How an active body can lead to a calm mind.

Achieving peace of mind is no easy task. Much more of a journey than a destination, it involves your entire lifestyle: from the food you eat and the way you think to the friends you choose and manner in which you interact with the world. And no matter how you hope to achieve it, a key element for anyone who desires peace of mind is some form of physical exercise.

But which physical exercise to choose? The correct answer to this, undoubtedly, is whichever one you enjoy the most. Lifting weights, jogging or playing sports have their place in the life of many. What makes disciplines like yoga, Pilates and tai chi different from athletics is that they involve not only the body but, simultaneously, the mind. By coordinating movement with a meditative mental state and regulated intake of breath, participants can yield an incredibly satisfying workout, a toned body and a calm, controlled state of mind. To a lesser extent, massage (especially Thai massaage) can offer some of the same benefits as these practices, though at a less strenuous intensity.

From the East to the World

From its obscure, ancient Asian origins, yoga has evolved to become a full fleged, multi-billion dollar industry. Over the past 30 years, yoga has spread from being a uniquely Eastern phenomenon to a chic yet undeniably effective practice in the West. (Its popularity in the region will be confirmed on June 1 in Hong Kong, where the Evolution: Asia Yoga Conference will gather some of the world’s biggest commerical successes in yoga in one place.)

Bored of the Treadmill?

As many yogis will testify, regular practice not only transforms the body, but can also have a marked effect on the practictioner’s life, creating a natural inclination for a healthier lifestyle that goes beyond just exercise. The only way to see if it works for you is to give it a try.

As with any yoga class, the quality of the experience is largely determined by the quality of the teacher, how they communicate, and how you relate to that person. This is especially true for beginners. A teacher can be the difference between bliss and sweaty frustration.

Yoga Resources

Here are a few of the many places in town to get stretchy. (In addition to these yoga studios, classes are offered by multiple gyms in town—at California Wow and the Capitol Club, for example.)

Absolute Yoga Bangkok
Studio 1, 4/F Amarin Plaza, Ploenchit Rd., 02-252-4400. BTS Chit Lom. www.absoluteyogabangkok.com
With branches throughout Bangkok, Samui and Pattaya, Absolute Yoga is one of the most expansive yoga franchises in Thailand. They teach an extensive range of yoga types as well as Pilates. Discounts available for first time students.

Dance Centre
53/3 Sukhumvit Soi 33, Klongton, 02-259-8861. BTS Phrom Phong. www.dance-centre.com
The Dance Centre is a school for performing arts, teaching ballet, kung fu, tai chi and Aikido in addition to yoga. Their yoga course incorporates Hatha, Raja, Jnani and Bakti disciplines.

Iyengar Yoga Studio
3/F Fiftyfifth Plaza, 90 Thonglor, 02-714-9924. BTS Thonglor. www.iyengar-yoga-bangkok.com
Opened in 1999 by former runner Justin Herold, this studio is the first accredited center in Thailand for Iyengar Yoga.

Kundalini Yoga
www.kundaliniyogathailand.org
Yogi Bhajan, who popularized this form of yoga in the 1970s, proclaimed it so effective that one year of doing Kundalini Yoga is equal to doing 22 years of any other type. Supposedly, this is because the discipline works the glandular and nervous systems, focusing on the breathing exercises and meditation more than poses to break through emotional blocks. There is no central studio for Kundilini Yoga in Bangkok, but several teachers live here and offer classes and workshops at differing schedules and places. Visit the website above or call these teachers for more info. The first class with Susan is free.

Susan Adler Shaw
Soi Manee’s Yoga Center, Soi Jim Thompson, 089-212-1782, BTS Siam, [email protected]

Pieter
Suite 38B, Wattana Heights, 143/55 Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-661-6597, 081-987-1435. BTS Asok.

Sheila Rank
Soi Ruam Rudee, 081-341-6418. BTS Ploenchit. [email protected]

Natural Care Therapies Research and Training
28/1 Sukhumvit Soi 36, 085-108-6401
Bita Sethi runs yoga classes at beginner, intermediate and advanced levels. She also runs a pranayama workshop, and a Therapeutic Yoga course—a one-on-one session taking into consideration the personal needs of the attendee. 

Prana Yoga
117 Thonglor Soi 10, Wattana, 02-391-6487. BTS Thonglor. www.pranabangkokyoga.com
Prana Yoga is a petite studio located within the Sareerarom Spa. They teach “Power Vinyasa” yoga, which promises to leave you uplifted and energized after class, no matter what your level of practice. New students can get three classes for just B900.

Y-Fit
113/6 Thonglor, Wattana, 02-712-6111-2. BTS Thonglor. www.sunyfitwellness.com
This small studio offers a variety of classes primarily for women. Included in their roster are hot yoga, Vinyasa classes for beginner and intermediate practitioners, pre- and post-natal classes, and yoga for kids.

Yoga Elements Studio
23/F, Vanissa Building, 29 Soi Chitlom, 02-655-5671, BTS Chit Lom. www.yogaelements.com
Professional studio that teaches Ashtanga Vinyasa classes with approachable teachers, great ambience, and a friendly community. Classes are taught at various levels with easy-to-understand explanation. Hot yoga available on Thursday nights. They also host special events including visiting teacher workshops, related film screenings, discussions, and more. Yin Yoga teacher training with Victor Chng takes place May 27-29. Check web for info.

Yogasutra
32/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, 100/70 North Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, 02-636-6758-9, www.yogasutrathai.com
This studio teaches a combination of Hatha, Ashtanga and Sivanandha yoga, with emphasis on strength, flexibility and stamina. They also have Gentle Yoga classes, for beginners and more frail members of the community.

Pilates Resources

“In 10 sessions you will feel the difference, in 20 sessions you will see the difference, in 30 sessions you will have a whole new body…”

These are the words of Joseph Pilates, speaking of a practice he developed called Contrology, which would later more popularly take his last name. In his youth, he suffered from asthma, rickets, and rheumatic fever. On account of this, he devoted his life to the invention of a practice that alleviated the effects of his physical weakness and improved his strength by focusing on the core muscles that keep the body balanced. It is especially good for women as it targets areas that tend to be weak: abs, lower back, and butt.

