Penthouse Bar + Grill
This five-star hotel restaurant and bar does drinks at sub-Thonglor cocktail lounge prices.
The multi-story showpiece steakhouse atop the Park Hyatt goes all out. The interior of walnut woods and marble is stunning. The menu of red meat and seafood jumps straight to the premium stuff. The cocktails hit the price-to-quality sweet spot. This is prime date-night material.
The buzz: Bangkok’s hottest hotel opening, Park Hyatt, plays host to three tiers of restaurants and bars perched high above the city. In all, Penthouse Bar + Grill comprises six venues: The Grill restaurant for chowing down on premium beef and a chef's table that's only accessible through the kitchen on the 34/F; The Bar for sipping on wine, a whiskey-specializing speakeasy and a VIP mezzanine on the 35/F; and a garden-styled rooftop terrace for knocking back alfresco cocktails overlooking Phloen Chit.
The decor: All the walnut woods, marble, tufted leathers and cut mirrors paint a very masculine picture, an effect that interior design company AvroKo rams home with glass cabinets displaying vintage racing paraphernalia and light fixtures that repurpose motorcycle parts. Details abound in every darkened corner, whether it's the carved wooden ceilings sourced from Chiang Mai that adorn the intimate window nooks (no bookings) or a neon light-entangled naga that guards the speakeasy. Though the different sections each boast their own character, it all feels of a piece thanks to a layout that flows seemlessly around a central staircase, in keeping with the hotel's own spiraling design.
The food: This restaurant welcomed a new head chef in 2022, Australian Benn Rowe, whose background is packed with steakhouse-style restaurants such as being the sous chef at Rockpool Bar and Grill in Perth. A must-try is the wagyu Denver steak (B2,100). It’s special because this cut was only really discovered about eight years ago, found underneath the shoulder blade bone, and it takes skill to remove. There’s only about 1kg of this cut on the cow as well. Other must-tries are the wagyu beef carpaccio (B520) that comes with crispy capers, parmigiano reggiano and truffle aioli that’s perfect as a starter, and for non-beef eaters there’s the Tasmanian salmon that comes with refreshing coriander and lime puree with spring vegetables (B960).
The drinks: Here you’ll find three floors with completely different vibes. The 34th floor will feed you steak, but head up to the 35th floor (or up the rooftop if you feel like some night-time outdoor atmosphere) where you can get strong drinks. Leading the drinks program is the French-Japanese Sabine Delettre Nakamura who has a passion for art and literature. The signature cocktails are inspired by icons like Ernest Hemingway (orange-infused Appleton dark rum, Maraschino liqueur, date honey shrub, lime juice, pomelo juice, egg white, B440) and George Clooney (Wild Turkey bourbon, passion fruit, popcorn syrup, aromatic air, B440). If you are a negroni drinker but never feel your negroni is strong enough, grab the La Madona Sophia Loren.
Why we'd come back: It's been a long time coming, but Penthouse doesn't disappoint on quality or price. The 36th-floor rooftop is one of those properly grown-up hotel bars Sukhumvit's been screaming out for. Carl Dixon
Entrance to The Whiskey Room
|Address:||Penthouse Bar + Grill, 34-36/F, Park Hyatt, 88 Wireless Rd., Bangkok, Thailand|
|Price Range:||BBB - BBBB|
|Open since:||July, 2017|
|Opening hours:||daily noon-3pm, 5:30pm-2am|
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