What does farm-to-table mean to you?
It’s about being aware­ of what we eat­­—the ability to trace back and see the whole journey of our food. I heard that some kids today don’t even know what papaya looks like. They think it’s a square block, just like the one sold in supermarkets.

Why be a farmer?
Most farmers never appreciate what they do and always push their children away to do something else. I didn’t want to leave my parents’ land and I think farmers can be cool and creative.

What are the difficulties?
You need to be dedicated to your farm, and adding value to your farming business is important. I’ve enjoyed success with my organic farm, but I also help other farmers to achieve this as well. And in order to do that, they need to see that it’s possible and that they can connect to the organic market, at least, through me. Many have been brainwashed and still stick to the same idea that they need pesticides for their products. Another difficulty is the certification, which costs a lot for them, but I think it will bring the promise of more customers down the line. It’s an investment.

Do you think the local market understands what you’re doing?
We had some rough times in the beginning because not everyone is into organic products, until we found Bo and Dylan, from Bo.lan, who carefully seek out the best produce for their customers.

Do you think organic is a growing trend in Thailand?
I think the idea of organic is growing rapidly, but many places just use it as a gimmick, which could lead to customer misunderstanding. There are deceiving terms like “natural food” or “safety food” that people should be aware of. Many people also complain about the high prices of these healthy products, but actually, they are set according to supply and demand. Organic food should be in a normal price range, but it doesn’t happen because most people want the products quicker and choose that over quality. I really wish that more people would join this trend now. Many care about it only after they get ill or are dying, when it’s too late.

Photo by Chiawen Lin

What are the benefits of having your own farm?
Freedom. You get to see the food you are going to eat and know where it came from. You’re continually learning every day from the plants and the situations that arise.

What are the difficulties?
Farms require consistency.

Do you think local markets get what Pun Pun is doing?
Many thought we were crazy. We are an organic seed-saving farm and also teach courses, so that you can experience and learn sustainable-living techniques, including farming organics, making a house from sundried mud bricks, yoga and much more. But to create understanding as a farmer, you just have to do it. What we’ve learned is that it’s much more effective to do what you feel is right and then open yourself up for people to come and learn from it. If people can see it themselves, that is the best way to learn. You can talk all day about how people should change to organic, but this way, they’ll learn much more.

What’s going on with Pun Pun restaurant?
Our goal for the restaurant is to help support other organic producers by providing more of a market. We try to bring a mixture of local vegetables into more modern recipes to see how these can be eaten in different ways.

Do you think the idea of organic farming is a growing trend in Thailand?
It’s important that Thailand maintains a strong rural farming society, but in order to do that, they need support and more understanding from consumers.

Supporting and utilizing local farmers is far and away the hottest dining trend in the world. While it was modern techniques that put El Bulli on the map, today’s No. 1 restaurant, Noma (in Copenhagen, Denmark) is particularly famous for how it only uses ingredients that originate from within a 100km radius, and only when they are in season. The trend, it seems, has finally reached Bangkok’s kitchens. But many Bangkokians still dig imported ingredients from Maine lobster to French fine de claire oysters. And there’s scant appreciation for chefs trying to search out the best local ingredients. We talked with those chefs who either grow their own produce, or make a concerted effort to use local products, and the farm owners that supply them.

“Farm-to-table, for me, simply means a direct line between the people producing food and our kitchen. It’s a personal relationship between us and the farmers,” says Chef Dylan of Thai restaurant Bo.lan. To him, it is about freshness, ethics, the humane treatment of livestock and the promise of sourcing the best for the customers. That’s why Dylan tries to deal with mostly local farmers: “It’s even better because we’re working together and can therefore dictate, so to speak, the produce that we would like. He [the farmer] gets a guaranteed income, and we get lovely, nutritious food.”

On an even more direct level, Chef Ian Kittichai is now experimenting with growing his own produce in the backyard of his restaurant Issaya Siamese Club, from morning glory to wild betel leafbush to butterfly pea. You can spot these home-grown ingredients in dishes like pla pak ruam (mixed vegetables in spicy salad) or shrimp and minced pork salad and the results are truly outstanding. Chef Ian actually started getting local farmers growing produce in a way that fitted his organic philosophy more than 10 years ago. Today, when the opportunity arose, in term of the space, he leapt at the chance to grow his own produce in the restaurant. Kittichai says “The benefits are being able to grow what you want to use in your food. To be able to ensure the quality and have produce that maybe isn’t easy to get.”

Chef Nhoi from Parata Diamond also grows some of her own ingredients. In addition to getting better vegetables, she believes the garden has a psychological impact on her staff. “They appreciate the produce more. I can see when they’re washing something, like bergamot leaf, they do it with a kind of care I’ve never seen before.” Of course, the actual growing process can be a difficult task. With unpredictable weather, not every crop comes out perfectly or on time, but still, Chef Chalee Kader of Surface stays positive, “There are no limitations on cooking. We just have to keep it moving. Creativity defies limitations.” To Chalee, the setbacks and delays only increase the joy of sharing and appreciating the end products.

The bigger the scale, the bigger the difficulties when it comes to organic farming. The farmers Chef Dylan knows are “tired, happy but tired. It’s hard work running a good farm, using natural techniques and caring for your land. It’s not like you can close the front gate and say ‘Oh, we’re closed today, so everything stop growing and stop eating. I’ll be back in two weeks after I’ve had some rest.’” Do we Bangkokians realize that? Or do we even care? Some of the chefs like Chef Ian think that “the farm-to-table concept is something that is fundamental, so it isn’t hard to comprehend.” Chef Chalee, too, believes that Thai people should understand and appreciate it because it’s part of Thai culture to have pak suan krua (literally “vegetables from garden to kitchen”).

Others, like Chef Tee of La Table de Tee, realize the long-term benefits to both their customers and to the economy. “I’m supporting the farmers and the local market. My dishes, for example, my pumpkin risotto, reflects the color and the abundance of our farms. Without them, I wouldn’t have interesting products with this quality.”

Chef Nhoi, admits to feeling let down when customers don’t seem to care or notice the difference but appreciates the value in terms of taste, and the benefits to local agriculture. “Why should I buy some Australian beef that has been sitting on a plane for six hours, when I can buy fresher beef from Korat that tastes even better for what I’m cooking? I also get to support our local economy too,” she says.

Farm to Table Organic Café not only grows their own vegetables, in Phu Chee Fah, but they also take it further, making ice cream from their own produce—pumpkin, potato, carrots, strawberry that are guaranteed by IFOAM (International Foundation for Organic Agriculture). Just like other people we talked to, owner Jirapat Jianrungsang says, “We started this with our hearts and we really want others to feel it, too. We want them to eat fresh and eat delicious.”One of their biggest issues is that the customers don’t understand why organic products cost more. “But we’re confident in what we’re doing. We are as organic as it’s possible to be. It’s getting clearer and clearer every year that more people get us, and that’s a great thing.”

Essentials

Bo.lan
42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-260-2962. www.bolan.co.th.
Parata Diamond
396 Ekamai Soi 24, 085-167-6489
Issaya Siamese Culb
4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chua Ploeng Rd., 02-672-9040-1. www.issaya.com
La Table de Tee
69/5 Saladaeng Rd., 02-636-3220. www.latabledetee.com
Farm to Table Organic Cafe
B/F Central Rama 9, 9/9 Rama 9 Rd., 081-868-9942
Surface
107 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-258-7597

Interview: Jon Jandai

Interview: Lalana Srikram

Interview: Chef Alfonso Iaccarino

Farmer’s Market