Sor Boonprakob is a near-legendary shophouse in Bangrak that has been serving khao niew moon since Rama V’s reign. Story goes people used to queue up here long before the craze for sticky rice and mango. Their beautifully shiny sticky rice (B150 for a kg) manages to be fatty and creamy without being soggy or overly sweet.
In front of Charoenkrung Soi 44, Charoenkrung Rd., 02-235-3442. Open daily 5am-7pm
The vast piles of mango at Maewaree take up half the sidewalk, but it’s their sticky rice from Chiang Rai that really quickens our pulse. The perfectly cooked khao niew moon (B190 a kg) is soft and flavorful, thanks to the excellent coconut milk used here. This is probably our absolute favorite in town, for its texture (not too mushy) and perfect balance of flavors. Don’t forget to try their assorted toppings such as the smooth, fragrant sangkaya (B35) or the mixed option (pla hang and dried shrimp, B50).
1 Sukhumvit Soi 55 Thonglor, 02-392-4804. Open 24/7, khao niew moon only available 5am-11pm. www.maevaree.com
The 80-year-old institution is a household name for its sweet sticky rice. The people at Kor Panich claim that the recipe has been taken from the royal kitchen where the owner’s wife’s mother used to work. And the standard they’ve been holding on to is that the sticky rice must be the popular khao niew kiew ngoo type, the coconuts must hail from Chumphon and the sugar from Kanchanaburi. Plain khao niew B160 per kilo, single portions with toppings B30.
431-433, Tanao Rd., 02-221-3554. Open Mon-Sat 7am-7pm
Another member of the Kor Panich family, as the name suggests, this shophouse is owned by the daughter of the recipe’s owner at Kor Panich. After her mom passed away, she decided to open her own place and took the recipe with her. Both places are similar although the sticky rice (B160 a kg) is a bit more tender, and sweeter, here. It’s really a question of taste which one you prefer.
250/5 Samsen Rd., Tewet, 02-281-7838. Open daily 7:30am-8pm
For over 30 years, Maliwan Kanom Thai has been making fresh Thai desserts. Popular for its ta go (Thai pudding topped with coconut) and kanom mun (tapioca mixed with flour and topped with young coconut), it also sells giant buckets of khao niew moon (B180 a kg).Their sticky rice is quite soggy, due to copious amounts of rich coconut. That’s not to our taste but it’s clearly popular as they often run out before lunch.
2/9, beginning of Ari Soi 1, 02-278-1179. Open daily 9am-3pm
Once you’ve tried every sticky rice champ in town, you might want to give this colorful variety a shot (B160 a kg). Chor Sornkeaw stands out from the crowd thanks to its nine-color rice, depending on whether it has been sweetened with turmeric, rose, butterfly pea or pandanus. It’s not just about looks, though. This rice tends to be lighter, its flavors balancing themselves nicely with the coconut milk toppings. Chor Sornkeaw also serves its khao niew moon with a wider selection of fruits, such as longan, durian and lychee (B25-160).
23/500, Chok Chai 4 Soi 54, Lad Prao, 02-931-0000, 02-931-0005. Open daily 6am-9pm
Journalist, blogger and author of Bangkok’s Top 50 Street Food Stalls.
“I think the best khao niew moon is at Mae Nong Nut in Hua Hin. The rice is perfectly creamy yet still sticky, and the coconut milk is of such high quality. But if we’re talking Bangkok, I’ll go with everyone else and say you can’t go wrong with Maewaree.”
Food blogger, host of food show Food & Health Gang and author of a soon to be published cook book.
“My favorites are the ones from Kor Panich and Mae Nong Nut opposite to Hua Hin market. For Kor Panich, I love its taste and its texture, because although it’s soft it’s not mushy and it’s not overly sweet. And since it’s been open for many decades, it has a real vintage charm to it.”
Chef at Parata Diamond.
