Behind a non-descript gate with only minimal signage sits this red Japanese-style house, belonging to the Ootoya restaurant chain. But unlike every other Ootoya branch in Thailand, this one has not been taken over by Central Restaurant Group, and it specializes in top-tier ingredients delivered by superknowledgeable servers. It also only focuses on a few specialties: yakitori (skewered chicken) and soba (buckwheat noodles).
The fresh ingredients star here, resulting in food that’s all but impossible not to love. That’s why the house is full with Japanese diners and why you really have to make a reservation to get a seat. At the open station in the middle of the house, the chefs work their magic over a charcoal grill, releasing just the slightest puffs of smoke to complement the warm and friendly atmosphere.
Their use of free-range chicken results in the firmer texture of all their yakitori, which ranges from neck (B90) and wing (B100) to thigh (B110) and offal (B90). One highlight is the perfectly seasoned and lightly glazed minced chicken B120). Naturally, there’s a solid list of Japanese beer (starting at B80), sake (starting at B390) and shochu (starting at B220) to go with.
The daily-made soba (B280) is also impressive, its freshness standing out even against the well-balanced soup. There are plenty of soba varieties on offer, both cold and warm. The quality of the ingredients is also well-reflected in the superb cold tofu (B140), which the restaurant claims to be made fresh every morning and goes really well with thinly sliced dried bonito fish, and the crisp mizuna (Japanese mustard) salad (B280), served with salted konbu seaweed.
The attention to detail continues at dessert. We really like the subtle almond notes in the annin tofu parfait (B150), well complemented by mango, and the slightly salty plum jelly (B150).
Mitsumori demands return visits—the only thing potentially holding us back is the need to book a table the day before. You might be better served heading there for lunch, when they do sets starting at B230.
This review took place in November 2015 and is based on a visit to the restaurant without the restaurant's knowledge. For more on BK's review policy, click here.