When anyone mentions Suphan Buri, discussion tends to turn to the 100-year-old markets or the many edifices bearing the words “Banharn-Jamsai,” the names of Thai ex-prime minister Banharn Silpa-archa (a local) and his wife. Now, though, Suphan Buri is also gaining a lot of attention as home to Phu Toei National Park, a serene and scenic stretch of land in Dan Chang district that gives you the chance to explore nature without venturing too far from the city. Still, it does offer a proper escape—there’s no mobile phone signal and no electricity when night falls. The only lit spots are the bathrooms and ranger stations. During winter, temperatures can be as low as 5-10 degrees Celsius, while the night sky is a sea of stars. Find out what else you can see and get up to just a three-hour ride from Bangkok. 

Forest Exploring

Trekking is clearly the most popular activity here. Once you reach the national park, choose the trekking route that suits your taste: waterfall or pine forest. The latter is a pretty special experience as Phu Toei is the only national park in the central region to boast a pine forest as they normally only grow on mountains 1,000 meters above sea level. Here, it’s only 763 meters above sea level, yet there are hundreds of pine trees believed to be 200-300 years old. The Tapoenkee Waterfalls trekking option requires a bit more exercise, as the seven-kilometer route takes you up and down through dense tropical jungle, passing countless streams, bamboo forests and waterfalls as high as 15 meters. You will eventually reach the park’s three main waterfalls: Tapoenkee Yai, Tapoenkee Klang and Tapoenkee Noi, which is the nearest to the camp site, Tapoenkee 3rd Ranger Station. The highlight is certainly Tapoenkee Klang waterfall, where you have to use ropes to climb the steep rocks as the water falls all around you. The name Tapoenkee actually derives from the local Karen word “kee,” which means headwaters. Contact national park headquarters before you go as you must have a ranger to act as guide. A day trip including meals is B150 per person plus a fee of B400 per ranger. The best time to go is from October-February as there’s lots of water and less rain. They also have other environmental activities for you to partake in, such as reforesting.

Conquer the Summit

If you’re still standing after a long day of trekking, your next challenge is to try to climb to the summit of Thewada Peak, the highest point in Suphan Buri at 1,123 meters. In order to get to the top, you’ll need to undertake a steep 45-minute trek over slippery steps and rocky outcrops with the help of ropes. The recommended time to visit is sunrise when you will see a blanket of fog lift from the valley. As the road is quite tricky, you can only reach the foothill by 4WD. After dragging yourself to the peak, you’ll be amazed to find a golden pagoda perched atop the mountain shining beautifully in the morning sunlight. You can visit here any season, but the best time is winter to lap up the cool breeze and to witness the sea of fog covering the forests of three provinces, Suphan Buri, Kanchanaburi and Uthai Thani, which is home to the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Thung Yai-Huai Kha Khaeng Wildlife Sanctuary.

Waterfall Abseiling 

If you’re looking for an adrenaline rush, just 10 minutes’ walk from Tapoenkee 3rd Ranger Station is a small but gorgeous waterfall called Tapoenkee Noi and apparently the 10-meter rockface is ideal for abseiling. The fun activity is overseen by experienced rangers who prepare all the abseiling gear and conduct basic training and guidance for newbies—contact the national park headquarters in advance. The cost is B1,500 per person for a small group of visitors, B1,000 per person for 10-20 people and B500 for 20 people or more. The waterfall is full of water year-round, but the best time to make a splash is still September to January. 

Cultural Karen

While few people really know of this national park in Suphan Buri, even less is known of the local Karen people. These people settled here around 200 years ago migrating here from the forests up north and to the west. Visit Tapoenkee village to get glimpse of their daily life. Here, they grow crops like corn and a special species of rice that grows on the hill rather than in paddy fields. Do note, though, that the inhabitants here are devout Buddhists who like to stay sober, so there’s no alcohol allowed. If you want to learn a bit more about their culture, they also offer dance shows for visitors. Contact the national park office for bookings. 

Cave Wonders

Apart from all the forests, waterfalls and scenic views, Phu Toei also has caves. The most fascinating ones are Tapoen Ngern and Tapoen Petch Caves. The cavernous Tapoen Petch is 10-meters-high and consists of beautiful stalagmites and stalactites that shine like diamonds under torchlight. It’s a similar case at Tapeon Ngern Cave, but the rocks are more white in color. Lastly, Tapoen Thong Cave has an impressive main hall, but unfortunately the entrance is largely blocked by the overgrown stalagmites and stalactites. At the entrance is a Buddha image worshiped by locals. Getting in the cave is quite tricky; you’ll need to enlist a ranger. 

Essentials

Phu Toei National Park 035-446-237, 081-934-2240, 089-246-0255, [email protected]

How to get there

By car

Take Highway No.340 (Bangbuathong-Suphan Buri) to Dan Chang district (200 kilometers) then take Highway 3086 to Ong Phra district and turn right onto Highway 3480. Take a right turn onto Rural Road No. 4031 and take another right turn to Rural Road No.3142 to Phu Toei National Park Office. 

Entrance fee 

For Thai citizens, it’s B20 for adults and B10 for children. Foreigners are B100 for adult and B50 for children. For vehicles, it’s B30 for a car. Those who don’t have a 4WD car must hire one from the national park office at a rate of B1,200 to the pine forest and B2,000 to Tapoenkee station. 

Where to stay

Only tents are offered at the camp site at B250 per night. It’s B30 per person if you bring your own tent.