Pilates consists of a low repition of highly controlled movements which enage the both the body and the mind. There are generally two types of courses: mat and equipment. Equipment uses a special machine (the Reformer) which Joseph Pilates developed, which is spring resistant in both directions of motion, and it a good program for rehabilitation. The Reformer creates strong but longer, less bulky muscles—one of the reasons Pilates has found favor in the professional dance community. Mat classes don’t use a machine, but do utilize elastic bands, fit balls, and weights.

The Pilatestudio
888/58-59 Mahatun Plaza, Ploenchit, 02-650-7797. Open Mon-Fri 8:30am-8:30pm, Sat-Sun 9:45-12:15am
The Pilatestudio is a versitile and modern studio offering mat and equipment classes, as well as pre- and post-natal sessions, Gyrotonics and Shiatsu massage. Caters to all levels, beginners to advanced, men and women.

Style Pilates Studio Bangkok
Vaneechapark (Jareemart Apartment), 39/9 Soi Lang Suan, Ploenchit. 089-521-2616 www.style-pilates.com
Pilates taught by a cured osteoparosis sufferer in a studio fully equipped for classes and workshops. Both mat and equipment classes taught here. Free introductory session.

Studio 31 Pilates & Dance Studio
289/2 Sukhumvit 31; Tel. 02 662 1833, 084 070 4060; www.pilatesanddancestudio.com
Mat and equipment classes available, with special sessions designed especially for men, and others for pregnant women. For kids—ballet, jazz and hip hop dance classes are available. Yoga for adults and children also on offer.

Tai Chi Resources

Tai Chi is a soft style martial art, where the goal is to achieve relaxed muscles and reach the best possible health through controlled breathing and “skeleton mechanics.” Its been described as “moving meditation” and the slow, repeated motion between different poses (or forms) helps increase balance and flexibility, promotes good posture, encourages blood flow, and boosts the immune system. Tai Chi also aids in lessening the effects of stress, anxiety and depression on the body by promoting inner calm. You can always go to the park and just follow along, but if you want to actually know what you’re doing, check these out.

Chen Tai Chi Thailand
4/F Piyavan Tower, 1199 Phahon- yothin Rd., 086-014-4050. BTS Ari. www.chentaichithailand.com
This is the first school in Thailand to teach Chen Tai Chi, a style which uses the skeleton to lead the body. It begins with a special Chen style warm up which refreshes the joints and relaxes the muscles. They also teach how correct breathing can help to still the mind in conjunction with the body movements. This month they also are beginning the Bad Back Club—a program that concentrates on aiding those with weak or damaged backs.

Kru Suthee Panthong
Near the bridge going onto the little island in Lumpini Park
Kru Suthee teaches Tai Chi Mon-Sat from 5:30pm onwards. Two consecutive classes each weekday. It’s free, so drop by and check it out.

Changchuntang Club
www.thaitaiji.com
Learn Yang sytle Tai Chi with the Changchuntang Club. Can be performed slow and deliberately or with great energy. They also teach various sword and blade work.

Holistic Centers

If you’re not sure where to head first, maybe this is the best option for you. More than just gyms and not quite spas, these centers provide exercise resources, therapy, counseling, detox programs and more.

Balavi Natural Health Center
191/3 Soi Ranong1, Rama 6 Rd., Samsennai, Phyathai, 02-615-8822. Open Mon-Fri 8:30am-8pm, Sat-Sun 8:30am-5pm. www.balavi.com
The center offers natural healing processes such as acupuncture, herbal medicines, crystal healing, hydro-aerobics, hydrotherapy, yoga, qigong and more. A 40-minute hydrotherapy course is B1,800.

Chirofit
8/F, Home Place Bldg., Soi Thonglor 13, 02-712-7383/-6. www.chirofitbangkok.com
An “integrated fitness center,” Chirofit covers it all with a team of medical experts on staff. Prior to your first workout, you are given a full physical examination including a fit test and posture analysis. They then prescribe an exercise regiment that you can carry out in their fully-equipped gym. In addition to cardio workouts, they also have yoga and Pilates classes on offer and a skin and beauty clinic.

The Core
31/1 Sukhumvit Soi 53, Wattana, 02-6626662, www.thecore.co.th
This wellness center is completely devoted to family fitness. Though Pilates are the main thrust for adults, it also has activities for kids (drama, yoga, tae kwon do) and a safe, educational atmosphere for babies. Fit ball, yoga, dance and discussions are also available for women and mothers-to-be.

Rasayna Retreat
57 Soi Prom-mitr, Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-662-4803/-5. Open daily 9am-9:30pm. www.rasayanaretreat.com
This center offers detox and cleansing programs in a ranbow of shades: holistic workouts, yoga, Pilates, colonic hydrotherapy, a raw food café, consultations, naturopathy and more.

Tria Integrative Wellness
998 Rimklongsamsen Rd., 02-625-6699. www.triaintegrativewellness.com
Opening this month, Tria is a holistic health center that offers a variety of programs to serve the balance of your mind and body. There are different workouts available, including Pilates, body stretching, and yoga; as well as pampering menus which include acupuncture, massage, body wraps, and colonic hydrotherapy.

Super Spas

Alternatively, have the experts take over entirely at one of these first class spas.

HydroHealth
494 Erawan Bangkok, 4/F, Ploenchit Rd., Pathumwan, 02-250-7800. Open daily 10am-8pm, BTS Chit Lom. www.hydrohealth.co.th
Professional colonic hydrotherapy center from Hong Kong with well-trained and certified practitioners. Infrared sauna and health products are also available.

S Medical Spa
2/2 Bhakdi Bldg., Wireless Rd., 02-253-1010. Open daily 10am-8pm. BTS Ploenchit. www.smedspa.com
Staff includes certified physicians, dermatologists, gynecologists, psychiatrists and other specialists. You can have a health check by the professionals, hydrotherapy, massage, rejuvenation treatment, carboxy therapy and other services, including beauty and relaxing services.

St. Carlos Medical Spa
5/84 Moo 2, Tiwanon Rd., Pathumthani, 02-975-6700, www.stcarlos.com. Open daily 7am-9pm
You can spend one day or one week at this spa with its prime spa facilities. Here you will be helped to kill insomnia, receive special jet lag massage, phyto-aromatherapy, hydrocolonic work, laser acupuncture, pressure therapy, and oxygen therapy to give you physical and mental strength.

