8 great East-meets-West dishes in Bangkok you absolutely need to eat
Amazing and creative flavors.
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7 years ago
Amazing and creative flavors.
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- By GROVE
- | Mar 03, 2017
Pork Belly Bao: Little Bao
The star bao buns are split in half, buttered and griddled, then stuffed with one of four fillings imported from the Hong Kong branch: pork belly, crispy Sichuan chicken, fish tempura and shiitake tempeh. Chowing down on the delicious pork belly bao, there’s no doubting Little Bao’s reputation: the succulent braised pork is slathered in hoisin ketchup, sprinkled with shiso leek salad and sesame dressing, and jammed between a soft, fluffy white bun. It’s an explosion of tastes that, frankly, the other bao options struggle to match.
G/F, 72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-392-6922
Khao Soy Burger: Soulfood 555
The single-page menu reads like a greatest hits of Thai street food, leaping from Isaan sausage to kaprao to various noodle dishes, with some remixes tacked on, too. The most obvious fusion nods are the burgers, which take familiar Thai dishes and slap them between two pieces of a charcoal-toasted Conkey’s brioche bun. Of the three varieties, the Khao Soy Cowboy (pulled pork in Northern-style curry) is the undoubted highlight with its tangy curry complemented by the satisfying crunch of crispy egg noodles. The watermelon pickle on the side really helps to cut through the flavor, too.
G/F, The Commons, 335/1 Thonglor 17, 02-101-4526
Bangkok Eggs Benedict: THE COFFEE CLUB
Brunch is finally getting creative! Australian-born coffee chain THE COFFEE CLUB is famous for its specially blended, UTZ-certified coffee from three origins—Colombia, Brazil and India. On top of their brunch-y, all-day dining mining, they just rolled out three new dishes, one of which, the Bangkok Benedict, adds a touch of Thainess to classic eggs Benedict. The Hollandaise, made fresh daily in-house, is infused with roasted chili paste. It all comes with imported mushrooms, eggs and butter, making for an ever-so-discreet tweak on what is otherwise a classical execution of this brunch favorite.
Eight branches in Bangkok, try G/F, Major Ekkamai, 1239 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-381-2736
Sesame and Lime Wagyu Beef: Upstairs at Mikkeller
Craft beer house Mikkeller has opened up the second floor of its Ekkamai home to fine dining. Korean-born chef Dan Bark helms the kitchen—he previously worked as a sous chef at Chicago’s Grace, a bona-fide three-Michelin-star restaurant currently touted as one of the most expensive in America. Bark describes his food as progressive American, meaning a mix-and-match approach to techniques and ingredients unbound by geography. His star dish, simply called “Wagyu Beef,” pairs olive-fed Kagawa wagyu with three forms of broccoli (puree, charred and sliced in ribbons), black and white sesame paste and lime puree.
26 Ekkamai Soi 10, 091-713-9034
Cod with Yuzu Kosho: Freebird
This restaurant is powered by a group of partners with long histories in the Singapore dining scene: Alan Barr of design agency Greymatters, Benjamin Lee of coffee brand Sarnies and Australian chef Dallas Cuddy. The Australian-inspired food is a produce-driven mix of Western and Asian cooking methods and ingredients. Chef Cuddy’s fillet of cod has the freshly plated appeal of Australia’s best produce-driven dishes, while accompanying it are the distinct flavors of Japanese yuzu citrus, Thai blue swimmer crab, tarragon, corn and soy broth.
28 Sukhumvit Soi 47, 02-662-4936
Mediterranean Lamb Burger: Crying Thaiger
The people behind Bangkok’s favorite burger truck, Daniel Thaiger, have opened a proper sit-down spin-off. Kitted out with a big flat-top griddle and a charcoal grill, the open kitchen serves up burgers, hotdogs and steaks. The Mediterranean Lamb burger is firming as our favorite, comprising a heavily seasoned lamb patty (black pepper, cumin, coriander seed) with tzatziki, feta cheese, mint and roast tomatoes stuffed between a soft Conkey’s bun. It’s a combination that’s impossible to resist.
27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 097-052-8861
Smoked Duck Breast: 80/20
Executive chef Napol Jantraget and Canadian sidekick Andrew Martin emphasize local ingredients and made-from-scratch elements, backed by Western cooking techniques, but even more distinctly Thai touches. The chef’s knack for making the most of only minimal ingredients is demonstrated in the Number One tea-smoked duck breast, which comprises slices of smoky duck breast and pumpkin in a variety of guises (charred young pumpkin, flower and shoots, puree). It’s a wonderful combination that bridges East and West effortlessly and splendidly.
1052-1054 Charoenkrung Rd., 087-593-1936, 02-639-1135
CHEF TALK
James Bradbury
Australian native James Bradbury has cooked for 20 years across the globe. Trained in classical French cooking, he brings his Australian roots and Melbourne’s “world-class cafe culture” to a new brunch menu now available at THE COFFEE CLUB. Here, he tells us about the rise of fusion, his new Bangkok Eggs Benedict, and what it takes to keep brunch moving forward.
What are you favorite memories of having brunch in Australia?
Long lunches, a great variety of fresh food, simply cooked, light and healthy.
You’re an Australian chef, French-trained, living in Asia. How does that influence what you like to cook?
I use my classical French training and experience to underpin my recipes; but in today’s environment you need to be able to adapt to change to customer’s needs. The food l cook needs to be properly prepared, modern, simple, and taste delicious—and it needs to look great on a plate.
What was the inspiration behind the three dishes you created for Coffee Club?
I decided to take our very popular eggs Benedict and infuse the dish with a Thai taste. But first, the basics. We use classical techniques, with modern fresh imported ingredients. Our salmon, spinach, mushrooms and butter are all imported, for example. We make our Hollandaise sauce fresh daily, in-store. Now for that Thai touch, we infuse it with roasted chili paste. The result is slightly sweet, spicy and creamy due the imported butter and eggs. It’s going to be our signature dish for sure.
How do you feel about the term “fusion”?
Fusion is the evolution of food, however it should remain underpinned by classical cooking techniques. Without this knowledge it becomes hard to succeed, it becomes confusing. I still believe in the heritage of cooking and authentic recipes, however l do incorporate local influences into my food, hence the Bangkok Benedict.
What do you think is next for brunch in Bangkok?
Brunch in Bangkok will follow the trends of Australia and the UK where the standards are very high: great quality coffee, simple dishes, egg-focused, great tastes, with affordable prices. Bangkok will see even more cafes open in 2017 and 2018, and it will be interesting to see how many last. The surviving ones will be run by chefs who are classically trained and know how to cook and evolve in the global cafe scene.
THREE NEW DISHES: THE COFFEE CLUB gets Creative with a Longstanding Classic
THE COFFEE CLUB is a fixture in Australia's famous coffee scene and is now bringing that culture to Bangkok. Not content with resting on its laurels, the all-day cafe just launched three new declinations of eggs Benedict. The Bangkok Eggs Benedict (see left) adds a bit of hit to its Hollandaise sauce thanks to an infusion of roasted red chili. The Mushroom & Spinach Egg Benedict is a gluten-free and vegetarian option for the health conscious. Finally, and equally healthy, the Roasted Salmon & Spinach Eggs Benedict, is a tasty and innovative way to start your day.
Now available at THE COFFEE CLUB. 7 locations throughout Bangkok including Thonglor, Ekkamai, Wittayu, Silom, Ratchadamri, Sukhumvit Soi 49, and Charoennakorn. www.coffeeclub.com.au/thailand/
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