“I just love the balance of the pandanus, coconut and sugar at A Mad Ros Dee (1217 Rama 9 Rd. Soi 39, 081-811-4601). The best part is that I can sense each individual rice grain in every bite and it stays that way no matter how long it sits there. I even snack on it when it’s a day old. I’m working on a sticky rice and mango dessert myself, but I’m happy to leave the ‘mooning’ technique to the masters.”
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The Venice of the East has all but turned its back on the river. While it was once unthinkable to develop a hotel anywhere other than on the Chao Phraya, the past couple of decades have seen hoteliers favor Silom, Sukhumvit and Siam, while standalone ventures have flocked to hipster enclaves like Ari and Thong Lor. Even more recently, the suburbs seemed to be on the rise, with far-flung openings like Chocolate Ville and Mega Bangna pulling in the crowds. But now we’re seeing a surge of exciting projects on the banks of the river, either new, about to open or slated to open in the next few years. Could this be a renaissance for the River of Kings? Here’s what we have to look forward to.
This deluxe hotel, comprised of just 38 villas and suites and one exclusive cottage, is set to be one of Bangkok’s most luxurious when it opens this June. With rates from B16,000-B46,500, the sophisticated design comes courtesy of celebrated designer Bill Bensley (Indigo Pearl Phuket). While the antiques come from the owners’ personal collection, as the Sukosol family (Siam City Hotel), and particularly celebrity Krissada Sukosol Clapp, have a keen interest in Thai art. There will be four dining spots. The most awaited is Chon, which will be set in a traditional Thai house formerly owned by Jim Thompson before it was moved to its present location.
3/2 Khao Rd., 02-206-6999. www.thesiamhotel.com
Phra Athit Road, the historic and touristy riverside hot spot, will soon welcome a new venture by the Chao Phraya Express Boat Company people. The Riva Surya’s six-story hotel holds 68 rooms, with rates set to start from B3,300. Making generous use of dark woods, it mixes retro and contemporary touches for an updated “colonial” vibe. For us locals, try the bistro bar Bubble & Rum, which acts as both a garden tearoom during the day and serves basic dishes from steak to pad Thai at night.
23 Phra Arthit Rd., 02-633-5000. www.rivasurya.com
This is the bed and breakfast sister of Arun Residence, so you can expect the same kind of simple, old-school decoration with plenty of wood, old framed photographs and brass fans—plus a stunning view of Wat Arun on the opposite bank. We love how every room has a small balcony space for you to get closer to the river and read your morning paper while overlooking the Temple of Dawn.
47-49 Soi Ta Tien, Phraborommaharajchawang, 02-622-2932. www.salaarun.com
Located near the river, Int is a 4-rai community mall operated by a member of the Inthraphuvasak family (importers of luxury cars, such as Porsche). Opening this month, its boasts 6,000 sq meters of retail space crammed with 37 stores and restaurants like Pancake Café, After You, True Coffee and a second branch of famed grilled duck eatery Prajak.
Between Rama 3 Sois 38 and 40, 02-369-3610. www.int-intersect.com
This hotel may be on the Chao Phraya, but it is a long way downstream, in Bang Krajao (technically in Samut Prakarn). Unlike The Old Bangkok Inn (www.oldbangkokinn.com), the owner’s other property which celebrates the city’s heritage, Bangkok Tree House (www.bangkoktreehouse.com) is a cluster of three-story suites in very green surroundings. Its clean-cut architecture combines mineral (metal, glass and lots of mirrors) and organic (wood and bamboo) materials to perfection. Ideal for a staycation, we recommend you book a spot on the rooftop deck of its Reflect restaurant, where you can sit on bean bags and order a high tea set while you enjoy the view. Suites are B6,000, inclusive of breakfast, Wi-Fi internet, free ice-cream and bike rentals.
60 San Phawut Soi 23, Phra Pradaeng, 02-995-1150. www.bangkoktreehouse.com
The Chao Phraya Express Boat Company—yes them again—will start work on this project in August. Located on a two-rai plot by the river (on Maharaj Road, where a branch of S&P currently stands), this community mall aims to relocate the amulet sellers on the surrounding streets to new air-con digs, complete with an exhibition space. The remaining 50 percent of the area will host cafés and restaurants. The mall intends to focus on life on the river, with regular departures of tour boats and dinner cruises. The designs will be created by Contour Company, who previously did J Avenue and Rainhill.