Yanhee Hospital
454 Charunsanitwong 90, Bangplad, 02-879-0300, www.yanhee.co.th. Open 24/7
Even though the hospital is famous for plastic surgery, they have treatments for inner beauty as well, and for affordable prices, too. Its colon detox is just B800, acupuncture is B600-700, and traditional massage is B150-175 per hour.

Spa Ten
10/F, Siam@Siam Design Hotel and Spa, 02-217-3000, www.siamatsiam.com
This spa focuses on ten treatments; Thai Massage, Thai Herbal Massage, Thai Acupressure Massage, Medicated Oil Massage, Thai Scrub, Thai Body Wrap, Thai Facial and Thai Foot Massage. Its signature treatment, Sip Massage (B1,000/60 minute), can be customized to your needs. Thai Acupressure Massage uses pressure to relieve pain to certain meridein points of the body.

Yoga Vocab

Yoga terminology is a bit confusing at first, but here’s all you really need to know.

Asanas—The actual physical postures or exercises.

Ashtanga Yoga—Form of yoga taught by K. Pattabhi Jois. Physically demanding, Ashtanga is a flowing series of specific postures that are great for building strength and flexibility.

Bikram Yoga—The original form of “hot yoga,” Bikram was named after its founder, Bikram Choudhury, who practiced a series of 26 asanas in a heated room.

Hatha Yoga—When most people talk about yoga today (outside of India), they are referring to Hatha Yoga, which comprises the physical postures (asanas), breathing exercises (pranayama), and meditation. Other than Hatha Yoga, though, there are other forms, such as the Yoga of Devotion (Bhakti), the Yoga of Rituals (Tantra), Yoga of Service (Karma) and others.

Hot Yoga—Any yoga that is performed in a heated room. This is done for two main reasons:
1. the body is more flexible at a higher temperature, therefore you can bend deeper into poses if you are hot.
2. the higher temperature brings on a higher intensity, more sweat, therefore cleansing the body…and soaking your mat. Mmm, sexy.

Kundilini Yoga—The emphasis in this type of yoga is on chanting, breathing and meditation more than on poses. Popularized by Yogi Bajan, the goal is to awaken the kundilini, an untapped source of power that rests at the base of your spine. Once awakened, the kundilini is heralded to bring on spiritual transformation.

Pranayama—Set of breathing techniques aimed at clearing energy channels and strengthening the inner lifeforce.

Iyengar Yoga—Style taught by B.K.S. Iyengar. It’s noted for focus of attention to detail and precise alignment of postures. Iyengar also popularized the use of blocks and belts in the practice.

Vinyasa Yoga—Style of yoga that flows from one pose to another with synchronized breaths. Similar to Ashtanga but less rigid in its sequence of poses.

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Alex Murray-Leslie is the frontwoman in Chicks on Speed, one of today’s leading electronic music groups/art collectives. Starting in Munich as a group multidiscriplinary artists alligned with the DIY ethos, Chicks on Speed first came into the public eye for their efforts as musicians in 2000 with an electropunk cover of Malaria’s “Kaltes Klares Wasser.” She’s DJing at Club Culture on Mar 30.

Why is music such a powerful medium?
Music is something for all the senses, especially in the live presentation. It’s confrontational, and demands a reaction, creating a discourse between performer and audience.

Which instruments or sound devices do you find most interesting?
The most interesting sound devices for me are the homemade ones. (I’m not so into traditional instruments that require traditional training.)

Do you find there are shortcomings to music or messages that are better suited to different artistic mediums?
Oh definitely, I think a load of musicians would be amazing fashion designers and vice versa. I always find it a shame when an artist limits themselves to only one creative medium. Sometimes a pattern on a dress can become a song, a music video, a dance and more.

What’s more important: the ability to create something totally new or the ability to present something in an attractive or cool way?
I don’t really think “the new” is entirely important or exciting; what’s more interesting is the connection between history and “the now.” It's the combination that gets me excited. As John Cage once said, it’s not how you do something but what you do.

Which artists have you recently been most excited and inspired by?
I love the new Yoko Ono remix album titled Yes, I’m a Witch, especially the mixes by Peaches and Le Tigre. I’m always excited when I hear new young women making music and putting it on MySpace—it’s inspiring to find those gems.

You've played in Southeast Asia before. How do you find the crowds here?
The crowds definitely compare to the wild ones you find in Buenos Aires or Tampere, Finland or Melbourne. Put it this way...I’m So Excited!!!

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AcroYoga is a dynamic practice created by a group of yogis from San Francisco that wanted to innovate a new way to exercise the body, mind and spirit. They are on tour now, holding workshops and teaching people about their vision. They will be at Yoga Elements Studio (23/F, 29 Vanissa Building, Soi Chidlom, Patumwan, 02-655-5671, BTS Chit Lom. http://yogaelements.com) Mar 23-25. See website for details.

What is AcroYoga?
AcroYoga blends the spiritual wisdom of yoga, the loving kindness of Thai massage, and the dynamic power of acrobatics. These three ancient lineages form the foundation of a unique new practice that cultivates trust, connection and playfulness.

How did you form this variety of yoga?
We played a lot, with each other mainly, also with other acrobats, yogis and massage therapists. Those play-jam sessions developed the base of the practice. Jenny had a rich background in contact yoga (“Flying”), and Jason had many years experience in partner acrobatics. When our practices came together, AcroYoga was born.

What level should you be at to get the most from AcroYoga?
All levels can gain a lot from this practice. The limiting factor of what a student can get out of AcroYoga is their ability to be open to receiving. A yogi that has been practicing for 20 years could be blown away by how great it feels to do the same postures, upside down and suspended by someone’s feet. Having a beginner’s mind, as the Zen folks would say, is the best way to enter a class.

What’s the connection between yoga and Thai massage? Which came first?
I don’t know that anyone can answer which came first with certainty—they are both very old and have many similarities. The postures of yoga and the postures that a receiver of Thai massage would go through are at times identical. One difference is that in yoga you are the one creating the posture, using your own strength to provide the asana. Thai massage it has been called “lazy man’s yoga,” because the effort or energy comes from the practitioner.

