICKS

Chawadee Nualkhair

Journalist, blogger and author of Bangkok’s Top 50 Street Food Stalls.
“I think the best khao niew moon is at Mae Nong Nut in Hua Hin. The rice is perfectly creamy yet still sticky, and the coconut milk is of such high quality. But if we’re talking Bangkok, I’ll go with everyone else and say you can’t go wrong with Maewaree.”

Daneeya Bunnag

Food blogger, host of food show Food & Health Gang and author of a soon to be published cook book.
“My favorites are the ones from Kor Panich and Mae Nong Nut opposite to Hua Hin market. For Kor Panich, I love its taste and its texture, because although it’s soft it’s not mushy and it’s not overly sweet. And since it’s been open for many decades, it has a real vintage charm to it.”

Nhoi chortip ouypornchaisakul

Chef at Parata Diamond.
“I just love the balance of the pandanus, coconut and sugar at A Mad Ros Dee (1217 Rama 9 Rd. Soi 39, 081-811-4601). The best part is that I can sense each individual rice grain in every bite and it stays that way no matter how long it sits there. I even snack on it when it’s a day old. I’m working on a sticky rice and mango dessert myself, but I’m happy to leave the ‘mooning’ technique to the masters.”

1.) Platoo pad krapao at Soei
2.) Guay Jub at Guay Jub Nai Aoun
3.)Bok-kia at Bok-kia Thadindang
4.) Bamee ped at Mandarin
5.) Guay jub yuan at Dang
6.) Ta go at Maliwan Kanom Thai
7.) Kanom pang sang ka ya at Pang Yaa Ari
8.) Nuea kwang gata ron at Tang Jua Lee
9.) Ped mo din at Buay Pochana
10.) Suki haeng at Suki Elvis
11.) Khao mun kai Singapore at Boon Tong Kiat
12.) Ice cream kati at Nattaporn Ice Cream
13.) Guay tiew moo krob at Haa Bai Tao
14.) Khao niew moon at Maewaree
15.) Guay tiew kua gai at Chonticha
16.) Eggplant fries at Giew Jeen
17.) Pla muek pad prik gluea at Tong Taa
18.) Guay tiew nuea at Gate Ocha
19.) Khao mun gai at Mongkol Wattana
20.) Guay tiew yam bok at Krob Krueng
21.) Giew goong naam at Jaak Kee
22.) Fried roti at Roti Poh Chang
23.) Guay tiew kua gai at Guay tiew kua gai Yaowarat
24.) Teen gai at Khao Tom OT
25.) Guay tiew nuea at Rod Ded
26.) Raad naa at Raad Naa 40 Pee
27.) Gang som tai at Samui
28.) Congee at Joke Prince
29.) Mee krob at Mee Krob Jeen Lee
30.) Moo Tod at Khao Niew Moo St. Gabriel
31.) Guay tiew kua gai at Nai Seng
32.) Kanompang sangkaya at Nom Joe
33.) Moo tod at Jae Jong
34.) Khao pad poo at Ko Yee
35.) Bamee poo at Sawang
36.) Ped palo at Chua Kim Heng
37.) Khao mok gai at Aisa Rot Dee
38.) Guay tiew lord at Guay Tiew Lord
39.) Laad naa at Jae Fai
40.) Guay tiew ped at Xia
41.) Pad see ew at Nay Lao
42.) Yen ta fo at Yen Ta Fo Ko Du
43.) Hoy tod at Nay Mong
44.) Khao tom at Khao Tom Prung
45.) Tao tung at Tao Tung
46.) Kanompang ping at Pang Yaowarat
47.) Guay tiew nuea at Mit Pochana
48.) Gui chai at Jae Toi
49.) Guay tiew nuea at Gao Lao Nuea Toon
50.) Khao soi at Khao Soi Chiang Mai
51.) Gai baan yang khao suan kwang at Paa Nuek
52.) Tom yum pung kai plachon naa at Manaowaan
53 Ice cream boran at Lung Chuan
54.) Pang sib at Khun Kob
55.) Kanom waan at Cheng Zim Ei
56.) Puek hima at Jae Nee
57.) Guay tiew nuea toon at Wattana Panich
58.) Woon ped at Thanun
59.) Baa bin maprao namhom at Kanom Baa Bin Maprao Namhom Sampran
60.) Ped toon fuk manao dong at Por Krua Tuen Yod Nuk Toon
61.) Pork knuckle spring rolls at Pork Knuckle Spring Rolls
62.) Giam ee nam prik pao at Jae Chung
63.) Kanom chan at Waan Dumrong
64.) Guay tiew reua at Toi
65.) Kanom jeen hai lum at Suthathip
66.) Lord chong Singapore at Lord Chong Singapore
67.) Goong ob woonsen at Ae Seafood
68.) Guay tiew tom yum at Jae Bua
69.) Look chin ping at Look Chin Anamai
70.) Kanom bueng ay Kanom Bueng Werng Nakorn Kasem (Yaowarat)
71.) Kanom jeen at Kanom Jeen Banglumpoo
72.) Moo tod ay Moo tord chao wang
73.) Khao niew moon at Pa Lek Pa Yai
74.) Guay tiew moo sub gradook on at Guay Tiew Moo Sub Gradook On Boran
75.) Sunnork gata ron at Ko Khun Ponyang Kum
76.) Ped yang at Jibkee
77.) Yum poo dong at Jae Liab
78.) Pla krapong tod rad prik at Chairode
79.) Guay tiew neua at Wandee
80.) Suki at Suki Ruen Pet
81.) Guay tiew pak mo at Pee Kay
82.) Nue pad nummun hoy kai dib at Tai Heng Pochana
83.) Gao lao at Iam Pochana
84.) Kai tod at Jae Kee
85.) Seafood porridge at Viroon Ice Cream
86.) Ped toon ya jeen at Ped Toon Ya Jeen Rod Chao Wang
87.) Moo yang kati sod at Pepper Don Mueng Moo Yang Kati Sod
88.) Guay tiew tom yum goong namkon at Pee or
89.) Bamee kai at Lung Chuey
90.) Bua loy kai kem at Bua Loy Kai Kem
91.) Khao mok nuea at Ahmad Rotdee
92.) Guay tiew moo at Rung Rueng
93.) Kanom tung taek at Pa Tim
94.) Pagrim kaitao at Jia Chai
95.) Moo Satay at Jirawat Pattakarn
96.) Yen ta fo at Yen Ta Fo Wat Kaek
97.) Pla yang at  Praram 9 Kaiyang
98.) Jim joom at Jim Joom Ladya
99.) Nam nueng at Nong Kai
100.) Nuea yang at Lum Duan Nuea Yang

