Nakara Jardin

Tucked deep down a soi behind Ping Nakara Hotel, Nakara Jardin is a sweet secret hideaway. From the parking lot, take the pathway through a French-style garden to the white house with its terrace overlooking the Ping River. The man behind this cute café, Chef Pom, an engineer-turned-chef, lived in Bangkok for four years where he worked at 4 Garcons and studied at Le Cordon Bleu Dusit Culinary School, before returning to set up his dream venue. His home-style European dishes aren't the biggest servings but are pretty satisfying: braised lamb shanks with cumin & tomato (B550) or spaghetti with tiger prawns and Provençal tomato sauce (B180). Dessert here is a must, too, particularly the raspberry and lemon curd (B120) and hot chocolate fondant (B160). As for tea, they stock Singapore brand Gryphon (from B85 per pot).

Open Thu-Tue 11am-7pm. 11 Soi 9, Charoenprathet Rd., Chang Klan, 053-818-977

Tichaa Tearoom

After selling tea for a while, leading Thai spa brand HARNN finally decided to open Tichaa Tearoom in its hometown. Located on Nimmanheamin Soi 17, Tichaa boasts a pleasant tearoom where guests can sip herbal tea amid richly colored art pieces. The architecture and interior take their cues from the great cultural journey along the silk roads that pass through Japan, China, Northern India and Eastern Europe to Northern Persia. There is also an outdoor dining area and second floor that’s set to be guesthouse, as well as small rooms for special functions. Their most popular teas are Jasmine Candle Scented White Mulberry Tisane, Ylang Ylang Candle Scented White Mulberry Tisane and Kaffir Lime Candle Scented White Mulberry Tisane. All tea starts at B110 per cup. As for treats, try their sai aua croissant (B120) or kanomjeen pu (rice noodles with crab, B320) paired with your tea selection.

Open daily 11am-midnight. 16/1 Nimmanhaemin 17, Soi Jumpee, Nimmanhaemin Rd., Suthep, 092-2692776

Kalapela

Established by a Thai designer and a Japanese partner, Kalapela is a shophouse-turned-tearoomcum-hotel-cum-wine bar finished in a Lannameets-Zen style. The place is a peaceful retreat where you can choose to recline in the wooden high back chairs or log stools in the beautiful garden. Come inside to experience the owners’ attempt to create a “living” museum in a contemporary style. Kalapela is full of antiques and art pieces that have been collected from travels all over the world, mostly from the East. You can also sample some 80 teas from everywhere from Japan, China, Singapore, Hong Kong to France. When night falls, Kalapela transforms into a wine and sake bar where you can drink till late. They are also planning to operate as a very small hotel with only two rooms from November. Rates start from B3,750.

Open daily 9:30am-10pm. 145/6 Ratchdamnoen Rd., 081-634-2245. www.facebook.com/kalapelatea

Akha Ama

After the success of their first branch, Akha Ama recently unveiled its second opening on Ratchadamnoen Road, close to Wat Phra Singh, the most famous temple in town. In expanding from the first small venue, Lee Ayu Chuepa, the Akha owner, decided to turn this into a serious coffee venue complete with an in-vogue industrial interior. “I want to bring people closer to the process of making coffee. Once they understand just how hard people work to come up with great coffee in my home town, Mae Chan Tai in Chiang Rai, they will understand how it is important that we all do what we can to improve their livelihoods,” Lee explained. “I want the tribal people who grow coffee, like my family, to enjoy better lives.” Every morning, when the scent of freshly roasted coffee fills the venue, it’s hard to argue with this noble aim.

Open Mon-Sat 8am-8pm, Sun 8am-10pm. 175/1 Ratchadamnoenroad, 086-915-8600. www.akhaama.com

Gelabar

Gelabar stands out from other places in this densely-packed café neighborhood by offering up delicious Italian-style gelato. Many of the icy selections are made from fresh fruit, but more indulgent fare comes in the form of full desserts like the hot cake with Ferrero ice-cream (B75), strawberry cheese pie with ice-cream and yogurt (B85) and crepe chocolate lava crème brulee (B60). The place is pretty small with only 10 seats, so be prepared for a long wait on weekends. 

