Authors’ Lounge

The teas are from the famed Mariage Freres of the Marais district in Paris. Their high tea set (B1,200) comes with your choice of tea (or coffee), scones, cakes and sandwiches. But most people just come for the beautiful architecture.
Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Avenue, Charoenkrung 
Soi 40, 02-659-9000

Agalico

Yearning for a spot of British style? With their all-white tearoom, leafy garden, graceful glass gazebo and a selection of teas (B120-140), Agalico has long been a high tea favorite. It also acts as a showroom for furniture and decorative items, so your cup of tea could end up costing you a whole lot more. 
20 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-5857 ext. 111. Open Fri-Sat, 10am-6pm. 
www.agalico.co.th

Vieng Joom On

This famous café from Chiang Mai recently opened a branch in Bangkok, featuring the same Moroccan style as its northern sister. They serves up different mixes of teas from around the world. Try the signature, Vieng Joom On Tea, a wonderfully fragrant mix of black tea, rose petals, white tea, clover, ginger, cinnamon, cardamom, black pepper and plum (B150/pot; B390 with scones, B650 as a high tea set).
93/332, The Emporio Place, Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-160-4342. www.vjoteahouse.com

Let Them Eat Cake

Run by the same people as W by Wanlamun, another Chiang Mai dessert eatery, Let Them Eat Cake serves up homemade pastries and sweets that wouldn’t be too out of place in a French patisserie. Their top of the line treats include the St. Honore Rose-Framboise (B175), dôme au chocolat (B130) and éclair à la vanille (B160). And the stylish new bistro has outdoor seating so you can enjoy your bakery selection with a cup of Fauchon tea, a 125-year-old brand that now makes funky flavors like wild strawberry and chocolate. Or just opt for the rich and flavorful chocolat chaud made with dark Valrhona chocolate from France (B180).
G/F, Mille-Malle, Sukhumvit Soi 20, Bangkok, 02-663-4667. Open daily 10am-midnight

Double Dogs

Situated in a shophouse in Yaowarat, this family business has been renovated into a small minimal café by its young owners. Teas here are from many different countries like Japan, Sri Lanka and China. They recommend their Chinese teas (B80-B240/pot) or matcha powder tea (B130)—the owners claim it takes an hour to grind five grams of this very special green tea! They also make their own blends, like apple and bergamot (from B45) or natural milk tea with no artificial colors added (so don’t expect the usual orangey cha nom).
406 Yaowarat Rd., Bangkok, 086-329-3075. Open Tue-Sun 11am-10pm

TWG Tea Salon & Boutique

Finally, luxurious Singaporean tea purveyors TWG have landed at Emporium. The tea menu is categorized into different regions with more than 450 varieties to choose from. Otherwise start your tea lesson with their signature Silvermoon (green tea, mixed berries and vanilla, B250) before graduating to iced South African red tea (B250). The afternoon tea set starts from B370: sit near the bar, where you can ogle the bartenders sipping from every pot before they’re rolled out.
G/F, The Emporium Shopping Complex, 622 Sukhumvit Rd., Bangkok, 02-259-9510

Salon du Thé

Located in a hundred-year-old house, this newly opened museum also contains a little tea house on the terrace, surrounded by an impeccably-landscaped Thai-meets-Zen-style garden. The teas here are from the renowned florist Sakul Intakul’s own collection, and hail from many countries around the world. Try some of his personal recipes, like the Kashmiri Spiced Milk Tea (vanilla, cinnamon, cardamom, B120) and Love Pekoe Rose Tea (Assam black tea, Indian ‘hundred leaf’ pink rose petals, B120). Afternoon tea sets are B240 and come with six Asian snacks like tua pap (rice crepe stuffed with mung bean), green tea daifuku and kanom tom (glutinous rice stuffed with coconut).
The Museum of Floral Culture, 315 Soi Ongkarak 13, Samsen Soi 28, Bangkok, 02-669-3633. Open Tue-Sun 11am-6pm

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Saxophone

3/8 Phaya Thai Rd., 02-245-3592. BTS Victory Monument. www.saxophonepub.com Open daily 6pm-1:30am
Just two years younger than Brown Sugar, Saxophone is Bangkok’s other jazz institution. Big names like Koh Mr. Saxman (every Mon), or reggae group T-Bone (every Fri) make regular appearances but talented young musicians like the Rhythm Nation Band also get to share the stage.

Brown Sugar

469 Prasumen Rd. 087-112-7774. www.facebook.com/brownsugar.bkk Open daily 6pm-1am
Bangkok’s original venue for blues and jazz music, Brown Sugar recently moved from Sarasin to Prasumen Road. Live music is still on offer daily with regular appearances by veterans like Chai Blues and younger faces like Mellow Motif. International acts like Dira Sugandi, Valtinho Anastacio and Lewis Pragasam also drop by now and then.

