Khao chae, with its mix of sweet and deep-fried treats, and its jasmine-scented ice-cold water, is both serious comfort food and efficent protection from the heat. “It actually has a genuine cooling effect on the body. Chinese food is oily, which provides insulation from the cold. But in this case, the sweetness combined with the cool water and aroma work together to lower your internal temperature,” says celebrity TV chef Yingsak Jonglertjesdawong.

While many argue that this side dish is the most traditional in Thailand, it is actually quite hard to pinpoint its specific origins. According to Ampornsri Pornpithakdumrong, an expert in Thai royal recipes, “After King Rama V brought khao chae back from the Mon people, his family and other aristocrats adopted it and it spread around the country. Different palaces like Wang Bang Khun Prom and Wang Suan Sunandha developed different recipes, and the dish evolved.”

Today, the three most famous variants are the royal recipe, the Phetburi one and the original Mon recipe. Despite variations you can normally expect the following in your khao chae: luk kapi (dried fish and shrimp paste balls), hom daeng yud sai (stuffed shallots), prik yuak sord sai (stuffed sweet peppers), shredded sweet pork, carved vegetables, pla wan (sweetened fish) and chai poe phad kai (stir-fried preserved turnip with eggs).

But like lots of Thai dishes, today’s khao chae is often made by taking shortcuts and lacks the necessary attention to detail, especially with the rice. Yingsak says, “People just throw the rice in the jasmine-scented water and it becomes very soggy.” In fact, the proper process takes three days. “First, you soak the rice with jasmine flowers overnight, then with ylang ylang flowers. Then you smoke it with ob candles,” says Ampornsri.

Today’s khao chae might not be made strictly to tradition, but its very surival is a testament to its greatness. “It’s wonderful that people are still thinking of it,” says Yingsak. “Restaurants are still serving khao chae to new generations. It’s admirable that they don’t just go for something new and trendy. We really have to save this tradition. If you eat a beautifully carved fingerroot with khao chae, you don’t want microwaved convenience store food anymore.”

KHAO CHAE SPOTS Where to Get Chilled

Bussaracum (B250)

Their khao chae arrives with elaborately presented carved vegetables.
1 Soi Pramual, Si Wiang Rd., Silom, 02-630-2216-8. Open daily 11am-2pm, 5:30-10:30pm

Than Ying (B295, lunch only)

A recipe created by M.C. Sulapwanleng Wisuthi during the reign of Rama VII’s reign. Reservations recommended.
10 Soi Pramuan, Silom Rd., 02-236-4361. Open daily 11:30am-10pm

Khao Chae Raan Pa Tib (B170)

This sweet grandma sells khao chae out of her home. Her recipe is also M.C. Sulapwanleng Wisuthi’s, and she says she used to work in her kitchen.
Call (one day in advance) and pick up at Coutier Club Bld. (next to Sukhothai Palace), Samsen Rd., 02-241-3188. Open daily 9am-6pm

Khao chae mae tong yod (B35)

A Mon recipe passed down for 200 years.
Koh Kred, in front of Wat Poramaiyikawas School, 084-543-5411. Open Sat-Sun and holidays 10am-5pm

Patara Fine Thai Cuisine (B450, lunch only)

Their own recipe.
375 Thonglor Soi 19, 02-185-2960-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm

Thiptara (B420)

The recipe was passed down to Chef Chamnan Thepchana from the aristocratic, Malakul family. Some of the ingredients like jasmine flowers are grown in the chef’s own garden.
G/F, The Peninsula Hotel, 333 Charoennakorn Rd., 02-861-8888. Open daily 6am-10:30pm

A Little Something

The course: Originally for kids, they’ve finally relented and let the grown-ups in for select workshops. The program usually changes every month from cupcakes, macarons, New York cheesecake or chocolate truffles. Or you can ask them to set up your own private class. Taught in English and Thai.
The price: B1,900/two dishes (3 person class or B2,600 for one-on-one). Usually, it takes about 2-3 hours for one dessert.
Room 422, 2/F, Racquet Club Building 4, 165 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-762-7899, 089-142-1108.
Room B2, The Circle, Ratchapruk Rd., 02-863-8795. a-littlesomething.com