Open daily 11am-8pm. Nimmanhaemin Soi 3, Suthep, 081-881-9144

Into the Woods

This cute café will appeal to lovers of fairytales, from the name to the walls adorned with scenes from a mysterious woods along with famous characters like Little Red Riding Hood, Cinderella and Sleeping Beauty. In one corner is a big bookshelf which serves as a free library for visitors. Apart from the classics, the literature includes popular Japanese manga Detective Conan and all four series of famous Thai novel Suparburoot Jutathep. Feed your stomach as well as your mind with recommended desserts like the colorful roll cake served in blue, pink, brown or green (B50). They also plate up proper dishes, too. 

Open daily 9am-8pm. 191-193 Sriphum Road, 081-531-7793

Saenkham Coffee

After the success of their Saengkham Terrace restaurant, the management decided to convert the first floor into a new coffee joint under the same name. The place really is stunning, too, as they installed wickerwork details from floor to ceiling. There are also handicrafts and pottery from hill tribes and the occasional art exhibitions on show, too. Situated some 20 minutes’ drive from the city center, the views here are of scenic rice fields with the mountains as the backdrop. The only con is there’s no air-con.

Open daily 11am-10pm. 199/163, Clubhouse Ban Naifan 2, Maehia, 053-838-990 

Chan Nueng Cafe

This popular coffee venue has moved to a new place after their old lease ran out. The new all-white cafe is much smaller than their old cafe-and-bed and they don't run a small guesthouse anymore. Basically, Chan Nueng Cafe is now a meeting spot for old fellas to catch up over a familiar cup of coffee. 

Open daily 9am-9pm. Nimmanhaemin Soi 3, Suthep, 088-493-4379

Kab Khao Ban Hao by Laab Ban Ha

Though it may look a bit too cute to be a proper restaurant, when it comes to taste, Kab Khao Ban Hao serves up the true flavors of Northern cuisine. Despite being born from the notion that the best Northern food is found on the street. Kab Khao Ban Hao looks different to other traditional restaurants, as it blends chic white brick walls with wicker lamps. The menu contains a long list of lesser-heralded Northern dishes like hum jiin (braised beef in curry, B68) and saa sadung (Northern beef salad, B68). But you can’t go past the Ruam Khon Mueang (B128), a delightful selection of Northern treats such as sai oa (Northern sausage), nam prik num (green chili paste), nam prik ong (pork and tomato paste), cap moo (crispy pork skin) and boiled vegetables. 

Open daily 11am-8pm (closed on the second and the fourth Monday every month). 51 Sirimangkhlachan Rd., 086-6567599, 088-2613057. http://on.fb.me/1ac8QN6 

Little Lanna

This new joint might just serve the most chic Northern food in Chiang Mai, as they shake off the wooden house look to put a modern spin on Lanna decor through details like wooden umbrellas and khit (triangle pillows). There are three distinct areas boasting different style seating, from long benches to proper dining tables, all accompanied by a just-about-passable popsanova playlist. The menu here takes in both fusion fare such as Lanna Gyoza (B95), tempura nam (B80) and laab omlet (120) and classics like khao soi with tofu and boiled egg (B80). They have tea and also cocktails if you’re in the mood to celebrate. Speaking of which, the dessert is a must: try the fried banana with homemade ice-cream in flavors like mango, coconut and banana.

Open daily 11am-10pm. Nimmanhaemin Soi 7, Suthep. 082-388-3993

Kanomjeen Khunnai Mae

This kanomjeen (rice noodle) place sheds the old Lanna-style décor for a more modern, colorful vibe. Though situated a bit out of the city center, it’s still well worth a visit as it’s a true house of kanomjeen. Here, they serve various types of nam ya (rice noodle curry) that range from traditional Northern recipes like the nam ngiew to nam ya pu (crab curry), nam ya pa (spicy soup), kati khai pla salid (coconut curry with leaf fish eggs) or nam ya pa Korat (Nakhon Ratchasima recipe) and nam prik goong meung petch (Petchaburi recipe). Each nam ya set comes in at B40. Their sides like khao soi, som tam and pork satay are tempting, too. 