Jazz Happen Bar

62 Phra Arthit Rd., 02-282-9934, 084-450-0505. Open daily from 7pm-12:30am.
Apart from the view of Phra Sumen fort and the retro charm of Phra Arthit Road, this bar serves up quality jazz, most of it delivered by the professors and students from the Faculty of Jazz at Silapakorn University.

Fat Gut’z

1/F, Grass, 264 Thong Lor Soi 12, 02-714-9832. Open 6pm-2am
While not blessed with a lot of space, this 50s speakeasy-inspired hole-in-the-wall still manages to squeeze in a band which plays bluesy numbers well into the night. Come early as the place gets packed fast during the weekends. While you’re there, don’t forget to sample their specialty fish and chips, which are among the best in town.

Nothing but the Blues

141 Thong Lor Soi 13, Sukhumvit Rd., 084-033-5228. Open Tue-Sun 7pm-midnight
The youngest blues and jazz spot in town, Nothing but the Blues, is like a younger Brown Sugar—and it’s right in the middle of Soi Thonglor. Owned by a group of jazz musicians, the bar is not only their own personal stage, it’s also open for jam sessions every last Sunday of the month.

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Interview: Kessara Thanyalakpark

Director of Sena Development, on Sena Fest, the new community mall set to open on Charoennakorn Road at the end of this year.


What’s the potential for this area?
Charoennakorn has never been this lively. Before the BTS arrived, it was pretty quiet, but now we’re seeing condos and demographics we’d rank from B+ to A. We did a local survey and found that some people just go to Siam to buy two bottles of liquid soap—and they don’t cook anymore. They live in condos, which means less space, and more time spent shopping. Sena Fest is here to serve this neighborhood’s new lifestyle.
What’s the future for the Chao Phraya?
Expect bad traffic but a lot of energy. The CP project on the riverside (see page 8) is enormous and I believe it will change the face of Charoennakorn Road completely. People won’t just cross the river to have some Chinese food at a hotel: this road could soon turn into a weekend destination. I think Sena Fest and the CP project will bring new life here.

Interview: Natapree Pichaironarongsongkram

Executive director of Chao Phraya Express Boat Company, on their community mall project, Tha Maharaj, and boutique hotel Riva Surya.


Why develop projects along the river?
We are a ferry boat company that has been operating on the Chao Phraya for a very long time. We want to show people how beautiful life by the river is, or even life on the canals, like Bangkok Noi and Bangkok Yai. We would like to promote water transportation and living closer to the river by launching as many projects here as possible. We’ve organized a nine temples tour, now we’re doing this community mall and next is Riva Surya.
How has the neighborhood changed?
Today we see more people ignore the river and head straight to the city. But Koh Rattanakosin has its own distinct charm and we really want people to care and come back to the river instead of only hanging out in Siam and Sukhumvit.
How is your mall being received by locals?
We’ve had pretty good feedback. Our designer company, Contour which has done work for community malls like J Avenue and Rain Hill, did a survey of foreigners and Thais in the area. College students in the area are scared of the amulet market and want a cool place to hang out.
Do you think that the river could ever reclaim its status as the heart of Bangkok?
Even though you can’t really compare the two cities, I believe Bangkok is a kind of Paris of Asia. We have a river which has a unique character and culture—something that could be in the top 10 wonders of Asia.

Interview: Theinruj Toranavikrai

Founder of property blog Thinkofliving.com


Why are Charoenkrung and Charoennakorn so hot right now?
All these projects have been in the pipeline for many years. Asiatique held on to its land for a long time until they found the right concept. What’s changed is access to mass transit options (BTS Saphan Taksin and BTS Krung Thonburi) and the condos which have increased the population density in the area.
Will we see both banks develop at an equal pace?
Well, it’s going to take a long time. The level of development on the Thonburi side is so different right now. Bangkok is only developed on one side whereas a city like Paris has a much higher overall density than ours.
Is Rama 3 Road next?
Rama 3 Road is extremely long, too long. There’s no sense of community, it’s all new, so it’s completely different from Charoenkrung. There is no shopping, no busy sidewalks. It’s just a highway that cars race through—it’s not a destination. People don’t see a reason to go there and the mass transit is not convenient. So Rama 3 will take time. Let’s see when some new condos and malls come up in the area.

Interview: Jason M. Friedman

General Manager of The Siam

Why the riverside?
We were so fortunate to get the land. We want our guests to not only experience the river but live with it. When people travel, they want to see the traditional old houses, palaces and culture. And Dusit is one of the most historical locations in Bangkok. Tourists don’t really care for Thonglor and Ekkamai.
How do you see the river changing?
We want to be the best hotel experience in Thailand and to present Bangkok as the best city in the world. We’ve been in the industry for so long and now we want to share our love [for this area] through this.
And what about other riverside developments?
The river is really happening. Many places like Asiatique and Supatra understand the river’s appeal.
What about the surrounding areas and residents?
The canals need to be properly cleaned, then Bangkok would be even more wonderful. We know it’s getting crowded in the city so we would like people to see our resort and hopefully that would attract them to the river, too.

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