Memorial and buses aside, the Victory Monument area is best known for its many food stalls, all within walking distance from the BTS.


1.) Toi Gway Tiew Reua

Ratchawithi Soi 18, behind Wat Makok, 081-619-1925, 087-045-0073. Open 8:30am-5:30pm
At the very end of Ratchawithi Soi 18, there is a temple and a canal, next to which you’ll find this large restaurant selling boat noodles. Toi Gway Tiew Reua has been in operation for some 50 years, dating back to when boat noodles were actually still sold on boats for 50 satang. The menu includes namtok and tom yam broths, but the owner recommends the namtok moo (pork boat noodles). All are just B15 per bowl or B30 if you want to take them away in a bag. The soup of the namtok is rich and tasty with no need for flavoring. The restaurant is bustling at noon on weekdays, with customers ranging from office workers to doctors and nurses from the nearby Rajavithi Hospital, so plan accordingly.

2.) Kao Moo Daeng Pathom Lert Rod

Opposite Top Charoen eyeglasses shop, end of Soi Rangnam, 02-246-5482, 089-115-1012. Open 8.30am-2.30pm
This little stall is famous on this soi for its khao moo daeng (rice topped with roasted pork, crispy pork, Chinese sausage, hard boiled egg and gravy). Just make sure you get here early though, as they almost always sell out well in advance of their scheduled closing time. The gravy here is not a plain sweet sauce like other stalls—it’s a bit more complex and tastes slightly spicy. The stall also offers krapaw pla (fish maw soup) as a side dish. Everything is B35.

3.) Kanom Wan Rangnam

Outside Top Charoen eyeglasses shop, end of Soi Rangnam, 086-668-6925. Open Tue-Sun 7am-4pm
On Soi Rangnam, this is the go to place for Thai desserts. It’s been in this spot for almost 30 years and many loyal customers are willing to travel across town to buy some desserts to take home. There are many choices, but the owner and customers recommend the khao nieow moon (sweet sticky rice), which can be topped with durian, egg custard or mango. Other desserts include ruam mitr, bua loy (sweet noodles and balls in coconut milk), tua paep (steamed crepe with beans), and kanom mor gaeng (steamed cake). Everything here is B15-B20.

4.) Khao Man Gai Jae Wa

465/7 Ratchathewi Rd., Phaya Thai, opposite Center One, 02-640-9891. Open 9am-9pm
The khao man gai (Hainanese chicken rice) at Jae Wa restaurant has been around for only 15 years (a relative newbie in these parts), but there are already numerous press clippings hung on the wall including a page from a Japanese magazine and a Perb-Pisadarn certificate from the famous critic Mae Choy Nang Ram. One full dish comes with khao man gai and offal such as blood jelly and liver. The chicken meat is soft, the steamed rice is not too oily or sticky, and the sweet chili sauce isn’t too spicy. A regular dish is B35, while the special one is B50.

5.) Gway Jaab Nam Sai

Soi Rangnam, beside Sri Ayuthaya School, 02-642-5531. Open Mon-Sat 7am-5pm
This gway-jaab nam sai (noodles in broth) restaurant has been around for over 10 years. The gway jaab soup has a peppery spiciness and a rich garlicky aroma. Not for the faint of heart, a full order of gway jaab here includes pork maw, entrails, liver, heart, tongue, crispy pork and pork pieces. Unlike other places, the taste of the pork is sweetened by some pre-marinating. Each bowl is B35.


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