Pre-Party

You need build up some pre-club energy, but don’t want to get your hair all smokey at those tam sang stalls that are everywhere on Thong Lor. Consider Niyom Pochana (125 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-3911517. Open daily 4pm-12am) for a wide variety of standards, even if they aren’t always that cheap. Get the real-deal poo pad pong kari (yellow crab curry, count B1,000 for a big crab) or the tom yam kung mae nam (tom yam with river prawns, B600). Less pricey but equally delicious is their moo satay (B80 for small). The place is situated in an old shophouse and is perpetually packed with local families, so do come early. Further up is the Vietnamese Nam Nueng (400 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-9575. Open daily 8am-10pm). Try their recommended dishes like the guay jub yuan (Vietnamese noodles, B60) and gung pun aoi (sugar cane wrapped with minced prawns, B100 for small).

post-Party

So you’re done partying, you’re all out of cash and you need a late-night eat. Paikiew (081-826-9352. Open daily 12pm-5pm, 6pm-midnight) is located in front of Family Mart, Thonglor Soi 17, and attracts lots of people like you, so you can sometimes have a long wait. But it’s worth it for their tangy roasted duck which comes in a bamee ped (noodle soup with slices of duck, B40). Or, if it’s really late, you can go to the famed 55 Pochana at the beginning of Soi Thong Lor (1087-1093 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-391-2021. Open daily 5pm-3am). The must-orders are the or-suan (oyster omelette, B150) or dok kajon pad kai (stir-fried flowers with egg, B80). Be warned, though, the service can sometimes be a little gruff. But if you’re drunk and hungry, you won’t care. Just a few steps away is the hidden treasure Khao Tom Prung (1083 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-391-8433. Open Tue-Sun 4.30pm-10.30pm), with its diversity of toppings. A quality khao tom pla (rice soup with fish) dish is only B80. It’s fresh and tastes homemade. If you’re a real fish fan, there are also fish eggs and fresh fish maw, but for those, you have to show up before 7:30pm or call ahead to reserve.