Is it strictly for couples or can someone come solo?
The majority of our students come solo, and we gear the work to be approachable to any person, not just people that already know each other. Everything in an AcroYoga class starts off slow and builds. We start in a circle where we all meet each other and a theme is shared for what the exploration will be based around. We emphasize the fact, while in the circle, that we are all partners. Little by little, people’s fears and barriers begin to melt. Separation and isolation are learned behaviors. It is natural to be close and open with each other. It does not take much to come back to this universal truth.

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Silence is one of the rarest commodities in town.

Arai na? What’s that? Speak up, honey, I can’t hear a WORD you’re saying over the sound of the jackhammer/circular saw/airplane/CD vendor/California Wow! salesgirl/Christmas music/old lady yelling into her mobile phone/roadside karaoke machine/permagrinned mall presenter /racing motorcycles/car horn/reverse alert/muffleless klong boat /backfiring tuk tuk /outdoor aerobics class!

It doesn’t take long to hear that Bangkok is one noisy city. For some tourists coming into town, it’s one of the first observations they make. In his 2004 birthday speech, H.M. the King himself expressed worry about the danger of premature hearing loss among Thai youth who frequent loud nightclubs. More recently, a whole slew of complaints have slid across the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration’s desk as a result of the airport opening in a previously residential area. But even if you don’t live near the airport or you don’t go out to noisy nightclubs, your hearing is still at risk, and more immediately, so is your peace of mind.

Hear Are the Facts

There are basically three thresholds you should be aware of in order to understand safety in terms of hearing. The Threshold of Hearing is the point at which the ear actually perceives sound. This is relative to each person and also differs by the sexes, but in general, the Threshold for Hearing is said to be 0 decibels (dB). The second marker is the Threshold of Pain—this is the intensity of sound at which pain is actually felt in the eardrum, and occurs at approximately 115-140dB. A sound at this level can cause immediate damage. The third and most important threshold is where sound is viewed as being “excessive,” and is usually judged to be about 85 decibels. If you hear a noise at 85dB or louder for an extensive period of time, it will cause temporary or permanent hearing loss. Prolonged exposure to loud noises can also lead to a condition called tinnitus, which fills all silences with a ringing sound in its sufferers, and makes loud noises painful to endure. In addition, you may be forced to say, “What? Can you say that again, please?” to nearly everyone, which is annoying. Your friends will stop calling you because nobody likes a broken record, and you’ll become a social outcast.

How long will it take for this damage to occur? It depends on how loud the noise is. “The safety level should be no higher than 80dB for less than six hours,” says Dr. Polporn Apiwattanasawee, an otolaryngologist (ear, nose and throat doctor) at Vajira Hospital. “According to the law, 90dB is considered dangerous and should be limited to less than four hours.”

As Dr. Polporn implies, the louder a noise is, the less time it takes to damage your hearing. Students at schools and residents of housing estates near the new airport (Bangkok’s Lat Krabang, Minburi and Nong Chok as well as Samut Prakan’s Bang Phli) found out about this statistic recently, where noise from planes taking off and landing has been a major source of noise pollution. Schools in Lat Krabang, that were recently awarded grants from the BMA to install noise-absorbing materials­, were suffering from noise levels of 90-100dB. Ouch.

Big City Life

Even if you don’t live or work near the airport, loud noises in everyday life put hearing and health at risk. Taking a stroll down the street with a noise meter reveals that, surprise, surprise, most Bangkok city sounds are in fact louder than 85dB. In fact, roads with traffic on them clock in fairly high. According to the Pollution Control Department, which monitors noise levels daily on its website (http://gendb.pcd.go.th/NOISE/en_noiselevel.asp), Lad Prao can go as high as 89dB, Huay Kwang 86dB and Din Daeng 83dB. Therefore, the people who work on the street (street vendors, traffic cops, drivers), as well as those in noisy places of work without proper ear protection (construction workers), are at serious risk of hearing loss, tinnitus and a bad social life.

A Public Health Ministry survey of over one thousand clubs and bars in Bangkok found that the noise intensity at more than 33 percent of them was over the recommended 91dB; with some reaching dangerously into the pain threshold—up to 144dB.

“Hearing loss usually happens with people in their 40s and 50s,” says Dr. Polporn. “However, it is getting more common for younger people to experience the first signs of this problem. The youngest person with a hearing loss problem I have examined is in his early 30s.”

Increase the Peace (and Quiet)

About eight months ago, Panchalie Sathirasas, a Bangkok artisan suffering from tinnitus, made a statement against noise pollution and formed the People Who Love Quiet Club. On June 21, 2006, The Nation ran a story on the club and Panchalie’s fight against the noise commuters had to deal with, specifically targetting the introduction of loud speakers on BTS trains and in stations, running an endless stream of repetitive advertisements. The reaction to this article in terms of letters to the newpaper and on the web has been overwhelmingly positive. One angry letter currently on The Nation’s website (www.nationmultimedia.com) states, “Several colleagues and I have registered at least 50 complaints over the past months [to Bangkok Mass Transit System], to no avail. Somebody is getting rich at the expense of our right to peace and quiet…” Another Bangkokian has dedicated an entire blog to listing the aural crimes committted in town. Quiet Bangkok (www.quietbangkok.blogspot.com) includes contact info for registering complaints regarding noise levels on the BTS, places to buy noise meters and also has suggestions for living a quieter life.

All this goes to show that though not much is heard about noise related infractions in the media, Panchalie is not the only Bangkokian suffering in silence.

Now Hear This

The World Health Organization reports that sounds above 80 decibels have the potential to make people more aggressive and can cause emotional disturbances. They also mention some evidence that noise pollution could contribute to cardiovascular problems, high blood pressure and heart disease (www.wma.net/e/policy/n3.htm). When you stop and think about it though, you really don’t need an international body of physicians to inform you of the dangers of noise pollution. Just think about your everyday life. You get up to the sound of barking dogs, go outside and get run over by the traffic sounds, get on a train or a bus and hear advertisements luring you to visit Singapore, go to lunch and hear some kind of mind-debilitating music in the restaurant, then go outside and hear some presenter yelling about a promotional offer and on and on…. What does this do to your focus and sanity? Where is the peace?

The only people who can do anything about noise pollution in Bangkok are those who are affected by it. If an establishment is playing music or announcements too loud, go and tell them that! If someone has his or her stereo turned up so high that it’s bothering you, do something about it. For every one person who notices and says something about a noise pollution issue, there are at least 10 others who have noticed the same thing but said nothing.

