Visit Wang Lang for second-hand goods and traditional Thai food.

Wang Lang Bakery

Just follow the fragrant aroma and you’ll find this bakery packed with many kinds of bread and pizza. The smell alone can get your appetite going.

The deal: A vast selection of breads—both sweet and savory—are on offer. The bestsellers, like shredded pork, sweet buttered buns and ham, often run out quickly, so it’s better to drop by early. You can also grab sandwiches if you want a mini meal.
The price: Sandwiches are B20. Stuffed breads are B35.
13 Trok Wang Lang, 02-866-1649. Open daily 9am-7pm.

Prasert Saimai

Thanks to Prasert Saimai, there’s no need to drive to Ayutthaya for authentic roti saimai (cotton candy wrapped in thin dough). This little stall has been offering the freshly made treats for over 20 years. Uncle Prasert is usually busy and has no time for chit chat. Just grab and go.

The deal: The thin green dough wraps are soft and have subtle pandanus hints, while the cotton candy stays dry for a long time without getting sticky. Roti and saimai is packed in ready-to-grab bags to ensure you get your order faster than at McDonald’s.
The price: B20 per set.
Across from Wang Lang Bakery, 081-633-5102. Open daily 8am-6pm.

Rod Dee Ded

If variety is what you seek, look no further than Rod Dee Ded. This shophouse has a seating capacity for up to 30 and sells khao muu daeng, pork noodles and many more dishes. It has appeared on various TV shows because of its popular fish maw soup.

The deal: Sitting attractively in the cooking booth in the front, the big plates of crispy moo krob and succulent red BBQ pork do a good job of luring hungry diners into the shop. Don’t forget to try the khao kha muu (rice topped with braised pork knuckle and pickle).
The price: B25-30.
333 Trok Wang Lang,02-412-7146. Open daily 6am-5pm.

Khanom Thai (No official name)

This little stall has only one medium-sized table, on which various colorful Thai desserts are on display. It’s fun to play a guessing game and see how many desserts you can identify correctly. Don’t be shy and ask the shopkeeper to explain those unidentified sweet treats. She is more than willing to do so.

The deal: Forget your personal trainer’s advice and feast on the tempting bite-sized khanom Thai. The options change daily, so keep your fingers crossed for your favorite dessert to be available on your visit.
The price: B10-20 for a set.
325/6 Trok Wang Lang, in front of Chai Seng Lee, 08-4675-6203. Open daily 9am-5pm.

“Smoothie shop”

Everyone knows two off-putting things about markets are that they’re hot and crowded. Which is where this smoothie stall with a cute shopkeeper comes in.
The deal: Carrot and orange smoothies feature a harmony of sour and sweet tastes. Iced coffee is also available for those who feel sleepy after a big meal.
The price: B20-30.
Trok Wang Lang. Open daily 8am-6pm.

Saimai Bamee Kiew Goong

Don’t confuse this with Prasert Saimai. Despite what its name suggests, this restaurant doesn’t offer roti saimai, but noodles. The restaurant is normally filled up at lunch with college students and office workers. Don’t expect much from the service, since the staff seem to be frustrated by clients all the time. But fortunately, the delicious noodles can make up for any surly service.

The deal: Its bamee kiew goong (noodles with shrimp dumplings) are the best bet here. The dumplings are juicy with generous shrimp stuffing and are a perfect match for firm noodles. The shop also offers tubtim krob to wash down the meal.
The price: B25-30.
325 Trok Wang Lang, 089-944-8024. Open Daily (closed every other Sunday) 7am-5pm.

Khao Chae Phetchaburi

Khao chae is a rare, traditional, refreshing dish that is usually only available in the summer. But at Khao Chae Phetchaburi you can have this specialty any day.

The deal: Owner Yui is passionate about rare, traditional recipes. She learned the khao chae (jasmine rice in iced fragrant water to be eaten with side dishes) recipe from her family in Phetchaburi province, so you can count on her for an authentic, heat-quenching meal. The stall also offers krong krang (deep-fried sweet dough). And if you visit the stall in the cool season, you will also get a chance to eat look-choob, a sweet, colorful, fruit-shaped dessert.
The price: B20.
Trok Wang Lang.,08-5163-1866. Open Daily 9am-4pm.