Old Classics

It’s so hot and trendy, it’s hard to remember that Thong Lor has its army of classic cateries that folks flock to from all parts of the city. Our favorite among them is Hoy Tod Chao Lay (25 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 085-128-3996. Open daily 9am-9pm). They do hoy tod (crispy oyster omelet, B60), or-suan (B100), and pad Thai (B80) and are very generous with portions. Further up, on the same side, is the legendary Mandarin (729/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-391-4062. Open daily 9.30am-6pm). A dish of khao naa ped or bamee ped costs you only B55, and the crispy skin on the roast duck is pretty delectable, but weekends do get crazy. And who can not love Khao Mun Kai Boon Tong Kiat (440/5 in front of Thonglor Soi 16, 02-390-2508. Open daily 10am-10pm). Their khao mun kai (B65) comes with lovely, fatty rice and strong sauces. Finally, for dessert, there’s Maewaree (1 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-392-4304. Open 24/7, khao niew only available 5am-11pm), whose vast mango displays take up half the sidewalk and where you can order khao niew moon (sticky rice with coconut milk) with chunks of sweet mango for B90. (Sometimes they do sneak in the seed, though.)

Tai Panich

9 Paholyothin 7, Ari Soi 1, 084-753-6162, Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm
After turning left at Phahonyothin Soi 7 (aka Ari), Tai Panich is a few shops into Ari Soi 1. One look at all the packed tables and all the pictures the owner has taken with celeb shows like Na-Nake and it’s obvious that the popular choice here is kao moo dang moo krob [red pork and crispy pork with rice] served with hot gourd soup (B40). The moo daeng is above average, but we especially love the crispy moo krob which has been fried to perfection. Other popular dishes are the yentafo and steamed chicken noodles (B40 each). The soup of the yentafo is a bit too sweet (we know some people love that) but the fish balls are very fresh and show little hint of being over-adulterated with flour.

Guay Tiew Ped Ari

2/2 Ari Soi 1, 085-338-6177. Open daily 10am-3pm
Offering only guay tiew ped (duck noodles), the shop looks like it’s been there forever and looks charmingly old. A bowl costs only B30 (B40 for takeaway) which is cheaper than other shops in the neighborhood. The soup tastes just right, not too salty, while the duck has been well steamed without making it too chewy. Be warned that unknown duck insides are also included and there’s only a tiny amount of veggies to be seen. A plate of duck costs B80 if you’d like to have it with rice.

Maliwan Kanom Thai

Beginning of Ari Soi 1, opposite Bodily Wax salon. Open daily 7am-3pm
For over 30 years, Maliwan Kanom Thai has been making fresh Thai desserts, running out by the end of lunchtime every day. They don’t accept phone orders so you better show up early and prepare for a short wait. The kow niew dum krati (black sticky rice with coconut milk, B15) is heavenly yummy, though the best sellers here are the kanom chan (layered rice flour and coconut milk snack, B15) which come in three colors: purple, brown and green. A box of look choob (bean paste filled miniatures) costs a bit more (B60) but the taste and the blend is just first-rate, without being too sweet.

Som Tam Loong Yom

End of connecting sois between Ari Soi 1 and 2, 087-685-2213. Open Mon-Sat 11am-9pm
One of the legendary somtam places in Ari, Som Tum Loong Yom is not only popular among the office workers around the area, but plenty of expats come in for an Isaan lunch feast as well. The B30 somtam pu plara and somtam Korat taste authentic, and their huge bowl of tasty tom saeb (Thai spicy soup with pork ribs and mushroom) is a mere B50. What can’t be missed here is the B60 scrumptious grilled beef, served with the spicy jim jaew sauce.

Roti Kow Wang

Ari Soi 1, 087-123-4194.
If you stroll along Ari Soi 1, you’ll come across this small cart selling roti. Choose between a B15 ordinary roti or B25 for one with extra egg or banana, and B30 for a mataba. The original thick and soft roti is nice but the extra crispy one is super. The owner makes the crust extra crispy and not overly-done, which tastes perfectly well with the sweetened milk and lots of sugar on top.

1.) Kanom Bung Yuwan

Everybody’s lining up to get a bite of this classic Thai sweet (B20 for 9) at a spot called Kanom Bueng Ma Joi, located just outside of the hospital. They also sell kanom pung yuwan sai kai, a delicious Thai-style crepe with bean sprouts and colorful flakes of coconut called kanom foi thong.

