The soi at the center of it all. 

Sukhumvit Soi 23 might be home to the notorious Soi Cowboy, but head deeper and this curiously diverse street harbors everything from top-notch sushi to 70-year-old family restaurants.
 
 
 

See also: Here are all of BK's neighborhood guides


 

It's Happened to be a Closet 
 

Coffee & Breakfast 

Iwane Goes Nature (14 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-0350) is a mini oasis of greenery, roaming cats and fluffy ricotta pancakes (B185). For butter buns (B25), don’t miss neighborhood favorite Pak Bakery (96/8-9 Soi Sukhumvit 23, 02-258-1234). Pint-sized Feedpoint (88/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-101-6335) is jam-packed with some of Bangkok’s best bagels (B35/piece). For a quirky start to your day, head to bohemian-style vintage shop and restaurant It’s Happened to Be a Closet (124 /1 Soi Sukhumvit 23, 081-565-2026) for a full English breakfast (B390).

 

Le Dalat
 
Kua Kling Pak Sod 
 

Lunch & Dinner 

Le Dalat (57 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-259-9593) serves royal Vietnamese cuisine in an antique-laden teak house—be sure to check out the risque bathroom decor! Welcoming Italian joint Unico (20/2 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-259-9593) serves Napoli pizzas (B320) and lasagna (B350). Around since 1949, Bharani (96/14 Soi Prasarnmitr, Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-4454) is famous for its boat noodle soup (B130). Kua Kling Pak Sod’s (21, 32 Soi Sukhumvit 23, 02-259-5189) fiery southern Thai cuisine has gained attention from Gaggan; try the crab stir-fried with fresh chili (B380). In a striking 100-year-old house, The Local (32/1 Soi 23, 02-664-0664) serves up hard-to-find Thai recipes, while nearby Baan Kanitha (36/1 Soi Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-258-4128) offers tourist-friendly Thai fare. Slanted Taco (Soi 23, 02-258-0546) hits the spot with its homemade tortillas and classic margaritas (from B320). For some of the best hummus (from B120) in the city paired with shawarma wraps (B100/chicken, B120/lamb), stop by Rawabina (31/1 Soi 23, 092-820-2828). Get your burger fix at best-loved Chef Bar (Sukhumvit Soi 23, 080-052-7336) or Chunky (110/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 091-742-4094). Discover Japanese secrets Sushi Juban (120/26 Soi 23, 02-258-2813) for top-grade sushi; Uma Uma (31/9 Soi 23,  02-664-1130) for Hakata-style tonkotsu ramen (B220); and the ever-packed Mitsumori (47/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-640-8283) for some of Bangkok’s best soba noodles (from B230). Grab a terrace seat at Barcelona Gaudi (13 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-661-7410) to enjoy paella (B620/two people) and refreshing sangria (B250/B650).
 

Whisgars
 

Glow
 

Drinks 

For craft beers on an outdoor terrace, drop by Craft (16 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-258-0541), or for live sport screenings try The Clubhouse (1/1-3 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-1376) and Scruffy  Murphy’s (10 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 086-037-1107). Pullman’s Tapas Vino (30 Sukhumvit Soi 21 [Asoke]) offers wine and tapas, while Whisgars (16 Sukhumvit Soi 23,  02-664-4252) serves cigars from their walk-in humidor. Big nights can culminate in Glow (96/4 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 086-614-3355), or trance institution Narz (112 Soi Prasanmit, 02-258-4805). 

 

Accommodation 

Chodtayakorn’s (31 Sukhumvit Soi 23) pet-friendly apartments go for B100,000-180,000/month; while Wind’s (136 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-258-3330) start at B23,000/month. Buy a unit at the low-rise, high-end Rende (90 Sukhumvit Soi 23) for B5-12-million.

Visit 

Check out the Tuesday and Thursday market at Srinakharinwirot University for food, clothes, plants and more.
 

BK ASKS

What drew you to  Soi 23?

 

Lisa Faye Hames, designer/curator at Sabura Design

“This area is a kaleidoscope into Thai culture, from Soi Cowboy to local street food vendors to international eateries and clubs. I will pass tourists and neighbors simultaneously, making every day fascinating while at the same time familiar.”

 

Wannapa “Lek” Patthapanitchot, assistant CONDO MANAGER

“You can find everything you need in this soi from the best street pad kaprao to a good and honest foot massage. The street is very diverse and always busy—it’s impossible to get bored.”

 

Varesara “Bic” Smitasiri, owner of Khua Kling Pak Sod

“My parents actually met on Sukhumvit Soi 23, so it is very special to me. I was born and raised on Soi 23 so it holds a close place in our family’s hearts. It’s our home, and we wanted to share that feeling when we opened our restaurant.”

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