Open daily 8:30am-9:30pm. Mahidol Road (next to Varee Chiang Mai School), 085-677-0558.

Beer Republic

Beer Republic has quickly become one of the most popular night spots in Chiang Mai town thanks to its cozy Tuscan-style atmosphere and wide selection of beer. Their draught beer options span as much as 15 choices—enough to put most pubs in Bangkok to shame. Apart from all the household names, Beer Republic offers up a bunch of more esoteric drops, such as Kostritzer Black Lager, Morland Old Speckled Hen Ale, Weihenstephaner Vitus Weizen-Bock and Schneider Aventinus Duppel Bock, Tap 6. Prices start from B120, but those looking to experiment can opt for the Beer Experience set with five (B250) or 10 selections (B500) of draught beer. The place also has a surprisingly well-balanced food menu, taking in both Western and local treats. Apart from grandiose options such as oysters from France and Brewer’s pork knuckle, they serve up tasty “time-forgotten food” for beer lovers like tod mun pla hed (fish cake, B120) or gaeng phed ped yang (grilled duck in lychee red curry, B150). Not to your taste? Neighboring El Patio, a new Italian restaurant, is also forging a name for its grill-heavy menu which includes hot-stone steak. They are planning to open a Cuban cigar room this November.  

Open Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight. 28 Nimmanhaemin 11, Suthep, 053-216-568, 081-531-4765, www.beerrepublicchiangmai.com

The Arch

This small bar draws in foot traffic through the brick arch gate at its entrance. A venue for serious drinkers, you won’t find a long list of cocktails or beers here as the focus is on whisky, particularly single malt. Expect all the famous names like Balvenie, Macallan, Glenlivet, Laphroaig and Glenfiddich, including plenty of special editions. The lineup includes Glenfiddich 19 (B350 per shot), Macallan Select Oak (B290 per shot) and Glenlivet 21 (B450 per shot). Don’t expect a bustling atmosphere here as the clientele are mostly working guys and gals, as well as noise-hating expats looking for an intimate place to sip and hold court. 

Open daily 6pm-midnight. 18, Soi Nimmanhaemin 11, Suthep, 081-783-5240

Mixology 

This new joint stands out from others in town by offering a charmingly rustic ambience, with its bare-brick walls, wooden tables and beautiful bric-a-brac collected by one of its partners, Bee, who used to work as a restaurant consultant in London. “We noticed that Chiang Mai didn’t have a bar where people could come to sit and chat with friends as early as they like and for as long as they want. So we decided to open up this day-to-night bar,” she says. The drinks here are mixed by one of the partners who is a self-trained mixologist from their time spent in London. A lot of fancy ideas go into the drinks’ names, too—Love Me Love My Dog, Chiang Mai Chanee Berry and Lost in the Fruit Garden—all of which start from B180 a glass. The mixology idea extends to the food, with offerings like the Chiang Mai Burger (B130), which comes with a Northern-style laab patty made with rice, and potato skin with nam prik ong (B120). Thinking about renting a bike to get around? You get 10% off if you park your ride here.

Open Tue-Sun 11am-midnight. 61/6, Arak Road, Phrasingha, 088-261-3057, 083-070-6190