2.) Hoi Tod

This stand right on the corner of St. Louis Soi 1 fries up a mean oyster omelet, with flour and string beans (B30). They say that their best seller is their basic pad Thai (B30) and that they can cook it fast, a key point to consider when you’re picking it up after work. Open 3pm-9pm

3.) Somtam

Every variation on everyone’s favorite dish can be found within a 20-foot walk from the corner of St. Louis Soi 1. From 6:30am-6pm, these two sisters pound up somtam Thai (B30), somtam khai kem (B35), and somtam Lao (B25), among other delights. When you order, they’ll urge you to get a piece of grilled chicken (B20) and Isaan-style mushroom soup (B30) to go with the spicy salad—and you really should.

4.) Meat Skewers

Walk down a little further, and just outside of the St. Louis Hospital gates is a guy that grills just about every type of street meat you can shake a stick at: naem (sour sausage), chicken, saigrok (sausage), pork and beef are all B10 a stick and ready to grab and go.

5.) Yam Pladuk Foo

Across the streets from the gates St. Louis University gates is a little restaurant that offers a roof over your head while they serve their specialty yam pladuk foo (sweet and sour mango and catfish salad, B50). The crunchy fish, dipped in a sweet sauce to balance out the saltiness goes well with a dish of moo yang (B40).

6.) Taap Saep

Deeper into the soi, is a quaint restaurant with a white roof. Inside, they serve a couple of great Isaan meat salads. Their taap saep (spicy Isaan-style pork, B45) has just the right balance between spiciness and sourness—and you can ask them to make it to your taste. Also worth trying is their tom saep kadook gaew, a spicy soup dish that goes well with their pork salad (B40).

7.) Kai Yeo Mah Kra Pao Gop

On the next soi, St. Louis soi 2, you’ll find an outdoor cafeteria-like area. Make sure you head to Lom Poh, a restaurant in the very back corner. Their spicy stir-fry with basil and hundred-year eggs is firm favorite (B45). The eggs are cooked in batter with lime leaves, leaving you stuffed and satisfied.

Essentials

Getting There. Just get off at BTS Surasak and take exit 3.
When to Go. The soi is at its busiest from 8-11am and 5-8pm.

1.) Toi Gway Tiew Reua

Ratchawithi Soi 18, behind Wat Makok, 081-619-1925, 087-045-0073. Open 8:30am-5:30pm
At the very end of Ratchawithi Soi 18, there is a temple and a canal, next to which you’ll find this large restaurant selling boat noodles. Toi Gway Tiew Reua has been in operation for some 50 years, dating back to when boat noodles were actually still sold on boats for 50 satang. The menu includes namtok and tom yam broths, but the owner recommends the namtok moo (pork boat noodles). All are just B15 per bowl or B30 if you want to take them away in a bag. The soup of the namtok is rich and tasty with no need for flavoring. The restaurant is bustling at noon on weekdays, with customers ranging from office workers to doctors and nurses from the nearby Rajavithi Hospital, so plan accordingly.

2.) Kao Moo Daeng Pathom Lert Rod

Opposite Top Charoen eyeglasses shop, end of Soi Rangnam, 02-246-5482, 089-115-1012. Open 8.30am-2.30pm
This little stall is famous on this soi for its khao moo daeng (rice topped with roasted pork, crispy pork, Chinese sausage, hard boiled egg and gravy). Just make sure you get here early though, as they almost always sell out well in advance of their scheduled closing time. The gravy here is not a plain sweet sauce like other stalls—it’s a bit more complex and tastes slightly spicy. The stall also offers krapaw pla (fish maw soup) as a side dish. Everything is B35.

3.) Kanom Wan Rangnam

Outside Top Charoen eyeglasses shop, end of Soi Rangnam, 086-668-6925. Open Tue-Sun 7am-4pm
On Soi Rangnam, this is the go to place for Thai desserts. It’s been in this spot for almost 30 years and many loyal customers are willing to travel across town to buy some desserts to take home. There are many choices, but the owner and customers recommend the khao nieow moon (sweet sticky rice), which can be topped with durian, egg custard or mango. Other desserts include ruam mitr, bua loy (sweet noodles and balls in coconut milk), tua paep (steamed crepe with beans), and kanom mor gaeng (steamed cake). Everything here is B15-B20.