If you are working in an environment that is unsafe for your hearing, contact the Thai Department of Labor Protection and Welfare (www.labour.go.th/index.jsp) or the Pollution Control Department (www.pcd.go.th). The police can stop construction sites from working outside their normal hours, too.

Get out there and fight for your right to quiet!

Bangkok Bedlam

Simply put, Bangkok is a symphony of chaos. Some city sounds are music to our ears, while others make us wish we didn’t have ears. Like them or not, they all make up the soundtrack to our lives. We decided to rate a few of the most memorable ones in a new musical scale we like to call…The Annoying Scale.

1 Utter Serenity - 3 Hurts So Good - 5 Umm, Can You Please Stop That? - 7 You! Out of Here! Now - 10 Jesus H. Christ!!

7-Eleven tones 4
Birds chirping 1
BTS/MRT doors closing sound 6
“Satanii topai...Sala Daeng” 4
Cracking of mosquito rackets 3
CD hawkers on street 6
Blind singers strapped with PA 5
Bad karaoke singing 7
Presenters in the mall 10
Whistle-blowing guards 8
“Massage, sir?” 5
TV adverts in BTS 9
Sandals on staircases 5
Mobile phones on the street 4
Mobile phones in elevator/small office 8
Lover whispering nothings in your ear 1
Old buses with no muffler 8
Taximeter coming on 2
Techno Aerobics in the parks 6
Jackhammers outside construction sites 10

 

Enjoy the Silence

Want to escape the cacaphony? Here are a some ideas for places you can go to get some peace and quiet.

Miscellaneous Quiet Places

Thailand Book Tower (122 Sathorn Soi 12, Sathorn North Rd., Silom, Bangrak, 02-236-7575. Open 10am-9pm. www.thailandbooktower.com)—Become a member and you can enjoy nine floors of books, music, movies and quiet.

Thailand Creative and Design Center (6/F, The Emporium, 02-664-8448. Open Tues-Sun 10:30am-9pm. BTS Phrom Phong. www.tcdc.or.th)—Nice and quiet most of the time, except when the music is turned up too loud or the occasional jazz band plays on the weekend. Quiet areas for both members and non-members available.

Art Galleries—Lucky for you, art means quiet when it’s in a gallery. Try the new Whitespace Gallery (2-4/F Lido Theater, Siam Square Soi 3, Rama 1 Rd., 02-252-2900. Open Tue-Sun noon-8pm. BTS Siam. www.whitespaceasia.com) or Grusenmayer Gallery (OP Place, Suite 225 [next to Oriental Hotel], 30/1 Charoen Krung Rd., 02-266-4344).

Siam Society (131 Soi Asoke, 02-661-6470-7. Open Tue-Sat 9am-5pm. www.siam-society.org)—Aside from hosting lectures, performances and seminars, the Siam Society also has a nice quiet library with manuscripts, rare books, photos, videos and maps.

House RCA (3 FL, New Petchaburi Road, Huay Kwang, 0-2641-5177-8. www.houserama.com)—Cool movie theater with quiet coffee shop out front.

Quiet Bars

Bacchus (20/6-7 The Ruam Rudee Village, Pathumwan, 02 650 8986. Open 11am-2:30pm, 5pm-1am. BTS Ploenchit. www.bacchus.tv)—Nice wine bar that doesn’t get too loud.

Indy Tree Bar by the Story (44/4 Cheua Plerng Rd., under Rama 4 Expressway, 02-249-0222. Open daily 6pm-1am)—Fairly quiet place that offers three private KTV rooms, an airy alfresco area and a mellow live band.

Phranakorn Bar (58/2 Soi Damnoenklang Tai, 02-622-0282. Open daily 6pm-1am)—Artsy venue featuring two floors and a rooftop bar is far quieter and more peaceful than any of the places on the rabble rousing Khao San, just a few blocks away.

Threesixty (32F, Millennium Hilton, 123 Charoennakorn Rd., Klongsan, 02-442-2000. Open daily 5pm-1am. www.hilton.com)—Aside from the jazz singer and accompanist, this bar with panoramic views from the other side of Chaophraya River is spookily quiet.

Hu’u Bar (The Ascott, 187 South Sathorn Rd., Yannawa, 02-676-6673. www.huuinasia.com)—Weekdays, this upmarket drinkery on the ground floor of the Ascott is comfortably quiet, especially in the second floor restaurant/gallery.

For more quiet bars, click here.

Quiet Restaurants

• China House (The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Avenue, 02-659-9000 ext. 7650. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 7-10:30pm)—Pricy but delightfully charming, romantic and quiet.

• Tamarind Café (27 Sukhumvit Soi 20, 02-663-7421. Open Mon-Fri 3pm-midnight, Sat-Sun 10am-midnight)—As long as it’s not too hot, the roof of this vegetarian hang out is pretty, quiet and relaxing. Free wifi, too.

• Plaa Dib (1/1 Areesamphan Soi 7, Phaholyothin. 02-279-8185. Open Tue-Sun 11am-2pm and 6pm-midnight)—Nice mix of Western, Japanese and Thai food. Quiet during the week, but things could get lively with DJs, art exhibitions and occasional concerts on the weekends.

• Glow (2/F, The Metropolitan, 27 South Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3333. Open daily 6am-9pm)—Quiet, organic restaurant whose food acts like a karmic toothbrush cleaning your body and soul.

Quiet Parks

• Suan Luang Rama 9 (Sukhumvit Soi 103, Pravet, 02-328-1395. Open daily 6am-6pm)—Remote, vast, and quiet, this could be the best park to be outdoors and listen to the sound of silence.

• Benjakiti Park (Old Tobacco Monopoly, next to QSNCC, 02-278-2426. Open daily 5am-8pm)—Clean, big and still somewhat undiscovered, there’s always some part of this park that allows you some quiet reading time.

• Lumpini Park (Rama 4 Rd., Pathumwan, 02-252-8035. Open daily 4:30am-8pm)—Though it is occasionally racked with boisterous demonstrators and aerobics fanatics, this park is large enough to have quiet pockets at all hours of the day and early evening. You just might have to walk a bit to find them.