Sala Lanna Chiang Mai

Set on the bank of the Ping River, Sala Lanna offers a peaceful location with a narrow entrance cutting you off from the bustling road. This neighbor of the famous Vieng Joon On teahouse has 15 rooms and one villa with a fairly basic modern décor enlivened by Lanna touches in the form of textiles and wood furniture. The most impressive part would have to be the two bedroom pool villa suite which sits right by the river giving you a glimpse into the slow life on the water. Their two restaurants, Sala Lanna Eatery and Bar and Italia, also offer scenic views of the river, while the roof bar goes one step further providing an al fresco panoramic view that incorporates Chiang Mai town. We fell in love with their afternoon tea set (B580), which isn’t only served with a boring scone but comes with mango and sticky rice as well as roti stuffed with banana. If you plan to be in town around Loy Krathong (Nov 17), Sala Lanna offers deals like B700 for drinks and khomloy (lantern) and B1,500 (Eatery & Bar) or B1,900 (Italia) for dinner and a DIY krathong course. Room rates start from B4,563 for a standard to B32,588 for a pool villa suite. Early bird bookings 30 days in advance get a 10% discount.

49 Chareoenrat Rd., Muang, 053-242-590. www.salaresorts.com/lanna 

X2 Villa Chiang Mai

This newly opened addition to the X2 family sets itself apart in that it’s actually a rental five-bedroom pool villa. Set in the heart of Chiang Mai town, this half-wood-half-cement building is a big modern-Lanna house with two separate buildings hugging an eight-meter-long swimming pool flanked by colorful daybeds. All rooms are decked out in a minimal style, with some artsy Lanna touches such as the earth-tone pallette. On top of the swimming pool, the facilities include a living room and fully-equipped kitchen. There is a backdoor that opens onto Wat Loke Molee, one of the most beautiful ancient temples in town. The price for the whole facility is B17,500 for a maximum of 12 people. You’ll have to be super-quick, though, if you want to book it for your Loy Krathong party.

Maneenopparat Rd., Muang, 02-168-7533 ext. 305, [email protected], www.x2lobby.com

Artel Nimman

It's hard not to spot Artel Nimman with its white slide flowing down from the second floor into the front yard. Having opened its doors back in June, the hotel has a whimsical playground-like charm with art pieces at every turn. This starts from the right wing of the building, where the reception is hidden behind a hexagonal beehive-like steel door decorated with geometric-shaped broken floor tiles, and continues onto the curved steel bedheads and circular windows for each room, as well as the colorful capsule-like bathrooms. There are 13 rooms under four categories: The Balcony, The Terrace, Garden Studio and Mini Studio. High-season prices are B1,700, B2,000 and B2,300 for standard, deluxe and suites, respectively. Be warned, they don’t serve breakfast anymore—fortunately, the Nimmanhemin area has plenty of food choices.

40 Nimmanhaemin 13, Suthep, 081-594-6233, www.facebook.com/TheArtelNimman

Makka

Designed by Urban Architect, the boutique Makka Hotel gets its name from the term in Buddhist teachings for the eight ways to be liberated from suffering. True to its name, booking into this hotel is like getting lost in a peaceful sanctuary in the center of Chiang Mai. There are two pavilions—one in black which serves as the lobby representing the human world and one in white representing the tranquility of heaven. Surrounded by trees, the 22 rooms (superior and deluxe) and four suites of the two-story building are decked out in a contemporary Lanna style, with walls adorned with paintings of lotus, the symbol of enlightenment in Buddhism. Be warned, there’s no full-course restaurant at this stage (they only serve a la carte breakfast and some lunch dishes). Still, the superb location means you can walk to Wat Phra Singh Wat Chedi Luang in 10 minutes, as well as the walking street at Tha Pae Gate, where impressive sights and delicious food await.

Makka Chiang Mai. 18 Soi 8 Phrapokklao Rd., Phra Singh, Muang, Chiang Mai. 053-281-636, www.makka.co.th

Essentials

There are daily flights from Bangkok to Chiang Mai. At the time we checked online, Nok Air (www.nokair.com) offered the best rate at B4,398 for a round trip. AirAsia (www.airasia.com) is B4,466 and Bangkok Airways (www.bangkokair.com) is B4,740.

Low-cost airlines have revolutionized travel in the region, making it easier and cheaper than ever. But our love for AirAsia, Tiger Airways and Nok Air might have blinded us to the competition, particularly from what is called “last-leg flights”—direct regional flights departing from Bangkok which are not offered by regional airlines. These flights offer all the comforts of a traditional carrier—meals, miles, higher baggage allowance—at prices comparable to (and sometimes even better than) the low-costs.