4.) Khao Man Gai Jae Wa

465/7 Ratchathewi Rd., Phaya Thai, opposite Center One, 02-640-9891. Open 9am-9pm
The khao man gai (Hainanese chicken rice) at Jae Wa restaurant has been around for only 15 years (a relative newbie in these parts), but there are already numerous press clippings hung on the wall including a page from a Japanese magazine and a Perb-Pisadarn certificate from the famous critic Mae Choy Nang Ram. One full dish comes with khao man gai and offal such as blood jelly and liver. The chicken meat is soft, the steamed rice is not too oily or sticky, and the sweet chili sauce isn’t too spicy. A regular dish is B35, while the special one is B50.

5.) Gway Jaab Nam Sai

Soi Rangnam, beside Sri Ayuthaya School, 02-642-5531. Open Mon-Sat 7am-5pm
This gway-jaab nam sai (noodles in broth) restaurant has been around for over 10 years. The gway jaab soup has a peppery spiciness and a rich garlicky aroma. Not for the faint of heart, a full order of gway jaab here includes pork maw, entrails, liver, heart, tongue, crispy pork and pork pieces. Unlike other places, the taste of the pork is sweetened by some pre-marinating. Each bowl is B35.

1. Laap Paak

1 Rong Muang Road, Gate 3 MRT Hua Lamphong, 02-613-9661. Open 10:30am–9pm.
If you’re going to cheat on your diet regime, then Laap Paak, with its cozy backyard-style atmosphere, situated just outside Exit 3 of MRT Hua Lamphong has just the dish to make it worthwhile: goong grabuang. A mince of chicken and shrimp deep-fried to a thick, crunchy pancake, the version at Laap Paak does an even more sinful mayo garnish, along with a bed of crispy-fried bai makrood (B95). They also do a hearty tom saep gradook moo (isaan-style pork rip spicy soup, B99), that is a great complement.

2.Sawang

336/3 Rama IV Rd., 02-236-1772. MRT Hua Lamphong. There are also branches in Emporium and Siam Paragon. Open Tue–Sun 5-11pm.
Ignore the Hong Kong Noodles sign outside MRT Hua Lamphong Exit 3, and walk across the street to the more unassuming, family-run and pretty famous noodle shop. You’ll know you’re at the right place because Sawang is always packed with people waiting for their freshly pulled noodles drenched in a delicious broth that’s not too sweet and not too sour (B100). If you’re feeling extra hungry, get them to throw in some fresh crab for an added B100. They also specialize in Cantonese delights like kanom jeeb. There are other branches now, but the Hua Lamphong location is where it all started.

3. Cheng Simey

Noi Market on Khao Lam Rd., 081-620-1788. Open 7pm–11pm.
Down Khao Lam Road, opposite Wat Tri Mitr Witthayaram, is a street vendor that serves 10 different kinds of ruam mitt nam gatthi—another family-run business that keeps Hua Lamphong foodies happy. The classic myriad beans, water chestnuts and gelatins in all shapes and colors go for B35 a bowl—cheap enough to try out a couple different flavors in one sitting.

4. Supakochana

Gate 3 MRT Hua Lamphong, 1 Rong Muang Rd. Open daily 24hrs.
If you’re just hungry for some simple Thai dishes you could find on your soi, like som tam and khao pad, check out this small tam sang place that serves all the essentials. Their kapow gai is a local favorite (spicy stir-fried chicken with basil, B39). The small restaurant is perfect for a quick fix if you’re stuck waiting for a train, but don’t go out of your way to eat here.

5. Pa Lek Pa Yai

Maitri Chit Rd., Wongwien 22, 303. 084-935-2935. Open daily 9am–8pm, during Feb-Jul.
Named after two aunties, this little shop has been in the mango biz for 72 years. Their kao niew mamuang (B70-B80 depending on the price of mangoes) is worth the trek if you’re feeling adventurous. Take a walk across the green bridge to the left of Exit 1 of MRT Hua Lamphong and walk down Maitri Chit until you hit a roundabout. The little shop is on the left, but unfortunately it’s only open during the mango season, from February until the beginning of July, so you better go today.

6. Simalogot

80-82 Soi Sukon 1. 081-567-9006. Open Daily 9am–8pm.
Another family-run business that serves one thing and one thing only: bountiful plates of juicy pork, smothered in a delicious pork sauce (B42). Cross the magical green bridge (see above), hang a left and look out for Soi Sukon 1. Walk down the soi for a little bit and try to resist the temptation of the other stalls on this street.