Raan Pa Inn (Auntie Inn’s)

109 Trok Wang Lang, 02-412-6901. Open Daily 10am-6.30pm.
Many Isaan dishes are offered in the friendly, no-frills atmosphere. Seats on the ground floor are better, as the second floor is often crowded with office workers.

The deal: Somtam hoi dong (papaya salad with preserved cockle) is the top seller, and serves as a nice alternative for those who don’t like pla raa. You can play it safe and opt for somtam khai khem (papaya salad with salted egg). Grilled pork is good to order if you are on a health kick, since there’s no fat to be seen. Don’t forget to tell the staff if you can’t take the heat, because the saap food here can set your tongue on fire.
The price: B25-50.
Trok Wang Lang.,085-163-1866. Open Daily 9am-4pm.

Guisto

The “employee of the month” award must go to the shopkeeper of this bakery stall. The kind uncle here is very generous, as he will insist on you tasting his cakes, and won’t let you go till you do; a great chance to sample them all!

The deal: There are four or five kinds of old-fashioned, Thai-style cakes on offer daily. So instead of rich, creamy, chocolate cake, you have light and enjoyable items like coffee, sangkaya (Thai egg custard), and coconut cakes. Brownies are also a big seller.
The price: B20 for a pack of cake, B40 for brownie.
Guisto Trok Wang Lang, in front of Amnuey Ice Cream House, 086-030-4142, 02-412-9594. Open Mon-Fri 11am-2pm.

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In the year of 2589, the world population struggles to survive, hoping to emigrate somewhere off the uninhabitable Earth—but the poor can’t afford the space journey. 2589: We Are Just Visitors is the science-fiction book that deals with a future crisis on Earth and the people who are left behind. The author, Chetawan Thuaprakhone, has won the Chantree Sribunrod Award and the Seven Book Award for his work.

Can you tell us about the book?
It begins with the question that we’ve been trying to solve for many years: what is a black hole? Once I tossed a stone into the lake and the water rippled to form a circle. At that moment, I wondered if one circle were a universe, when many universes collided, there would be holes between them. The book is based on this idea.

How do you feel after being awarded twice?
I wrote this book three or four years ago. When I reread it, I didn’t like some parts of the book. Since I knew what the story would be and how it would end, I think I wrote it aiming to finish each chapter without giving much detail. It’s like I focused on the destination, not the journey. But I’m proud that I finished such a long story.

What happens in the next book?
The characters are grown up and the theme of the story is going to be more crucial. The end of the first episode is related to genetics, and so the next book will be based on that. The third one will be about mechanics.

How do you cope with the writer’s block?
I’ve never had this problem; I can always write. Inspiration comes all the times since the world never stops moving. I make each day of my life different so that I never get bored. I try to be a reader who knows nothing about the plot, thus I can make my story fresh and exciting.

Are you full-time writer now?
No, I don’t like doing just one thing all the time. I would like to be a new-generation academic—someone who is bright but can present his work or research differently, not in a boring way. Also, I would like to work in an office some time since I’ve never experienced in working 9 to 5.

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Wat Mungkorn is a temple famous in Yaowarat for its consecrated gods, who are believed to bring luck to those who worship them. Just across the road, Jung Jek Tek, a 72-year-old man, writes Chinese characters on red paper, which his customers believe will also bring good things into their lives.

How did you begin this job?
I worked in a glasses factory for many years. But after they replaced humans with machines, I lost my job. I learned writing Chinese characters with a paintbrush from my mother, so I began to work here.

What do you write on each piece of paper?
They are actually Confucius’ words. Phrases like “God brings fortune to the enterprising” and “Peace and wealth come to life” are the most popular.

How much do you make?
The price begins at B10. Sometimes I earn more than that, but at times I earn nothing.

