Restaurants
Next, Next-Level Sushi
High-end Bangkok diners have spoken, and what they’re saying is: we want sushi, preferably spread over 20 courses to the tune of B6,000. Bangkok’s latest Edo-style omakase specialist,
Sushi Matsuo (G/F, No. 88, 88 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-712-7619), might do chef-driven sushi dinners at B6,500-12,800, but drop by at lunch and you can enjoy
bara chirashi (sushi bowls) at B2,200, made with red-vinegar sushi rice. It comes from the same people as next door’s Tempura Kanda, so meals include some of the highlights from there, as well. Over in Phloen Chit,
Sushi Zo (G/F, Athenee Tower, 63 Wireless Rd., 02-168-8490) began in Los Angeles, won a Michelin star, and now makes B7,000-8,000 dinners here that aren’t afraid to break from Edo tradition.
Euro Bistros are Back
But not as we knew them back in the days when Indigo was a hot new player. At the latest from the Vesper and Il Fumo people,
La Dotta (161/6 Thonglor Soi 9, 02-392-8688), a Sicilian chef rolls out perfect, sauce-holding tubes of
garganelli—best enjoyed with a summery coating of parma ham and peas (B360) and one of Thonglor’s best G&Ts (B320). Soho Hospitality (Above Eleven, Charcoal, Havana Social) is getting in on the bistro action too with
Brasserie Cordonnier (33/30 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 094-970-8599), as directed by a former J’aime sous chef. Wagyu beef tartare (B460), lobster bisque (B290), garlic butter snails (B390) and beef bourguignon (B520) are the stuff of Parisian bistros the world over.
Pancakes, Waffles, Fried Chicken and Burgers
New York magazine called the pancakes at New York-hailing cafe
Clinton Street Baking Co. (G/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-129-4861) the best in the Big Apple. Now it’s in Bangkok, in a greasy, all-American wave of Yankee diners that has also included the arrival of
IHOP (G/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-616-8000) and the latest partnership between Brew Beer & Ciders bar and Daniel Thaiger burger truck. At
Stax (2/F, The Commons, Thonglor Soi 17, 02-185-2472), grab yourself an old-school American fastfood classic of three flat patties, oozing cheese, zesty pickles and buns that won't give out on you half-way through (B320). Out of your way? Give Asoke’s
Bad Burger (2/F, Mix and Munch, Sukhumvit, 097-283-4598) a shot.
Michelin Madness
Here ye! Here ye! Michelin is coming to Bangkok. But you know that already. What you might not know is that, while we await the French foodie gods to bestow their culinary stars on our streets, this city just welcomed an outpost of Singaporean chef Chan Hon Meng’s
Hawker Chan (5/F, Terminal 21, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-002-0655). Thanks to being named in the last two editions of Michelin Singapore, his Hong Kong-style soya sauce chicken and barbecue pork is arguably the cheapest Michelin meal in the world at B88-120.
Rico
Spanish Invasion
Northern Spain's Basque cuisine of coal-grilled meats takes center stage at
Nan Charcoal Grill’s (1124 Narathiwas Soi 17, 081-939-8389) casual, soft-industrial dining room. Ownerchef Vimvadee Piyavanich and her team cook up Galicianstyle octopus (B450) and Iberico pork
presa (shoulder, B520) on a smoke-imparting Josper charcoal grill for delicious results. Central Embassy’s
Rico (6/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-119-7777) adds Moorish influence and alfresco views to its tapas-portioned Spanish dishes. The goat cheese churros (B280) alone are worth repeat visits. But neither of these is our favorite new Spanish opening. No. That lurks down the back of Thonglor, where a house-turned-restaurant whose name literally translates to “rice” in Spanish, vies for the title of best-paella-in-town (starting at B1,200 for seafood). If you’ve never eaten at
Arroz (112 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-258-7696), then you should.
Le Cochon Blanc
Bring on the BBQ
If one image sums up the first half of 2017 better than anything, then it’s a smoky rack of barbecue ribs with pink flesh falling from the bone. Over on Sukhumvit, follow the big, bright neon sign for
Le Cochon Blanc (26 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-662-3814), where chef Chandler Schultz cooks up smoked pork ribs (B180), steaks (B1000 per 350g) and even lobsters (B1700). On Thonglor, Game Over Lounge has swapped Meat & Bones for
Hickory (Sukhumvit Soi 55 [Thonglor], 02170-7684), whose 5-6-hour-smoked, long-bone ribs (from B430 for 450g) come glazed with sweet honey bourbon sauce.Just as exciting is the rooftop of Chinatown’s hipster haunt FooJohn (see page 8), where the former Deli-Q food truck crew run new smokehouse
SpareParts (3-4/F, FooJohn, 831 Charoen Krung Soi 31, 087-593-9973).
