Sushi Masa is a runaway hit. With some bloggers calling it the best sushi in Bangkok and TV crews swooping in on their heels, the original sushi counter and three tables has already had to expand, adding six more tables.

You’ll definitely need to make a reservation to snag a seat here. What’s all the fuss about? The prices are very reasonable (they’re net, too) and the quality is on a par with Japanese-frequented sushi bars. But unlike the stiff, sullen operations in Thaniya or other Nippon enclaves along Sukhumvit, there’s something eminently approachable about Sushi Masa. With big picture menus, relaxed staff and cheerful chefs behind the counter, who might even let you taste some grilled tuna tendon for free in a quieter moment, the vibe here is definitely laid-back.

Let’s get this out of the way, though, while very fresh, we don’t think Sushi Masa’s fish is perfect. In fact, if you don’t dip their sushi rice into the wasabi-soy puree first (as 99% of diners do), you may even detect a hint of fishiness on some cuts. But that’s really the exception, not the rule. And more importantly, the chunks of fish are huge, literally drooping over the sides of the rice. The execution, too, is remarkable. Even California or rainbow maki—purists be damned—are an absolute joy: crunchy, fresh, packed with ripe avocado and fish that doesn’t taste like leftovers.

Actually, it’s hard not to feel elated about the attention to detail in all the dishes here, particularly the head chef’s personal blow-torching of the beef or foie-gras piece by piece, cooking it to carefully-timed perfection. Another key point is the selection. Sitting at the counter, you can see that even the higher-end offerings (fatty tuna belly, Matsuzaka beef) get ordered frequently enough for stocks to turn over rapidly. And again, while this stuff isn’t cheap, it’s definitely cheaper here (four toro sushi and three salmon, B1,250, a “Matsu” set with four pieces of Matsuzaka beef and two of fish, B1,480).

Sushi Masa’s expansion means the original space is now a glass box within a glass box. It’s not the prettiest solution, and there’s really not much else going on in terms of décor. But with prices this good (sushi sets are from B220-330, green tea B20), easy BTS access and food this great, Sushi Masa doesn’t have to be perfect to put Fuji and Zen to shame.