How do you concentrate on this busy street?
Concentration happens inside. Although it’s really busy here in Yaowarat—people walking past, cars and buses making noise—I don’t feel annoyed at all. When I do my job, I’m really into it. I don’t hear any noise; I don’t see anything but my work. If you can’t concentrate on your work, you can’t live your life.

What is the best part of your job?
I love my job because it makes my clients happy. I can live without working because my children are all grown up and can take care of me, but I believe one should make each day worthwhile. As a human, we have to struggle for our lives, not just let them pass easily.

What happens to your stall when you need a break?
I just leave it here. I go to Wat Mungkorn and come back and continue my work. Nothing has been stolen so far.

Has the bombing in Yaowarat affected your life at all?
I don’t fear anything. I believe that if I’m a good man and do nothing wrong, I will live my life free from harm.

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Though a full-fleged superstar since his romantic indie song “Rak Thur” launched him into the heavens, Ford-Sobchai Kraiyurasain was far from an overnight sensation. He entered the Siam-Kollakarn singing competition five straight years before bringing home any awards, for example. Over the years Ford has earned a living primarily as a producer for other artists, but recently he released a “comeback” album on his own label, That’s OK.

Three years ago when I worked with my former label on my own project, I had many rules and a very strict schedule. I was really tired, though, so I took some time off.

While producing for other singers, I came up with some beautiful phrases and ideas that I was able to put into my latest album.

The difference between being a producer and a singer is a producer has to do anything to make an album sound good, while a singer just has to sing.

As a singer, you have to work as hard as the producer wants, but it’s good if you want to be a better singer.

I’m two different people when I work as both producer and singer. A good producer has to know the singer’s ability. The good thing is I know which songs are good for me and which are not.

I produced hip hop music for Temple Dogz but I would never do that for myself because I know what’s good for me.

I like hip hop but I think it might be too shocking if I changed from being a love song singer to a rapper. I can’t just go on stage rapping like them.

Executive Manager is my title at my new label. I’d prefer to use “Executive Producer” instead since I control everything about the music, but I know nothing about managing a company.

I’ve always been a music-maker, not a businessman. I prefer keeping my company as small as it is now.

Working with big labels taught me a lot about how to operate. Working under my own company now, it’s 10 times harder than with a big label, but I’m content having my freedom.

“Balance” is my favorite word and also my working motto. It doesn’t mean that two good things make a better combination. Perfection is “no more and no less.”

On this album, when others suggested adding or cutting something, I always tried to keep the balance. Lyrics, melodies and instruments are all balanced and adjusted according to my own experience and feelings.

H.M. Blues is another project on which I’ve participated with many other famous singers covering the works of His Majesty the King. We tried to change teenagers’ attitude that blues is appropriate not just for the older generation, but for young people, too.

I haven’t felt pressure from my last success in making this new album. Each project is like beginning from zero all over again.

Accomplishment is something that encourages you to move on.

When I fail, I always try again. Failure comes more often than success—maybe one time in 10 I am successful—but it makes my vision clearer and my overall work improves.

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Shakespeare’s classic play The Tempest has been reinterpreted many times for the stage, but never in a manner quite like this. The version that the Faculty of Arts at Chulalongkorn University is now playing doesn’t take place in the Romantic Period, but rather 12 years in the future. The dialogue in Shakespeare’s the Tempest may still be hard to understand, but in this new setting, the story is very entertaining. Nok, VJ on the TV program Pop-Up Live, was chosen for the leading role of Miranda. She tells us about her experience and the play.

Which do you prefer—being a VJ or being an actress?
Acting in a play and hosting a TV program are quite different. When I work as a VJ, I can be myself and say what I want. Also, I need to solve sudden problems during the show and cope with many guests each day. On the other hand, when I act in the theater, I have to be someone else. I have to make them understand the play, no matter how complicated it is. I have to convince them to see the character I’m playing. I like both jobs. They are each challenging in their own way.

Why do you think you were chosen for the part?
I was really nervous because there were a lot of talented actresses auditioning for the role of Miranda. Before she faces the real world, she grows up and never knows that there are other people besides her father and herself. This makes her more childish than she should be. She and I have one thing in common—we are both sprightly. I always want to make others happy. I may not be the most talented actress, but I’m just right for this role.