7.Chong Gee

Soi Sukon 1. Open daily 9am–8 pm.
If you’re feeling extra carnivorous, the store right beside Simalogot serves pork and liver satay. What’s the difference between these and the sticks you can get anywhere else? Their dipping sauce is a cultural hybrid, they say, a combination of Thai and Chinese flavors, with lots of peanuts (B60 for 10 sticks).

Across the Chao Phraya River next to Siriraj Hospital, Wang Lang is well-known for its many little sois cramped with shops and stalls. It’s also famous for its sheer density of food stalls, extremely popular among locals and students from Thammasat’s Tha Prachan campus. Here we round up our favorites.

1. Namtok Sida

112/5-6 Soi Wang Lang, Arun Amarin Rd., 02-412-7180. Open 9am-7pm
In operation for some 40 years now, this little Isaan restaurant is a team effort between an older uncle, who waits tables, and an auntie who makes somtam at a station near the front. The specialties here are the tender and flavorful grilled chicken (B90 for half, B180 for whole) and the sueah rong hai (strips of grilled beef brisket, B50). Other Isaan classics are also very good here, such as the grilled pork neck and the somtam (both B50). Be warned that Namtok Sida packs in the customers, particularly around lunchtime and on the weekend.

2. Tee Yai

Behind Wiwatpesad Pharmacy, Soi Wang Lang, 02-411-0275, 081-344-5842. Open 8am-7pm
Walk past the Family Mart on your right and keep walking down this narrow alley until you see a couple of red signs signalling you’re at Tee Yai. This pad Thai and hoi thod place has been around since 1967. The hoi thod (fried oysters with egg, B45) has just the right texture—crispy-edged and not too gooey, not too oily. Tee Yai is also known for its pad Thai. The fresh shrimp pad Thai (B45) has a great flavor of tamarind and a nice, not-too-soft texture of noodles, even though it’s only topped with two fresh shrimps.

3. POh Pia Sod Jao Kao Siriraj

Soi Wang Lang, Prannok Rd. 087-084-5510. Open Mon-Sat 6am-4pm
Literally 10 steps from Tee Yai, further into the alleyway, to the left of KFC, is a stall with a green sign selling poh pia sod. The stall, comprised of three tables, is over 30 years old—hence the name “Poh Pia Sod Jao Kao Siriraj” which translates into “Old Fresh Spring Rolls of Siriraj.” The rolls (B30) are stuffed with Chinese sausage, tofu, bean sprouts, and cucumber. It is served with a sweet and sour brown sauce made of Japanese apricot and topped with crabmeat and egg. It tastes even better with the prik nam som (chili and vinegar) provided.

4. Moo Tod Chao Wang

Opposite Siriraj Hospital, in front of TMB bank. 085-351-4777, 087-594-2466. Open Mon-Sat 9am-6pm
What is most noticeable about the Moo-tod Chao Wang stall is not the big sign posted in front, it is the large, jovial owner’s voice persuading passersby to try out the moo tod. In a nice twist from the usual crispy skewered options, this comes with a savory, full-flavored sauce slathered onto the soft pieces of pork. The owner says the secret to the good taste is the fact that he changes the cooking oil daily. B35 per 100g.

5. Wang Lang Bakery

113 Soi Wang Lang Plaza, Arun Amarin Rd., 02-866-1649. Open 8am-7pm
Known for its many flavors of bread, Wang Lang Bakery has a loyal following of customers who buy in bulk to take home. Out front, below the huge sign bearing the shop’s name, there are rows of bread with different toppings and fillings stacked on top of each other. Beyond that is a mini factory where staff are busy baking away. The bestsellers are the moo yong (dried shredded pork) bread and the raisin bread. The bread itself is sweet and super soft. Each loaf is B40.

6. Kanom Tung-taek Patim

Opposite Siriraj Hospital, in front of Kasikorn Bank, 085-937-1193, 085-110-0467. Open Mon-Sun 9am-8pm
The queue of buyers gathered around the stall makes it hard to miss. They are not only buying because of the reasonable price (B7-10 per piece), but also for the fantastic taste of the old-school tung taek (crepe pancake with filling). The fillings available are coconut, corn, foi thong (sweet egg yolk threads), steamed custard, and raisin, with foi thong being the most popular.