What Are They?

International airlines flying to Bangkok from outside of the region occasionally continue on to another Southeast Asian destination. For example, a flight from Lufthansa might depart from Frankfurt, stop in Bangkok and then continue to Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam. That second part of the flight is what’s called a last-leg flight and because some of the passengers will have gotten off in Bangkok, the airline is eager to pick up new passengers here for the second part of the trip. That’s why tickets on last-leg flights tend to be fairly cheap.

The Benefits

Last-leg flights are not always cheaper than 

low-costs, although that can be the case, particularly when booking at the last minute, when low-costs tend to get more expensive. But even at similar, or slightly higher prices, they come with all the perks of a regular carrier: a choice of seat, free meals and free 20kg baggage allowance (as opposed to having to pay for 15kg on a budget airline). The final point is slightly down to where you live but all of these flights leave from Suvanabhumi Airport rather than Don Mueang. Still it’s definitely a nicer airport, has better duty free and the option to get there via the Airport Link.

Where to Find Them?

You can use all the usual booking engines, such as Expedia (www.expedia.com), routehappy (www.routehappy.com) and hipmunk (www.hipmunk.com), which provide you with comparisons of all the flights flying from Bangkok to your destination.  At that point, you can either book through that website or double-check the carrier’s own website. If you’re just curious about what cities Bangkok has direct flights to, and who offers them, routehappy.com is your best bet. (You’ll see an option towards the bottom of the homepage called “Nonstops from your city.”) But it can also be a good idea to subscribe to the newsletters of those airlines who routinely offer cheap last-leg flights from Bangkok, such as Lufthansa.

HANOI

Qatar Airways

B8,110

Qatar is flying to the lovely Vietnamese city of Hanoi nearly every day for the coming weeks, with flights leaving around 1pm and arriving around 3pm. Check out flights QR614 or QR828. www.qatarairways.com

HO CHI MINH CITY

Lufthansa

B5,505

This flight is only available three days a week but what a price! The flight will leave Bangkok at 4:25pm and arrive at 6:05pm. Tickets must be purchased seven days in advance. www.lufthansa.com

Turkish Airlines

B6,048

Named the best airline in Europe by Skytrax in 2012, Turkish Airlines is one of our favorite ways of getting to Europe (we’d much rather stop off in Istanbul than Dubai). It’s also got this fairly good deal from Bangkok to Ho Chi Minh City (takeoff 4:15pm). Hurry, this deal ends Oct 31 (for the outbound flight, you’ve got a bit more time to get back). www.turkishairlines.com

KUALA LUMPUR

Lufthansa

B5,510

Flying Mon, Wed and Thu with a departure at 4:25pm and arrival at 7:40pm, this flight is becoming a bit of a worst-kept secret for travelers wishing to reach the Malaysian capital on a dime, but without putting up with AirAsia’s no-frills comforts. You need to purchase the ticket in advance for seven days. www.lufthansa.com

HONG KONG

Emirates

B8,240 

(from Nov 1)

Daily direct flights from this much-loved airline that makes even economy feel comfy. Flight EK0384 operates a giant Airbus A380-800, meaning you can also go jogging in the aisles. www.emirates.com

Kenya Airways

B8,480

Not that well known in this region Kenya Airways are actually a very solid carrier with a decent fleet. It’s a bit more expensive than Air Asia, but it does come with more perks. www.kenya-airways.com

GUANGZHOU

Kenya Airways

B11,090

For not even B1,000 more than AirAsia, Kenya Airlines is offering a direct flight to the largest city of Guangdong province. www.kenya-airways.com

SINGAPORE

Cathay Pacific

B8,475

Despite being Hong Kong’s carrier, Cathay also operates daily direct flights from Bangkok to Singapore. The flight codes, to look for are CX713 to Singapore and CX712 on the way back. www.cathaypacific.com

Note

While accurate at the time of writing, prices and flight codes change all the time.

