Supporting and utilizing local farmers is far and away the hottest dining trend in the world. While it was modern techniques that put El Bulli on the map, today’s No. 1 restaurant, Noma (in Copenhagen, Denmark) is particularly famous for how it only uses ingredients that originate from within a 100km radius, and only when they are in season. The trend, it seems, has finally reached Bangkok’s kitchens. But many Bangkokians still dig imported ingredients from Maine lobster to French fine de claire oysters. And there’s scant appreciation for chefs trying to search out the best local ingredients. We talked with those chefs who either grow their own produce, or make a concerted effort to use local products, and the farm owners that supply them.

“Farm-to-table, for me, simply means a direct line between the people producing food and our kitchen. It’s a personal relationship between us and the farmers,” says Chef Dylan of Thai restaurant Bo.lan. To him, it is about freshness, ethics, the humane treatment of livestock and the promise of sourcing the best for the customers. That’s why Dylan tries to deal with mostly local farmers: “It’s even better because we’re working together and can therefore dictate, so to speak, the produce that we would like. He [the farmer] gets a guaranteed income, and we get lovely, nutritious food.”

On an even more direct level, Chef Ian Kittichai is now experimenting with growing his own produce in the backyard of his restaurant Issaya Siamese Club, from morning glory to wild betel leafbush to butterfly pea. You can spot these home-grown ingredients in dishes like pla pak ruam (mixed vegetables in spicy salad) or shrimp and minced pork salad and the results are truly outstanding. Chef Ian actually started getting local farmers growing produce in a way that fitted his organic philosophy more than 10 years ago. Today, when the opportunity arose, in term of the space, he leapt at the chance to grow his own produce in the restaurant. Kittichai says “The benefits are being able to grow what you want to use in your food. To be able to ensure the quality and have produce that maybe isn’t easy to get.”

Chef Nhoi from Parata Diamond also grows some of her own ingredients. In addition to getting better vegetables, she believes the garden has a psychological impact on her staff. “They appreciate the produce more. I can see when they’re washing something, like bergamot leaf, they do it with a kind of care I’ve never seen before.” Of course, the actual growing process can be a difficult task. With unpredictable weather, not every crop comes out perfectly or on time, but still, Chef Chalee Kader of Surface stays positive, “There are no limitations on cooking. We just have to keep it moving. Creativity defies limitations.” To Chalee, the setbacks and delays only increase the joy of sharing and appreciating the end products.

The bigger the scale, the bigger the difficulties when it comes to organic farming. The farmers Chef Dylan knows are “tired, happy but tired. It’s hard work running a good farm, using natural techniques and caring for your land. It’s not like you can close the front gate and say ‘Oh, we’re closed today, so everything stop growing and stop eating. I’ll be back in two weeks after I’ve had some rest.’” Do we Bangkokians realize that? Or do we even care? Some of the chefs like Chef Ian think that “the farm-to-table concept is something that is fundamental, so it isn’t hard to comprehend.” Chef Chalee, too, believes that Thai people should understand and appreciate it because it’s part of Thai culture to have pak suan krua (literally “vegetables from garden to kitchen”).

Others, like Chef Tee of La Table de Tee, realize the long-term benefits to both their customers and to the economy. “I’m supporting the farmers and the local market. My dishes, for example, my pumpkin risotto, reflects the color and the abundance of our farms. Without them, I wouldn’t have interesting products with this quality.”

Chef Nhoi, admits to feeling let down when customers don’t seem to care or notice the difference but appreciates the value in terms of taste, and the benefits to local agriculture. “Why should I buy some Australian beef that has been sitting on a plane for six hours, when I can buy fresher beef from Korat that tastes even better for what I’m cooking? I also get to support our local economy too,” she says.

Farm to Table Organic Café not only grows their own vegetables, in Phu Chee Fah, but they also take it further, making ice cream from their own produce—pumpkin, potato, carrots, strawberry that are guaranteed by IFOAM (International Foundation for Organic Agriculture). Just like other people we talked to, owner Jirapat Jianrungsang says, “We started this with our hearts and we really want others to feel it, too. We want them to eat fresh and eat delicious.”One of their biggest issues is that the customers don’t understand why organic products cost more. “But we’re confident in what we’re doing. We are as organic as it’s possible to be. It’s getting clearer and clearer every year that more people get us, and that’s a great thing.”

Essentials

Bo.lan
42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-260-2962. www.bolan.co.th.
Parata Diamond
396 Ekamai Soi 24, 085-167-6489
Issaya Siamese Culb
4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chua Ploeng Rd., 02-672-9040-1. www.issaya.com
La Table de Tee
69/5 Saladaeng Rd., 02-636-3220. www.latabledetee.com
Farm to Table Organic Cafe
B/F Central Rama 9, 9/9 Rama 9 Rd., 081-868-9942
Surface
107 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-258-7597

Interview: Jon Jandai

Interview: Lalana Srikram

Interview: Chef Alfonso Iaccarino

Farmer’s Market