Sri Trat
Local Produce Rules
The shop-house opposite Gaggan is now home to
Gaa (68/4 Soi Lang Suan, 091-419-2424). Here, his former sous-chef, Garima Arora (also an alumni of Noma), exclusively serves tasting menus (B1,800 for eight courses/B2,400 for 12 courses) of Southeast Asian ingredients with a nod to the pure, modern produce-driven cooking culture of Northern Europe. Equally as bold is the new foodie venture from the Rabbit Hole team, who are banking on the talents of a young Texas-hailing chef called Riley Sanders. At
Canvas (113/9-10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 [Thonglor], 099-614-1158), his globally inspired recipes using top local ingredients are already winning over the city’s biggest foodie names. Chef Jason Bailey of Paste hailed it as one of the most exciting new kitchens in town. More traditional but no less exciting,
Sri Trat (90 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-088-0968) has made reservations essential thanks to focusing on one of the lesser-known regions of Thai cuisine: the eastern provinces, especially Trat, where they source a whole load of the produce from. Don’t miss the Eastern staple of
moo chamuang (stewed pork belly with chamuang leaves, B220) in a setting of azure leather sofas, rich teak paneling and pop-art murals.
Nightlife
Chinese Fetish
It began with a candlelit, Chinese-themed cocktail bar next door to Peppina called
Dim Dim (27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-085-2788). But it didn’t take long for others to follow its oolong tea-infused whiskey sours and chrysanthemum vodkas. Over on Charoenkrung,
FooJohn (831 Charoen Krung Soi 31, 085-527-3511) took over an old Chinese corner shop-house with an awesome mix of French wine bar and Wong Kar-Wai-referencing patterned wallpapers, while in Chinatown proper,
Ba Hao (8 Soi Nana, Maitri Chit Rd., 064- 635-1989) gets the requisite look of Hong Kong cool through neon Chinese letters and stools that spill onto the street. Its negroni spiked with ginseng and herbal liquor (B288) is also one of our favorite cocktails right now.
Duke
Ballers Only
If you were worried the 0.1 percent might not have anywhere to drink in 2017, you shouldn’t have been. The Water Library people got the ball rolling first off with
Duke (1/F, Gaysorn Village, 999 Phloen Chit Rd., 080-587-9520), where you can buy Dutch beer at B400/bottle and French, cherry-wood aged, single-malt whiskey for B600/shot while surrounded by contemporary art. The Anantara Siam also welcomed a new spot, a railway carriage-themed whiskey bar called
Character (Anantara Siam, 153/2 Mahatlek Luang Soi 1, 02-254-4726) where yearly membership of B165,000 gets you a B200,000 tab at the bar—along with other goodies.
Bad Taste
Trash Talking
Bad taste was good taste at the start of 2017, when every new party spot started to look like a scene from
Motel Mist. Thonglor hipster den Badmotel shed its crisp white look in favor of
Blaq Lyte’s (331/4-5 Sukumvit Soi 55, 098-253-9356) neon bulbs, pink paint and backpacker hostel wall scribblings, while over on Ladprao,
Bad Taste (24/36 Lad Phrao Soi 21, 094-290-3299) drew out clued-in young things who like their craft beer with a side of dank memes. Nearby on Chatuchak,
Trailer Trash Blue Eyes (3/15 Soi Vibhavadi Rangsit 36 Yaek 5, 086-996-0095) looks exactly the same.
Gin Gin Gin
How can it have taken this long for someone to notice Bangkok only has one proper gin bar? Thanks to
Just A Drink Maybe (4413 Thonglor Soi 1, 02-023-7285) Thonglor got exactly what it was crying out for, courtesy of a Taiwanese bartender who knows his London dry from his genver. With its easy-going vibe, this is a gin specialist bar that's not just for the know-it-alls, either. Our pick: the AO Show (B300), a mix of chamomile-infused Brooker's Gin, sweet white vermouth, Creme de Cacao Blanc and simple syrup—potent and packed with flavors.
Shhh! It's a Secret
The Old Town’s new secret hangout,
Ku Bar (469 Prasumen Rd., 02-067-6731) is so secret that they only put out chairs for a half-dozen people. But those lucky few who can find it (tip: in an alley down the side of Brown Sugar), get to sip on cocktails created by Anupas "Kong" Premanuwat, who worked as a mixologist at New York's acclaimed Angel's Share speakeasy (home to the current Bacardi Legacy global champion, Gn Chan). Then there's the new
Cocktail Bar (Central Embassy, 88 Wireless Rd., 02-012-1234) at Park Hyatt hotel, where a bar-within-a-bar hides behind a wall of walnut wooden paneling.
SHOPPING
Menswear Rules
Things got very dapper on one corner of Soi Ari this year, when Japanese shirtmaker
Kamakura (The Decorum, Ari Samphan Soi 5, 086-533-5255) arrived in town sporting its perfect cotton button-downs and easygoing linens. The space might look like it fell out the pages of Monocle, but don’t worry—at B2,950-3,250, you can actually afford this stuff. To go with that new shirt, make an appointment at
Keaton Tailor (Soi Chaemchan Thonglor Soi 20, 097-042-4265), which is again run by the Japanese but this time turning out perfectly tailored, madeto- measure suits. With prices starting at B12,000, you’d be a fool not to. If streetwear's more your thing, then head over to Silom, where
B Store (2/F, 1/8-9 Sala Daeng Soi 1. 02-235-4711) has some of the best cult menswear labels in town, displayed in a chic, minimal setting right beside the Bangkok Screening Room.