I dreamed of being a teacher and never had any other option in mind. Teachers, back then, were seen as the smartest people. They impressed me. Many of my seniors at school were also scholarship students who came back to teach juniors like me. They were so cool. They were my inspiration.

I fell in love with stage plays during my university years. It’s the thing I’ve had the most passion for, apart from being a lecturer. I was always part of the plays my faculty would stage.

The script and the actors are the great combination that make each stage play fascinating. I’m not so familiar with all the stage production techniques. For me, the script and the actors must be a great match.

I followed it up with a debate show on Channel 9, which was a hit; and all these entertainment jobs started coming to me.

My first commercial stage play, Chan Phu Chai Na Ya, was so successful, 30 years ago. People fought to buy tickets! But other plays were waiting to show at the theater, so we finally had to step down after playing more than 200 shows over six months. 

It’s really annoying to see how producers cast actors these days. They only pick people who are hot at that moment instead of choosing them properly for the role. You’ve got plays where the actresses playing the mother and the daughter are only five years apart.

Entertainment these days must have ghosts, ladyboys and comedians. You can’t be serious about serious things if you want to entertain people. That’s why I put all these characters into my new show, Phu Chai Na Ya, Episode: Hua Jai Mai Pen AIDS. It’s the combination of the stage plays Phu Chai Na Ya, which I directed and Hua Jai Mai Pen AIDS which I acted in when AIDS was really new for Thais. 

People used to think AIDS was the disease that God had sent to kill homosexuals. They thought gays were eccentric and deserved to die. But, it was long time ago. Now, as we all know, AIDS can kill anyone. 

Control your lust. All sexually-related problems such as AIDS or abortion are from the fact that you can’t control your lust. 

I was barred from TV because I was gay. There had been this outcry from old-fashioned people who were against the idea of bringing homosexuals on to TV. They wrote to the TV stations that we were like germs that can spread disease to children, making them be like us. The TV executives finally decided to bar me. 

It was the most depressing moment in my life. Why couldn’t these people look at my work instead of crucifying me because of my personality?

You must prove that you’re valuable, especially third gender people. After years of doing hard work as an academic, a marketer, an instructor and an entertainment person, I finally got accepted and had the chance to be on TV again.

I’m glad that homosexuals are now accepted by society. They work in every industry, from doctors to teachers.

I feel nothing about the push to have same-sex marriage law. I don’t feel anything lacking in my life as I have a job, money and a partner. I don’t want to sound selfish, though. I do support this law for those homosexuals who aren’t as lucky as I am. They face difficulties that require the law to protect them.

I feel awkward to show my love in front of everyone. I even feel bashful bringing my partner to sit among friends who are straight and talk about their children, and grandchildren, which we don’t have. I don’t know how to introduce him to them and my partner will feel awkward, too. So we just separate when we go out to party.

The social status for gays is always single, even though we have partners. Just see the invitation cards for wedding parties: it will have only one name written on the card. 

I gave up on politics. I recently stopped my involvement with the People’s Alliance for Democracy. People who I used to admire changed in the wrong way and did things I never imagined they would do.

I have no hope for this country. Representatives vote as they are ordered, not for the people’s benefit. It’s such a waste of our money to pay for electricity and water in the parliament for three days as they know which way they will vote since day one. No one can fight the power of money.

Being loved by my students is the most precious thing for me. And I’ve always loved being a teacher. Now, I’m an instructor at Chulalongkorn, Sripathum and the dean at Naresuan University. 

I never thought that one day I would be a dean, as I figured the university would be condemned for appointing a katoey to be their dean.  

Know yourself and be ambitious, but base it on reality. 

Amphawa has lost much of its tranquil appeal ever since it became a favorite destination for Bangkokians who swamp it every weekend to get some fresh air while shopping and eating at the bustling market. In the old days, Bangnoi Market was the busier of the two, as it was one of the major trade centers in Samut Songkram. But as roads grew more important than canals, Bangnoi faded into obscurity. Today, that’s exactly what makes it such an appealing destination.