78/24-29 Maharaj Rd., 02-623-6001-3
Phase one of Chang Beer’s Charoen Sirivadhanabhakdi’s 70-rai super project on Charoenkrung Road is now open. The themed retail riverfront area, dubbed Asiatique The Riverfront, occupies 28 rai, with the remaining 42 rai set to be developed as hotels, condos and more retail space over the next 5-10 years. The new mall is themed according to the city’s architecture of old and is divided into several sections: the Charoenkrung District counts over 1,000 boutiques not unlike the old Suan Lum Night Bazaar; the Town Square combines Eastern and Western culture with a variety of eateries like Dib Dib (from Pla Dib), Checkmate, Capri and Kacha Kacha; an outdoor activity square, the Factory District, is set in a 100 year-old refurbished sawmill with over 500 fashion stores; and, finally, the Waterfront highlights the unique setting, with international restaurants, wine bars and panoramic views of the Chao Phraya. The gigantic venue is also home to five stages which will welcome extravagant shows from cabaret girls and the award-winning Joe Louis puppet theater to the famous transgender extravaganza by Calypso Bangkok.
2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-108-4488. www.thaiasiatique.com. Shuttle boat from BTS Saphan Taksin leaves the pier every 15 minutes.
Developed by the Sena Development Company, this B500 million project is not by the river but it is within spitting distance, on Charoennakorn Road. It’s another community mall, with 100 shops spread over four stories and featuring all the usual suspects: Villa Market, iStudio, Starbucks. A range of restaurants will occupy at least 50% of the space.
540 Charoennakorn Rd., 02-863-6181-2. www.senafest.com
The Canali is being launched by first-time developer, Charcoal, so it might take a while for such a bold project to take off. Renderings show crystal clear canals running through a community mall with giant terraces suspended above it all, offering sweeping views of the Chao Phraya. The project is slated to combine serviced apartments and a condo alongside the retail space.
Rama 3 Rd. www.thecanali.com
The privately-listed Country Group Development Plc (CGD) is new but its first project is nothing if not ambitious. With a B12 billion (US$396.8 million) budget, this 36-rai riverside development will include the Capella Hotel (101 rooms), Capella Residences Condominium (352 units), and the Jumeirah Hotel (305 rooms). The land was formerly occupied by the Fish Marketing Organization, on Charoenkrung Road, and will be leased from the Crown Property Bureau for 75 years.
Charoenkrung Rd. www.countrygroup.co.th
Siam Piwat (Siam Centre, Siam Discovery), CP Group, and Magnolia Quality Development have just joined forces to develop a B35 billion, 40-rai mixed-use project in Charoennakorn on the Thonburi side of the river. Siam Piwat, the operator of Siam Center, will own a 50% stake in the venture, while CP and Magnolia will own 25% each (but the latter is actually owned by Tipaporn Chearavanont, the youngest daughter of Dhanin Chearavanont, who is CP Group chairman). While details have yet to be finalized, you can expect a retail plaza and residential condos. Work is set to begin early 2013. The Bangkok Post quoted Ms. Tipaporn as saying, “We want to create a physical and emotional landmark, something that can really enhance Bangkok’s status in the region and the world. An iconic landmark on the river can move the city forward like Paris, London and Shanghai.”
Charoennakorn Rd., across from the Mandarin Oriental Hotel.
Although not renowned for being particularly fashionable, Lumpini Development Group has shown itself hip to the riverside trend. Its condo project there comprises four 36-story towers and is more than 70% complete. Prices start from B1,290,000 with rooms ranging from 26-105 square meters. Expect a private garden right on the river’s edge, topped off with a pier for easy access to water transport.
Sathupradit Rd., Rama 3. 02-689-6888. www.lpn.co.th
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