Vanilla Industry

The course: Vanilla always has impeccable design, but they’re just as serious about their baking and chocolate-making. Workshops cover all of Vanilla’s most-loved dishes, ranging from soup and pasta to desserts like lemon jelly mousse cake or blueberry yoghurt polka dot roll cake. Taught in Thai.
The price: B4,500 for three desserts. B6,000 for four desserts.
422, 422/1-3 Siam Square Soi 11, 02-658-4720. BTS Siam. www.vanillaindustry.com

Mothergoose

The course: This cute, small school is run by a Le Cordon Bleu graduate who quit her job in marketing to get her hands dirty. Here, what we like is their Saturday course which teaches three desserts. This Apr 7, learn to make mille-crepe cake, tapioca pearl & coconut mousse and Florentine. She also teaches a 3-day bread course to make French baguette and Shibuya honey toast. Taught in Thai.
The price: B4,800 for Sat course. Bread course is B15,000 for 12 recipes in 3 days.
102/202 Laddarom Village, Rattanatibet Rd., 02-922-0920, 081-843-7808. www.mothergoosesweet.com

Imperial Bakery and Food Culinary School (IBAF)

The course: After more than 50 years of being in the bakery business, the makers of Imperial cookies and Allowrie butter decided to share the joy. A basic dessert course is from one day to five days and includes muffin recipes (for the day-course) or nice recipes for cakes (for the three-day course). Kids welcome, too. If a cute café happens to be your dream, IBAF also has an SME bakery package which includes all the basic things you need to know to run a shop. Taught in Thai.
The price: Bakery starts from B2,800-B5,500. SME bakery package starts from B40,000.
2312-2314 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-741-4718. BTS Punnawithee. www.ibaf.co.th

UFM

The course: UFM too auntie for you? Well they must be doing something right since they’ve lasted for more than 30 years now. The shortest class duration here is two days, which include classes like soft cakes, soft cookies and many more simple recipes. Most classes are on weekdays so get ready to rub shoulders with housewives. Taught in Thai.
The price: Bakery starts from B3,200 for two days and B2700 for three days.
593/29-41 Sukhumvit Soi 33/1, 02-259-0620-30, 02-260-5280-300
Bakery House Building, 180-184 Siam Square Soi 1, 02-252-7286, 02-252-7520. www.ufmeducation.com

Verasu

The course: The kitchen accessories dreamland Verasu is hosting a cooking demonstration. For 2-3 hours, you will get lectured (in Thai) on the techniques involved in making desserts like mango cheesecake, banoffee cake, lemon mousse bar, mocha frap or blueberry ice cream cone pie.
The price: It’s free of charge. All you need to do is bring a notebook.
83/7 Wireless Rd., 02-254-8100-8. Lectures mostly on Wed and Sat but check details at www.verasu.com

Le Cordon Bleu

The course: The school started off mainly with professional courses at high prices. But now, more and more short courses are taught, such as a basic chocolate workshop (one day), macarons (one day) and chocolate cakes (four day). Taught in English with interpreter in Thai.
The price: The 1-day course starts from B8,000 and a 3-day course starts from B19,000.
1/F, The Dusit Thani Building, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-237-8877. www.lecordonbleudusit.com

Palm House

The course: Japanese cakes are soft, light and naturally sweet. To get you in on the trend, Palm House offers courses on popular Japanese desserts like short cake and cream puff for starters, and scone and cheese cake for the intermediates. Courses are taught by Japanese instructors with interpreters in Thai and English.
The price: Basic course starts from 6 days at B8,100.
The Prestige 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-260-2853-55. www.palm-house.co.th