Forget About The Mall
Not only are all three of those menswear stores very cool, but they’re also standalone boutiques. And they’re not alone. All the hottest shops this year have been opening outside the mall and bringing a splash of color to our streets. Other highlights include
Uncon (331/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 099-195-2262), which takes over Knock Thonglor’s space with over 30 fashion names, among them cult local brands like Sneaka Villa, Missile and 9Face as well as Italian leather bag purveyors Solar Milano.Put aside B49,000 for a pair of Yeezy Boost 750s. Over on Ekkamai,
Fablab (126/43, Sukhumvit Soi 63, 094-323-3555) is home to 35 young
Thai designers from Facebook and Instagram, while Siam Square has the candy-colored, whimsical stylings of
Daddy & the Muscle Factory (Siam Square Soi 11, 063-894-6954).
ART & DESIGN
Creative Megaprojects
This year, design and culture are hot; as long as they come in the form of huge, Duangrit Bunnag-endorsed megaprojects where designers can stretch their creative legs. At the new, long-awaited
TCDC (2/F, The Grand Postal Building, 1160 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-105-7400), means a materials room where you can get your hands on the very best local fabrics, woods and composites, as well as a space dedicated to 3D printing. But this isn’t just for designers: membership for anyone costs a co-work-spacebeating B1,200/year, and grants you access to a desk, excellent Wi-Fi and the TCDC library. As if that weren’t enough for Chanroenkrung, Mr Bunnag is also expanding his Jam Factory empire with the opening of
Warehouse 30 (Charoenkrung Soi 30, see opposite), which is set to slide open its rusty iron gates any day now. Inside, you’ll find screening rooms, bookstores, cafes and organic vegetable sellers. Even the other side of the river’s getting in on the action, with Thonburi’s
Chang Chui (460/8 Sirindhorn Rd., 081-817-2888) —a collection of boutiques, restaurants and art galleries so cool that, on its opening night, it welcomed 20,000 people and so much traffic that the neighborhood combusted.
Central Embassy's Shining Moment
Central Embassy mall's huge revamp of its top floor has transformed the area next to its VIP cinema to become
Open House (6/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-119-7777): 180-degree views of Bangkok, a whole lineup of the city’s top foodie players (count Peppina, Broccoli Revolution and Mugendai), and one of the best art bookstores we’ve ever visited. In fact the
Hardcover (4/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5977) bookstore takes over an entire side of the project, which it shares with a
co-working space overlooking the city. Dig deep on the upstairs mezzanine to root out cool, limited-run photo annuals imported straight from Tokyo.
Work off all that booze with these latest ways to stay fit in Bangkok
1. Fighting
Muay Thai legend Jareonthong Kiatbanchong has expanded his boxing gym to a new branch on Tanee Road, close to the popular backpacking street Khao San. On top of the flashynew indoor gym, Jareonthong Muaythai Khaosan also offers a rooftop training area with a perfect view of Wat Chana Songkram temple and Bangkok’s Old Town. Courses vary from beginner to advanced, plus ancient Muay Thai and Muay Thai Waikru classes. Drop-in class fees are B600 for 1.5 hours or B1,200for a private session.
168/3 Tanee Rd., 02-629-0060
2. Riding
Hot on the heels of Tribe, the city’s latest spin studio Ryde offers high-intensity cardio workouts fit for both beginners and
advanced cyclists. Burn up to 500kcal riding to the rhythm in one of their 45-minute classes. Drop-in prices are B950 per class, but there are also packages starting from B9,500 for 10 classes—or if you’re quick enough, you can sign up for a free trial ride on their website.
251/1 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2823
3. Climbing
Bangkok just welcomed its most ambitious rock climbing gym yet, thanks to the same team who are behind Manila and Singapore's Climb Central branches. Sitting in a lofty warehouse out on Kallapaphruek Road (that's on the Thonburi side, about 10km from BTS Wutthakat), Climb Central Bangkok features gnarled walls and overhangs for all abilities, along with on-site instruction if you need it. Walk-in entry for unlimited climbs within one day costs B600 for adults and B500 for youths (first-time registration fee and equipment fee included).
10/2 Kallapraphruek Rd., 092-250-0790
4. Driving
Thailand's first electronic go-kart circuit has opened by the lake in Muangthong Thani. The B600-million Impact Speed Park is home to 30 Sodi RTX electric karts imported from France that race along an 800-meter track whose route will be changed regularly. Run on eco-friendly electric batteries, the karts are capable of reaching a maximum speed of 60km/h.
Adults are B600 per eight-minute session and kids 7-14 years B480.
Tiwanonpakkred 36 Rd., Nonthaburi, 02-055-8900
