BANGKOK RESTAURANT

Suhring

Twin chefs Thomas and Mathias Suhring go back to their German roots. 

5
Average: 5 (1 vote)
The buzz: Twin German chefs Thomas and Mathias Suhring left Lebua’s long-established Mezzaluna, opened a restaurant dedicated to German fine dining on Yen Akat Road, and created a local sensation. No. 1 in Top Tables in its guide debut; and still no. 1 a year later. If you had access to how our panel voted, you’d also see that their win is a walkover.
 
The food: Dishes such as brathering hausfrauenart and pfannkuchen are hardly duck confit and spaghetti carbonara in the familiarity stakes. But if the way Suhring renders them is anything to go by, then they should be. (The first, FYI, is a traditional German preparation for herring that the Suhrings serve with stunning simplicity, while the second is a sublime dough filled with truffle cream.) Skip the a la carte (Speisekarte) and dive straight for one of the tasting menus—Klassiker for hits like the upmarket takes on currywurst and pork knuckle, or Erlebnis for the chefs’ most up-to-date creations.
 
The vibe: Strikingly homey yet also refined. The setting in a generously portioned mid-century home round the back of Yen Akat Road retains its residential charm (note the warm, accidental details like a printed rendition of the Suhring family farm hanging on the wall), but also adds a striking open kitchen where the brothers work to the constant flicker of open flames. Its position in Michelin and Asia’s 50 Best ensures a steady international foodie clientele.

#1 in BK Magazine's Top Tables 2017. This is what a meal at Bangkok's best restaurant looks like:


The buzz: The debut restaurant of twin German chefs Thomas and Mathias Suhring follows their departure from Mezzaluna at LeBua and has been a hot topic among Bangkok’s foodie community. Not least because they’ve opened in partnership with Gaggan Anand—owner of the top restaurant in Asia's 50 Best two years in a row. 

The decor: The beautiful house on Yen Akart Road doesn’t mess with the building’s original floorplan, meaning that the space really maintains that dinner-at-someone’s-home vibe. Cookbooks line the shelves, scatter cushions invite you to get comfy on the banquette, and rustically landscaped gardens cocoon you from the outside world through floor-to-ceiling windows. The large open-plan kitchen sits at the back of the house, leaving some space for an intimate chef’s table. Head up to the mezzanine to sip on their spirits selection and listen to music.
 
The food: The chefs aim to introduce diners to a different perspective of German food that’s not just about hearty chunks of pork knuckle, sausages and sauerkraut—though these classics do make the occasional, playful appearance. For now, you can only opt for seven- (B1,800) or nine-course (B2,500) set menus, in which the chefs guide you on a journey through a series of small plates. German cooking methods like pickling and smoking are combined with modern gastronomic flair in dishes like the refined pork knuckle sandwich topped with Riesling sauerkraut cream and sous-vide Simmental beef, finished on a charcoal grill and served with comforting kasespatzle (German-style pasta cooked with cheese). We particularly like their simple salad of dried, grilled, pickled and raw vegetables. Brotzeit (literally, bread time) culture also plays a large part here, with homemade sourdough and soft pretzel served alongside Oldenburger butter, schmalz (lard), obatzda cheese dip, pickle, Black Forest ham and dry-aged beef. Their take on rice pudding sees jasmine rice topped with cinnamon espuma and cherry ice cream. 
 
The drinks: Ex-L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon sommelier Thanakorn Bottorff presides over a beautiful collection of old- and new-world wines, starting at an approachable B380 by the glass. His wine-pairing package will be added to the menu soon. 
 
Why you should care: Come here and you’ll see (and enjoy) how much there is to modern German cuisine. If the names of the twin chefs don’t already grab your attention, then remember they have this city’s top culinary badass, Gaggan Anand, as an investor too. 
 
 
 
 
Venue Details
Address: Suhring, 10 Yen Akat Soi 3, Yen Akat Rd., Bangkok, Thailand
Phone: 02-287-1799
Website: www.restaurantsuhring.com
Area: Sathorn
Price Range: BBBB
Open since: February, 2016
Opening hours: daily 5:30-9:30pm
Nearest trainMRT Khlong Toei
Reservation recommended, Parking available, Dress requirements: No flip-flops
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