What have you learned from taking part in this play?
Even though I’m doing my Master’s Degree in drama, I had never acted in real theater. While working here, I’ve seen each person’s ability. Everyone has spent a lot of time on this project. People have their different sides. They may be funny in the real world, but they are serious in here.

What is the best thing about The Tempest?
It’s theater! But it’s really special and different this time. The story takes place on an island, thus, we made the theater simulate that island. I’ve seen the whole production and it’s just fantastic.

Has your daily life changed at all?
It hasn’t changed that much. I attend classes in the morning, rehearse the play in the afternoon, and I work at the show’s studio at night. It sounds like a lot in one day, but I have no problem dealing with it.

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Marko Andrew Cunningham changes careers more often than some of us change our underwear. He was born in Liverpool, moved to New Zealand and then traveled throughout America, Europe and Asia, eventually settling down in Thailand. He’s now a teacher and a volunteer for the Ruamkatunyu Foundation, an organization that helps people deal with accidents, death and poverty. He spends B15,000 a month working for other people and running his mobile ambulance. You can help him helping the others by logging on to www.markokang.fabpage.com.

Is it hard changing from one field of work to another?
No, not at all. I normally choose the things I like to do. That’s why I’ve changed from electrician to policeman to manager to teacher to paramedic. I just follow my heart and basically do what I want to do.

What’s next the next one?
I think this is the end of the road, though—it’s what I love doing. Saving somebody’s life is probably the ultimate thing. This is the reason why I was born, the reason why I am here.

How did you get hooked up with the Ruamkatunyu Foundation?
The father of one of my first students was one of the bosses of Ruamkatunyu. She invited me to do some volunteer work. I went to a flood-hit area in Saraburi five or six years ago. It was my first time to meet poor people who had lost everything.

Your co-workers at the Foundation don’t speak English—any Lost in Translation moments?
Two days ago, I went to help somebody, but actually it was a snake. I thought I heard “puad” or “jeb”—I wasn’t sure. I went there very quickly and the pranakorn asked me why I came and I said, “Chuay kon jeb” [to help the injured]. They said it was a ngoo [snake] and the other said, “ngoo jeb mai?” [is the snake hurt?]. They started making fun of me.

What can we do to help?
You don’t need any experience to work with us—all you need is a strong stomach and a big heart. Or just donate food, clothes, toys or books—basically anything, money for coffins even. If you drive into a petrol station and see some volunteers, buy them a drink. It’s really appreciated.

In five years?
My five-year plan is to have my ambulance running and to be speaking fluent Thai. I also expect Ruamkatunyu to increase its service to the community in Thailand. I would like some support from the farang community in Thailand, as well, because I think farang like to help.

What would you like to do next?
Get married and have a kid. I really want a child. My girlfriend left me because I didn’t have time for her.

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She never attended art school, but Somjai Reiss has been painting for 30 years and is well-known for her impressionist works. Her latest project is a bilingual book called My Beloved Thailand (available at Asia Books), which features 34 watercolor paintings showing the cultural heritage and natural charm of Thailand.

Why watercolors?
I’m quite a sentimental person. I believe that water brings luck. Like if we have a picture of a canal at home, happiness will be brought to our lives as well and the sadness will be gone. And I prefer something natural to something artificial.

What makes your work different?
I’m honest with my work and myself. I can’t force anyone to buy my books. There’s an image of a mackerel seller in this book—no one would ever do this. I want people to see our real Thai way of life.

What do you get out of publishing a book?
Writing a book is like leaving a message in a bottle and letting it float out to sea. And one day there might be someone who gets it by chance. This is the beauty of making a book.

What’s your goal with this book?
My goal is to represent Thailand. Thailand’s image is about eating, drinking and sex, but as an artist, I present other facets of Thai life. There are a lot of beautiful places in Thailand. And this book will improve Thailand’s image in the eyes of foreigners.

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