• Chuwit Park (Sukhumit Rd. between Soi 8 and 10, Nana. Open 7am-7pm)—This park in the heart of the city may not seem too quiet from the outside, but it actually provides quite a nice retreat once you get inside. Thanks, Uncle Chewy.

• Santi Chai Prakarn (Phra Artit, 02-225-7612. Open 24/7)—Good place to hang out on the weekdays, but on weekends this park can be filled with screaming little kids and hippies.

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DJ Ursula 1000 clues us in on his sound.

New York based DJ Alex Gimeno, aka Ursula 1000, has defined his sound with kitschy, loungey breaks that stitch together a network of references loosely based in ’60s cool that bring to mind the groovy days of swing. A peek into his record bag reveals a pastiche of New Orleans funk, metropolitan samba, percolating samba and the occasional big beat break. He will be bringing every pair of shoes he owns to the much anticipated Good Vibrations Festival on Feb 19.

Do you do many music festivals?
Not really. I’ve done Glastonbury, and something called Meltdown in Washington State, but generally it’s solo tours in clubs more than festivals.

When you do a live set, what’s the set up?
I’m mainly playing vinyls. I do bring a pinch of CDs as a lot of my set is weird bootlegs and mashups, but it’s 90 percent vinyl.

What kind of music do you find works best for the festival crowd?
I find a really fulfilled set is one where I can get everything in there—just mash in as many genres as I can. Make it fluid and make it work in my own style.

Your current album is Here Comes Tommorrow—how has your sound changed from your previous efforts?
This time around it’s less ’50s and ’60s intensive in terms of retro lounge elements, and has more of a ’70s and ’80s feel with an rock element and a punky electro element. These are new areas I wanted to explore.

Listening to your music, I’m curious to hear what films have been influential to you.
Mid to late ’60s spy movies like James Bond were big influences. Definitely sci-fi, Woody Allen and Peter Sellers, too.

We think “Russ Myers” when we hear your music.
Yeah, that too. Beyond the Valley of the Dolls is easily in my top 10.

Favorite crowd?
A silly, open minded crowd with a sense of humor.

Fail-safe crowd pleaser?
I have this Sugar Hill Gang vs. Pepe Deluxe track that has been in my box for ages. Who doesn’t like Sugar Hill when you hear them?

Day job?
I’m just doing music full time now. I have a studio at home.

What are you working on now?
I’m wrapping up some remixes right now and working on a new single called “Electric Boogie.” It’s on the Good Vibrations website.

Any advice for 2007?
As an American, I have to say “please don’t judge us by our leader in office.”

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An alphabetic look back at the highs and lows of 2006

A is for alcohol and advertising

A match, for better or worse, which may soon be no more.

B is for bomb

Perhaps jealous of all the attention separatists were getting in the South, “someone” (he/she was never caught) left a bomb in a car near the former prime minister’s home. The bomb never went off, though there was an explosion of finger-pointing.

C is for cats, and the men who eat them

Imagine being so poor that you’d eat a cat to survive. That’s the premise behind “Poo Boa Kin Maew,” a luk thoong song that became a surprise smash hit, no doubt due to its controversial subject matter. Now, if we could only find a group that enjoyed dining on dogs, our stray animal problem in Bangkok might be solved. (Just kidding.)

D is for demonstrations

In 2006, the people took to the streets and demanded that their voices be heard. For some it was out of conviction, for others an interesting way to pass the time (“fun for the whole family!”). Not only were the demonstrations for the most part peaceful, there were also numerous displays of heartwarming generosity and comradery.

E is for Erawan Shrine

In the midst of Thaksin madness, a mentally ill man took a hammer to the revered Erawan Shrine and left the statue of Brahma in pieces. His penalty for his attack on the god of creation? Death, by an angry mob.

F is for flooding

The jury is still out on whether the problem was an extraordinary amount of rain or extraordinary stupidity on the part of humans, but flooding made the lives of many Thais miserable this year. Let’s hope we won’t need to build more portable floating toilets in 2007.

G is for gay

Out of the closet and into BK! In June we launched our special gay issue, G Magazine (Jun 23, 2006), which was full of fashion, travel, nightlife, events, resources and more. Don’t worry if you missed it: You can look forward to two more in 2007.

H is for health

Bird flu is still a problem. Despite previous success in the fight against AIDS, a recent study suggests that the rate of HIV among gay Thai men has increased to “epidemic” levels. And public enemy number one? Alcohol.

I is for IQ

In July, Education Ministry officials broke the disturbing news that Thai children are below average when compared with their counterparts in other countries. But not to worry: Officials announced a five-year “intellectual development” plan that would help raise the average IQ of Thai children from 88 to 100 by 2008. Uh, isn’t 2008 minus 2006 two years?

J is for Jigme

With His Majesty’s 60th anniversary, royalty from around the world visited Bangkok in June. The youngest visitor was the then crown prince of Bhutan, dubbed Prince Charming by the press. Within days, posters of the handsome 26-year-old, who is now King Jigme, were being sold on the street to his adoring Thai fans.

K is for King

His Majesty the King celebrated his 60th year on the throne this year, and with this auspicious occasion came a number of notable celebrations including art and photo exhibitions, a royal barge procession, concerts and a who’s who of visiting dignitaries. We love our King!

L is for letters

And who was Thailand’s #1 letter-writer? Then Caretaker Premier Thaksin, who sent letters to several Asian heads of state explaining why he was taking a break and then another to “W” Bush in which he blamed his political opponents for the turmoil here but insisted he was in control. Oops! Then came the coup and his resignation letter.

M is for malls

You know what Bangkok really needs? More Mammoth Mega Malls. This year saw the blooming of the Siam Square area into Bangkok’s unabashed orgiastic epicenter of capitalism. With Siam Center, Paragon, Discovery, MBK and CentralWorld all within a 5km radius, the temptation to throw yourself into a whirlwind of debt is stronger than ever.

N is for New York

It is said that if you can make it there, you can make it anywhere. But what if you don’t? The former prime minister found out the hard way. His visit to the Big Apple began with protesters and ended with him desperately declaring a state of emergency before he joined the ranks of the unemployed.

O is for o-ver

Not “over” as in English but “o-ver”: The Culture Ministry’s crusade against coyote dancing (see “T”), then going after Somtow Sucharitkul’s opera. Banning all forms of alcohol advertising. Shutting down websites. Warning labels on snack food. At least they didn’t chop the end off The DaVinci Code.

