Flanked by Sathorn Soi 1 and Nanglinchee Road in the heart of Sathorn, the leafy back-alleys of Yen Arkart belie the business-like surroundings. There’s a tranquil European vibe to this area, where large colonial-style abodes sit side by side with sleek, modern condos and old-school town-houses. A slew of hot restaurant, gallery and cafe openings have put the neighborhood well and truly on the map for city-slickers seeking out the handful of reasonably-priced condos still on the market. 

You’ll find Suhring (Yen Akart Soi 3), the contemporary German restaurant that placed #1 in our Top Tables 2017 guide, occupying a beautiful old house with garden tucked off Yen Akart Road. It’s just one of a bunch of cool new openings, which also include Akart Bistro and Bar and the much-hyped Coffee Craftsman (both at Yarden, 30 Yen Akart Rd.). Other star attractions close at hand include the rustic Italian and awesome wine list of La Casa Nostra (22 Sathorn Soi 1) and the Michelin-worthy bites of J’aime (Sathorn Soi 1), while you’re more likely to regularly eat at down-to-earth haunts like The Corner, Mama Dolores and Nanglinchee Market (home to the excellent khaosoy of Eats Payao). Yen Akart’s sizeable French population are placated by the amazing baguettes and croissants of Amantee bakery on nearby Chan Kao Road, which is also home to BeatRoot spa and yoga studio. The drinking holes of Suan Phlu (Smalls, Junker and Bar) and Sathorn Soi 1 (Prum Plum Umeshu Bar) are a mere stumble away, while Sathorn Soi 10-12 and Silom require a quick taxi ride depending on which way you want to take your night. 

For those dreaming big, one of the more grandiose houses will run you B100,000/month. Luckily, there are also more practical options like Condolette Pixel Sathorn (Soi Si Bamphen)with studios starting at B13,000/month and Lanai Sathorn (297 Yen Akart Soi 2) with two-bedroom options at B65,000/month. Well-priced condos can also be found on Sathorn Soi 1 and Chan Road not too far from the action.

An afternoon stroll along Yen Akart reveals a serenity rarely found this far south of Ari—bicyclists at ease, homes with big yards and, well, more luxury cars than pedestrians. While some bigwigs evidently call Yen Akart home, there’s also a definite middle-class family vibe to the area—as one trip to Tops Yen Akart supermarket on the weekend will attest. 

On top of the very convenient BTS station, which can whisk you off to Sukhumvit in no time, Saphan Kwai is also home to the Om-sin Bank Headquarter (470 Paholyothin Rd.) where there's a large outdoor tennis court for hour rent. Plus, Chatuchak Park is just a 15-minute walk from BTS Saphan Kwai. 

Ratchatewi

Given its close proximity to Chulalongkorn University and the shopping mecca of Siam, Ratchatewi has long been a darling of students. But the affordable rental prices and burgeoning cafe and co-working scene have much to offer grownups too. The area, defined roughly from Huachang Bridge that crosses Saen Sab Canal from Siam to the intersection of Phayathai and Phetchaburi roads, may lack the leafy charm of nearby Ari, but it’s more central and quicky upgrading its lifestyle options.

Dining and Nightlife

Don’t expect too much in the way of fine dining, but you will find plenty of street food (for now, at least) and old-school shop-house restaurants, especially in Petchaburi soi 5 and 7 where student accommodation abounds. For Isaan food, try Jay Goi (Petchaburi Rd.) and its much-hyped yum pla dook fu (deep fried minced codfish with green mango salad, B100), or for Muslim bites order Roti Tae-or’s (Petchaburi Soi 7) yummy roti with beef curry (B30) and cha chaak (Muslim version of shaken milk tea, B30). There’s also been a boom in coffee culture, with hipster pioneer Casa Lapin (304/5 Phayathai Rd., in front of Evengreen Hotel) recently opening a branch here. Phra Athit’s pancake cafe Jaywalk also has a second spot at Cocowalk (89/35 Phayathai Rd.), a lively and unpretentious alley full of restaurants and bars that’s frequented by a younger crowd and comes alive especially at night. Sushi lovers can get their fill at two reliable names: the mid-price Sushi Masa (Soi Phayanak) or premium at Yellow Tail Sushi Bar (4/F, Vie Hotel, Phayathai Rd.)   

Accommodation

You’ll find endless apartments catered to student budgets (B5,000-10,000), but there are more up-scale options available too. Big property names in the area include Ideo, Supalai and Sansiri. One of the prime addresses is Pyne by Sansiri, which is located right in front of BTS Ratchatewi. A 30-sq-meter studio starts at B25,000 a month, while a 45-sq-meter one-bedroom starts at B30,000 a month. Compare this with B20,000 for a one-bedroom (42 sq meters) at The Address Siam (456 Phetchaburi Rd.).

Community

Aside from all the Chula kids, the neighborhood is home to a long-standing Muslim community, as evident from the large Darul-Ahman Mosque on Petchaburi Soi 7 (also home to some excellent Muslim food). Of course, you’ll also find plenty of tourists spilling out of Asia Hotel, Evergreen Place and Vie Hotel. 

What else?