A Travel Guide to Suphan Buri, Central Thailand
Get deep into nature in the central province of Suphan Buri.
When anyone mentions Suphan Buri, discussion tends to turn to the 100-year-old markets or the many edifices bearing the words “Banharn-Jamsai,” the names of Thai ex-prime minister Banharn Silpa-archa (a local) and his wife. Now, though, Suphan Buri is also gaining a lot of attention as home to Phu Toei National Park, a serene and scenic stretch of land in Dan Chang district that gives you the chance to explore nature without venturing too far from the city. Still, it does offer a proper escape—there’s no mobile phone signal and no electricity when night falls. The only lit spots are the bathrooms and ranger stations. During winter, temperatures can be as low as 5-10 degrees Celsius, while the night sky is a sea of stars. Find out what else you can see and get up to just a three-hour ride from Bangkok.
Trekking is clearly the most popular activity here. Once you reach the national park, choose the trekking route that suits your taste: waterfall or pine forest. The latter is a pretty special experience as Phu Toei is the only national park in the central region to boast a pine forest as they normally only grow on mountains 1,000 meters above sea level. Here, it’s only 763 meters above sea level, yet there are hundreds of pine trees believed to be 200-300 years old. The Tapoenkee Waterfalls trekking option requires a bit more exercise, as the seven-kilometer route takes you up and down through dense tropical jungle, passing countless streams, bamboo forests and waterfalls as high as 15 meters. You will eventually reach the park’s three main waterfalls: Tapoenkee Yai, Tapoenkee Klang and Tapoenkee Noi, which is the nearest to the camp site, Tapoenkee 3rd Ranger Station. The highlight is certainly Tapoenkee Klang waterfall, where you have to use ropes to climb the steep rocks as the water falls all around you. The name Tapoenkee actually derives from the local Karen word “kee,” which means headwaters. Contact national park headquarters before you go as you must have a ranger to act as guide. A day trip including meals is B150 per person plus a fee of B400 per ranger. The best time to go is from October-February as there’s lots of water and less rain. They also have other environmental activities for you to partake in, such as reforesting.
If you’re still standing after a long day of trekking, your next challenge is to try to climb to the summit of Thewada Peak, the highest point in Suphan Buri at 1,123 meters. In order to get to the top, you’ll need to undertake a steep 45-minute trek over slippery steps and rocky outcrops with the help of ropes. The recommended time to visit is sunrise when you will see a blanket of fog lift from the valley. As the road is quite tricky, you can only reach the foothill by 4WD. After dragging yourself to the peak, you’ll be amazed to find a golden pagoda perched atop the mountain shining beautifully in the morning sunlight. You can visit here any season, but the best time is winter to lap up the cool breeze and to witness the sea of fog covering the forests of three provinces, Suphan Buri, Kanchanaburi and Uthai Thani, which is home to the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Thung Yai-Huai Kha Khaeng Wildlife Sanctuary.
If you’re looking for an adrenaline rush, just 10 minutes’ walk from Tapoenkee 3rd Ranger Station is a small but gorgeous waterfall called Tapoenkee Noi and apparently the 10-meter rockface is ideal for abseiling. The fun activity is overseen by experienced rangers who prepare all the abseiling gear and conduct basic training and guidance for newbies—contact the national park headquarters in advance. The cost is B1,500 per person for a small group of visitors, B1,000 per person for 10-20 people and B500 for 20 people or more. The waterfall is full of water year-round, but the best time to make a splash is still September to January.
While few people really know of this national park in Suphan Buri, even less is known of the local Karen people. These people settled here around 200 years ago migrating here from the forests up north and to the west. Visit Tapoenkee village to get glimpse of their daily life. Here, they grow crops like corn and a special species of rice that grows on the hill rather than in paddy fields. Do note, though, that the inhabitants here are devout Buddhists who like to stay sober, so there’s no alcohol allowed. If you want to learn a bit more about their culture, they also offer dance shows for visitors. Contact the national park office for bookings.
Apart from all the forests, waterfalls and scenic views, Phu Toei also has caves. The most fascinating ones are Tapoen Ngern and Tapoen Petch Caves. The cavernous Tapoen Petch is 10-meters-high and consists of beautiful stalagmites and stalactites that shine like diamonds under torchlight. It’s a similar case at Tapeon Ngern Cave, but the rocks are more white in color. Lastly, Tapoen Thong Cave has an impressive main hall, but unfortunately the entrance is largely blocked by the overgrown stalagmites and stalactites. At the entrance is a Buddha image worshiped by locals. Getting in the cave is quite tricky; you’ll need to enlist a ranger.
Phu Toei National Park 035-446-237, 081-934-2240, 089-246-0255, [email protected]
How to get there
By car
Take Highway No.340 (Bangbuathong-Suphan Buri) to Dan Chang district (200 kilometers) then take Highway 3086 to Ong Phra district and turn right onto Highway 3480. Take a right turn onto Rural Road No. 4031 and take another right turn to Rural Road No.3142 to Phu Toei National Park Office.
Entrance fee
For Thai citizens, it’s B20 for adults and B10 for children. Foreigners are B100 for adult and B50 for children. For vehicles, it’s B30 for a car. Those who don’t have a 4WD car must hire one from the national park office at a rate of B1,200 to the pine forest and B2,000 to Tapoenkee station.
Where to stay
Only tents are offered at the camp site at B250 per night. It’s B30 per person if you bring your own tent.
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What are undertones?