P is for promises

“The airport will be ready in time.” “I will protect democracy with my life.” “There will not be a coup.”

Q is for quiet

In 2006 a group called the People Who Love Quiet Club emerged following a “test run” of TV monitors showing ads in Skytrain carriages. They pleaded with BTS officials to cut the audio, but their calls fell on deaf ears.

R is for Royal Flora

“What could be more simple that a little flower show?” the organizers must have thought. But then along came plant thieves, plastic plants, too few toilets (see “S”) and flowers that wouldn’t bloom. And what’s with the translation of “Ratchaphreuk” as “Golden Shower” tree?

S is for Suvarnabhumi

After years of anticipation, scandals, test runs, leaks, toilet shortages, encroachment and a BK fashion shoot, the new airport finally opened. People are still so excited about it they come to Suvarnabhumi just to walk around as if it’s a shopping mall; others park on the side of the highway and watch planes taking off and landing.

T is for Tanks

The coup not only provided what was ostensibly a solution to the political deadlock, but it also gave us the coolest photo opps of the year. Who wouldn’t want to be a tank girl or boy for a day and pose next to those big, strong, camouflaged men? Even coyote girls famously—and controversially—got into the act.

U is for UN job

As in the one formerly occupied by Kofi Annan that was not filled by Thaksin’s Thai hopeful. Oh well, maybe next time, Surakiart.

V is for violence

We wish that this year we could use “V” for something else (“victory,” perhaps), but the violence in the three southern-most provinces of Thailand continues despite the best efforts of government officials, religious leaders and other parties.

W is for World Cup

World Cup fever raced around the world and Thailand was no exception to the rule, even if we did have to watch all the big games after midnight. Consider yourself lucky if you weren’t in prison, as they showed the games but not live.

X is for xenophobia

In 2006, bird flu was blamed on a “neighboring country”; in the wake of the John Mark Karr spectacle, tougher visa rules were introduced for foreigners; and, though better described as “ignorance” than “xenophobia,” we made films that offended the sensibilities of Laos and Cambodia.

Y is for yellow

Polo shirts commemorating the 60th anniversary of HM the King’s accession to the throne were the essential fashion item of the year. When they were first introduced to the public there were shortages and allegations of counterfeiting, but now they can be found in (slightly) varying shades, styles and price points.

Z is for Jay-Z

He actually came to Bangkok to the surprise and delight of hip hoppers the city over—at least the ones who had B3,000 to spend on a ticket to the show.

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I enjoy my work. Every day is a holiday.

I grew up in Thailand and then I went to Australia when I was 12. While in Australia, I learned that you have to be honest—that you don’t have to be caught as a cheat to be a cheater.

I worked as an economist soon after I returned to Thailand from university for about seven years. That’s when I traveled around the countryside and saw a lot of things that need to be addressed, such as the population issue and poverty.

When you have too many children and not enough to eat, what kind of happiness can you have? We need to provide a balance. That’s an important element.

Corruption seems to be a disease among most Thai politicians and those who support politics.

I’d like to help less fortunate people have a better chance at life through better education and to produce young people who are aware of honesty and integrity.

We have a school in Buri Ram sponsored by business and the people that go there are poor. It’s free education but it’s very high quality.

Most of the world’s education systems, including Thailand’s, are too heavily skewed towards how to add and subtract, and how to write and spell properly, with little emphasis on creativity. This school has a lot of emphasis on creativity. We want these students to be a generation that concentrates on tomorrow, not yesterday.

Everything that the poor need is a big challenge. But mountains are there to be climbed, not complained about.

One thing I want to get started is a program that goes to secondary schools to get kids interested in doing public good. That way, by the time they are in university level, it becomes second nature to them.

I would love to turn Don Muang airport into low income housing and education center—it’s close to Bangkok and is owned by the government.

The best thing that Bangkok has ever seen is the SkyTrain and underground rail. It’s a great democratization of Bangkok because no matter how many jewels you wear, you‘re just the same on there. It’s great to see people of all nationalities and all economic levels sharing it.

We need to have more things where we can experience equality and see how good it is. Each time you are on one of these trains, enjoy it because it’s very democratic.

You can judge people by their toilets. If you want to check how good or bad a person is, go to the bathroom. Don’t look at their bank account; just go to the toilet. Then you’ll see.

I propose that all department stores be taxed—for every 10 square meters there must be a toilet. Have a toilet tax. Use that money to run toilets.

No one is a hero to me. There are people I admire and respect, but that’s just not the way I look at the world. There are many, many good people around, and not all of them are famous and not all of them are rich.

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Crystal clear and oh-so cool, step up to the next generation of super-premium vodkas

Vodka today is bar none the chicest white spirit on the top shelf, and in a class all its own. Its place as the premium inebriant for the style elite is unchallenged, taking over a throne traditionally occupied by gin, and the liquor’s superbly designed bottles and glossy marketing campaigns have every other spirit struggling to emulate. Even here in Thailand, where whisky still reigns supreme as the most popular hard alcohol, vodka growth has been substantial, expanding by over 30% since 2003. But not all vodkas are equal. There are the standard (or “well”), premium and now even “super-premium” vodkas sold at super-premium prices. Do you get what you pay for—or is it just marketing hype?

Fluid Origins

The exact place of origin of this noble spirit is a bit speculative as both Poland and Russia claim it as their own. Legend has it that in 8th century Poland, a peasant mistakenly left his wine outside all winter, which eventually turned into a crude version of vodka. It was initially only used for medicinal purposes, not being distilled for public consumption in Poland until the late-1500s.

Conversely, the Russians came up with their version of the spirit and started distilling it for consumption much earlier—the 12th century. By the 1500s, the Russians began infusing honey into the cold, heady mix to improve the spirit’s aroma and flavor, and used charcoal as a filter to rid the mix of undesirable by-products.

Regardless of where it came from exactly, vodka is unique among alcoholic beverages. Unlike beer, wine, whisky or tequila, which are judged by their distinctive taste or adherence to a set of flavor codes, vodka is evaluated by exactly the opposite—its lack of taste, its purity and its inoffensive, ghostly presence in a cocktail. This in turn poses a dilemma for distinguishing one brand of vodka from another—especially since it is a drink rarely sipped neat and most often consumed with mixers.

