Penthouse Bar + Grill
This five-star hotel restaurant and bar does drinks at sub-Thonglor cocktail lounge prices.
The multi-story showpiece steakhouse atop the Park Hyatt goes all out. The interior of walnut woods and marble is stunning. The menu of red meat and seafood jumps straight to the premium stuff. The cocktails hit the price-to-quality sweet spot. This is prime date-night material.
The buzz: Bangkok’s hottest hotel opening, Park Hyatt, plays host to three tiers of restaurants and bars perched high above the city. In all, Penthouse Bar + Grill comprises six venues: The Grill restaurant for chowing down on premium beef and a chef's table that's only accessible through the kitchen on the 34/F; The Bar for sipping on wine, a whiskey-specializing speakeasy and a VIP mezzanine on the 35/F; and a garden-styled rooftop terrace for knocking back alfresco cocktails overlooking Phloen Chit.
The decor: All the walnut woods, marble, tufted leathers and cut mirrors paint a very masculine picture, an effect that interior design company AvroKo rams home with glass cabinets displaying vintage racing paraphernalia and light fixtures that repurpose motorcycle parts. Details abound in every darkened corner, whether it's the carved wooden ceilings sourced from Chiang Mai that adorn the intimate window nooks (no bookings) or a neon light-entangled naga that guards the speakeasy. Though the different sections each boast their own character, it all feels of a piece thanks to a layout that flows seemlessly around a central staircase, in keeping with the hotel's own spiraling design.
The food: The marble-clad restaurant does, as you'd expect, a mean line in red meat, from US Prime chateaubriand tenderloin (280g, B1,890) to Australian grain-fed ribeye steak (300g, B1,650) up to Japanese Matsunaga A5 wagyu striploin (150g, B2,950). Seafood, too, covers premium options like Hokkaido scallops (B1,090) and Canadian lobster (B2,150). Heading down the price scale, you'll find tender grilled spring chicken (B650) and confit pork belly (B690). Have your protein with adept steakhouse sides like the hi-so truffle mac and cheese (B250) and the grilled broccolini with smoky hazelnut romesco sauce (B220). Add a fennel salad (B390) for a fresh, fruity burst of pear, pomegranate and arugula. They even have a few creations made especially for vegans, like the eggplant steak with miso glaze and garlic teriyaki (B690).
The drinks: Firstly, prices are not as crazy as you might have imagined. At B180 for a Little Donut (yogurt-infused gin, stevia syrup, apple and soda), you’re looking at sub-Thonglor cocktail lounge prices at a five-star hotel rooftop. For something punchier, try the rooftop's signature Penthouse Paloma (Patron Silver tequila, pomelo juice, oolong tea syrup, fresh lime, fentiman's grapefruit tonic; B350). Downstairs, a separate menu features the light and frothy Pisco 34 (B390), which mixes mixing Deomonio De Los Andes pisco, Poire Williams eau de vie and Peychaud bitters with Earl Grey tea, apple juice, lime juice, egg white and a hefty dose of pandan syrup. The wine list offers a wealth of options at under B2,000/bottle, while the speakeasy boasts 120 whiskey labels from all the big regions.
Why we'd come back: It's been a long time coming, but Penthouse doesn't disappoint on quality or price. The 36th-floor rooftop is one of those properly grown-up hotel bars Sukhumvit's been screaming out for. Carl Dixon
Entrance to The Whiskey Room
|Address:||Penthouse Bar + Grill, 34-36/F, Park Hyatt, 88 Wireless Rd., Bangkok, Thailand|
|Price Range:||BBB - BBBB|
|Open since:||July, 2017|
|Opening hours:||daily 11am-9pm|
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