There is a difference between skin tones and undertones. Skin tones are the color of your skin: light, medium, tan, dark, very dark; your skin tone changes with time or exposure to the sun. Your undertone is what’s under the surface, though, and it never changes. It’s important to know your undertones for dressing in the right color, applying the right shade of foundation and various other make-up essentials. Know your undertone, nail your look.
How to test yourself:
This is the tricky bit, but it works on most people.
1. Study your wrists; you’ll see the main veins that run all the way down your forearm.
2. Hit your wrists a few times for the color to become more noticeable.
3. If your veins show green, you have warm undertones. If your veins show blue, you have cool undertones. If your veins appear purple, you have neutral undertones.
Warm Undertones Golden, yellow and peach
In the sun: You’ll tend to tan golden or brown without getting burnt. Jewelry: Gold jewelry Clothing: Think thanksgiving or autumn shades, and ivory instead of white; they’ll tend to make you look livelier and healthier. Makeup: When buying makeup, you want to choose hues that are similar to your undertones; stick to earth tones like red, orange, yellow, green and brown. Avoid: Stay away from cool colors to stay vibrant and radiant. |
Cool Undertones Pink, red and blue
In the sun: You’ll have a tendency to burn red and quickly, too. Jewelry: White, metal or silver jewelry. Clothing: Blues, reds, pinks, magentas, icy colors and pastels to make you look and feel prettier. White will radiate your skin, as well as black. Makeup: Ask for shades of pink, blue, purple and jewel. Avoid: If you are prone to experiencing discoloration then avoid warm colors. |
Neutral Undertones Aren’t you lucky. Experiment with both tones to see which suits you best.
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Essentials
M.A.C. Try 1/F Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000. BTS Siam.
Nars. Try G/F The Emporium, 662 Sukhumvit Rd., BTS Phrom Phong.
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BUDGET |
PRO |
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TENTS Coleman Evenston 4 Good for beginners and occasional campers. Features: 2 doors, 2 windows and extended shade. Capacity: 4 people Size: 8x10x1.72m Price: B4,500 from Thailand Outdoor Shop
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Coleman Master Series 270 Good for regular campers who want a tougher longer-lasting tent. Features: 2 doors, 2 windows, extended shade, rainproof, UV proof. Capacity: 4-5 persons Size: 2.7x2.7x1.75m Price: B18,500 from Thailand Outdoor Shop |
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COOKING GEAR Primus Express Features: Heat 2600w-8900 BTU/h, boils in 3.15 minutes. Can’t be used when temperature is under 5 degree Celcius. Weight: 0.96kg Price: B1,400 from Thai-outdoorfamily.com |
Primus Omni Fuel Features: Heat 300w/10500 BTU/h, boils in 3 minutes. No temperature limitation. Weight: 0.44kg Price: B6,100 from Thai-outdoorfamily.com |
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LIGHTS Princeton Tec AMP 1L Features: 1 Maxbright LED, 40 lumens, light range 52m, require AAA x2 batteries = 50 hours’ use. Weight: 0.57kg Price: B450 from Thailand Outdoor Shop |
Primus Prime Torch 1020 Features: Cree Q4, 130 lumens, light range 160m, requires CR 123 x2 batteries = 6 hours’ use. Weight: 0.58kg Price: B1,900 from Thailand Outdoor Shop |
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SLEEPING BAGS Scouter Features: Nylon 190T cover, stuffed with 100% polyester, suited for temperatures between 20-25 degrees Celsius. Size: 0.75x1.8m Weight: 150g Price: B450 from www.e-travelmart.com
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Kelty Eclipse 30 Features: 50D polyester ripstop shell, polyester and cotton blend lining, suited for temperatures down to -1 degree Celcius. Size: 0.9x2m Weight: 0.9kg Price: B4,500 from Thaihiking.com |
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Essentials
Coleman and Princeton Tec. available at Thailand Outdoor Shop, Sukhumvit Soi 101/1. 02-393-9397. BTS Punnawithi.
Kelty. Order online at www.thaihiking.com
Primus. Order online at: www.thai-outdoorfamily.com
Travelmart. Order online at www.e-travelmart.com
Phu Kradueng National Park, Loei Entry fee B100. Camping fee B90. Tent B225. 042-871-333, 042-871-458, www.dnp.go.th
After its annual closure over the rainy season, Phu Kradueng National Park is now welcoming back visitors to experience its virgin forests and red maple leaves. The national park limits visitor numbers to 5,000 people per day so you might want to call ahead. It’s a 3-4 hour hike to the camp site but it’s well worth the effort.
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Khun Sathan National Park, Nan Entry fee B100. Camping fee B90. Tent B225. 054-701-121, 054-305-585, 087-173-9549.
It’s that time of year when the mountains in the North turn pink as the nang phaya seua krong flowers, aka Thai sakura, bloom in the chilly weather, creating a spectacular landscape. One top spot to see it all is Khun Sathan National Park in Nan’s Na Noi District. Check with the national park office for a precise bloom forecast prior to your visit so that you don’t miss out. There are limited spaces for camping, too.
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Pang Oong, Mae Hong Son Camping fee B100. Tent fee B300.
Part of the SUPPORT Foundation’s Pang Tong Royal Project, Pang Oong is a dream destination for those seeking to enjoy the valley’s morning mist. As it’s not a national park, visitors who wish to stay overnight must register their name with the SUPPORT Foundation in Mae Hong Son (053-611-244, 085-618-3303) in advance. Visitor numbers are limited to 500 a day so do call ahead. |
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