Eat and Shop

Though Amphawa still reigns supreme as a food destination for its vast range of choice, Bangnoi does have a few yummy treats of its own. Start with Roti Tae Jiew (open Sat-Sun 9am-4pm), a Chinese take on roti stuffed with brown sugar and sesame. “It’s called ‘lau guay’ in Chinese but that’s hard to pronounce in Thai so we’ve decided to just call it Roti Tae Jiew,” says Nee, as she flips the crepe on her hot pan. “It’s our family’s special recipe. We’d always make it when celebrating the Chinese festivals.” Nee insists that the roti has to be eaten while it’s still warm and followed by Chinese tea to wash down the sweetness.

The next delicacy you must sample is at Khao Pad Pla Tu Boran Mae Phu (open Sat-Sun 11:30am-2pm, 081-308-7378), which combines two of Samut Songkram’s most famous products: namprik kapi Klong Khone (fermented shrimp paste) and mackerel. Half the charm is the presentation, as Mae Phu serves her famous dish in a banana leaf cup decorated with local flowers such as the deep blue un chan. Get there early as they run out fast. 

No market trip is complete without some noodles. Guay Tiew Tom Yam Jae Sa-nguan (open Tue-Fri 9am-2pm, Sat-Sun 9am-5pm) serves a local tom yam recipe topped with small pieces of dried shrimps—delicious. Still hungry? Gung Mae Nam Yang (open Sat-Sun noon-5pm, 034-738-265) grills giant freshwater prawns plucked straight from the river. Be warned that they run out fast too. Along the way, you’ll also see many ladies selling fresh greens from their gardens—so, stock up!

After you’re nice and full, take a small walk across the wooden bridge to the other side of Klong Bangnoi to Rakna Bangnoi (69 Moo 6, Bangkhontee, 081-931-6505), a shop selling vintage cupboards in bright colors. One whole wall of the shop is decorated with vintage steel trays in various styles, a rather stunning sight. “I just had this crush on the motifs these trays are painted with,” says Kob, the cheerful owner. “I thought there were only a few types of motifs at first, but after I started collecting them, I found out there were many, many different types, some of which are very delicate.” The trays, unfortunately, are not for sale “unless you buy the whole set.”

See

If you cross the Mae Klong River, there are a few places of note. Start with Wat Bang Kung, which was listed as one of the Unseen Thailand spots for its giant bodhi tree and 100-year-old ubosot (Buddhist chapel). Another site is the Church of the Virgin Mary or Atsana Wihan Maephra Bangkoet that is three kilometers further down stream. This 113-year-old church was built by Catholic missionaries and all the stained glass was imported from France. It is considered one of the most beautiful gothic churches in Thailand.

Stay

If you want to live the really slow life, Bangnoi offers many small, cute homestays. Our first choice would be Sai Nam Rue Ja Kan Homestay and Gallery (85 Moo 8, Bangkhontee, 081-336-7469) which has two non-air-con rooms at B800 per night. Befitting its name, this place is dotted with pictures and postcards portraying the river life around Bangnoi. At the corner further down the road, Bangnoi Koy Rak (83 Moo 8, Bangkhontee, 086-789-7833) has two air-con rooms with the great views of the Mae Klong River and balconies to take it all in. The first floor also serves as a little boutique with books, clothes and curios. Room rates start from B800-1,000. Come Nite Non Ni is a new homestay with three rooms which one of it can house four guests. Room rates start from B800-1,600. Finally, another brand new place is Ram Ruay Homestay (76/1, 034-761-768, 084-673-3768). The western-vintage style rooms are cute, if a little bit out of place here. Rates are B1,200 for two people and B1,800 for 3-4 people.

Getting There

Take Rama 2 Road until Km. 63. Then take the flyover to Samut Songkram. Take the same turn to Amphawa and continue for five kilometers.

As for public transportation, the easiest way to go is to catch a van at Victory Monument (Century Mall) to Amphawa where you can jump on a connecting local bus to Bang Noi.