A Pretty Penny for Super-Premium

How do the super-premiums achieve this level of purity that sets them apart from the mass-produced vodkas? Put simply, multiple distillations.

Any amount of taste that vodka has comes from two things—the primary ingredients used in the distillation, and the water used. While some spirits can only be made with specific ingredients, vodka can actually be made from a wide variety of fermentable substances, including vegetables, grains and fruits. While the mass-produced vodkas will use cheaper ingredients and water and run the distillery just once, the super-premiums spend a bit more time running it over and over, increasing the purity of the final product, as well as the cost per bottle.

“Basically it’s all about taste,” says Geoff Ross, CEO of New Zealand-based 42 Below. “The super-premiums tend to be a little smoother and should have a bit more character…a nice one will have a good texture, a bit of weight to it, not like water, but heavier like a good aged wine.” The key to producing these is to run the distillery very slowly, repeating the process multiple times to pull out all the unpleasant flavors. “If you run the distillery fast, obviously it’s cheaper,” Geoff says, “but in doing that unfortunately it allows some of those unpleasant aspects of distillation to sneak through.”

Interestingly, a number of the most prominent super-premium vodkas do not emerge from the traditional birthplaces of the white spirit, Poland and Russia. One of the clear leaders of the group, Belvedere, does come from Poland, but Ciroc Snap Frost and Grey Goose emerge from France, Ketel One from Holland (now unavailable in Thailand) and 42 Below from New Zealand. These relatively new birthplaces for the spirit have earned them a nickname—the “New World vodkas.”

The differences between vodkas can be very subtle, but they are noticeable, as we learned from our taste test of several leading super-premiums (see below).

“This is just the beginning we are seeing now for vodka,” says Jonny Palsson, vodka connoisseur and Global Mixologist for Absolut. “Believe me, in 10 years…maybe we’ll be making super duper premium quality. Whatever is the demand from the consumer.”

Taste Test

42 Below - New Zealand
(B1,200/750ml)
Gaining its name from the fact that it is distilled 42 degrees below the equator, this New Zealand vodka is straightforward, pure and smooth. Perfect for those who like it neat.

Belvedere - Poland
(B1,420/750 ml)
Exceptionally pure taste with overtones of vanilla, this vodka sets itself apart with a buttery finish. Good for a Tom Collins.

Ciroc Snap Frost - France
(B1,590/ 750 ml)
Distilled entirely from grapes, this vodka has a fresh aroma with notes of citrus. Mixes with tonic, lime and ice to perfection.

Grey Goose - France
(B1,550/750 ml)
Carries a bit of a punch with a more alcoholic taste than some of the others. Exceptionally clean finish. Martini material.

Level - Sweden
(Official launch in 2007 but available in exclusive locations now)
The super-premium from the Absolut family carries with it a wave of heady aromas and a just a hint of grapefruit aftertaste. Perfectly smooth. Nice mixed with a splash of soda, lemon and lime.

Skyy - USA
(B480/700 ml)
The American spirit in the bright blue bottle has a distinctive taste with unusual flavors of citrus and mint. Try it in a dirty martini.

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In 1972, Tony and Maureen Wheeler completed a backpacking trip overland from England to Australia. When they arrived, friends asked them where they had gone along the way, where they had stopped and where they had eaten. In response, they made a guidebook for the trip and called it Across Asia on the Cheap. It became the first of a series they would later name Lonely Planet. Eighty million copies later, they are one of the largest travel publishers in the world. Periplus Publishing just released the duo’s autobiography, The Lonely Planet Story.

Is there anywhere you haven’t been?
Oh yeah, lots of places. Mongolia, Yemen…You know, the thing about travelling is the more places you go, the more you hear about. The more you travel, the bigger the world gets.

What’s the most beautiful place you’ve been to?
Antarctica. Everything’s either blue or white; either completely barren or penguins as far as the eye can see. That’s probably the most beautiful place we’ve been.

Do you still use your own books when you travel and stay in guesthouses, or are you a bit beyond that now?
Yes, of course we still use them! Well, we’re a lot older and the thing about getting older is you have more money so you have more choices. We have the option of being able to stay in hotels now. But if you go to somewhere like Ethiopia, there aren’t many options, and we’re still happy to stay in guesthouses.

Where does the name come from?
Our very first book we did, we made it ourselves—right on our kitchen table. Once we made it we had to come up with a name for our company. We were sitting in an Italian restaurant trying to think of a name and couldn’t think of anything. We had just seen a movie, and there was a Joe Cocker song in it called “Space Captain.” I was sitting there humming the lyrics to myself, which go, “Once I was traveling across the sky/ This lonely planet caught my eye…” And we said, “Ah, that’s it! Lonely Planet.” Of course it wasn’t until later we realized the lyric is actually, “This lovely planet caught my eye.” So the name is actually based on an error I made over thirty years ago.

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Andy Murray is without a doubt one of the most promising players in tennis today. Just 19 years old, the Scottish prodigy is the first British tennis player of note to play professionally in this British-born sport in decades.

Is it intimidating to step onto the court with players who have reputations for being very good?
All players at this level are good so you know you are in for a battle either way.

What’s the secret to beating that person?
Depends on the player but mainly focus on playing my own game.

Which players do you most look forward to playing against?
I’ve enjoyed playing against Tim (Henman) because I watched him play at Wimbledon when I was younger.

What makes your coach, Brad Gilbert, unique?
Brad has a lot of experience first as a player and then as a coach. He’s coached Agassi and Roddick to Grand Slam success and world number one rankings.

What’s been the greatest moment of your career so far?
Winning San Jose and beating Roddick and Hewitt back to back at the age of 18 was quite a moment.

What did you do directly after the match?
After beating Roddick in Wimbledon there was a lot of press to do, got a massage, then had to immediately start preparing mentally for the next match.

How do you get other people to believe and support you?
I don’t do anything in particular. Fans can choose who they want to support and it’s nice when they support you.

Do you watch tennis on TV ever or do you get enough of it everyday in real life?
Yes, I watch when it’s on. It is my profession, after all.

What’s your work out/training routine like? More weight training or cardio-based exercises?
I’m still growing so it’s not ideal to be doing a lot of weight training yet.

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